No do not use emerald for cabinets absolutely not. Emerald is one of the slowest drying times for water based urethanes out there. Emerald is a soft flexible trim paint. Airless wastes tons of paint doesn’t matter what pressure or tip size you’re using or what technique the best possible transfer efficiency with an airless is 40%. You absolutely must use a solvent based primer for oak cabinets to stop tannin bleed either BIN or a vinyl sealer before the top coat. If you can’t get your hands on solvent based primer use general finishes stain blocker primer or enduro undercoat. Hvlp 5 stage turbine ideally with a pressure pot system is the way to go. Waste less time masking the entire house and save on material as you can get transfer efficiency of 80% to 90%. Do not use emerald. It’s not a KCMA (Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturer’s Association) approved. If you want to use Sherwin William products, use either Vinyl sealer from them ideally in tandem with a fog coat of Zinsser BIN (NOT ADVANCED) over the bare surface then heavier coats of vinyl sealer. Airless puts on paint too heavy and you will have to move too fast to get good coverage with one coat. Emerald urethane sags and drips horribly on vertical surfaces you will need to use a .01 orifice or higher for it to not sheer so badly adding a thickener or a hardener to speed the dry time will help prevent sags and drips on verticals. But do not use emerald. Use Kem Aqua Plus, CAB lacquer, Kem Aqua, Gallery Series or Hydroplus if you’re using Sherwin William products. I prefer to fill the grain on oak with Aqua coat first before priming then after the first coat of vinyl sealer go back over the grain with bondo glazing putty and once fully dry, sand. Here’s a tip from years of experience vinyl sealer (lacquer) sands best when wet. Once the bondo and primer have been sanded smooth hit it with one to two more light coats of primer before the top coat. Use less coats on the back of the door save yourself money on materials. Use paper not plastic inside the boxes as the plastic will build up primer and paint then flake off if it has built up too much and it will fall into your paint job, paper will absorb the primer and paint and will not flake.
As a painter of 30 years, I can say you covered all the bases. I even picked up a few new tips from watching this. One step that I usually do is to give a quick sand after the prime coat. It makes the finish a little smoother. I hope people now realize why it can cost upwards of 10K to have a full set of kitchen cabinets painted professionally.
Yeah, I just had a quote for $7000, I couldn’t believe it. Question, instead of all that taping off before spraying, couldn’t you just tape a little and carefully brush it?
@tabcobra yes but the price will probably go up due to time and level of skill. Brush painting is no joke. I'm a professional who runs his own business.
Great Job and video. I am not 100% sure it is a good idea to caulk those seams in the door fronts. That center panel is usually meant to be able to expand and contract and usually does. I would wonder if those seams ever cracked. From my experience ALEX is one of the cheapest builder grade caulks you can use and even if it says anti shrink acrylic latex caulks all shrink. This is why good finish carpenters generally don't use it. A silconized caulk or paintable silicone would probably be a longer term option if that gap really bothers you. The center panel in a door is called a "Floating panel". The stiles around the panel has a lot of room so that the panel can expand/contract. Otherwise the joints of the door crack over time. Is there a long term follow up to this video? I am interested if you ever had cracking on the door fronts.
One more thing, I shoot the faces horizontally on a lazy Susan and one side at a time starting with the backs and on the sharp pyramids. This helps get all sides and nooks and crannies.
Painting cabinets doors and drawers are one of the most difficult tasks you can do. Brent, your video is a wonderful step-by-step guide for anyone wanted to take on the task. Thank you.
Good video, I’ve been doing this for some time and was able to pick up some tips. One thing I didn’t hear you mention, did you sand the primer? This is pretty important to achieve a smooth finish.
"Removing tape with a perfect crisp line is always satisfying in my book" Yes! I stare at my crisp lines as if they were the boy I was crushing on in 6th grade.
Hi, I have exact same cabinets and wanted paint them. However I was rold I have to remove the lacquer using some gooey stripping stuff. Your method seem easier. Will the paint last as long by removing lacquer vs sanding? Thanks
If you have the same type of cabinets you certainly don't need to strip them. Just Clean and prep them as I did and use a good quality primer. If your worries about grain coming through you could also use an oil primer. Thanks for watching.
Very nice video. I have kitchen cabinets VERY similar and was looking where to start with painting them. This video was incredibly informative and straight forward as well as including numerous helpful tips.
You make it seem so easy! But I know it’s a lot of tedious work. I hope I can do this next summer on my cabinets. Thank you for all the information and details. Wish me luck!
