Finally, explained in detail from start to finish..... and without annoying music in the background. Guess what I will be doing on my day off tomorrow?
Watched a few videos about dargging brake/frozen caliper, nobody else has covered the possibility of it being caused by a blocked (or partially blocked) brake line, great video thank you...
My F150 has been wearing out pads very quickly and it even locked up in a parking lot. But then I backed up and then went forward and I was able to get home without them locking up again. I assumed it was the caliper so I put on a new one and now from time to time at low speeds the lock up problem is happening. I'll try that test of loosening the bleeder screw to release the pressure and see what happens. That does make sense. Thank you. I'm at wits end and ready to shop for another truck.
Or try cracking the top of the hose connector, if it squirts out without brake pedal pushed, it’s the hose. Would have to re bleed that side of the brakes.
Had to scroll waaaaaaaay down to find this EXCELLENT video. I had the exact problem described here. The caliper piston, piston seal, piston boot, pins, boots, glides ALL looked perfect. I was stumped. Only ONE person on a forum suggested the hose as a possible culprit. So I went hunting on RUclips for validation and eventually found this video. My problem was a bad brake hose.
I changed my brake hose as had that problem & sure enough that sorted out the problem, the hose cost just £16.30 off eBay, took me 45 minutes to replace the hose, thanks too this video, because all the so called garages I approached kept saying it could be the abs pump.
You're 100% correct. Ive encountered this very fault. My front brake was sticking so bad you could smell burning and it was very hot to touch, yet when i took caliper apart all looked good pins well lubed piston moving freely. A friend told me to change hose, exactly as you say over time they act as a one-way valve hence causing brake to stick. Great advice for anyone with a sticking caliper.
A car garage i went to thought i might have this problem but we had a go and it didnt help. Hopefully just need the pins lubricated and maybe the bit at the back of caliper where handbrake joins
@@motorcarnut i suspect that they did not clean the caliper pins or apply silicone gel to them. My understanding is a new caliper does not come with new caliper pins.
2012 gmc 2500 hd. You cured my brake problem. First sign of my problem was the truck had a slight pull to the left when i applied the brakes. It all of a sudden had a constant pull to the right while driving and not applying the brakes. Noticed the smell coming from the brake pads on my right front wheel. My first thought was to just go buy a new caliper but i decided to see if i could get the brake line off first. As soon as i loosened the bolt holding the brake line to the caliper the fluid came out like it was under pressure. Thinking that wasn't a caliper problem i searched and found this video. I did the steps to diagnose the problem with the flex line and it was exactly to the T. Installed the new brake line and the problem is solved! Thanks for the awesome video!
Most informative video for troubleshooting brake issues. Changed my rear caliper, took for test run and both front brake were smoking. Thought it was master cylinder and booster so took it to shop. Told them both fronts were smoking. They replaced caliper and hose on right side. Did nothing to the left. Didnt have any issues until today about 3 weeks after shop had it. Spent $1010 on that, not including the rear caliper I changed myself. Going to do this tomorrow mans try to figure out if it the hose or the caliper or both. If you want something done right, you pretty much have to do it yourself. For $1010 I probably could have changed all the rotors, calipers, hoses, and pads myself. What a waste of time and money.
I know it is too late for a response being a 1-year-old thread, but for future DIY freaks, here is an insight. I had a confounding problem with my Chevy Cruze Diesel for more than 6 months when the calipers would not release after lifting the foot off the brake pedal once it got to high temperatures. The brake assembly used to be serviced the usual way at the authorized service centre by greasing the slide pins with appropriate grease from many different brands, but to no avail. The mechanic then felt it was the synthetic brake cylinder seal, but that too was not the culprit. I then decided to do a DIY of the problem and found out that the caliper pins were not the problem at all and neither was the piston rubber seal. The actual issue was with the front disc brake alloy pistons of the brake caliper assembly. Do not ask me why but the composition of the piston used in the Cruze Diesel in Bhaarath (India) was suspect as it enlarged minutely over time (it was not the brake cylinder rusting); I sanded it down and then cleaned it thoroughly and put back the assembly, and it has been a smooth ride ever since. Fuel efficiency too has gone up from 9kmpl to 14kmpl as there was severe drag from the brakes. Acceleration too has gone up by leaps and bounds. In my particular case, the piston was the culprit and not the sliding caliper pins, brake cylinder or the brake cylinder synthetic seal.
@@daveknapp2000 well, in the past 39 years, I have had a plethora of Japanese and European cars including the Toyota Corolla which is considered reliable, but in the 14 years that I have owned this Chevy Cruze 2 liter diesel, the only unwarranted change has been the lower A arm and the issue with the brake piston assembly. None of my earlier cars have been as reliable as this Chevy and after 200,000 km, it is still on its first clutch assembly, even after driving it in stop and go traffic of Kerala, Bhaarath (India). The so-called Corolla has not been as reliable and started giving me trouble after 4 years of ownership. Maybe I am just plain lucky with the Cruze diesel. I do presently own a Honda City too, but when travelling interstate, I prefer the Cruze Diesel for its tremendous acceleration and frugal nature at the pump.
Checking cleaning and lubing the guide pins and cleaning rust out of the channels the pads slide into so the pads move freely is a must before assuming it is a bad caliper.
This is an extremely helpful video thank you. Just had a caliper replaced with no change in a dragging issue. Symptoms point to a hose issue. Thank you.
Replaced my caliper assembly and re-lubed everything but still had sticking pads on my front driver side wheel. Switching out the brake hose and flushing the fluid solved everything for me! My gas mileage is back to normal now 👍
This is one of the best overall car part repair videos on youtube. Straight to the point with very good detail. A very fine job sir. You now have one new subscriber as a result.
Thanks a bunch for the info! I changed the brake flex hose, and the problem was gone! I remember that someone told me about that years and years ago I recalled it after I heard you say it! Thanks again!!
You have me as a subscriber and that personal referral. Hopefully those I refer to the same, so let's help your channel by making great troubleshooting advice!
Can you help me remember how to free up the brake proportioning valve? I think it's: if rear is problem, go to front caliper, same side and press in piston pushing pressure towards rear. 04 Ram 1500, it has 2 wheel ABS, but I don't see any inline valve, did they have it in the abs unit?
Wish I would have seen this video before I bought new calipers, haven't confirmed it is the hose that was causing the dragging but I got a feeling it is. Anyway, great video thanks for posting
THANK YOU !!! Never though that flex hose would go bad. Been replacing calipers on our F150 over and over and it's probably that flex going bad. My F350 has two locking up right now FR and LR, thought it might be the ABS box but I will do your hose check first. Thanks again!
Hoses deteriorate causing the brake calipers to lock up. I replaced them all and replaced two brake calipers and had to clean the other two calipers.@@gasisthepastendoil
Thank you for this video. This is exactly whats happening to my car. I have been scratching my head over it because i know the piston is not frozen as it will go back manually, quite freely. Yet the brake is dragging and warping my disc. Excellent video.
This happened on my Mini Van . Scary stuff. Driving and it locked up on a trip. Took to shop no problem. My friend who is a knowledgeable motorhead...said replace lines and fluid. Fix worked.. but rotor was warped from heat. That was next in line for replacement after heat ruin it . Three shops could not find the problem. My buddy who raced cars and backyard mechanic knew.
Excellent video, thank you. I am guessing that if the internals of that hose are so far gone as to act as a check valve as you demonstrated, it is probably not too far away from total failure. (Bursting) I had a brake hose fail on me and the car I was driving had a single reservoir master cylinder (ignorant idea in my opinion) so I lost both front and rear brakes at the same time. That is an experience I would not like to repeat so I check my hoses every time I change pads on any of the vehicles I have owned since.
Thank you! Yes a lot of people overlook the simple things first. But yes, it can be a dangerous situation. I bet you won’t forget that again. Glad nothing happened bad.
Yup this happened to my Land Rover DISCOVERY 2 rears. They were new. They got so hot and red from dragging on the highway my pads turned white dust. New calipers didnt solve it it was the line ends. I upgraded to stainless wirhe extensions and added a 3in lift. This vid would have been perfect for me. But to see it and watch was good for the mind for diy. Great vid and proper troubleshooting. PS this is an invaluable vid to learn fully as it can save a life or more.
Thank you for this video. My brakes were dragging once they heated up. I pulled the hose off the caliper no fluid was coming out. I replaced the hose, bled the brakes, problem solved
Was this happening to just one side or both sides of your vehicle ?..my problem is once my brakes heat up both calipers fail to retract and drag..i let it sit for a little bit they will retract on their own and work fine again until they heat up again..hard to believe this is happening at the same time for Both wheels unless both lines on both sides went bad at the same time and the odds of that seem impossible..
