Brakes Still Dragging? And Not a Frozen Caliper?
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- Опубликовано: 12 окт 2021
- If your brakes still dragging after you replaced your caliper, it could be the flexible brake line.
⚠️Warning:
If you’re not comfortable on working on the brake system, please seek professional mechanic because of safety issues. Otherwise, watch this video for entertainment only.
❗️If you find this video helpful, I would appreciate a $uper Thanks that can be found below the video.
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Watched a few videos about dargging brake/frozen caliper, nobody else has covered the possibility of it being caused by a blocked (or partially blocked) brake line, great video thank you...
Thank You, I appreciate the comment
I second that. Thousands of vids on the slide pins which everyone should know...this may be my current issue with my jeep
Thanks! Good luck
My F150 has been wearing out pads very quickly and it even locked up in a parking lot. But then I backed up and then went forward and I was able to get home without them locking up again. I assumed it was the caliper so I put on a new one and now from time to time at low speeds the lock up problem is happening. I'll try that test of loosening the bleeder screw to release the pressure and see what happens. That does make sense. Thank you. I'm at wits end and ready to shop for another truck.
Or try cracking the top of the hose connector, if it squirts out without brake pedal pushed, it’s the hose. Would have to re bleed that side of the brakes.
Had to scroll waaaaaaaay down to find this EXCELLENT video. I had the exact problem described here. The caliper piston, piston seal, piston boot, pins, boots, glides ALL looked perfect. I was stumped. Only ONE person on a forum suggested the hose as a possible culprit. So I went hunting on RUclips for validation and eventually found this video. My problem was a bad brake hose.
Thank you! Very much appreciate the feedback! Glad it helped!
Finally, explained in detail from start to finish..... and without annoying music in the background. Guess what I will be doing on my day off tomorrow?
Lol, thank you for the comment and good luck with the repair.
You're 100% correct. Ive encountered this very fault. My front brake was sticking so bad you could smell burning and it was very hot to touch, yet when i took caliper apart all looked good pins well lubed piston moving freely. A friend told me to change hose, exactly as you say over time they act as a one-way valve hence causing brake to stick. Great advice for anyone with a sticking caliper.
Thank you! Feedback much appreciated!
A car garage i went to thought i might have this problem but we had a go and it didnt help. Hopefully just need the pins lubricated and maybe the bit at the back of caliper where handbrake joins
@echoecho5244 Master cylinder or abs system can be at fault as well.
@@Motorcarnut i suspect that they did not clean the caliper pins or apply silicone gel to them. My understanding is a new caliper does not come with new caliper pins.
@echoecho5244 depends if you’re getting just the caliper piston part or the complete one with the bracket.
This is an extremely helpful video thank you. Just had a caliper replaced with no change in a dragging issue. Symptoms point to a hose issue. Thank you.
No problem, thanks for the feedback!!!
Thanks a bunch for the info!
I changed the brake flex hose, and the problem was gone!
I remember that someone told me about that years and years ago I recalled it after I heard you say it!
Thanks again!!
Awesome! Glad it's fixed. Thanks for the feedback, Appreciated!
2012 gmc 2500 hd. You cured my brake problem.
First sign of my problem was the truck had a slight pull to the left when i applied the brakes. It all of a sudden had a constant pull to the right while driving and not applying the brakes. Noticed the smell coming from the brake pads on my right front wheel.
My first thought was to just go buy a new caliper but i decided to see if i could get the brake line off first. As soon as i loosened the bolt holding the brake line to the caliper the fluid came out like it was under pressure. Thinking that wasn't a caliper problem i searched and found this video.
I did the steps to diagnose the problem with the flex line and it was exactly to the T.
Installed the new brake line and the problem is solved!
Thanks for the awesome video!
Hey thanks for the write up and feedback! Glad you're back on the road! Awesome.
This happened on my Mini Van . Scary stuff. Driving and it locked up on a trip. Took to shop no problem. My friend who is a knowledgeable motorhead...said replace lines and fluid. Fix worked.. but rotor was warped from heat. That was next in line for replacement after heat ruin it .
