I've been a mechanic for nearly 40 years you did a very good job for the conditions being on the ground not having a lift or specialty tools this is how most people would do it and your explanation was great next time get your woman to just film the whole thing..Carry on mate
@@anthonydefr makes it look easy. 😁 I'm In the process of changing my wife's steering rack along with the brake disc and pads. But I've now discovered that the caliper looks seized. A job I've never done before hence the reason I'm watching videos on this topic. Do I buy the calipers for around £90 or the repair kit for around £50+ 🤔 anyway I'll watch a few more cans and drink a few more videos 😂😂 this by the way was a great video 👍🏿
Was thinking the same - if your beautiful assistant could hold the camera for those tricky two hand tasks which are quite possibly essential parts of the story...
Haha this is by far the best comment I've ever found on RUclips.. I also totally agree. Can't remember how many times I've watched this video, laugh every time at that comment.
An alternative to crushing the flexible hose is to prop the brake pedal down which will close off the reservoir. You may need to remove the stop lamp fuse to prevent the brake lights from draining the battery.
@@twig3288 With an electric driver’s seat, it is easier to put pressure on the brake petal at the correct pressure (use a short piece of wood between seat and brake pedal to accomplish this). Removing the fuse is a great idea. Be sure sure to use a clear plastic hose on the brake fittings with the far end of the hose put into a clear plastic bottle with about 4 to 6 ounces of fresh brake fluid in it - this is so you can see any air bubbles as they are forced out of the brake line and will prevent air from being sucked back into the brake system before you close the fitting.
This is a well-explained and straightforward job of rebuilding a brake caliper. Gives me so much motivation to do my own brake job and save me some money. Thank you, Christopher.
This video is spot-on for a number of reasons. The ability to use this technique and fix a caliper that is broke when you are not at home and don't have access to a wide range of tools is amazing. This technique can save so much time and energy. Maybe in an ideal world the caliper could be taken off, but usually when your car breaks down it's never ideal. This also helps other car enthusiasts by looking at a problem slightly differently. Thank you for uploading and sharing with all of us.
DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS GUY, video is far from spot on, without a doubt, so I can not be sure if you guys use only rubber hose for brake lines in the UK or where you are but clamping a brake line will give you headaches until you figure out you have listened to someone who does not have a clue about what he is actually doing and now not only do you need how ever many break lines this guy just walked you right through destroying, but now you need to replace how ever many brake lines you destroyed following a person who sounds like he knows what he is talking about, which only makes it worse and that much worse, and then you can bleed the system again, all 4 calipers! . So I do not have any videos before some other rocket scientist wants to jump on me, but if you do not believe me by all means go for it follow the video and learn for yourself it is very very problematic and quite dangerous to crush the inner liner in your brake lines. YOU SHOULD REMOVE THIS VIDEO IMMEDIATELY BC YOU ARE PUTTING PEOPLE IN A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION NOT KNOING WHAT THR HECK YOU ARE DOING! So please let me know if I’m wrong and putting anyone in a potential life changing/ending accident, I would be as wrong as this guy if so. Why pretend you know what your doing, it’s amazing really!
I used to work as a technician on military fast jets and helicopters (with 3000 psi hydraulic systems). My last posting was as groundcrew on the Red Arrows. I maintained the brakes on all these aircraft. I then worked on Remotely Operated Vehicles (Underwater submarines which sent 5000 volts down to depths of over a mile underwater, in order to run a HPU to run hydraulic systems, which were then used to 'fly' the ROV around platforms & pipelines to carry out jobs on underwater oil & gas infrastructure. Working on the brake caliper of an old Ford Focus is not outside my capabilities. The proof of the pudding is in the eating as they say: this brake functioned perfectly after this job. When I sold the car 6 years later, it was put through an MOT inspection, which included braking efficiency tests, and it passed no problem. So clamping the hose the way I did it caused no damage to the hose. Mole grips can be be used to achieve different results. I could clamp my finger with a piece of card - like in this video - and it would cause no pain whatsoever. Or I could crush the bone to a mush with the same tool. Therefore clamping does not equal destruction. Cheers, Chris
If you do this at home, don’t forget to wipe the caliper pins clean and then coat them with the caliper grease supplied in the kit, or use a high temperature silicone grease. If you don’t clean the pins or if you use a petroleum-based grease, the brake heat will bake the grease(old or new) dry, and the calipers will stop moving when you press the brake pedal. When he put the new grommet in, he failed to clean and lube the caliper pins on camera. If he didn’t grease them up, that car will have brake problems on that wheel within a year or so. Also, broken brake hoses result in immediate and complete brake failure, and old brake hoses will fail after a couple of decades of regular use and exposure to rain and salt, or to desert heat. Inspect your hoses when doing a brake job. Lost a friend to a broken brake hose a few years ago, and he was a professional mechanic. The bolts that attach the caliper to the suspension should be tightened to factory specs using a torque wrench. Thanks for the informative video, and for sharing your tips on brake cylinder repair.
... good added info . Thanks . I'm kind of "iffy" on clamping my 2005 brake line hose when I do my caliper replace / brake job soon ,,, because being an older vehicle , I don't want to chance damaging the hose . Better yet ,, for piece of mind , I think I will replace the hoses . ( Also ,, Sorry for the loss of your friend ) .
Brilliant! I found my outer seal was rotten on my Juke when I was changing the pads and thought I'd have to spend £100 on a new caliper... The noise when driving was awful - I was sure the caliper was seized. Then stumbled upon this video! Bought a kit for £20 and BAM! Nice quiet, perfectly functioning brakes! Thanks Chris, saved me a bomb!
Getting the piston out simply via the brake pressure system is BRILLIANT, no bloody air compressor needed, and no piston shooting out like a 2 gauge shotgun slug...
you can do it with a foot pump, as not much pressure is needed. Imho, it is easier to disconnect the hose and work on a workbench sitting, with no rush. I would also use some special dot compatible brake lube as it is dirt cheap. A thin film of lube will definitely help the piston go in easier. Good calipers can be pressed with the thumbs without much force!
If you use a little of the red rubber grease around the channel the rubber seal goes into, it both allows the seal to slip into the channel easier and also seals it better from water ingress aswell.
You have done a very good job, simplifying as much as possible and avoiding expensive tools. (No compressor, no brake line pincher, no brake bleeder...). I am impressed. Only thing different for me is I call the stuff fluid, not oil, but whatever...
What an almost perfect demonstration! I enjoy your comprehensive explanation, your astounding method of bleeding and your thoughts about refurbishing instead of throwing things right away. It is a pity that beautiful Rossella does not appear in the video. Isn't dangerous to pinch the brake hose?
Only just stumbled upon your channel by mistake. What have I been missing. A good old fashioned common sense video. A pleasure to watch. I've subscribed so keep 'em coming.
