@@10MinuteWorkshop I’m working on the MDF kitchen cabinet doors. I would like to finish with polyurethane. How many coats for durability? And do I sand every each coat?
Remember the old formaldehyde MDF? Hard as nails, superb finish! I remember it every time I put on my breathing mask and switch my respirator machine on to sleep every night. But it was good stuff, though.
what I love about your content is that you get all this really good work done in such a small space. A lot of youtubers have these wonderful shops but you work in something a little bigger than a closet and you turn out such solid work! Thank you for this!
Haha - I’ll have you know British closets are way smaller than my workshop!😂😂 Thanks! Yeah, I’d love more space, but the location and price is hard to beat! 😆👍👍
I frequently go back and watch your videos again when I need advice Peter and you've never let me down! Brilliant advice AND instruction. Thanks very much indeed! 👍
You seem to do everything with the minimum of movement. It is so enjoyable to watch a pro do something that many people (including me) think they can do. Thanks.
I was going to attempt the risky task of routing a pattern into my old, plain, flat laminated MDF cabinets and was dreading the inevitable chip-out and then you introduced me to 'faker shakers'! My whole project changed completely! This is a fantastic remedy that I can do with my table saw and some glue and clamps. I came to get painting tips and left with an entirely new concept. Many thanks!
I'm now a subscriber. What a show. There's no fat left on in editing and yet the information is easily absorbed. Everything is of the highest level, framing, lighting, sound. It's got it all.
Super video Peter - thank you! I've done tons of cabinets now and keep checking the changes in process online, was using Zinsser shellac primer but now only on small jobs as the cost is prohibitive also clean up would be different to top coats. I think the key is sanding sanding sanding, really as long using a good acrylic eggshell its going to be good. I do much prefer the edge banding now just don't have to sand and round-over as much on the edges. Love your channel!
Hi peter, A tecnique i use is to clamp a few doors or panels together,where possible,then sand with festool 150 and give all edges two coats of primer and allow to dry.then you can work on fronts and backs easier.just my way ,but it does work.great video as usual.cheers.
Thanks very much for the helpful video Peter, I’ve learned a great deal, especially which paint/primer to use, my old wardrobe doors were previously vinyl wrapped but over time it has peeled away so I’ve removed it and will now give the doors a paint using your tips and method. Thanks again 👍🏻
Another excellent presentation. I enjoy your methodical approach to your work. You are technical without being boring, taxing or pretentious and I appreciate that very much. Thanks for another quality video.
Thanks for these videos Peter! I just finished my first Millardian (MDF, dominos, tracksaw) piece of bespoke furniture. Your videos inspired the plunge. I added the last coat of paint (per your instructions) today to the wall mounted bookcase I've built. I can say things came out pretty square, strong and professional-looking in the finish. The success first try is pretty much all down to your clear, straightforward instruction in all these videos. Thank you and merry christmas!
Thank you Mr Millard, sir. I would say you have saved my bacon! Having cleared out an apartment I own and getting ready for sale of the property, I found that one of the kitchen cabinet doors had the vinyl high gloss shrink covering half ripped off. As the cabinets were installed almost 20yrs ago, they are now discontinued items. No doubt any purchaser will want to update the kitchen units but the state they are in currently will not be appealing - pure white high gloss doors, all but one, which is down to the raw MDF. I will try your technique and use spray lacquer to attain that high gloss finish, hopefully. Your video is so very instructive and helpful. Thank you so much for posting Peter. Best regards from Northern Ireland. 😀👍☘️
New sub. You are amazing. You explain things in the simplest form for people like me (who dont catch on to easy on handy things) can understand. Best of all, I think you've just saved a marital argument about a kitchen rehab. We've been watching your videos today on how to make the doors, hinge, paint etc. and I think we are going to try it. Thanks so much!
Peter try 1 primer, 1 undercoat and 1 top coat using a decent paint like Sikkens, also try laying off with a dry roller for a more even texture, buying cheap paint is a false economy as you put extra coats on, also having the extra layers will make it more prone to chipping, I prefer the pure bristle sash brush over the synthetic one, but I use the same sponge rollers though.. good job
Thanks Peter for a very complete video, and for taking the time to assemble the matching shopping list! I see painting as a necessary evil as I've yet to find a satisfying solution for MR MDF doors, so your tips are much appreciated and will be put to the test!
Well Peter that video had me on the edge of my seat ,i always find spraying leaves a nicer finish and the drying time is cut in half ,but the mess and the cleaning of the spray guns or the grayco max is a lot of work
Thanks Syd. Yes, as I say, brush & roller is a very ‘contained’ way of painting, and I’ve had a few clients say that the sprayed finish looked too ‘manufactured’ they want a hand-made piece to have brushstrokes! 😂🤷♂️👍
I feel a disclaimer is needed for this video. Many people will think painting will go this perfectly and mess-free. In reality, the doors will be dropped as they are moved about, the paint will run copiously into the hinge pockets and then like a river across the door, etc. You made it look superhuman Peter. lol
Yeah, Peter Perfect, that’s me! 😂😂 I think I did mention the dropped door, but sure - everyone has to learn the hard way, I just aim to make it a little easier, is all. 👍👍
I recently found myself making a lot of painted MRMDF stuff. One thing that used to kill my production time was once I paint, I can't carry on cutting due to the dust despite my dust extraction working its best. Lucky for me I had the space to set up a permanent spray booth. Good video Peter even if its the way I do it myself👍
Great video. For a better smoother finish using brush and rollers and without spray paint, I recommend adding Floetrol to the finishing paint before use. Also BIN primer sealer (shellac based) would give much better results than other primers.
Thanks. As I think I say in the vid, using a decent quality MR MDF makes a huge difference, and while I'm a big fan of BIN, I can typically use regular primer/undercoat with MR without any issues. 👍
I've painted lots of MDF, with lots of edges (I made all my house's millwork with MDF). Things I've found out: (1) use the highest quality MDF you can get hold of (2) use a SHARP blade when cutting & get the cleanest edge off the saw that you can (3) prime--preferably 2 or 3 coats w/ a quick-drying shellac-based primer--in the States, Zinsser BIN 123 is a great choice--it dries incredibly fast, seals well, and is compatible with any top coat (4) if you have a little inside lip like on these doors, a little painter's caulk quickly and properly applied will make it perfect (5) take your time painting, sand lightly between coats, and control dust. That's it. Painting MDF isn't magic by any means, but it is critical to seal with a good primer, IMO.
@@davidbuchan2224 I do not know. I haven’t tried it for that. I suspect that it will, but might need more than 1 coat. And certainly you might need filler also, depending on the knot. I would fill it if needed first, then use a couple coats of the Zinsser as a sealer. My gut tells me that should work.
