Hello The Handyman. I am 19 years old and I am working as an electrician's apprentice with a solo self-employed master of 25 years. Since 16, I've been getting landscaping, painting and other odd jobs like a couple ceiling fans, some drywall repair. I thought you would like to know that I've been watching all your vids and learning everything I can because I want to have a successful home service business. I see you as someone I want to be like in the future. RUclips Rocks!!
My friend, you rock! Guys like me wish there were many more like you, you can't hire a kid (or anyone under 40) to do trade work to save your life today. Stick with it, and keep watching this guy. I'm 33 years in the trade and watch everything this guy puts out!
@@billysyms5761 You're right man. Only a few of my friends are going into the trades. At least 90% of my generation either doesn't like to work with their hands or are too scared/lazy.
@@nashboucher3822 unfortunately your generation thinks life is (or should be) easy. They'll work for me a day or two and quit "you work to hard". Very sad.
@@billysyms5761 Yes, part of me wishes I grew up in a different time. Phones and new technology have a big part in killing a lot of kids ambition, social skills and work ethic. I haven’t been alive for that long but times have definitely took a sharp turn since I was born.
I used to chuckle when I heard you say "You are watching the #1 home improvement Chanel in the entire world" in the intro...after watching you for many years...I now nod my head in agreement...Thank you for all you do! you are making the world a better place by sharing your hard earned knowledge.
A couple things to know about spraying lacquer for those who are new, learn from my mistakes. This video is great! I followed this to the tee and purchased equipment including a compressor, spray guns, etc. to produce the desired factory finish. My only critique is that I would have loved a little more information about the spraying setup, compressor used, product preparation, etc. I'm a meticulous person and did lots of prep and research before beginning this project. After all my prep and getting everything smooth as glass with sanding I made the mistake of assuming the lacquer would just flow out when I sprayed, it did not! I had horrible orange peel and all of my sanding work was for nothing I had to sand everything again. Rookie move, make sure you do plenty of testing before you spray anything on you're prepped cabinets. My lacquer was drying so fast it wasn't flowing out seemed like it was coming out of the gun already dry. With the lenmar tinted lacquer from this video I found I needed to thin and retard the product in order to get he desired finish but there is no mention of that prep step in this video. I thinned mine and retarded it in order to get it to layout without drying too fast around 30% dilution total, it took me some time to get to this solution but it certainly did fix my issues. I had to learn the hard way I hope this comment save some of you from making the same mistakes. Questions for video maker: 1) What dilution did you use when spraying the lacquer? 2) Do you prefer thinner or retardant for thinning or a combination? 3) What tip diameters did you spray with, different for sanding sealer vs top coat?
I really liked your video. I wish you would have given more detail on the products you used. For example, “they make a special filler.” What is the type or brand? Also what type of caulk did you use? Another example, “ this is pre-catylized lacquer.” What does that mean and what is the benefit? Thanks and keep up the good work.
Btw great tips here and instruction. Like the VO style as you work in a fast frame rate. Look forward to doing the next cabinet door your way. The wife prefers having the grain show under the paint - which shows it's real wood. Versus the wood putty fill over the grain - which could give off the MDF look. Thoughts? Think I prefer the subtle show of grain, but could just be me.
I don't even bother with primer from the paint store anymore. Just get some awl grip high build primer from your marine store. You wont regret it its one coat and done for grain issues or blemishes. Great video!
I use a rotating stand when painting. You would not have to duck under, and potentially knock dust off your lights. (I made mine by taking the seat off an old office chair and replacing it with a platform.) I also use Duralaq and Ultralaq and have had very good success with them. The only difference is I use the white vinyl sealer. It's a great help for me in detecting imperfections before the finish coats.
Just FYI ... (I am a professional painter, so I'm not learning anything here, just watching because I'm subscribed and interested in seeing how you do), "dries in 3 minutes", dry to the touch does not mean that the paint / lacquer has dried. We call it "degassing", the paint continues to lose humidity for up to 48 hours on average. I'm working at a luxury boat builder, I maintain the moulds, and let me tell you that when I paint for a repair, if I don't let it dry out a strict minimum of 24 hours (despite it being dry to the touch after 1 hour), and I sand then polish, there will be deformations from the paint still retracting due to loss of "humidity". Respect what is written on the product, the manufacturer who designed it knows better than any of us ... but once again, just because it's dry to the touch, does not mean it's dry.
If I need to sand between coats it's ready to sand in 30 minutes. Says so right on the can. I set them aside for 2 days before I deliver them to give it time to harden.
@@TheHandyman1 Was about to add, but forgot cause I went to make dinner, if you're applying a second coat right after, that's fine, it's called "flashing", where the paint hardens on the surface just enough to create a skin on which a new coat of paint can be applied without causing any runs ... after thinking about it and watching again, you do mention you don't sand between coats, you're right on this. If you were to sand between coats however, you would need to let it dry (harden) completely (30 minutes in your specific case, though I find that rather short tbh). Main reason I made the previous comment is because I've had people tell me X brand of paint is shit and not worth the (rather high) cost ... when they were at fault for not letting it harden fully. I get a little involved about my job, because too many people say that painting is easy ... then I go to their place to fix their shit job, and all of a sudden, they're surprised at how much better a professional job actually is. Like; absolutely no traces, even coats, all the details of filling in the most minute defect, sanding between coats for a perfect smooth finish ... etc. Nice job btw.