Probably the best brake job video I have seen. I am having seized piston issues on a 9 year old car. I might just so what you did!! Thanks for the help!!! From a fellow Brit living across the pond...
Very nice tutorial! :) Though it is a lot easier to just unbolt the brake hose and have fun with the caliper in an open space. It is very easy to prevent the hose from dripping: you just need to depress the brake pedal and hold it in that position, e.g. place a wood log between the brake pedal and the steering wheel.
@Anthony. He maybe just skipped saying pump the piston out first but there are so many that think air pressure works that I thought he is just another one that doesn't know the value of hydraulics. Air pressure fails unless the piston is almost completely free to move.👍
Great idea to prop the brake pedal. I use a stick or something between the seat and the brake pedal. The seat will adjust so it really makes it easy to hold pressure. 🫤
Dude you ARE the man! No fancy bottle to collect brake fluid, and working with broken gloves. I followed your vid and was able to quickly rebuild instead of replacing a caliper. - from a viewer across the pond
Great video. The only difference with calipers that have two pistons is to make sure one clamped or blocked partially so they both move together, or do one most the way and block it and continue so the other rises to match it. The fact you can just replace the piston and seals instead of the whole caliper was a welcome addition when I had to do mine recently. Got my set for $11! Sure beat $140 for two calipers. Thanks for the video!
Perfect for us DIY retired people who live in an apartment without a garage and NEVER allowed to leave a vehicle on jack stands unattended in our parking space - EVER. Thank you for this Random Chris. I subscribed (and I rarely do that). Also, remanufactured calipers, all brands, have such terrible review ratings, I won't trust them, and new calipers are incredibly expensive.
Very handy video, although once the piston is out I'd prefer to change the seals on the bench as it's fiddly enough without having to do it in the wheel arch!
Great video Chris. Kudos for showing the challenges faced in the process. All too often in other vids the bolts are all pre-loosened and the spirit of the repair is lost. One Brembo caliper on my old BMW moto is dragging and I’m about to have a go at it. Thanks again.
I have used your method to get the piston out but then removed the caliper from the vehicle to be able to clean the caliper more easily. Doing it your way I would recommend putting a plastic bag over the rotor to save time in the clean up process. Good vid.
Nice job! I am doing the same thing with the brake calipers of my 1998 Honda CR-V (oh yes, 19 years old). Interesting the explanation of the function of the square profile seal. I wasn't planning to replace the pistons but now that I've seen yours I'm about to change my mind...Keep it up.
The car in the video is a 1999 model (Ford Focus) so there's not much between us. :-) The pistons are cheap and if they are pitted then it won't be long before they seize again, so it's definitely worth replacing them in that case. Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting. Cheers, Chris 👍
When you place the new piston on the ground, it would be a good idea to place it on a clean rag to avoid getting dirt or debris from the dirty ground, other that I think your video is a winner, Thanks
The perfect amount of info! Thanks. I think with the brake line pinched (great trick btw), I might just pull the entire caliper and clean the whole thing.
Awesome, awesome, awesome!! Love this video, thanks for taking the time to put it together. I especially appreciate the extra explanations. Made me realize it's super easy for me to fix my leaking caliper. Was a piece of cake.
Great video. My lady has a ford focus. The exact caliper and set up. I will be tackling this in the next couple days. FYI for the know-it-all youtube mechanics, the U.S. Haynes manual shows clamping brake hose for overhauling front brake calipers.
Hi there, thank you! By the way, I saw from your profile that you like sailing channels. My wife (AKA 'beautiful assistant in this video!) have a sailing RUclips Channel: ruclips.net/user/sailingbritaly Check it out, subscribe if you like it, and if you tell your sailor friends about it too that would be a great help! Good luck with the brake job, I'm sure you will find it easy. Cheers, Chris 👍
Excellent video. I have been watching multiple videos to understand what returns the piston back to its original position when the pedal is released and I’ve finally found out through your video. Grateful.
Hi Chris, Thank you for the video, excellent content, well presented, clear and simple. A couple of suggestions: One. Remove the disk so it doesn’t get covered in brake fluid and oil et cetera. Two. Protect your hands as much as you can. Brake fluid is nasty corrosive stuff, it will damage your skin and paint. Three. Along the same lines to protect against brake fluid going everywhere, run a small plastic tube from the brake bleeding nipple into a suitable container. Cheers, Mark
Thank you sir! I have one piston to replace on my front dual caliper system. I will use your trick by retaining the good one to pop out by using the new one! Hope it will work. Thank you so much for your good explanations!
Thanks Joel - I believe we are all capable of pretty much any job if we put our mind to it. Hopefully my videos will help encourage someone else to get stuck into something. Cheers, Chris 👍
Great video, very useful for us DIYrs the difference is that you show us how to use common tools and not fancy ones. I need to do this in my right rear caliper but the difference would be that the piston is the spinning one, do you know if the procedure is the same? THANKS A LOT.
I don't know if you're using a phone or a camera, but I use my camera with a tripod always on it for youtube videos. I can move it around for most of the stuff, and then just sit it down and aim it when I need two hands.
I would just remove the caliper altogether and bring it to my work bench where it will be much easier to re-assemble. All you have to do is remove one additional bolt on the hose connection. In any event, it is good to see this procedure done as it very effectively conveys how easy this job is, and rather than discarding a perfectly good part just repair it (which is something few mechanics ever do anymore, though I suppose with the labour rates they charge the job may be as cheap overall if they just pop in a new caliper, especially if they source a cheaper generic part). Thank goodness for RUclips, which has taken the place of fathers who used to teach their sons the manly arts. Maybe this new generation of young men will acquire practical skills that they can pass on, and spend quality time with their kids to boot.
@Ducky1521 not all fathers are absent. Taught my daughter a lot about cars, enjoy working and teaching her. Now her friends all go to her for car issues. She also doesn't get taken by dishonest shops. Also she helps her friends the same. Save one friend $300 for work she didn't need
After playing around with changing the dust cover on a spiral piston tonight, I agree with removing the caliper. I dropped the piston a few times on the ground and did my best to clean it off each time. Still, I probably introduced dirt into the system. A clean workbench would have been a better workspace.
