Im not sure what world we live in where people dont know what CRC brake quiet looks like. It bonds the brake pad to the caliper and that changes the total resonate frequency of the assembly. The brake pad is bonded to the caliper with a easy to disassemble glue that requires the brake pad to now vibrate the entire caliber before it squeals, so it wont squeal with braking vibration. Yes you can use grease. Synthetic, of course, purple, black, orange, rots seals, go on and on, wives tales up the ass, they are applied to do the same job, just stop squeals, and your preference is yours and don't freaking matter to the next guy. Personally I like brake quiet on the pads as once its set, water, rain, etc cant wash it away. Ever look at the back of old pads? They rust because water got in there, and no amount of grease will keep it out unless you are changing pads every year, and that means you drive like a dick anyway and no one cares what you think.
@@sc5015 It's not a world I want to live in Steve. The woke Libs have banned teaching about CRC products in public schools and all the kids learn about now is anti-seize. Pathetic.
The great thing about jeep brakes is you don't need that shit. But upsell it anyway. Just more of a hassle then it needs to be down the road. Not needed at all.
Growing up on a farm in the snowy, muddy, road-salted north east, I learned to love red grease. I had a rule: there can never be enough red grease. We kept a big can of it around with an actual paint brush. If I unthreaded it, I cleaned and greased it. If I disassembled it, it got cleaned and greased. Eventually, you forget what its like to fight with a stuck bolt. 30 minute disassemblies take 3 minutes. Well worth it.
Thank you for that idea, I'm doing a build on a 1949 dodge pickup that's been daily driven since the day it was bought until about 5 years ago when it began to sit so EVERYTHING is rusty and stuck. When putting it back together I'll have to remember the bucket and brush
I actually like the 'mistake', I watch these videos to prepare mentally to do a project, and a reminder that each action needs patience or it will cost me, is a good thing!
As someone who owns three jeep 4.0s (XJ, XJ, TJ) I am so glad the algorithm gods landed your video in my feed the other day. Loving watching all these parts I recognize and have worked on for years getting the love they deserve.
Nice rebuild, I recommend a bit of anti-sieze compound on the threads of the bleeder screws though. Plus, rebuilding your calipers does ensure it's done right, so don't apologize for rebuilding something especially when the stuff made/rebuilt today is lower quality.
I usually buy new coated ones for two vehicles. Road salt does a number on the calipers, eh? And thanks for reminding me. I gotta add anti-seize on my caliper bleeder screws.
I believe teflon tape may be a better option than anti-seize. If you're going to use grease, use brake grease, because it's safe if it enters the brake system.
Loved watching this one. When you missed the dust cap seal and re-blasted and re-coated the powder proved you actually care about the quality of your content. Great work!! I feel like I am ready to do the same to my brake calipers!!
Excellent video, thank you so much for keeping your mistakes and the solution!! Far too many youtubers need the "perfect" video and then everyone that watches the video has no idea what mistakes can be made. I stumbled across your channel the other day, subscribed, and been watching through your restoration of this vehicle. I am really envious of your welding and fabrication skills, those are some top notch TIG welds you have going. Please be sure to include your mistakes!! Your videos are so clean and without any BS, showing the mistakes will give everyone watching a heads up and hopefully they don't make the same.
Wow, a lot of arm chair mechanics here! First, great job! I had a caliper I had to replace on a daily driver ASAP. Got one at a typical parts place that was painted grey. Bought a rebuild kit for other side for future use, cause that's they way I am. The "new" grey one locked up 6 months later. Took it apart, and found grey paint over spray in the bore about half way. Must be epoxy paint because the brake fluid did not remove it. But it swelled enough to jam the piston. It did take 120psi on my compressor to remove it, and wow, did it pop when it let go! Removed paint width brass wire brush, used the rebuild kit intended for other side, and fixed. Now, no where near what you did, just a driveway rebuild. But "new" parts suck sometimes.