This is one of the best Cabinet repaint videos that I have seen. I was wondering how the primer has performed for blocking the oak tannins from bleeding through. Thanks
Do you really like how they turned out? From 10ft away they may look okay, but up close not so good. Why did you not use a grain filler to fill in the red oak grain? You can obviously see the grain @24:02 and @25:40. And finally @25:51, I am not sure that I would want my cabinets to look like that after all the hard work you put in. Oake cabinets are the hardest cabinet to paint and make them look good. These imperfections may be hard to see on a cell phone, but I am watching this on a large PC monitor and I can see all the imperfections.
I understand your thought process Johnny and I'm a bit of a perfectionist so there is a part of me that knows exactly what you are saying. However, these are 40 year old cabinets and they will never end up PERFECT. I could have added wood filler and suggested that to the client but that would obviously take extensive time to fill and sand these doors completely down. We didn't have the time or the budget to do that on this project. Hopefully in the future I can show off what that process is in future videos but I still LOVE the transformation of these cabinets. Thanks for watching.
Agreed. To make a full video as a youtuber it would have been wise to use a client with a different type of wood cabinets or with a budget high enough to fill the grain. Just this makes it look very DIY. The rest is great, especially his full step by step process
As a cabinet finisher myself, I’ve restored many cabinets and I agree that oak is the worst because of the aggressive grain pattern. The steps I’ve taken were based on the sanding steps. We always charge more for for oak so we start with 150 or 180grit which closes some of the grain. After 1st prime coat, sand with finer grit. After 1st top coat sand with finer grit like 220 and then apply last coat. I use Px sanding sealer from SW and top coat with Kem Aqua with hvlp. I think if you want to stay with your system you might have a smoother finish with a 308 or 310. I like your choice in caulking and you take very good steps with the prep. Still a great video for DIY!👌🏽
@@raulzamora8928 for laminate I would use either PX or BIN shellac based primer but I would use a coarse grit sandpaper on an orbital like 120grit to create a good tooth for the primer to stick. I would also wait until next day to do a scratch test before proceeding with topcoat. If the the primer sticks, the topcoat will stick to the primer 👌🏽
Extreme Bond primer? Lord please do not listen to this man. THIS IS HOW NOT TO PAINT YOUR CABINETS! Emerald is a trim paint, it is NOT a cabinet paint whatsoever. It will break down over a year due to hand oils. It's not made for high traffic areas like cabinets
This is great video, quality is great, advice is great. Buddy, you have too much microphone fidelity. We can hear the saliva moving inside your mouth while you speak. If this were an ASMR channel, and some people are into that, it wouldn't even register. But, and this is just my personal perspectiv, I just can't, I have to watch this on mute with subtitles. Too much dude, too much.
I thought about that but after I did a layer of paint I realized that the circulation wasn't going to be a big deal since that paint sprayer is a high efficiency sprayer. Thanks for watching.
I've followed your tutorial to the letter including the paint that you used and my cabinets look amazing. However, during the application of the finish paint, it appears that I didn't get enough paint on several cabinet doors. (and I ran out of paint) My question is: Can I get a small airless sprayer and add another coat of finish paint to the sections that appear to need more paint? Is there a time where it's too late to add more paint and keep that amazing finish? Thanks for your help! I look forward to following your work on the epoxy resin countertops, too!
@@BYOTools thanks for taking that how I meant it. You killed it, just a A LOT of tape. Inhave three kids running around, and that sounds like my idea of a bad time haha.
You can do all this process if they pay u like 5 k oh 7 k for a kitchen cabinets paint now people dont want pay not even 2 k 😂😂 now there primers that will save u all that work Benjamin more sales one primer is 100 dollar a gallon but it will stick to a fish 🐟 in water 😂
It’s 2 option or your clients be blind or you never do this before because everything what you do is completely wrong every people who use the sprayer those I’ve never use plastic around the place where you paint it because when paint be dry start flying around the place. Where you paint another coat also after sander the cheap sander like you definitely you can see round scratch on the cabinets and paint. What do you use evennot be close too high-quality
I don't agree with some of the things you did .the caulk you did on the door panels is not needed the panels float in the frame as they expand and contract all year long.caulking the cabinet to the wall ,why. caulking around the microwave so when that breaks what do you do then cut all that out to replace the micro.
great job. excellent tips/suggestions. I would have painted the kick plate and replaced the countertops first so as not to mess up the great paint job. Leaving the kickplate and other trim the wood color is like adding a 70s stripe to a modern kitchen. Cheap counters: I went to a few granite shops and asked for their scrap. I got some nice granite and silestone for kitchen and bath for $700 installed and I had a lot more counters than you have.
I have the same cabinetry and I like it just the way it is. This white kitchen trend is definitely not my friend. Reason? Well, actually I have 10 and they are my grubby fingers. The above being said, I got some good cleaning ideas.