Nice work. I've painted a LOT of cabinets and have never used a vinyl sealer before... only lacquer under-coaters. And if we're "closing the grain", we just spray more coats of primer and/or paint--until the grain is closed. That's the beauty of lacquers... you can re-coat almost immediately. Personally, I prefer an open grain look. Why use "real" wood (vs mdf) if you want the finish to look like plastic? When the grain is open, painted cabinets look like wood--not mdf. And I can usually explain that to a client well enough that they get it... but I of course give them the option to have open or closed grain--usually by showing them a sample of each. And, of course, we charge more to close the grain--since that takes more time and materials. I'd say it's about 50/50 in terms of client preference.
i think the simple answer on wood vs mdf for the frames is that poplar is easier to mill than mdf of the same dimensions. natural wood also stays together better. 1/4" mdf panels RULE for painted cabinetry.
"Why use "real" wood (vs mdf) if you want the finish to look like plastic? When the grain is open, painted cabinets look like wood--not mdf. " Totally agree. Closing the grain makes things look like pre-fab Ikea cabinets. It's extra work and expense to make something that looks more low-budget. Makes sense here, though: with the composite floating panel, you want things to match. Having open grain on the frame and a smooth panel would be a little odd.
I was searching for James Taylor, but I came across this video and couldn't stop watching. My boyfriend has a cabinet shop. He loves to make them, but he hates painting them. I think he'll enjoy this video. Your knife looks a lot like one of those Rambo knives that my brother wanted when we were younger.
Just a few pointers as I have sprayed Lenmar for Over 20 years. Switch to the Lenmar Megavar Conversion Varnish. It is worth it by far. You will love the difference you see immediately. Also if those lights are not explosion proof I would be extremely careful. As with any solvent based finish any small spark including static can be deadly. Great channel keep up the good work.
When he said lacquer the first thing I did was cringe when I saw those lights! You've got to use LEDs for safety if you don't want to pop that roof off!
Bro, I love your lights just hanging like that and your makeshift painting booth. Seriously. You could make a panting booth in such a tight area like yours. You don't need a whole lot of space.
Nice tips. I use a super light chamfer bit in my palm router to ease the edges of my doors before sanding, perhaps 1/32 to 1/16" at most and hand sand them ever so lightly... helps keep the edges nice and crisp looking, but not so sharp they don't hold paint well like you said. Proper sanding and priming are really the key steps to any paint job. That cordless Dewalt sander is my favorite.
Filing the grain is much much easier if you use a spray on high build , or filler primer. It also seals the wood and give a great base for shooting on pretty much any paint. Just used. 400/600 grit then spray on a single stage lacquer
I tried your recommendation on sealing the panel. It mostly worked. I used DAP bathroom caulk. I make my own doors so in the future I am going to put beads into the panel gap AND seal. As for the LINMAR, I had very good luck using this with a turbine sprayer without thinning. Grateful for that.
As a custom cabinet maker, it is the painter's job to caulk the doors and cabinets and fill all the nail holes. It is the cabinet maker's job to repair all damage before install and prep cabinets to 120 grit if paint grade, 150 grit if stained.
I agree with the comments. You do very good work. The patience and care is evident. Not wearing any protective gear or using any decent dust collection when sanding though. Ouch. I feel sorry for your respiratory system. Quality doesn’t have to mean sacrificing your health. Look out for your future self!
With each Cabinet I finish, a new experience I have. Years after years of experience with Cabinet Refinish, the conclusion is always perfect. Congratulations, a wonderful job. Boston, MA.
What size needle do you use on spray gun. Can I get the same results with an hvlp turbine sprayer? I'm learning and trying to get that factory finish . Excellent job by the way 👏
What kind of compressor do you usually use for this application? Can I use any size of compressor? What about the spray gun? Can you suggest a good one that I can buy without hurting the pocket? I'm a new DIYer when it comes to painting, and would really appreciate any advice. Thanks and more power to your channel!
Loved the video and the process. As an FYI, you are wearing a 3M acid gas/ OV/ HEPA cartridge, indicated by the yellow label. You are paying extra for the acid gas protection which you don't need for painting with VOCs. You need the black label which is combination HEPA/OV or 3M 60921. Might save you a few bucks per cartridge and they last a bit longer as there is more carbon vs the acid absorbing media.
You can get MDF profile doors these days. They don't move like frame and panel timber doors do, they are cheaper and they paint up a treat, with minimal prep work.
Thanks. I have had a few people say they don't like them. I think in the long run. The more useful info I can give in my videos the better they will do.
I'm sorry if someone else asked this question already. What paint gun tip did you use? I would like to know the size the tip(s)? Is the tip size different for the sealer versus the paint? I'm assuming yes. And I'm assuming you are using two different guns: sealer and painting. Lastly, do you use an adjustable valved gauge with filter on your paint gun? If so, what can you tell me about it so that I can replicate your setup. Thank you ahead of time and great vid.