That was great to watch, I'm glad you decided to leave the mistake in there, we're all humans and we all make mistakes from time to time. Hope you don't mind me adding this but I got a tip that might save yourself out someone else a head ache, when using the compressor to blow out the pistons put a thin piece of wood in between the piston and the caliper, as they can come out at some velocity and someone's the piston shatters/chips. If you're reusing them it's costly and for god's sake keep your fingers out the way of the piston.
I've never used that stuff, nor needed it, just put some grease in the pins and under the clips to prevent rust jacking. Never found the anti noise grease as needed.
looks great but do recommend torquing the brake line to spec because those copper crush washers can only crush a certain way once. and they like their specific torque, definitely recommend a type of brake grease on the slide pins. but overall looks good!
Pappy use to say; "Boy don't be scared. You'll never learn a damn thing if you're afraid to make a mistake." Thanks Pappy. RIP. Good job with this btw. You learned a lot here.
Good job ! Phenolic piston, I didn't see that for a while ! 13:33 why is the pad looking not centered ? I hope is only a visual effect due to camera angle.
Another excellent video, well edited and no talking or music to ruin the proper sounds. Thank you again, I watch all your videos. Does anybody know what that fog painting technique is? I've never seen this before, It seems very effective, Jim.
@@aerialrescuesolutions3277 I know that powder coating seems to be popular for calipers but I don't know if it handles high temps better than regular high temp paint. Powder coating is supposed to be tougher than regular paint though.
When connecting the brake hose line you put the copper crush washer between the hose fitting and hex bolt. It goes between the hose fitting and the caliber body to seal the connection. Of course when you fill the system with fluid and hit the brakes you'll have fluid all over the place until you fix that connection. Read the manual. Also no thread sealer on the bleeder ports, they will leak within a month of driving.
So jealous of how well your blast cabinet works. What size compressor do you have? Gravity feed? Glad to see the rest of truck magically restored itself while you were doing the calipers. Such a nice feeling to make something so crusty clean enough to eat off of.
Fun fact...the Dana 30 calipers CAN be installed bass ackwards....left to right right to left....leaving a nice bubble of air trapped above the bleed screw.......took me three days to figure that one out.....
I'd have soaked them in citric acid prior to disassembly. Two days in strong, hot citric acid bath gets rid of all the rust, but doesn't penetrate any seals. ;) Although If I know my cylinders are rotten, I'll disassemble them before soaking in acid bath.
I've never taken a brake rebuild this far, but there are times where rebuilding is your only option. Being a glutton for punishment and driving older German cars, this is definitely something I've had to do a couple of times...
Can you do a “tools and techniques” video? I want to see how you have those long shaft wire brushes set up with the hose to keep them together and prevent scratching.
When you rebuild you own calipers, you know what you end up with. When you buy calipers, you have no idea whether they used crap parts or seals. I rebuild my calipers using OEM rebuild kits so I end up with OEM quality calipers. I've compared rebuild kits from rock-auto to OEM and the OEM kits have much better rubber in the gaskets and seals.
I wouldn't say that, there were some calipers that didn't have a metal ring to hold them in place. The ones I thought were hard to get the dust boot seated were the GM dust boots from the very late 60's through the 80's or so. Had a machinist friend of mine see me having difficulty installing a GM dust boot and he asked if he could borrow a boot and a couple weeks later, he had made a driver for me to install them.
If you feel like a challenge, try rebuilding Lexus rear calipers with opposing pistons plus retaining clips. You'll reach new depths with your language though 😁😁😁
The copper washer u tap the bolt that hold the break line called a mash seal it can leak if you don’t seal it properly. Just tighten the bolt don’t usually seal them. Tap bolt then tight good to go.
Well I was going to call you a psychopath for the red rtv looking rtv but apparently it's called disc brake quiet. Idk if the sound is meant to be asmr and I'm missing the point but it is. Great vids, I look forward to the Jeep completion.
Just did this with my quad calipers on my tundra a month ago. Successfully rebuild two out of four. One was rusted too bad and had to be replaced. The other got rebuild and was the final one to be reinstalled. When I went to bleed the brakes the bleeder screw snapped off in the caliper…then the screw extractor snapped off in the bleeder. So that got replaced with a new caliper 😂
I've never seen someone put that stuff (whatever it is) on the backs of the pads. What is it and why is it there? I do brake jobs all the time and can only speculate as to what it is.