@@davewright9312 Thank you for taking the time to reply - yes, have painted some particularly knotty pine... no sign of them coming through - it's worth the money!
If you use a coat of sanding sealer, ether shellac or polyurethane based first it seals the MDF surface ready for painting and is really inexpensive. The paint then goes on smooth as glass especially when sprayed and doesn't soak into the MDF at all even the cheap none moisture resistant stuff.
Loving the videos. Im a painter by trade and I recommend you try "Sheild" undercoat. It flairs up cut edges and timber grain. It may seem very rough at the start but after its fully hard and dry, it can be very easily sanded smooth almost like Glass. Much like a high build primer for automotive.
Thanks for the top tip about corner protectors, Peter. I kept about 50 metres of them as I knew they’d come in useful....only having not thought of anything useful in the 4 months I’ve had them I threw them away (recycling, of course) last week. Only have 7 shaker doors to paint next week. Typical!! 🤣🙄. Noted for the future though.
Personally I use either a polyurethane or shellac based sanding sealer before paint. It seals the MDF beautifully without causing any rough surface, then the paint goes on smooth as glass especially when sprayed. Reduces sanding and provides a far superior finish, even on cheap MFD.
Paul I’m a bit confused. Is sanding sealer same thing as a primer or different? Is it white or transparent? What does the “sanding” part mean…that it needs to be sanded after? Why is this much better than the white primer in the video? What does this allow you to do that normal primer doesn’t?
Industry secret for you, use button polish. It’s much much cheaper than anything labbled MDF sealer. Shellac based. Dries incredibly fast. Nearly instantly. seals and takes less coats to get the same finish.
I Like your videos. My top tip is line the paint try with tin foil saves having to clean it out. Just screw it up and bin it when finished. I always buy an extra Turkey roll at Christmas for the big trays. 👍 Keep up the good work 👍
You can get wire loops that clip into the 35mm hinge holes, and make it easier to handle and hang the doors up to dry. Good for spraying too. I can't remember where I saw them ( might be Rutlands) but the innovative amongst us could probably make some from wire coathangers.
This is very clear and informative thank you! I’m about to embark on a diy job on my mdf cabinet doors - they’re plain, with bevelled edge. I’ve peeled off the gloss plastic coating and the mdf underneath looks like it’s been sealed (slight sheen.. maybe that’s the adhesive?). No idea whether it’s MR MDF ☹️ So I think I’ll use the Zinsser shellac primer (brush/roller) so many people recommend. I’m using a water-based eggshell for top coats (Little Greene intelligent eggshell). My neighbour is going to help and says spraying will produce a better finish. Having seen you roll and brush your doors I’m wondering whether my neighbour is right..?? Spraying looks incredibly messy and I’m guessing uses more paint. A couple of questions: should I fill handle holes with wood filler before priming? And what grade(s) sandpaper is best for sanding between coats? Thank you 😊
Great , informative, to the point , iv been painting for 30 odd years always use Leyland primer undercoat 1hr redcoat time and I have never got it to cover like that in one coat , amazing , made me laugh out loud with the bit about keeping the door further on the work surface and not to ask how you know , looking forward to your next video
Fantastic Peter. Really enjoyed that. Had thought of using that tape, won't bother now lol. Video was superbly put together, really nice. End music was a nice change. 👍👍👍👍
Agree, but also look into good paint if doing it yourself. Paint and primers with hardners make a huge difference to work with, drying time is also incredible. Pre catalysed stuff is dry to touch in 10 and you can sand in about 30min
Professional painter are a joke when it comes to painting cabinet doors. Water based paints suck. Solvent based are MUCH better. Having a professionally refinisher is going to give you much better results
Your painter maybe a joke but ive built a relationship with a very skilled painter, she is one in a million! The material looks like a spray finish in the end!
I use 1 coat MDF primer (to stop MDf bleeding through) & 2-3 coats top coats finish of choice. Edge banded all round. Bigger doors need painting all in one go else they curl !
Yep I've got the fancy Graco gxff machine but sometimes just can't face the set up and clean down! You need a dedicated room or booth to make it worthwhile, which I don't have!
It’s sometimes difficult to find the voice of reason, but Peter is just that. Many YT videos proclaim that a water-based paint should not be used on MDF, but they’re almost always referring to the edges of MDF. In my case, I was about to embark on painting 40 or so brand new Shaker-style cabinet doors consisting of maple rails and stiles with MDF panels, so I wasn’t faced with painting the edges. Peter’s video gave me the confidence to use a water-based primer, and it has worked out beautifully. I double checked with my local paint supply store, Sherwin-Williams, and the most knowledgeable person there also recommended a water-based primer. Their top coat recommendation was their Emerald product, which is also amazing.
Thanks for your postings. You may want to consider putting your paint tray into a plastic carrier bag before filling. when your done, throw the bag away and no cleaning up to do. Also, if you make a couple of 35mm discs, cut them in half and fix to a small sprung 'scissors', you can use the hinge holes to hold the doors. You can use a wood or steel bar, or a length of string to hang them. You can the do all four edges each time.
With respect, that’s a terrible idea - the plastic bag sticks to the wet paint and lifts away from the tray every time you prime the roller. Tin foil is better as it tends to stay put, but best of all is a cheap tray liner that’s virtually unnoticeable - I’m using one here - but does the job with out any of the above disadvantages. Also means that you can keep the liner active with eg primer, and still move on to topcoat without tying up another tray. 👍👍
Pretty much any fast grab PVA will do the job. I’ve used all kinds over the years and have never found a scrap of difference between them. I tend to use PolyTen 10-minute PVA because I could buy it in 5-litre tubs, then decant into smaller bottles, but I’ll use anything, and I’d suggest using whatever you can get your hands in easily. 👍👍
Very interested to see the lack of difference between edgebanded and non. I definitely find that a good quality MR MDF doesn’t need edgebanding. Re drying times, do you stick to manufacturers guide or just repaint when dry to the touch? Something I’m never sure about!
