How To Diagnose and Replace a Bad Brake Caliper -EricTheCarGuy
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- Опубликовано: 31 янв 2013
- Visit me at: www.ericthecarguy.com/
Brakes are a common DIY project but I often get asked about brake calipers and how to check if they're bad. This video not only shows how to find a bad brake caliper but also how to replace it. It is recommended that you do both sides when you find a faulty brake caliper but it's not necessary. If you're on a budget you can just do one but you might experience a pull to one side when braking if you do this. Otherwise you can follow the steps in this video for caliper replacement. I use my 1997 Subaru Legacy L in this video but the principals and techniques apply to many vehicles both domestic and imported.
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Stay dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy. 
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You're amazing and I watch all your videos before I do anything on my car. I'm a 35 year old black female that loves to work on my car. I say that cuz it's rare. Everyone is surprised when I tell them I've changed my transmission on my 1999 Nissan Sentra manaul transmission and I did it by watching videos and using the repair manual. I have never gone wrong watching your videos.......THANK YOU!
+Tish Guinn sounds like me :) but im 21 always worked on my own car.. Thanks to my grandpa ( R.I.P)
Same here, ladies! Black female who loves her car. I'm just now learning how to fix things on my Camaro on my own and it's so satisfying to be able to do stuff on my own. It's great to see that other women are doing their own repairs too!
It feels amazing to finish work on our cars and say I did it.
+PARAdise Love you want to be my girlfriend bae please
camaro? you have a fantastic taste in cars. what year? i have a 1996 LT1 and love it. great cars. if you have a 4th gen and you work on it yourself, that's a fairly challenging car to work on.
Unlike other mechanic tutorial, sir erick here is an actual work guy. And i like the honest intension to really teach the newbies like me, even his struggles is uncut
And sometimes i feel like i want to give a hand to hold or to tighten a volt. Glad to say that i can do my brakes and my clutch watching his videos as my guide. Thank you sir erick, youre awesome co"ol
Two weeks ago I started to get noise from my rear left break, it was 74 out and unseasonably warm. But I did not pay enough attention to it because I had a brother in the hospital up in New Jersey, (109 mi each way) I went to a good reliable local repair shop. He said he could not get me in until Nov 28th. So I decided to do it myself, already ordered the Raybestos rotors and pads. Started to learn about rebuilding the caliper but decided to go and spend the money on a rebuilt. Of course it's 28' now and I think I'll sit back and watch the Eagles beat up on the Colts today and work tomorrow when it's going up to 46'. Thanks for the tips on reinstalling and bleeding. Wish I had my old 55' Chevy back. 77 and still learning new tricks!
I miss this etcg, can't help but to watch the old videos.
Eric, I know more than likely you won't see this but you seriously gave me the encouragement to become an ASE Master tech that I am today.
Thats awesome. Great comment
Eric, congratulations, you have a talent explaining things. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Eric, I’ve learned so much from watching your videos. Money is sometimes tight and to be able to do the work myself has helped immensely. You’re a good guy!
I have watched 100s of your videos and I can say this is the best one you have ever made. The amount of instruction and info you put into this is appreciated.
I am now an old Lecturer and since young I was always disgusted at the manner in which many teachers at schools differentiate between those children with a Kinematic intelligence and technical flare with the others who prefer vociferous and social and artistic professions as it is said that their language communications is richer, I always argued that a technical man has also great language abilities. I just came across this video and this Eric the Car Guy confirmed my belief, HIs Knowledge Transfer technique and his descriptions are Brilliant, Congratulations, It is a pity that many teachers in our schools are not ready to see a car from this angle to see the beauty of the logic and the hidden art that makes our life safer but unfortunately isnot appreciated by so many, Well done.Sir. You make an excellent lecturer at any University.
Written like an old Lecturer. It took a full paragraph to say “Nice vid! Well explained with excellent camera angle”:
HAHAHA, exactly. Almost as if the "Old Lecturer's were paid by the word.....