Great video. Was driving and brake pedal suddenly got really really hard. Both front brakes were smoking. Had to park car for about an hour for front brakes to release itself. After brake oil changed same problem. Brake pedal still gets very hard to depress. Can this be bad master brake cylinder, brake booster or the brake hose? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Thank you for the very clear explanation of how to troubleshoot to component level! Just finished replacing rear calipers, rotors and pads on 07 Honda CRV and suspect right side is still dragging. Will do this simple test tomorrow. I tried to replace the hoses as well, but even with a flare end wrench, lots of Kroil penetrating oil and tapping with a hammer and punch, the nut at hard line connection rounded off on me! May be time to take it to a pro. Car has 210k miles, so hoses most likely need replaced and now one hard piped line also.😡
@Motorcarnut Thanks for the reply. I jacked up vehicle, took off wheels, pumped the brakes 3-4 times and checked - both wheels turned freely. Not locked - good! I also did your check and just disconnected banjo bolt on both rear calipers. Both dripped slowly and continuously, so hoses must still be good. I still wanted to replace, because I bought replacements and others are old, but too tough to get line nut off, so I'm gonna leave it. Doing gravity bleed now...
You know when it comes to serious situations like working on brakes, I want to make sure people understand because I just don’t have mechanics or DIYer watching it came be people who never work on a car let alone brakes so that’s why I stress certain situations. But thanks for the comment! Appreciated!
Great analogy. Maybe make mention to check the sliders on the caliper and see if they are bound up as well because this stops the brakes from releasing
I had a rear passenger side brake caliper seize on my 2009 Honda CRV. I installed new rear rotors, pads, and calipers on both rear wheels. Bled all 4 wheels & took it for a test drive. Now both rear wheels are fine, but now the front passenger side is dragging. The car pulls to the right when coasting, but when I hit the brakes, braking is even. It only pulls to the right when driving with brakes off. So, I installed new pads & calipers in the front. I left the front rotors alone, as they are only a couple of years old. Same problem. I then replaced the front passenger side flex line, as the wheel would not free up until I loosened the flex line to relieve pressure. Still dragging after new flex line. Bled the brakes again both manually & did the ABS module auto bleed with my scan tool. I then used my scan tool to run graphed live data of the wheel speed sensors & saw the front passenger side wheel sensor was reading zero. I installed a new OEM Honda wheel speed sensor. After installing the new wheel speed sensor I can now rotate the wheel with tire on if I use a lot of force. Before installing the new wheel sensor I couldn't rotate it at all. I inspected the wheel bearing by removing the brake line. Removing the brake line allows the wheel to rotate freely like all other wheels with no noise. I also did the push/pull test at the 12/6 & 3/9 positions. No play & wheel bearing is good. Since neither of my scanners would pick up any trouble codes, I assumed there is a fault in the ABS module. I picked a used tested good ABS module & installed it. Bled brakes again both manually & with ABS auto bleed on the scanner. Still dragging. I noticed my scan tool has a sensor neutral position recalibration function for the ABS sensors & steering angle sensor, but it won't work with my CRV. Are you supposed to run a sensor neutral position recalibration after installing a new wheel speed sensor? I can't figure out why the front passenger brakes are dragging after new calipers, pads, flex line, wheel speed sensor, and new ABS module. Do you have any ideas as to why only the front passenger side is still dragging???
The abs system would be disabled if the neutral calibration was at fault and codes would be present. Seems like there is a problem with the abs or master cylinder. What, I don’t know, I’m not there to help
I have a RWD truck with calipers in the front and drum brakes in the rear. I’ve just replaced both front calipers. Both front calipers seems to start dragging after a while of driving before and after replacing the calipers. Including the fact the brake pedal starts to get harder and more “stronger” as the brakes start to “drag”. I’ve done a brake fluid flush via bleeding rear to front. I’ve had it to where the fluid inside the reservoir was new, but eventually it started to get darker and have tiny black contaminants.(note: fluid flush was before the caliper replacement) So where I’m at now, is concluding between my soft brake hose or my brake master. My brake master is fairly new, about 1 year since I’ve replaced it. My brake booster is fairly new as well, 1-2 years since it was replaced. Any additional information/second opinions will be helpful.
Don’t know how old truck is but I would replace the front brake hoses and re bleed and see if that fixes the problem. I would think it’s the master cylinder but you already changed it. Also abs system could be at fault, again don’t know the year make or model.
@@motorcarnutThanks for the reply. It’s a 1994 Toyota pickup 2wd standard cab. Just Today, I’ve bleed the brakes from all 4 bleeders screws to flush out any old fluid in the lines. The fluid in the master is fresh and new, but there’s still tiny contaminates that sit in the bottom of the reservoir. I’m going to be changing the brake hoses to see if it helps fix the problem. Thanks
My brakes don't seem to be dragging at all, but there is a horrible sound coming from the back brakes. I changed the pads and rotors yesterday, and the sound is still present, though it doesn't sound as grindy, if that makes sense. The calipers are still good, and I can't see anything physically wrong with any of the parts. It's more of a light scraping sound now with the new brakes on. It's most audible when going at low speeds, like 20-35 MPH. I don't hear it at all once the vehicle hits 40. The sound is kind of like a long pulsating scrape, like skreeeeskreeeeskreeeeeeskreeeee. I know the parking brake is bad, but I haven't been using that because I noticed the cable looked loose, so I'm not sure of that's what is causing it. 2016 RAM 1500 if it matters .
My right rear won’t release its brake either. It’s got new lines and has happened with two new calipers When I take it off the caliper there is dripping brake fluid should I still replace?
Neighbor took his mustang to a brake shop. For locked up front brakes or badly dragging. Shop installed all new lines calipers rotors and brake booster for 2400 on all 4 wheels. Car still has front brake drag. Before it was the driver side. After the shop it's now the passenger side. Only thing that's not replaced are the hard limes and the proportional valve. He asked me to help bc he knew I worked on cars some. I greased the slides bc the shop installed all the new stuff with out grease. I didn't check the slides. I'll try that now. But I have a feeling it's in the proportional valve.
@@motorcarnut I will. Putting in new coils and lower ball joints while I got it apart for my neighbor. He's in the military and is in Alaska right now so I'm finishing up all I can before his return Monday. It's his wifes highchool car from her father who's passed so extra effort and care is going into this 2004 mustang
Thanks for the video. I have a strange situation with my subaru tribeca. When I drive up or down a mountain, the rear brakes get really hot and smell like burnt rubber whereas daily drive in city, they dont get hot. Would you have any clues? I will check hose lines
Thank you very much! Driving down a mountain will cause extreme heat on the brakes and is considered normal. If they continue then they should be checked by a professional asap.
@Motorcarnut before I got this problem I have issue is my AbS traction control light intermittently turning ON. I replaced the front speed control sensors and brake light switch . ABS light still ON and now the brake is feels it's dragging . Thanks
Very high chance that brake line might be my problem. 1989 S10 passenger front rubbing and getting hot. I believe the caliper is original. Pads and rotors replaced about 15yrs ago. Rotor is still good. About 209k miles.
What if two wheels are locked front left and back right and if i release the pressure, both wheels turn freely and then when I brake hard they lock again?
I caused the problem myself. I suspect many of you have as well. I didnt secure the caliper and just sat it on top of the rotor. It fell and the hose caught the full weight of the caliper. It didnt look worn or tore or cracked. The hose didnt leak. However it was damaged internally and that was my problem. I replaced the hose and fixed the issue.
Replace my brakes on my ford transit and the right rear wore out within the month. replaced the caliper and same thing happened. Seems like this is going to be the problem with mine. thank you for your video
I don’t know what side you are on (front or rear); however, if you are on the rear you need to release the e brake, which would release the pressure and allow the rear wheel to spin. I get that’s not the case here, but it’s something to be made aware of.
Great video! I changed both rear rotors and brakes on my truck along side with one piston that was bad. Now both sides get hot, pins are good and calipers retract manually. I will be replacing the hoses i understand they wear over time but how they go bad after replacing rotors and brakes.😢
Yes, it has to do with watch you touched, but if the rubber hoses are really old by pushing the pistons back in can possibly clog the line, but both idk
Great video! I changed my caliper and the fluid dropped from the line till I pinched it slightly. Put the new caliper on. Did fine at first then the same caliper new caliper started grabbing on way home from work. Thought maybe too much fluid so took a little out. Still same issue. Bled the caliper it did let up so could move the rotor eventually. Pressed on the brake and was able to move the rotor. Hopefully that works. Liked and subscribed. Thanks for the info.
Im goin thru this right now. Front caliper was sticking. I bought a new caliper and all new caliper pins. It still sticks. I cld smell and feel the heat on it today. No fluid came out when I pulled the brake line off to put new caliper on. What tool did you use to remove that brake line
I have a Hyundai Santa Fe, a month ago i had the EPS motor coupling element replaced because the steering wheel started producing clucking sound. After the replacement of the coupling element, a brake problem has developed. All the brakes on all wheels are dragging or binding until the car stops and cant be restarted until after maybe 30 mins. What could have been the cause? Is it connected to the replacement of the EPS motor coupling?