The Handyman knows how to use caulk to keep the housewives happy. I am having a terrible time finding a place locally to buy lacquer. I used acrylic enamel on my last project, and the finish it nice, but MAN does it dry slow.
I'm making some assumptions here. That the lacquer and vinyl products are solvent based and that your "spray booth" is not vented and those lights are not explosion proof. You might be wearing a respirator, but the flash off fumes stay in the air for some time. After spraying I assume you take off the respirator and stay in your shop. Lacquer and lacquer thinner are very hazardous to your health. Just wondering about the message here about a diyer spraying solvent based product without proper ventilation and such. Just my two cents. I'm a retired furnituremaker.
As silly as this may sound. Could you please explain how to set up my air compressor to my airless sprayer? I used to ask my grandpa how to do these things…. He passed away last march and I wish I had listened better. I miss him he was my best friend. I was his first grandchild. He’d always say you need to pay attention because one day i won’t be here. He had his own car dealership, auto body repair and rental properties. He was kind enough to give me a rental and as things need to be repaired I have them repaired or replaced. However I’d like to know more things to teach myself and to also make sure I do right by him since he did so much for me. I want to honor his legacy. I appreciate your very detailed video it helps me understand and I feel like I’m able to do this. Thank you for taking the time to read my post Sir and take care.
Can you tell me what type of sprayer that is (brand) also what size tips do you recommend for a job like this? What type of paint do you use and sealer, I have a project like this at home and your job looks phenomenal the finish is spot on.
I find the voice over style refreshing. The video where you convert carpeted stairs to wood (five years ago?) got me hooked. Not a lot of talking. Just showing. Keep it up.
...and those who swear by how amazing their cabinets came out with an all-in-one and a roller. I can put on a pretty smooth finish with a brush and BM Advance which levels like no other if you move quick and don't double-back, but nothing holds a candle to a proper spray coat and good technique. If you've ever been trained in automotive finishes and you hear how awesome a roller application was... I have an old car I want to sell them.
Awesome tips, and just in the nick of time for me. Have a client who wants me to sand and repaint her kitchen in a custom color in a few weeks, and it'll be my first time. She probably won't like the price, but I think she's going to love the finished product now.
She won't like the price but this process appears to take around 4 hours per door, and that's not counting the curing time for the sealer, and then the paint, or removing, installing hardware and adjusting, etc.. And that's just the doors
@@warthogA10 So 4 hours per door.. average kitchen has around 30 doors which means 120 hours just for the doors. Then all the work that goes into the boxes. Yeah, I think your estimations are wildly off.
I have always been Leary about laquer. 3 years ago, I made new doors for my cabinets, my father wanted to "help" and talked me in to laquer. He sprayed everything with a spray gun but had the output at the full 120psi. He ruined everything. Laquer powder all over everything.
Instead of using oak for painted door frames etc. use poplar or maple. This way you don't have to fill all the grain which is labor intensive and messy.
someetimes we do not caulking because depending where you leave make the caulking cracking overtime,like people who lives in boston where they use a lot of heat at winter time,
Just ran upon your video. Excellent content. I'm curious about your wood filler. It looks like a thinner consistency to what I've used for other projects. What brand do you use?
nice video, Laquer we don't use any more after so many issues with it we switched to conversion varnish. If you are doing a one time job is fine but if you want to do it for a living then I would recommend switching just because you will save yourself so much $, Headaches, and frustrations. you will need some education for mixing the right amount of reducer but way way better than lacquer. Good Luck.
What paint cup brand and what compressor plzzz. I want a factory finish too. I've been doing with trim paint all these years. Also can you use the vinyl sealer on previously painted surfaces?
I have never heard of that vinyl sealer before. If you tell me I can spray that on the edges of MDF than paint over it without all the BS of prepping MDF, I will be the happiest #1 cabinet maker on all of the youtubes. LOL I have mixed thoughts about what you did with that caulk. I think what these ladies are really complaining about is on cheaper cabinets the fitment of the center panels are always loosy goosy.
yeah shellac works for mdf also. sherwin williams and diamond vogel also have sealers mdf can be a pain in the ass i dont even sand it before i spray it anymore just coat then sand it. no more fuzzzies! agree with you on the caulk its a bad idea in my opinion. that stuff cracks it looks worse. using a shaper and feeder eliminate inconsistent groves for the panel and lightly sanding the inside edges helps also. i hate the gaps to, but i will not caulk them.
My guess is that it's a "USMC Knife, Fighting Utility, Mark 2" commonly known as a Ka-Bar (after the company that first manufactured them for the Navy).
THANK YOU. I’ve been remodeling our house, and the kitchen and bathroom cabinets have been stressing me out the most. I’ll be following your guide to a T!
Great video! Quick question though... what is the wood grain filler product you used? You said it was a special product but never actually said the name of it so we could purchase the same. Thanks for all the videos! I've learned a ton.
Great video as always. Question: we have upcoming project to repaint a kitchen cabinets and doors. Once the surface is sanded down do we need to put a primer first or it’s ok to paint without primer?
