Great video, in the process of doing this, couple questions. 1. Do you have a link to the exact seeger ring pliers? I bought some but they arent long enough 2. How did you know what position to put the ebrake arm back on in? 3. What is the grease in the small squeeze tube that you used?
Hi, thanks for asking. 1. I'm using very similar to this one: Long Nose 50 mm Snap Ring light duty Internal Circlip Pliers 1.2mm Tips link: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Long-Nose-50-mm-Snap-Ring-light-duty-Internal-Circlip-Pliers-1-2mm-Tips/310147049669?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3Dd088e3cc8dc340c8bb478d24bd08e1c8%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D7%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D183517365085%26itm%3D310147049669&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 2. I always take a picture before I disassemble something, but anyway when you put back hand brake cable bracket it has got some kind of bumper at the end, bended part 90 deg ( ruclips.net/video/YHPX8lEHFKs/видео.html#t=11m35s in video, on the left side) and ebrake arm have to touch this bumper or be as close as possible. 3. It's silicone grease for brake piston , safe for rubber elements, www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silicone-PTFE-Lubricant-Grease-For-Brake-Pistons-Valves-Taps-Joints-Gaskets-6ml/162730609118?epid=1754588867&hash=item25e38009de:g:uUEAAOSwESdcbHzT
@@gottmituns3225 Because PTFE starts to deteriorate at 260°C and it decomposes beyond 350°C 🙂 Several components in auto brake (caliper) assemblies get _much, _*_much_* warmer than that, especially during extended or heavy application. "Ordinary" brakes are entirely friction based. When you clamp the brakes to stop, the kinetic energy of literally ton(s) of mass traveling at (high) speed, within just a few seconds, is converted _almost entirely_ into heat. Like, *_a lot_* of heat. Super duper mega-a-lot 😊 Hence silicon lubricants Because they can "take the heat" (and don't really evaporate) ^^,
A level of skill and attention to detail rarely seen in a commercial environment - I’d take a properly rebuilt OEM caliper over a cheapo reman 100% of the time. Well done. 👍
It's great to see there are still people willing to rebuild calipers. Just one way different. Do not put grease in the O ring grooves. Grease the O ring are it's installed. Why? Because the grease under the O ring will make it tighter and wear out fast. O rings only need lube on the surface that moves. Great video 😅
One of the best videos showing the handbrake self-adjuster parts inside the brake piston. However, you did put the spring and bearing back to the brake piston in opposite direction compared to the position they were installed when you took them out.
Great video, very detailed. Just finished this job and I would like to add one bit of information in case someone needs it. You MUST compress the handbrake mechanism before you install its circlip. If you don't you will never be able to properly seat it and the handbrake will not work. I used my brake calliper wind back tool with a suitable socket to hold it down while getting the circlip in place. You can check afterwards by manually operating the handbrake lever and seeing if the piston continues out which is the correct way.
so before putting the last clip back in place i need to put the piston inside the caliper, compress it, remove the piston and than install the circlip?
@@caioramos5198 Not the piston. The part where he puts the handbrake mechanism back into the calliper at 9:06. You need to compress it slightly on the metal surface surrounding the big thread or the circlip won't be seated even though it looks like it is. The way to check is to operate the handbrake lever at the end like he did at 12:53 and the piston should keep coming out of the bore. If it doesn't the circlip is not correctly seated and the handbrake will not work.
Goede en leerzame video. Ik was vooral benieuwd naar het mechanisme van de handrem. Nochtans opletten voor mensen die niet volledig op de hoogte zijn van remtechniek. Remmen blijven zeer belangrijk en ik vrees voor de amateur technieker die fouten gaat maken. Voor hen is het misschien beter om een nieuwe te kopen of het werk uit te geven aan een ervaren technieker.
Great video! I was looking for this exact thing about 6 months ago and coulnd't find anything as well detailed as your video. You have a new subscriber.
You’re a God, I’ve looked everywhere on earth on how to rebuild my Kia Rio calipers, i was about to spend $120 on 2 new rear ones. Video says Volkswagen but the caliper is the same as a Kia Rio’s
I don't think they have the same mechanism. I disassembled an OE Mando caliper, but I found it's practically impossible to rebuild/reassemble the caliper parts back without some type of special tool. There are 2 springs you need to compress to put the circlip into the groove.
Great instructional video. Congratulations. One comment I would like to make is I have never seen that type of contamination before on a brake caliper. It is like a gooey oily substance. Normally they are covered in dry brake dust.
Thanks man!! i'm hanging out at the shop, going thru a whole mk4 Jetta. I got held up on what I was doing, and there is never nothing to do. So I need to repair a caliper anyways (it's on a lengthy list) and I have the kit, so here I am on a Saturday night. I guess there's no brakes being put on this party!! Folks, don't worry I have a day job. Thanks again.