To be honest i work in the motor trade, and the video is very good, somethings i would personally do different but i do wonder how long was spent on the job, by the time you have bought the replacement parts and spent the time doing it, how much money is saved.. and seized calipers normally go hand in hand with warped / badly worn discs and or worn brake pads driving the cost up, but a great video and if it gives you the confidence to do this sort of repair yourself awesome, but please bear in mind a new caliper takes minutes to fit, has new sliders, and new bleed nipple (which wont snap as you try to undo it) and after that all you need is a brake bleed. So in review awesome video and i tip my hat, but like alot of parts on a car some time a new part is or can be better value than spending the time repairing or replacing the components. Oh and buy a brake hose clamp, a few quid from halfords, cardboard and mole grips will end up costing you a new hose (more money than a re-usable clamp) and the drama of finding the fault, replacing the part and bleeding it afterwards
I agree that it's easier to work on a bench. The assumption here is that the caliper bound because the piston's surface beyond the square cut seal became pitted. The piston "binds" because the pitted surface won't slide inward. Once you push the piston half way out, you can clamp off the brake line and reduce the mess of hydraulic fluid by more than half. Once the caliper is removed, the piston can be pulled out the rest of the way. The other failure mode is from old water saturated hydraulic fluid, which makes both the cylinder bore and the piston rust from the inside behind the square cut seal. This prevents the piston from moving outward , chews up the square cut seal and then contaminates the outer piston end. In this situation you may not be able to push the piston out with hydraulic pressure, and if so, the caliper body may not be salvageable. btw Unless you buy a new caliper, you'll get charged a "core charge" that can be more than half the cost of the re-manufactured unit. Most cores get re-manufactured, not discarded.
Good video. Especially showing how to pump the piston out with the brake pedal. I see below some actually would rather blow it out with air because of "the mess". Their mess is on the bench especially when air won't get their stuck pistons out. I never use air because pumping the piston out works every time.
Used this guide yesterday to do mine on my BMW E90 Did end up taking the caliper off completely Changed all the piston and the seal that goes over the caliper was so tight I couldn’t even get it to sit perfectly, this was from a repair kit Put the genuine back on and fitted perfectly, now need to order 2 new genuine seals
Very good video. I just have one tip for blocking the brake fluid from leaking out. If you use a "one man brake light testing device" aka an umbrella, you can block the pedal just a very small bit from fully released. The pipe and hose will still be drained, but the reservoir will be blocked from the wheel circuits. Got this tip from a friend. Although i have worked on cars for decades, i suffer from severe Citroënitis, so all my brake experience comes from cars with real oil (LHM) in the brakes. And of course, when i started living in sin with other brands, i was immediately punished with sticking brakes and seized calipers. The Citroën system is actually very good, supersimple to bleed and due to the oil instead of fluid, they never seize inside. If someone is interrested, the Citroëns up to 2000 looks and works exactly like any other brake system. The oily bit is the difference. And because you have a simple brake valve instead of main cylinder it´s rather incapable of trouble. And the bleeding are a breeze too. Start the engine, suspension in highest position (for max pressure in the rear), activate your umbrella or assistant for pushing the pedal, and then walk around, opening the bleed screws one after one. No pumping, the car already has a hydraulic pump. Open bleeder=continous stream. And you have a large hydraulic reservoir, so you can bleed all day long if you like or at least use a hose and get free rust protection and air free brakes in one go. Thanks again for a good video.
Great video, just what I'm lookin' for. :) I love refurbish, rather than change. One thing: you should wear better quality gloves, brake fluid is poison!
Hi there, thank you for the comment. Refurbishing is great for your wallet and the environment too. :-) Good point about the gloves - those were really bad quality. Barrier cream is another good option. Cheers, Chris 👍
From across the pond Marietta, GA: Very simple and practical techniques to remove/install piston. I also liked bleeding the caliper while not mounted. The bleed port can be positioned at the top to ensure all of the air is out of the cylinder.
hello Lewis, what matters most is grasping the idea. Accents vary from place to place; we do see that even within the UK. A world has become a global village, we should try to bear with whatever accent we encounter. Cheers
Excellent, done this with a motorbike caliper years ago but need to look into a sticky car caliper soon, just refreshing my memory. Been putting it off as the piston has some visible surface rust and I don't know how bad it's going to be. Really didn't want to have to pull the entire piston out, I don't have a good working space but with your tip about clamping the hose, it might not be so bad to do that after all. Cheers from NZ!
One should refill the master brake reservoir with brake fluid at all times to avoid putting air to the other brake lines and having to bleed all of them later.
Cracking video. I have exactly the same issue on my Crossfire, didn't have the guts to take the piston all the way out, so had to pull it out an inch or so and just give it a good clean and hope for the best. Next time the piston is coming out for a proper job.
Good job. Simple explanation. Well done 👍 One comment though. Give the disk a clean with break cleaner before refitting the caliper. Stops any oil contamination of the pads.
I often wondered why the piston draws back a hair when the foot comes off, it didn't occur to me it was a result of the pressure induced twist of that square cut seal. What an elegant solution!
Hi there, it's great to see you found my other channel! :-) I love the fact that someone who is as practical and knowledgeable as you is happy to voluntarily point out that you learned something new from a video like this. If more people shared this attitude we would all learn a lot more from each other. I doff my hat to you for being such a good example to others. Cheers, Chris
Hose clamp and a plastic wrap will keep the fluid from leaking out. Pinching the hose is the same as bending 180 degrees and pressing the folded together. Gambling with your life, be smart.
You saved me chris. I am a naive mechanic, accidentally popped the piston. After watching this i could easily reseat the piston back to its normal slot.
I would have clamped the brake line literally as soon as fluid started coming out, because as soon as fluid starts coming out, aren't you risk getting air into the system?
I am a motor engineer, fully trained, yes this video is good, but you should have done a better job of cleaning off the Disc first, with any spirt based cleaner, and you should of attached a small length 15 inches or so of rubber tube to the bleed nipple and the other end to a small glass jar with a hole in the metal top to allow the tube to be put through. You then can bleed the system and save the fluid for a later top up. But let the old system fluid stand (after 24Hour wait) After the first beed, that fluid has air in it, by waiting 24 hours the air will come out and it can be reused.
I am an ex aircraft technician, fully trained, and spent 8 years maintaining hydraulic systems on board fighter jets and helicopters (including their braking systems). As this is my car, I was not concerned about cleaning the disks as I burnt off the fluid during a rigorous test drive after the completion of the job. I have to disagree with your suggestion about re-using brake fluid. Almost all automotive brake fluids (apart from DOT 5) are hygroscopic and therefore absorb moisture from the atmosphere. During the 24 hours you let the fluid stand to let the air work out, moisture is being absorbed into the oil, which upon reintroduction to your braking system will cause corrosion. Brake fluid should not be re-used and should actually be replaced far more often than it is on most cars (my own included). Cheers, Chris
I've never even considered trying to reuse brake fluid; even thinking twice about using unused brake fluid from a previously opened bottle, though I have. I'm just living on the edge that way.
