Hello The Handyman. I am 19 years old and I am working as an electrician's apprentice with a solo self-employed master of 25 years. Since 16, I've been getting landscaping, painting and other odd jobs like a couple ceiling fans, some drywall repair. I thought you would like to know that I've been watching all your vids and learning everything I can because I want to have a successful home service business. I see you as someone I want to be like in the future. RUclips Rocks!!
My friend, you rock! Guys like me wish there were many more like you, you can't hire a kid (or anyone under 40) to do trade work to save your life today. Stick with it, and keep watching this guy. I'm 33 years in the trade and watch everything this guy puts out!
@@billysyms5761 You're right man. Only a few of my friends are going into the trades. At least 90% of my generation either doesn't like to work with their hands or are too scared/lazy.
@@nashboucher3822 unfortunately your generation thinks life is (or should be) easy. They'll work for me a day or two and quit "you work to hard". Very sad.
@@billysyms5761 Yes, part of me wishes I grew up in a different time. Phones and new technology have a big part in killing a lot of kids ambition, social skills and work ethic. I haven’t been alive for that long but times have definitely took a sharp turn since I was born.
I used to chuckle when I heard you say "You are watching the #1 home improvement Chanel in the entire world" in the intro...after watching you for many years...I now nod my head in agreement...Thank you for all you do! you are making the world a better place by sharing your hard earned knowledge.
Btw great tips here and instruction. Like the VO style as you work in a fast frame rate. Look forward to doing the next cabinet door your way. The wife prefers having the grain show under the paint - which shows it's real wood. Versus the wood putty fill over the grain - which could give off the MDF look. Thoughts? Think I prefer the subtle show of grain, but could just be me.
What size needle do you use on spray gun. Can I get the same results with an hvlp turbine sprayer? I'm learning and trying to get that factory finish . Excellent job by the way 👏
I really liked your video. I wish you would have given more detail on the products you used. For example, “they make a special filler.” What is the type or brand? Also what type of caulk did you use? Another example, “ this is pre-catylized lacquer.” What does that mean and what is the benefit? Thanks and keep up the good work.
I use a rotating stand when painting. You would not have to duck under, and potentially knock dust off your lights. (I made mine by taking the seat off an old office chair and replacing it with a platform.) I also use Duralaq and Ultralaq and have had very good success with them. The only difference is I use the white vinyl sealer. It's a great help for me in detecting imperfections before the finish coats.
Nice work. I've painted a LOT of cabinets and have never used a vinyl sealer before... only lacquer under-coaters. And if we're "closing the grain", we just spray more coats of primer and/or paint--until the grain is closed. That's the beauty of lacquers... you can re-coat almost immediately. Personally, I prefer an open grain look. Why use "real" wood (vs mdf) if you want the finish to look like plastic? When the grain is open, painted cabinets look like wood--not mdf. And I can usually explain that to a client well enough that they get it... but I of course give them the option to have open or closed grain--usually by showing them a sample of each. And, of course, we charge more to close the grain--since that takes more time and materials. I'd say it's about 50/50 in terms of client preference.
i think the simple answer on wood vs mdf for the frames is that poplar is easier to mill than mdf of the same dimensions. natural wood also stays together better. 1/4" mdf panels RULE for painted cabinetry.
"Why use "real" wood (vs mdf) if you want the finish to look like plastic? When the grain is open, painted cabinets look like wood--not mdf. " Totally agree. Closing the grain makes things look like pre-fab Ikea cabinets. It's extra work and expense to make something that looks more low-budget. Makes sense here, though: with the composite floating panel, you want things to match. Having open grain on the frame and a smooth panel would be a little odd.
I tried your recommendation on sealing the panel. It mostly worked. I used DAP bathroom caulk. I make my own doors so in the future I am going to put beads into the panel gap AND seal. As for the LINMAR, I had very good luck using this with a turbine sprayer without thinning. Grateful for that.
Nice tips. I use a super light chamfer bit in my palm router to ease the edges of my doors before sanding, perhaps 1/32 to 1/16" at most and hand sand them ever so lightly... helps keep the edges nice and crisp looking, but not so sharp they don't hold paint well like you said. Proper sanding and priming are really the key steps to any paint job. That cordless Dewalt sander is my favorite.
What paint cup brand and what compressor plzzz. I want a factory finish too. I've been doing with trim paint all these years. Also can you use the vinyl sealer on previously painted surfaces?
Just a few pointers as I have sprayed Lenmar for Over 20 years. Switch to the Lenmar Megavar Conversion Varnish. It is worth it by far. You will love the difference you see immediately. Also if those lights are not explosion proof I would be extremely careful. As with any solvent based finish any small spark including static can be deadly. Great channel keep up the good work.