I fell asleep after the first line. Must have been a liberal arts professor.
Must have skipped English class and just read a dictionary... That paragraph is 2 sentences 😅
If YT gave awards for the best instructional videos, you would win every time. Thanks for this!
Thanks so much Eric. I never thought in a million years that I could complete replacing both front calipers, rotors and pads with such ease...YOU are amazing!!! Thank you!!
I watched this video, diagnosed the calipers on my '06 Civic EX were the cause of my warped rotors. The pistons wouldn't budge on both. I ordered ceramic pads & slotted rotors from Amazon & found calipers at Autozone. Total cost was $140. It took me less than two hours & I used the stock steel washers, placed hose sections on a vice grip for the brake lines & let gravity bleed out the air in the lines when done.
Thanks for the perfect tutorial video. The car stops like new & it was less than half the price any garage would charge.
Eric your a star! Thank you so much for taking the time to film this. You've answered all my questions on caliper replacement. Spot on, thanks again!!
Thank you for this video, Eric! We had changed pads and rotors plenty of times, but had never tackled a caliper. With your video, we were able to do it without a problem. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge!
Thanks for sharing the DIY. Your tip on pinching the brake line was THUMBS UP! Saved me half the time to do my Jeep fronts w/o bleeding from the right rear...alone. Right on! Subscribed!
What does pinching the brake lines mean? Am watching it now
@@stephaniehunter3251 , see 3:10 in the video.
Thanks Eric for posting this video! Because of your video, I did my whole front brake system on my 1999 Infiniti I30, pads, rotor & calipers in about 2 hours! I especially appreciate the tips on bleeding the system. I've never done it this way, always using the 2 people system, but this worked great. Seems very logical when you think it over. Thanks again!
My favourite brake diagnostic method: IR thermometer. You don't even have to remove wheel to see fault. Found out I have seized guide pins not a squeaky bearing because three discs were about 40C, but one was at 150C. Had to change calipers and discs and pads on both sides. Did me brakes myself and every now and then check temps if they are equal on all four. Month later found out I need to bleed one caliper, because temperature was 10C not 34C as others with ambient temp at 5C or so. Handy thing, but find one with narrow beam and extended range - well in 300C temperatures - brakes are hot. Helps for heat treating too.
Nice tip, thanks!
(For now I can simply use my nose as I smell burned rubber from the heated wheel cap from the heated brake... heh.. yeah it's hot! Brakes dragging. About to change that, hopefully by myself).
Again, I think you do a good job on all your videos. Yes, your right when your pointing out the fairly important details of what could be seen as lazy, or something else. I just chalk it up to working smarter. Yes, details matter but this is a brake job, not a military exercise, and even then military men often take shortcuts to make life easier. So, no need to be hard on yourself, youtubers will do that for you! Another great video Eric, very informative, even for the experienced.
I find your videos to be easily understandable and helpful.I am a 29+ year young female working in the back yard with little budget and basic tool access. You are awesome, informative. and clean spoken. Thank you
one of the best videos I've ever seen on RUclips. You, Sir, are a teacher. Very articulate and knowledgeable. Going to do this with Son-in-law caliper.
Thanks alot, I was intimidated at first about doing a complete brake job on my 2003 S-10 but with your video every thing is very clear. Your video is very straight forward and your sense of humor is great. Thanks man! I like the soda bottle idea and the vice grip with tubing idea. Great tips!
your videos are educational man. I appreciate it. I'm taking automotive tech/mech classes at my local tech school and I use your videos all the time.
To compress the piston I put a small wood board over the piston and use a 4" or 6" C-clamp. That way I don't risk galling the piston perimeter with the vise grip jaws. You can also use an old brake pad instead of the board.
like you, that is exactly how i do it.
And then after you compress it take the clamp off and turn vehicle on and press brake pedal and see if it moves. Check for any abnormalities. If OK press piston back and reassemble?