@@Oleg13916 наверно чтоб не вибрировали. По легенде вибрация вызывает скрип. Как сделано в иномарках-в суппорт вставляется деталь из нержавейки. Она подпружинивает колодки . они ходят туго и не скрипят.
Muy buen video. Así es como cc tiene que dar el mantenimiento . Muy completo cambio todos los empakes. Los discos nuevos . Balatas nuevas. Mm gusto su video. No cualquier mecánico . Realiza el trabajo completo. Aka en méxico tt cobran por media labor.
its been a while, but are there any more jeep videos coming? Ive watched these all about 6x each and Im a big fan of seeing someone put so much effort into bringing a big XJ back
Damn I really appreciate that massive praise. I have 3 or 4 XJ videos 90% recorded and done that will be released in the coming months. I also have 3 non-XJ videos 90% done that I want to release soon as well that will probably come out first. I've been banking a lot of footage and editing that hasn't been released yet
@@RestorationStation awesome! can't wait to see the new vids. I had a lifted 2 door 1988 XJ when I was a kid and I really miss that thing so its great to see someone keeping one alive and making it better than jeep did
I put new pistons in my calipers once. Then, when I took it in for new brake pads about 2 years later, the idiots at Midas Brakes messed stuff up so bad, that I did not have any brakes 8 miles later!!! They said they replaced the calipers. I said, "Oh, show me the old ones." They said, "Uh, we threw them away already." They LIED!!! I had proof! When I replaced the pistons, the person helping me cross-threaded the bleeder valve... and it is funny how that one bleeder valve was STILL in the place where I left it... on my front right caliper!!! Word to the wise, mechanics... just because a WOMAN may pay you for your time and effort, never assume the women have no knowledge about things "mechanical." I took my car to the company because I was now working full-time, and did not have the time to do the work myself. ... And do not get me started about the time a rip-off mechanic attempted to tell my daughter that her engine was seized.... MAMA BEAR 🐻 came out and proved her engine was just fine with a 15 mm socket and. rachet. Oh, in case you had not figured out, I am a woman, nearly 60 years old, and now do ALL the work on my vehicles.
Where do you find the hardware and seals to replace the old equipment ? Doing something similar for my project and am having a hell of a time finding the parts to replace.
Back in the 90's at a certain very large ford dealership in Tampa,, We would only get paid 1.5 hours flat rate to do a COMPLETE BRAKE JOB,, Meaning remove rotors and machine,repack the wheel bearings,rebuild the calipers,install the new pads,,and test drive,, I can tell you that alot of calipers didn't get rebuilt!!!! Also for caliper slide grease ford uses dielectric grease,, Save the antiseaze for spark plug threads,,,and never have I ever needed to put that orange stuff on a vehicle!!!
I've been turning wrenches now for 20 yrs and have never had to put pookie on the brake pads to keep them from making noises. Not saying it doesn't work. Just never had that problem.
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![Brake caliper repair [AUTODOC TUTORIAL]](/img/1.gif)
Guys... It's not RTV. It's CRC Disc Brake Quiet.
Im not sure what world we live in where people dont know what CRC brake quiet looks like.
It bonds the brake pad to the caliper and that changes the total resonate frequency of the assembly. The brake pad is bonded to the caliper with a easy to disassemble glue that requires the brake pad to now vibrate the entire caliber before it squeals, so it wont squeal with braking vibration.
Yes you can use grease. Synthetic, of course, purple, black, orange, rots seals, go on and on, wives tales up the ass, they are applied to do the same job, just stop squeals, and your preference is yours and don't freaking matter to the next guy.
Personally I like brake quiet on the pads as once its set, water, rain, etc cant wash it away. Ever look at the back of old pads? They rust because water got in there, and no amount of grease will keep it out unless you are changing pads every year, and that means you drive like a dick anyway and no one cares what you think.
@@sc5015 It's not a world I want to live in Steve. The woke Libs have banned teaching about CRC products in public schools and all the kids learn about now is anti-seize. Pathetic.