When he said lacquer the first thing I did was cringe when I saw those lights! You've got to use LEDs for safety if you don't want to pop that roof off!
*8:58** tiny caulk smearing device... couldn't find it on your amazon storefront. Can ya add it next time you add to it, please? Thanks much for that tip!!*
A couple things to know about spraying lacquer for those who are new, learn from my mistakes. This video is great! I followed this to the tee and purchased equipment including a compressor, spray guns, etc. to produce the desired factory finish. My only critique is that I would have loved a little more information about the spraying setup, compressor used, product preparation, etc. I'm a meticulous person and did lots of prep and research before beginning this project. After all my prep and getting everything smooth as glass with sanding I made the mistake of assuming the lacquer would just flow out when I sprayed, it did not! I had horrible orange peel and all of my sanding work was for nothing I had to sand everything again. Rookie move, make sure you do plenty of testing before you spray anything on you're prepped cabinets. My lacquer was drying so fast it wasn't flowing out seemed like it was coming out of the gun already dry. With the lenmar tinted lacquer from this video I found I needed to thin and retard the product in order to get he desired finish but there is no mention of that prep step in this video. I thinned mine and retarded it in order to get it to layout without drying too fast around 30% dilution total, it took me some time to get to this solution but it certainly did fix my issues. I had to learn the hard way I hope this comment save some of you from making the same mistakes. Questions for video maker: 1) What dilution did you use when spraying the lacquer? 2) Do you prefer thinner or retardant for thinning or a combination? 3) What tip diameters did you spray with, different for sanding sealer vs top coat?
What kind of compressor do you usually use for this application? Can I use any size of compressor? What about the spray gun? Can you suggest a good one that I can buy without hurting the pocket? I'm a new DIYer when it comes to painting, and would really appreciate any advice. Thanks and more power to your channel!
I'm sorry if someone else asked this question already. What paint gun tip did you use? I would like to know the size the tip(s)? Is the tip size different for the sealer versus the paint? I'm assuming yes. And I'm assuming you are using two different guns: sealer and painting. Lastly, do you use an adjustable valved gauge with filter on your paint gun? If so, what can you tell me about it so that I can replicate your setup. Thank you ahead of time and great vid.
Can you tell me what type of sprayer that is (brand) also what size tips do you recommend for a job like this? What type of paint do you use and sealer, I have a project like this at home and your job looks phenomenal the finish is spot on.
I don't even bother with primer from the paint store anymore. Just get some awl grip high build primer from your marine store. You wont regret it its one coat and done for grain issues or blemishes. Great video!
I was searching for James Taylor, but I came across this video and couldn't stop watching. My boyfriend has a cabinet shop. He loves to make them, but he hates painting them. I think he'll enjoy this video. Your knife looks a lot like one of those Rambo knives that my brother wanted when we were younger.
Bro, I love your lights just hanging like that and your makeshift painting booth. Seriously. You could make a panting booth in such a tight area like yours. You don't need a whole lot of space.
Filing the grain is much much easier if you use a spray on high build , or filler primer. It also seals the wood and give a great base for shooting on pretty much any paint. Just used. 400/600 grit then spray on a single stage lacquer
Awesome video .....Quick question can you add color To Pre catalyze lacquer....??? I wanna do this to some large shoe box cabinets I'm working on in different colors mainly Black and Red .... and also orange ....
With each Cabinet I finish, a new experience I have. Years after years of experience with Cabinet Refinish, the conclusion is always perfect. Congratulations, a wonderful job. Boston, MA.
Hi Handyman, What brand/type of caulking and wood filler are you using in this video? I’m about to start a cabinet project and need all the help I can get. Thank you for taking the time!
Just ran upon your video. Excellent content. I'm curious about your wood filler. It looks like a thinner consistency to what I've used for other projects. What brand do you use?
Great video as always. Question: we have upcoming project to repaint a kitchen cabinets and doors. Once the surface is sanded down do we need to put a primer first or it’s ok to paint without primer?
I love your video, great job! I watched it multiple times and can’t find the info on what wood grain filler you used. Can you please share? Also is this lacquer able to be tinted to a color or sold in other colors? Thank you!