Ya they would, engineers just look for problems to solve and really have little clue of anything REAL WORLD... As said, you be a fool to reuse brake fluid, but this dude confuses dot 3 4 5.1 with dot 5. Dot 5 is going to get air in it and it NEVER wants to come out (forget 24hours) but won't absorb water... 3 4 5.1 will like not even aerate, but will absorb water... 5 you need to be careful when pouring even... 3 4 5.1 nope 5 you can leave open for days (I would not) 3 4 5.1 it is junk if you leave it open for days
Hi there, I used a lint-free cloth to clean inside the cylinder. You could use a toothbrush if you like, then a wipe with a cloth to remove any particles. Cheers, Chris :-)
I would have bled the whole system just to be sure there is no air or contaminants in the system also changed gloves as they were covered in brake fluid.
Why would you want to rebuild a brake caliper on the car??? Not something I've ever considered in all my years in the motor trade, rather remove the unit, strip it, clean it and reassemble with new parts on a clean workbench.
Why did I want to rebuild a brake caliper on the car? The brake was seized and would not release. I fixed it very quickly on my driveway with minimum fuss and it cost me around 30 USD. You must work in a very particular garage... where I'm from the labour fees to pay a garage to remove a caliper, strip it, clean it, reassembe it with new parts and then refit it would not make any economical sense whatsoever - it would be cheaper to have a new caliper fitted. I had my car back on the road in less time than it would have taken me to mess around taking my car to a garage and have them fix it on their schedule (and at their prices). Cheers, Chris
One reason is that you don't want to disconnectthe brake line from the caliper. This is an option for the Rust belt folks. - Not sure I'd ever clamp on a brake line, that worries me. A brake line is a structured line not solid rubber.
I'm not sure I appreciate the term 'rust belt folks'... I know all about the internal structure of a brake line as I have worked on aircraft and robot hydraulic systems for just under 20 years. There is no problem with clamping brake lines, nothing will happen unless the brake line is so degraded / brittle that it is at risk of rupture from the expansion and contraction which it undergoes every time you apply the brakes... In which case, you should be glad to find this out whilst working on it, rather than have it fail whilst you are braking hard at high speed.
pretty sure "Rust belt" refers to the latitudes that have to deal with snow/salt Bro, hes not sayin you wear a shitstained belt LOLZ Deece video still! (that means it was good)
Since your calipers are floating calipers they need the guide pins to be lubricated so they can move back and forth. You would need to use a high temperature grease that will not harm the rubber but this way the caliper will Slide back and forth easily. Also it is a good idea to put some of the same grease on the outside of those rubber grommets so that when you replace them the next time they will come out very easily. Good video and thank you for sharing.
I'm going to do both front disc brakes at the same time this way. There is always that one cylinder that will work its way out before the other. I will use a block of wood to stop the first cylinder from coming all the way out to allow the other cylinder to start working its way out. This way, if I lose to much brake fluid and pressure or I don't want to clamp the hose on an older vehicle that needs all new fluid later, it wont stop me from working on the other caliper. Great video!
I've been a mechanic for nearly 40 years you did a very good job for the conditions being on the ground not having a lift or specialty tools this is how most people would do it and your explanation was great next time get your woman to just film the whole thing..Carry on mate
Cheers Fran 👍
Seems very easy
@@anthonydefr makes it look easy. 😁 I'm In the process of changing my wife's steering rack along with the brake disc and pads. But I've now discovered that the caliper looks seized. A job I've never done before hence the reason I'm watching videos on this topic. Do I buy the calipers for around £90 or the repair kit for around £50+ 🤔 anyway I'll watch a few more cans and drink a few more videos 😂😂 this by the way was a great video 👍🏿
Was thinking the same - if your beautiful assistant could hold the camera for those tricky two hand tasks which are quite possibly essential parts of the story...
can u just replace the dust boot without removing the piston?
One handed brake caliper rebuild! Bloody Legend.
maverickwest81 Cheers mate 👍
Haha this is by far the best comment I've ever found on RUclips.. I also totally agree.
Can't remember how many times I've watched this video, laugh every time at that comment.
@@christopher_barrhiit uo hi hi hi hi
An alternative to crushing the flexible hose is to prop the brake pedal down which will close off the reservoir. You may need to remove the stop lamp fuse to prevent the brake lights from draining the battery.
👍
@@twig3288 With an electric driver’s seat, it is easier to put pressure on the brake petal at the correct pressure (use a short piece of wood between seat and brake pedal to accomplish this). Removing the fuse is a great idea. Be sure sure to use a clear plastic hose on the brake fittings with the far end of the hose put into a clear plastic bottle with about 4 to 6 ounces of fresh brake fluid in it - this is so you can see any air bubbles as they are forced out of the brake line and will prevent air from being sucked back into the brake system before you close the fitting.
This is a well-explained and straightforward job of rebuilding a brake caliper. Gives me so much motivation to do my own brake job and save me some money. Thank you, Christopher.
My pleasure! 👍
This is the first video I’ve seen without using an airline to get piston out, thank you!
My pleasure! 👍
This video is spot-on for a number of reasons. The ability to use this technique and fix a caliper that is broke when you are not at home and don't have access to a wide range of tools is amazing. This technique can save so much time and energy. Maybe in an ideal world the caliper could be taken off, but usually when your car breaks down it's never ideal. This also helps other car enthusiasts by looking at a problem slightly differently.
Thank you for uploading and sharing with all of us.
Thank you! Chris 👍
DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS GUY, video is far from spot on, without a doubt, so I can not be sure if you guys use only rubber hose for brake lines in the UK or where you are but clamping a brake line will give you headaches until you figure out you have listened to someone who does not have a clue about what he is actually doing and now not only do you need how ever many break lines this guy just walked you right through destroying, but now you need to replace how ever many brake lines you destroyed following a person who sounds like he knows what he is talking about, which only makes it worse and that much worse, and then you can bleed the system again, all 4 calipers! . So I do not have any videos before some other rocket scientist wants to jump on me, but if you do not believe me by all means go for it follow the video and learn for yourself it is very very problematic and quite dangerous to crush the inner liner in your brake lines. YOU SHOULD REMOVE THIS VIDEO IMMEDIATELY BC YOU ARE PUTTING PEOPLE IN A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION NOT KNOING WHAT THR HECK YOU ARE DOING! So please let me know if I’m wrong and putting anyone in a potential life changing/ending accident, I would be as wrong as this guy if so. Why pretend you know what your doing, it’s amazing really!
8:14 Respekte për këta teknik që na ndihmojnë për difektet e frenave
I used to work as a technician on military fast jets and helicopters (with 3000 psi hydraulic systems). My last posting was as groundcrew on the Red Arrows. I maintained the brakes on all these aircraft.
I then worked on Remotely Operated Vehicles (Underwater submarines which sent 5000 volts down to depths of over a mile underwater, in order to run a HPU to run hydraulic systems, which were then used to 'fly' the ROV around platforms & pipelines to carry out jobs on underwater oil & gas infrastructure.
Working on the brake caliper of an old Ford Focus is not outside my capabilities.