LOL! I completely understand that this isn't for everyone Martha haha. Luckily this isn't my kitchen either so my dirty hands won't be dirtying them up :) Thanks for watching as always and glad you still found value in it.
Dude those cabinets look like crap. Holes and chips what you didn’t patch,popcorn paint finish and dude,paint WHOLE CABINET AND DRAWERS ! When you open cabinet door or drawer you want to be one color. Look good but maybe from 20 feet clown lol
Great video! We recently painted out kitchen as well. Prep work was four times the painting, but the end results turned out great and it saved us a bundle vs. what was quoted! Sherwin-Williams Extreme Bond Primer is unbelievable. We actually painted our backsplash as well (yes, not your normal path) and at first I had some trepidation, but once I applied the first coat of Primer I was good to go! We used Pro Classic paint and it has been very durable so far. Thanks again for a great video!
It would be really cool to do prefabricated granite for the countertops (150-400). You can find it really cheep at certain depots/yards and it would make a killer video to teach people how to cut (ryobi wet saw 79.00) and polish (grinder 39.00 w diamond disks 25.00). Just a thought because I haven't seen a ton of videos on it.
I have the exact kitchen cabinet and counter top. I'm working on the painting slowly one door at a time in my study when I have a moment. It's so cold in the north country and I have kids at home.... Looking forward to seeing the transformation of the counter top. I'm thinking to simply add another layer of laminate-should be doable for me as a diy newbie...
Great project Brent!! you did an amazing job at painting and protecting all surface. I didnt know it would do that much paint everywhere, its good to know. Cool for the sponsor, it wasnt feeling like a huge ads like some channels and I will buy the smaller sprayer next time I get a project like this summer to stain my 6x28 privacy wall on the deck. For the countertop, using the Leggari epoxy would be amazing, but its expensive. Another option could be to do an overlay concrete over the formica. Maybe its not made for countertop but jesmonite is an amazing product, maybe its possivle to use it as overlay.. this stuff take color so well you can get pure white to pure black or vibrant colors, you can mix and do nice patterns,etc..
Thanks so much for watching and the kind words Sebastien. Especially about the sponsorship. I am very mindful of that and I've turned down a LOT of sponsorship opportunities because it wasn't going to be a smooth transition. If I work with A company I want it to be genuine to my audience and make sense based upon the type of video it is. Thought it was a perfect transition here. Thanks so much for the support and the countertop suggestions. Looking forward to next the countertop remodel.
Hi Brent... This may reach you too late, but it might be worth considering doing 'epoxy-pour' countertops (Stonecoat comes to mind as one) . You can use the existing countertop as your substrate and the epoxy materials are not very expensive. I am a retired, former kitchen & bath remodeling contractor, so I can say with confidence... You put together a great video, your explanations were clear & thorough, you also did a great job on that kitchen project.
@@Winstonrodney6989 Hi Winston... Yes, a few years back, my brother (partner) & I did a kitchen. The learning curve was quick, we practiced on a small countertop from another job, that's all we needed. Wish I (we) had known about this type of epoxy years ago (retired now), but then again, the technology has changed for the better. However, I plan on re-doing my kitchen soon and will use 'Stonecoat Epoxy' for my countertops... Can't wait!... Good luck with your project!
Ooooo I love the thought of butcher block. Might be a little too expensive for this home owner though. I'll look into it. thanks for the suggestion Stan.
Would you recommend renting a paint sprayer. I would hate to spend $400 dollars on a sprayer and tip and only use it once. What are your recommendations as far as which one to rent. Perhaps from Home Depot. Also if a spare room is not available to spray the doors and drawers, what other options do you recommend?
I always lumped hardware into one bucket, I was never the one putting them back up... Might start individually bagging the hardware for ease of install after I spray.
I'm a dentist in Sedro-Woolley, WA and I have a patient bathroom that definitely needs a remodel. Very simple bathroom. If you want to do a quick weekend remodel and video, let me know!!
Sedro Woolley is such a small town that I had to say Hello-my Dad lived there for at least 30 years. He has passed away but I love your town. I am over on the east coast.
hello, I see on the video that you use a fine finish tip that is in gray color plastic but on the tool list when I click it shows on the amazon website Graco 310 tip which is green in color. So my question is would this Graco 310 work with Wagner pro 170? If not would you tell me what fine spray is on the video you are using? thanx
I have a question on the use of an airless sprayer.. when you are waiting the 4 hours prior to repainting do you have to flush the lines or just let it set?
As a carpenter and cabinet professional, you should know that caulking the cabinet door panels is a no-no. Due to shrinking and swelling. These panels are supposed to sit loose inside their door frame.
