Thanks Peter. As a total novice woodworker with very basic tools I have built two build in wardrobes and display case thanks to your videos! Which I am very proud of.
I find it good to mark the bottom edge of the doors with some sort of number, as well as inside the pocket for the hinges (after applying finish). This helps the owner keep them in order should they need to remove them for some reason.
I have to admit I'd never thought about this issue to this degree of detail, obviously with "off the shelf" bought cabinets all the doors are standard sizes and you just average out the gaps the best you can ! I applaud your attention to detail though Peter, the results can clearly be seen in the quality of your work, I wouldn't want to be fitting your kitchen ! 😉
As a cabinet maker/ finish carpenter in the states you’re the only guy I watch in any place that know what he is talking about ! I finally found mediate about 45 miles from me and super expensive! As you know ( like just happened to me the customer increased the size of all the lowers after I cut them ) ppl change their minds ! Hear that stuff ( Mediate ) cost as much as pre finished cabinet ply! Maybe it has not been pushed enough by the company here! My supplier looked at me like my dog does when I say “ get the ball”?
Hi Peter We always made 2mm total reveal or gap, 1mm each side of each piece of fronts (doors or drawers). We never let a terminal box whitout terminal panel (because the slit or space between door and side). At the left of the composition we also put a terminal panel, it could be a narrow panel and the result is always a look like Inset fronts, and if you have drawers near the wall they never touch the wall while running. saludos Gerardo
Hey Pete ! Have you tried the method I use where you cut everything perfectly - then alternate between adjusting and trimming until the door is useless but you see exactly where you need to be with the new one, I feel it gives me a greater appreciation of the mechanic’s involved and also . The cost of MDF.!!!!😳
Love the attention to detail, you don't get that with off the shelf cabinets! I also like that by educating us you get to expense the build of your kitchen 😉
Great video, and I hope this doesn't sound stupid, but do you make the doors first, then trim them to fit....or just adjust the door measurements to fit?
Love the presentation. Makes a point that the reductions need to be made with Hinges set! Giving then maximum hinge movement after fitting. Thank you for this one! I am in the process of making doors for original imperial cabinets, wall to one side. All this fitting relevant.
Thanks to guidance from your videos I've just completed a built-in wardrobe and linen closet all with inset doors to match the 70 year old originals. All face-framing was cut to nearest 0.5mm for installation of off-the-shelf doors and all gaps are a uniform 2-2.5mm. Thanks to this video, I'll go inset on a kitchen rebuild too as it's in a 100 year old house and inset has a classic look. Getting uniform gaps on 700mm high doors should be a doddle compared to 2040mm high doors!
Man, now I see why I rushed to Portland to buy a TS55, a MFT3 and the CT 15 Hepa a year ago. You (single handedly) make these three tools a must have. I am so glad I just went for it and now they reside just outside my garage door beckoning me 24/7. The 55 sys snaps to the top of extractor and I roll them both into almost every pic I take in the shop. Great job Peter. //ji John in Oregon
Ufdah, all that tan color with the green inlay on the doors brought back memories of antiquing kits and your grey green kitchen appliances from 1968. I've kept the little bed stand thing I made in shop class and a drum table in the same green base coat, wiped on brown top coat antiquing as it was the rage in '68 - but never again! LOL Sheesh, what were we thinking?!
Must have been in my head on this one. I was actually calculating this for a project and now I'll just use your method. Seems pretty straightforward. Thanks!
Thanks Peter - At last a clear explanation on door sizes and gaps. I would have thought to use a mix of half overlay and full overlay hinges but full overlay seems the way to go.
oh goodness. what a nicely explained video. great work Peter. not many youtubers out there are teaching these sort of details. Thanks for and keep up the great work.
Really good guide Peter. I recently priced kitchen cabinets up on line. There doors were 3mm under the width of the carcasses to allow all situations I guess. The recess doors I always found harder as nothing is square. Made some 2.3m doors for a bathroom in a 140 year old house in a cupboard made by a builder. It was only 12 mm out of plumb on one side and 8mm the opposite way on the other….. 🙈
in the U.S. hi end custom cabs gaps are 3/32 which is a little less than 2.5mm. we do a lot of thick door applications where any gap smaller than that risks binding. we typically do story poles for the run and only cut the doors once from that. we try to accomodate the trimming of the doors in the rail and stile sizes as well by milling the components and building the doors oversized by 3/16. those look like some heavy cabinets lol.
