Ok, Ok I will help you out for those that are stuck and can't get the pads back in (E36 etc). So no matter which way you try like the guy in the video there isn't enough space right? Remove the sliding pins, put the pads in and then put the sliding bracket over the pads (copper grease etc.), finish it off with screwing the pins back in. Also you will notice fitting the sliding pins from this side allows you to load them up with much more silicone grease.....you're welcome! it's how you would have done it if they were mounted on the car by not removing the entire caliper, leaving the bracket on.
That terrazzo floor is the best, durable, smooth, easy to clean, looks great. There's nothing like it for an immaculate workshop. What a great base for your new working environment!
When I was a much younger fella, I worked in an electroplating shop. Firstly, we used metal hanging brackets as they gave greater conductivity and surface area contact, but!..... Secondly, when we had odd shaped items we knew would not plate well, we always added an additional contact wire as close to the affected area, this extra wire would help spread the current more evenly and efficiently hence increasing said area of electrical excitement and attracting more of the energised particles. Seemed to garner better results for us, I'm going back 40 years so technology may have improved since then.
They have custom racks now with selectable paths. So you coat section A then disable that one's path, and start path B and so on. Visited a plating business for antique restoration recently.
You should get some big rubber sheet and put it on the tables. It will look nice, you wont damage the wood and most importantly its super easy to clean. Also put some at least 5mm plate under your vice to eliminate the flex when you were removing the brake lines at 4:40. Keep up the good work, your videos are my inspiration
This is just my opinion. A great part of enjoying restoration videos is seeing how it looks at the end. You show the end product in the thumbnail, taking away the “surprise” - the “wow” factor.
Dude thank you. This video is two weeks late. I am so frustrated, it's unreal. I have another video completely ready because of a postal issue. Expect a lot more content soon. More than one video a week. I'm still getting on my feet in Spain, it's a right pain in the ass. But soon I'll be there and the content will flow.
@@RestoreIt How are things going for you in Spain? I'd really like a video where you just talk about the reasons for moving, how you chose where you are, pros and cons etc
Electroplating only works when there is clear line-of-sight between the anode and cathode. If the inside of the caliper did not directly face a plate the zinc will not transfer.
In addition to PHATJANUS and rustmans comments you need good current density throughout the part. The current will take the path of least resistance, in a larger part like the front calipers you didn't get much current through the underside there. So more current and/or you can also try moving your contacts around for a better result. AND If you're going to be plating parts at home BAKE THEM after. With zinc nickel plating and acid pickling you are at risk of introducing hydrogen into the microstructure of the steel and making it brittle. It's really only of concern for hardened parts but as a safe bet it won't hurt to just bake everything. Look up hydrogen embrittlememt for some recommended times and temps, but you want to bake those parts within an hour of plating/passivating for a couple hours at 180C or so. Keep up the good work!
@@patricklandusky7467 You seem to know your stuff. In the video he plates the sliding pins and the inside of the bits that the pistons sit in, would that interfere with their operation as you're adding a layer of zinc to something that should already be a very tight fit?
@@KineticLatency The pistons should be sliding on the seals, which will be a smaller diameter than the inside of the cylinder, so a thin layer of zinc shouldn't affect it.
It's so nice watching these videos knowing that if I want to learn a better way to do it all I have to do is read the comments from all of the couch blistered experts.
Cant imagine a lot of used brake calipers that gets to go through this deluxe spa treatment. Looking pro with that putty to mask surfaces from the blasting. +1
You don't need so much copper anti-seize on the back of the brake pads. A light coat near the contact point is fine. Now the copper anti-seize is just going to collect brake dust and look nasty bro
@noxxi knox i get at least 4 cars in a day with rubber backed pads for break squeal. throw some antiseize on the back of the pads and it works every time.
During the zinc plating I noticed a little taste of nostalgia in the background...the label container drawer organizer. Yep that was always there in the old shop in view. Glad it's still around. Relief.