Thanks Eric, I just changed my brake caliper, driver side rear, and your tips on how to do it showed me how to do it perfectly the first time.. Thanks again..
Newbie... I actually rolled my eyes at how long the video was, but you was really entertaining in your approach, really enjoyed this Eric. Well done. 👏it flew by.
Just an average doit yourselfer here, but I have to say, this video is most helpful. I have done an honest 20 front brake jobs in my life. That is enough to where I feel confident. 1, I never knew about burping the boot on the slider. 2. I May have changed a caliper one time when I might have just needed to lube that boldt. This a nice tip for the future. Now there is nothing wrong with changing callipers before their time, but this tip may have saved me money. Thanks Eric.
May God bless you for your sharing of this sacred knowledge Eric. You saved my life!
This is the most detailed “Brake Caliper RnR Tutorial” I’ve seen.
Thanks Eric! I just completed new rear rotor, caliper and brake hose replacement on my 2006 Ford Fusion. Your videos were a huge help!!!
I'm learning English and I understood everything just want to say that thank you very much. I learned a lot. Thank you!
Hi Luis.
After 50 yrs of working in heavy duty truck shops, and 4 surgeries for carpal tunnel.....I found that hitting a wrench with a dead blow hammer is much better!. Great video, and very well explained. I've even learn something from you every now and then. So, you see......you can teach an old dog new tricks!
This is the best video that I have ever seen as far as 'changing your brake pads and caliper'. Very very well done. I followed this to a T and it was the same procedure necessary for a 2005 hyundai elantra! Thanks so much Eric!!!!!!!!!!
Eric, you have the best automotive repair instruction videos on youtube. You're always thorough and you explain what you are doing and why in a very clear yet precise way. I can't stress how helpful your videos have been. I have learned a ton and saved a lot of money. Thank you very much!!
I have discovered recently that not all parts stores include same items. My discovery happened when I called to buy the caliper. I had some nasty slides, one frozen. I decided to replace those. 2 places priced me the caliper, then the bracket with new slides. The 3rd place was slightly higher in price for the caliper, when I asked about the bracket and slides, I was informed that was included with the caliper. It actually made me saving $20 overall. So, moral of the story, ask if they are included. I prefer changing them with a caliper change.
You're the Man Eric. Saving me money everytime I need some basic work on my ride.
When replacing calipers I like use a brake pedal depressor you probably know this but you will not get eny fluid coming out of your hoses just a tip to try love the vid
Absolutely fantastic tutorials and videos, Eric! Straight forward, high level of competence and no fuzz!! Great stuff right here! THANKS!!!!!
Dooood.. LOVE your videos, you always stay on point, you don't blab useless information like so many others. You're realistic, informative and detailed, love it. Vids and audio are awesome quality, really helps to see the details! Keep it up, mad respect!
That bleeder bottle is awesome, no need for a second person. I didn't know that. I also was never taught about the anti "seez" on the ends of the pads. Cool!
anti-seize
@@moisesramirez5454 never seize. I put that shit on everything. I like using the copper version for its heat tolerance.
Great instructions. Gave me confidence to do my stuck caliper.
Another excellent video Eric. The use of silicone paste on the caliper pins is exactly what I learned at Universal Technical Institute in Arizona 21 years ago. I use 3M Silicone Paste and have never varied from this. Never use "grease" on these pins you will be asking for trouble.
You're a good dude Eric..Thanks for all of the great comprehensive videos..I've learned lots from them ! God bless you and your family brother!
Thanks damn helpful video for a Mercedes owner, too expensive for a mechanic to do simple things like changing brakes I do it myself thanks for the videos keep em uploading :)
You are awesome my friend
Thank you for sharing the good stuff
Wishing you all the best
It ended up that this video helped me when it came time to deal with the "banjo" connection and bleeding the lines. I can see that it takes time and effort to produce your videos. Thank you.