The proof of the pudding is in the eating as they say: this brake functioned perfectly after this job. When I sold the car 6 years later, it was put through an MOT inspection, which included braking efficiency tests, and it passed no problem.
So clamping the hose the way I did it caused no damage to the hose.
Mole grips can be be used to achieve different results. I could clamp my finger with a piece of card - like in this video - and it would cause no pain whatsoever. Or I could crush the bone to a mush with the same tool.
Therefore clamping does not equal destruction.
Cheers,
Chris
If you do this at home, don’t forget to wipe the caliper pins clean and then coat them with the caliper grease supplied in the kit, or use a high temperature silicone grease. If you don’t clean the pins or if you use a petroleum-based grease, the brake heat will bake the grease(old or new) dry, and the calipers will stop moving when you press the brake pedal. When he put the new grommet in, he failed to clean and lube the caliper pins on camera. If he didn’t grease them up, that car will have brake problems on that wheel within a year or so. Also, broken brake hoses result in immediate and complete brake failure, and old brake hoses will fail after a couple of decades of regular use and exposure to rain and salt, or to desert heat. Inspect your hoses when doing a brake job. Lost a friend to a broken brake hose a few years ago, and he was a professional mechanic. The bolts that attach the caliper to the suspension should be tightened to factory specs using a torque wrench.
Thanks for the informative video, and for sharing your tips on brake cylinder repair.
... good added info . Thanks .
I'm kind of "iffy" on clamping
my 2005 brake line hose when I do my caliper replace / brake job soon ,,, because being an older vehicle , I don't want to chance damaging the hose . Better yet ,, for piece of mind , I think I will replace the hoses .
( Also ,, Sorry for the loss of your friend ) .
Power steering 1999 model Saab were to locate power steering pump
THANKS
Lol overkill
Thanks for info. May I ask if there are many brake hoses or only one hose per wheel? Thanks
Brilliant! I found my outer seal was rotten on my Juke when I was changing the pads and thought I'd have to spend £100 on a new caliper... The noise when driving was awful - I was sure the caliper was seized. Then stumbled upon this video! Bought a kit for £20 and BAM! Nice quiet, perfectly functioning brakes! Thanks Chris, saved me a bomb!
My pleasure mate, subscribe for more helpful videos on random subjects! Chris 👍
Getting the piston out simply via the brake pressure system is BRILLIANT, no bloody air compressor needed, and no piston shooting out like a 2 gauge shotgun slug...
Thank you Sandy - I like simplicity and doing it this way you don't even have to disconnect the brake line... :-) Cheers, Chris 👍
you can do it with a foot pump, as not much pressure is needed.
Imho, it is easier to disconnect the hose and work on a workbench sitting, with no rush. I would also use some special dot compatible brake lube as it is dirt cheap. A thin film of lube will definitely help the piston go in easier. Good calipers can be pressed with the thumbs without much force!
Depends on the vehicle.
As long as you only have one piston per caliper.
Sandy Grungerson
I've made a habit of replacing all the rubber brake hoses when you rebuild or put new calipers on .
NICE VIDEO !!
If overheated & broken :) And if still alive :D
If you use a little of the red rubber grease around the channel the rubber seal goes into, it both allows the seal to slip into the channel easier and also seals it better from water ingress aswell.
Excellent video, instructions, lighting, etc (from usa). very helpful. Too many repair shops over here ripping people off with parts and labor!!!
You have done a very good job, simplifying as much as possible and avoiding expensive tools. (No compressor, no brake line pincher, no brake bleeder...). I am impressed. Only thing different for me is I call the stuff fluid, not oil, but whatever...
EXCELLENT AND PROF WORK , THANKS A MILLION CHRIS. I LEARNED WITH YOU HOW TO BE INDEPANDENT
His
What an almost perfect demonstration! I enjoy your comprehensive explanation, your astounding method of bleeding and your thoughts about refurbishing instead of throwing things right away. It is a pity that beautiful Rossella does not appear in the video. Isn't dangerous to pinch the brake hose?
Thanks! I have been delaying this job for a few months. After watching you do it, I see how simple and unscary it is. I'll tackle it this weekend.
Nice one Steve, happy fixing! Cheers, Chris 👍
Only just stumbled upon your channel by mistake. What have I been missing. A good old fashioned common sense video. A pleasure to watch. I've subscribed so keep 'em coming.
Wow ! I love it! Clear and simple. I appreciate the part when you remove the piston with the oil pressure. BRILLANT !
Thank you Richard :-)
Probably the best brake job video I have seen. I am having seized piston issues on a 9 year old car. I might just so what you did!! Thanks for the help!!! From a fellow Brit living across the pond...
Very nice tutorial! :) Though it is a lot easier to just unbolt the brake hose and have fun with the caliper in an open space. It is very easy to prevent the hose from dripping: you just need to depress the brake pedal and hold it in that position, e.g. place a wood log between the brake pedal and the steering wheel.
It is not easier in an "open place" when the piston is stuck and air pressure can't get it out at all. Hydraulics gets the piston out every time. 😊
@@bottmar1 m.mmml
@@bottmar1 I think he means unbolting the brake line after the piston has been pushed out then working on the caliper.
@Anthony. He maybe just skipped saying pump the piston out first but there are so many that think air pressure works that I thought he is just another one that doesn't know the value of hydraulics. Air pressure fails unless the piston is almost completely free to move.👍
Great idea to prop the brake pedal. I use a stick or something between the seat and the brake pedal. The seat will adjust so it really makes it easy to hold pressure.
🫤
Dude you ARE the man! No fancy bottle to collect brake fluid, and working with broken gloves. I followed your vid and was able to quickly rebuild instead of replacing a caliper. - from a viewer across the pond
Good on you mate, we’ll done! Subscribe for more helpful videos on random subjects... Cheers, Chris 👍
Great video. The only difference with calipers that have two pistons is to make sure one clamped or blocked partially so they both move together, or do one most the way and block it and continue so the other rises to match it. The fact you can just replace the piston and seals instead of the whole caliper was a welcome addition when I had to do mine recently. Got my set for $11! Sure beat $140 for two calipers. Thanks for the video!
$11 is brilliant! Thanks for the feedback, Chris 👍
Perfect for us DIY retired people who live in an apartment without a garage and NEVER allowed to leave a vehicle on jack stands unattended in our parking space - EVER. Thank you for this Random Chris. I subscribed (and I rarely do that). Also, remanufactured calipers, all brands, have such terrible review ratings, I won't trust them, and new calipers are incredibly expensive.
I'm glad you found this useful. Welcome aboard sir! Cheers, Chris 👍
I used this technique to remove a stuck piston a few years ago but I had to start the engine to get the vacuum assist before it would budge.
Great video you saved me the time of removing the caliper off the car to do this job. Everyone else took the caliper off the car. Thanks a million.