Fantastic job! I will try it! Now I know why the mechanic replaced the whole caliper instead of rebuilding it. He unscrewed two bolts and a banjo bolt and just bleeded it in the end.
Great video, thanks a bunch! Saved me from scrapping a caliper and buying a new one - local dealers are extremely expensive, and shipping here is so costly it's more to return the old "core" than the core deposit in return. I'm gonna need some of that mechanism though, road salt and rust got in there really good.
Great video! Can you explain how the handbrake lever pushes the piston out at the start of the video but the piston returns when using the lever at the end?
It probably has 3 ball bearings spaced around evenly in circle, each sitting in the center dimple of inclined, oval-shaped recess, so when you turn the spring-loaded thingy, they come out of the dimple. When you release it, the bearing rolls back to the dimple because of the spring force and the incline.
He didn't move the lever far enough or it wasn't working correctly. The whole point of the handbrake mechanism is to wind the piston out to clamp the rotor.
I really appreciated this video. I'm going to attempt to rebuild my rear calipers on my 03 Olds Aurora, it has a similar piston style. At 1st I wasn't sure how to do it but because of your video I'm confident that I can do them now! However I was wondering why you didn't paint the caliper before doing rebuild? Anyway was still a great video!
Well done, excellent video! The handbrake lever was sticking on the o/s caliper a bit on my TDI. Its occurred to me, if I clean the rear of the caliper off, remove the two metal plates and the ring, I can then remove the caliper and with rear side up, spray some grease onto the spindle so it runs down into the caliper spindle bore and prevent further seizure.
It'll rust again in couple months, i've unseized them this way countless times on customers cars but the only permanent solution is getting refurbd calipers in your local car parts store for 60$ a piece.
@@janprokopenko7928 What's to stop a refurbished caliper seizing up. Far better buy new, for VW, a TRW brand caliper. Giving the mater some thought, I reckon it could just be rust build up between the cable lever and the spring arm causing the sticking so when it gets a bit warmer, I'll remove them both, wire wheel brush them, lube and refit.
Fantastic video and very detailed strip down and rebuild of a VW rear brake caliper. Only bit I didn’t understand was when you screwed in the piston after the rebuild then unscrew it to remove it to put the outer dust shield onto the piston. Was there a setting you have to do before fitting the outer dust cover to the piston. But great video.
Adam piston tamir etmiyor insan ameliyat ediyor 😊 ne kadar özenli ve temiz çalışıyor 😊birde bizim ustalara bak toz lastigini tornavidanin keskin yeriyle yerine yerleştiriyor
You should try refurbing an mk7 golf rear caliper with electronic hand brake. When I took the piston out of mine I found out its way more complicated. There loads of tiny ball bearings inside and some tiny springs that need to placed around a thread inside the caliper. I had to buy a new caliper.
Great job, but do you know if it's possible to get the whole handbrake mechanism, which fits into the caliper? In advance, thank you for your response.
Just a small comment: That Bosch grease is for use OUTSIDE the hydraulic system. i.e. for smearing on the back of the pads and guides etc. Where copper grease was once recommended. The problem with copper grease is that it tends to dry up and harden. Check Bosch's information on it.
It's actually known as 'rubber grease' and I have a big tin of it for doing brake maintenance. It's called rubber grease because it doesn't react with the rubber parts of the brake and break it down like a petroleum grease would. I use it for inserting the O ring seals on the calipers and for the bellows seals on the slider pins etc. Any excess comes out in the waste brake fluid when bleeding the caliper after. It's not meant for the back of the pads at all.
@@Jooeffoh You are totally wrong. It is not rubber grease. I suggest you search for Bosch Superfit TO102 and check the Bosch information sheet as I suggested. But go ahead and keep putting it on your brake seals if it keeps you happy.
Good job you made that look simple enough. But these days a new caliper from eurocarpart plus exchange of your old one is only 65 quid. A rebuild kit is 15 quid plus the headache of rebuilding it. I would prefer a replacement and it should last longer than the rebuild one.
I see you're using three different types of greases. Can you please explain the type and the reasons to use here this and there that? Thanks in advance!
I have electronic parking break and I reactivated them with one them still not on the rotor and the piston came out completely. I'm hoping that with this video I will be able to push it back in using your method.
Hi there thanks for great video! To clarify - to remove the piston using handbrake lever the bleed valves must be open, then when both are blocked off it compresses/retracts like the end of the video?
Thank you for taking the time to make this excellent video. Can you tell me if the internals are the same for a 2001 audi a6. I have read that for some older audis removing the seeger ring will cause the spring to explode outward if it is not compressed first.