Thanks for the great video. Wish I would have found it sooner. I had a question on your vinyl sealer. Its that necessary or can you use a quality spray primer like M.L cambells clawlock? I used that this weekend and seemed to work pretty good but its $$$. I can use Vinyl sealer just leaning on what to do or not to do. Also, is there a particular pre-cat paint you like to go with? I already built my kitchen cabinets but havent painted them yet and was leaning towards cambells Turino. Its a post cat laquer and you may ask why Cambell? Its what i've always used for clear finishes so was sticking with the same products but Im open to suggestions. I appreciate your feedback and time and will support your channel anyway I can. Thanks again
Cool video. Thanks for sharing. I spray all my cabinets with SW Kem Aqua through a graco edge gun with 5 stage hvlp turbine. Still learning, still making mistakes, but not to many anymore. The biggest game-changer for me was when I purchased a inflatable spray booth. It made all the difference in the world. I watched you bang your head on that overhead light, good way to add dust into your mix. Get a real booth, best $900 I ever spent.
How long does it take to dry? I have been using Lacquer for years. I have a feeling it will be outlawed soon. Looking for something that is just as good but will be around
That's not to bad. I will have to get a gallon and test it out. Do they sell it at SW stores? Or do you have to go to their commercial coatings store. What do you thin it with? Sorry for all the questions.
That inflatable booth sounds awesome, but takes up so much room and pricey, may I suggest an alternative? I use pop up canopy. Around $250 and disassembles neatly and requires very small footprint in storage. It’s 10x10 and fits perfectly in my 2 car garage when I need to spray.
He did a video about this already - it was his trip to the dump. 😉 (You can try gluing, clamping, sanding & a few coats of Rust-Oleum countertop paint, for "meh..." results, but what's your time worth?)
Hello Thank you for your help. I have a painter painting my cabinets and he painted all my drawer mechanisms. Is that correct thing to do? will this cause problems later
I used to subscribe to Bespoke Post when I was into subscription boxes after graduating from magazine subscriptions. I would get Bespoke Post, loot crate, hello fresh, ect. Graduated now to subscribing to streaming services after cutting the cord. I could have used that caulk tip when I painted my cabinets last year. Will definitely do that next time.
*8:58** tiny caulk smearing device... couldn't find it on your amazon storefront. Can ya add it next time you add to it, please? Thanks much for that tip!!*
Hi Handyman, What brand/type of caulking and wood filler are you using in this video? I’m about to start a cabinet project and need all the help I can get. Thank you for taking the time!
![Quando Rondo - Grow Up [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8zFnCg3BO4Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello The Handyman. I am 19 years old and I am working as an electrician's apprentice with a solo self-employed master of 25 years. Since 16, I've been getting landscaping, painting and other odd jobs like a couple ceiling fans, some drywall repair. I thought you would like to know that I've been watching all your vids and learning everything I can because I want to have a successful home service business. I see you as someone I want to be like in the future. RUclips Rocks!!
My friend, you rock! Guys like me wish there were many more like you, you can't hire a kid (or anyone under 40) to do trade work to save your life today. Stick with it, and keep watching this guy. I'm 33 years in the trade and watch everything this guy puts out!
@@billysyms5761 You're right man. Only a few of my friends are going into the trades. At least 90% of my generation either doesn't like to work with their hands or are too scared/lazy.
@@nashboucher3822 unfortunately your generation thinks life is (or should be) easy. They'll work for me a day or two and quit "you work to hard". Very sad.
@@billysyms5761 Yes, part of me wishes I grew up in a different time. Phones and new technology have a big part in killing a lot of kids ambition, social skills and work ethic. I haven’t been alive for that long but times have definitely took a sharp turn since I was born.
@@billysyms5761 I've been trying to get into the electrician's union and they've haven't been accepting applications in months and months.
I used to chuckle when I heard you say "You are watching the #1 home improvement Chanel in the entire world" in the intro...after watching you for many years...I now nod my head in agreement...Thank you for all you do! you are making the world a better place by sharing your hard earned knowledge.
A couple things to know about spraying lacquer for those who are new, learn from my mistakes.
This video is great! I followed this to the tee and purchased equipment including a compressor, spray guns, etc. to produce the desired factory finish. My only critique is that I would have loved a little more information about the spraying setup, compressor used, product preparation, etc. I'm a meticulous person and did lots of prep and research before beginning this project. After all my prep and getting everything smooth as glass with sanding I made the mistake of assuming the lacquer would just flow out when I sprayed, it did not! I had horrible orange peel and all of my sanding work was for nothing I had to sand everything again. Rookie move, make sure you do plenty of testing before you spray anything on you're prepped cabinets. My lacquer was drying so fast it wasn't flowing out seemed like it was coming out of the gun already dry. With the lenmar tinted lacquer from this video I found I needed to thin and retard the product in order to get he desired finish but there is no mention of that prep step in this video.
I thinned mine and retarded it in order to get it to layout without drying too fast around 30% dilution total, it took me some time to get to this solution but it certainly did fix my issues.
I had to learn the hard way I hope this comment save some of you from making the same mistakes.
Questions for video maker:
1) What dilution did you use when spraying the lacquer?
2) Do you prefer thinner or retardant for thinning or a combination?
3) What tip diameters did you spray with, different for sanding sealer vs top coat?