Another method is to leave the pistons and seals in place, then remove the brake lines and seal the opening with another brake bleed screw (usually it’ll be the same thread as the brake line). The bleed screws are cheap and you can plug the end with silicone or something. This lets you sandblast every surface that will be exposed to the elements, then you remove the old stuff and clean the inside of the caliper by hand
Wow, they look beautiful. Great work. I rebuilt mine a couple years ago. I didn't have access to a blaster for the rust, so just soaked the calipers in a couple gallons of vinegar. That actually worked really well. I need to learn more about your zinc plating process..... that looks highly interesting.
Hi, Steve! Your new shop is awesome! Your brakes turned out really nice. I like how you have a system to plate/coat them. Your car is going to be a show piece. I'm saving up now so I can get over there for a ride once it's finished. Hahaha! See you soon in the next video. Take care, my friend.
Interesting your work great detains. Thanks you very much for all steps. I have seen 3 o 4 times that video and I tell you I am not tired. I live in Nashua NH and I am becoming to be your fan.
Nice refurbish and rebuild. I realize you could have simply bought new or rebuilt ones, but now you know that are truly good and no worries if rebuilt ones will actually work. Not all the rebuilt parts you purchase in any auto parts store are good and quality reworked. I know that first hand... Thumbs Up!
Great job, what a transformation. They're better than new and will look fantastic on the car. How much longer do you think it will be till you start to actually rebuild the car. I think it will be priceless when it's done due to the immaculate detail you go to on all the restoration. Can't wait to see it.
You are very brave having your fingers so close to the piston when popping it out lol, usually i will lay a folded up towel on top of the caliper just in case things go wrong.
You do such excellent work ! I have been watching since you started this project and have enjoyed every video . Looking forward to seeing the finished project .
im not sure, but did you make your workbenches from MDF? if so you should put a different sheet if wood on top. oil and water will desolve the binding glues and MDF will swell and fall apart. then you get all these holes in your table, and weird MDF fibers on all the stuff your working on.
in this video he deals qith calipers that have recently been in use ....as the pistons popped out with just a bit of air pressure... being a mechanic i have come across hundreds of seized pistons in calipers that will not "pop" out with air no matter how much pressure is applied, the solution i found was to use a grease gun, simply take off the nipple tip and screw the thread into the hose thread on the caliper ...you can now apply 3000 psi of hydraulic pressure at a very controlled rate.... the piston "WILL COME OUT". every time, then its just a matter of cleaning the grease out of the caliper, this whole process takes 5 mins if you have the tools at hand, if you dont have a grease gun, go and buy a cheap pump action one. its so worth it
If you ever wanna take those retainer clips off again you push them down(awards the two middle moles, and pull out, saves time and prevents wear :) great work you're doing here man!
For future reference, use lacquer (in 5 thin coats) on the MDF. MDF sucks it up really quick and becomes quite durable. Now, it's a bit late since it's contaminated, but keep it in mind if you ever redo the bench tops.
Regarding the missing Zn plating. There are two possibilities: cleanliness or shadowing. I am speculating, but believe the issue is more shadowing and geometry related. Did you pre-charge your electrolyte? This will get a lot more Zn into solution. despite having 4 plates in the bucket, it helps to rotate the part.
Thanks for the comment man. How do I pre charge the solution? I feel like it plated with zinc alright, I double plated the fronts. Its was just the passivate that didn't stick in those places. Which is why i'm confused.
@@RestoreIt To charge, run without a part. essentially, you'reetting Zn dissolve in the solution. + to one Zn plate, - to another and let it go for a while (30-45min) . After a while, the reaction will continue even without a charge depending on your electrolyte. The chromate will only adhere to plated sections. so after plating, you can rinse and acid dip, then rinse again. For the dip, you must be gentle (what I've read). You may need to have more fluid in your bucket, but you need to continue to move the part while in there. It took some playing around with my setup to get it right. Parts look great where plated.
You should try running a dust collection/air filter system on the blast cabinet. They make a world of difference. They suck out the dust on one end while sucking in clean air on the other. When the system fills you just dump it back into the blast cabinet.
