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Just replaced front pads and rotors. The new rotors were the coated kind . I had trouble assembling the front right side caliper back into the holder. I noticed the wheel was very stiff and didn't spin freely as you demonstrated. The left was stiff also but not as bad. I put the wheels back on and drove for a day. I now notice the front right rotor has partial wear. All other rotors have full wear. Now I'm getting a knocking sound as if the tires are going flat. I ordered a new set of front calipers. Any other ideas?
@kennextechnical8561 the knocking noise can just be a suspension component that went out at that time. For the other issues, it can also be a the brake hose, but most of the time its calipers.
New rotors are about $100 each while resurface can be $20 each. I’ve had my rotors resurfaced by sketchy shops, I ended up buying new ones. I’ve also had rotors resurfaced by professionals and I was amazed at how good they looked. I want to say it’s not always the shops it’s the people working there.
@@3gcraftsman ...not good practice anyway. If you look at the letter markings on a rotor....you maybe only have 1-2 mm tolerance anyway that you can machine off.....often you want to take off more. And then....if you do turn the rotors, you have reduced the amount of metal that remains.....so the "thermal ballast" you have is reduced....and the brakes will become bad (warp), even faster therafter....if warping was the original reason to turn the rotors.
Thanks. .. took itgarage and they released the handbrake line?? Think I'm gonna take a look because it feels like pins or slow release caliper. Love this channel. Even know how to test wheel rotation first now. 😊
Oof..Bad advice. If you do something on one side, dude, always do the other side of the axle too. Or be cheap. If I replace the RP caliper, I'm replacing the RD caliper too... @@OneTrickTech
This is like the 3rd or 4th video i've watched today, Here's the problem, I replaced the caliber on the rear passenger side, And i'm having the same problem with the new one, Am a delivery driver, So I went through my replacement brake pads pretty fast, Like 6 to 8 months The driver side wore so badly that I had to replace, The rotor too, l ( By the way, I am replacing both rotors, And all The pads for the rear.) The problem I'm having is, why is A Rear caliber for the passenger side frozen AGAIN!??! It is a 2020 Nissan centra, SV... like Is it common for the rear passenger caliber to freeze up?? Or do I just have a bad rear hose?
Might be dirty fluid? Hoses have any cracks in them when you slightly bend them and inspect? But I think you might need to bleed them properly.Start bleeding the farthest caliper from the reservoir first.And keep your fluid level topped off after every wheel caliper you do.Have someone pump a few times,like 5x,then hold the brake pedal down without ever letting off.While you open the line and barely open the bleeder valve,till the pumper signifies the pedal is all the way down.And tighten the valve and then the pumper can release the brake and start pumping it up again,5x,,then holds.And you open and repeat the process.Never let the pumper let off till you have the valve tight.That keeps air from getting into the line.Then goto next farthest caliper,and then on the front again farthest,till your at the closest to the reservoir.Never run out of fluid in it.And go around them again till you have a good stiff pedal on the brake.That opens the caliper drums and pads after you pressed them while driving.And your rotors should turn freely after you bleed them real good.Good luck and hope it works out for you and you get the job done safely and orderly.
@@mitchellr.edwards381 Bro thank you very much, Unfortunately, I still need to get a new Rear brake caliber, Within my struggles I ripped the boot..... Very frustrated I was
What happens if the inner brake pad came off and the piston is holding the rotor and the piston is warped after the metal is shaved down from metal to metal contact. Can I replace the piston alone?
All the last few sets of brakes pads I replaced on 2 different cars, different brands were really tight on the calipers because of the clips. Here this seems way to easy to remove the pads. What is your take on this? Thanks
@benhaze1010 They should move freely on the caliper bracket. They usually get really tight because of rust build up underneath the clips. Every brake job I do, I clean the caliper bracket with a wire brush and file. Then I add anti seize before putting the new clips to slow down the rust build up.
@@OneTrickTech Thanks for the response! Yes I do the same as well. It seems the last 2 brands I used make the anti-rattle clip very wide and stiff to avoid noise complaints but makes their installation more challenging or I am getting parts not meeting OEM specs :(
So I have the noise but it’s not slowly rotating. Tire spins and rotor spins fine. Just a bad noise. Had bearing, rotor, pad, and caliper replaced. Still making noise. Is it the bracket that may be unaligned?