Great video as normal Peter, Couple of things to mention on painting MDF (and other materials) to others less skilled than you. 1. "Knock of the arris" as my dad always used to say. Paint can't and won't physically stick to a sharp corner. It is therefor important to sand all sharp edges. Only needs a tiny flick over when doing your de-nibbing but makes a massive difference. 2. Fat edges. Most common mistake by novice painters is leaving fat edges (excessive amounts of paint) on the adjacent face. You were clearly knocking your fat edges off with the roller but didn't mention this technique. It's a simple thing but often overlooked. Pain to remove once dry as when sanding them you end up going back to bare wood. 3. First coat layoff. When you put that first primer coat on always be mindful of not leaving big splodges anywhere, even if you will be going over that area again in 30 seconds. MDF sucks that first coat straight in and if it's to thick in areas it can be a pain to sand out later. You do have a little more 'work time' as the coats progress but just be mindful. 4. Water/shellac/oil. This is aimed more at high end finishes but the water based paints can cause other issues. Sometimes something a little more robust is needed, a shellac based primer is a good alternative. Quick drying but a little more hard wearing and seals the fibres a little better. 5. Last one again is difficult to control but drying area is important. Although the water based paints are quick drying there is nothing worse than taking your time building up layers of paint and sanding between all coats to have the final coat ruined by some dust or other debris blowing all over your wet paint. Try keep the airflow controlled and free from crap, clean your work area before painting and be mindful of other jobs whilst things are drying nearby. We spray when we can but still do loads of hand painting where the sprayer isn t a viable option. Good luck. Hope that
Great info thanks John - can ask about the corners again? I am going to get some mdf slab kitchen doors made, not shaker just plain. Should I ask the guy who cuts them to round all the edges slightly? Or just do it by hand? Thank you!
@@lizziebarker8399 Hi Lizzie, No need to ask, its something you can do yourself. I presume you're getting plain MDF slab? Are you painting them yourself? 18mm? Best to get them all primed then when you sand just gently go over the edges with something like 120g or 150g just to knock the sharpness off.
@@JohnSmith-qv3db thanks John! I was thinking 22mm MDF and yes I’m going to start with a small kitchen island and see if I can paint it myself, then do the rest of the doors if I get a good enough result!
Hi Peter, great video as always. Would the same method apply when painting the body of the wardrobes/cabinets? Would you recommend a clear layer of perhaps a polyurethane coat on any surface that will have something resting on it? Clothes or ornaments etc? I've ended up with a slight tacky result when using a quickdrying satinwood. This time I've gone for a bathroom emulsion and hoping it'll be a better finish. Cheers
Hi and thanks! Yes, absolutely - I've used this identical method with every cabinet carcass I've painted, wether they were wardrobes, chests of drawers, whatever. The only time I've ever had a slightly soft finish like you describe is with a farrow &n ball paint where their primer wasn't used; if you regularly get a finish like that then I'd look at sorting that out rather than applying a clear coat. 👍
The use of packing corners is a revelation Peter! :-) 'Why didn't I think of that'... I've got a whole stack of them destined for the bin... not anymore! `Great video as always!
Very nice video. My 2 cents: the difference between edgebanding and manual painting is visible - check 16:24. I am quite sure the edgebanding is on the panel on top.
@@10MinuteWorkshop Wow! I really thought the visible side of top door was edgebanding :)))) Later edit: and now I'm confused - I thought the 16:24 shot was to show edgebanding and edgepainting side by side...
Hi Peter - I use the exact same rollers. I have found that, once rolled, very lightly going over with a dry roller reduces the orange peel significantly. Thanks for the videos... and thanks to you I've been forced into buying a Domino... can't wait for it to arrive! Please do a Domino video!
Precisely using two rollers as one can be slightly dryer as it's not to heavy loaded with paint won't leave orange peel and leave it factory Finnish flat, personally I like to use synthetic mohair rollers, obviously washing out any loose fibres and even doublely making sure any loose fibers are run out by using them on scrap wood/walls ,you then have a broken in ready to fine Finnish as essentially the nap fibre roller sleeve whips the paint flat. Fast backrolling also uses less paint if you happen to be short of paint and time ,on a new build full panel door should take no more than 15 minutes either side ,I like your attention to detail and we can and some times take too long to .... unless on a price to keep that momentum up so every stroke matters
It wasn't wood. I thought Peter made it clear, he was painting MDF - there are very good practical reasons for doing so. (I'm assuming you weren't joking).
Hi Peter What do you do with large doors (like 160x60cm)? Your technique is perfect for small doors but when it's big and heavy it's really hard to succeed in painting all 6 sides in a small workshop... best regards
Hi Peter, returning to this video again as we redo our kitchen! For painting inside of melamine and mrmdf units, do you recommend using any type of clear coat or varnish etc. to protect shelving etc. from wear and tear over time?
I always found the paint to be just fine; the only time I’ve added a clear coat was when a customer wanted a specific colour of emulsion paint she already had, so aI used that and added a satin lacquer over it, and it worked well. But if you can use eggshell or satin finish paint then that should be enough. 👍
peter, i know the shop is small ,however, does it have en suite facilities? you do so much more with so much less that it is a treat to watch your videos thanx rick
Try a LVLP spray gun I use mine with a 8 gallon 1 1/2 hp compressor. I have an Graco airless and a HVLP but the LVLP is the best by a long long long way. Over spray is almost nonexistent, it sprays at a reasonable rate, clean up is the easiest by far and it is inexpensive.
I'll be revisiting this video and the "2 Doors" video when I've finished building my garage and start to outfit it with some cabinets. Your videos have inspired me to build my cabinets rather than buy, so a TS55 is on my shopping list (using a bit of man maths it pays for iteself!) and hopefully lead to enjoying doing some small projects. My garage will be mainly for storing and working on my cars and motorbikes, so the old school reg plate on your wall peeked my interest, is there a story behind it?
Thanks! And great to hear my videos have helped! The ref plate is from my first car - an Austin A40. Pile of junk - but it was *my* pile of junk! 😂 bit.ly/Austin_A40 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Its funny how however crap they are, our first cars always have a special place in our hearts. My Micra was terrible in every measurable metric, but I loved every mile I put on it, it was my FREEDOM!
Great video! Need advice on choosing the paint. What sort of paint is best to use when durability is required? I made a shaker style MDF doors for bathroom cabinet, but the paint (dark grey colour) is not resistant to touching, finger nail scratches. I will be re-priming and repainting the doors. Would clear coat be an option in this scenario?
Dear Peter, would you have any tips for painting MDF door for a bathroom cabinet? Especially which paint to use and how to give extra protection to the edges?
As mentioned in the video, use decent quality branded MRMDF, a couple of coats of primer/undercoat on the edges and you’re good to go. You don’t need to do anything special with it. 👍👍
Old video but I am working through your back catalogue. You replied to my comment on all the good tracksaws getting sold out when you say they are half decent. :) Now another question about paints, no issues getting the acrylic undercoat/primer but can you use any paint over the top? Looking to paint a light grey and notice Screwfix sell Leyland Eggshell Dark Grey emulsion (Multi-Surface). Can I use that over the Acrylic Undercoat? Can I mix that with the Acrylic Eggshell to give a lighter shade? Many Thanks.