@@motorcarnut no, there is no warning code coming up the dashboard. since it was only the power steering motor that was worked on where wiring connectors associated with the steering column were disconnected and reconnected, i also suspect that thats wher the problem is coming from.
What if you're not getting much brake fluid out will you redid your brake line so it's not leaking anywhere but you did pump your brakes a whole bunch when part and you have brake fluid squirt out your tire caliper
@@motorcarnut Thanks. I don't have ABS 98 Jeep Wrangler Calipers are new and moving well otherwise. It would move before I did the bleed. Although not freely. Now it's super tight.
im driving megan Renault, ive changed caliper, and changed brake booster also changed abs pump, the results are the sameit keeps binding or freezing, on one side , left side. i really get to understand that non of the brake booster or abs pump is fault as it only binding on one wheel, which i thin might be the pipe as you suggested that the brake fluid doesnt go gack after realising brakes, after opening the nipple it brakes okay and after geting hot it starts again, binding. ive changed so many mechanics and no luck
I have a right dragging front caliper on my Mazda ute, When I open the brake bleeder fluid comes out at full flow but only shoots out about 10 mm ( 0.393701 inches) for a very short time, then the hub spins really freely as if it's completely free. but as soon as I press the break the light drag comes back again. It is dragging more than the left side & gets hotter. I put a kit in the brake caliper & it is now in excellent condition, but it made no difference.
Finally a vid with my exact problem! For my 02 Honda Civic it has left me braked locked 4 times and I have done everything including replacing the 2 rubber lines on the front of the car but once again it has left me stranded thinking I fixed it figuring that there was a backup suction not releasing into the master because of the line. The wheels would unlock once I break the bleeder now the only other thing I can think of is the master cylinder .... anyway you can help me or give me any suggestions I'm losing my mind
That would be my guess as well or abs system. There is a split junction for front and rear brakes that can fail. But don’t even know what vehicle we’re talking about.
Ayy man... what if I press the brakes and one side acts like it's gonna work, kinda locks in place, makes ya sweat a little then continues the rest of the way... but only on one side.
I like your presentation style and down to earth advice, thank you! I have a baffling problem, don't think it's the brake hose yet, but I installed new rear calipers, rotors and pads on an 07 Subaru Outback, and the brakes locked up tight immediately, brand new (remanufactured I suppose) calipers from 1-A Auto, can't figure why they're seizing. Tried the bleeding process and the calipers didn't unlock so I'm assuming it's a bad caliper or a brake hose after all.
What about those clips that hold the line in place where the fittings are. I found it was almost impossible to get the new clips in with a new line. How necessary are they to be in place?
I just done the brake pads on the front of a 2011 Ford f150 4-wheel drive and it pulls to the right now I forgot to break the bleeder valve loose when I took the pads off. Could it be the calibers
Well it ain't the calibers there new and front lines and pads all way around the truck. And the driver tire is still hard to turn. Have I messed up something. The abs module. How do I know I've replaced everything pads calibers on front. And front brake lines. If any thing it made the driver tire tighter. I've bleed the from passenger back to driver back and then passenger front and driver front there is still pressure and fluid coming out in all connections from line to caliber. I'm lost hope I ain't mess up something. Forgetting to let bleeder loose before closing and then replacing calibers
@@motorcarnutwhat if there is too much brake fluid not allowing the system to relieve pressure? Use turkey baster to remove fluid until level is below the max fill line on reservoir.
My two front brakes are sticking and the pressure only helps a little, I also have a spungy peddle and to the best of my knowledge no air in my system could it be both the master cylinder and the hose?
I put a new caliber, pads, and rotor and for some reason it’s freezing a little bit. I decided to check it after noticing that my car was losing gas mileage… If I decide to replace the brake line, do I need to bleed the brakes again?
Is it common for both front brakes to lock up? Both have brand new calipers but they are both locking up and glowing cherry red. It’s 2012 Chevy hd and I recently replaced the steering box which took a bit to bleed the power steering which is intertwined with the brake booster so maby that’s causing it? The ABS light is on too. Is it common both the passenger and drivers side hoses to do this at the same time?
On my car, all four calipers create rusty dust and dirty all four rims already after 5 days. Also, when I brake, there are loud squealing sounds. Should I change all four calipers?
Nice video...why don't you just release the nut/linkage on the top of the flexible brake line and skip the flexible line on the bottom...and if the "clog" is in the flexible line it will drip from the top but caliper will still be locked/stiff as the clog/oneway valve will still not release inside the flexible brake line? Just wondering why release the bottom and the top is all...?
Man I hear you! Exactly changed pads and calipers in nov 13,2022 brakes in front were sticking badly!! Last week, smelled burning smell and heavy amounts of brake dust on front wheels. Changed entire assembly. Pads, calipers and this time rotors and still as of today 3/1/23 major sticking again on passenger side with burning and dust again. Tomorrow I’ll check the hoses hoping it is
Ya want to know how many times I've truly needed to change a rotor? Once, when pads went to the rivets for a week of use. That was 30 years ago. Been maintaining my own cars for 34 years and owned 40+ used cars and trucks from mini economy cars to 1 ton trucks. Never replaced a rotor other than that one time. Only had 2 times that calipers needed replacing. Unless you're racing vehicles or running commercial heavy trucks, brake components rarely need replacing.
Brakes and related components are wear items that means they wear out over time regardless of maintenance. And have to be replaced when they reach the maximum wear limits.
I'm about to replace my rotors and break pads and also try and clean the calipers + all the shingles in it. Hoping this ain't the problem but it's good to know about this 🤞
Question, still have the same EXACT problem after replacing each line (rubber material) removed and checked the Master, both Valves are clear and operating, reblead all lines. Could it be the proportion valve? That's something that I didn't see any videos in regards to dragging brakes and a faulty Prop valve. Your thoughts ?
I am having the same issue with a 2011 f150 front brakes dragging have replaced both calipers, rotors pads and lines. Could it be a ABS or a master cylinder and how could I test them to see if those are bad
@@motorcarnut Normally a "street-learned car-fixer" would dismount the brakeline on the caliper side, to change the caliper. If he is a little observant, he sees the line is not dripping, just as in your video, and starts to think. I got the tip from a VW T2 forum. You cannot learn more than there.
Thx. Your words & video are very easy to follow & understand. Now I will check my brake hose as I did change my pads & rotors but, have drag. I did clean & grease the guide pins & the caliper pistons went back in fine. But, still not sure what might have caused my inside pad on one rotor to wear to the point of almost metal to metal. Brake pedal is spongy too.
I just had a collision where the master cylinder was pressed on by the fuse box, no noticeable damage to the exterior of the master cylinder but the brake lines were pushed over a little (not pinched). My brake pedal is acting like the system is not getting enough vacuum, the pedal becomes stiff, BUT the brakes are EXTRA sensitive and do not fully disengage unless I come to a complete stop and force the pedal to the floor for a full range of motion of the pedal. If I'm in slow but moving traffic where I only partially brake, not coming to a complete stop, the brakes stick/drag and if I'm on the highway the truck starts shaking because it's like I'm riding the brakes and they're heating up so I have to pull onto the shoulder, stop completely and fully force the stiff pedal to the floor and release in order for the brakes to release. The idiots at the dealer said it's not a result of the collision, just a coincidentally failed vacuum pump. They're idiots, the brakes work, TOO good, the OPPOSITE of what happens with low vacuum. but the pedal is stiff, the breaks are SUPER touchy. What's the deal? Before I go play process of elimination, throwing random parts at the problem. 2017 Silverado, L86
Could be an ABS problem. Being the truck was in an accident regular trouble shooting over the internet is not going to work because who knows what got damaged. This has to be looked at in person, sorry
What if non of the 4 calipers don't relieve pressure? If I open the bleeder valves of the calipers they release. All 4 is this way. All brand new also. Will bad master cause this? Or bad abs module
@@motorcarnut 😂 Well I just found that all of the brake hoses are shot. Fluid only travel one way pretty much. I'm replacing now. I never have had to replace a rubber brake hose but coincidence all 4 go at the same time. What the hel
I had a 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera. Did the same thing. Got so hot it started to melt the wheel cover. Changed out the flexible lines and it was fixed. The lines collapsed on the inside.
One things for sure, I recently bled my front brakes on the bike and there was a bunch of crud that came out. Nasty stuff accumulates in there and it was acting the same way, not only the caliper sticking but the lever felt weird. I did not crack the bleeder to see if it would spurt, i only instinctively began bleeding the brakes and now they are much better. So im guessing if i use one of those pinching clamps on that rubber line you have there then it will cause it to deteriorate more? You know some of those have an inner plastic sleeve, the rubber is just there for flexibility and protection.
One question? I have replaced both rubber lines and I still have the same problem, I since disconnected the top end from the rubber hose and i notice its NOT dripping as in your video, would the issue be in the upper lines? Rather than the Master cylinder.., thanks again for everyone's help..