Three shops could not find the problem. My buddy who raced cars and backyard mechanic knew.
Sometimes owning a shop doesn’t make someone a good mechanic. Thanks for the comment!
@@Motorcarnut true. even the dealership didn't figure it out. Glad I had a good friend who was a motorhead. He knew right off.
This explanation is like music to my ears 🎼 perfect sense going to follow everything
Thank you! Much appreciated!
Excellent troubleshooting/diagnosis video. Thank you.
Thank you for your comment
Thank you! I had the same problem. And it was the brake line hose. WOW! Truck is fine now.
You're welcome! Glad it helped and thanks for the comment.
thanks for explaining in a simple and calm way how to do this. you sound trusting. thanks
No problem, thanks for the comment
Thank you for this video. This is exactly whats happening to my car. I have been scratching my head over it because i know the piston is not frozen as it will go back manually, quite freely. Yet the brake is dragging and warping my disc. Excellent video.
Thank you! It’s a very overlooked part thats why I made the video which has helped many people so far.
I know it is too late for a response being a 1-year-old thread, but for future DIY freaks, here is an insight. I had a confounding problem with my Chevy Cruze Diesel for more than 6 months when the calipers would not release after lifting the foot off the brake pedal once it got to high temperatures. The brake assembly used to be serviced the usual way at the authorized service centre by greasing the slide pins with appropriate grease from many different brands, but to no avail. The mechanic then felt it was the synthetic brake cylinder seal, but that too was not the culprit. I then decided to do a DIY of the problem and found out that the caliper pins were not the problem at all and neither was the piston rubber seal. The actual issue was with the front disc brake alloy pistons of the brake caliper assembly. Do not ask me why but the composition of the piston used in the Cruze Diesel in Bhaarath (India) was suspect as it enlarged minutely over time (it was not the brake cylinder rusting); I sanded it down and then cleaned it thoroughly and put back the assembly, and it has been a smooth ride ever since. Fuel efficiency too has gone up from 9kmpl to 14kmpl as there was severe drag from the brakes. Acceleration too has gone up by leaps and bounds. In my particular case, the piston was the culprit and not the sliding caliper pins, brake cylinder or the brake cylinder synthetic seal.
That falls into the frozen caliper situation. I appreciate your insight on how you were able to fix your problem and congrads! Good information.
It is a chevy...if possible don't buy in the future...lol :)
@@daveknapp2000 well, in the past 39 years, I have had a plethora of Japanese and European cars including the Toyota Corolla which is considered reliable, but in the 14 years that I have owned this Chevy Cruze 2 liter diesel, the only unwarranted change has been the lower A arm and the issue with the brake piston assembly. None of my earlier cars have been as reliable as this Chevy and after 200,000 km, it is still on its first clutch assembly, even after driving it in stop and go traffic of Kerala, Bhaarath (India). The so-called Corolla has not been as reliable and started giving me trouble after 4 years of ownership. Maybe I am just plain lucky with the Cruze diesel. I do presently own a Honda City too, but when travelling interstate, I prefer the Cruze Diesel for its tremendous acceleration and frugal nature at the pump.
Thanks for helping me understand why I'm still having a problem after replacing the caliper haha
Glad I could help!
Have you got issue fixed i have same issue before it was rear right break now its moved to front both. Cant find whats wrong
For me it was too much fluid in the reservoir. I had to suck some out cause they filled it too full.
Most informative video for troubleshooting brake issues.
Changed my rear caliper, took for test run and both front brake were smoking. Thought it was master cylinder and booster so took it to shop. Told them both fronts were smoking. They replaced caliper and hose on right side. Did nothing to the left. Didnt have any issues until today about 3 weeks after shop had it.
Spent $1010 on that, not including the rear caliper I changed myself.
Going to do this tomorrow mans try to figure out if it the hose or the caliper or both.
If you want something done right, you pretty much have to do it yourself. For $1010 I probably could have changed all the rotors, calipers, hoses, and pads myself. What a waste of time and money.