Thanks. I’ve never done it - I’ve always kept the topcoat of the same type as primer/undercoat, but I’m not a painter/decorator so I couldn’t say if it’s a good idea or not tbh. You could ask the tech guys at the paint company - they all have helplines / customer service. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks, popped an email to the company a few days back and the reply was a bit vague, they seemed to suggest it would be fine. A follow up email pointing out my concern on the drying times being different and the response changed to no don't do that. May get a couple of small tins and have a play to see if they will mix or coat without issues. I have an exact colour in mind, so maybe it would be worthwhile getting a larger batched pre mixed? Or maybe be less fussy? :)
Hi Peter, thank you for your informative videos. Could I please pick your brains, and Apologies for my ignorance! I rarely work with MDF but I’m about to make a wardrobe for my granddaughter, I understand that MR MDF needs to be sealed prior to a top coat (probably use Zinzer) and I was wondering if I could seal the MDF parts prior to assembly using dominoes, it would just make life easier using a roller and brush, just wondered if the glue would adhere to the sealer/undercoat. Appreciate any advice Peter
95% of everything I’ve ever made was from MRMDF and I’ve never once used a sealer. For non MR then maybe, if you’re not sure of the provenance, but any decent branded MRMDF just needs a primer undercoat then the topcoats of your choice. I go through the process most recently in the Painting MDF Doors video. 👍
Great vid as usual peter.! - just a bit surprised that you haven’t came up with an ingenious quick clamp / spreader based semi circular jawed hinge pocket door hanging device and rack to make handling those wet doors a little easier… P.S. if you come up with one and make a fortune remember my intellectual royalties…😳😄💪🏻
Hi Terry and thanks. Yes I have, and honestly found it was just another ‘magic potion’ to have to stock. If it works for you then that’s great, but it didn’t do anything for me I’m afraid. 🤷♂️👍👍
I use the Leyland acrylic primer. Good value. The Rustin's is also good, I think all the Rustin's paints are great. Their primer/undercoat is higher build than the Leyland. Which is handy if you need that..
Thank you for a superb video as always. I've recently followed your tips and (using the Leyland Acrylic Primer) managed to paint some MDF sections in a new kitchen, that were used to box in the top of the units. The sanding between coats is certainly an essential step.
Hi Peter, love your videos thank you for sharing! I always struggle a lot cleaning up the brushes and the stuff related to painting, I did see you kept the painting tray with a plastic bag and that is a tip I picked up already but it’d be great to know (hint for a video :-) if you just throw away the roller or clean it, same with the tray and any brushes. In my case I always try to clean and reuse but cleaning is such a chore that most of the time I end up not painting because I hate to clean and I am sure I am doing something wrong so it’d be great to learn. Keep up the great content!
Hi, and thanks! I don't do anything like as much painting as I used to, but I basically kept the brushes and rollers 'active' for the duration of the painting session by keeping them wrapped up/covered ie in the tray and under the same bag, or in clingfilm , and then I'd clean the brushes at the end of the session, and usually throw the rollers away. The reason for chucking the rollers is two-fold; firstly, at the end of a painting session they're often not in great shape anyway, and secondly I don't really want to wash that much paint down the drain. That's worked for me, anyway! HTH, P.
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This guy is a natural at these videos. Warm, friendly, professional, sage. Good hosting.
Thank you! 👍
He's a natural broadcaster!
@@10MinuteWorkshop I’m working on the MDF kitchen cabinet doors. I would like to finish with polyurethane. How many coats for durability? And do I sand every each coat?
Remember the old formaldehyde MDF? Hard as nails, superb finish! I remember it every time I put on my breathing mask and switch my respirator machine on to sleep every night. But it was good stuff, though.
@@kabirjeremias6434 Yeah, I care. And yes, I'd like to hack her account, too.
what I love about your content is that you get all this really good work done in such a small space. A lot of youtubers have these wonderful shops but you work in something a little bigger than a closet and you turn out such solid work! Thank you for this!
Haha - I’ll have you know British closets are way smaller than my workshop!😂😂 Thanks! Yeah, I’d love more space, but the location and price is hard to beat! 😆👍👍
I sure do wish I'd watched this a couple of days ago. These techniques are spot on.
Thanks! 👍👍
I frequently go back and watch your videos again when I need advice Peter and you've never let me down! Brilliant advice AND instruction. Thanks very much indeed! 👍
You seem to do everything with the minimum of movement. It is so enjoyable to watch a pro do something that many people (including me) think they can do. Thanks.
Thanks! There just isn’t that much space to live in, lol! 😂😂👍👍
Peter Millard Your professional skill is obvious in every video you do and it is a joy to watch. Cheers from Alberta, Canada.
David Clark Well, thanks for watching, and best wishes from London! 🙌👍👍
I was going to attempt the risky task of routing a pattern into my old, plain, flat laminated MDF cabinets and was dreading the inevitable chip-out and then you introduced me to 'faker shakers'! My whole project changed completely! This is a fantastic remedy that I can do with my table saw and some glue and clamps. I came to get painting tips and left with an entirely new concept. Many thanks!
Yep this opened my eyes to other ways it can be done
I stand in admiration and indeed awe of the tool-lean approach you take to painting.
I really like that you go actually in details, tips, comments
Appreciate it! Its veru important to me as im just starting out
Thanks 🙂
I'm now a subscriber. What a show. There's no fat left on in editing and yet the information is easily absorbed. Everything is of the highest level, framing, lighting, sound. It's got it all.
Thanks, and welcome! 👍
Super video Peter - thank you! I've done tons of cabinets now and keep checking the changes in process online, was using Zinsser shellac primer but now only on small jobs as the cost is prohibitive also clean up would be different to top coats. I think the key is sanding sanding sanding, really as long using a good acrylic eggshell its going to be good. I do much prefer the edge banding now just don't have to sand and round-over as much on the edges. Love your channel!
Hi peter, A tecnique i use is to clamp a few doors or panels together,where possible,then sand with festool 150 and give all edges two coats of primer and allow to dry.then you can work on fronts and backs easier.just my way ,but it does work.great video as usual.cheers.
That's actually a great tip.
Thanks very much for the helpful video Peter, I’ve learned a great deal, especially which paint/primer to use, my old wardrobe doors were previously vinyl wrapped but over time it has peeled away so I’ve removed it and will now give the doors a paint using your tips and method. Thanks again 👍🏻
Another excellent presentation. I enjoy your methodical approach to your work. You are technical without being boring, taxing or pretentious and I appreciate that very much. Thanks for another quality video.
Thank you! 🙌👍
Thanks for these videos Peter! I just finished my first Millardian (MDF, dominos, tracksaw) piece of bespoke furniture. Your videos inspired the plunge. I added the last coat of paint (per your instructions) today to the wall mounted bookcase I've built. I can say things came out pretty square, strong and professional-looking in the finish. The success first try is pretty much all down to your clear, straightforward instruction in all these videos. Thank you and merry christmas!
Sounds like a great project! Thanks so much for letting me know! 🙌👍
You are very good peter. Enjoy your videos very much. thank you.