Before installing the hinges, I do calculations to find the most optimal position of the hinge cap and plate (in case of inlay doors or special 180° hinges). The formulas and tables are in catalogue. Also, I use special jig for drilling the cap hole and a self designed template which helps me precisely find the location of hinge plate holes without single measurement. I designed the template myself in Fusion 360 and then 3d printed it. Also I tend to use euroscrews instead of countersink screws, and I prefer the plates with quick adjustment screw. Blum has all the options in my country.
Very information video. Thank you. Am I correct in the understanding that the removal of 2mm of material from the hinge side of the door results in that tab or set back of the hinge cup decreasing by 2mm? For example on a full overlay hinge with a 5mm tab (distance from edge of the door to the outside diameter of the hinge cup) the only way to create that 2mm reveal is to decrease that tab to 3mm? I hope this makes sense. Thank you so much for the outstanding content.
Peter, I just noticed that your splinter guard on the track saw track is extra thick and silver or translucent (@2:45); it seems to have a nice well-defined edge. Do you have something special? I don't always trust the thin black rubber edge on mine when making precise cuts as the heat and humidity can make the adhesive loosen and cause the strip to move ever-so-slightly. I have a Milwaukee track saw and not the Festool so maybe that's just how the Festool tracks are. If so I may look into using that same splinter guard on my Milwaukee. I love the saw except for that part. Thanks!
It’s the standard Festool splinterguard - they changed away from the rubber strip years ago; I actually prefer the rubber visually, but the translucent plastic is very hard wearing. 👍
My last two festool rails came with the plastic splinter strips. Unfortunately they suffer from the glue softening too. I have to store them with spring clamps on each end, otherwise the last six inches of them unwind and fall off. Just bought Makita rubber strips to replace them.
Yes, I get on better with my dark Bosch strip over the clear Festool one of my pals. I struggle to see it in poor light on site sometimes... but then I am getting old lol! @@10MinuteWorkshop
This is excellent. I'm just wondering whether material choice makes a difference here. If instead of MDF I were to use oak to make my doors, should the gaps be slightly larger taking into account potential expansion of the material?
Another great, informative video Peter. I was going to ask if you need to leave additional tolerance for painting, but you've addressed that in the comments already. Thanks!
This is great great info! how do you account for the paint thickness added to the doors? If i'd spray on my primer and 2 coats of paint i might have added 1mm or more of thickness. Do you take that into account when you cut as well?
4:55 - "I've transferred those marks to the carcass" - would love to get a little bit more details on how to find the proper positions for the carcass holes :)
Hi Peter, Good tips and advice on fitting cabinet doors, I know you use spacers I was told years ago and I still do it to now to use 2p coins for spacers. As always a great video, Take care
The perfect gauge for the clearance of any door or drawer is something many of us might have in our pockets (unless 'they' get their way and make us a cashless society!) The rim of a 2 pence piece is perfect for that purpose....I've been using this measure for over 30 years.
Wow. Best ever real install and adjust, complete explanation. Very visual, easy to see and understand, and honest references to experience. Those 4 metres of cabinets, how much thought and measuring to get it perfect or did you somehow template or dummy up a model because of those inset handles? Anyway, thanks!
Thanks! On the run of wardrobes, it took a while to plan it out, it it wasn’t too bad - the upper 6 doors were the same width as the lower ones, just shorter! 👍
I have a question. When you trim, you set your track on shims? Why? I know your MDF doesn't tear out much, but I thought the track should be in intimate contact with what you are cutting to minimize tearout? Thanks
The raised panel extends beyond the face of the rails and stiles but 3mm, so for the face cuts I used shims to get the track level; not needed when the back of the door is uppermost, obviously. 👍
Nice work, as usual - thanks. I always assumed that if you shave 1mm off one side of a door, you would automatically shave the same amount off the other side - to keep the door internally symmetrical. However, it looks like those small differences don't matter, and that your trimming should aim to produce a correctly fitting SET of doors. Is that how you approach it ??
As an architect /woodworker I struggle sometime with cabinetry. I know what I want to do, and what should be done but getting that into the contractors mind is another thing
I've only stumbled across your channel in the last few days Peter. All I can say is I wish I'd found it sooner. I built myself a whole stack of cabinets for my home workshop a few years ago and this video would have made life so much easier over the few weeks it took me to do my drawer fronts and cabinet doors. I do have a question around working out calculations for corner style doors, with two panels at right angles that have a piano style hinge. Any times for calculating the length of the panels correctly? Many thanks, Clinton
Thanks! For the corner cabinet just make sure you leave a gap between the edge of the door and the carcass, and the other door that butts against it. Other than that the gaps sizes work out the same as they do here. 👍
Great stuff Peter, thank you. I'm sure you've explained before - but could you remind why you shim the track on the door (and also why only most of the time and not all of the time)?