If I were to remove the cable lever to oil behind, since there's spring tension on it when its up against the stop, I need to take the torx bolt out and let the cable lever push the base bracket around to release the tension and use that position as a market to refit both and move them back round to right position.
This is an excellent demonstration, even without sound. Does anybody know where I can find a detailed description of how the auto adjusting feature of these parking brakes work?
Will be trying to do a rear caliper on my a4 b6. Only thing is I dont have all those kinds of grease. Im wondering if its ok to use just brake fluid? Those special greases are not readily available around here and I don't feel like ordering from ebay having to wait two weeks.
7:06 I see that you used the Bosch Superfit grease when fitting the manual brake mechanism in the caliper. Why did you not use the red/violet paste also here or the silicone paste? Doesn't this manual brake mechanism come in contact with the brake fluid? I'm planning to rebuild my calipers by myself and I'm stuck on what lubricants to use. :(
Do you know why there is an oring that sits on the end of the rod that inserts into the piston? What is it sealing if the whole area is in brake fluid?
Hi great video very detailed.. My problem is that my snap ring broke when removing it any idea of dimensions of the ring... Any help will be greatly appreciated... Thanks
Great DIY tutorial, colud you share info on greases and lubricants u used, each shown in minutes: 5.32, 7.38, 8.22, and do you think that it can be done without them ( only use brake oil as lubricant)-thanks.
Great video and very well done that rebuild. I also need to get those bent nose seeker pliers. But my problem with my Audi 38mm rear brake (similar to yours) caliber is different. Hand Brake rod coming out from the caliber's back is leaking because rod itself is engraved. I have to get a new o-rings but I'll need also new rod/trapezoidal rod with spring assembly. Does anyone or do you know if those are available? Salted winter roads here in Finland are very bad thing because it'll spoil our cars totally.
Thanks ;) It depend in which area you live? if you are from europe check on ebay. Most important thing is diameter of brake caliper piston. Before you do order, measure diameter. VW rear caliper usually have 38 mm. Just type "Vw brake caliper repair kit 38mm". Also you can finde online catalogue with listed parts for specified vehicle, for example: "SEINSA AUTOFREN". I'm using silicone grease for brake systems. It's safe for rubber elements. It doesn't matter which brand you choose. in comments below you can find link with grease that I'm using. ;)
Tak jak pisali inni, porządna robota. Ile Ci to mniej więcej zajmuje? Ja używam mniej smaru ale co za dużo to nie szkodzi ;p płyn hamulcowy nadmiar wypłucze. Co to za smar z tomexa? I jeszcze jedno pytanie, ile mniej więcej piasku na taki zacisk?
Cześć, w razie co to dopowiem ze zrobienie takiego zacisku z piaskowaniem zajmuje około 40 min. Gdybym miał bardziej wydajny kompresor z większym zbiornikiem to było by zdecydowanie szybciej. Co do ilości piasku to wychodzi mniej więcej od 4 do 5 takich pełnych zbiorniczków pistoletu do piaskowania, (pojemność zbiorniczka około 1L) A smar jak już napisałeś znaleziony . Pozdrawiam :)
Hi. Very interesting video. Great job. I have a mk4 jetta with a seized hand brake. I can't seem to find anybody that reconditions the caliper , so ... i will have to do it myself. The question is, what brand of seal kit did you use? And is it necessary to replace the piston?
@@DjTommy2008 Right. Even with a little surface rust you can scotch brite and be good. Glad you got them done. What year/model calipers did you rebuild?
Good quality video but just imagine how much better it would have been if there was some audio dialogue interaction or similar. We have eyes to see & ears to hear & when the two of them are combined together we get awesome reception!! On the other hand when we only use our eyes instead of our ears or vice-a-versa well it's very much like stereo except only one channel is working & therefore we only receive half of what we should be getting!! I'm a tutor myself & if I taught by visual aspect only I wouldn't have a job for long & rightfully so!! Generally speaking ya can't teach by visual communication only as you must use the audio aspect as well!! None of the Universities in my city use this teaching method (visual aspect only) & therefore its obviously not considered the appropriate learning/teaching method since time immemorial!! Might be the modern way but its not the proper way otherwise generally a good video & you so obviously know what you are doing but & respectfully, are all of your listeners on the same channel???