Thank you Mr Millard, sir. I would say you have saved my bacon! Having cleared out an apartment I own and getting ready for sale of the property, I found that one of the kitchen cabinet doors had the vinyl high gloss shrink covering half ripped off. As the cabinets were installed almost 20yrs ago, they are now discontinued items. No doubt any purchaser will want to update the kitchen units but the state they are in currently will not be appealing - pure white high gloss doors, all but one, which is down to the raw MDF. I will try your technique and use spray lacquer to attain that high gloss finish, hopefully. Your video is so very instructive and helpful. Thank you so much for posting Peter. Best regards from Northern Ireland. 😀👍☘️
New sub. You are amazing. You explain things in the simplest form for people like me (who dont catch on to easy on handy things) can understand. Best of all, I think you've just saved a marital argument about a kitchen rehab. We've been watching your videos today on how to make the doors, hinge, paint etc. and I think we are going to try it. Thanks so much!
Thank you so much! Really appreciate the feedback - let me know how you get on! 👍👍
Peter try 1 primer, 1 undercoat and 1 top coat using a decent paint like Sikkens, also try laying off with a dry roller for a more even texture, buying cheap paint is a false economy as you put extra coats on, also having the extra layers will make it more prone to chipping, I prefer the pure bristle sash brush over the synthetic one, but I use the same sponge rollers though.. good job
Learned alot that I really don't need spray painting when less massy easy way is there. Thanks a lot.
Thanks Peter for a very complete video, and for taking the time to assemble the matching shopping list! I see painting as a necessary evil as I've yet to find a satisfying solution for MR MDF doors, so your tips are much appreciated and will be put to the test!
Thanks! 👍👍
look at the cloths, so clean, not a drop on him. Wow!
the last coat dose seem to go fastest. I liked the speed of the time laps.
Was like watching 'Bob Ross' (without the hair) Happy little shaker doors... ;)
😂👍👍
I was thinking the same :D
@@10MinuteWorkshop "Big 'ole" spoke here...
Great video! And loved your work in Legends of Tomorrow!
OK, I had to look that one up, but you're right - me and Wentworth Miller, like brothers from another mother... 😂 And thanks! 👍
Muy educativo y valioso tus videos, cada dia aprendo algo gracias a tus explicaciones ordenadas y objetivas. Gracias.-
Thank you!
Peter, as always your tips are appreciated! As considered by someone who hates to paint.
Thanks Steve! 👍👍
Love the videos Peter! They are so informative and great to watch. Hope your well 👍🏼
Thanks Simon, glad you like them! And yes, all well, thanks! 👍
Some great tips there, I particularly like that little sanding block. Cheers.
Thanks! 👍👍
Well Peter that video had me on the edge of my seat ,i always find spraying leaves a nicer finish and the drying time is cut in half ,but the mess and the cleaning of the spray guns or the grayco max is a lot of work
Thanks Syd. Yes, as I say, brush & roller is a very ‘contained’ way of painting, and I’ve had a few clients say that the sprayed finish looked too ‘manufactured’ they want a hand-made piece to have brushstrokes! 😂🤷♂️👍
I feel a disclaimer is needed for this video. Many people will think painting will go this perfectly and mess-free. In reality, the doors will be dropped as they are moved about, the paint will run copiously into the hinge pockets and then like a river across the door, etc. You made it look superhuman Peter. lol
Yeah, Peter Perfect, that’s me! 😂😂 I think I did mention the dropped door, but sure - everyone has to learn the hard way, I just aim to make it a little easier, is all. 👍👍
Great video. Very clearly explained and good references to the tools and materials used. I will be watching more!
Thanks! 👍
I recently found myself making a lot of painted MRMDF stuff. One thing that used to kill my production time was once I paint, I can't carry on cutting due to the dust despite my dust extraction working its best. Lucky for me I had the space to set up a permanent spray booth. Good video Peter even if its the way I do it myself👍
Thanks! Yes, having a small workspace where you have to paint & work is a real production killer. 🤷♂️👍
Great video. For a better smoother finish using brush and rollers and without spray paint, I recommend adding Floetrol to the finishing paint before use. Also BIN primer sealer (shellac based) would give much better results than other primers.
Thanks. As I think I say in the vid, using a decent quality MR MDF makes a huge difference, and while I'm a big fan of BIN, I can typically use regular primer/undercoat with MR without any issues. 👍
Ditto on both 👍Fletrol will lay as flat as a spray once you get used to the best mix ratio with your paint of choice.
I cant remember that I saw a youtube use a primer. Interesting subject. You make it look easy. Thank you.
Thanks Frits! 👍👍
Fascinating as ever. After watching this I understand better why you invested so comprehensively in spraying for the economies of time it represents.
Thanks! 👍
I've painted lots of MDF, with lots of edges (I made all my house's millwork with MDF). Things I've found out: (1) use the highest quality MDF you can get hold of (2) use a SHARP blade when cutting & get the cleanest edge off the saw that you can (3) prime--preferably 2 or 3 coats w/ a quick-drying shellac-based primer--in the States, Zinsser BIN 123 is a great choice--it dries incredibly fast, seals well, and is compatible with any top coat (4) if you have a little inside lip like on these doors, a little painter's caulk quickly and properly applied will make it perfect (5) take your time painting, sand lightly between coats, and control dust. That's it. Painting MDF isn't magic by any means, but it is critical to seal with a good primer, IMO.
Darin - do you know if the Zinsser (which I have and agree - it's fab) will seal knots?
@@davidbuchan2224 I do not know. I haven’t tried it for that. I suspect that it will, but might need more than 1 coat. And certainly you might need filler also, depending on the knot. I would fill it if needed first, then use a couple coats of the Zinsser as a sealer. My gut tells me that should work.
@@davidbuchan2224 hi David the bin primer does seal knots
@@davewright9312 Thank you for taking the time to reply - yes, have painted some particularly knotty pine... no sign of them coming through - it's worth the money!
If you use a coat of sanding sealer, ether shellac or polyurethane based first it seals the MDF surface ready for painting and is really inexpensive. The paint then goes on smooth as glass especially when sprayed and doesn't soak into the MDF at all even the cheap none moisture resistant stuff.
This guy is gold. Thank you for video 🙏🏻
Loving the videos. Im a painter by trade and I recommend you try "Sheild" undercoat. It flairs up cut edges and timber grain. It may seem very rough at the start but after its fully hard and dry, it can be very easily sanded smooth almost like Glass. Much like a high build primer for automotive.
Thanks, I’ll take a look. 👍
Thanks for the top tip about corner protectors, Peter. I kept about 50 metres of them as I knew they’d come in useful....only having not thought of anything useful in the 4 months I’ve had them I threw them away (recycling, of course) last week. Only have 7 shaker doors to paint next week. Typical!! 🤣🙄. Noted for the future though.