Thanks for the great video. Wish I would have found it sooner. I had a question on your vinyl sealer. Its that necessary or can you use a quality spray primer like M.L cambells clawlock? I used that this weekend and seemed to work pretty good but its $$$. I can use Vinyl sealer just leaning on what to do or not to do. Also, is there a particular pre-cat paint you like to go with? I already built my kitchen cabinets but havent painted them yet and was leaning towards cambells Turino. Its a post cat laquer and you may ask why Cambell? Its what i've always used for clear finishes so was sticking with the same products but Im open to suggestions. I appreciate your feedback and time and will support your channel anyway I can. Thanks again
Hey Handyman loving your channel and patreon. Wanted to know what kind of wood filler is that 🤔 I have a bug baseboard/door frame/door repair job and that would help out big time
Great video! Quick question though... what is the wood grain filler product you used? You said it was a special product but never actually said the name of it so we could purchase the same. Thanks for all the videos! I've learned a ton.
I have always been Leary about laquer. 3 years ago, I made new doors for my cabinets, my father wanted to "help" and talked me in to laquer. He sprayed everything with a spray gun but had the output at the full 120psi. He ruined everything. Laquer powder all over everything.
You can get MDF profile doors these days. They don't move like frame and panel timber doors do, they are cheaper and they paint up a treat, with minimal prep work.
The first bit of sending you did ? would you need to sand those outer pieces if they're new / unfinished? Obviously I want a round off the edges (the outside and the center of my cabinet doors are all unfinished oak. Do I need to send the cabinet door before adding in the wood green filler?
I agree with the comments. You do very good work. The patience and care is evident. Not wearing any protective gear or using any decent dust collection when sanding though. Ouch. I feel sorry for your respiratory system. Quality doesn’t have to mean sacrificing your health. Look out for your future self!
The Handyman knows how to use caulk to keep the housewives happy. I am having a terrible time finding a place locally to buy lacquer. I used acrylic enamel on my last project, and the finish it nice, but MAN does it dry slow.
Awesome tips, and just in the nick of time for me. Have a client who wants me to sand and repaint her kitchen in a custom color in a few weeks, and it'll be my first time. She probably won't like the price, but I think she's going to love the finished product now.
She won't like the price but this process appears to take around 4 hours per door, and that's not counting the curing time for the sealer, and then the paint, or removing, installing hardware and adjusting, etc.. And that's just the doors
@@warthogA10 So 4 hours per door.. average kitchen has around 30 doors which means 120 hours just for the doors. Then all the work that goes into the boxes. Yeah, I think your estimations are wildly off.
Depending on your area if you can find a spectrum paint I love their AllPro fast dry caulking it comes in a blue/gray tube. Ive Never been a fan of the dap products
I find the voice over style refreshing. The video where you convert carpeted stairs to wood (five years ago?) got me hooked. Not a lot of talking. Just showing. Keep it up.
someetimes we do not caulking because depending where you leave make the caulking cracking overtime,like people who lives in boston where they use a lot of heat at winter time,
What caulk are you using for the panel seam? I caulk this seam as well, but I have ran into problems with cracking. It's usually a year or two down the line that it happens.
How do deal with painting a cabinet with shelf pin holes? Do you drill those after you paint? Just trying to figure out how to avoid buildup in those little holes.
Thanks. I have had a few people say they don't like them. I think in the long run. The more useful info I can give in my videos the better they will do.
What's the wood putty/filler you're using? Also, where are you getting the vinyl paint and sealer? Looked on your amazon page and didn't see those. Also looked at my big box stores plus Benjamin Moore for the Lenmar.
Is that water based? Are you venting ? You seal first but don’t prime? I use the Lenmar water Bourne lacquer bc I don’t have an explosion proof fan I can’t get it flat enough
Hello Thank you for your help. I have a painter painting my cabinets and he painted all my drawer mechanisms. Is that correct thing to do? will this cause problems later
Had a question handyman. I have a client that wants his white cabinets painted to an espresso finish. Ha already has existing cabinets that are factory espresso but needs the other half painted. He just purchased a home and that’s how they had the cabinets. Will this process work for what I need to do? Also, I believe they’re not wood. They have that particle board smooth shiny finish. Is it possible to do?
How much does it cost per door to get it prep, sanded and painted? I have about 40 doors it’s stained maple and my wife is talking about painting them. That was before she did the dining room set and 8 chaires then she changed her mind about the kitchen cabinets. She saw how much work it was, now she want to get it done in a professional shop.
Just FYI ... (I am a professional painter, so I'm not learning anything here, just watching because I'm subscribed and interested in seeing how you do), "dries in 3 minutes", dry to the touch does not mean that the paint / lacquer has dried. We call it "degassing", the paint continues to lose humidity for up to 48 hours on average. I'm working at a luxury boat builder, I maintain the moulds, and let me tell you that when I paint for a repair, if I don't let it dry out a strict minimum of 24 hours (despite it being dry to the touch after 1 hour), and I sand then polish, there will be deformations from the paint still retracting due to loss of "humidity". Respect what is written on the product, the manufacturer who designed it knows better than any of us ... but once again, just because it's dry to the touch, does not mean it's dry.