The great thing about jeep brakes is you don't need that shit. But upsell it anyway. Just more of a hassle then it needs to be down the road. Not needed at all.
Install the piston dust boot first then place piston against boot and use your air. Dust boot will surround piston for easy install.
Привет! Из какого материала сделаны новые поршни тормоза?
Growing up on a farm in the snowy, muddy, road-salted north east, I learned to love red grease. I had a rule: there can never be enough red grease. We kept a big can of it around with an actual paint brush. If I unthreaded it, I cleaned and greased it. If I disassembled it, it got cleaned and greased. Eventually, you forget what its like to fight with a stuck bolt. 30 minute disassemblies take 3 minutes. Well worth it.
Thank you for that idea, I'm doing a build on a 1949 dodge pickup that's been daily driven since the day it was bought until about 5 years ago when it began to sit so EVERYTHING is rusty and stuck. When putting it back together I'll have to remember the bucket and brush
@@garrett591 what a great project!! Do NOT give up until its your daily runner! Good luck!
Bro.. Make a youtube channel on restoration.. It would be great..
i even brush my teeth with red grease lol...
I actually like the 'mistake', I watch these videos to prepare mentally to do a project, and a reminder that each action needs patience or it will cost me, is a good thing!
As someone who owns three jeep 4.0s (XJ, XJ, TJ) I am so glad the algorithm gods landed your video in my feed the other day. Loving watching all these parts I recognize and have worked on for years getting the love they deserve.
Awesome video, no music, no bull.... straight to the point.
Nice rebuild, I recommend a bit of anti-sieze compound on the threads of the bleeder screws though. Plus, rebuilding your calipers does ensure it's done right, so don't apologize for rebuilding something especially when the stuff made/rebuilt today is lower quality.
I usually buy new coated ones for two vehicles. Road salt does a number on the calipers, eh? And thanks for reminding me. I gotta add anti-seize on my caliper bleeder screws.
I believe teflon tape may be a better option than anti-seize. If you're going to use grease, use brake grease, because it's safe if it enters the brake system.
This is a good skill refresher for other calipers that aren't as simple to replace though. Helpful and informative.
Loved watching this one. When you missed the dust cap seal and re-blasted and re-coated the powder proved you actually care about the quality of your content. Great work!! I feel like I am ready to do the same to my brake calipers!!
Excellent video, thank you so much for keeping your mistakes and the solution!! Far too many youtubers need the "perfect" video and then everyone that watches the video has no idea what mistakes can be made.
I stumbled across your channel the other day, subscribed, and been watching through your restoration of this vehicle. I am really envious of your welding and fabrication skills, those are some top notch TIG welds you have going.
Please be sure to include your mistakes!! Your videos are so clean and without any BS, showing the mistakes will give everyone watching a heads up and hopefully they don't make the same.
OMG the lighting, camera work, editing ... Thank you !
Nice job taking the time to re-blast nicely done.
One of the best videography on RUclips. Content was fantastic as well. Thank you.
Keep them coming! My current favorite videos on RUclips
this series on the jeep has given me plenty of ideas for my own project car
good ol bronco :D
Should have used grease on the caliper slide bolts. That spray on oil will cook off when the calipers start getting hot.
I wondered why but it’s still great craftsmanship
Actually silicone grease.
@@zachariasvan3965word.
silicone grease, oil based grease will degrade the rubber boots.
@@saeedhossain6099 nope it wont.
Have you ever caught any mistakes in the repairs while editing the videos? Love what you're doing!
Nice job. I worked for a braking system company for 30 odd years. And was lucky enough to get anything like that done while I was on shift.
Currently restoring my XJ too and these vids are amazing! Keep em coming!
За пыльник отдельное спасибо!! Думал что после проделанной работы уже не станешь заморачиваться, а нет.. Молодец что не поленился и переделал!!!!! 👍👍👍
Wow, a lot of arm chair mechanics here! First, great job! I had a caliper I had to replace on a daily driver ASAP. Got one at a typical parts place that was painted grey. Bought a rebuild kit for other side for future use, cause that's they way I am. The "new" grey one locked up 6 months later. Took it apart, and found grey paint over spray in the bore about half way. Must be epoxy paint because the brake fluid did not remove it. But it swelled enough to jam the piston. It did take 120psi on my compressor to remove it, and wow, did it pop when it let go! Removed paint width brass wire brush, used the rebuild kit intended for other side, and fixed. Now, no where near what you did, just a driveway rebuild. But "new" parts suck sometimes.