Always the way Ian, always the way... 🤷♂️😂👍👍
Personally I use either a polyurethane or shellac based sanding sealer before paint. It seals the MDF beautifully without causing any rough surface, then the paint goes on smooth as glass especially when sprayed. Reduces sanding and provides a far superior finish, even on cheap MFD.
Paul I’m a bit confused. Is sanding sealer same thing as a primer or different? Is it white or transparent? What does the “sanding” part mean…that it needs to be sanded after? Why is this much better than the white primer in the video? What does this allow you to do that normal primer doesn’t?
Industry secret for you, use button polish. It’s much much cheaper than anything labbled MDF sealer. Shellac based. Dries incredibly fast. Nearly instantly. seals and takes less coats to get the same finish.
Nice to see brushes getting used!
Always! 👍
I Like your videos.
My top tip is line the paint try with tin foil saves having to clean it out.
Just screw it up and bin it when finished. I always buy an extra Turkey roll at Christmas for the big trays. 👍
Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks! Yes, fool’s a good trick - I use tray liners as you can swap them out more easily. 👍👍
I do that with roasting tins but never thought to do it with paint trays. Brilliant idea!
Love it. I'm literally watching paint dry.
Me too! 😂
This (and last week’s videos) couldn’t be better timed as I’m about to have a crack at building and painting my first mdf doors this weekend.
Thanks! Timing is everything, I’m told. 🤷♂️👍👍
Very informative Peter. I'd love to see you spray paint the same doors.
We have a Shaker community within an hour drive where I live. Not many of them left, most are quite elderly.
Love the sanding block setup!
Try drywall mud on edges for painted panels in MDF. Works like a charm. Old timer taught me.
👍
Thank you very much, very interesting for me…I am from Quebec, Canada.
Thanks you! Best wishes from London. 👍
I use a section of ply with 4 cut down pins to paint both sides of doors, and I find the mohair mini roll tubes are better than foam rollers
You can get wire loops that clip into the 35mm hinge holes, and make it easier to handle and hang the doors up to dry. Good for spraying too.
I can't remember where I saw them ( might be Rutlands) but the innovative amongst us could probably make some from wire coathangers.
Thanks, yes, I’ve seen some on RUclips, neat idea if you have a lot to do. 👍👍
This is very clear and informative thank you! I’m about to embark on a diy job on my mdf cabinet doors - they’re plain, with bevelled edge. I’ve peeled off the gloss plastic coating and the mdf underneath looks like it’s been sealed (slight sheen.. maybe that’s the adhesive?). No idea whether it’s MR MDF ☹️ So I think I’ll use the Zinsser shellac primer (brush/roller) so many people recommend. I’m using a water-based eggshell for top coats (Little Greene intelligent eggshell). My neighbour is going to help and says spraying will produce a better finish. Having seen you roll and brush your doors I’m wondering whether my neighbour is right..?? Spraying looks incredibly messy and I’m guessing uses more paint.
A couple of questions: should I fill handle holes with wood filler before priming? And what grade(s) sandpaper is best for sanding between coats?
Thank you 😊
Great , informative, to the point , iv been painting for 30 odd years always use Leyland primer undercoat 1hr redcoat time and I have never got it to cover like that in one coat , amazing , made me laugh out loud with the bit about keeping the door further on the work surface and not to ask how you know , looking forward to your next video
Thanks! 👍👍
Fantastic Peter. Really enjoyed that. Had thought of using that tape, won't bother now lol. Video was superbly put together, really nice. End music was a nice change. 👍👍👍👍
Thanks Barry! Yeah, playing around with a bit of Muzak - not always appropriate, but fun to skip some in now and then. 👍👍
My advice for painting mdf doors is to build a good relationship with a professional painter and pay them to do it!
Agree, but also look into good paint if doing it yourself.
Paint and primers with hardners make a huge difference to work with, drying time is also incredible. Pre catalysed stuff is dry to touch in 10 and you can sand in about 30min
Matthew Smith noooo we dont want any part of your mdf
@@acerjuglans383 do you have any experience with epoxy paint/primers undercoats like the one by Stone Coat Countertops company?
Professional painter are a joke when it comes to painting cabinet doors. Water based paints suck. Solvent based are MUCH better. Having a professionally refinisher is going to give you much better results
Your painter maybe a joke but ive built a relationship with a very skilled painter, she is one in a million! The material looks like a spray finish in the end!
I use 1 coat MDF primer (to stop MDf bleeding through) & 2-3 coats top coats finish of choice. Edge banded all round. Bigger doors need painting all in one go else they curl !
Yep I've got the fancy Graco gxff machine but sometimes just can't face the set up and clean down! You need a dedicated room or booth to make it worthwhile, which I don't have!
Yep! 👍
It’s sometimes difficult to find the voice of reason, but Peter is just that. Many YT videos proclaim that a water-based paint should not be used on MDF, but they’re almost always referring to the edges of MDF. In my case, I was about to embark on painting 40 or so brand new Shaker-style cabinet doors consisting of maple rails and stiles with MDF panels, so I wasn’t faced with painting the edges. Peter’s video gave me the confidence to use a water-based primer, and it has worked out beautifully. I double checked with my local paint supply store, Sherwin-Williams, and the most knowledgeable person there also recommended a water-based primer. Their top coat recommendation was their Emerald product, which is also amazing.
Thanks for your postings. You may want to consider putting your paint tray into a plastic carrier bag before filling. when your done, throw the bag away and no cleaning up to do. Also, if you make a couple of 35mm discs, cut them in half and fix to a small sprung 'scissors', you can use the hinge holes to hold the doors. You can use a wood or steel bar, or a length of string to hang them. You can the do all four edges each time.
With respect, that’s a terrible idea - the plastic bag sticks to the wet paint and lifts away from the tray every time you prime the roller. Tin foil is better as it tends to stay put, but best of all is a cheap tray liner that’s virtually unnoticeable - I’m using one here - but does the job with out any of the above disadvantages. Also means that you can keep the liner active with eg primer, and still move on to topcoat without tying up another tray. 👍👍
First let me say thank you for the great videos very helpful could you recommend a fast drying wood glue there are so many I'm lost
Pretty much any fast grab PVA will do the job. I’ve used all kinds over the years and have never found a scrap of difference between them. I tend to use PolyTen 10-minute PVA because I could buy it in 5-litre tubs, then decant into smaller bottles, but I’ll use anything, and I’d suggest using whatever you can get your hands in easily. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you very much for your reply much appreciated, keep up the excellent work
Very interested to see the lack of difference between edgebanded and non. I definitely find that a good quality MR MDF doesn’t need edgebanding.
Re drying times, do you stick to manufacturers guide or just repaint when dry to the touch? Something I’m never sure about!