@@OneTrickTech I am asking about how the mechanical movement of the piston works. When the oil is pressed, it pushes forward, and when the pressure is lifted from the brake pedal, the oil returns again. Whoever returns the piston ?
@@LOLO-vu9qi Ok I see, its called the square cut piston seal inside the caliper that returns the piston. It acts like a spring, when the fluid pushes the piston, the seal flexes and then when it retracts, it grabs the caliper piston with it. Hope that was clear. Thanks !
@@OneTrickTech Yes, thank you 🙏💕for the clarification. Now the idea has been clarified well. There must be a strong movement to return the beast to its place again 🤔after the oil pushed it forward and out of its place. Thank you very much for the clarification.👍🌷🌿🙏
most likely you have an air pocket in the system. Something is pushing the piston back out, and its not the brake fluid. Could also be the caliper , the seal might be bad. Try bleeding that caliper first and see what happens.
@@OneTrickTech ok yeah I bled it and still the same. It is old. So I just replaced the caliper completely and hopefully it’s good. I had to go to work. So tomorrow I’ll check to see how it is.
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brake hoses can have blockages going either way.
Came to say the same thing. Not always the caliper but tge hose inner swellage.
Just replaced front pads and rotors. The new rotors were the coated kind . I had trouble assembling the front right side caliper back into the holder. I noticed the wheel was very stiff and didn't spin freely as you demonstrated. The left was stiff also but not as bad. I put the wheels back on and drove for a day. I now notice the front right rotor has partial wear. All other rotors have full wear. Now I'm getting a knocking sound as if the tires are going flat. I ordered a new set of front calipers. Any other ideas?
@kennextechnical8561 the knocking noise can just be a suspension component that went out at that time. For the other issues, it can also be a the brake hose, but most of the time its calipers.
Good video bro
Do you recommend going to a machine shop to resurface the rotors?
If the cost of resurfacing is lower than 2 new rotors then go for it. I personally would just buy new rotors
New rotors are about $100 each while resurface can be $20 each. I’ve had my rotors resurfaced by sketchy shops, I ended up buying new ones. I’ve also had rotors resurfaced by professionals and I was amazed at how good they looked. I want to say it’s not always the shops it’s the people working there.
I had a shop that would turn rotors, but the last time I went there they said no one working there knew how to operate the machine. Sign of the times.
@@3gcraftsman ...not good practice anyway. If you look at the letter markings on a rotor....you maybe only have 1-2 mm tolerance anyway that you can machine off.....often you want to take off more. And then....if you do turn the rotors, you have reduced the amount of metal that remains.....so the "thermal ballast" you have is reduced....and the brakes will become bad (warp), even faster therafter....if warping was the original reason to turn the rotors.
Thanks. .. took itgarage and they released the handbrake line?? Think I'm gonna take a look because it feels like pins or slow release caliper. Love this channel. Even know how to test wheel rotation first now. 😊
Could also be because the old soft ( rubber portion) of the brake line is collapsing and not allowing a "release" of the caliper.
Good, concise video. There's no need to replace calipers in pairs of only one goes?
Yea no need. The other can last another couple years and many miles. Just replace the bad one because it could also be a manufacture defect.
Oof..Bad advice. If you do something on one side, dude, always do the other side of the axle too. Or be cheap. If I replace the RP caliper, I'm replacing the RD caliper too...
@@OneTrickTech
This is like the 3rd or 4th video i've watched today, Here's the problem, I replaced the caliber on the rear passenger side, And i'm having the same problem with the new one, Am a delivery driver, So I went through my replacement brake pads pretty fast, Like 6 to 8 months The driver side wore so badly that I had to replace, The rotor too, l ( By the way, I am replacing both rotors, And all The pads for the rear.) The problem I'm having is, why is A Rear caliber for the passenger side frozen AGAIN!??! It is a 2020 Nissan centra, SV... like Is it common for the rear passenger caliber to freeze up?? Or do I just have a bad rear hose?