What gun and cfm compressor did you use? Been looking at LVLP so I don't need as large of a compressor
Old school quality! Takes time, patience and talent.
Sucks that quality has become old school. It’s only downhill from here
I really liked your video. I wish you would have given more detail on the products you used. For example, “they make a special filler.” What is the type or brand? Also what type of caulk did you use? Another example, “ this is pre-catylized lacquer.” What does that mean and what is the benefit? Thanks and keep up the good work.
I believe the grain filler is made by Timbermate.
This is the exact thing I was thinking and it is not in his Amazon list FYI
1:31 - Coors Light, the banquet of beers and cabinet refinishing. 🔥
Btw great tips here and instruction. Like the VO style as you work in a fast frame rate.
Look forward to doing the next cabinet door your way. The wife prefers having the grain show under the paint - which shows it's real wood. Versus the wood putty fill over the grain - which could give off the MDF look. Thoughts? Think I prefer the subtle show of grain, but could just be me.
I don't even bother with primer from the paint store anymore. Just get some awl grip high build primer from your marine store. You wont regret it its one coat and done for grain issues or blemishes. Great video!
I use a rotating stand when painting. You would not have to duck under, and potentially knock dust off your lights. (I made mine by taking the seat off an old office chair and replacing it with a platform.) I also use Duralaq and Ultralaq and have had very good success with them. The only difference is I use the white vinyl sealer. It's a great help for me in detecting imperfections before the finish coats.
Yes me too. Also use 3/4" ply cut down to 4x4" with drywall screws and bumpers on top.
Yeah, in our spray booth we have a lazy susan type set up that allows us to rotate the piece 360 degrees... which is definitely handy.
@maxeffort Omg that is such a genius idea (using an old office chair)! Thank you so much for sharing!!
Just FYI ... (I am a professional painter, so I'm not learning anything here, just watching because I'm subscribed and interested in seeing how you do), "dries in 3 minutes", dry to the touch does not mean that the paint / lacquer has dried. We call it "degassing", the paint continues to lose humidity for up to 48 hours on average.
I'm working at a luxury boat builder, I maintain the moulds, and let me tell you that when I paint for a repair, if I don't let it dry out a strict minimum of 24 hours (despite it being dry to the touch after 1 hour), and I sand then polish, there will be deformations from the paint still retracting due to loss of "humidity".
Respect what is written on the product, the manufacturer who designed it knows better than any of us ... but once again, just because it's dry to the touch, does not mean it's dry.
If I need to sand between coats it's ready to sand in 30 minutes. Says so right on the can. I set them aside for 2 days before I deliver them to give it time to harden.
@@TheHandyman1 Was about to add, but forgot cause I went to make dinner, if you're applying a second coat right after, that's fine, it's called "flashing", where the paint hardens on the surface just enough to create a skin on which a new coat of paint can be applied without causing any runs ... after thinking about it and watching again, you do mention you don't sand between coats, you're right on this.
If you were to sand between coats however, you would need to let it dry (harden) completely (30 minutes in your specific case, though I find that rather short tbh).
Main reason I made the previous comment is because I've had people tell me X brand of paint is shit and not worth the (rather high) cost ... when they were at fault for not letting it harden fully.
I get a little involved about my job, because too many people say that painting is easy ... then I go to their place to fix their shit job, and all of a sudden, they're surprised at how much better a professional job actually is.
Like; absolutely no traces, even coats, all the details of filling in the most minute defect, sanding between coats for a perfect smooth finish ... etc.
Nice job btw.
When I saw the Coors can I knew it was legit!
Say it ain't so.
Nice work. I've painted a LOT of cabinets and have never used a vinyl sealer before... only lacquer under-coaters. And if we're "closing the grain", we just spray more coats of primer and/or paint--until the grain is closed. That's the beauty of lacquers... you can re-coat almost immediately.
Personally, I prefer an open grain look. Why use "real" wood (vs mdf) if you want the finish to look like plastic? When the grain is open, painted cabinets look like wood--not mdf. And I can usually explain that to a client well enough that they get it... but I of course give them the option to have open or closed grain--usually by showing them a sample of each. And, of course, we charge more to close the grain--since that takes more time and materials. I'd say it's about 50/50 in terms of client preference.
i think the simple answer on wood vs mdf for the frames is that poplar is easier to mill than mdf of the same dimensions. natural wood also stays together better. 1/4" mdf panels RULE for painted cabinetry.
"Why use "real" wood (vs mdf) if you want the finish to look like plastic? When the grain is open, painted cabinets look like wood--not mdf. "
Totally agree. Closing the grain makes things look like pre-fab Ikea cabinets. It's extra work and expense to make something that looks more low-budget.
Makes sense here, though: with the composite floating panel, you want things to match. Having open grain on the frame and a smooth panel would be a little odd.
I was searching for James Taylor, but I came across this video and couldn't stop watching. My boyfriend has a cabinet shop. He loves to make them, but he hates painting them. I think he'll enjoy this video.
Your knife looks a lot like one of those Rambo knives that my brother wanted when we were younger.