Got it.. i did end up taking the master out for inspection, no leaks however i noticed it was full of dirt spots inside the reservoir, cleaned it out the best i could and made sure all water was 100% dried out before installation, bleeding out now will keep you posted in case my rare scenario ever comes up in a future problem...thanks. Again ..
So I put a new rotor and new caliper with pads and it still wont release,but when I bleed it fluid comes out but it's not relising the brake? Any ideas why?
thank you sir that is very helpful info I have the same situation sticking my front break from left side brought my truck at the mechanic to replace my break pads I fix this stuff normally i do mechanic myself problem is I don't have time to replace it so busy at work so I end up bringing to the mechanic they change the pads the next day I heard loud squeaking in the front I brought it back and they told me that I have a bad caliper because those are plastic piston so they will stick its a ford f150 EB so I end up to buy a new whole assembly two new caliper now in a few days I was wondering I can smell a burning break pads I try to touch the caliper it burns my finger but the rest of them its alright I can even touch them and I heard its like a popcorn that is pooping sound so that is very hot I try to pump and bleed to make it sure will turn but still not turning thanks for the video well explained.
No problem, thanks for the feedback. Yes does sound like it’s locking up, don’t drive it like that you can lose the brakes and ruin the rotor and pads.
Yes still dragging and its so hot the caliper should not frozen because its brand new both front but except for the left front its stuck its hard to turn i cant turn it freely
Would this issue make it so the car can not move? Ive been tring to figure it out my 2008 rav4 can't move. I can tow it. Thats how i got it home. The transmission is absolutely fine the engine is absolutely fine if not so so clean and super nice. Beautifully purrs. No problems so. I took off from a stop light.BOOM!! one loud BOOM then almost a swooshing sound like the breaks were still engaged slowing the vehicle down till it came to a stop. That was it. The cv axels are good. The breaks and calipers and rotors aren't even 6 months old. Hubs were done 2 years ago. Differential does have a little fluid around it now. That is the only difference i can find. I do notice with the car off the breaks are VERY HARD TO PUSH. That could be because it off? Should that make a difference? But that differential wont make it so it wont move. the front tires should pull it no matter what. The diferentiall is only what my car engages to make it 4x4 on demand not full time. So front wheels shoukd pull it. Right? Or am i not understanding. 😔
You’re correct is most of what you said. The brakes being hard with engine off does matter because the brake booster is not working with engine off so brakes will feel hard. But very well can be the brake line. Which ever wheel is locked up just take wheel off and crack bleeder screw if brakes release then that’s your problem.
I’m having this exact same issue on my 2015 Ford Fusion. Replaced my rear pads and the brakes started dragging. Replaced my caliper, rotor, epb actuator, all on the rear left and it’s still having this issue. It gets so hot when I get to a stoplight a gust of smoke brushes against my window & the smell of brake pads. The rim will actually burn you. Took it to ford too and they did an inspection on the brakes and they said It PASSED, even after explaining it! So I’m going to do this & hope this is the fix I’ve been needing. 😭
Finally, explained in detail from start to finish..... and without annoying music in the background. Guess what I will be doing on my day off tomorrow?
Lol, thank you for the comment and good luck with the repair.
Watched a few videos about dargging brake/frozen caliper, nobody else has covered the possibility of it being caused by a blocked (or partially blocked) brake line, great video thank you...
Thank You, I appreciate the comment
I second that. Thousands of vids on the slide pins which everyone should know...this may be my current issue with my jeep
Thanks! Good luck
My F150 has been wearing out pads very quickly and it even locked up in a parking lot. But then I backed up and then went forward and I was able to get home without them locking up again. I assumed it was the caliper so I put on a new one and now from time to time at low speeds the lock up problem is happening. I'll try that test of loosening the bleeder screw to release the pressure and see what happens. That does make sense. Thank you. I'm at wits end and ready to shop for another truck.
Or try cracking the top of the hose connector, if it squirts out without brake pedal pushed, it’s the hose. Would have to re bleed that side of the brakes.
Had to scroll waaaaaaaay down to find this EXCELLENT video. I had the exact problem described here. The caliper piston, piston seal, piston boot, pins, boots, glides ALL looked perfect. I was stumped. Only ONE person on a forum suggested the hose as a possible culprit. So I went hunting on RUclips for validation and eventually found this video. My problem was a bad brake hose.
Thank you! Very much appreciate the feedback! Glad it helped!
Or worse a failing abs pump
This phenomenon is common on old VW T2 bus types. The brake hose is dissolved internally and swollen. Rubber not resistant to brake fluid in time.
I changed my brake hose as had that problem & sure enough that sorted out the problem, the hose cost just £16.30 off eBay, took me 45 minutes to replace the hose, thanks too this video, because all the so called garages I approached kept saying it could be the abs pump.
@stephenboyd4934 awesome bro! And thanks for the feedback appreciated!
You're 100% correct. Ive encountered this very fault. My front brake was sticking so bad you could smell burning and it was very hot to touch, yet when i took caliper apart all looked good pins well lubed piston moving freely. A friend told me to change hose, exactly as you say over time they act as a one-way valve hence causing brake to stick. Great advice for anyone with a sticking caliper.
Thank you! Feedback much appreciated!
A car garage i went to thought i might have this problem but we had a go and it didnt help. Hopefully just need the pins lubricated and maybe the bit at the back of caliper where handbrake joins
@echoecho5244 Master cylinder or abs system can be at fault as well.
@@motorcarnut i suspect that they did not clean the caliper pins or apply silicone gel to them. My understanding is a new caliper does not come with new caliper pins.
@echoecho5244 depends if you’re getting just the caliper piston part or the complete one with the bracket.
2012 gmc 2500 hd. You cured my brake problem.
First sign of my problem was the truck had a slight pull to the left when i applied the brakes. It all of a sudden had a constant pull to the right while driving and not applying the brakes. Noticed the smell coming from the brake pads on my right front wheel.
My first thought was to just go buy a new caliper but i decided to see if i could get the brake line off first. As soon as i loosened the bolt holding the brake line to the caliper the fluid came out like it was under pressure. Thinking that wasn't a caliper problem i searched and found this video.
I did the steps to diagnose the problem with the flex line and it was exactly to the T.
Installed the new brake line and the problem is solved!
Thanks for the awesome video!
Hey thanks for the write up and feedback! Glad you're back on the road! Awesome.
Most informative video for troubleshooting brake issues.
Changed my rear caliper, took for test run and both front brake were smoking. Thought it was master cylinder and booster so took it to shop. Told them both fronts were smoking. They replaced caliper and hose on right side. Did nothing to the left. Didnt have any issues until today about 3 weeks after shop had it.
Spent $1010 on that, not including the rear caliper I changed myself.
Going to do this tomorrow mans try to figure out if it the hose or the caliper or both.
If you want something done right, you pretty much have to do it yourself. For $1010 I probably could have changed all the rotors, calipers, hoses, and pads myself. What a waste of time and money.
Thanks for the feedback and good luck!
@carcasscruncher9354 Hey what did you find out? Was it the brake line or the caliper on the other side?
@@christianbond009 flex line. I changed both, caliper first and didnt change anything. Then change the flex line and it's better.
Sounds like mechanical work in Australia
I know it is too late for a response being a 1-year-old thread, but for future DIY freaks, here is an insight. I had a confounding problem with my Chevy Cruze Diesel for more than 6 months when the calipers would not release after lifting the foot off the brake pedal once it got to high temperatures. The brake assembly used to be serviced the usual way at the authorized service centre by greasing the slide pins with appropriate grease from many different brands, but to no avail. The mechanic then felt it was the synthetic brake cylinder seal, but that too was not the culprit. I then decided to do a DIY of the problem and found out that the caliper pins were not the problem at all and neither was the piston rubber seal. The actual issue was with the front disc brake alloy pistons of the brake caliper assembly. Do not ask me why but the composition of the piston used in the Cruze Diesel in Bhaarath (India) was suspect as it enlarged minutely over time (it was not the brake cylinder rusting); I sanded it down and then cleaned it thoroughly and put back the assembly, and it has been a smooth ride ever since. Fuel efficiency too has gone up from 9kmpl to 14kmpl as there was severe drag from the brakes. Acceleration too has gone up by leaps and bounds. In my particular case, the piston was the culprit and not the sliding caliper pins, brake cylinder or the brake cylinder synthetic seal.
That falls into the frozen caliper situation. I appreciate your insight on how you were able to fix your problem and congrads! Good information.
It is a chevy...if possible don't buy in the future...lol :)
@@daveknapp2000 well, in the past 39 years, I have had a plethora of Japanese and European cars including the Toyota Corolla which is considered reliable, but in the 14 years that I have owned this Chevy Cruze 2 liter diesel, the only unwarranted change has been the lower A arm and the issue with the brake piston assembly. None of my earlier cars have been as reliable as this Chevy and after 200,000 km, it is still on its first clutch assembly, even after driving it in stop and go traffic of Kerala, Bhaarath (India). The so-called Corolla has not been as reliable and started giving me trouble after 4 years of ownership. Maybe I am just plain lucky with the Cruze diesel. I do presently own a Honda City too, but when travelling interstate, I prefer the Cruze Diesel for its tremendous acceleration and frugal nature at the pump.
