Surprised you don't use nitrile gloves ?! I don't get my hands dirty for anyone 🤠 Personally I don't use more that 400 grit paper in cylinder and 1000 grit on the pistons
Second time using this very video to fix a caliper. Not only how to do it, but explaining the common failure points as well. And the little tips and tricks to boot! Absolutely bloody brilliant!
You're an absolute fecking legend. Great video! I could have done with seeing this video last year when my rear driver's side calliper seized up. I ended up getting a used one from Traynors. I also twisted the brake pipe too and got a new one. Your video has fully educated me and will hopefully save me from faffing about next time. Thanks ☺️
Massive help!! Ended up replacing my calipers but still used tips in the video. Better than most of youtube's VAG rear brake vids if you only watch the first 5 minutes lol.. sub'ed.
Great invention! Back when I was an apprentice we had a box full of thin stainless rings with a shallow grove machined into them for the boot. But we had access to an array of different sized tube and a couple lathes. Now I no longer have access to all that im gonna go with your idea. 👍
Very helpful Worth noting that most sellers of calipers advertise them as NEW when if fact they are refurbished. I always bought refurbished .Now i buy the repair kit Thank you
Note from an amateur. I heat the bleed nipple with hot air gun then spray freeze spray onto the nipple. Use deep 6 sided socket to undo. Works for me. Maybe some PTFE tape around threads and save grief later.
Thanks so much for this video. Saved me money and a world of hurt. The tip about burning off the plastic was a godsend. Thanks for your trouble in posting this video
Great video Dave , love the special tool , these can be a pain to wind back in normally , I usually whip the rear disc off , remount the caliper without the pads and full access with wind back tool , easy peasey, might make a couple of the boot sliders, saw something once online about the lovely spring clip on driveshafts that's a pain in the bum to keep in place while putting the cv joint back on , made snap rings out of key rings circles ,when desperate, but this guy on the video used a jubilee clip around the snap ring to keep tight while tapping joint back on , then undo jubilee clip and repack with grease !
i knew you'd like the special tool mike, yeah i remount the caliper also but if she aint free she no good. Aye same sort of idea there with the jubillee clip i guess, take care, dave
@@davesterl nice to see someone else repairing instead of just fitting new or refurbed parts. made a sleeve yesterday and used today worked like a dream. thank you
You can reassemble the piston and boot without a sleeve by pulling the inner dia of the boot over the bottom of the piston, then put the OD in the housing as shown here and push the piston in , Is a bit fiddlier as sometimes the boot slips off the piston , but it can be done . ( at the factory they put the boot in the housing 1st and then push the piston in through the boot and the seal at the same time. It can be done that way by hand as well but there is a risk of catching the ID of the boot between piston and bore and taking a bite out of the boot.)
Instead of using that metal sleeve to get the boot and piston back in all you have to do is put the piston in just so it’s started, then you put the boot in the groove with the piston hanging off. With a bit of calliper grease you just wind it back in with the boot in place.
Interesting, I couldn't work out why my piston could extend and not retract, it may well be this. I will try and pop the piston out and clean it up to see if this works. Interesting that it could be the boot causing issues. Bought a retract tool but almost bent the thing trying to move the piston.
26:50 My piston does not go further but stays rotating at this level, too high. (Similarly as here at 27:02 in the correct level.) Does it have to do with the hand brake adjustment? The pads were really worn out, metal to metal.
Some VW Group calipers don't have the "wee steel pipe" for the brake fluid. The flexible hose connects directly into the caliper with a banjo fitting. This makes the job even easier.
@davesterl the removal and replacement of the metal pipe is one of the trickier parts of the job- e.g.. when the pvc coating has flared. It might put some off attempting this as a first-timer. Knowing that they may not need to do it will encourage some people to go ahead....
Hi Dave. I love the simplicity of the rolled metal. Would this be required on The Laguna Callipers too? Thanks for the videos. Great help to us all. Gareth, Magheralin.
dave sterl when you put the piston in it normal position on top of the boot and blow air in the brake hose port conection then boot open up and you push the piston in it cyl whit no air
Hi Dave Great video as always... couple of quick questions. Is that red grease silicon based? Is it safe to use on the sliders as well? Is it called red assembly grease as there appears to be quite a few types out there on google search.