Thanks for the feedback and good luck!
This is the exact information I needed to see, thank you.
You're welcome! Thanks for the feedback
Fantastic tutorial !
THOROUGH , no bs , clear coaching !! Thanks mate .
👊🏼 🔥 🧰 🎯
Appreciate it!
Thank you for explaining it so well!
You're very welcome! Thank you for the comment
Wish I would have seen this video before I bought new calipers, haven't confirmed it is the hose that was causing the dragging but I got a feeling it is. Anyway, great video thanks for posting
Hey, no problem and good luck!
Best informative break video ever two thumbs up
Much appreciated! Thanks for the comment!
THANK YOU !!! Never though that flex hose would go bad. Been replacing calipers on our F150 over and over and it's probably that flex going bad. My F350 has two locking up right now FR and LR, thought it might be the ABS box but I will do your hose check first. Thanks again!
No problem! Thanks for the comment.
Booster or vac pump
Hoses deteriorate causing the brake calipers to lock up. I replaced them all and replaced two brake calipers and had to clean the other two calipers.@@dnacannotchange
Thank you this was very helpful!
You're so welcome!
Great video, very helpful all the best from Fergus in the Republic of Ireland.
Hey tp Republic of Ireland My home! Thank you so much!!!
Definitely needed this lesson
Glad to help!
I replaced the caliper bracket amd slider pins yesterday amd was fine until today so i think this may be my problem. Thanks for the video!
Sure, no problem! Good luck
Good stuff Man! I really appreciate the help
No problem, thanks for the comment! Really appreciate it.
thank you very much. Very well explained!
Thank you! Appreciate the comment.
great explanation , thumbs up!
Glad you liked it!
Best video on this topic thanks
Most welcome! Appreciated
Thx. Your words & video are very easy to follow & understand. Now I will check my brake hose as I did change my pads & rotors but, have drag. I did clean & grease the guide pins & the caliper pistons went back in fine. But, still not sure what might have caused my inside pad on one rotor to wear to the point of almost metal to metal. Brake pedal is spongy too.
That’s your problem, the spongy petal. You have air in the system causing the uneven wear, if the piston goes back in smoothly.
@@Motorcarnut Thank you & I think your right. I will bleed them before I do anything else.👍
Wow, hadn't thought of that!! Thank you!!
You are so welcome!
Very informative thank you sir cleared my concerns about this issue
No problem glad to help
very well explained thank you
You are welcome! And thanks for the comment
Thank you. I will check that out. I have been getting so many conflicting opinions.
No problem, Also can be a failing master cylinder that's sticking internally
Well done for sure 👏
Thank you !
Thanks for your help!
Thank you for the comment
Great video, thank you!
My pleasure!
Thank you for this video! I had this same issue on 1988 Honda crx
You're welcome!
Thank you
Just what I needed to learn and repair on my expiration
No problem, good luck and thanks for the comment!
Great video and explanation. I was having trouble on my Kawasaki KLR650 rear brake. Same explanation! Thanks much, sir. You are a great teacher.
\Best Bert
You are welcome! Appreciate the feedback!
Replace my brakes on my ford transit and the right rear wore out within the month. replaced the caliper and same thing happened. Seems like this is going to be the problem with mine. thank you for your video
No problem, thanks for the feedback!
Great video. Thanks.
You are welcome!
Yup this happened to my Land Rover DISCOVERY 2 rears. They were new. They got so hot and red from dragging on the highway my pads turned white dust. New calipers didnt solve it it was the line ends. I upgraded to stainless wirhe extensions and added a 3in lift. This vid would have been perfect for me. But to see it and watch was good for the mind for diy. Great vid and proper troubleshooting. PS this is an invaluable vid to learn fully as it can save a life or more.
Thank you so much! Very appreciated!
Thank you Sr
Very Very helpful 👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
No problem. Thank you for the comment
Excellent!!! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! And appreciate your feedback!