hi thanks for this video you helped me a lot but i have some question if you can help me: the red grease is only for the mechanism or for the seals as well? I just have to change the dust cover seal on my calipers because they are torn I just dismantle the piston and the dust cover I just plan to change the dust cover and the internal gasket my question is: I must grease the mechanism again or not ? or just grease the handbrake seal (I will not disassemble this one) Thank you in advance for your reply
DO EXACTLY WHAT HE DID TO GET HANDBRAKE RUBBER OFF, (2.09) JAM ARM IN A VISE AND HIT THREAD WITH A PUNCH AND IT WILL COME OFF THE SPINDLE. PROBABLY 1ST HIT.... GREAT VIDEO 👊👍
A great video, I did everything as in video except the sanding calliper as I don’t have equipment for it, but cleared as much as I could and it didn’t help to me. Basically the piston is not returning like yours during demonstration after assemblyIs it possible that hand-break mechanisms could be faulty? Thank you
@@carsguidediy hi i have the same problem when pumping the hand brake bracket the piston doesn't come out fully only about 3 mm then goes back in but my other rear caliper pumps the piston all the way out. Did this with both dust covers removed but left the piston seal in. Can you advise?
J'aurais du voir cette vidéo avant de démonter mon étrier, sur cette vidéo j'ai appris entre autre qu'il fallait mettre d'abord le soufflet sur le piston et ensuite dans la gorge de l'étrier. Merci Cars guide DIY
![Réparation d'un étrier de frein [TUTORIEL AUTODOC]](/img/1.gif)
Great video, in the process of doing this, couple questions.
1. Do you have a link to the exact seeger ring pliers? I bought some but they arent long enough
2. How did you know what position to put the ebrake arm back on in?
3. What is the grease in the small squeeze tube that you used?
Hi, thanks for asking.
1. I'm using very similar to this one: Long Nose 50 mm Snap Ring light duty Internal Circlip Pliers 1.2mm Tips link: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Long-Nose-50-mm-Snap-Ring-light-duty-Internal-Circlip-Pliers-1-2mm-Tips/310147049669?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3Dd088e3cc8dc340c8bb478d24bd08e1c8%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D7%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D183517365085%26itm%3D310147049669&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
2. I always take a picture before I disassemble something, but anyway when you put back hand brake cable bracket it has got some kind of bumper at the end, bended part 90 deg ( ruclips.net/video/YHPX8lEHFKs/видео.html#t=11m35s in video, on the left side) and ebrake arm have to touch this bumper or be as close as possible.
3. It's silicone grease for brake piston , safe for rubber elements, www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silicone-PTFE-Lubricant-Grease-For-Brake-Pistons-Valves-Taps-Joints-Gaskets-6ml/162730609118?epid=1754588867&hash=item25e38009de:g:uUEAAOSwESdcbHzT
@@carsguidediy You shoud use it on all ruber.
@@CRiCU90 Some applications here demand lubricant properties that PTFE can't really deliver.
@@pr0xZen
How can you tell ,why are you so sure❓❓❓👍🏻
@@gottmituns3225 Because PTFE starts to deteriorate at 260°C and it decomposes beyond 350°C 🙂 Several components in auto brake (caliper) assemblies get _much, _*_much_* warmer than that, especially during extended or heavy application.
"Ordinary" brakes are entirely friction based. When you clamp the brakes to stop, the kinetic energy of literally ton(s) of mass traveling at (high) speed, within just a few seconds, is converted _almost entirely_ into heat. Like, *_a lot_* of heat. Super duper mega-a-lot 😊
Hence silicon lubricants Because they can "take the heat" (and don't really evaporate) ^^,
A level of skill and attention to detail rarely seen in a commercial environment - I’d take a properly rebuilt OEM caliper over a cheapo reman 100% of the time. Well done. 👍
Well, if you add upp cost of parts, tools and time Im sure that 100dollar OE caliper is worth the money.
It's great to see there are still people willing to rebuild calipers.
Just one way different.
Do not put grease in the O ring grooves. Grease the O ring are it's installed. Why? Because the grease under the O ring will make it tighter and wear out fast. O rings only need lube on the surface that moves.
Great video 😅
Explains why calipers are expensive with such small parts. Glad it can be a rebuilt and excellent video.
One of the best videos showing the handbrake self-adjuster parts inside the brake piston.
However, you did put the spring and bearing back to the brake piston in opposite direction compared to the position they were installed when you took them out.
Great video, very detailed.
Just finished this job and I would like to add one bit of information in case someone needs it.
You MUST compress the handbrake mechanism before you install its circlip. If you don't you will never be able to properly seat it and the handbrake will not work.
I used my brake calliper wind back tool with a suitable socket to hold it down while getting the circlip in place.
You can check afterwards by manually operating the handbrake lever and seeing if the piston continues out which is the correct way.
so before putting the last clip back in place i need to put the piston inside the caliper, compress it, remove the piston and than install the circlip?
@@caioramos5198
Not the piston.
The part where he puts the handbrake mechanism back into the calliper at 9:06.