Checking cleaning and lubing the guide pins and cleaning rust out of the channels the pads slide into so the pads move freely is a must before assuming it is a bad caliper.
This is an extremely helpful video thank you. Just had a caliper replaced with no change in a dragging issue. Symptoms point to a hose issue. Thank you.
No problem, thanks for the feedback!!!
Replaced my caliper assembly and re-lubed everything but still had sticking pads on my front driver side wheel. Switching out the brake hose and flushing the fluid solved everything for me! My gas mileage is back to normal now 👍
Great to hear that and good job!
I had the same issue. Brake hose replacement and new fluid worked
@Wizardstix23 Great to hear that! Thanks for the feedback!
This is one of the best overall car part repair videos on youtube. Straight to the point with very good detail. A very fine job sir. You now have one new subscriber as a result.
Thank you very much for the sub and comment ! Really appreciated!
Thanks a bunch for the info!
I changed the brake flex hose, and the problem was gone!
I remember that someone told me about that years and years ago I recalled it after I heard you say it!
Thanks again!!
Awesome! Glad it's fixed. Thanks for the feedback, Appreciated!
👍👍🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦👍
Thank you! And hello Canada!
Good job explaining this very professionaly explained .thank you God bless you . ❤❤❤😊
Thank you! Really appreciate the kind words! You as well!
Excellent vid. You’re a great educator. Thx for staying on point. You covered everything at an easy to follow pace. You earned my subscription.
I really appreciate that! Thank you for the sub as well!
Thank you! I had the same problem. And it was the brake line hose. WOW! Truck is fine now.
You're welcome! Glad it helped and thanks for the comment.
Thanks for taking the time to do this video, this is true troubleshooting, and in my opinion the best helpful information I have seen!
Very welcome! And thank you for the feedback!!!!
You have me as a subscriber and that personal referral. Hopefully those I refer to the same, so let's help your channel by making great troubleshooting advice!
@Nonurbizniz that you bro much appreciated!
Can you help me remember how to free up the brake proportioning valve? I think it's: if rear is problem, go to front caliper, same side and press in piston pushing pressure towards rear. 04 Ram 1500, it has 2 wheel ABS, but I don't see any inline valve, did they have it in the abs unit?
Just bleed the rear brakes, both sides and the valve should re adjust.
Wish I would have seen this video before I bought new calipers, haven't confirmed it is the hose that was causing the dragging but I got a feeling it is. Anyway, great video thanks for posting
Hey, no problem and good luck!
THANK YOU !!! Never though that flex hose would go bad. Been replacing calipers on our F150 over and over and it's probably that flex going bad. My F350 has two locking up right now FR and LR, thought it might be the ABS box but I will do your hose check first. Thanks again!
No problem! Thanks for the comment.
Booster or vac pump
Hoses deteriorate causing the brake calipers to lock up. I replaced them all and replaced two brake calipers and had to clean the other two calipers.@@gasisthepastendoil
Thank you for this video. This is exactly whats happening to my car. I have been scratching my head over it because i know the piston is not frozen as it will go back manually, quite freely. Yet the brake is dragging and warping my disc. Excellent video.
Thank you! It’s a very overlooked part thats why I made the video which has helped many people so far.
Thanks for helping me understand why I'm still having a problem after replacing the caliper haha
Glad I could help!
Have you got issue fixed i have same issue before it was rear right break now its moved to front both. Cant find whats wrong
For me it was too much fluid in the reservoir. I had to suck some out cause they filled it too full.
This is a very thorough video but I'd like to know what size wrench you need to bleed the brake
Thank you! They vary from vehicle to vehicle . 8,10,11,12 ,13mm etc.
This happened on my Mini Van . Scary stuff. Driving and it locked up on a trip. Took to shop no problem. My friend who is a knowledgeable motorhead...said replace lines and fluid. Fix worked.. but rotor was warped from heat. That was next in line for replacement after heat ruin it .
Three shops could not find the problem. My buddy who raced cars and backyard mechanic knew.
Sometimes owning a shop doesn’t make someone a good mechanic. Thanks for the comment!
@@motorcarnut true. even the dealership didn't figure it out. Glad I had a good friend who was a motorhead. He knew right off.
Great video, very helpful all the best from Fergus in the Republic of Ireland.
Hey tp Republic of Ireland My home! Thank you so much!!!
Excellent video, thank you. I am guessing that if the internals of that hose are so far gone as to act as a check valve as you demonstrated, it is probably not too far away from total failure. (Bursting) I had a brake hose fail on me and the car I was driving had a single reservoir master cylinder (ignorant idea in my opinion) so I lost both front and rear brakes at the same time. That is an experience I would not like to repeat so I check my hoses every time I change pads on any of the vehicles I have owned since.
Thank you! Yes a lot of people overlook the simple things first. But yes, it can be a dangerous situation. I bet you won’t forget that again. Glad nothing happened bad.
Yup this happened to my Land Rover DISCOVERY 2 rears. They were new. They got so hot and red from dragging on the highway my pads turned white dust. New calipers didnt solve it it was the line ends. I upgraded to stainless wirhe extensions and added a 3in lift. This vid would have been perfect for me. But to see it and watch was good for the mind for diy. Great vid and proper troubleshooting. PS this is an invaluable vid to learn fully as it can save a life or more.
Thank you so much! Very appreciated!
Thank you for this video. My brakes were dragging once they heated up. I pulled the hose off the caliper no fluid was coming out. I replaced the hose, bled the brakes, problem solved
You're welcome! Glad to help!
Was this happening to just one side or both sides of your vehicle ?..my problem is once my brakes heat up both calipers fail to retract and drag..i let it sit for a little bit they will retract on their own and work fine again until they heat up again..hard to believe this is happening at the same time for Both wheels unless both lines on both sides went bad at the same time and the odds of that seem impossible..
Great video. Was driving and brake pedal suddenly got really really hard. Both front brakes were smoking. Had to park car for about an hour for front brakes to release itself. After brake oil changed same problem. Brake pedal still gets very hard to depress. Can this be bad master brake cylinder, brake booster or the brake hose? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Thank you! Appreciated ,
If both went at the same time I'd say something in the master cylinder, abs system or a bad proportional valve.
Thank you for the very clear explanation of how to troubleshoot to component level! Just finished replacing rear calipers, rotors and pads on 07 Honda CRV and suspect right side is still dragging. Will do this simple test tomorrow. I tried to replace the hoses as well, but even with a flare end wrench, lots of Kroil penetrating oil and tapping with a hammer and punch, the nut at hard line connection rounded off on me! May be time to take it to a pro. Car has 210k miles, so hoses most likely need replaced and now one hard piped line also.😡
Yes,don’t mess with the brakes if you don’t have the proper tools, be safe with a professional. Thank you for the comment!
@Motorcarnut Thanks for the reply. I jacked up vehicle, took off wheels, pumped the brakes 3-4 times and checked - both wheels turned freely. Not locked - good! I also did your check and just disconnected banjo bolt on both rear calipers. Both dripped slowly and continuously, so hoses must still be good. I still wanted to replace, because I bought replacements and others are old, but too tough to get line nut off, so I'm gonna leave it. Doing gravity bleed now...
@markduykers6603 Yes, hopefully that’s it. Let me know
Thank you! This was the only video with this diagnostic approach that I can across. Very helpful!!
Glad it was helpful! Appreciate the feedback.
Little long winded. The video could be shortened for more watches. But, you nailed it! That’s a great solution.
You know when it comes to serious situations like working on brakes, I want to make sure people understand because I just don’t have mechanics or DIYer watching it came be people who never work on a car let alone brakes so that’s why I stress certain situations. But thanks for the comment! Appreciated!
in the rust belts the clamp that holds your brake hose rusts and closes off the brake hose , seen it a few times .
Good info, thanks!
Great analogy. Maybe make mention to check the sliders on the caliper and see if they are bound up as well because this stops the brakes from releasing
I did say if you replaced your caliper and it's still dragging.
he did several times, watch the whole video instead of skipping through it
Thank you!
Good explanation. Thank you for your time and effort. Love the video God bless you my friend.❤❤❤😊
No problem, I appreciate you watching my channel.
Excellent troubleshooting/diagnosis video. Thank you.
Thank you for your comment
I had a rear passenger side brake caliper seize on my 2009 Honda CRV. I installed new rear rotors, pads, and calipers on both rear wheels. Bled all 4 wheels & took it for a test drive. Now both rear wheels are fine, but now the front passenger side is dragging. The car pulls to the right when coasting, but when I hit the brakes, braking is even. It only pulls to the right when driving with brakes off. So, I installed new pads & calipers in the front. I left the front rotors alone, as they are only a couple of years old. Same problem. I then replaced the front passenger side flex line, as the wheel would not free up until I loosened the flex line to relieve pressure. Still dragging after new flex line. Bled the brakes again both manually & did the ABS module auto bleed with my scan tool.