People always wonder why it cost so much to have a caliber rebuilt they don't realize how much time and effort goes into reconstruction those calibers. Most garage is just replace the brake pad or the Piston if it goes bad they don't do all the extra cleaning like you did
Cleaning is irrelevant... If you replace the square cut seal and dust boot you can consider your caliper to be rebuilt. Everything else is just cosmetics
Although complete restoration means cosmetic as well. I helped restore a Silver Shadow and we cosmetically fixed everything turned around and sold the car for 1.5 million Euro.
@@RestoreIt £80/hr plus the vat and then when you finally decide to do it yourself, you uncover everything they couldn't be bothered to do but still charged you for! 💰💰💰
Beautiful job as always. I always put a high temp clear over zinc plated calipers. Just about all wheel cleaners are acidic and will burn the zinc right off.
![Kodak Black - Versatile 4 [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VcP_1Ua__vY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
Ok, Ok I will help you out for those that are stuck and can't get the pads back in (E36 etc). So no matter which way you try like the guy in the video there isn't enough space right? Remove the sliding pins, put the pads in and then put the sliding bracket over the pads (copper grease etc.), finish it off with screwing the pins back in. Also you will notice fitting the sliding pins from this side allows you to load them up with much more silicone grease.....you're welcome!
it's how you would have done it if they were mounted on the car by not removing the entire caliper, leaving the bracket on.
wasted so much time trying to do it like this guy shouldve checked the comments first
That terrazzo floor is the best, durable, smooth, easy to clean, looks great. There's nothing like it for an immaculate workshop. What a great base for your new working environment!
Thank you Wilmer! A lot of people have suggested i cover it, but i also quite like it.
Yes, but spraying paint around...no sheeting or spray booth, (cardboard box will do.. hmmm
When I was a much younger fella, I worked in an electroplating shop.
Firstly, we used metal hanging brackets as they gave greater conductivity and surface area contact, but!..... Secondly, when we had odd shaped items we knew would not plate well, we always added an additional contact wire as close to the affected area, this extra wire would help spread the current more evenly and efficiently hence increasing said area of electrical excitement and attracting more of the energised particles.
Seemed to garner better results for us, I'm going back 40 years so technology may have improved since then.
They have custom racks now with selectable paths. So you coat section A then disable that one's path, and start path B and so on. Visited a plating business for antique restoration recently.
It’s always nice during a busy day to pump the brakes (so to speak), kick back and watch another awesome video of yours! Thanks for posting!!
You should get some big rubber sheet and put it on the tables. It will look nice, you wont damage the wood and most importantly its super easy to clean. Also put some at least 5mm plate under your vice to eliminate the flex when you were removing the brake lines at 4:40. Keep up the good work, your videos are my inspiration
Thank you Jondra! You read my mind. All of this to come in the workshop videos!
Buy you a set of flare wrenches also, it will help you not strip out your hose connectors.
@@RestoreIt Could also consider a sheet of acrylic for the disassembly bench, even easier to clean, and easily replaced. Also extremely cheap.
It must be so much nicer doing this work in the new shop/workspace.
It's amazing thank you Aaron. A lot more walking but I'm getting used to it. The shop is only 20% finished, so I have a lot of work ahead of me.
@@RestoreIt Only 20 percent?? Wow I can't wait to see what else you have planned!
Agreed
This is so satisfying!! Specially the zinc coating. Good job!
This is just my opinion. A great part of enjoying restoration videos is seeing how it looks at the end. You show the end product in the thumbnail, taking away the “surprise” - the “wow” factor.
Im always watching your videoes..
Please hurry up we need more videos in week:(
Dude thank you.
This video is two weeks late. I am so frustrated, it's unreal. I have another video completely ready because of a postal issue.
Expect a lot more content soon. More than one video a week. I'm still getting on my feet in Spain, it's a right pain in the ass. But soon I'll be there and the content will flow.
@@RestoreIt Come to Germany when ur car is ready
@@RestoreIt How are things going for you in Spain? I'd really like a video where you just talk about the reasons for moving, how you chose where you are, pros and cons etc
@@RestoreIt Power plug should be protected more from liquid.