Rebuilt in my town lifetime warranty 18.00 ea. MICHIGAN
I feel like there should be grease on the sliding pin in the rubbers? Am i wrong with this?
Great vid, super satisfying :D
Correct, silicone grease
Plastic grease
That was great to watch, I'm glad you decided to leave the mistake in there, we're all humans and we all make mistakes from time to time. Hope you don't mind me adding this but I got a tip that might save yourself out someone else a head ache, when using the compressor to blow out the pistons put a thin piece of wood in between the piston and the caliper, as they can come out at some velocity and someone's the piston shatters/chips. If you're reusing them it's costly and for god's sake keep your fingers out the way of the piston.
A little much on the anti-noise grease I'd say. A mere light smear does the job. But nice rebuild project anyway... Thumbs Up!
I've never used that stuff, nor needed it, just put some grease in the pins and under the clips to prevent rust jacking. Never found the anti noise grease as needed.
It looks like silicone but not grease ...
@@sirhenrypatschislewsky5248 You would be wrong on both.
Glad to see you didn’t just paint lip after forgetting remove steel seal ring 👍🏻😉.
looks great but do recommend torquing the brake line to spec because those copper crush washers can only crush a certain way once. and they like their specific torque, definitely recommend a type of brake grease on the slide pins. but overall looks good!
You do awesome work, I love the attention to detail
Buying remanufactured calipers is a gamble. Just had one seize the other day, good thing it happened not far from home.
Pappy use to say; "Boy don't be scared. You'll never learn a damn thing if you're afraid to make a mistake." Thanks Pappy. RIP.
Good job with this btw. You learned a lot here.
Good job !
Phenolic piston, I didn't see that for a while !
13:33 why is the pad looking not centered ? I hope is only a visual effect due to camera angle.
Very nice job! Thanks to you, i knew there was an extra ring in there... got it out and continuing restore... caliper nr.2 is up
Another excellent video, well edited and no talking or music to ruin the proper sounds. Thank you again, I watch all your videos. Does anybody know what that fog painting technique is? I've never seen this before, It seems very effective, Jim.
It's powder coating.
@@geraldschrader8511 Thanks Gerald, is this abetter method than hi temp paint? I cant stand rusty looking calipers, Jim
@@aerialrescuesolutions3277 I know that powder coating seems to be popular for calipers but I don't know if it handles high temps better than regular high temp paint. Powder coating is supposed to be tougher than regular paint though.
@@geraldschrader8511 Hi-temp paint requirement is a myth. They don't get that hot.
THANK YOU! NICELY DONE and you answered my question..I have never seen "that" product before..will investigate
When connecting the brake hose line you put the copper crush washer between the hose fitting and hex bolt. It goes between the hose fitting and the caliber body to seal the connection. Of course when you fill the system with fluid and hit the brakes you'll have fluid all over the place until you fix that connection. Read the manual. Also no thread sealer on the bleeder ports, they will leak within a month of driving.
Very good work ❤️❤️
So jealous of how well your blast cabinet works. What size compressor do you have? Gravity feed? Glad to see the rest of truck magically restored itself while you were doing the calipers. Such a nice feeling to make something so crusty clean enough to eat off of.
Fun fact...the Dana 30 calipers CAN be installed bass ackwards....left to right right to left....leaving a nice bubble of air trapped above the bleed screw.......took me three days to figure that one out.....
First video in a long time was seen somebody was doing the job correctly and well skilled with proper equipment better than the rebuilders
Aww thanks ♥️
Nice job. From rusty to brand new. Nice.
Cool video bro. It's fun messing around with cars. They turned out great
What a transformation. Great job.