Glad it helped! :-)
I 'm working on my 2007 chevy 1500 truck I like the way you make thing simple and save cost. Brilliant instructions thanks
Cheers Barry 👍
Great video, very clear and informative. Inspired me to pull out my seized 1992 Honda Civic which has been parked for 4 years. 👍
Very handy video, although once the piston is out I'd prefer to change the seals on the bench as it's fiddly enough without having to do it in the wheel arch!
Great video Chris. Kudos for showing the challenges faced in the process. All too often in other vids the bolts are all pre-loosened and the spirit of the repair is lost. One Brembo caliper on my old BMW moto is dragging and I’m about to have a go at it. Thanks again.
I have used your method to get the piston out but then removed the caliper from the vehicle to be able to clean the caliper more easily. Doing it your way I would recommend putting a plastic bag over the rotor to save time in the clean up process. Good vid.
An entire caliper rebuild, never disconnected the brake line, and never saw a drip of brake cleaner. Impressive! I learned something today lol
Nice job! I am doing the same thing with the brake calipers of my 1998 Honda CR-V (oh yes, 19 years old). Interesting the explanation of the function of the square profile seal. I wasn't planning to replace the pistons but now that I've seen yours I'm about to change my mind...Keep it up.
The car in the video is a 1999 model (Ford Focus) so there's not much between us. :-) The pistons are cheap and if they are pitted then it won't be long before they seize again, so it's definitely worth replacing them in that case. Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting. Cheers, Chris 👍
When you place the new piston on the ground, it would be a good idea to place it on a clean rag to avoid getting dirt or debris from the dirty ground, other that I think your video is a winner, Thanks
The perfect amount of info! Thanks. I think with the brake line pinched (great trick btw), I might just pull the entire caliper and clean the whole thing.
Excellent description of how the brake pressure is released. Thanks.
Awesome, awesome, awesome!! Love this video, thanks for taking the time to put it together. I especially appreciate the extra explanations. Made me realize it's super easy for me to fix my leaking caliper. Was a piece of cake.
accts4mjs My pleasure. 😊 Subscribe for more helpful videos on random subjects! Chris 👍
This is amazing. My brakes froze and jammed this winter in Montreal (at -20 degrees celsius). I'll try this if I need to replace my piston!
Go for it - it's an easy job and the parts are cheap! 👍
Christopher Barr - Random Chris Thanks for the reply! Did you order the kit or you went to you local car parts store?
Great video. My lady has a ford focus. The exact caliper and set up. I will be tackling this in the next couple days. FYI for the know-it-all youtube mechanics, the U.S. Haynes manual shows clamping brake hose for overhauling front brake calipers.
Hi there, thank you! By the way, I saw from your profile that you like sailing channels. My wife (AKA 'beautiful assistant in this video!) have a sailing RUclips Channel: ruclips.net/user/sailingbritaly Check it out, subscribe if you like it, and if you tell your sailor friends about it too that would be a great help! Good luck with the brake job, I'm sure you will find it easy. Cheers, Chris 👍
Excellent video. I have been watching multiple videos to understand what returns the piston back to its original position when the pedal is released and I’ve finally found out through your video. Grateful.
My pleasure 👍
That makes two of us
Hi Chris,
Thank you for the video, excellent content, well presented, clear and simple.
A couple of suggestions:
One. Remove the disk so it doesn’t get covered in brake fluid and oil et cetera.
Two. Protect your hands as much as you can. Brake fluid is nasty corrosive stuff, it will damage your skin and paint.
Three. Along the same lines to protect against brake fluid going everywhere, run a small plastic tube from the brake bleeding nipple into a suitable container.
Cheers,
Mark
Thank you sir! I have one piston to replace on my front dual caliper system. I will use your trick by retaining the good one to pop out by using the new one! Hope it will work. Thank you so much for your good explanations!
Awesome and informative video! Is there nothing you won't take on for DIY? Seriously, you make great vids for the Do-it-yourself crowd. Well done!
Thanks Joel - I believe we are all capable of pretty much any job if we put our mind to it. Hopefully my videos will help encourage someone else to get stuck into something. Cheers, Chris 👍
Great video, very useful for us DIYrs the difference is that you show us how to use common tools and not fancy ones. I need to do this in my right rear caliper but the difference would be that the piston is the spinning one, do you know if the procedure is the same?
THANKS A LOT.
Well done mate! Everything about this vid is excellent especially the fact it can be done without removing it from the vehicle. 👍
Cheers Greg 👍
I don't know if you're using a phone or a camera, but I use my camera with a tripod always on it for youtube videos. I can move it around for most of the stuff, and then just sit it down and aim it when I need two hands.
I would just remove the caliper altogether and bring it to my work bench where it will be much easier to re-assemble. All you have to do is remove one additional bolt on the hose connection. In any event, it is good to see this procedure done as it very effectively conveys how easy this job is, and rather than discarding a perfectly good part just repair it (which is something few mechanics ever do anymore, though I suppose with the labour rates they charge the job may be as cheap overall if they just pop in a new caliper, especially if they source a cheaper generic part). Thank goodness for RUclips, which has taken the place of fathers who used to teach their sons the manly arts. Maybe this new generation of young men will acquire practical skills that they can pass on, and spend quality time with their kids to boot.
Jack Rabbit ww
@Ducky1521 not all fathers are absent. Taught my daughter a lot about cars, enjoy working and teaching her. Now her friends all go to her for car issues. She also doesn't get taken by dishonest shops. Also she helps her friends the same. Save one friend $300 for work she didn't need
After playing around with changing the dust cover on a spiral piston tonight, I agree with removing the caliper. I dropped the piston a few times on the ground and did my best to clean it off each time. Still, I probably introduced dirt into the system. A clean workbench would have been a better workspace.
To be honest i work in the motor trade, and the video is very good, somethings i would personally do different but i do wonder how long was spent on the job, by the time you have bought the replacement parts and spent the time doing it, how much money is saved.. and seized calipers normally go hand in hand with warped / badly worn discs and or worn brake pads driving the cost up, but a great video and if it gives you the confidence to do this sort of repair yourself awesome, but please bear in mind a new caliper takes minutes to fit, has new sliders, and new bleed nipple (which wont snap as you try to undo it) and after that all you need is a brake bleed. So in review awesome video and i tip my hat, but like alot of parts on a car some time a new part is or can be better value than spending the time repairing or replacing the components. Oh and buy a brake hose clamp, a few quid from halfords, cardboard and mole grips will end up costing you a new hose (more money than a re-usable clamp) and the drama of finding the fault, replacing the part and bleeding it afterwards
I agree that it's easier to work on a bench.