Time to christen the new workshop with an E30 restoration video!
Oh hell yes! So many more to come :)
Restore It can’t wait to see them!
Electroplating only works when there is clear line-of-sight between the anode and cathode. If the inside of the caliper did not directly face a plate the zinc will not transfer.
Your plating solution also needs movement... this video might help you...ruclips.net/video/Nmn94B5UUuU/видео.html
In addition to PHATJANUS and rustmans comments you need good current density throughout the part. The current will take the path of least resistance, in a larger part like the front calipers you didn't get much current through the underside there. So more current and/or you can also try moving your contacts around for a better result.
AND If you're going to be plating parts at home BAKE THEM after. With zinc nickel plating and acid pickling you are at risk of introducing hydrogen into the microstructure of the steel and making it brittle. It's really only of concern for hardened parts but as a safe bet it won't hurt to just bake everything. Look up hydrogen embrittlememt for some recommended times and temps, but you want to bake those parts within an hour of plating/passivating for a couple hours at 180C or so.
Keep up the good work!
@@patricklandusky7467 You seem to know your stuff. In the video he plates the sliding pins and the inside of the bits that the pistons sit in, would that interfere with their operation as you're adding a layer of zinc to something that should already be a very tight fit?
@@KineticLatency The pistons should be sliding on the seals, which will be a smaller diameter than the inside of the cylinder, so a thin layer of zinc shouldn't affect it.
@@KineticLatency thats why he left the seal in place till the finish.
Wow. Just love your videos. I know nothing about cars but I can watch you all day!
Hello you are not shy when it comes to hard work l swear you did everything the hard way but l was entertaining thank you so much for sharing
I am really excited to see the fully restored E30
This channel is so addictive. Nice work. Cannot wait to see this car completed!
You should paint it red
It will give you extra 20 whp
dont you mean bhp??😂😂
And +25 bhp for yellow one
@@Niggabalzz wheel horsepower is more relevant than brake horsepowers, you can lose a lot of power between the engine and wheels.
@@CA-gy4qf i said BRAKE hp because he is restoring the BRAKES😂 come on man it was just a joke
@@Niggabalzz that one went way over my head I'll admit 😂
It's so nice watching these videos knowing that if I want to learn a better way to do it all I have to do is read the comments from all of the couch blistered experts.
This is gonna be the cleanest E30 on the planet when it's finished.
Cant imagine a lot of used brake calipers that gets to go through this deluxe spa treatment. Looking pro with that putty to mask surfaces from the blasting. +1
The metal plating is gorgeous. Very good work.
You don't need so much copper anti-seize on the back of the brake pads. A light coat near the contact point is fine. Now the copper anti-seize is just going to collect brake dust and look nasty bro
And now the sky will fall because of it.
@noxxi knox Yes, that sky is so full of that nasty C02
@noxxi knox i get at least 4 cars in a day with rubber backed pads for break squeal. throw some antiseize on the back of the pads and it works every time.
@noxxi knox True that, cant be having the people smelling cow farts.
@noxxi knox They're all cars with electronic e-brakes. Ebrake digs into the rubber and gets stuck onto the picton.
Děkuji za video, vysoce kvalitní obraz fotoaparátu. Good job!
I can't wait to see your brand new BMW
Nice one Steve!
Чувак, ты лучший! Просто красавчик! Терпения тебе !
これはどう？ あなたはそれを読むことができますか？
Сам кайфую просто,золотые руки ,так мотивирует !
Blyat !
Мороз Николаевич лайк тебе
Awesome as usual! Can’t wait to see the car rolling. 👍🏻
Thanks ZMO999! It wont be long!
lovely
back to brand new status
great detailed handiwork, patience, craftsmanship
thanks for taking the time to put this together
Keep on keepin on. Your inspireing me to do this with my car
Watching this makes me think I should finish off refurbing the wheels I've had in my garage for the last 6 months ;) Nice job, as always man :)
During the zinc plating I noticed a little taste of nostalgia in the background...the label container drawer organizer. Yep that was always there in the old shop in view. Glad it's still around. Relief.