I then used my scan tool to run graphed live data of the wheel speed sensors & saw the front passenger side wheel sensor was reading zero. I installed a new OEM Honda wheel speed sensor. After installing the new wheel speed sensor I can now rotate the wheel with tire on if I use a lot of force. Before installing the new wheel sensor I couldn't rotate it at all.
I inspected the wheel bearing by removing the brake line. Removing the brake line allows the wheel to rotate freely like all other wheels with no noise. I also did the push/pull test at the 12/6 & 3/9 positions. No play & wheel bearing is good.
Since neither of my scanners would pick up any trouble codes, I assumed there is a fault in the ABS module. I picked a used tested good ABS module & installed it. Bled brakes again both manually & with ABS auto bleed on the scanner. Still dragging. I noticed my scan tool has a sensor neutral position recalibration function for the ABS sensors & steering angle sensor, but it won't work with my CRV. Are you supposed to run a sensor neutral position recalibration after installing a new wheel speed sensor? I can't figure out why the front passenger brakes are dragging after new calipers, pads, flex line, wheel speed sensor, and new ABS module.
Do you have any ideas as to why only the front passenger side is still dragging???
The abs system would be disabled if the neutral calibration was at fault and codes would be present. Seems like there is a problem with the abs or master cylinder. What, I don’t know, I’m not there to help
I have a RWD truck with calipers in the front and drum brakes in the rear.
I’ve just replaced both front calipers. Both front calipers seems to start dragging after a while of driving before and after replacing the calipers. Including the fact the brake pedal starts to get harder and more “stronger” as the brakes start to “drag”.
I’ve done a brake fluid flush via bleeding rear to front. I’ve had it to where the fluid inside the reservoir was new, but eventually it started to get darker and have tiny black contaminants.(note: fluid flush was before the caliper replacement)
So where I’m at now, is concluding between my soft brake hose or my brake master.
My brake master is fairly new, about 1 year since I’ve replaced it.
My brake booster is fairly new as well, 1-2 years since it was replaced.
Any additional information/second opinions will be helpful.
Don’t know how old truck is but I would replace the front brake hoses and re bleed and see if that fixes the problem. I would think it’s the master cylinder but you already changed it. Also abs system could be at fault, again don’t know the year make or model.
@@motorcarnutThanks for the reply.
It’s a 1994 Toyota pickup 2wd standard cab.
Just Today, I’ve bleed the brakes from all 4 bleeders screws to flush out any old fluid in the lines. The fluid in the master is fresh and new, but there’s still tiny contaminates that sit in the bottom of the reservoir.
I’m going to be changing the brake hoses to see if it helps fix the problem.
Thanks
No problem, let me know how you make out
My brakes don't seem to be dragging at all, but there is a horrible sound coming from the back brakes. I changed the pads and rotors yesterday, and the sound is still present, though it doesn't sound as grindy, if that makes sense. The calipers are still good, and I can't see anything physically wrong with any of the parts. It's more of a light scraping sound now with the new brakes on. It's most audible when going at low speeds, like 20-35 MPH. I don't hear it at all once the vehicle hits 40. The sound is kind of like a long pulsating scrape, like skreeeeskreeeeskreeeeeeskreeeee. I know the parking brake is bad, but I haven't been using that because I noticed the cable looked loose, so I'm not sure of that's what is causing it. 2016 RAM 1500 if it matters .
Could be the parking brake pads dragging or the new rotors are hitting the backing plate for some reason.
My right rear won’t release its brake either. It’s got new lines and has happened with two new calipers
When I take it off the caliper there is dripping brake fluid should I still replace?
There should not be any fluid leaking ever! Also master cylinder give be the problem as well.
Neighbor took his mustang to a brake shop. For locked up front brakes or badly dragging. Shop installed all new lines calipers rotors and brake booster for 2400 on all 4 wheels. Car still has front brake drag. Before it was the driver side. After the shop it's now the passenger side. Only thing that's not replaced are the hard limes and the proportional valve. He asked me to help bc he knew I worked on cars some. I greased the slides bc the shop installed all the new stuff with out grease. I didn't check the slides. I'll try that now. But I have a feeling it's in the proportional valve.
Can be the proportional valve or the master cylinder valves failing for the front brakes.
@@motorcarnut the master is new. I greased the slides and going to check the pin slides tonight. I really feel like it's the proportional valve.
Let me know what it was when you get it fixed, I'm curious now
@@motorcarnut I will. Putting in new coils and lower ball joints while I got it apart for my neighbor. He's in the military and is in Alaska right now so I'm finishing up all I can before his return Monday. It's his wifes highchool car from her father who's passed so extra effort and care is going into this 2004 mustang
@corymerry3399 you sound like a neighbor I wish I had and a good person.
Thanks for the video. I have a strange situation with my subaru tribeca. When I drive up or down a mountain, the rear brakes get really hot and smell like burnt rubber whereas daily drive in city, they dont get hot. Would you have any clues? I will check hose lines
Thank you very much!
Driving down a mountain will cause extreme heat on the brakes and is considered normal. If they continue then they should be checked by a professional asap.
@Motorcarnut before I got this problem I have issue is my AbS traction control light intermittently turning ON. I replaced the front speed control sensors and brake light switch . ABS light still ON and now the brake is feels it's dragging . Thanks
Could be the abs module
Excellent video. Straight to the point. Thank you.
Sure, no problem! Thank you
Very high chance that brake line might be my problem. 1989 S10 passenger front rubbing and getting hot. I believe the caliper is original. Pads and rotors replaced about 15yrs ago. Rotor is still good. About 209k miles.
Definitely time to change it either way for safety
What if two wheels are locked front left and back right and if i release the pressure, both wheels turn freely and then when I brake hard they lock again?
ABS system, proportional valve or master cylinder is what I would check.
I caused the problem myself. I suspect many of you have as well. I didnt secure the caliper and just sat it on top of the rotor. It fell and the hose caught the full weight of the caliper. It didnt look worn or tore or cracked. The hose didnt leak. However it was damaged internally and that was my problem. I replaced the hose and fixed the issue.
Yep, that will do it
Replace my brakes on my ford transit and the right rear wore out within the month. replaced the caliper and same thing happened. Seems like this is going to be the problem with mine. thank you for your video
No problem, thanks for the feedback!
I don’t know what side you are on (front or rear); however, if you are on the rear you need to release the e brake, which would release the pressure and allow the rear wheel to spin. I get that’s not the case here, but it’s something to be made aware of.
Well that should go without saying, but any extra info is always good. Thanks for that.
What if the caliper is sticking only on quick acceleration from stop or uphill acceleration from stop? Could it be the same thing?
Yes or something in the brake caliper is sticking. Unfortunately there are many things that can cause that problem
@Motorcarnut it's a new caliper remanded caliper and it old one was doing the same!
@mysticshaman if the vehicle is older can be the rubber hose or master cylinder problem
I replaced the caliper bracket amd slider pins yesterday amd was fine until today so i think this may be my problem. Thanks for the video!
Sure, no problem! Good luck
Great video!
I changed both rear rotors and brakes on my truck along side with one piston that was bad.
Now both sides get hot, pins are good and calipers retract manually. I will be replacing the hoses i understand they wear over time but how they go bad after replacing rotors and brakes.😢
Good question, they most likely don’t, not both at the same time anyway.
@@motorcarnut thanks for the response. Do you think I should look elsewhere?
Yes, it has to do with watch you touched, but if the rubber hoses are really old by pushing the pistons back in can possibly clog the line, but both idk
Did you get it figured out? I'm having issues after rebuilding my calipers.
Great video! I changed my caliper and the fluid dropped from the line till I pinched it slightly. Put the new caliper on. Did fine at first then the same caliper new caliper started grabbing on way home from work. Thought maybe too much fluid so took a little out. Still same issue. Bled the caliper it did let up so could move the rotor eventually. Pressed on the brake and was able to move the rotor. Hopefully that works. Liked and subscribed. Thanks for the info.
Thank you for the Sub and feedback, really appreciate both!
Im goin thru this right now. Front caliper was sticking. I bought a new caliper and all new caliper pins. It still sticks. I cld smell and feel the heat on it today. No fluid came out when I pulled the brake line off to put new caliper on. What tool did you use to remove that brake line
Just an open end wrench and a pair of locking pliers will do.
I have a Hyundai Santa Fe, a month ago i had the EPS motor coupling element replaced because the steering wheel started producing clucking sound.
After the replacement of the coupling element, a brake problem has developed. All the brakes on all wheels are dragging or binding until the car stops and cant be restarted until after maybe 30 mins. What could have been the cause? Is it connected to the replacement of the EPS motor coupling?
Could be a problem with the ABS system which is associated with the EPS. Any codes coming up?