You need to compress it slightly on the metal surface surrounding the big thread or the circlip won't be seated even though it looks like it is.
The way to check is to operate the handbrake lever at the end like he did at 12:53 and the piston should keep coming out of the bore. If it doesn't the circlip is not correctly seated and the handbrake will not work.
How did he get in it so easily if he didn't compress it then?
Goede en leerzame video. Ik was vooral benieuwd naar het mechanisme van de handrem. Nochtans opletten voor mensen die niet volledig op de hoogte zijn van remtechniek. Remmen blijven zeer belangrijk en ik vrees voor de amateur technieker die fouten gaat maken. Voor hen is het misschien beter om een nieuwe te kopen of het werk uit te geven aan een ervaren technieker.
Great video! I was looking for this exact thing about 6 months ago and coulnd't find anything as well detailed as your video. You have a new subscriber.
You read my mind, I was also repairing my rear brake system last summer and looking for something like this:))
Veoma pedantno,veoma precizno,veoma poučno i korisno za sve kojima ne smeta da malo zaprljaju ruke.Hvala majstore 👍🏻🙏🏻
You’re a God, I’ve looked everywhere on earth on how to rebuild my Kia Rio calipers, i was about to spend $120 on 2 new rear ones.
Video says Volkswagen but the caliper is the same as a Kia Rio’s
I don't think they have the same mechanism. I disassembled an OE Mando caliper, but I found it's practically impossible to rebuild/reassemble the caliper parts back without some type of special tool. There are 2 springs you need to compress to put the circlip into the groove.
This takes a lot of skill and tools, I will be just replacing the whole caliper. Great video , keep it up
Thank you. Its very much appreciated. As a heavy duty mechanic I enjoyed your work. Keep it up
This man showed a quality work
Great instructional video. Congratulations. One comment I would like to make is I have never seen that type of contamination before on a brake caliper. It is like a gooey oily substance. Normally they are covered in dry brake dust.
Top class video best on RUclips I have ever seen please load up more. Kind regards from uk.
You make this look to easy man,for me I wouldn’t never attempt this,but you make it look easy,top job
Lmao why? It's not hard at all
What a awesome video helped me out loads fully restored the rear calipers on my astra vxr
Done mine 💞 thanks, FYI I found the seat Leon kit cheaper than the VW one?! Seat kit same and fitted fine,good luck to all ☺️
Amazing job ! No Lyrics, just clean work. I thank you for this video !
Thanks man!!
i'm hanging out at the shop, going thru a whole mk4 Jetta.
I got held up on what I was doing, and there is never nothing to do.
So I need to repair a caliper anyways (it's on a lengthy list) and I have the kit, so here I am on a Saturday night.
I guess there's no brakes being put on this party!!
Folks, don't worry I have a day job.
Thanks again.
Thank you so much. This video helped me massively! The main rubber boot piston seal was a bit of a fiddle, but got there! 😂
One of the best videos I have seem. Will be using this to help me to dismantle a caliper from a Peugeot 407 which is the same design.
And 307 is the same.
I have the same problem now with handbrake. Thx for video! Lets start restoration :)
Fantastic job! I will try it! Now I know why the mechanic replaced the whole caliper instead of rebuilding it. He unscrewed two bolts and a banjo bolt and just bleeded it in the end.
Great video, thanks a bunch! Saved me from scrapping a caliper and buying a new one - local dealers are extremely expensive, and shipping here is so costly it's more to return the old "core" than the core deposit in return. I'm gonna need some of that mechanism though, road salt and rust got in there really good.
Great video! Can you explain how the handbrake lever pushes the piston out at the start of the video but the piston returns when using the lever at the end?
It probably has 3 ball bearings spaced around evenly in circle, each sitting in the center dimple of inclined, oval-shaped recess, so when you turn the spring-loaded thingy, they come out of the dimple. When you release it, the bearing rolls back to the dimple because of the spring force and the incline.
He didn't move the lever far enough or it wasn't working correctly. The whole point of the handbrake mechanism is to wind the piston out to clamp the rotor.
I really appreciated this video. I'm going to attempt to rebuild my rear calipers on my 03 Olds Aurora, it has a similar piston style. At 1st I wasn't sure how to do it but because of your video I'm confident that I can do them now! However I was wondering why you didn't paint the caliper before doing rebuild? Anyway was still a great video!
loved this video - super clear. just please no more repetitive music, i can't hear this song play for the 5th time in a row.
The music was ok, the first time. I had to mute it after the third time, and I still haven't recovered.
Well done, excellent video!
The handbrake lever was sticking on the o/s caliper a bit on my TDI. Its occurred to me, if I clean the rear of the caliper off, remove the two metal plates and the ring, I can then remove the caliper and with rear side up, spray some grease onto the spindle so it runs down into the caliper spindle bore and prevent further seizure.