If I need to sand between coats it's ready to sand in 30 minutes. Says so right on the can. I set them aside for 2 days before I deliver them to give it time to harden.
@@TheHandyman1 Was about to add, but forgot cause I went to make dinner, if you're applying a second coat right after, that's fine, it's called "flashing", where the paint hardens on the surface just enough to create a skin on which a new coat of paint can be applied without causing any runs ... after thinking about it and watching again, you do mention you don't sand between coats, you're right on this. If you were to sand between coats however, you would need to let it dry (harden) completely (30 minutes in your specific case, though I find that rather short tbh). Main reason I made the previous comment is because I've had people tell me X brand of paint is shit and not worth the (rather high) cost ... when they were at fault for not letting it harden fully. I get a little involved about my job, because too many people say that painting is easy ... then I go to their place to fix their shit job, and all of a sudden, they're surprised at how much better a professional job actually is. Like; absolutely no traces, even coats, all the details of filling in the most minute defect, sanding between coats for a perfect smooth finish ... etc. Nice job btw.
Loved the video and the process. As an FYI, you are wearing a 3M acid gas/ OV/ HEPA cartridge, indicated by the yellow label. You are paying extra for the acid gas protection which you don't need for painting with VOCs. You need the black label which is combination HEPA/OV or 3M 60921. Might save you a few bucks per cartridge and they last a bit longer as there is more carbon vs the acid absorbing media.
my new cabinets were paint with white pre-catalyzed paint but I see some lines that need to be filled, my question is, after filling it does it have to be paint again or the filing only will be enough? thanks
Thanks for showing your process of preparation but can you tell me what kind of filler you are using? I can not find anything that is soft enough to spread around like that.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello The Handyman. I am 19 years old and I am working as an electrician's apprentice with a solo self-employed master of 25 years. Since 16, I've been getting landscaping, painting and other odd jobs like a couple ceiling fans, some drywall repair. I thought you would like to know that I've been watching all your vids and learning everything I can because I want to have a successful home service business. I see you as someone I want to be like in the future. RUclips Rocks!!
My friend, you rock! Guys like me wish there were many more like you, you can't hire a kid (or anyone under 40) to do trade work to save your life today. Stick with it, and keep watching this guy. I'm 33 years in the trade and watch everything this guy puts out!
@@billysyms5761 You're right man. Only a few of my friends are going into the trades. At least 90% of my generation either doesn't like to work with their hands or are too scared/lazy.
@@nashboucher3822 unfortunately your generation thinks life is (or should be) easy. They'll work for me a day or two and quit "you work to hard". Very sad.
@@billysyms5761 Yes, part of me wishes I grew up in a different time. Phones and new technology have a big part in killing a lot of kids ambition, social skills and work ethic. I haven’t been alive for that long but times have definitely took a sharp turn since I was born.
@@billysyms5761 I've been trying to get into the electrician's union and they've haven't been accepting applications in months and months.
I used to chuckle when I heard you say "You are watching the #1 home improvement Chanel in the entire world" in the intro...after watching you for many years...I now nod my head in agreement...Thank you for all you do! you are making the world a better place by sharing your hard earned knowledge.
1:31 - Coors Light, the banquet of beers and cabinet refinishing. 🔥
Btw great tips here and instruction. Like the VO style as you work in a fast frame rate.
Look forward to doing the next cabinet door your way. The wife prefers having the grain show under the paint - which shows it's real wood. Versus the wood putty fill over the grain - which could give off the MDF look. Thoughts? Think I prefer the subtle show of grain, but could just be me.
Old school quality! Takes time, patience and talent.
Sucks that quality has become old school. It’s only downhill from here
What size needle do you use on spray gun. Can I get the same results with an hvlp turbine sprayer? I'm learning and trying to get that factory finish . Excellent job by the way 👏
Glad you explained about the composite material (MDF) for the panels. If you use panels made of solid wood the calk will crack.
I really liked your video. I wish you would have given more detail on the products you used. For example, “they make a special filler.” What is the type or brand? Also what type of caulk did you use? Another example, “ this is pre-catylized lacquer.” What does that mean and what is the benefit? Thanks and keep up the good work.
I believe the grain filler is made by Timbermate.