@@motorcarnut no, there is no warning code coming up the dashboard. since it was only the power steering motor that was worked on where wiring connectors associated with the steering column were disconnected and reconnected, i also suspect that thats wher the problem is coming from.
It very well could be
What if you're not getting much brake fluid out will you redid your brake line so it's not leaking anywhere but you did pump your brakes a whole bunch when part and you have brake fluid squirt out your tire caliper
If you’re not getting fluid flow can be a bad rubber fuel line or air in the system
What causes the one side of brake pad to move up and then down after time feeling tight also making noise
Worn brake caliper or brake pads incorrect size or worn as well.
2012 VW Beetle, Front left , and Rear Right lock up or drag at same time, new hoses, rotors, calipers and pads, still happening..
Sounds like a proportional valve problem
I had this problem. The repair shop, during an inquiry, suggested replacing the brake line hose. Did that and that was the problem.
Great! Thanks for sharing your experience.
I replaced the caliper and the hose and it’s too tight on the rotors to spin freely
Any clues to resolve that one?
Thanks
Master cylinder or abs system. Make sure it’s bled properly and all the hardware and pins move freely.
@@motorcarnut Thanks.
I don't have ABS
98 Jeep Wrangler
Calipers are new and moving well otherwise.
It would move before I did the bleed. Although not freely.
Now it's super tight.
Changed my brakes, rotors, and caliper. Changing break line tommorow.
Make sure your master cylinder is good because this can also cause a caliper to stick.
@@motorcarnut it was the brake line to the caliper. Who would've thought.
That’s why I posted it, most people don’t. Great news!
This explanation is like music to my ears 🎼 perfect sense going to follow everything
Thank you! Much appreciated!
Thank you 🙏🏼 I think this is what happened to my 2012 Jeep Wrangler
Sure, no problem!
im driving megan Renault, ive changed caliper, and changed brake booster also changed abs pump, the results are the sameit keeps binding or freezing, on one side , left side. i really get to understand that non of the brake booster or abs pump is fault as it only binding on one wheel, which i thin might be the pipe as you suggested that the brake fluid doesnt go gack after realising brakes, after opening the nipple it brakes okay and after geting hot it starts again, binding. ive changed so many mechanics and no luck
Change the rubber brake line, it's probably the problem. Can also be a the master cylinder
Good tip///I did not know that the line would do that.
Most people don’t and gets overlooked a lot that’s why I made it
What happens if you replace caliper and line what is next it still locks up but when I release the pressure it turns
Make sure there is no air in the system first, a master cylinder or abs system can cause this as well.
This is the exact information I needed to see, thank you.
You're welcome! Thanks for the feedback
I have a right dragging front caliper on my Mazda ute, When I open the brake bleeder fluid comes out at full flow but only shoots out about 10 mm ( 0.393701 inches) for a very short time, then the hub spins really freely as if it's completely free. but as soon as I press the break the light drag comes back again. It is dragging more than the left side & gets hotter. I put a kit in the brake caliper & it is now in excellent condition, but it made no difference.
Can be the caliper is partially frozen or the brake line inside is deteriorating
@@motorcarnut Yes I think it's the rubber hose, the caliper is in excellent condition.
Finally a vid with my exact problem! For my 02 Honda Civic it has left me braked locked 4 times and I have done everything including replacing the 2 rubber lines on the front of the car but once again it has left me stranded thinking I fixed it figuring that there was a backup suction not releasing into the master because of the line. The wheels would unlock once I break the bleeder now the only other thing I can think of is the master cylinder ....
anyway you can help me or give me any suggestions I'm losing my mind
Like you said, it’s probably the master cylinder or abs problem
@Motorcarnut would it possibly be the master with those exact same symptoms? thanks for your time
Yes
Thank you for the video.. question.. both of my rear brakes are locking up after 4 or 5 pumps
Is there a hose in common to both? Everyone is saying master cylinder. Can I pick your brain!?
That would be my guess as well or abs system. There is a split junction for front and rear brakes that can fail. But don’t even know what vehicle we’re talking about.
Fantastic tutorial !
THOROUGH , no bs , clear coaching !! Thanks mate .
👊🏼 🔥 🧰 🎯
Appreciate it!
Ayy man... what if I press the brakes and one side acts like it's gonna work, kinda locks in place, makes ya sweat a little then continues the rest of the way... but only on one side.
The caliper? If so replace it.
I like your presentation style and down to earth advice, thank you! I have a baffling problem, don't think it's the brake hose yet, but I installed new rear calipers, rotors and pads on an 07 Subaru Outback, and the brakes locked up tight immediately, brand new (remanufactured I suppose) calipers from 1-A Auto, can't figure why they're seizing. Tried the bleeding process and the calipers didn't unlock so I'm assuming it's a bad caliper or a brake hose after all.
Thank you very much for the comment! Yes very well can be the brake line if not master cylinder would be my next check.
What about those clips that hold the line in place where the fittings are. I found it was almost impossible to get the new clips in with a new line. How necessary are they to be in place?
They are very necessary. You don't want anything jiggling around.
This was so helpful thank you sir!
You're welcome! Glad to hear that.
I just done the brake pads on the front of a 2011 Ford f150 4-wheel drive and it pulls to the right now I forgot to break the bleeder valve loose when I took the pads off. Could it be the calibers
One of the calibers is either sticking or has to be bled.
Well it ain't the calibers there new and front lines and pads all way around the truck. And the driver tire is still hard to turn. Have I messed up something. The abs module. How do I know I've replaced everything pads calibers on front. And front brake lines. If any thing it made the driver tire tighter. I've bleed the from passenger back to driver back and then passenger front and driver front there is still pressure and fluid coming out in all connections from line to caliber. I'm lost hope I ain't mess up something. Forgetting to let bleeder loose before closing and then replacing calibers
@@motorcarnutdriver front is sticking.
Wow, this is weird, master cylinder comes to mind before abs system. Something is keeping pressure when it’s not supposed to.
@@motorcarnutwhat if there is too much brake fluid not allowing the system to relieve pressure? Use turkey baster to remove fluid until level is below the max fill line on reservoir.
Great, so just saying if the break booster is bad that makes all the calipers not working right or can be one or two calipers?
Brake booster won't make brakes drag, it just "boosts" the pressure it takes when applying the brakes. It can the the master cylinder or ABS system
My two front brakes are sticking and the pressure only helps a little, I also have a spungy peddle and to the best of my knowledge no air in my system could it be both the master cylinder and the hose?
Not really both failing at the same time. I would bet it’s the hoses.
I put a new caliber, pads, and rotor and for some reason it’s freezing a little bit. I decided to check it after noticing that my car was losing gas mileage… If I decide to replace the brake line, do I need to bleed the brakes again?
Yes, but only the side your'e taking the hose off on.
@@motorcarnut I can’t get the rotor free. It’s locked. Did I mess up on the bleeding part?
If you crack the bleeder on that side does the rotor free up? It should or you have a binding caliper even though its new or still air in the system,
@ no, I think I didn’t bleed it right. Because everything is new and I greased what ever need to be greased.
If you cracked the bleeder and it didn't free up the rotor, the caliper is defective.
Thank you. I will check that out. I have been getting so many conflicting opinions.
No problem, Also can be a failing master cylinder that's sticking internally
Is it common for both front brakes to lock up? Both have brand new calipers but they are both locking up and glowing cherry red. It’s 2012 Chevy hd and I recently replaced the steering box which took a bit to bleed the power steering which is intertwined with the brake booster so maby that’s causing it? The ABS light is on too. Is it common both the passenger and drivers side hoses to do this at the same time?
No it’s not. Can be something wrong with the abs system or master cylinder.
On my car, all four calipers create rusty dust and dirty all four rims already after 5 days. Also, when I brake, there are loud squealing sounds. Should I change all four calipers?
Not unless they are not working properly. The rust should burn off in a few hours of driving
Best informative break video ever two thumbs up
Much appreciated! Thanks for the comment!
Nice video...why don't you just release the nut/linkage on the top of the flexible brake line and skip the flexible line on the bottom...and if the "clog" is in the flexible line it will drip from the top but caliper will still be locked/stiff as the clog/oneway valve will still not release inside the flexible brake line? Just wondering why release the bottom and the top is all...?
You have to release from caliper to make sure it’s the line and not the caliper.
Great video. Wish I would of watched this video before replacing new caliper rotors and pads because tire is still sticking.
Thank you! Hopefully it’s the hose.
Man I hear you! Exactly changed pads and calipers in nov 13,2022 brakes in front were sticking badly!! Last week, smelled burning smell and heavy amounts of brake dust on front wheels. Changed entire assembly. Pads, calipers and this time rotors and still as of today 3/1/23 major sticking again on passenger side with burning and dust again. Tomorrow I’ll check the hoses hoping it is
That would be the cheapest solution. However the master cylinder on its way out can also create your problem.