Another method is to leave the pistons and seals in place, then remove the brake lines and seal the opening with another brake bleed screw (usually it’ll be the same thread as the brake line). The bleed screws are cheap and you can plug the end with silicone or something. This lets you sandblast every surface that will be exposed to the elements, then you remove the old stuff and clean the inside of the caliper by hand
Wow, they look beautiful. Great work. I rebuilt mine a couple years ago. I didn't have access to a blaster for the rust, so just soaked the calipers in a couple gallons of vinegar. That actually worked really well. I need to learn more about your zinc plating process..... that looks highly interesting.
Nice job man. They came out good. I hate breaks at the best of times, you made it look easy :) nice!
Thanks dude. It certainly was not easy haha.
Amazing! I love your work and you inspire me to restore my truck!... greetings from Argentina!
Thanks Yaikerz! Good to hear!
Brilliant restoration as always.
really addicted to your videos man , keep going
Hi, Steve! Your new shop is awesome! Your brakes turned out really nice. I like how you have a system to plate/coat them. Your car is going to be a show piece. I'm saving up now so I can get over there for a ride once it's finished. Hahaha! See you soon in the next video. Take care, my friend.
Your new shop is very nice.
Thank you, Gilbert. It's only around 20% finished. I have so much to do. As well as keeping the restoration videos coming. I'll get there :)
YOU ARE SIMPLY A BRILLIANT PERSON.... 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Great video, excellent work. The finished product looks awesome. Keep up the good videos 😀.
Zinc plating gives incredible results!
I liked the idea of outing the pressure blaster hose in the bead cabinet, I'll have to try that.
Interesting your work great detains. Thanks you very much for all steps. I have seen 3 o 4 times that video and I tell you I am not tired. I live in Nashua NH and I am becoming to be your fan.
Wow that playing came out great!
Nice refurbish and rebuild. I realize you could have simply bought new or rebuilt ones, but now you know that are truly good and no worries if rebuilt ones will actually work. Not all the rebuilt parts you purchase in any auto parts store are good and quality reworked. I know that first hand... Thumbs Up!
Tip.
Spray a light coat of oil on all zinc plated parts. It stops them from oxidizing which they will buddy. love the videos
Thanks Sat. Appreciate the advice.
Can't wait for the next shop update video! I love your videos!
When I get notification of a new video by you I stop whatever I'm doing and watch immediately. Love it!
Nice work! I love how the calipers came out looking. Well done and keep up the good work on this restoration journey. Be proud!
Great job, what a transformation. They're better than new and will look fantastic on the car. How much longer do you think it will be till you start to actually rebuild the car. I think it will be priceless when it's done due to the immaculate detail you go to on all the restoration. Can't wait to see it.
Phenomenal restoration
BMW Company Proud of you
just in time for my birthday
thanks :)
Happy birthday Justin :D
thanks
keep up with the quality because it's always a joy to watch your vids
Great work ! 👍🏻
You are very brave having your fingers so close to the piston when popping it out lol, usually i will lay a folded up towel on top of the caliper just in case things go wrong.
You do such excellent work ! I have been watching since you started this project and have enjoyed every video . Looking forward to seeing the finished project .
That's a great result.
Good to see those new benches get a coat of grime!
im not sure, but did you make your workbenches from MDF? if so you should put a different sheet if wood on top. oil and water will desolve the binding glues and MDF will swell and fall apart. then you get all these holes in your table, and weird MDF fibers on all the stuff your working on.
Sweet finished product!
i get so excited when there's a new upload.
Brilliant, absolutely fine ... my Led Zeppelin of restoring videos ...
Looking good! Back to spec with a little bit of elbow grease!
They had excellent condition.
Very nice work. Excellent results.