This is the exact thing I was thinking and it is not in his Amazon list FYI
I use a rotating stand when painting. You would not have to duck under, and potentially knock dust off your lights. (I made mine by taking the seat off an old office chair and replacing it with a platform.) I also use Duralaq and Ultralaq and have had very good success with them. The only difference is I use the white vinyl sealer. It's a great help for me in detecting imperfections before the finish coats.
Yes me too. Also use 3/4" ply cut down to 4x4" with drywall screws and bumpers on top.
Yeah, in our spray booth we have a lazy susan type set up that allows us to rotate the piece 360 degrees... which is definitely handy.
@maxeffort Omg that is such a genius idea (using an old office chair)! Thank you so much for sharing!!
Nice work. I've painted a LOT of cabinets and have never used a vinyl sealer before... only lacquer under-coaters. And if we're "closing the grain", we just spray more coats of primer and/or paint--until the grain is closed. That's the beauty of lacquers... you can re-coat almost immediately.
Personally, I prefer an open grain look. Why use "real" wood (vs mdf) if you want the finish to look like plastic? When the grain is open, painted cabinets look like wood--not mdf. And I can usually explain that to a client well enough that they get it... but I of course give them the option to have open or closed grain--usually by showing them a sample of each. And, of course, we charge more to close the grain--since that takes more time and materials. I'd say it's about 50/50 in terms of client preference.
i think the simple answer on wood vs mdf for the frames is that poplar is easier to mill than mdf of the same dimensions. natural wood also stays together better. 1/4" mdf panels RULE for painted cabinetry.
"Why use "real" wood (vs mdf) if you want the finish to look like plastic? When the grain is open, painted cabinets look like wood--not mdf. "
Totally agree. Closing the grain makes things look like pre-fab Ikea cabinets. It's extra work and expense to make something that looks more low-budget.
Makes sense here, though: with the composite floating panel, you want things to match. Having open grain on the frame and a smooth panel would be a little odd.
I tried your recommendation on sealing the panel. It mostly worked. I used DAP bathroom caulk. I make my own doors so in the future I am going to put beads into the panel gap AND seal. As for the LINMAR, I had very good luck using this with a turbine sprayer without thinning. Grateful for that.
Nice tips. I use a super light chamfer bit in my palm router to ease the edges of my doors before sanding, perhaps 1/32 to 1/16" at most and hand sand them ever so lightly... helps keep the edges nice and crisp looking, but not so sharp they don't hold paint well like you said. Proper sanding and priming are really the key steps to any paint job.
That cordless Dewalt sander is my favorite.
What paint cup brand and what compressor plzzz. I want a factory finish too. I've been doing with trim paint all these years. Also can you use the vinyl sealer on previously painted surfaces?
What kind of HVLP sprayer do you use? Does it hook straight up to your air compressor?
Just a few pointers as I have sprayed Lenmar for Over 20 years. Switch to the Lenmar Megavar Conversion Varnish. It is worth it by far. You will love the difference you see immediately. Also if those lights are not explosion proof I would be extremely careful. As with any solvent based finish any small spark including static can be deadly. Great channel keep up the good work.
Wow helpful info thank you!
I have similar lights and they are LED so no risk.
BUT still a good point to remember.
Yes… fine flammable vapor + exposed ignition source = BOOM 💥
When he said lacquer the first thing I did was cringe when I saw those lights! You've got to use LEDs for safety if you don't want to pop that roof off!
*8:58** tiny caulk smearing device... couldn't find it on your amazon storefront. Can ya add it next time you add to it, please? Thanks much for that tip!!*
A couple things to know about spraying lacquer for those who are new, learn from my mistakes.
This video is great! I followed this to the tee and purchased equipment including a compressor, spray guns, etc. to produce the desired factory finish. My only critique is that I would have loved a little more information about the spraying setup, compressor used, product preparation, etc. I'm a meticulous person and did lots of prep and research before beginning this project. After all my prep and getting everything smooth as glass with sanding I made the mistake of assuming the lacquer would just flow out when I sprayed, it did not! I had horrible orange peel and all of my sanding work was for nothing I had to sand everything again. Rookie move, make sure you do plenty of testing before you spray anything on you're prepped cabinets. My lacquer was drying so fast it wasn't flowing out seemed like it was coming out of the gun already dry. With the lenmar tinted lacquer from this video I found I needed to thin and retard the product in order to get he desired finish but there is no mention of that prep step in this video.
I thinned mine and retarded it in order to get it to layout without drying too fast around 30% dilution total, it took me some time to get to this solution but it certainly did fix my issues.
I had to learn the hard way I hope this comment save some of you from making the same mistakes.