Excellent video, thank you. I am guessing that if the internals of that hose are so far gone as to act as a check valve as you demonstrated, it is probably not too far away from total failure. (Bursting) I had a brake hose fail on me and the car I was driving had a single reservoir master cylinder (ignorant idea in my opinion) so I lost both front and rear brakes at the same time. That is an experience I would not like to repeat so I check my hoses every time I change pads on any of the vehicles I have owned since.
Thank you! Yes a lot of people overlook the simple things first. But yes, it can be a dangerous situation. I bet you won’t forget that again. Glad nothing happened bad.
Great video Thanks 👍
No problem 👍 thanks for the feedback!
Phenomenal troubleshooting
Thank you! Appreciated!
Thanks for making this video
Sure, no problem thanks for the feedback
Thank you for your video. Heading to the parts store now for a new caliper. It's definitely seized
Glad to help!
Very informative
Glad it was helpful!
Very good video the best!my brakes are dragging thank you!!!!
You're welcome! Thanks for the comment
Perfect video, very in depth on the troubleshooting of the more simple parts to the brakes. If you’re a DIY guy it’s safe to say beyond the metal brake line is for a mechanic to see. Thanks for the video
Thank you very much for the feedback! mush appreciated!
A master cylinder troubleshoot is not beyond the DIY...they are pretty basic and just read where the brake lines go to is all....
Thank you for the very clear explanation of how to troubleshoot to component level! Just finished replacing rear calipers, rotors and pads on 07 Honda CRV and suspect right side is still dragging. Will do this simple test tomorrow. I tried to replace the hoses as well, but even with a flare end wrench, lots of Kroil penetrating oil and tapping with a hammer and punch, the nut at hard line connection rounded off on me! May be time to take it to a pro. Car has 210k miles, so hoses most likely need replaced and now one hard piped line also.😡
Yes,don’t mess with the brakes if you don’t have the proper tools, be safe with a professional. Thank you for the comment!
@Motorcarnut Thanks for the reply. I jacked up vehicle, took off wheels, pumped the brakes 3-4 times and checked - both wheels turned freely. Not locked - good! I also did your check and just disconnected banjo bolt on both rear calipers. Both dripped slowly and continuously, so hoses must still be good. I still wanted to replace, because I bought replacements and others are old, but too tough to get line nut off, so I'm gonna leave it. Doing gravity bleed now...
@markduykers6603 Yes, hopefully that’s it. Let me know
Great video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you 👍
Lol, wish I would have see this about 10 years ago. I just threw parts at it. Replaced the calipers first, then worked backwards to the line. Also didn’t realize you shouldn’t push the brake pedal completely to the floor when bleeding, so also had to replace the master cylinder. Good times, but learned some stuff.
Thanks, sometimes that's the way you learn.
Little long winded. The video could be shortened for more watches. But, you nailed it! That’s a great solution.
You know when it comes to serious situations like working on brakes, I want to make sure people understand because I just don’t have mechanics or DIYer watching it came be people who never work on a car let alone brakes so that’s why I stress certain situations. But thanks for the comment! Appreciated!
thanks for the knowledge....didnt think nothing of flex line being bad unless it leaked. good to know
No problem, yep simple things can cause major problems sometimes.
Thats it. that caused my current issue. ty
awesome! Thanks for the feedback
I'm about to replace my rotors and break pads and also try and clean the calipers + all the shingles in it. Hoping this ain't the problem but it's good to know about this 🤞
Thanks, good luck
Wtf shingles are you mentioning?
I know that shingles are on roofs, never heard of brake caliper shingles
very helpful,,,,,............ thx !
Glad it helped!
Really good video
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the comment!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Great video. Well explained information
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the feedback
Thank you 👍👍
Welcome 👍 Thanks for the comment
Very useful information. Thank you for the video.
Glad it was helpful! And appreciate the feedback!
Dude you are a car god man lmao only video explaining right like this thank you
Thank you so much! Really appreciated!
Great analogy. Maybe make mention to check the sliders on the caliper and see if they are bound up as well because this stops the brakes from releasing
I did say if you replaced your caliper and it's still dragging.
he did several times, watch the whole video instead of skipping through it
Thank you!