The assumption here is that the caliper bound because the piston's surface beyond the square cut seal became pitted. The piston "binds" because the pitted surface won't slide inward. Once you push the piston half way out, you can clamp off the brake line and reduce the mess of hydraulic fluid by more than half. Once the caliper is removed, the piston can be pulled out the rest of the way.
The other failure mode is from old water saturated hydraulic fluid, which makes both the cylinder bore and the piston rust from the inside behind the square cut seal. This prevents the piston from moving outward , chews up the square cut seal and then contaminates the outer piston end. In this situation you may not be able to push the piston out with hydraulic pressure, and if so, the caliper body may not be salvageable.
btw Unless you buy a new caliper, you'll get charged a "core charge" that can be more than half the cost of the re-manufactured unit. Most cores get re-manufactured, not discarded.
What a great simple video, clearly explained and with a number of hints and tips to simplify the process. Awesome 👌
Thank you for watching & commenting Michael 👍
Wow! Excellent video and very clear instructions. Thanks.
My pleasure! 👍
You make it looks very easy
GOOD WORK, I'll try do the same
It is easy Rivas, happy fixing! 👍
Good video. Especially showing how to pump the piston out with the brake pedal. I see below some actually would rather blow it out with air because of "the mess". Their mess is on the bench especially when air won't get their stuck pistons out. I never use air because pumping the piston out works every time.
Great video. Clear and well described. Keep it up !
Used this guide yesterday to do mine on my BMW E90
Did end up taking the caliper off completely
Changed all the piston and the seal that goes over the caliper was so tight I couldn’t even get it to sit perfectly, this was from a repair kit
Put the genuine back on and fitted perfectly, now need to order 2 new genuine seals
brilliant. Always wondered how the piston retracts. great video
+Gary White Cheers Gary 👍
هليل
Same here Gary. After watching all the other brake videos, this is the only one that explained the piston retract. That made my day!
This is a very well explained video! And, if you don't want to do this you could buy remanufactured calipers for about half the cost of new ones.
best caliper video on yt.. rock-and-roll !
agreeeee
Can't tell you how much I appreciate this
Glad to hear that Jim, Chris 🙏
Brilliant presentation! Quite inspiring. Thanks for demystifying with sufficient details and a unique method
Very good video. I just have one tip for blocking the brake fluid from leaking out. If you use a "one man brake light testing device" aka an umbrella, you can block the pedal just a very small bit from fully released. The pipe and hose will still be drained, but the reservoir will be blocked from the wheel circuits. Got this tip from a friend. Although i have worked on cars for decades, i suffer from severe Citroënitis, so all my brake experience comes from cars with real oil (LHM) in the brakes. And of course, when i started living in sin with other brands, i was immediately punished with sticking brakes and seized calipers. The Citroën system is actually very good, supersimple to bleed and due to the oil instead of fluid, they never seize inside. If someone is interrested, the Citroëns up to 2000 looks and works exactly like any other brake system. The oily bit is the difference. And because you have a simple brake valve instead of main cylinder it´s rather incapable of trouble. And the bleeding are a breeze too. Start the engine, suspension in highest position (for max pressure in the rear), activate your umbrella or assistant for pushing the pedal, and then walk around, opening the bleed screws one after one. No pumping, the car already has a hydraulic pump. Open bleeder=continous stream. And you have a large hydraulic reservoir, so you can bleed all day long if you like or at least use a hose and get free rust protection and air free brakes in one go. Thanks again for a good video.
Great video, just what I'm lookin' for. :) I love refurbish, rather than change.
One thing: you should wear better quality gloves, brake fluid is poison!
Hi there, thank you for the comment. Refurbishing is great for your wallet and the environment too. :-) Good point about the gloves - those were really bad quality. Barrier cream is another good option. Cheers, Chris 👍
Nitril is better than vinyl and if possible thicker than 0,1 mm but not thicker than 0,2 mm
From across the pond Marietta, GA: Very simple and practical techniques to remove/install piston. I also liked bleeding the caliper while not mounted. The bleed port can be positioned at the top to ensure all of the air is out of the cylinder.
Thank you 👍
Fantastic video good instructions and nice to see a uk one instead of a US one. Nice job fella
Cheers Tyler 👍
What's wrong with a US one lol
hello Lewis, what matters most is grasping the idea. Accents vary from place to place; we do see that even within the UK. A world has become a global village, we should try to bear with whatever accent we encounter. Cheers
Excellent, done this with a motorbike caliper years ago but need to look into a sticky car caliper soon, just refreshing my memory.
Been putting it off as the piston has some visible surface rust and I don't know how bad it's going to be. Really didn't want to have to pull the entire piston out, I don't have a good working space but with your tip about clamping the hose, it might not be so bad to do that after all. Cheers from NZ!
One should refill the master brake reservoir with brake fluid at all times to avoid putting air to the other brake lines and having to bleed all of them later.
Cracking video. I have exactly the same issue on my Crossfire, didn't have the guts to take the piston all the way out, so had to pull it out an inch or so and just give it a good clean and hope for the best. Next time the piston is coming out for a proper job.
Gotta love putin on a fresh pair of gloves to keep ur hands clean and 10min into the job and all the fingers rip lol and u just take them off
Everytime
THE BEST rebuild on the the car! Thank you brother!
Nice job dude. Loving this from Virginia US!
Cheers 👍
Good job. Simple explanation. Well done 👍
One comment though. Give the disk a clean with break cleaner before refitting the caliper. Stops any oil contamination of the pads.
Thank you from the U.S.
My pleasure Emilio, happy fixing!
Definitely a huge thank you from the U.S. , this was literraly a god send video.
Very impressed with your clarity and attention to detail in your videos. Thank you.
Fantastic video, informative, well edited, and overall great. Thanks.
Thank you Tom! Cheers, Chris 👍
Fantastic tutorial mate! Especially when you said "Gromit"
Respect from Canada
Thanks for this. Don't have a compressor, so that system works fine.
My pleasure Nammy 👍
I often wondered why the piston draws back a hair when the foot comes off, it didn't occur to me it was a result of the pressure induced twist of that square cut seal. What an elegant solution!
Hi there, it's great to see you found my other channel! :-) I love the fact that someone who is as practical and knowledgeable as you is happy to voluntarily point out that you learned something new from a video like this. If more people shared this attitude we would all learn a lot more from each other. I doff my hat to you for being such a good example to others. Cheers, Chris
Thank you Chris for that really useful video and your British accent is just amazing !
My pleasure - I like to think I'm helping people out so it's nice to have comments confirming that. Cheers mate! 👍
New Zealand! Good job!
Cheers Max! 👍
Hose clamp and a plastic wrap will keep the fluid from leaking out. Pinching the hose is the same as bending 180 degrees and pressing the folded together. Gambling with your life, be smart.
You saved me chris. I am a naive mechanic, accidentally popped the piston. After watching this i could easily reseat the piston back to its normal slot.