Bet you were searching for that James Taylor classic - Factory finish on my painted cabinets, right? :-)
Just a few pointers as I have sprayed Lenmar for Over 20 years. Switch to the Lenmar Megavar Conversion Varnish. It is worth it by far. You will love the difference you see immediately. Also if those lights are not explosion proof I would be extremely careful. As with any solvent based finish any small spark including static can be deadly. Great channel keep up the good work.
Wow helpful info thank you!
I have similar lights and they are LED so no risk.
BUT still a good point to remember.
Yes… fine flammable vapor + exposed ignition source = BOOM 💥
When he said lacquer the first thing I did was cringe when I saw those lights! You've got to use LEDs for safety if you don't want to pop that roof off!
The #1 home improvement RUclips channel in the world 💯💯💯
Glad you explained about the composite material (MDF) for the panels. If you use panels made of solid wood the calk will crack.
Day/Video 27 of asking Handyman to say Howdy in the intro. Caulk tip was on point.
Bro, I love your lights just hanging like that and your makeshift painting booth. Seriously. You could make a panting booth in such a tight area like yours. You don't need a whole lot of space.
Man, 340k subs! I think I started watching around 20k. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for hangin with me for so long.
@@TheHandyman1 No problem! I enjoy your content and skills.
Nice tips. I use a super light chamfer bit in my palm router to ease the edges of my doors before sanding, perhaps 1/32 to 1/16" at most and hand sand them ever so lightly... helps keep the edges nice and crisp looking, but not so sharp they don't hold paint well like you said. Proper sanding and priming are really the key steps to any paint job.
That cordless Dewalt sander is my favorite.
Filing the grain is much much easier if you use a spray on high build , or filler primer. It also seals the wood and give a great base for shooting on pretty much any paint. Just used. 400/600 grit then spray on a single stage lacquer
what primer you use to fill wood grain?
A little Banquet never hurt anyone!
I tried your recommendation on sealing the panel. It mostly worked. I used DAP bathroom caulk. I make my own doors so in the future I am going to put beads into the panel gap AND seal. As for the LINMAR, I had very good luck using this with a turbine sprayer without thinning. Grateful for that.
As a custom cabinet maker, it is the painter's job to caulk the doors and cabinets and fill all the nail holes.
It is the cabinet maker's job to repair all damage before install and prep cabinets to 120 grit if paint grade, 150 grit if stained.
I agree with the comments. You do very good work. The patience and care is evident. Not wearing any protective gear or using any decent dust collection when sanding though. Ouch. I feel sorry for your respiratory system. Quality doesn’t have to mean sacrificing your health. Look out for your future self!
With each Cabinet I finish, a new experience I have. Years after years of experience with Cabinet Refinish, the conclusion is always perfect. Congratulations, a wonderful job.
Boston, MA.
What size needle do you use on spray gun. Can I get the same results with an hvlp turbine sprayer? I'm learning and trying to get that factory finish . Excellent job by the way 👏
What kind of compressor do you usually use for this application? Can I use any size of compressor? What about the spray gun? Can you suggest a good one that I can buy without hurting the pocket? I'm a new DIYer when it comes to painting, and would really appreciate any advice. Thanks and more power to your channel!
Loved the video and the process. As an FYI, you are wearing a 3M acid gas/ OV/ HEPA cartridge, indicated by the yellow label. You are paying extra for the acid gas protection which you don't need for painting with VOCs. You need the black label which is combination HEPA/OV or 3M 60921. Might save you a few bucks per cartridge and they last a bit longer as there is more carbon vs the acid absorbing media.
Maybe it’s all he had lying around.
Thank for the info, will help me in the future
Best handyman on youtube
You can get MDF profile doors these days. They don't move like frame and panel timber doors do, they are cheaper and they paint up a treat, with minimal prep work.
I like these better where you really give extra details and information about the process.
Thanks. I have had a few people say they don't like them. I think in the long run. The more useful info I can give in my videos the better they will do.
I'm sorry if someone else asked this question already. What paint gun tip did you use? I would like to know the size the tip(s)? Is the tip size different for the sealer versus the paint? I'm assuming yes. And I'm assuming you are using two different guns: sealer and painting. Lastly, do you use an adjustable valved gauge with filter on your paint gun? If so, what can you tell me about it so that I can replicate your setup. Thank you ahead of time and great vid.
That knife you wanted ID on looked like a K-bar.
Great video, good scoop. Glad I found you and have subscribed.
The Handyman knows how to use caulk to keep the housewives happy. I am having a terrible time finding a place locally to buy lacquer. I used acrylic enamel on my last project, and the finish it nice, but MAN does it dry slow.
I'm making some assumptions here. That the lacquer and vinyl products are solvent based and that your "spray booth" is not vented and those lights are not explosion proof. You might be wearing a respirator, but the flash off fumes stay in the air for some time. After spraying I assume you take off the respirator and stay in your shop. Lacquer and lacquer thinner are very hazardous to your health. Just wondering about the message here about a diyer spraying solvent based product without proper ventilation and such. Just my two cents. I'm a retired furnituremaker.
...also can get the particulates in the air settling on the finish. Yes laquer drys fast, but some of those particles are a lot faster.
Use featherfill catalyzed high build primer (stolen from automotive) on grain, then sand....unorthodox but fast and effective.