Life saver man
Glad to hear that! Appreciated!!!
Great vid
Thank you!
Thank you for this video. My brakes were dragging once they heated up. I pulled the hose off the caliper no fluid was coming out. I replaced the hose, bled the brakes, problem solved
You're welcome! Glad to help!
Great video. Wish I would of watched this video before replacing new caliper rotors and pads because tire is still sticking.
Thank you! Hopefully it’s the hose.
Man I hear you! Exactly changed pads and calipers in nov 13,2022 brakes in front were sticking badly!! Last week, smelled burning smell and heavy amounts of brake dust on front wheels. Changed entire assembly. Pads, calipers and this time rotors and still as of today 3/1/23 major sticking again on passenger side with burning and dust again. Tomorrow I’ll check the hoses hoping it is
That would be the cheapest solution. However the master cylinder on its way out can also create your problem.
gud vid i was about to buy a master, thx
Thank you! Hopefully this is it. Good luck
Thank you bro💯💯💯💯💯
No problem!
Changed my brakes, rotors, and caliper. Changing break line tommorow.
Make sure your master cylinder is good because this can also cause a caliper to stick.
@@Motorcarnut it was the brake line to the caliper. Who would've thought.
That’s why I posted it, most people don’t. Great news!
I like your presentation style and down to earth advice, thank you! I have a baffling problem, don't think it's the brake hose yet, but I installed new rear calipers, rotors and pads on an 07 Subaru Outback, and the brakes locked up tight immediately, brand new (remanufactured I suppose) calipers from 1-A Auto, can't figure why they're seizing. Tried the bleeding process and the calipers didn't unlock so I'm assuming it's a bad caliper or a brake hose after all.
Thank you very much for the comment! Yes very well can be the brake line if not master cylinder would be my next check.
Excellent info, out of the box thinking! I was wondering how it would get blocked in the first place?
Hey thanks for the comment and good question! What happens is the inside of the rubber starts to deteriorate due to age, heat etc. and starts to crack and flake acting like a one way valve so when you press the brakes the fluid pushes the pistons out and when you release the brake pedal the fluid gets trapped in the flaking rubber and doesn’t release the pressure.
@@Motorcarnut ahhh thank you so much!
No problem
Thank you for the video.. question.. both of my rear brakes are locking up after 4 or 5 pumps
Is there a hose in common to both? Everyone is saying master cylinder. Can I pick your brain!?
That would be my guess as well or abs system. There is a split junction for front and rear brakes that can fail. But don’t even know what vehicle we’re talking about.
Thankyou
You’re welcome 😊
Finally a vid with my exact problem! For my 02 Honda Civic it has left me braked locked 4 times and I have done everything including replacing the 2 rubber lines on the front of the car but once again it has left me stranded thinking I fixed it figuring that there was a backup suction not releasing into the master because of the line. The wheels would unlock once I break the bleeder now the only other thing I can think of is the master cylinder ....
anyway you can help me or give me any suggestions I'm losing my mind
Like you said, it’s probably the master cylinder or abs problem
@Motorcarnut would it possibly be the master with those exact same symptoms? thanks for your time
Yes
Thanks so much. My mechanic has changed the caliper three times and the master cylinder. Still dragging. Stranded on vacation. Im going to buy a tool set and a line some pads to get back home. I feel like he's cashing me out. Supposed to be a reputable business in town . I'm thinking not. I suppose we could just hope they're idiots but I doubt it🤣
I bet that's it if the caliper is new. Good luck and be safe. Brakes can fade very fast from brake fluid boiling and you'll lose brakes. You'll only have to bleed that side as long as you don't make the brake reservoir go below the min line.