Just did complete caliper, rotor, pad replacement for my wife's 2010 Toyota Avalon. This video was a great resource. One thing to add that was not covered here is the position of the slider bolts. Apparently, the top and bottom (leading or trailing) bolts are not interchangeable on most cars. I found this out when the passenger side was dragging continuously after the reassembly. I had to bring it to a local mechanic who diagnosed it immediately as reversed position of the slider bolts. This caused the caliper to twist and even pinched the brake hose. I checked the lube of the pins but had no way of knowing that there was a top and bottom difference. They came pre-assembled as remanufactured. Lesson: check your manual or OEM parts diagram against the part supplied before install.
Eric, at 11:48 you refer to the banjo bolt [BB] washers, sharing that you prefer steel ones to the copper ones.
Permit me to suggest that copper washers are preferred for use here given copper's malleability, in that it is a relatively soft metal. When torqued properly, copper washers will compress and be malformed in a way that conforms to the specific imperfections/grooves on the BB's mating surfaces - thereby providing a proper seal that can withstand the pressures of the brake system while effectively mitigating the likelihood of mating surface imperfections that could otherwise facilitate leaks.
It is highly unlikely that steel washers compress at all via proper torqueing. If so, this would mean that the non-conforming hard steel washers would tighten to the highest points on BB mating surfaces . . . not filling in and conforming to the gaps as was the case with copper.
it is also worth noting that these copper washers can [and probably should] be annealed before using them. Annealing copper washers 'relaxes' the metal's structure, effectively 'softening' it for use in applications like this.
Hmm interesting!
Flea02Cruiser, you are correct. Copper washers’ malleability is indispensable to avoid leakage.
Yes, you're right
why 128 dislike? this is pretty much a clear and educational vid, keep it up
冀伟浩 anyone who thumbs down a professional engineer is an imbicile.
It's the street term for the jealous known as "haters". RUclips is full of them.
rkgsd also the haters are anyone who owns an auto repair shop including Midas, and meineke. Those of us that understand the basics of physics, and can understand mechanics and given the correct procedure (like this) could do a brake job themselves and save hundreds
Because they racist
Stop worrying about a few boos and appreciate the applause.
Still the best videos on RUclips after a decade. Hope you are well Eric!
Thanks for all the Knowledge Eric. I’m doing this same job, along with the wheel speed sensors. I appreciate it👍
I had my car pulling to the right, and uneven pad and rotor wear. I'm assuming it was the caliper? I just picked up a new one. Going to put it on tomorrow. Thanks for the video. It was helpful. I thought I had to bleed the entire system.
Right side is likely siezed closed. I had the same problem. Id mash the brakes and only my front passenger side tire would lock up and slide lol
Best guy doing it great job P.S CAN I USE SOME GREASE lol
Good call on pointing out the difference between the parts and fasteners included with reman calipers. Sometimes the parts that they throw in with reman calipers are very different. I've had them send brake shims that required a fair bit of reshaping just to allow the caliper to drop down over the pads, and they still dragged along the outer diameter of the new rotor. And definitely lots of weird bolt sizes. Asymmetry in fastener sizes makes things more trouble than they need to be.
Hi Eric, I have been turning wrenches a long time but love to 'review', on your site. Always helpful and honest. Having spent a great deal of time working outside I wish some heat for you in the shop. Thanks again
7:24 “turn it the right way, Eric” 😂😂😂
Hi eric
I love ur videos and the way i explain everything, however. I want to ask you, while shooting the video, do you have any customers jump in and ruin ur shoots :)?
If yes, post some of these videos as an extra behind the scene thing.
Your videos are far better for explanations than most I have endured.
I found your videos in jail on the jail issued tablets! and I have relied on u ever since for all my mechanical needs ❤
wish I had watched this before changing my grandsons calipers on the Jeep Grand Cherokee this weekend - now I know.