As silly as this may sound. Could you please explain how to set up my air compressor to my airless sprayer? I used to ask my grandpa how to do these things…. He passed away last march and I wish I had listened better. I miss him he was my best friend. I was his first grandchild. He’d always say you need to pay attention because one day i won’t be here. He had his own car dealership, auto body repair and rental properties. He was kind enough to give me a rental and as things need to be repaired I have them repaired or replaced. However I’d like to know more things to teach myself and to also make sure I do right by him since he did so much for me. I want to honor his legacy. I appreciate your very detailed video it helps me understand and I feel like I’m able to do this. Thank you for taking the time to read my post Sir and take care.
Those seams are a complaint of this househusband. Wife doesn’t even notice all the crap that gets stuck in those seams.
Can you tell me what type of sprayer that is (brand) also what size tips do you recommend for a job like this? What type of paint do you use and sealer, I have a project like this at home and your job looks phenomenal the finish is spot on.
Handyman watching you paint is like watching a graceful ballerina move!
I find the voice over style refreshing. The video where you convert carpeted stairs to wood (five years ago?) got me hooked. Not a lot of talking. Just showing. Keep it up.
Thanks for the feedback.
This is why H•Man is The GOAT .
This is good to know. Now all I need is a paint sprayer
...and those who swear by how amazing their cabinets came out with an all-in-one and a roller. I can put on a pretty smooth finish with a brush and BM Advance which levels like no other if you move quick and don't double-back, but nothing holds a candle to a proper spray coat and good technique. If you've ever been trained in automotive finishes and you hear how awesome a roller application was... I have an old car I want to sell them.
Awesome tips, and just in the nick of time for me. Have a client who wants me to sand and repaint her kitchen in a custom color in a few weeks, and it'll be my first time. She probably won't like the price, but I think she's going to love the finished product now.
She won't like the price but this process appears to take around 4 hours per door, and that's not counting the curing time for the sealer, and then the paint, or removing, installing hardware and adjusting, etc..
And that's just the doors
@@warthogA10
So 4 hours per door.. average kitchen has around 30 doors which means 120 hours just for the doors. Then all the work that goes into the boxes. Yeah, I think your estimations are wildly off.
@@warthogA10 no..but seems more like 1 hr per door
God i dont miss doing this every day 😅
Have you ever thought of using a turn table when painting? I just did ours on a semi professional home owner level and it was a life saver.
Lol, love the full face mask on the beard. Fauxchi would be proud.
I have always been Leary about laquer. 3 years ago, I made new doors for my cabinets, my father wanted to "help" and talked me in to laquer. He sprayed everything with a spray gun but had the output at the full 120psi. He ruined everything. Laquer powder all over everything.
Well, that was one old fool who screwed up. Not everyone is a fk up
What type of paint is that? That's a great finish
Instead of using oak for painted door frames etc. use poplar or maple. This way you don't have to fill all the grain which is labor intensive and messy.
He didn’t use oak. He keeps mentioning it because half the country has oak cabinets that aren’t in style anymore
1992 called. They were asking for your advice.
Your quality and attention to detail is absolutely amazing 👏
A little sawdust in the beer adds a nice country taste
Some guy came in today to paint cabinets, his oil based paint job on the cabinets was amazing, they look like they're made out of granite
someetimes we do not caulking because depending where you leave make the caulking cracking overtime,like people who lives in boston where they use a lot of heat at winter time,
Just ran upon your video. Excellent content. I'm curious about your wood filler. It looks like a thinner consistency to what I've used for other projects. What brand do you use?
Coors will make every job look great,
He puts a little caulk in for the wives. Wives love caulk, good man.
nice video, Laquer we don't use any more after so many issues with it we switched to conversion varnish. If you are doing a one time job is fine but if you want to do it for a living then I would recommend switching just because you will save yourself so much $, Headaches, and frustrations. you will need some education for mixing the right amount of reducer but way way better than lacquer. Good Luck.
What paint cup brand and what compressor plzzz. I want a factory finish too. I've been doing with trim paint all these years. Also can you use the vinyl sealer on previously painted surfaces?
Every time I see you drink a Coors Banquet in a video the amount I want to be your friend doubles
Same.
I have never heard of that vinyl sealer before. If you tell me I can spray that on the edges of MDF than paint over it without all the BS of prepping MDF, I will be the happiest #1 cabinet maker on all of the youtubes. LOL I have mixed thoughts about what you did with that caulk. I think what these ladies are really complaining about is on cheaper cabinets the fitment of the center panels are always loosy goosy.
yeah shellac works for mdf also. sherwin williams and diamond vogel also have sealers mdf can be a pain in the ass i dont even sand it before i spray it anymore just coat then sand it. no more fuzzzies! agree with you on the caulk its a bad idea in my opinion. that stuff cracks it looks worse. using a shaper and feeder eliminate inconsistent groves for the panel and lightly sanding the inside edges helps also. i hate the gaps to, but i will not caulk them.
My guess is that it's a "USMC Knife, Fighting Utility, Mark 2" commonly known as a Ka-Bar (after the company that first manufactured them for the Navy).
hey, what wood are you using when you paint cabinets?