I have a Wagner 4566 that my neighbor gave me that was still unopened in the box.... looking forward to doing some pro level work.... I'm also going to get a good hvlp gun
Lol I watch all your videos love all your work it watching a contractor or somebody that knows how to work but they don’t do it the correct way to take shortcuts .I have watched for a few years now oh yeah when you get the Apoxsee countertops I’ve never seen nobody do it like you they look better than anyone else’s one RUclips I watched stone coat but It off-the-wall colors that make no sense some of those showers 😱🙀🫣 lol love that deck you remodeled in that barn door 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I will never understand why people will choose solid color over wood grain. If you are fortunate enough to have a raw wood kitchen, don’t sand and paint. Restain! There are lots of different staining shades to choose from
Hey, This is from Jukin Media. Just want to tell you that we are still interested in your video to share it on our brand. This is an amazing opportunity to give your video a viral boost and earn revenue out of it. Please let us know if you have any concerns that I can address. Thank you.
1D exposed grain is a desired effect and some people love it to countertops or a completely different trade from painting + 3 using lacquer inside an occupied home will stink 4 weeks
I have a previously painted kitchen cabinets in light color, do you need to sand it down and prime it? Or i can just clean it real good and then paint and no priming?
No do not use emerald for cabinets absolutely not. Emerald is one of the slowest drying times for water based urethanes out there. Emerald is a soft flexible trim paint. Airless wastes tons of paint doesn’t matter what pressure or tip size you’re using or what technique the best possible transfer efficiency with an airless is 40%. You absolutely must use a solvent based primer for oak cabinets to stop tannin bleed either BIN or a vinyl sealer before the top coat. If you can’t get your hands on solvent based primer use general finishes stain blocker primer or enduro undercoat. Hvlp 5 stage turbine ideally with a pressure pot system is the way to go. Waste less time masking the entire house and save on material as you can get transfer efficiency of 80% to 90%. Do not use emerald. It’s not a KCMA (Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturer’s Association) approved. If you want to use Sherwin William products, use either Vinyl sealer from them ideally in tandem with a fog coat of Zinsser BIN (NOT ADVANCED) over the bare surface then heavier coats of vinyl sealer. Airless puts on paint too heavy and you will have to move too fast to get good coverage with one coat. Emerald urethane sags and drips horribly on vertical surfaces you will need to use a .01 orifice or higher for it to not sheer so badly adding a thickener or a hardener to speed the dry time will help prevent sags and drips on verticals. But do not use emerald. Use Kem Aqua Plus, CAB lacquer, Kem Aqua, Gallery Series or Hydroplus if you’re using Sherwin William products. I prefer to fill the grain on oak with Aqua coat first before priming then after the first coat of vinyl sealer go back over the grain with bondo glazing putty and once fully dry, sand. Here’s a tip from years of experience vinyl sealer (lacquer) sands best when wet. Once the bondo and primer have been sanded smooth hit it with one to two more light coats of primer before the top coat. Use less coats on the back of the door save yourself money on materials. Use paper not plastic inside the boxes as the plastic will build up primer and paint then flake off if it has built up too much and it will fall into your paint job, paper will absorb the primer and paint and will not flake.
Great advice!
What DIY spray gun you can recommend for solvent based?
As a painter of 30 years, I can say you covered all the bases. I even picked up a few new tips from watching this. One step that I usually do is to give a quick sand after the prime coat. It makes the finish a little smoother. I hope people now realize why it can cost upwards of 10K to have a full set of kitchen cabinets painted professionally.
Agree with sanding primer coat. 👍
Yeah, I just had a quote for $7000, I couldn’t believe it. Question, instead of all that taping off before spraying, couldn’t you just tape a little and carefully brush it?
@@tabcobra no.. Hire a professional all you will do is destroy them and give yourself a headache
@@tabcobra if you want to brush, you need excellent paint that levels very well. And have a good technique, along with a good brush.
@tabcobra yes but the price will probably go up due to time and level of skill. Brush painting is no joke. I'm a professional who runs his own business.
The denatured alcohol means poisoned alcohol, so nobody gets the idea to drink it. It is spiked with methanol. Utter disregard for anyone breathing.
I’m wondering why you didn’t paint inside the cabinets 🤔
Me too. That would drive me crazy and make me hate it after a time.
Those look amazing! Maybe for the countertops you can use epoxy and make it look like marble. Would be a fun project/video.
EXACTLY what I was think Jay. Thanks for watching and the suggestion.
Did he just caulk in his microwave smh
I vote for diy concrete countertops! Great work on the cabinets. Huge transformation!