Might be dirty fluid? Hoses have any cracks in them when you slightly bend them and inspect? But I think you might need to bleed them properly.Start bleeding the farthest caliper from the reservoir first.And keep your fluid level topped off after every wheel caliper you do.Have someone pump a few times,like 5x,then hold the brake pedal down without ever letting off.While you open the line and barely open the bleeder valve,till the pumper signifies the pedal is all the way down.And tighten the valve and then the pumper can release the brake and start pumping it up again,5x,,then holds.And you open and repeat the process.Never let the pumper let off till you have the valve tight.That keeps air from getting into the line.Then goto next farthest caliper,and then on the front again farthest,till your at the closest to the reservoir.Never run out of fluid in it.And go around them again till you have a good stiff pedal on the brake.That opens the caliper drums and pads after you pressed them while driving.And your rotors should turn freely after you bleed them real good.Good luck and hope it works out for you and you get the job done safely and orderly.
@@mitchellr.edwards381 Bro thank you very much, Unfortunately, I still need to get a new Rear brake caliber, Within my struggles I ripped the boot..... Very frustrated I was
Its likely you have a bad flexi hose going to the brake. They tend to collapse internally and cause the brakes to stick
@@mitchellr.edwards381星期天
What happens if the inner brake pad came off and the piston is holding the rotor and the piston is warped after the metal is shaved down from metal to metal contact. Can I replace the piston alone?
@nathanielfausto5826 yes you can, but also replace the dust boot and square cut piston seal
You need new pads too bro... and possibly a new rotor!
I have a 2017 Kia forte lx. The right tire doesn’t spin at all in the air. I am also getting a high pitched noise when turning right or breaking
Its front wheel drive
Ive had new rear break pads fitted and they squeak when I’m driving when i break it stops, any ideas pls
All the last few sets of brakes pads I replaced on 2 different cars, different brands were really tight on the calipers because of the clips. Here this seems way to easy to remove the pads. What is your take on this? Thanks
@benhaze1010 They should move freely on the caliper bracket. They usually get really tight because of rust build up underneath the clips. Every brake job I do, I clean the caliper bracket with a wire brush and file. Then I add anti seize before putting the new clips to slow down the rust build up.
@@OneTrickTech Thanks for the response! Yes I do the same as well. It seems the last 2 brands I used make the anti-rattle clip very wide and stiff to avoid noise complaints but makes their installation more challenging or I am getting parts not meeting OEM specs :(
So I have the noise but it’s not slowly rotating. Tire spins and rotor spins fine. Just a bad noise. Had bearing, rotor, pad, and caliper replaced. Still making noise. Is it the bracket that may be unaligned?
Is the noise a clanking or a grinding/scraping
@@TChisholm8616sounds like it at 0:47. Like I said it doesn’t have break problems at all. Just so loud noise
@@bk2_sadie368 sounds like it is your wheel bearing needs to be replaced
Did you find the problem?
Thank you
hey can the caliper pins, if one of them is stuck, can it cause the same noise ?
@xxdavidduranxx yes a stuck guide pins can cause noises. Multiple stuck guide pin will mostly cause a spongy brake pedal
@@OneTrickTech thanks for replying
What makes the calipers so expensive compared to discs, pads and wheel and hub?
How to piston caliper back again inside after push the brake stop??
if the piston does not go back in, then you will need a new caliper its seized
@@OneTrickTech
I am asking about how the mechanical movement of the piston works. When the oil is pressed, it pushes forward, and when the pressure is lifted from the brake pedal, the oil returns again. Whoever returns the piston ?
@@LOLO-vu9qi Ok I see, its called the square cut piston seal inside the caliper that returns the piston. It acts like a spring, when the fluid pushes the piston, the seal flexes and then when it retracts, it grabs the caliper piston with it. Hope that was clear. Thanks !
@@OneTrickTech
Yes, thank you 🙏💕for the clarification. Now the idea has been clarified well. There must be a strong movement to return the beast to its place again 🤔after the oil pushed it forward and out of its place. Thank you very much for the clarification.👍🌷🌿🙏
What if I push the piston in and a few seconds later it slowly goes back out? Is that just a bad piston?
most likely you have an air pocket in the system. Something is pushing the piston back out, and its not the brake fluid. Could also be the caliper , the seal might be bad. Try bleeding that caliper first and see what happens.
@@OneTrickTech ok yeah I bled it and still the same. It is old. So I just replaced the caliper completely and hopefully it’s good. I had to go to work. So tomorrow I’ll check to see how it is.
How was it? @@Triosmind
What if you replace seal of the caliper and continues binding should i go further to replace caliper
hard to say. A new caliper will also have a new piston so that can help fix the issue.
I think is just parking brake shoes not adjusted properly
Discpad rattling