Mine were seized solid. You need to get the caliper apart further and clean out grime in the inner mechanism. Needs more skill and a pair of extra long reach long nose pliers.
Dave have you ever come across one of these that won't auto adjust? Have one in Astra H, not seized, but when you pump up the brakes it doesn't auto adjust, when release brake just retracts all the way, if you repeatedly pull the handbrake the piston doesn't keep coming out it just pulses in and out in same at the same position spot. Other side if you repeatedly pull handbrake it will push the piston out further and further. Tried winding it in and out
So, at 12.16 you think that an old flexible rubber boot will cause the piston to seize with a nominal brake line pressure of 30 to 40 Bar ? That's 588 PSI !!! I dont think so.
You think whatever you want. The boot prevents the piston from being wound back in, nothing to do with brake line pressure. Perhaps you should watch the video again before you comment
You are welcome 👍 I have just discovered your videos , I have been out of mechanics game for forty years & have lost touch how things are done now so I have really enjoying them .
Find the items that are used on the Dave Sterl channel in the Amazon shop.
www.amazon.co.uk/shop/davesterl
Surprised you don't use nitrile gloves ?!
I don't get my hands dirty for anyone 🤠
Personally I don't use more that 400 grit paper in cylinder and 1000 grit on the pistons
Second time using this very video to fix a caliper. Not only how to do it, but explaining the common failure points as well. And the little tips and tricks to boot! Absolutely bloody brilliant!
You're an absolute fecking legend. Great video! I could have done with seeing this video last year when my rear driver's side calliper seized up. I ended up getting a used one from Traynors. I also twisted the brake pipe too and got a new one. Your video has fully educated me and will hopefully save me from faffing about next time. Thanks ☺️
It's a pleasure to watch you work as you said in the real world thank you it helped me a lot I thought they pushed back obviously it screws back
done a few in my time Dave. Great to see you looking after the customer in this throw away society
oh aye ian, but if youve a car in for brake pads and you aint got a replacement caliper
Massive help!! Ended up replacing my calipers but still used tips in the video. Better than most of youtube's VAG rear brake vids if you only watch the first 5 minutes lol.. sub'ed.
Great invention! Back when I was an apprentice we had a box full of thin stainless rings with a shallow grove machined into them for the boot. But we had access to an array of different sized tube and a couple lathes. Now I no longer have access to all that im gonna go with your idea. 👍
Very helpful Worth noting that most sellers of calipers advertise them as NEW when if fact they are refurbished. I always bought refurbished .Now i buy the repair kit Thank you
Depends who your sellers are. My factors' suppliers are clearly marked remanufactured
Great video dave thankyou for taking the time to post it. Sorted my daughters mk4 golf calipers out ready for m.o.t.
All the best Matt. 😊👍
Great practical video. I used to do this in the 70s but have never had a bad calliper since.
Hose clamp
Hi, thanks this really helped un-seize one of my calipers, I made my special tool out of 38mm white plastic domestic waste pipe, worked a treat.
Note from an amateur. I heat the bleed nipple with hot air gun then spray freeze spray onto the nipple. Use deep 6 sided socket to undo. Works for me. Maybe some PTFE tape around threads and save grief later.
make sure to change your brake fluid every two years to prevent seizing. I've seen it happen on 3 different VWs which were neglected that way.
It is one of the best explained videos I have ever seen . thank you.
Thanks so much for this video. Saved me money and a world of hurt. The tip about burning off the plastic was a godsend. Thanks for your trouble in posting this video
You're welcome
Great video Dave , love the special tool , these can be a pain to wind back in normally , I usually whip the rear disc off , remount the caliper without the pads and full access with wind back tool , easy peasey, might make a couple of the boot sliders, saw something once online about the lovely spring clip on driveshafts that's a pain in the bum to keep in place while putting the cv joint back on , made snap rings out of key rings circles ,when desperate, but this guy on the video used a jubilee clip around the snap ring to keep tight while tapping joint back on , then undo jubilee clip and repack with grease !
i knew you'd like the special tool mike, yeah i remount the caliper also but if she aint free she no good. Aye same sort of idea there with the jubillee clip i guess, take care, dave
Cable tie keeps the wire clip compressed too. Quicker than winding a hose clip.