It'll rust again in couple months, i've unseized them this way countless times on customers cars but the only permanent solution is getting refurbd calipers in your local car parts store for 60$ a piece.
@@janprokopenko7928
What's to stop a refurbished caliper seizing up. Far better buy new, for VW, a TRW brand caliper.
Giving the mater some thought, I reckon it could just be rust build up between the cable lever and the spring arm causing the sticking so when it gets a bit warmer, I'll remove them both, wire wheel brush them, lube and refit.
Fantastic video and very detailed strip down and rebuild of a VW rear brake caliper. Only bit I didn’t understand was when you screwed in the piston after the rebuild then unscrew it to remove it to put the outer dust shield onto the piston. Was there a setting you have to do before fitting the outer dust cover to the piston. But great video.
Great!!! I needed a DIY on how to rebuild caliper.
Thanks!! ;)
Este foarte detaliat 10 nota,puțini știu a face un tutorial.Din cît se vede astai profesia din vare faci banii
Congratulations for your tuto. Good work. I understand now how it works. And all this without speaking!!!
Adam piston tamir etmiyor insan ameliyat ediyor 😊 ne kadar özenli ve temiz çalışıyor 😊birde bizim ustalara bak toz lastigini tornavidanin keskin yeriyle yerine yerleştiriyor
Excellent work. Really helpful, made the job a whole lot easier, thanks!
Just about to do this on my E34 5 series - thanks for sharing very useful !
This video saved me big time. Thank you for sharing your experience!!!
Excellent video. You are a competent worker.
W końcu jakiś porządny poradnik.
Great video! Greetings from the Netherlands
You should try refurbing an mk7 golf rear caliper with electronic hand brake. When I took the piston out of mine I found out its way more complicated. There loads of tiny ball bearings inside and some tiny springs that need to placed around a thread inside the caliper. I had to buy a new caliper.
Very helpfull video thankyou for taking the time to post it.😊👍 Can you use red rubber grease for the whole process?
This was so relaxing
finally helpful video! first normal "car dude" on ytube.
Great job, but do you know if it's possible to get the whole handbrake mechanism, which fits into the caliper? In advance, thank you for your response.
Precizno, pedantno i čista 10.Svaka čast za trud...
What a beautiful video. Thoroughly enjoyed
Just a small comment: That Bosch grease is for use OUTSIDE the hydraulic system. i.e. for smearing on the back of the pads and guides etc. Where copper grease was once recommended. The problem with copper grease is that it tends to dry up and harden. Check Bosch's information on it.
It's actually known as 'rubber grease' and I have a big tin of it for doing brake maintenance. It's called rubber grease because it doesn't react with the rubber parts of the brake and break it down like a petroleum grease would.
I use it for inserting the O ring seals on the calipers and for the bellows seals on the slider pins etc. Any excess comes out in the waste brake fluid when bleeding the caliper after. It's not meant for the back of the pads at all.
@@Jooeffoh
You are totally wrong. It is not rubber grease.
I suggest you search for Bosch Superfit TO102 and check the Bosch information sheet as I suggested.
But go ahead and keep putting it on your brake seals if it keeps you happy.
Alot of goood work there. Makes me think wonder if I would rather buy a factory recon caliper for around £50-£70
Finally got it👍I am gonna do the same thing with my damn car.thanks a lot dude
Это называется профессиональное комплексное обслуживание суппорта!👍
Good job you made that look simple enough.
But these days a new caliper from eurocarpart plus exchange of your old one is only 65 quid. A rebuild kit is 15 quid plus the headache of rebuilding it. I would prefer a replacement and it should last longer than the rebuild one.
Great video and explained everything exactly thank you so much keep up the good work
That was an amazing video my friend! Thank you very much!!! Are my 2003 Passat W8 rear brakes the same as these?
Thanks. It was interesting ...
How works self adjusting mechanism ? When lever travels long distance, it adjusts and never goes back ?
I've heard that might be a problem due to over-lubrication or the wrong type of lubricant. But I'm not a pro; this is my first time doing this.
I see you're using three different types of greases. Can you please explain the type and the reasons to use here this and there that? Thanks in advance!
I have electronic parking break and I reactivated them with one them still not on the rotor and the piston came out completely. I'm hoping that with this video I will be able to push it back in using your method.
Hi there thanks for great video! To clarify - to remove the piston using handbrake lever the bleed valves must be open, then when both are blocked off it compresses/retracts like the end of the video?
Excuse me, just a question : can I use lithium grease instead of brake piston grease ? Thank you again for this video !