Very Nice Job Bro Those Came Out Factory New
They look amazing! Awesome!
in this video he deals qith calipers that have recently been in use ....as the pistons popped out with just a bit of air pressure... being a mechanic i have come across hundreds of seized pistons in calipers that will not "pop" out with air no matter how much pressure is applied, the solution i found was to use a grease gun, simply take off the nipple tip and screw the thread into the hose thread on the caliper ...you can now apply 3000 psi of hydraulic pressure at a very controlled rate.... the piston "WILL COME OUT". every time, then its just a matter of cleaning the grease out of the caliper, this whole process takes 5 mins if you have the tools at hand, if you dont have a grease gun, go and buy a cheap pump action one. its so worth it
You really took the hard way to pull those apart
If you ever wanna take those retainer clips off again you push them down(awards the two middle moles, and pull out, saves time and prevents wear :) great work you're doing here man!
I’m going to have to watch all the BMW videos again to get a feel for how many parts we have done and how many are left to be done.
For future reference, use lacquer (in 5 thin coats) on the MDF. MDF sucks it up really quick and becomes quite durable. Now, it's a bit late since it's contaminated, but keep it in mind if you ever redo the bench tops.
Regarding the missing Zn plating. There are two possibilities: cleanliness or shadowing. I am speculating, but believe the issue is more shadowing and geometry related. Did you pre-charge your electrolyte? This will get a lot more Zn into solution. despite having 4 plates in the bucket, it helps to rotate the part.
Thanks for the comment man. How do I pre charge the solution? I feel like it plated with zinc alright, I double plated the fronts. Its was just the passivate that didn't stick in those places. Which is why i'm confused.
@@RestoreIt To charge, run without a part. essentially, you'reetting Zn dissolve in the solution. + to one Zn plate, - to another and let it go for a while (30-45min) . After a while, the reaction will continue even without a charge depending on your electrolyte.
The chromate will only adhere to plated sections. so after plating, you can rinse and acid dip, then rinse again. For the dip, you must be gentle (what I've read). You may need to have more fluid in your bucket, but you need to continue to move the part while in there. It took some playing around with my setup to get it right. Parts look great where plated.
Woow excellent 👍 very good 👍
nice work
Nice job
You should try running a dust collection/air filter system on the blast cabinet. They make a world of difference. They suck out the dust on one end while sucking in clean air on the other. When the system fills you just dump it back into the blast cabinet.
well done young man!
Peace of art ! Wow
Thanks man!
Hello, Very good restoration. For my painted taste they will be better. I love your channel greetings from Argentina
Very good restoration bro 👍👍👍👏👏👏👏
Thanks man!
Excellent job
Sick resto! Thank you for sharing.
You definitely don’t do things by half measures. All power to you!
You should do a compilation video of the parts you've done vs the parts left to do. Even pictures
People always wonder why it cost so much to have a caliber rebuilt they don't realize how much time and effort goes into reconstruction those calibers. Most garage is just replace the brake pad or the Piston if it goes bad they don't do all the extra cleaning like you did
So true, you can see why some places charge £80 an hour. Its hard work for sure.
Cleaning is irrelevant... If you replace the square cut seal and dust boot you can consider your caliper to be rebuilt. Everything else is just cosmetics
Although complete restoration means cosmetic as well. I helped restore a Silver Shadow and we cosmetically fixed everything turned around and sold the car for 1.5 million Euro.
@@mjux89 pitted cylinder?
@@RestoreIt £80/hr plus the vat and then when you finally decide to do it yourself, you uncover everything they couldn't be bothered to do but still charged you for! 💰💰💰
Beautiful job as always. I always put a high temp clear over zinc plated calipers. Just about all wheel cleaners are acidic and will burn the zinc right off.
New workshop love and them calipers are shot
So as epic as this is. What’s next for the channel once this is all said and done? What can we look forward to in the future?
Beautiful result! Great job :)
The caliper also looks good in bare metal..nice work.
Yea until it trusts
Rusts
Great work
What took you so long! I seriously waited on the new vid from the restoration :)
cool safety glasses
New bench, nice.
Slick result!
16.11 the main project of restoration have sneak peek.... very good job my friend.
Nice job!
Great job mash'Allah
Awesome job n very interesting viewing. Thanks n keep up the good work...
i was lowkey aggravated at not removing the slide pins and then zinc plating them
cry