@@garybrown5500 true as long as not tight ring to compress and jubilee clip can be reused
Hi Great Video Thank you. I turn seal inside out slide onto piston locate seal in caliper and push in piston very simple and no tool needed Cheers
Mines really tight to wind in, so I know mine needs this treatment! Thanks for a great vid exposing what to do..
Thanks Dave, it's best video I've seen so far.
Nice demonstration on what can be done to a caliper without the need to replace them.
Also l like the melting the pipe and the tool that you made
cheers matt, im sure youve come across this many times on the Vw's
Best video I’ve seen on this job
Awesome vid, I'm a new super subscriber from Jamaica. I'm learning alot here I have a VW CC so thanks for sharing.
Corrosion on the AL casting lifts the seal and binds the piston...Interesting. Clever wee tool. Cheers Pal
cheers Ian
Brilliant, good few wee tips there , especially the melting of the plastic on the brake pipes , cheers Dave 👍
No problem 👍
great idea with the sleeve always struggle with a blunt pick. first job in the morning make a couple of sleeves thank you
Used to be the exact same Simon, until i invented the 'special' tool
@@davesterl nice to see someone else repairing instead of just fitting new or refurbed parts. made a sleeve yesterday and used today worked like a dream. thank you
That piston dust boot method: MIND, BLOWN.
" ats us nie" Could have done with that little tool when i did my fronts, brilliant idea, thanks Dave.
Oh aye Colin, here, give us a few phrases i could use like suckin diesel etc
@@davesterl "thon wee dust seal was banjaxed"
You can reassemble the piston and boot without a sleeve by pulling the inner dia of the boot over the bottom of the piston, then put the OD in the housing as shown here and push the piston in , Is a bit fiddlier as sometimes the boot slips off the piston , but it can be done . ( at the factory they put the boot in the housing 1st and then push the piston in through the boot and the seal at the same time. It can be done that way by hand as well but there is a risk of catching the ID of the boot between piston and bore and taking a bite out of the boot.)
Well worth a like and a sub mate👍 thanks for that
Thankyou for your effort for sharing the knowledge Dave, I find yours and Matt videos the best to learn from 👍 Thanks again
Thats great to hear, cheers dave
Excellent explanation,thanks
Instead of using that metal sleeve to get the boot and piston back in all you have to do is put the piston in just so it’s started, then you put the boot in the groove with the piston hanging off. With a bit of calliper grease you just wind it back in with the boot in place.
Fantastic video, great information and I love the jig 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Absolutely FANTASTIC Video! Genius Tool!!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks! Very informative. Did not know about the reason for sticking piston. Very smart solution to help replacing the rubber gasket :-)
Thanks guy!! This is also a caliper rebuild video
Brilliant video I have this exact issue thanks for the info 😊
Great video, thank you.
Nice job 👍
Interesting, I couldn't work out why my piston could extend and not retract, it may well be this. I will try and pop the piston out and clean it up to see if this works. Interesting that it could be the boot causing issues.
Bought a retract tool but almost bent the thing trying to move the piston.
26:50 My piston does not go further but stays rotating at this level, too high. (Similarly as here at 27:02 in the correct level.) Does it have to do with the hand brake adjustment? The pads were really worn out, metal to metal.
Did you ever find a solution? Going through it rite now
I just checked the rear wheels on my audi A3. It seems the right piston is seazed as the brake pads seems more worn than the left rear wheel.
top job dave . did 5 set of motorbike calipers last week seme deal all stuck on the dust seals . i find autosol good for getting some pistons back
aye Simon, i think people think its the block seal or piston itself that is the cause, it aint
@@davesterl people are generally scared to even take the calipers apart
yeah, i think most would just replace, but thats too easy
Did this today, piston wound back in nice and easy but it's still sticking after being refitted. What else could it be?
Thanks a lot for the video..
Good video.
I think the red rubber grease is vegetable oil based, not silicone; silicone grease is usually colourless, almost clear.
Yes, both are fine for this application
Excellent video, thank you sir!
You dont put brake oil inside before you put back the piston? And isnt it bad to put silicon inside the cylinder?
Some VW Group calipers don't have the "wee steel pipe" for the brake fluid. The flexible hose connects directly into the caliper with a banjo fitting. This makes the job even easier.