Questions for video maker:
1) What dilution did you use when spraying the lacquer?
2) Do you prefer thinner or retardant for thinning or a combination?
3) What tip diameters did you spray with, different for sanding sealer vs top coat?
What gun and cfm compressor did you use? Been looking at LVLP so I don't need as large of a compressor
What kind of compressor do you usually use for this application? Can I use any size of compressor? What about the spray gun? Can you suggest a good one that I can buy without hurting the pocket? I'm a new DIYer when it comes to painting, and would really appreciate any advice. Thanks and more power to your channel!
Great vid. K-bar?
I'm sorry if someone else asked this question already. What paint gun tip did you use? I would like to know the size the tip(s)? Is the tip size different for the sealer versus the paint? I'm assuming yes. And I'm assuming you are using two different guns: sealer and painting. Lastly, do you use an adjustable valved gauge with filter on your paint gun? If so, what can you tell me about it so that I can replicate your setup. Thank you ahead of time and great vid.
Can you tell me what type of sprayer that is (brand) also what size tips do you recommend for a job like this? What type of paint do you use and sealer, I have a project like this at home and your job looks phenomenal the finish is spot on.
Hi, I just noticed your video ... Is that knife a K-bar used by USMC?
I don't even bother with primer from the paint store anymore. Just get some awl grip high build primer from your marine store. You wont regret it its one coat and done for grain issues or blemishes. Great video!
Man, 340k subs! I think I started watching around 20k. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for hangin with me for so long.
@@TheHandyman1 No problem! I enjoy your content and skills.
I was searching for James Taylor, but I came across this video and couldn't stop watching. My boyfriend has a cabinet shop. He loves to make them, but he hates painting them. I think he'll enjoy this video.
Your knife looks a lot like one of those Rambo knives that my brother wanted when we were younger.
Bet you were searching for that James Taylor classic - Factory finish on my painted cabinets, right? :-)
Hello, what spray tip size did you use please for the vinyl? Thx!
Bro, I love your lights just hanging like that and your makeshift painting booth. Seriously. You could make a panting booth in such a tight area like yours. You don't need a whole lot of space.
Filing the grain is much much easier if you use a spray on high build , or filler primer. It also seals the wood and give a great base for shooting on pretty much any paint. Just used. 400/600 grit then spray on a single stage lacquer
what primer you use to fill wood grain?
Awesome video .....Quick question can you add color To Pre catalyze lacquer....??? I wanna do this to some large shoe box cabinets I'm working on in different colors mainly Black and Red .... and also orange ....
With each Cabinet I finish, a new experience I have. Years after years of experience with Cabinet Refinish, the conclusion is always perfect. Congratulations, a wonderful job.
Boston, MA.
Hi Handyman, What brand/type of caulking and wood filler are you using in this video? I’m about to start a cabinet project and need all the help I can get. Thank you for taking the time!
Just ran upon your video. Excellent content. I'm curious about your wood filler. It looks like a thinner consistency to what I've used for other projects. What brand do you use?
Great video as always.
Question: we have upcoming project to repaint a kitchen cabinets and doors. Once the surface is sanded down do we need to put a primer first or it’s ok to paint without primer?
What type of paint is that? That's a great finish
What brand paint what brand vinyl sealer is it water based ?
12 minutes in he points the camera at them. Hit the pause button.
I get the same finish using oil based paint with an airless rig and fine finish tip
Kinda hard to buy oil based anymore.
@@LBCAndrew I don't have a problem getting it
Teacher what is the name of the paste you use to fill your grains? 3:54
So, what vinyl primer did you use? What filler did you use? I could not find this on your tools, in the video, or in answers to questions. Help?
Ok. I looked more closely at the video. Sealer is LENMAR Vinyl sanding sealer. Still I couldn't find the filler.
When I saw the Coors can I knew it was legit!
Say it ain't so.
I love your video, great job! I watched it multiple times and can’t find the info on what wood grain filler you used. Can you please share?
Also is this lacquer able to be tinted to a color or sold in other colors?
Thank you!
Aqua coat is a great wood grain filler
What kind of primer and paint are you using specifically?
care to share the product you mentioned that fills all ridges in oak doors?
Thanks for the great video. Wish I would have found it sooner. I had a question on your vinyl sealer. Its that necessary or can you use a quality spray primer like M.L cambells clawlock? I used that this weekend and seemed to work pretty good but its $$$.