@@Motorcarnut We've had 2 new calipers, 1 new master cylinder, and 3 new brake lines. Still doesn't work. Tight, smokes, and stinks! Almost caught fire trying to get home. I'm really at my wit's end. The ABS light never came on and don't know if that's the problem. I'm an ill 65 r old great-grandmother with a 27 yr old special needs adult son and I haven't had a car since August 2022. I keep paying ppl to fix it and replace things and it still is stuck. The emergency brake doesn't work either. It's like mush. SOmeone unhooked the brake on the one (back drive side) that doesn't work. I'm totally afraid to drive it like that! I have no money to buy another car. I was quoted $1500 to 3k for a new ABS and just the part, not labor. I believe I'm being ripped off and I'm afraid to take my car anywhere now.
@Steff Matolcsy did you ever get it fixed?
Great, so just saying if the break booster is bad that makes all the calipers not working right or can be one or two calipers?
Brake booster won't make brakes drag, it just "boosts" the pressure it takes when applying the brakes. It can the the master cylinder or ABS system
You’re good you.
Thank you!
Do you have a video of the rear brake hoses on a 09-14 ford f 150?
At the moment I don’t, sorry.
Very high chance that brake line might be my problem. 1989 S10 passenger front rubbing and getting hot. I believe the caliper is original. Pads and rotors replaced about 15yrs ago. Rotor is still good. About 209k miles.
Definitely time to change it either way for safety
One things for sure, I recently bled my front brakes on the bike and there was a bunch of crud that came out. Nasty stuff accumulates in there and it was acting the same way, not only the caliper sticking but the lever felt weird. I did not crack the bleeder to see if it would spurt, i only instinctively began bleeding the brakes and now they are much better. So im guessing if i use one of those pinching clamps on that rubber line you have there then it will cause it to deteriorate more? You know some of those have an inner plastic sleeve, the rubber is just there for flexibility and protection.
It’s possible, I would just replace the brake line for peace of mind.
My two front brakes are sticking and the pressure only helps a little, I also have a spungy peddle and to the best of my knowledge no air in my system could it be both the master cylinder and the hose?
Not really both failing at the same time. I would bet it’s the hoses.
excellent video. I have a Prius 2005. I avoided a car accident and ran the left side and wheel into a deep pot hole. end up with 3 lights A) red brake B) ABS yellow C) VSC yellow... lost partial almost no brakes but no HYD leak.lost the inner brake pad and caliper piston kick out of its assembly on the left side. I change the left caliper & bracket and ,rotor on both side and brake pads on both side.
attempt a reset theses msgs but could not do it. Now the right caliper seems to grab the rotor as well and right wheel temperature on the rotor is much higher than the left it's fell like caliper stuck.but not sure if it is identical to the left side problem. Do you think it maybe the caliper or air stuck in the HYD line or ABS fail light that cause this..... Thanks for your feedback.
Sounds like it’s the abs system giving those problems
I had this problem. The repair shop, during an inquiry, suggested replacing the brake line hose. Did that and that was the problem.
Great! Thanks for sharing your experience.
Is it common for both front brakes to lock up? Both have brand new calipers but they are both locking up and glowing cherry red. It’s 2012 Chevy hd and I recently replaced the steering box which took a bit to bleed the power steering which is intertwined with the brake booster so maby that’s causing it? The ABS light is on too. Is it common both the passenger and drivers side hoses to do this at the same time?
No it’s not. Can be something wrong with the abs system or master cylinder.
What about those clips that hold the line in place where the fittings are. I found it was almost impossible to get the new clips in with a new line. How necessary are they to be in place?
They are very necessary. You don't want anything jiggling around.
did a 4 piston brembo swap on charger rt, got rotors resurfaced and new pads, brakes work but the rear driver caliper pistons not retracting all the way causing drag, no issue with the other calipers. Any suggestions?
Could be a rubber hose problem, the master cylinder or the abs system. Did it have that problem before you installed the Brembos?
My right rear won’t release its brake either. It’s got new lines and has happened with two new calipers
When I take it off the caliper there is dripping brake fluid should I still replace?
There should not be any fluid leaking ever! Also master cylinder give be the problem as well.
My truck have a problem from brake got frozen some times new calipers and new hoses, my fluid no return to the master cylinder, What can be? No front abs system just rear.
Could be the master cylinder
I have a RWD truck with calipers in the front and drum brakes in the rear.