Great Job and video. I am not 100% sure it is a good idea to caulk those seams in the door fronts. That center panel is usually meant to be able to expand and contract and usually does. I would wonder if those seams ever cracked. From my experience ALEX is one of the cheapest builder grade caulks you can use and even if it says anti shrink acrylic latex caulks all shrink. This is why good finish carpenters generally don't use it. A silconized caulk or paintable silicone would probably be a longer term option if that gap really bothers you.
The center panel in a door is called a "Floating panel". The stiles around the panel has a lot of room so that the panel can expand/contract. Otherwise the joints of the door crack over time.
Is there a long term follow up to this video? I am interested if you ever had cracking on the door fronts.
One more thing, I shoot the faces horizontally on a lazy Susan and one side at a time starting with the backs and on the sharp pyramids. This helps get all sides and nooks and crannies.
You did a fantastic job!
This was an outstanding tutorial and your work is amazing.
Thank you so much!
I would have used a grain filler too. Looks good, but the grain showing at random spots would bother me
Painting cabinets doors and drawers are one of the most difficult tasks you can do. Brent, your video is a wonderful step-by-step guide for anyone wanted to take on the task. Thank you.
It wasn't the easiest project but so worth it in the end. Thanks so much Mitch for all the support.
True. But the front faces of the built-in boxes may be the most difficult of all.
Good video, I’ve been doing this for some time and was able to pick up some tips. One thing I didn’t hear you mention, did you sand the primer? This is pretty important to achieve a smooth finish.
"Removing tape with a perfect crisp line is always satisfying in my book" Yes! I stare at my crisp lines as if they were the boy I was crushing on in 6th grade.
Looks amazing!! I love your videos. Cannot wait to paint my own cabinets. I'm doing them in an off white color called Swiss Coffee.
I like to use a wood grain filler to hide the grains. Looks better that way. Great job though! Thanks for sharing.
Excellent attention to prep and detail. I’m a bit bugged why you left the inside unfinished vs. A.m a nice clean white
With this amount of work you put in, I wonder why you didn’t fill the grains in the oak wood
Hi, I have exact same cabinets and wanted paint them. However I was rold I have to remove the lacquer using some gooey stripping stuff. Your method seem easier. Will the paint last as long by removing lacquer vs sanding? Thanks
If you have the same type of cabinets you certainly don't need to strip them. Just Clean and prep them as I did and use a good quality primer. If your worries about grain coming through you could also use an oil primer. Thanks for watching.
Very nice video. I have kitchen cabinets VERY similar and was looking where to start with painting them. This video was incredibly informative and straight forward as well as including numerous helpful tips.
You make it seem so easy! But I know it’s a lot of tedious work. I hope I can do this next summer on my cabinets. Thank you for all the information and details. Wish me luck!
Kitchen looks great. Did you have to screen out paint and or use reducer to dilute paint for sprayer like for the hand held smaller sprayers.
That’s the great thing about this sprayer because you don’t have to dilute the paint at all. Thanks for watching.
This is one of the best Cabinet repaint videos that I have seen. I was wondering how the primer has performed for blocking the oak tannins from bleeding through. Thanks
Excellent and thorough..
Question, can you paint the inside if you want?
Do you really like how they turned out? From 10ft away they may look okay, but up close not so good.
Why did you not use a grain filler to fill in the red oak grain? You can obviously see the grain @24:02 and @25:40.
And finally @25:51, I am not sure that I would want my cabinets to look like that after all the hard work you put in. Oake cabinets are the hardest cabinet to paint and make them look good.
These imperfections may be hard to see on a cell phone, but I am watching this on a large PC monitor and I can see all the imperfections.
I understand your thought process Johnny and I'm a bit of a perfectionist so there is a part of me that knows exactly what you are saying. However, these are 40 year old cabinets and they will never end up PERFECT. I could have added wood filler and suggested that to the client but that would obviously take extensive time to fill and sand these doors completely down. We didn't have the time or the budget to do that on this project. Hopefully in the future I can show off what that process is in future videos but I still LOVE the transformation of these cabinets. Thanks for watching.
Agreed. To make a full video as a youtuber it would have been wise to use a client with a different type of wood cabinets or with a budget high enough to fill the grain. Just this makes it look very DIY. The rest is great, especially his full step by step process
As a cabinet finisher myself, I’ve restored many cabinets and I agree that oak is the worst because of the aggressive grain pattern. The steps I’ve taken were based on the sanding steps. We always charge more for for oak so we start with 150 or 180grit which closes some of the grain. After 1st prime coat, sand with finer grit. After 1st top coat sand with finer grit like 220 and then apply last coat. I use Px sanding sealer from SW and top coat with Kem Aqua with hvlp. I think if you want to stay with your system you might have a smoother finish with a 308 or 310. I like your choice in caulking and you take very good steps with the prep. Still a great video for DIY!👌🏽
@@wiserbud23 would you recommend Px sanding sealer on laminate cabinets also. Thanks
@@raulzamora8928 for laminate I would use either PX or BIN shellac based primer but I would use a coarse grit sandpaper on an orbital like 120grit to create a good tooth for the primer to stick. I would also wait until next day to do a scratch test before proceeding with topcoat. If the the primer sticks, the topcoat will stick to the primer 👌🏽
How much paint did you use for this project ?