I'd have soaked them in citric acid prior to disassembly. Two days in strong, hot citric acid bath gets rid of all the rust, but doesn't penetrate any seals. ;)
Although If I know my cylinders are rotten, I'll disassemble them before soaking in acid bath.
I've never taken a brake rebuild this far, but there are times where rebuilding is your only option.
Being a glutton for punishment and driving older German cars, this is definitely something I've had to do a couple of times...
Can you do a “tools and techniques” video? I want to see how you have those long shaft wire brushes set up with the hose to keep them together and prevent scratching.
Great work keep it up ❤️🔥
@ 12:32 So does a light smear of Copper Right Grease;... with a temperature range of -40'c to + 1150'c
This was how it used to be done.. Good work
What if you dont have sand blaster? Any recommendations for fellow DIYers?
Almost an ASMR. Great video!!
Good Job 😎😉👍
Muy buen video, saludos desde Chile... Se ve tan fácil de hacer,.... Muchas gracias por hacer el video
I'm not sure how long those wooden pistons will last!
Wood cant rust, its better. 😀
@@thelizardus ⁴4⁴
Teflon 100%
They are made out of phenolic ,,its like a type of plastic ,,,used instead of metal for weight savings/fuel economy
😅
You should have used brake lubricant by permatex. Was that goop silicone?
3M silicone paste
Telling somebody what to use... while not knowing what they used. Classic internet.
although we didn’t see you fit the ring that you forgot to remove the first time but well done for leaving in the bloopers!
When you rebuild you own calipers, you know what you end up with. When you buy calipers, you have no idea whether they used crap parts or seals. I rebuild my calipers using OEM rebuild kits so I end up with OEM quality calipers. I've compared rebuild kits from rock-auto to OEM and the OEM kits have much better rubber in the gaskets and seals.
When you buy new, you know you have new.
Nice job ! 👍
I was wondering when you were gonna catch that. When you first took off the dust boot I was wondering why you didn't pry out the ring to begin with.
Cuz am moron
I wouldn't say that, there were some calipers that didn't have a metal ring to hold them in place. The ones I thought were hard to get the dust boot seated were the GM dust boots from the very late 60's through the 80's or so. Had a machinist friend of mine see me having difficulty installing a GM dust boot and he asked if he could borrow a boot and a couple weeks later, he had made a driver for me to install them.
@@RestorationStation ,🤭
Those look just like the rear calipers on my 2005 grand Cherokee
If you feel like a challenge, try rebuilding Lexus rear calipers with opposing pistons plus retaining clips. You'll reach new depths with your language though 😁😁😁
Amazing as always!
Me: No way he can restore this
Restoration Station: Hold my 🔧
cool job 👍
I like doing this when I powder coat calipers, very satisfying process
Was just wondering why you installed the slide pins and boots with no grease ?
The copper washer u tap the bolt that hold the break line called a mash seal it can leak if you don’t seal it properly. Just tighten the bolt don’t usually seal them. Tap bolt then tight good to go.
Este video es exactamente lo que estaba buscando 😮😮😮😮
soon your gonna finish restoring this car..im excited to see the outcome.
👍👍👍Great job!
What is the name of that spray you used for lubricating the pins? I thought everyone uses some sort of grease there.
Awesome work 👍👍
Well I was going to call you a psychopath for the red rtv looking rtv but apparently it's called disc brake quiet. Idk if the sound is meant to be asmr and I'm missing the point but it is. Great vids, I look forward to the Jeep completion.
Very nice job 👍well done.
Welp, now I learnt how brakes work, good job! :-)
The video is very satisfactory. Please upload it frequently in the future.
Can you share the camera used for shooting?
I'm Korean and I'm using Google Translator
It's a good camera, I would also like to know what camera is being used.
Wow editing is very similar to our.Great content bro!Greetings from Germany
great video----im getting ready to rebuild 1947 Lincoln Continental- disc front and rear ---thanks
Cette vidéo je les vue au moins 5 fois , j'adore ce travaille merci
Did they hold ? Nice work
Just did this with my quad calipers on my tundra a month ago. Successfully rebuild two out of four. One was rusted too bad and had to be replaced. The other got rebuild and was the final one to be reinstalled. When I went to bleed the brakes the bleeder screw snapped off in the caliper…then the screw extractor snapped off in the bleeder. So that got replaced with a new caliper 😂
I've never seen someone put that stuff (whatever it is) on the backs of the pads. What is it and why is it there? I do brake jobs all the time and can only speculate as to what it is.