Well that's one question he would have got wrong on the ASE brake test. You never ever pinch off a brake hose with vise grips (as it may result in an internal collapse of the hose). By the way that brake hose was bad! If it were unrestricted the brake fluid would pour out at a much higher rate. Just a heads up to you all.. when a brake hose becomes restricted the caliper does not move in and out as usual and eventually seizes up.
He explained all this in the video and you can see the fuel hoses he put on the needle nose vise grips to prevent damage to the brake hose. I'm sorry if you're death or blind.
Why be a dick with the "death and blind" bullshit? The reason you don't pinch the hose is because there is a liner inside the hose that can be permanently distorted when pinched. The hose cover can also crack. The rubber hose pieces on the vise grips won't definitely prevent that from happening.
You're both idiots, it's deaf not death!
I watched your video, was very pleasantly surprised by the high quality and your professionalism, and then did the full job on my 2004 Toyota Sienna. Really, I don't know how anyone can complain about what you have done! I love your "straight to it and yet tip filled video! You helped me several times with those tips. But can watchers help you fill out a few things? I hope so. I got a kit with the dreaded copper washers and they leaked like crazy, just as you warned. But, I took it apart, and sanded and wire brushed the brake hose fitting, and more importantly, filed the surface of the caliper right at the base of the banjo hole. That is what fixed the leak. The rebuilt calibers had rough and uneven surfaces where the washers seal and that was the problem. Eventually, copper washers seem to seal the leak if allowed enough time.
Dave S.
I didn’t know why they were called Banjo bolts. Thanks. I appreciate your attention to the details. As someone who has much to learn, I find it all really helpful!
Oh eric, the times you've saved my ass... just tought you should know...
Just pulled in front of the garage, and I could smell something burning. Well check around the truck and it was coming from back left wheel. It was also so hot it was like standing next to an over, also the heat coming from it was leaving a shadow on the rim. Called a few shops and they said my truck would cost $200-$300 for the change .. or I can buy the part from a family member for like $20 new and do it my self now thanks to this video .. or fail trying lol and be out $20
It's a sign! :)
Thank you Ericthecarguy. Just changed my caliper for the first time. Followed your instructions step by step.. It works great now! Thank you again!
you explain things really well. they're very informative. thank you so much for this video! it helped me understand a few things better.
did I hear you right in saying at time frame 9:50 "pump the brakes a bunch of time and then open the bleeder. If brake fluid comes out it might be a sign of a bad hose"? That is exactly how one goes about bleeding brakes if they don't have a hydraulic pressure supply for the master cylinder reservoir. I don't get how having brake fluid exiting the bleeder when it is opened is any sign of a bad brake hose. Can you explain?
Steven Telck Bit late but he said that after cracking the bleed screw the fluid "squirt" out, if the system is working right the fluid should have returned up the pipe and only leak or dribble out but he's pointing to the fact that the brake hose has broken up internally so not allowing the fluid to return and leaving the fluid in the caliper under pressure. Of course if the bleed screw is already open when applying the brakes then the fluid will then squirt out.
Bad hose may allow fluid to travel to caliper one way but may not allow brake fluid to travel back up the brake hose. You apply pressure to the caliper, open the bleeder & it squirts out bc the fluid did not travel back up the brake hose.
I wonder how many instances of bad hoses were contributed by the practice of pinching them off with the clamps. I can't see that being too good for them, particularly if they're a little on the geriatic side and no longer as flexible as they were back in their prime. But it seems to be a regular practice, even to the point where they sell tools specifically for that, so maybe it's not really a concern.
Personally, I'd rather not do it.
i agree , i would never do this to my car , im sure resetting tha caliper at a slow pace is sufficient, after all i never even bled the brakes on any car i ever owen until recently and put up to 260,000 miles on them all , never had a problem
If your hoses are that bad, you'd actually want to find out then. Or don't, and find out during an emergency stop that doesn't actually do any stopping.