Extreme Bond primer? Lord please do not listen to this man. THIS IS HOW NOT TO PAINT YOUR CABINETS! Emerald is a trim paint, it is NOT a cabinet paint whatsoever. It will break down over a year due to hand oils. It's not made for high traffic areas like cabinets
This is great video, quality is great, advice is great.
Buddy, you have too much microphone fidelity.
We can hear the saliva moving inside your mouth while you speak.
If this were an ASMR channel, and some people are into that, it wouldn't even register.
But, and this is just my personal perspectiv, I just can't, I have to watch this on mute with subtitles.
Too much dude, too much.
Great Job! Did you worry about ventilating the room, what was your though process on that?
I thought about that but after I did a layer of paint I realized that the circulation wasn't going to be a big deal since that paint sprayer is a high efficiency sprayer. Thanks for watching.
Too much work and time, just buy new cabinets 😂😂
You give the diy guy the confidence and inspiration to try anything.
Thank you
Love hearing that DDD. Thats why I do what I do and love doing it :) Thanks for the support.
I've followed your tutorial to the letter including the paint that you used and my cabinets look amazing. However, during the application of the finish paint, it appears that I didn't get enough paint on several cabinet doors. (and I ran out of paint) My question is: Can I get a small airless sprayer and add another coat of finish paint to the sections that appear to need more paint? Is there a time where it's too late to add more paint and keep that amazing finish? Thanks for your help! I look forward to following your work on the epoxy resin countertops, too!
I’m 11 minutes into this video, and fully convinced I’ll just buy new cabinets.
LOL! I completely understand that mindset but you will save money this way. Thanks for watching John.
@@BYOTools thanks for taking that how I meant it. You killed it, just a A LOT of tape. Inhave three kids running around, and that sounds like my idea of a bad time haha.
Already starts off wrong . Wasting time taping off you hand do carcasses . But obviously this pro doesnt know that !! Amateur
Looked easy when you are doing it and wait till I need to do it myself😂
Everything in video format looks easier than what it actually is ha ha. Thanks for watching and you can do it.
No wonder your chargred alot when having your cabinets painted. Its actually alot of work.
You can do all this process if they pay u like 5 k oh 7 k for a kitchen cabinets paint now people dont want pay not even 2 k 😂😂 now there primers that will save u all that work Benjamin more sales one primer is 100 dollar a gallon but it will stick to a fish 🐟 in water 😂
It’s 2 option or your clients be blind or you never do this before because everything what you do is completely wrong every people who use the sprayer those I’ve never use plastic around the place where you paint it because when paint be dry start flying around the place. Where you paint another coat also after sander the cheap sander like you definitely you can see round scratch on the cabinets and paint. What do you use evennot be close too high-quality
Probably easier to brush and roll the cabinets. And just spray the doors and drawers. That’s what I did and it came out perfect.
I don't agree with some of the things you did .the caulk you did on the door panels is not needed the panels float in the frame as they expand and contract all year long.caulking the cabinet to the wall ,why. caulking around the microwave so when that breaks what do you do then cut all that out to replace the micro.
I noticed it said TSP substitute. For sure wear gloves if using TSP, my hands started burning lol
great job. excellent tips/suggestions. I would have painted the kick plate and replaced the countertops first so as not to mess up the great paint job. Leaving the kickplate and other trim the wood color is like adding a 70s stripe to a modern kitchen. Cheap counters: I went to a few granite shops and asked for their scrap. I got some nice granite and silestone for kitchen and bath for $700 installed and I had a lot more counters than you have.
What about the counter top? Should’ve painted that ugly oak edge molding 🤢
Bu ne eziyet!Fırçayla boyamak daha kolay.
If you decided to grain fill your cabinets would you still use denatured alcohol to clean the cabinets before painting?
May I ask why not a strong degreaser on the doors since they were ultra grimey.
What was used to block tannins from the oak? Does Emerald paints block tannins?
How do you know that the wood will not bleed through the primer and paint? Because it's sealed wood maybe?
I have the same cabinetry and I like it just the way it is. This white kitchen trend is definitely not my friend. Reason? Well, actually I have 10 and they are my grubby fingers.