So that means if the rotor heats up it causes moisture in fluid causing brakes not to work
Eventually, yes
Ya want to know how many times I've truly needed to change a rotor? Once, when pads went to the rivets for a week of use. That was 30 years ago. Been maintaining my own cars for 34 years and owned 40+ used cars and trucks from mini economy cars to 1 ton trucks. Never replaced a rotor other than that one time. Only had 2 times that calipers needed replacing. Unless you're racing vehicles or running commercial heavy trucks, brake components rarely need replacing.
Brakes and related components are wear items that means they wear out over time regardless of maintenance. And have to be replaced when they reach the maximum wear limits.
@Motorcarnut yes, but people over-replace them. Just like a lot of other stuff.
Will that cause the ABS LIGHT TO BE ON AND SOMETIME GO OFF IF YOU GO OVER MAYBE SOMETHING LIKE A SPEED BUMP????😮
Maybe, but will have to be diagnosed to be sure.
I'm about to replace my rotors and break pads and also try and clean the calipers + all the shingles in it. Hoping this ain't the problem but it's good to know about this 🤞
Thanks, good luck
Wtf shingles are you mentioning?
I know that shingles are on roofs, never heard of brake caliper shingles
Question, still have the same EXACT problem after replacing each line (rubber material) removed and checked the Master, both Valves are clear and operating, reblead all lines.
Could it be the proportion valve? That's something that I didn't see any videos in regards to dragging brakes and a faulty Prop valve.
Your thoughts ?
It can be though very rare. Abs system as well can cause this problem. When you crack the bleeders loose does the brakes release?
I am having the same issue with a 2011 f150 front brakes dragging have replaced both calipers, rotors pads and lines. Could it be a ABS or a master cylinder and how could I test them to see if those are bad
@juanbarron6965 it can be both. Try cracking the brake line open and see if the brakes release?
This phenomenon is common on old VW T2 bus types. The brake hose is dissolved internally and swollen. Rubber not resistant to brake fluid in time.
Didn’t know that.
@@motorcarnut Normally a "street-learned car-fixer" would dismount the brakeline on the caliper side, to change the caliper. If he is a little observant, he sees the line is not dripping, just as in your video, and starts to think. I got the tip from a VW T2 forum. You cannot learn more than there.
@louisvanrijn3964 exactly
Thx. Your words & video are very easy to follow & understand. Now I will check my brake hose as I did change my pads & rotors but, have drag. I did clean & grease the guide pins & the caliper pistons went back in fine. But, still not sure what might have caused my inside pad on one rotor to wear to the point of almost metal to metal. Brake pedal is spongy too.
That’s your problem, the spongy petal. You have air in the system causing the uneven wear, if the piston goes back in smoothly.
@@motorcarnut Thank you & I think your right. I will bleed them before I do anything else.👍
I just had a collision where the master cylinder was pressed on by the fuse box, no noticeable damage to the exterior of the master cylinder but the brake lines were pushed over a little (not pinched).
My brake pedal is acting like the system is not getting enough vacuum, the pedal becomes stiff, BUT the brakes are EXTRA sensitive and do not fully disengage unless I come to a complete stop and force the pedal to the floor for a full range of motion of the pedal. If I'm in slow but moving traffic where I only partially brake, not coming to a complete stop, the brakes stick/drag and if I'm on the highway the truck starts shaking because it's like I'm riding the brakes and they're heating up so I have to pull onto the shoulder, stop completely and fully force the stiff pedal to the floor and release in order for the brakes to release.
The idiots at the dealer said it's not a result of the collision, just a coincidentally failed vacuum pump. They're idiots, the brakes work, TOO good, the OPPOSITE of what happens with low vacuum. but the pedal is stiff, the breaks are SUPER touchy.
What's the deal? Before I go play process of elimination, throwing random parts at the problem.
2017 Silverado, L86
Could be an ABS problem. Being the truck was in an accident regular trouble shooting over the internet is not going to work because who knows what got damaged. This has to be looked at in person, sorry
What if non of the 4 calipers don't relieve pressure? If I open the bleeder valves of the calipers they release. All 4 is this way. All brand new also. Will bad master cause this? Or bad abs module
Yes one or both will.
@@motorcarnut 😂 Well I just found that all of the brake hoses are shot. Fluid only travel one way pretty much. I'm replacing now. I never have had to replace a rubber brake hose but coincidence all 4 go at the same time. What the hel
@tykendrick800 wow I wouldn’t think that as well.
I had a 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera. Did the same thing. Got so hot it started to melt the wheel cover. Changed out the flexible lines and it was fixed. The lines collapsed on the inside.
Yes, it’s more common than most people think and easy overlooked.
One things for sure, I recently bled my front brakes on the bike and there was a bunch of crud that came out. Nasty stuff accumulates in there and it was acting the same way, not only the caliper sticking but the lever felt weird. I did not crack the bleeder to see if it would spurt, i only instinctively began bleeding the brakes and now they are much better. So im guessing if i use one of those pinching clamps on that rubber line you have there then it will cause it to deteriorate more? You know some of those have an inner plastic sleeve, the rubber is just there for flexibility and protection.
It’s possible, I would just replace the brake line for peace of mind.
One question? I have replaced both rubber lines and I still have the same problem, I since disconnected the top end from the rubber hose and i notice its NOT dripping as in your video, would the issue be in the upper lines? Rather than the Master cylinder.., thanks again for everyone's help..
Could be, if master cylinder is full and it doesn’t drip, steel line can be corroded.
Got it.. i did end up taking the master out for inspection, no leaks however i noticed it was full of dirt spots inside the reservoir, cleaned it out the best i could and made sure all water was 100% dried out before installation, bleeding out now will keep you posted in case my rare scenario ever comes up in a future problem...thanks. Again ..
That could have did it for sure, not supposed to have dirt. Good for you that you fixed it! Yes keep me updated.
Replaced caliper, line, pads, still locked up tight on passenger from ford transit connect. Line was off Amazon so maybe a cheap line that is junk?
Could be the master cylinder or abs system too
So I put a new rotor and new caliper with pads and it still wont release,but when I bleed it fluid comes out but it's not relising the brake? Any ideas why?
Probably the brake line as I stated in the video. The line can act like a one way valve and not let fluid release.
Excellent video best on here 👌👌
Thanks for the support! Appreciated!
thank you sir that is very helpful info I have the same situation sticking my front break from left side brought my truck at the mechanic to replace my break pads I fix this stuff normally i do mechanic myself problem is I don't have time to replace it so busy at work so I end up bringing to the mechanic they change the pads the next day I heard loud squeaking in the front I brought it back and they told me that I have a bad caliper because those are plastic piston so they will stick its a ford f150 EB so I end up to buy a new whole assembly two new caliper now in a few days I was wondering I can smell a burning break pads I try to touch the caliper it burns my finger but the rest of them its alright I can even touch them and I heard its like a popcorn that is pooping sound so that is very hot I try to pump and bleed to make it sure will turn but still not turning thanks for the video well explained.
No problem, thanks for the feedback. Yes does sound like it’s locking up, don’t drive it like that you can lose the brakes and ruin the rotor and pads.
Yes still dragging and its so hot the caliper should not frozen because its brand new both front but except for the left front its stuck its hard to turn i cant turn it freely
Would this issue make it so the car can not move? Ive been tring to figure it out my 2008 rav4 can't move. I can tow it. Thats how i got it home. The transmission is absolutely fine the engine is absolutely fine if not so so clean and super nice. Beautifully purrs. No problems so. I took off from a stop light.BOOM!! one loud BOOM then almost a swooshing sound like the breaks were still engaged slowing the vehicle down till it came to a stop. That was it. The cv axels are good. The breaks and calipers and rotors aren't even 6 months old. Hubs were done 2 years ago. Differential does have a little fluid around it now. That is the only difference i can find. I do notice with the car off the breaks are VERY HARD TO PUSH. That could be because it off? Should that make a difference? But that differential wont make it so it wont move. the front tires should pull it no matter what. The diferentiall is only what my car engages to make it 4x4 on demand not full time. So front wheels shoukd pull it. Right? Or am i not understanding. 😔
You’re correct is most of what you said. The brakes being hard with engine off does matter because the brake booster is not working with engine off so brakes will feel hard. But very well can be the brake line. Which ever wheel is locked up just take wheel off and crack bleeder screw if brakes release then that’s your problem.
@Motorcarnut man I'm doing that asap. Thabk so much for your reply. I almost never get a reply I seriously appreciate you so much.
@nikkilovetheyardsale-again2608 No problem, good luck!
I’m having this exact same issue on my 2015 Ford Fusion. Replaced my rear pads and the brakes started dragging. Replaced my caliper, rotor, epb actuator, all on the rear left and it’s still having this issue. It gets so hot when I get to a stoplight a gust of smoke brushes against my window & the smell of brake pads. The rim will actually burn you. Took it to ford too and they did an inspection on the brakes and they said It PASSED, even after explaining it! So I’m going to do this & hope this is the fix I’ve been needing. 😭
Good luck it probably is!