Hey Eric, Does anyone sell over-sized caliper slider pins for those of us who have rebuilt floating calipers? The reason I ask is because it seems every rebuilt floating caliper on the market, ie Cardone, Beck Arnley, AC Delco, Wagner, Raybestos, etc., has worn slider pin holes that are unfortunately not resleeved when they clean and rebuild the caliper. Sure, the holes are filled with high temp brake grease from the factory, and they're fine for a month or two, but because the worn rebuilt caliper's pin hole's are worn much larger in diameter from the hardened slider pin and the brake grease disappearing, the calipers end up rattling on the pins when going down a mildly bumpy road with no foot on the brake. It makes my nice car feel like ass over the bumpy roads of RI. Every caliper I've ever owned loses it's brake grease after about 2 months, and yes, the grease seals are 100% fine. I've even used more expensive ceramic brake grease, and it still goes away! Does the silicone you use go away too? The other part of this deal is that I'm using ceramic pads which give a much longer service life. The only answer I see is oversized pins. Whadda ya think?
I know Cardone does re-bush caliper guide holes, what is your application that you're having trouble with?
As always very helpful and those extras are brilliant - usually only when you do the job do you learn the detail - but with Eric you learn the detail whilst having a beer
I have just replaced my front left caliper (and bleed the 2 front brakes) due to damage dust boot by following your very informative video with a lot of tips. It was easy. Thanks
Copper washers are made for sealing lines. They're softer so you can squish them on real good and fill in the cracks like a rubber gasket. I think it was a poor choice to use steel washers.
Erich Albert, I totally agree. I hope Eric will make note of this and mention it in his next similar videos.
Well, they are mild steel. Pretty soft actually.
I'm replacing rear brake caliper on a 2011 Subaru Forester. When I took off the old caliper it did not appear to have any washer on the banjo bolt. The new caliper did not come with a new banjo bolt or washer. Do some calipers not use them?
It actually did come with copper washer. I was mistaken. And the old washer which were steel were quite hard to see/get off the old caliper.
@@takuya7523 Steel rusts, copper doesn't.
how do you get rid of old oil/brake cleaner/brake fluid? do recycling centers take that shyte?
take it to an auto store (O'reileys auto zone etc.) they have a place to put it
Chase McDowell thanks
trippplefive we have a network of drains in every street in the UK especially designed for rain water and brake fluid disposal.
joseph jackson I do hope you are kidding. Here in USA there are places that take that stuff. Call me a tree hugger but I don't think it's fair that the fish have to pay for me being too lazy to find a place to dispose of brake fluid, oil and antifreeze. I know I wouldn't want someone pouring brake fluid all over my house!
Check with your local auto parts store. They should either have a disposal system like their oil container they would have in the back, or they should be able to direct to where you can get rid of it.
Hey man, thanks, I've been having some big braking problems and this helped confirm a diagnosis of a really badly seized front passenger side caliper piston on my Escape.
Thanks for the informative video, been a few years since doing my own brake job, new / old 124 spider needs a little love & this video helps.
Didn't know about the silicone lube. Thanks
Yeah, this the first video that mentions that fact. I will use silicone next time.
Michael Stewart If you didn't check it for silicon, you can just pull those two bolts on each caliper one at a time, put some on the bolt if it's dry, and put it back in. No need to remove the caliper. I wouldn't drive it like that for long without any as it could potentially seize up. Some manufacturers recommend lithium soap base glycol grease for their cars, such as Toyota, but if you aren't sure about your car go with the silicon. That other stuff can eat those rubber boots if it's the wrong type of rubber.
Thankyou. I will do just that.
lol
paul cannon It will not swell that rubber on the pinn and lock it up
I found the problem with the calipers on My 07 Honda Element was the (soon to be Ex-wife) likes to talk on the phone, tail gate, then slam on the brakes thus warping the rotors. Quick fix? Throw the damn cell out the window and no longer allow her to drive My cars. Please practice and enjoy!
Sounds like you have a good plan there. Lol.
That should be on the inside cover of every owner's manual.