The above being said, I got some good cleaning ideas.
LOL! I completely understand that this isn't for everyone Martha haha. Luckily this isn't my kitchen either so my dirty hands won't be dirtying them up :) Thanks for watching as always and glad you still found value in it.
This whole video is an advertisement and not clearly disclosed as one..... quite terrible
Would a 311 tip work OK for kitchen cabinets. Thanks
Dude those cabinets look like crap. Holes and chips what you didn’t patch,popcorn paint finish and dude,paint WHOLE CABINET AND DRAWERS ! When you open cabinet door or drawer you want to be one color. Look good but maybe from 20 feet clown lol
Maybe the customer didn't want to pay for all of that extra work.
Out of curiosity- you did an insane amount of prep- why did you not fill in the grain with a skim coat of mud or some sort of wood filler?
Would yuu say the valspar bonding agent is garbage compared to the prime you used?
Nice!!!! What material did you fold into the bondo?
How about concrete counter tops with epoxy...white. gray black and gold swirls to make it look like marble.
Thanks so much for the suggestions Donnie. I 'm looking into different options and that is a great one.
No brad nail at least on the bondo job? seems unlikely that held up. Thanks for the rest of the tips.
Great results Sir. Painting cabinets is not as easy as you make it seem.
Video editing makes everything look easy haha. This wan't an easy process but it sure did turn out great. Thanks for watching.
The cabinets look great, it is only ruined by the dated countertop and sink you did not replace…
Did he caulk the microwave to the cabinets? If so that is a BIG NO
You make it look easy. I think you should come and do my cabinets.....cheers.
I'll be there Monday haha! Thanks for watching.
Ditch the Emerald....Kem Aqua plus........ Dry Time to Sand/Recoat 22 minutes - 25 minutes
Awesome BYOT! Do you have a link and name for the hardware template kit? Job looks fantastic
Thanks for the reminder R. Here it is: amzn.to/33xsZ99
Great video! We recently painted out kitchen as well. Prep work was four times the painting, but the end results turned out great and it saved us a bundle vs. what was quoted! Sherwin-Williams Extreme Bond Primer is unbelievable. We actually painted our backsplash as well (yes, not your normal path) and at first I had some trepidation, but once I applied the first coat of Primer I was good to go! We used Pro Classic paint and it has been very durable so far. Thanks again for a great video!
Im sure it looks like shit compares to having a pro do it
It would be really cool to do prefabricated granite for the countertops (150-400). You can find it really cheep at certain depots/yards and it would make a killer video to teach people how to cut (ryobi wet saw 79.00) and polish (grinder 39.00 w diamond disks 25.00). Just a thought because I haven't seen a ton of videos on it.
Great suggestion Michael. I've never thought about doing that myself but I'm going to have to look into it now :) Thanks for watching.
The rack tip is very clever. Thanks.
Great video!!! Please tell me the counter tops were replaced!!! 😮
countertops: ruclips.net/video/GfpVJBVKBgo/видео.htmlsi=4MUD4cuic_uJmV4y
I have the exact kitchen cabinet and counter top. I'm working on the painting slowly one door at a time in my study when I have a moment. It's so cold in the north country and I have kids at home....
Looking forward to seeing the transformation of the counter top. I'm thinking to simply add another layer of laminate-should be doable for me as a diy newbie...
Thats so funny and thanks for watching. I'm thinking something other then laminate but thanks for the suggestion.
needed to hav painted the wood trim above the cabinets around the vanity top.
Would have been a lot less prep work by using a roller on the boxes.
Looks so good! I think Quartz countertops match white cabinets really well!
Great project Brent!! you did an amazing job at painting and protecting all surface. I didnt know it would do that much paint everywhere, its good to know. Cool for the sponsor, it wasnt feeling like a huge ads like some channels and I will buy the smaller sprayer next time I get a project like this summer to stain my 6x28 privacy wall on the deck.
For the countertop, using the Leggari epoxy would be amazing, but its expensive.
Another option could be to do an overlay concrete over the formica.
Maybe its not made for countertop but jesmonite is an amazing product, maybe its possivle to use it as overlay.. this stuff take color so well you can get pure white to pure black or vibrant colors, you can mix and do nice patterns,etc..
Thanks so much for watching and the kind words Sebastien. Especially about the sponsorship. I am very mindful of that and I've turned down a LOT of sponsorship opportunities because it wasn't going to be a smooth transition. If I work with A company I want it to be genuine to my audience and make sense based upon the type of video it is. Thought it was a perfect transition here. Thanks so much for the support and the countertop suggestions. Looking forward to next the countertop remodel.