Depends on the schedule! Where I can I leave it overnight, but I’ve found around ~4 hrs between redcoats is often enough. 👍👍
Great video as normal Peter, Couple of things to mention on painting MDF (and other materials) to others less skilled than you.
1. "Knock of the arris" as my dad always used to say. Paint can't and won't physically stick to a sharp corner. It is therefor important to sand all sharp edges. Only needs a tiny flick over when doing your de-nibbing but makes a massive difference.
2. Fat edges. Most common mistake by novice painters is leaving fat edges (excessive amounts of paint) on the adjacent face. You were clearly knocking your fat edges off with the roller but didn't mention this technique. It's a simple thing but often overlooked. Pain to remove once dry as when sanding them you end up going back to bare wood.
3. First coat layoff. When you put that first primer coat on always be mindful of not leaving big splodges anywhere, even if you will be going over that area again in 30 seconds. MDF sucks that first coat straight in and if it's to thick in areas it can be a pain to sand out later. You do have a little more 'work time' as the coats progress but just be mindful.
4. Water/shellac/oil. This is aimed more at high end finishes but the water based paints can cause other issues. Sometimes something a little more robust is needed, a shellac based primer is a good alternative. Quick drying but a little more hard wearing and seals the fibres a little better.
5. Last one again is difficult to control but drying area is important. Although the water based paints are quick drying there is nothing worse than taking your time building up layers of paint and sanding between all coats to have the final coat ruined by some dust or other debris blowing all over your wet paint. Try keep the airflow controlled and free from crap, clean your work area before painting and be mindful of other jobs whilst things are drying nearby.
We spray when we can but still do loads of hand painting where the sprayer isn t a viable option.
Good luck.
Hope that
Great info, thanks John! 👍
John - Thank you for the detailed explanations. They are very helpful. Appreciate you taking the time to write them. I read every word!
Great info thanks John - can ask about the corners again? I am going to get some mdf slab kitchen doors made, not shaker just plain. Should I ask the guy who cuts them to round all the edges slightly? Or just do it by hand? Thank you!
@@lizziebarker8399
Hi Lizzie,
No need to ask, its something you can do yourself. I presume you're getting plain MDF slab? Are you painting them yourself? 18mm? Best to get them all primed then when you sand just gently go over the edges with something like 120g or 150g just to knock the sharpness off.
@@JohnSmith-qv3db thanks John! I was thinking 22mm MDF and yes I’m going to start with a small kitchen island and see if I can paint it myself, then do the rest of the doors if I get a good enough result!
Thanks Peter - very useful tips.👍
Thanks Norman! 👍
Hi Peter, great video as always. Would the same method apply when painting the body of the wardrobes/cabinets?
Would you recommend a clear layer of perhaps a polyurethane coat on any surface that will have something resting on it? Clothes or ornaments etc? I've ended up with a slight tacky result when using a quickdrying satinwood. This time I've gone for a bathroom emulsion and hoping it'll be a better finish.
Cheers
Hi and thanks! Yes, absolutely - I've used this identical method with every cabinet carcass I've painted, wether they were wardrobes, chests of drawers, whatever. The only time I've ever had a slightly soft finish like you describe is with a farrow &n ball paint where their primer wasn't used; if you regularly get a finish like that then I'd look at sorting that out rather than applying a clear coat. 👍
The use of packing corners is a revelation Peter! :-) 'Why didn't I think of that'... I've got a whole stack of them destined for the bin... not anymore! `Great video as always!
Cheers Jason! Yes, only occurred to me recently when I saw the stack of offcuts that I’d (luckily) kept! 😆👍👍
Very nice video.
My 2 cents: the difference between edgebanding and manual painting is visible - check 16:24. I am quite sure the edgebanding is on the panel on top.
You’re right - the edgebanding is on the top door - just not on the edges you can see. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Wow! I really thought the visible side of top door was edgebanding :))))
Later edit: and now I'm confused - I thought the 16:24 shot was to show edgebanding and edgepainting side by side...
Excellent content and very relaxing
Great videos as always
Hi Peter - I use the exact same rollers. I have found that, once rolled, very lightly going over with a dry roller reduces the orange peel significantly. Thanks for the videos... and thanks to you I've been forced into buying a Domino... can't wait for it to arrive! Please do a Domino video!
Thanks David! And yes, there’s a ‘Domino Workshop’ series planned. 👍👍
Precisely using two rollers as one can be slightly dryer as it's not to heavy loaded with paint won't leave orange peel and leave it factory Finnish flat, personally I like to use synthetic mohair rollers, obviously washing out any loose fibres and even doublely making sure any loose fibers are run out by using them on scrap wood/walls ,you then have a broken in ready to fine Finnish as essentially the nap fibre roller sleeve whips the paint flat. Fast backrolling also uses less paint if you happen to be short of paint and time ,on a new build full panel door should take no more than 15 minutes either side ,I like your attention to detail and we can and some times take too long to .... unless on a price to keep that momentum up so every stroke matters
My uncle's name was Peter Millard and my Mom's maiden name was Millard. Good content, thank you!
Spooky! Thanks!
I can’t believe you painted over all that beautiful wood!😂. Great video thanks.
It wasn't wood. I thought Peter made it clear, he was painting MDF - there are very good practical reasons for doing so.
(I'm assuming you weren't joking).
😂👍👍
Pretty sure the 😂 made it a joke. 👌👍
Ha ha yes definitely a joke!
Shouldn't joke about something so serious.
Hi Peter What do you do with large doors (like 160x60cm)? Your technique is perfect for small doors but when it's big and heavy it's really hard to succeed in painting all 6 sides in a small workshop... best regards
Yo have to do the the old way - one side and edges at a time, unless you have space to hang them. 👍
My own favourite painting tip is MAKE SURE YOU HAVE EXCELLENT LIGHTING. If you see a missed bit, you can't fix it.
Great tips, great presentation - thank you Peter.
👍👍
Thank you for sharing this video. Great job
Brilliant video thank-you so much
Hi Peter, returning to this video again as we redo our kitchen!
For painting inside of melamine and mrmdf units, do you recommend using any type of clear coat or varnish etc. to protect shelving etc. from wear and tear over time?
I always found the paint to be just fine; the only time I’ve added a clear coat was when a customer wanted a specific colour of emulsion paint she already had, so aI used that and added a satin lacquer over it, and it worked well. But if you can use eggshell or satin finish paint then that should be enough. 👍
@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks for the reply, Peter! Love the videos and very helpful, as always!
Looking to actually setup a workshop like this
Peter ,great stuff .Just found your channel ,very inspiring .Greetings from Ireland .