No, because it needs to be compatible with brake fluid and withstand high temperatures ;)
I didn't need to rebuild my calipers...but it was very cathartic watching this being done.
Thank you for taking the time to make this excellent video. Can you tell me if the internals are the same for a 2001 audi a6. I have read that for some older audis removing the seeger ring will cause the spring to explode outward if it is not compressed first.
If I were to remove the cable lever to oil behind, since there's spring tension on it when its up against the stop, I need to take the torx bolt out and let the cable lever push the base bracket around to release the tension and use that position as a market to refit both and move them back round to right position.
Great video.. thanks.. do you know how much the piston moves when you pull the lever? I mean the ratio of the movement between lever and piston...
This is an excellent demonstration, even without sound. Does anybody know where I can find a detailed description of how the auto adjusting feature of these parking brakes work?
Awesome Video thank you , going to need to do this rear brakes are sticking and much cheaper option than buy new calipers
23 euros vs 140 took me a while as it was very seized but now works perfect thanks again for the vid
Will be trying to do a rear caliper on my a4 b6.
Only thing is I dont have all those kinds of grease.
Im wondering if its ok to use just brake fluid?
Those special greases are not readily available around here and I don't feel like ordering from ebay having to wait two weeks.
Hi there, brake fluid will be ok for inner parts :)
Regards
Great video 👍🏻
You're a life saver. Thank you.
Great video what were the 3 different greases that you used, and where can I buy the new seals and boot for my car??
Дружище ты мегакрут. 👍👍👍. Ты вдохновил меня. Пойду переберу суппорты.
Nice job! With some grease works better than new! 👍👍👍
The music made me feel like I was having my caliper refurbished in Nando’s ! Lol
Good video. You do love that grease !! 😂
Love this video step by step guide well-done
Brilliant vid. Off to do my BMW mini calipers now.. What music is this, stuck in my head now..!!
7:06 I see that you used the Bosch Superfit grease when fitting the manual brake mechanism in the caliper. Why did you not use the red/violet paste also here or the silicone paste? Doesn't this manual brake mechanism come in contact with the brake fluid? I'm planning to rebuild my calipers by myself and I'm stuck on what lubricants to use. :(
Yo can use vaseline
Do you know why there is an oring that sits on the end of the rod that inserts into the piston? What is it sealing if the whole area is in brake fluid?
You have different lubricants for the rod and the piston, is it possible to use red in both?
I really wish the music blended together better. Awesome video though, gonna go rebuild my brakes now.
Świetna robota, zastanawiam się tylko jak długo zacisk będzie w dobrej formie bez zabezpieczenia farbą, albo lakierem. Pozdrawiam.
To amelinion. Tego nie pomalujesz. I nic mu nie będzie
Hi great video very detailed.. My problem is that my snap ring broke when removing it any idea of dimensions of the ring... Any help will be greatly appreciated... Thanks
Great DIY tutorial, colud you share info on greases and lubricants u used, each shown in minutes: 5.32, 7.38, 8.22, and do you think that it can be done without them ( only use brake oil as lubricant)-thanks.
The part from 9:21 to 9:30 took me 10 tries and 1h, also the video shows only that something changes, but how, it's quite tricky.
This is exactly my problem. I'm stuck on this step. There is no space to put seger ring.
trés beau travail, très explicite , je m étonne que vous démontiez sans avoir nettoyé un peut l ensemble ,pour plus de visibilité !!sinon parfait ,jp
Nice... My piston doesn't seem to Screw back in... Do u this nk i can replace the piston or can it also be the screw in the caliper...?
Hi thanks for the great video ,but can I change only the piston without having to change all the kit .
Hi there, if your handbrake mechanism in brake caliper is in good order, then sure YOU CAN change only the piston ;) Regards
@@carsguidediy thank you I think I will buy second-hand mechanism
Great video and very well done that rebuild. I also need to get those bent nose seeker pliers. But my problem with my Audi 38mm rear brake (similar to yours) caliber is different. Hand Brake rod coming out from the caliber's back is leaking because rod itself is engraved. I have to get a new o-rings but I'll need also new rod/trapezoidal rod with spring assembly. Does anyone or do you know if those are available? Salted winter roads here in Finland are very bad thing because it'll spoil our cars totally.
Great instructional video. Where can i buy rebuild kit 2013 vw wagon TDI, ? what type grease recommended ? Thanks
Thanks ;)
It depend in which area you live? if you are from europe check on ebay. Most important thing is diameter of brake caliper piston. Before you do order, measure diameter. VW rear caliper usually have 38 mm. Just type "Vw brake caliper repair kit 38mm". Also you can finde online catalogue with listed parts for specified vehicle, for example: "SEINSA AUTOFREN".