جراىم واضحه كلش وشرح ومن الأسماء واضحه مجرمين بالعراق لا تحجج وكذب وتمثيل لاجل قتل الناس الابرياء وقاتلات مجرمات واضحات من. ومن معهن
Right but if you’re going to caulk you should probably do it after the primer not the first top coat… but overall this was a great video.
Hi Brent... This may reach you too late, but it might be worth considering doing 'epoxy-pour' countertops (Stonecoat comes to mind as one) . You can use the existing countertop as your substrate and the epoxy materials are not very expensive. I am a retired, former kitchen & bath remodeling contractor, so I can say with confidence... You put together a great video, your explanations were clear & thorough, you also did a great job on that kitchen project.
Have you used the epoxy? I am doing a project for my daughter soon and am exited to see if I can get good results.
@@Winstonrodney6989 Hi Winston... Yes, a few years back, my brother (partner) & I did a kitchen. The learning curve was quick, we practiced on a small countertop from another job, that's all we needed. Wish I (we) had known about this type of epoxy years ago (retired now), but then again, the technology has changed for the better. However, I plan on re-doing my kitchen soon and will use 'Stonecoat Epoxy' for my countertops... Can't wait!... Good luck with your project!
counter tops would look good as butcher blocks or wooden ones in general, or you can do budget with plywood and laminate on top
Ooooo I love the thought of butcher block. Might be a little too expensive for this home owner though. I'll look into it. thanks for the suggestion Stan.
semi gloss on cabinets? seems too shiny. Each to their own I guess.
Waste of time...with a brush much more easier and faster
If I have existing paint, can I use the same process?
Did an entire house last year of all old wood trim like this the sanding was the worst but man did it look good afterwards
Wow! An entire house does sound like a nightmare Al haha! Thanks so much for watching and glad all of your work paid off.
Am I the only one that thought he is mr beast?
Would you recommend renting a paint sprayer. I would hate to spend $400 dollars on a sprayer and tip and only use it once. What are your recommendations as far as which one to rent. Perhaps from Home Depot. Also if a spare room is not available to spray the doors and drawers, what other options do you recommend?
قطعه حنان الفتلاوي فنان شهد المجرمين القاتله الخادمه الأخضر بنت نظام ونظام وخالد والشيخ ومجرم
I always lumped hardware into one bucket, I was never the one putting them back up...
Might start individually bagging the hardware for ease of install after I spray.
I'm a dentist in Sedro-Woolley, WA and I have a patient bathroom that definitely needs a remodel. Very simple bathroom. If you want to do a quick weekend remodel and video, let me know!!
Thanks for letting me know and reaching out Josh. SW is a little too far away for me but if things change I will let you know.
Sedro Woolley is such a small town that I had to say Hello-my Dad lived there for at least 30 years. He has passed away but I love your town. I am over on the east coast.
Thank you so much for this video, I’ve been planning on updating my cabinets and this video took out so much of my worrying! Great video!
What's the point of washing them if you are going to sand it
hello, I see on the video that you use a fine finish tip that is in gray color plastic but on the tool list when I click it shows on the amazon website Graco 310 tip which is green in color. So my question is would this Graco 310 work with Wagner pro 170? If not would you tell me what fine spray is on the video you are using? thanx
I have a question on the use of an airless sprayer.. when you are waiting the 4 hours prior to repainting do you have to flush the lines or just let it set?
great video!
As a carpenter and cabinet professional, you should know that caulking the cabinet door panels is a no-no. Due to shrinking and swelling. These panels are supposed to sit loose inside their door frame.
I have a Wagner 4566 that my neighbor gave me that was still unopened in the box.... looking forward to doing some pro level work.... I'm also going to get a good hvlp gun
Lol I watch all your videos love all your work it watching a contractor or somebody that knows how to work but they don’t do it the correct way to take shortcuts .I have watched for a few years now oh yeah when you get the Apoxsee countertops I’ve never seen nobody do it like you they look better than anyone else’s one RUclips I watched stone coat but It off-the-wall colors that make no sense some of those showers 😱🙀🫣 lol love that deck you remodeled in that barn door 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Did you sand after you applied primer ??
I will never understand why people will choose solid color over wood grain. If you are fortunate enough to have a raw wood kitchen, don’t sand and paint. Restain! There are lots of different staining shades to choose from
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1D exposed grain is a desired effect and some people love it to countertops or a completely different trade from painting + 3 using lacquer inside an occupied home will stink 4 weeks
use a Automotive spray gun and Oil Base paint. That paint you applied will ware off with in 6 month and scratches within a day.
I have a previously painted kitchen cabinets in light color, do you need to sand it down and prime it? Or i can just clean it real good and then paint and no priming?
can i get the whistle spray in any store or do i need to order online