I'm very glad this helped! 👍
great job thank you for he information i wa about to spend 1000 for buying anew calliper thank you for giving us info
You are welcome Srinivas. Happy fixing! Cheers, Chris 👍
I hope that's not pounds !? Bloody elll
I got a tayota Tacoma stuck piston and now i learn how to pop out the cylinder for clean up thanks good job on yours
I would have clamped the brake line literally as soon as fluid started coming out, because as soon as fluid starts coming out, aren't you risk getting air into the system?
It's no big deal you can just bleed it anyway
Doesnt matter, you will get air anyway in your system
First time I've seen this done it's a lot easier than i thought. Well done.
Cheers mate
The Blake's have bred. OK, there should be some little Blakes being born in a few months.
Excellent video mate. really couldn't have asked for a better explanation and instructoins. Thanks.
Don't forget to lube the sliding parts.
Am not a mechanic but you bro a great teacher.. this video is the perfect solution to My car stacking break problem.. Thumb up brother.👍🙏
Cheers James 👍
I am a motor engineer, fully trained, yes this video is good, but you should have done a better job of cleaning off the Disc first, with any spirt based cleaner, and you should of attached a small length 15 inches or so of rubber tube to the bleed nipple and the other end to a small glass jar with a hole in the metal top to allow the tube to be put through. You then can bleed the system and save the fluid for a later top up. But let the old system fluid stand (after 24Hour wait) After the first beed, that fluid has air in it, by waiting 24 hours the air will come out and it can be reused.
I am an ex aircraft technician, fully trained, and spent 8 years maintaining hydraulic systems on board fighter jets and helicopters (including their braking systems). As this is my car, I was not concerned about cleaning the disks as I burnt off the fluid during a rigorous test drive after the completion of the job. I have to disagree with your suggestion about re-using brake fluid. Almost all automotive brake fluids (apart from DOT 5) are hygroscopic and therefore absorb moisture from the atmosphere. During the 24 hours you let the fluid stand to let the air work out, moisture is being absorbed into the oil, which upon reintroduction to your braking system will cause corrosion. Brake fluid should not be re-used and should actually be replaced far more often than it is on most cars (my own included). Cheers, Chris
I've never even considered trying to reuse brake fluid; even thinking twice about using unused brake fluid from a previously opened bottle, though I have. I'm just living on the edge that way.
No 'engineer' would ever reused brake fluid - to flush and bleed my whole car is less than two bottles of brake fluid and less than $10.
Ya they would, engineers just look for problems to solve and really have little clue of anything REAL WORLD...
As said, you be a fool to reuse brake fluid, but this dude confuses dot 3 4 5.1 with dot 5.
Dot 5 is going to get air in it and it NEVER wants to come out (forget 24hours) but won't absorb water...
3 4 5.1 will like not even aerate, but will absorb water...
5 you need to be careful when pouring even... 3 4 5.1 nope
5 you can leave open for days (I would not)
3 4 5.1 it is junk if you leave it open for days
not if the brake fluid is due a full bleed.
This video helped me 6 months back and it still holds up! I just replaced the seals. Since then the caliper has not been sticking. Thanks alot!
Yep, there really is no need to throw things away when they can be easily and cheaply repaired. It's satisfying too! Cheers, Chris 👍
Christopher Barr - Random Chris This video is going to help me again - now on the other side!
with what did u clean inside the piston house. Can I use an used toothbrush maybe? cheers!
Hi there, I used a lint-free cloth to clean inside the cylinder. You could use a toothbrush if you like, then a wipe with a cloth to remove any particles. Cheers, Chris :-)
can any any regular cloth, old shirts, cotton? for cleaning inside.
Thanks mate, I’m doing this on the weekend, so very helpful.
God bless you
He did not sneeze anywhere in this video.
very helpful video. I have just ordered a seal kit for my Scenic, which has a rear seized caliper.
I would have bled the whole system just to be sure there is no air or contaminants in the system also changed gloves as they were covered in brake fluid.
love your honest low tech approach.
Cheers Gavin 👍
Would've taken the disc off and given it a clean before putting back together. But other than that.
5 years old but still best video on You Tube that shows rebuilt of a Focus front caliper. Thanks mate 👍
Why would you want to rebuild a brake caliper on the car??? Not something I've ever considered in all my years in the motor trade, rather remove the unit, strip it, clean it and reassemble with new parts on a clean workbench.
Why did I want to rebuild a brake caliper on the car? The brake was seized and would not release. I fixed it very quickly on my driveway with minimum fuss and it cost me around 30 USD. You must work in a very particular garage... where I'm from the labour fees to pay a garage to remove a caliper, strip it, clean it, reassembe it with new parts and then refit it would not make any economical sense whatsoever - it would be cheaper to have a new caliper fitted.
I had my car back on the road in less time than it would have taken me to mess around taking my car to a garage and have them fix it on their schedule (and at their prices). Cheers, Chris
Some people don't have the luxury of a workshop and bench..........
One reason is that you don't want to disconnectthe brake line from the caliper. This is an option for the Rust belt folks. - Not sure I'd ever clamp on a brake line, that worries me. A brake line is a structured line not solid rubber.
I'm not sure I appreciate the term 'rust belt folks'... I know all about the internal structure of a brake line as I have worked on aircraft and robot hydraulic systems for just under 20 years. There is no problem with clamping brake lines, nothing will happen unless the brake line is so degraded / brittle that it is at risk of rupture from the expansion and contraction which it undergoes every time you apply the brakes... In which case, you should be glad to find this out whilst working on it, rather than have it fail whilst you are braking hard at high speed.
pretty sure "Rust belt" refers to the latitudes that have to deal with snow/salt Bro, hes not sayin you wear a shitstained belt LOLZ
Deece video still! (that means it was good)
Thanks for this valuable lesson! Especially interesting to see how the square O ring is fitted.
My pleasure buddy! Subscribe for more helpful videos on random subjects. 👍
Best caliper reseal video ive seen. Thank you.
👍
Since your calipers are floating calipers they need the guide pins to be lubricated so they can move back and forth. You would need to use a high temperature grease that will not harm the rubber but this way the caliper will Slide back and forth easily. Also it is a good idea to put some of the same grease on the outside of those rubber grommets so that when you replace them the next time they will come out very easily. Good video and thank you for sharing.
I'm going to do both front disc brakes at the same time this way. There is always that one cylinder that will work its way out before the other. I will use a block of wood to stop the first cylinder from coming all the way out to allow the other cylinder to start working its way out. This way, if I lose to much brake fluid and pressure or I don't want to clamp the hose on an older vehicle that needs all new fluid later, it wont stop me from working on the other caliper. Great video!
Good luck with the job Jerry. Cheers, Chris 👍
Great video! I am going to attempt with my dual piston caliper. Wish me luck!