Thanks! The raised panels are actually 3mm proud of the front faces of the rails and stiles - hence the 3mm shims when I’m cutting from the front, but not required when cutting from the back face. 👍
Thank you Peter, this video is very well done! I’m wondering why you used the thin packers under your guide rail each time you trimmed a mm or two off a door? Also where do you buy these assorted thickness packers?
Thanks! The raised panel stands proud of the rails and stiles by 3mm, hence the packers. Packers are in my ‘everyday workshop essentials’ list at 10minuteAmazon.com. 👍
well presented... question, in the shots in the finished room, does "England" call those shutters PLANTATION BLINDS or do you have an English term for them....
Great video Peter. The track saw does a great job in most of your projects. How often do you change or sharpen the blade. Any guidance would be helpful. Thanks.
i see that you use MRMDF for your doors . That is very rare and expensive here in the U.S. We use Poplar for our door frames and mdf for the panels . I do not use tenons but inset the panel from the back with a half inch wide rabbet . With modern polyurethane glues the glue is stronger than the wood anyway. No i do not glue my panels because of high humidity in the summer and low in the winter because of forced air heating.
Benefit of all MRMDF construction is that humidity, material movement etc.. is a non-issue, but I appreciate it can be hard to source in some places. 👍👍
Hello, might be a silly question but why 4 hinges at 11:44? 2-3 wont hold the weight? or is it because 4 hinges would share significantly less weight which will reduce wear and tear on hinges and screws?
I absolutely enjoy your video ! Have you been approached to teach ? Your methods are well suited for young cabinet maker and carpenter alike . You would be an important addition to any school board .
If you trim down your shaker doors down to get the right door gaps would you be making your rails and styles an uneven widths ? With only being a few mm here and there is it not noticable to the eye ? Or would you normally account for the door gaps when making the shaker doors initially so you keep the rails and styles all a uniform width ?
that is a great video but you glossed over the bit i always struggle with. that is where do you place your hinges. is there a standard position from the sides of a door and the front of a cabinet that the hinges need to be mounted. I too have used Blum hinges (mainly on uyour recomendation and what I fitted in my kitchen) sorry if this is covered in the fact sheet you mention.
I’ve always put them at the same height as the width of the rails, so 80mm as a general starting point. If you’re all-in on the 32mm system then the heights are pre-ordained, but for custom work ~80mm centres works well for most common door sizes. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks for that but it was more the measurement from the side of the door and carcase to the hinge. I looked through the Blum catalog and it doesn't mentionwhy you would put the cup say 4mm in Vs 3mm in from the edge of the door and what is the corresponding measurement for the + shaped piece you clip the hinge into on the inside of the cabinet.
Hi Peter, great video. A question about the moisture resistant MDF -- when you are ready to finish, do you still need to treat or seal the green parts before priming and painting, or are the green parts literally the same as the surface of the mdf as far as finishing goes? Thankks
Peter, muy buena tarde, muchas gracias por compartir, solo una cuestión; ya sea que uses bisagras rectas(panel por fuera), o bisagras curvas(panel por dentro del vano del mueble, pienso que se deben considerar y planear todos los gruesos, holguras al rededos de cada panel, incluso si usas melamina y debes poner cubrecantos, eso altera las medidas, no exageradamente, pero lo hace...😉, me sirvio de mucho tu video, como opciones a "solucionar" una situación dada, en puertas por fuera y por dentro, nuevamente gracias, un abrazo enorme desde Aguascalientes México...👍 PS. podrias mostrar en setalle esa bisagras que solo acomodas la puerta y hace 'clic' y ya quedó...???por favor 🇲🇽
Max size of overlay is determined by the hinges - the spec for them will state that. And there’s a whole video on the topic of concealed hinges and an entire playlist about hinges, links in the description. 👍
I see that you trimmed 1mm on a door near the wall, does that mean that I need to drill hole for hinge 1mm different If I order melamine on dimension that I need, I mean I'm DIY home amateur, so I order everything finished? I hope you will understand my question.