U sound hurt.. Lol
Brake rotors warp because of run out in the rotor. Which after time builds up pad material on the high spot.
ruclips.net/video/HlkEAj5uPTA/видео.html please watch this and understand that he is wrong about the seal.
I love Eric the car guy! For years now! he's always my first choice in you tube auto vids
Great video Eric. One of the things I do when replacing rotors is to shore then place with the small set screws if provided for. If not I run two lug nuts to secure the rotor firmly in place then continue with the install. This prevents a lot of movement when installing the pads.
3 seconds in, hit like.
3, 5, 10, and 20 minutes in, tried to hit like again, but to my dismay, that button only works once...
My thoughts exactly.
Phillip Roberts Absolutely. This guy has saved me at least $600. We should all send him pizza and beer.
+Jacob Mix His tutorials and walkthroughs are so well-rounded that it's actually mind-boggling. The format of his videos(i.e., intro/preliminary discussion, theory, step by step practical, closing remarks, etc.) is so comprehensive that I have to wonder if he's got some formal training in essay writing, public speaking, or something to that effect. I have seen many people giving talks and conferences--for a living I might add--who cannot hold a candle to Eric's execution. It's actually kind of weird.
+Jacob Mix i like pizza and beer 😇
I like this.
I like it a lot!
I'm all in for sending pizza and beer! I'd like to send him something really good though. I'm a fan of the Sweet Baby Jesus, but the Creme Brulee by Southern Tier would do Eric the car guy just nicely!
I have recently been spending a lot of time with Eric here on RUclips, I am ever so grateful for all of the videos.
I'm also having still issues with my brakes... I'll send a separate message though. I'm just really here because I want to chip in on the beer!
THANK YOU ERICCCC!
Why not rebuild the caliper & save 10x the $? 🙄 Otherwise Excellent! 👌
I was just thinking the same thing. New calipers for my car are 230.00+.
Rebuild kit with pistons and seals 50.00.
In my limited experience, while rebuilding a caliper is a viable option for a higher end vehicle, it's not necessarily going to be worth the time on a '97 Subaru
Love your show! I tap the end of the wrench with a $5 dead blow hammer. You get that nice percussive action, but no carpel tunnel.
This is the best video about calipers on YT.
Can I use grease?
+R C Nelson not without lightning
+R C Nelson I do, but that's because I am too lazy to buy the correct stuff.
If you use grease on the caliper guide pins (that's what Toyota calls them anyway) the grease is a petroleum product, as are the guide pin boots. The grease will eat away at the boots causing dirt, sand, etc. to destroy the pins. As far as I know, unless you go to a yard, you can't buy just the pins, you have to buy the caliper. But I'm not 100% sure about that. In any case, the right stuff is easy to get from Amazon, Eric has links in most of his brake videos to the right stuff. It's inexpensive, and won't bring you back to do this job again when the failed boots make your brakes fail because they no longer float. And when they don't float , now you need pads and probably rotors as well. Cheap and easy to get, I would really recommend using the right lubricant once, rather than have to replace the calipers again long before they should have needed it.
LiveFreeAndShoot .
LiveFreeAndShoot would you send a link all those stuffs
Never done this before. After checking numerous sources on how to proceed, I found this one to be a thorough enough to give me total confidence. Can't always figure out how to do something right by watching a five minute vid.
my favorite mechanic on youtube its probably a tie between you and scotty kilmer your info on the silicone paste and the anti seize worked like magic especially the silicone paste on the slide pins i tried greases specifically made for slide pins before that and the slide pin would move after i put it back in when i tried silicone paste its like the slide pin had a spring in it :) good stuff man if nobody ever says they appreciate what you do i just want you to know your videos have helped me out alot and please keep em coming
the tip an testing the piston with the bleeder valve open was a great. instead of buying a $60 caliper i only needed to get a $13 break hose. thanks for all of the little tricks of the trade, not only does it make the project go quicker, it also makes it more enjoyable.