Great work 👏 👍
направляющие не смазал . штуцера прокачки закрутил тоже на сухую..
я эти косяки заметил.
Я что-то отстал от жизни: зачем колодки на герметик клеить?
@@Oleg13916 наверно чтоб не вибрировали. По легенде вибрация вызывает скрип. Как сделано в иномарках-в суппорт вставляется деталь из нержавейки. Она подпружинивает колодки . они ходят туго и не скрипят.
What type media do you use in your blast cabinet? And outdoors?
What the oven temp for the powder coat? I did calipers at 250 and it came out mush? Not clean like these.
Amazing job
Muy buen video. Así es como cc tiene que dar el mantenimiento . Muy completo cambio todos los empakes. Los discos nuevos . Balatas nuevas. Mm gusto su video. No cualquier mecánico . Realiza el trabajo completo. Aka en méxico tt cobran por media labor.
its been a while, but are there any more jeep videos coming? Ive watched these all about 6x each and Im a big fan of seeing someone put so much effort into bringing a big XJ back
Damn I really appreciate that massive praise. I have 3 or 4 XJ videos 90% recorded and done that will be released in the coming months. I also have 3 non-XJ videos 90% done that I want to release soon as well that will probably come out first. I've been banking a lot of footage and editing that hasn't been released yet
@@RestorationStation awesome! can't wait to see the new vids. I had a lifted 2 door 1988 XJ when I was a kid and I really miss that thing so its great to see someone keeping one alive and making it better than jeep did
Crc disc brake quiet? I'll check that out. Sorry for not reading the pinned comment first
BEAUTIFUL JOB !!!
I put new pistons in my calipers once. Then, when I took it in for new brake pads about 2 years later, the idiots at Midas Brakes messed stuff up so bad, that I did not have any brakes 8 miles later!!! They said they replaced the calipers. I said, "Oh, show me the old ones." They said, "Uh, we threw them away already." They LIED!!! I had proof! When I replaced the pistons, the person helping me cross-threaded the bleeder valve... and it is funny how that one bleeder valve was STILL in the place where I left it... on my front right caliper!!!
Word to the wise, mechanics... just because a WOMAN may pay you for your time and effort, never assume the women have no knowledge about things "mechanical." I took my car to the company because I was now working full-time, and did not have the time to do the work myself.
...
And do not get me started about the time a rip-off mechanic attempted to tell my daughter that her engine was seized.... MAMA BEAR 🐻 came out and proved her engine was just fine with a 15 mm socket and. rachet.
Oh, in case you had not figured out, I am a woman, nearly 60 years old, and now do ALL the work on my vehicles.
AvE does restoration videos too?
Proffesional job
I always use a torque wrench on brake caliper line banjo bolts
Good work. 💯👌🏻
Where do you find the hardware and seals to replace the old equipment ? Doing something similar for my project and am having a hell of a time finding the parts to replace.
If it's a Jeep,you get everything on Amazon. I did and I trust my service more than the remanufactured ones.
Back in the 90's at a certain very large ford dealership in Tampa,,
We would only get paid 1.5 hours flat rate to do a COMPLETE BRAKE JOB,,
Meaning remove rotors and machine,repack the wheel bearings,rebuild the calipers,install the new pads,,and test drive,,
I can tell you that alot of calipers didn't get rebuilt!!!!
Also for caliper slide grease ford uses dielectric grease,,
Save the antiseaze for spark plug threads,,,and never have I ever needed to put that orange stuff on a vehicle!!!
I've been turning wrenches now for 20 yrs and have never had to put pookie on the brake pads to keep them from making noises. Not saying it doesn't work. Just never had that problem.
No grease on the slide pins?
Всё чисто и опрятно отличная работа 👌🏻👏
Great job!!👍🏻
Gone wrong?
I think you did a nice job there!