Thanks Adrian, and welcome! Best wishes from London!!👍
peter, i know the shop is small ,however, does it have en suite facilities? you do so much more with so much less that it is a treat to watch your videos thanx rick
No, no water or waste unfortunately. Communal facilities in the main building. 👍
Great stuff
Try a LVLP spray gun I use mine with a 8 gallon 1 1/2 hp compressor. I have an Graco airless and a HVLP but the LVLP is the best by a long long long way. Over spray is almost nonexistent, it sprays at a reasonable rate, clean up is the easiest by far and it is inexpensive.
I like the spray finish but it does make touching up on site if something 'happens' during the install more difficult than roller!
I'll be revisiting this video and the "2 Doors" video when I've finished building my garage and start to outfit it with some cabinets. Your videos have inspired me to build my cabinets rather than buy, so a TS55 is on my shopping list (using a bit of man maths it pays for iteself!) and hopefully lead to enjoying doing some small projects. My garage will be mainly for storing and working on my cars and motorbikes, so the old school reg plate on your wall peeked my interest, is there a story behind it?
Thanks! And great to hear my videos have helped! The ref plate is from my first car - an Austin A40. Pile of junk - but it was *my* pile of junk! 😂 bit.ly/Austin_A40 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Its funny how however crap they are, our first cars always have a special place in our hearts. My Micra was terrible in every measurable metric, but I loved every mile I put on it, it was my FREEDOM!
Another excellent video, many thanks!
Thanks! 👍
Thanks for this, Peter. I have some doors to paint and I'll use your tips.
Cheers Mark! 👍
Great video! Need advice on choosing the paint. What sort of paint is best to use when durability is required? I made a shaker style MDF doors for bathroom cabinet, but the paint (dark grey colour) is not resistant to touching, finger nail scratches. I will be re-priming and repainting the doors. Would clear coat be an option in this scenario?
Yes, I've used a clear coat over paint in this situation before, and it worked well. 👍
Use OTEX oil based primer on cut edge of MDF . 2 coats with a find sand
Dear Peter, would you have any tips for painting MDF door for a bathroom cabinet? Especially which paint to use and how to give extra protection to the edges?
As mentioned in the video, use decent quality branded MRMDF, a couple of coats of primer/undercoat on the edges and you’re good to go. You don’t need to do anything special with it. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop That simple? Awesome :) I thought it needed at least some extra water-resistant paint or finish etc. Thanks a lot!
Old video but I am working through your back catalogue. You replied to my comment on all the good tracksaws getting sold out when you say they are half decent. :)
Now another question about paints, no issues getting the acrylic undercoat/primer but can you use any paint over the top? Looking to paint a light grey and notice Screwfix sell Leyland Eggshell Dark Grey emulsion (Multi-Surface). Can I use that over the Acrylic Undercoat? Can I mix that with the Acrylic Eggshell to give a lighter shade? Many Thanks.
Thanks. I’ve never done it - I’ve always kept the topcoat of the same type as primer/undercoat, but I’m not a painter/decorator so I couldn’t say if it’s a good idea or not tbh. You could ask the tech guys at the paint company - they all have helplines / customer service. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks, popped an email to the company a few days back and the reply was a bit vague, they seemed to suggest it would be fine. A follow up email pointing out my concern on the drying times being different and the response changed to no don't do that. May get a couple of small tins and have a play to see if they will mix or coat without issues. I have an exact colour in mind, so maybe it would be worthwhile getting a larger batched pre mixed? Or maybe be less fussy? :)
Hi - useful video thanks - would you still coat the inside of cupboards 3-4 times?
Maybe one coat less on the internals, depending on location eg if it’s a kitchen then they’ll get the same as the doors. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you - theyre wardrobes
Ótimo canal, e as dicas são inspiradoras.
Muito obrigado! Muitas felicidades de Londres!
Hi Peter, thank you for your informative videos. Could I please pick your brains, and Apologies for my ignorance! I rarely work with MDF but I’m about to make a wardrobe for my granddaughter, I understand that MR MDF needs to be sealed prior to a top coat (probably use Zinzer) and I was wondering if I could seal the MDF parts prior to assembly using dominoes, it would just make life easier using a roller and brush, just wondered if the glue would adhere to the sealer/undercoat.
Appreciate any advice Peter
95% of everything I’ve ever made was from MRMDF and I’ve never once used a sealer. For non MR then maybe, if you’re not sure of the provenance, but any decent branded MRMDF just needs a primer undercoat then the topcoats of your choice. I go through the process most recently in the Painting MDF Doors video. 👍
Many thanks Peter. This will be my first wardrobe build in MDF and you videos have been invaluable, thank you.@@10MinuteWorkshop
Thanks for the info ☺️
Great vid as usual peter.! - just a bit surprised that you haven’t came up with an ingenious quick clamp / spreader based semi circular jawed hinge pocket door hanging device and rack to make handling those wet doors a little easier… P.S. if you come up with one and make a fortune remember my intellectual royalties…😳😄💪🏻
Deal! 😂 And thanks Ian! 🙌👍
Hello Peter: Any advice on what you would use on the painted surface for protection? Poly, wax or s/thing else? Or do you just leave the paint as-is?
The paint is usually all the protection it needs. 👍👍
Hi peter , have you not tried rustins m d f primer for your sealer coat ? It’s very quick drying
Hi Terry and thanks. Yes I have, and honestly found it was just another ‘magic potion’ to have to stock. If it works for you then that’s great, but it didn’t do anything for me I’m afraid. 🤷♂️👍👍
I use the Leyland acrylic primer. Good value. The Rustin's is also good, I think all the Rustin's paints are great. Their primer/undercoat is higher build than the Leyland. Which is handy if you need that..
I'm actually surprised by how much knowledge is involved in a "simple" door painting 🤔
👍👍
Thank you for a superb video as always.
I've recently followed your tips and (using the Leyland Acrylic Primer) managed to paint some MDF sections in a new kitchen, that were used to box in the top of the units.
The sanding between coats is certainly an essential step.
Fantastic, good to hear Neil, thanks! 👍
Hi Peter, love your videos thank you for sharing! I always struggle a lot cleaning up the brushes and the stuff related to painting, I did see you kept the painting tray with a plastic bag and that is a tip I picked up already but it’d be great to know (hint for a video :-) if you just throw away the roller or clean it, same with the tray and any brushes. In my case I always try to clean and reuse but cleaning is such a chore that most of the time I end up not painting because I hate to clean and I am sure I am doing something wrong so it’d be great to learn. Keep up the great content!
Hi, and thanks! I don't do anything like as much painting as I used to, but I basically kept the brushes and rollers 'active' for the duration of the painting session by keeping them wrapped up/covered ie in the tray and under the same bag, or in clingfilm , and then I'd clean the brushes at the end of the session, and usually throw the rollers away. The reason for chucking the rollers is two-fold; firstly, at the end of a painting session they're often not in great shape anyway, and secondly I don't really want to wash that much paint down the drain. That's worked for me, anyway! HTH, P.