Thanks for your videos. I cannot afford some repairs that are typically DIY, so your videos help me save money, so I can save my money for the real big projects that require major mechanic repairs.
You are super and I love working on vehicles though I never could or would trust myself doing anything that has to do with brakes. THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO. MY CONFIDENCE IS UP YOU ARE GREAT. THIS COUNTRY GIRL BY BLOOD LOVES YOU. KEEP UP THE GREAT VIDEOS.
Thank You Eric !!! Was wondering about the shims as I'm redoing a 2003 Dodge Durango & all the videos as well as the Haynes Repair Manual doesn't show the shims on my new ceramic hybrid shoes. Had senior-moment-itis moments & you cleared all the confusion....again I thank you sir !!!
I really like you tutorial. You have clear explanation on all the necessary procedure. Here I have some strange experience that I hope to get your explanation/advise. And I hope your explanation can not only help me but some other followers to work on their brakes.
Lately I have replaced my rotors, calipers and brakes. I was happy to get the job done. Everything was fine for a while, a short while I should say, because I have not driven it for more than a thousand miles. Then all of a sudden one day, I felt the left side brake started to rattle, which was the experience I had before and later I found the caliper seized. But now I have had new calipers, brakes and rotors. And what interesting was that as I pulled my vehicle to the side of the road, the bumpy vibration on the wheel temporarily released the brake. However, similar incidents happen a few times later. And one occasion was very bad when I was driving on high way. I had to pulled myself over to the side. Seeing smoke come out of the wheel I notice the rotor got carved again. For it was already close to home, I drove slowly back. Surprisingly, the vehicle was okay driving at 40-50mi/hr all the way home. And I check the rotor again expecting a terrible result on its surface. Another surprise, the rotor surface became smooth! I wonder what is going wrong with my brake system. It should n't be the master cylinder issue for only one wheel encounters the problem, right?
Again with all the little details along the way, very useful information that most people leave out, thanks again
I miss this guy. His video's are timeless. I will forever reference them when I need to. Thanks Eric!
What happened to him? Is he still with us?
I don't care how imperfect you think you are, you have saved me a lot of money and I have also learned a lot from you and that makes you perfect in my view
Love your videos Eric. You provide lots of great tips and caveats during jobs. Keep coming at us
Thanks Eric ! Love how much in detail you go!
Nice video as usual Eric. Ref your comment about initial impact action on first undoing tight / rusty (frame bolts in this case), 110% with you on this. It prevents bolt shearing that is often the result of sheer leverage, also if done manually this way you have a far greater feel for the condition the bolt is in. Once loosened then use power drivers or whatever floats your boat. If you are worried about using palm of the hand to hit the spanner (sorry, USA / Canadian guys wrench) then use a soft faced mallet with care.
I hear the purists say that you shouldn't hit a spanner (there I go again) well I say spanners are very tough and if you buy quality tools they will take a bit of gently punishment from a soft faced mallet which also will not damage the surface of the tool. I also say that I would rather use this method than shear bolts in castings, if it is rusty and / or tight enough to shear upon initial undo then it'll likely be a bitch to extract, even with heat and it's time consuming too.
Thanks Eric, all good info. Can only imagine how fast you'd slam a "complete" front disc brake job without filming! I'd still be pulling the front left wheel
Thanks so much for putting the video together. It is a big help in figuring out how to replace the rotor and caliper on my SUV
Good clear video and audio/ decent lighting.
Brake hose/ banjo bolt up - Mmm, soft copper is normally preferred because the (clean) mating surface should have a slight narrow circular rise that will cut into the unused copper sealing surface. Steel is too hard to cut into.
Eric you are the best thanks for helping people like me that don't have much car repair experience again thank you
Thank you for another great video, educated, well done and easy to understand . Thanks a lot, Mike
Thanks Eric your video helped me out a lot. I did in fact have uneven pad wear and I installed new pads and rotors but have an issue with brake fade. I am going to replace my calipers and see if that solves my issues.