I'm using silicone grease for brake systems. It's safe for rubber elements. It doesn't matter which brand you choose. in comments below you can find link with grease that I'm using. ;)
Tak jak pisali inni, porządna robota. Ile Ci to mniej więcej zajmuje? Ja używam mniej smaru ale co za dużo to nie szkodzi ;p płyn hamulcowy nadmiar wypłucze. Co to za smar z tomexa? I jeszcze jedno pytanie, ile mniej więcej piasku na taki zacisk?
przeczytałem inne komentarze, znalazłem część odpowiedzi, więc nieważne. Dobra robota
Cześć, w razie co to dopowiem ze zrobienie takiego zacisku z piaskowaniem zajmuje około 40 min. Gdybym miał bardziej wydajny kompresor z większym zbiornikiem to było by zdecydowanie szybciej.
Co do ilości piasku to wychodzi mniej więcej od 4 do 5 takich pełnych zbiorniczków pistoletu do piaskowania, (pojemność zbiorniczka około 1L)
A smar jak już napisałeś znaleziony .
Pozdrawiam :)
Hi. Very interesting video. Great job. I have a mk4 jetta with a seized hand brake. I can't seem to find anybody that reconditions the caliper , so ... i will have to do it myself. The question is, what brand of seal kit did you use? And is it necessary to replace the piston?
Did you rebuild yours or buy new ones? Heard if the piston Isn’t to bad and rusty you can reuse it.
@@hardcore4476 it was rebuilt. There wasn't any rust at all. A new set of seals and all good.
@@hardcore4476 and by the way, you can find sets with a new piston în it .
@@DjTommy2008 Right. Even with a little surface rust you can scotch brite and be good. Glad you got them done. What year/model calipers did you rebuild?
@@hardcore4476 2002 Ate
When you removed the actuation arm for the E-brake. Did you mark it's orientation to the shaft? The caliper on my X-type appears to an orientation.
Hi there. No I didn't. Because in this brake caliper arm touches metal bracket and this is an orientation point. Regards ;)
Great video, bravooo … can somebody tell me what is the original brake Caliper of vw/seat ibiza 2005 ? Is TRW a good choice ? Thanks
Good quality video but just imagine how much better it would have been if there was some audio dialogue interaction or similar. We have eyes to see & ears to hear & when the two of them are combined together we get awesome reception!! On the other hand when we only use our eyes instead of our ears or vice-a-versa well it's very much like stereo except only one channel is working & therefore we only receive half of what we should be getting!!
I'm a tutor myself & if I taught by visual aspect only I wouldn't have a job for long & rightfully so!! Generally speaking ya can't teach by visual communication only as you must use the audio aspect as well!! None of the Universities in my city use this teaching method (visual aspect only) & therefore its obviously not considered the appropriate learning/teaching method since time immemorial!! Might be the modern way but its not the proper way otherwise generally a good video & you so obviously know what you are doing but & respectfully, are all of your listeners on the same channel???
hi thanks for this video you helped me a lot but i have some question if you can help me:
the red grease is only for the mechanism or for the seals as well?
I just have to change the dust cover seal on my calipers because they are torn I just dismantle the piston and the dust cover I just plan to change the dust cover and the internal gasket my question is: I must grease the mechanism again or not ?
or just grease the handbrake seal (I will not disassemble this one)
Thank you in advance for your reply
DO EXACTLY WHAT HE DID TO GET HANDBRAKE RUBBER OFF, (2.09) JAM ARM IN A VISE AND HIT THREAD WITH A PUNCH AND IT WILL COME OFF THE SPINDLE. PROBABLY 1ST HIT.... GREAT VIDEO 👊👍
A great video, I did everything as in video except the sanding calliper as I don’t have equipment for it, but cleared as much as I could and it didn’t help to me. Basically the piston is not returning like yours during demonstration after assemblyIs it possible that hand-break mechanisms could be faulty? Thank you
Hi there, did you try to retract the piston without dust cover and without piston seal?
@@carsguidediy hi i have the same problem when pumping the hand brake bracket the piston doesn't come out fully only about 3 mm then goes back in but my other rear caliper pumps the piston all the way out. Did this with both dust covers removed but left the piston seal in. Can you advise?
Piękna robota widać że dla siebie👍:)
Hello! What type of transparent grease is in a small tube (08:20)?
Amazing video!!! Where u From??? IM Braziliam , and I wish u a great new year (2022) Peace and Helth for u guy!!!!
J'aurais du voir cette vidéo avant de démonter mon étrier, sur cette vidéo j'ai appris entre autre qu'il fallait mettre d'abord le soufflet sur le piston et ensuite dans la gorge de l'étrier. Merci Cars guide DIY