What kind of HVLP sprayer do you use? Does it hook straight up to your air compressor?
First time viewer here, love your video and I believe that is a K-Bar knife? USMC here, and you too perhaps?
THANK YOU. I’ve been remodeling our house, and the kitchen and bathroom cabinets have been stressing me out the most. I’ll be following your guide to a T!
Love the ka-bar! Semper Fi!
@Richard Bradley was your answer right?
so you applied lacquer before painting and after or just before?
Razor blade? Best putty knife ever!
What type of wood did you use for the rails and stiles? Thank you.
So, what vinyl primer did you use? What filler did you use? I could not find this on your tools, in the video, or in answers to questions. Help?
Ok. I looked more closely at the video. Sealer is LENMAR Vinyl sanding sealer. Still I couldn't find the filler.
Yumm Coors! Lo and behold it is not a light beer either.
That is the Marine Corps Fighting Knife!!! KBAR!!! Semper Fi!!!🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
What kind of primer and paint are you using specifically?
That is by far one of the best videos Tells you everything you need to know not a bunch of filler and really easy to understand great job
well....there was just a little "filler"...🤣
Do you a compressor with your gun an what paint did you use?
Great video! Quick question though... what is the wood grain filler product you used? You said it was a special product but never actually said the name of it so we could purchase the same. Thanks for all the videos! I've learned a ton.
i suggest priming bare wood first before applying caulk but whatever works
You need to get yourself a surfprep sander my friend.
Awesome, thank you sir for this video. Am grateful to see this.
God bless.
Aqua coat is a great product for filling wood grain.
What brand paint what brand vinyl sealer is it water based ?
12 minutes in he points the camera at them. Hit the pause button.
Great video as always.
Question: we have upcoming project to repaint a kitchen cabinets and doors. Once the surface is sanded down do we need to put a primer first or it’s ok to paint without primer?
Great vid. K-bar?
That is so beautiful. You do good work. Thank you.
Can u put a link in to find the laquer and paint, thx
Hi, what is the brand & model of your air pump?
Thanks for the great video. Wish I would have found it sooner. I had a question on your vinyl sealer. Its that necessary or can you use a quality spray primer like M.L cambells clawlock? I used that this weekend and seemed to work pretty good but its $$$.
I can use Vinyl sealer just leaning on what to do or not to do. Also, is there a particular pre-cat paint you like to go with? I already built my kitchen cabinets but havent painted them yet and was leaning towards cambells Turino. Its a post cat laquer and you may ask why Cambell? Its what i've always used for clear finishes so was sticking with the same products but Im open to suggestions. I appreciate your feedback and time and will support your channel anyway I can. Thanks again
Cool video. Thanks for sharing.
I spray all my cabinets with SW Kem Aqua through a graco edge gun with 5 stage hvlp turbine. Still learning, still making mistakes, but not to many anymore.
The biggest game-changer for me was when I purchased a inflatable spray booth. It made all the difference in the world.
I watched you bang your head on that overhead light, good way to add dust into your mix. Get a real booth, best $900 I ever spent.
How long does it take to dry? I have been using Lacquer for years. I have a feeling it will be outlawed soon. Looking for something that is just as good but will be around
@@TheHandyman1
Dries in minutes for the primer, about 30 for the paint
That's not to bad. I will have to get a gallon and test it out. Do they sell it at SW stores? Or do you have to go to their commercial coatings store. What do you thin it with? Sorry for all the questions.
@@TheHandyman1
No thinning necessary! It's a very thin product right out of the can.
SW commercial only.
That inflatable booth sounds awesome, but takes up so much room and pricey, may I suggest an alternative? I use pop up canopy. Around $250 and disassembles neatly and requires very small footprint in storage. It’s 10x10 and fits perfectly in my 2 car garage when I need to spray.
You should do a video on peeling the melamine and painting the particle board. I have 46 cabinets that are starting to peel away.
He did a video about this already - it was his trip to the dump. 😉
(You can try gluing, clamping, sanding & a few coats of Rust-Oleum countertop paint, for "meh..." results, but what's your time worth?)
You could replace the doors
We repainted ours recently like that. Use a heat gun. The melamine will peel off right before your eyes.
Do you seal on top of the paint? My painted cabinets are chipping
What sprayer are you currently suggesting? The one listed on your Amazon list is unavailable
Simply Amazing finish on those cabinet doors.
Hello Thank you for your help. I have a painter painting my cabinets and he painted all my drawer mechanisms. Is that correct thing to do? will this cause problems later
I used to subscribe to Bespoke Post when I was into subscription boxes after graduating from magazine subscriptions. I would get Bespoke Post, loot crate, hello fresh, ect. Graduated now to subscribing to streaming services after cutting the cord. I could have used that caulk tip when I painted my cabinets last year. Will definitely do that next time.
*8:58** tiny caulk smearing device... couldn't find it on your amazon storefront. Can ya add it next time you add to it, please? Thanks much for that tip!!*
Hi Handyman, What brand/type of caulking and wood filler are you using in this video? I’m about to start a cabinet project and need all the help I can get. Thank you for taking the time!
Good refreshment choice
What spray guns do you use and at what psi?