I’ve just replaced both front calipers. Both front calipers seems to start dragging after a while of driving before and after replacing the calipers. Including the fact the brake pedal starts to get harder and more “stronger” as the brakes start to “drag”.
I’ve done a brake fluid flush via bleeding rear to front. I’ve had it to where the fluid inside the reservoir was new, but eventually it started to get darker and have tiny black contaminants.(note: fluid flush was before the caliper replacement)
So where I’m at now, is concluding between my soft brake hose or my brake master.
My brake master is fairly new, about 1 year since I’ve replaced it.
My brake booster is fairly new as well, 1-2 years since it was replaced.
Any additional information/second opinions will be helpful.
Don’t know how old truck is but I would replace the front brake hoses and re bleed and see if that fixes the problem. I would think it’s the master cylinder but you already changed it. Also abs system could be at fault, again don’t know the year make or model.
@@MotorcarnutThanks for the reply.
It’s a 1994 Toyota pickup 2wd standard cab.
Just Today, I’ve bleed the brakes from all 4 bleeders screws to flush out any old fluid in the lines. The fluid in the master is fresh and new, but there’s still tiny contaminates that sit in the bottom of the reservoir.
I’m going to be changing the brake hoses to see if it helps fix the problem.
Thanks
No problem, let me know how you make out
thank you sir that is very helpful info I have the same situation sticking my front break from left side brought my truck at the mechanic to replace my break pads I fix this stuff normally i do mechanic myself problem is I don't have time to replace it so busy at work so I end up bringing to the mechanic they change the pads the next day I heard loud squeaking in the front I brought it back and they told me that I have a bad caliper because those are plastic piston so they will stick its a ford f150 EB so I end up to buy a new whole assembly two new caliper now in a few days I was wondering I can smell a burning break pads I try to touch the caliper it burns my finger but the rest of them its alright I can even touch them and I heard its like a popcorn that is pooping sound so that is very hot I try to pump and bleed to make it sure will turn but still not turning thanks for the video well explained.
No problem, thanks for the feedback. Yes does sound like it’s locking up, don’t drive it like that you can lose the brakes and ruin the rotor and pads.
Yes still dragging and its so hot the caliper should not frozen because its brand new both front but except for the left front its stuck its hard to turn i cant turn it freely
I just had a collision where the master cylinder was pressed on by the fuse box, no noticeable damage to the exterior of the master cylinder but the brake lines were pushed over a little (not pinched).
My brake pedal is acting like the system is not getting enough vacuum, the pedal becomes stiff, BUT the brakes are EXTRA sensitive and do not fully disengage unless I come to a complete stop and force the pedal to the floor for a full range of motion of the pedal. If I'm in slow but moving traffic where I only partially brake, not coming to a complete stop, the brakes stick/drag and if I'm on the highway the truck starts shaking because it's like I'm riding the brakes and they're heating up so I have to pull onto the shoulder, stop completely and fully force the stiff pedal to the floor and release in order for the brakes to release.
The idiots at the dealer said it's not a result of the collision, just a coincidentally failed vacuum pump. They're idiots, the brakes work, TOO good, the OPPOSITE of what happens with low vacuum. but the pedal is stiff, the breaks are SUPER touchy.
What's the deal? Before I go play process of elimination, throwing random parts at the problem.
2017 Silverado, L86
Could be an ABS problem. Being the truck was in an accident regular trouble shooting over the internet is not going to work because who knows what got damaged. This has to be looked at in person, sorry
I caused the problem myself. I suspect many of you have as well. I didnt secure the caliper and just sat it on top of the rotor. It fell and the hose caught the full weight of the caliper. It didnt look worn or tore or cracked. The hose didnt leak. However it was damaged internally and that was my problem. I replaced the hose and fixed the issue.
Yep, that will do it
I had a 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera. Did the same thing. Got so hot it started to melt the wheel cover. Changed out the flexible lines and it was fixed. The lines collapsed on the inside.
Yes, it’s more common than most people think and easy overlooked.