I can use Vinyl sealer just leaning on what to do or not to do. Also, is there a particular pre-cat paint you like to go with? I already built my kitchen cabinets but havent painted them yet and was leaning towards cambells Turino. Its a post cat laquer and you may ask why Cambell? Its what i've always used for clear finishes so was sticking with the same products but Im open to suggestions. I appreciate your feedback and time and will support your channel anyway I can. Thanks again
Hey Handyman loving your channel and patreon. Wanted to know what kind of wood filler is that 🤔 I have a bug baseboard/door frame/door repair job and that would help out big time
Great video! Quick question though... what is the wood grain filler product you used? You said it was a special product but never actually said the name of it so we could purchase the same. Thanks for all the videos! I've learned a ton.
enjoyed the video, very helpful
what compressor are you using if i can ask?
Use featherfill catalyzed high build primer (stolen from automotive) on grain, then sand....unorthodox but fast and effective.
Would it not be better to use MDF and save filling in the grain?
What type of wood did you use for the rails and stiles? Thank you.
Hi, what is the brand & model of your air pump?
That knife you wanted ID on looked like a K-bar.
Great video, good scoop. Glad I found you and have subscribed.
I have always been Leary about laquer. 3 years ago, I made new doors for my cabinets, my father wanted to "help" and talked me in to laquer. He sprayed everything with a spray gun but had the output at the full 120psi. He ruined everything. Laquer powder all over everything.
Well, that was one old fool who screwed up. Not everyone is a fk up
You can get MDF profile doors these days. They don't move like frame and panel timber doors do, they are cheaper and they paint up a treat, with minimal prep work.
Great video. I learned a lot. What kind of grain filler do you use?
Would elastomeric caulking be the best caulking for the floating panel in case it swells with the weather?....
The first bit of sending you did ? would you need to sand those outer pieces if they're new / unfinished? Obviously I want a round off the edges (the outside and the center of my cabinet doors are all unfinished oak. Do I need to send the cabinet door before adding in the wood green filler?
I agree with the comments. You do very good work. The patience and care is evident. Not wearing any protective gear or using any decent dust collection when sanding though. Ouch. I feel sorry for your respiratory system. Quality doesn’t have to mean sacrificing your health. Look out for your future self!
A little Banquet never hurt anyone!
Do you a compressor with your gun an what paint did you use?
The Handyman knows how to use caulk to keep the housewives happy. I am having a terrible time finding a place locally to buy lacquer. I used acrylic enamel on my last project, and the finish it nice, but MAN does it dry slow.
What kind of wood filler are you using?
Grain filling stuff the same as for hw flooring (made by rustolium i think “pro finish”). If so, easy to work with.
Awesome tips, and just in the nick of time for me. Have a client who wants me to sand and repaint her kitchen in a custom color in a few weeks, and it'll be my first time. She probably won't like the price, but I think she's going to love the finished product now.
She won't like the price but this process appears to take around 4 hours per door, and that's not counting the curing time for the sealer, and then the paint, or removing, installing hardware and adjusting, etc..
And that's just the doors
@@warthogA10
So 4 hours per door.. average kitchen has around 30 doors which means 120 hours just for the doors. Then all the work that goes into the boxes. Yeah, I think your estimations are wildly off.
@@warthogA10 no..but seems more like 1 hr per door
What kind of paintable caulk do you recommend on wood cabinets? My cabinets look very similar to yours.
Depending on your area if you can find a spectrum paint I love their AllPro fast dry caulking it comes in a blue/gray tube. Ive Never been a fan of the dap products
Hi Handyman, thanks for sharing, learned alot, where did you get your full face respirator?
Can u put a link in to find the laquer and paint, thx
I find the voice over style refreshing. The video where you convert carpeted stairs to wood (five years ago?) got me hooked. Not a lot of talking. Just showing. Keep it up.
Thanks for the feedback.
someetimes we do not caulking because depending where you leave make the caulking cracking overtime,like people who lives in boston where they use a lot of heat at winter time,
What caulk are you using for the panel seam? I caulk this seam as well, but I have ran into problems with cracking. It's usually a year or two down the line that it happens.
I would also like to know the answer to this question.
Looks like Dap dynaflex ultra...
Have you ever used bondo as a filler? If so, what do you think about it?
Do you seal on top of the paint? My painted cabinets are chipping
How do deal with painting a cabinet with shelf pin holes? Do you drill those after you paint? Just trying to figure out how to avoid buildup in those little holes.
Hey! What is that blanket thing you're sanding on? I see lots of people use them, but can't seem to find them myself.
Moving blanket
I like these better where you really give extra details and information about the process.
Thanks. I have had a few people say they don't like them. I think in the long run. The more useful info I can give in my videos the better they will do.
What spray guns do you use and at what psi?