Not really the point of this video
@davesterl the removal and replacement of the metal pipe is one of the trickier parts of the job- e.g.. when the pvc coating has flared. It might put some off attempting this as a first-timer. Knowing that they may not need to do it will encourage some people to go ahead....
@@henryjohntobin1 are you a mechanic?
@davesterl no, is that a requirement to comment?
@@henryjohntobin1 to comment with authority on a subject as you are would require to have some expertise
Good stuff Dave, patent pending on the seal installer version 1.0 😃
go halfers with ye on the patent, you do the US one, eeeeyyyyyoooo
Very Good Video,and Super info...CHEERS....
Very good workshop
Thank you .
Hi Dave.
I love the simplicity of the rolled metal. Would this be required on The Laguna Callipers too?
Thanks for the videos. Great help to us all.
Gareth, Magheralin.
neat trick with that metal sleeve, save you finger from geting hurt when you apply air in to put piston back
not sure why you need air to put the piston in but thanks anyways
dave sterl when you put the piston in it normal position on top of the boot and blow air in the brake hose port conection then boot open up and you push the piston in it cyl whit no air
@@danman9017 ok cheers
haHA! Victory. I will go ahead and delete the remanufactured calipers from my ebay watch list and order the rebuild kit!!!
What a great informative video thankyou
Glad it was helpful!
Great tip on the pvc covering
Thanks 👍
Please can you link to these seals
awesome vid thanks a lot keep up good work
Excellent mate
merci d'avance pour t'es conseils ça m'a
Super video, thank you, I had started with the bleeder screw if it breaks, so ...
:)
good tip on the bleeder screw there Carsten, tho i have methods of dealing with that also. I keep replacement bleeders as well as the boot kits
@@davesterl aye put a nice wee drill inside the nipple then grip and work it loose. The drill stops it compressing
@@game4alaughman great tip mate
Hi Dave Great video as always... couple of quick questions. Is that red grease silicon based? Is it safe to use on the sliders as well? Is it called red assembly grease as there appears to be quite a few types out there on google search.
Yeah silicon grease, 21.15, you may find different names out there, basically the same stuff(rubber grease, assembly grease)
using a flame next to brake fluid ???
great to hear some one say DEAD ON on you tube someone tacking norIreland speak good crack cheers jim
No bather big man
Have you come across the handbrake lever mechanism seizing? If so have you been able to repair it? Regards Charles
Mine were seized solid. You need to get the caliper apart further and clean out grime in the inner mechanism. Needs more skill and a pair of extra long reach long nose pliers.
Dave have you ever come across one of these that won't auto adjust? Have one in Astra H, not seized, but when you pump up the brakes it doesn't auto adjust, when release brake just retracts all the way, if you repeatedly pull the handbrake the piston doesn't keep coming out it just pulses in and out in same at the same position spot. Other side if you repeatedly pull handbrake it will push the piston out further and further. Tried winding it in and out
Yes, I've had that on older vw's where the handbrake wouldn't hold the piston. Easiest just to replace
@@davesterl cheers will do 👍
excellent vid. thanks.
Where can I buy those hose stoppers? Where is the link mate?
This is the difference between being a mechanic and a fitter.
So, at 12.16 you think that an old flexible rubber boot will cause the piston to seize with a nominal brake line pressure of 30 to 40 Bar ?
That's 588 PSI !!! I dont think so.
You think whatever you want. The boot prevents the piston from being wound back in, nothing to do with brake line pressure. Perhaps you should watch the video again before you comment
Brilliant
Dave do you have a garage near Belfast? In Newtownabbey myself and have this exact problem on a 2014 GTD.
Aye, im in carrick. You can email me if u like
@@davesterl can’t find your email anywhere Dave.
Very informative video 👍
nice
Good video 👍
Thanks 👍
You are welcome 👍 I have just discovered your videos , I have been out of mechanics game for forty years & have lost touch how things are done now so I have really enjoying them .
aye Peter, motors are getting more complex and rubbish. Glad you enjoy the vids, cheers dave
so thats why my rear right brake is hotter than normal even after i bled it =))
wait!? Your brake line is PVC?!!
pvc coated copper..
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