Maybe I missed something but did you say you were gonna sand it after painting?
Have you ever thought of using a turn table when painting? I just did ours on a semi professional home owner level and it was a life saver.
What spray tip did you use on the hvlp? Great video
What HVLP sprayer do you have there?
The Handyman What wood filler did you use?
When you paint you want to go with the grain have you air at 40 like you had and your material at 20 been spraying cabinets for years brother
Which vinyl sealer do you use?
so you applied lacquer before painting and after or just before?
What's the wood putty/filler you're using? Also, where are you getting the vinyl paint and sealer? Looked on your amazon page and didn't see those. Also looked at my big box stores plus Benjamin Moore for the Lenmar.
Is that water based? Are you venting ? You seal first but don’t prime?
I use the Lenmar water Bourne lacquer bc I don’t have an explosion proof fan
I can’t get it flat enough
KA-Bar?
Thanks for the instruction on cabinet finishing.
Why did you lacquer before paint instead of prime?
Is it the same as priming?
Hello Thank you for your help. I have a painter painting my cabinets and he painted all my drawer mechanisms. Is that correct thing to do? will this cause problems later
You have to sand MDF? And what kind of vinyl sealer?
Had a question handyman. I have a client that wants his white cabinets painted to an espresso finish. Ha already has existing cabinets that are factory espresso but needs the other half painted. He just purchased a home and that’s how they had the cabinets. Will this process work for what I need to do? Also, I believe they’re not wood. They have that particle board smooth shiny finish. Is it possible to do?
How much does it cost per door to get it prep, sanded and painted? I have about 40 doors it’s stained maple and my wife is talking about painting them. That was before she did the dining room set and 8 chaires then she changed her mind about the kitchen cabinets. She saw how much work it was, now she want to get it done in a professional shop.
Hey the handyman can you tell me what you use exactly for the panel in the middle?
Handyman what kinda caulk do you like to use?
Dynaflex 230
Hello Mr Handyman what are your opinions on deglosser as opposed to sanding?
Best handyman on youtube
Just FYI ... (I am a professional painter, so I'm not learning anything here, just watching because I'm subscribed and interested in seeing how you do), "dries in 3 minutes", dry to the touch does not mean that the paint / lacquer has dried. We call it "degassing", the paint continues to lose humidity for up to 48 hours on average.
I'm working at a luxury boat builder, I maintain the moulds, and let me tell you that when I paint for a repair, if I don't let it dry out a strict minimum of 24 hours (despite it being dry to the touch after 1 hour), and I sand then polish, there will be deformations from the paint still retracting due to loss of "humidity".
Respect what is written on the product, the manufacturer who designed it knows better than any of us ... but once again, just because it's dry to the touch, does not mean it's dry.
If I need to sand between coats it's ready to sand in 30 minutes. Says so right on the can. I set them aside for 2 days before I deliver them to give it time to harden.
@@TheHandyman1 Was about to add, but forgot cause I went to make dinner, if you're applying a second coat right after, that's fine, it's called "flashing", where the paint hardens on the surface just enough to create a skin on which a new coat of paint can be applied without causing any runs ... after thinking about it and watching again, you do mention you don't sand between coats, you're right on this.
If you were to sand between coats however, you would need to let it dry (harden) completely (30 minutes in your specific case, though I find that rather short tbh).
Main reason I made the previous comment is because I've had people tell me X brand of paint is shit and not worth the (rather high) cost ... when they were at fault for not letting it harden fully.
I get a little involved about my job, because too many people say that painting is easy ... then I go to their place to fix their shit job, and all of a sudden, they're surprised at how much better a professional job actually is.
Like; absolutely no traces, even coats, all the details of filling in the most minute defect, sanding between coats for a perfect smooth finish ... etc.
Nice job btw.
What about paint dilution and spray gun orifice specification?
Loved the video and the process. As an FYI, you are wearing a 3M acid gas/ OV/ HEPA cartridge, indicated by the yellow label. You are paying extra for the acid gas protection which you don't need for painting with VOCs. You need the black label which is combination HEPA/OV or 3M 60921. Might save you a few bucks per cartridge and they last a bit longer as there is more carbon vs the acid absorbing media.
Maybe it’s all he had lying around.
Thank for the info, will help me in the future
my new cabinets were paint with white pre-catalyzed paint but I see some lines that need to be filled, my question is, after filling it does it have to be paint again or the filing only will be enough? thanks
Thanks for showing your process of preparation but can you tell me what kind of filler you are using? I can not find anything that is soft enough to spread around like that.
Your quality and attention to detail is absolutely amazing 👏