Do you not find that once they’ve all had 4 or 5 coats of paint (making a thickness of 8-10 coats for adjacent components) there’s a risk of binding? The door you showed butted against the end panel had zero clearance even before there was any finish on either 🤔 Is it something you allow for and, if so, how much? Thanks
great video very interestin, where do i buy that mdf i looked at the two links and although theres loads of info about the product i carnt find anything about any suppliers. Thanks
Hi Peter, you have been a naughty boy! All the sides of the doors were cut and although most of the dust went towards the wall of your bench you did not wear a mask to protect yourself. All jokes apart I do enjoy your videos greatly and would not want you to get unwell.
I'm surprised you had enough room to cut off 2mm from the hinge side of the door considering blum hinges sit so close to the edge. Was this pre planned maybe? Just curious. Thanks!
Que the kitchen fitters of the world for their tuppence worth (that will include me). I'd just deduct 4-5mm in total off the height and width. If the unit you made is 600mm x 720mm then the door is 595 x 715 or 596 x 716, that seems to be the standard sizing. I have come across doors a bit wider but that can be too tight for good adjustment and possible binding. I agreed that it's so important to make sure the units are straight, level and true. Any twist or tapered gaps at appliances makes it impossible to correct.
Copy/paste from the video description; “So the ‘industry standard’ used in kitchen fits and the like are that doors should be the carcass height minus 5mm, and the carcass width, minus 4 mm, and that works well for most people in the business. But as bespoke makers I don’t think it’s unreasonable to aim for something with slightly higher tolerances, and this is how I do mine. Enjoy!” Yeah, that. 👍
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Thanks Peter. As a total novice woodworker with very basic tools I have built two build in wardrobes and display case thanks to your videos! Which I am very proud of.
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!👍👍
That final recap with measurements on the tape was extremely helpful
I find it good to mark the bottom edge of the doors with some sort of number, as well as inside the pocket for the hinges (after applying finish). This helps the owner keep them in order should they need to remove them for some reason.
I have to admit I'd never thought about this issue to this degree of detail, obviously with "off the shelf" bought cabinets all the doors are standard sizes and you just average out the gaps the best you can ! I applaud your attention to detail though Peter, the results can clearly be seen in the quality of your work, I wouldn't want to be fitting your kitchen ! 😉
Peter, I think it's time you wrote a book and put everything so far in the pages 😂
You might be right! 😂👍
I’d buy that book!
@@lesbentley4082 I’d also buy that book
I googled for Peter Millard's book, and was disappointed that it wasn't there! Go for it!
That's a great idea. I'd buy
Certainly makes me appreciate that b-roll footage of your white built-in cabinets more 🤯
As a cabinet maker/ finish carpenter in the states you’re the only guy I watch in any place that know what he is talking about ! I finally found mediate about 45 miles from me and super expensive! As you know ( like just happened to me the customer increased the size of all the lowers after I cut them ) ppl change their minds ! Hear that stuff ( Mediate ) cost as much as pre finished cabinet ply!
Maybe it has not been pushed enough by the company here! My supplier looked at me like my dog does when I say “ get the ball”?
I’m good cabinet maker it’s hard for me to admit Peter is the best one I saw in my life respect for all you do
Thank you, that’s very kind of you to say. 🙌👍
I’m impressed with the quality of your teaching and videos. Thank you for sharing
Hi Peter
We always made 2mm total reveal or gap, 1mm each side of each piece of fronts (doors or drawers).
We never let a terminal box whitout terminal panel (because the slit or space between door and side).
At the left of the composition we also put a terminal panel, it could be a narrow panel and the result is always a look like Inset fronts, and if you have drawers near the wall they never touch the wall while running.
saludos
Gerardo
Hey Pete ! Have you tried the method I use where you cut everything perfectly - then alternate between adjusting and trimming until the door is useless but you see exactly where you need to be with the new one, I feel it gives me a greater appreciation of the mechanic’s involved and also . The cost of MDF.!!!!😳
Love the attention to detail, you don't get that with off the shelf cabinets! I also like that by educating us you get to expense the build of your kitchen 😉
One of the best 13 minuets of re-learning of my life. Thank you Peter.✅
Thanks David! 😂
Great video, and I hope this doesn't sound stupid, but do you make the doors first, then trim them to fit....or just adjust the door measurements to fit?
Love the presentation. Makes a point that the reductions need to be made with Hinges set! Giving then maximum hinge movement after fitting.
Thank you for this one! I am in the process of making doors for original imperial cabinets, wall to one side. All this fitting relevant.
Clear and concise tutorial that covers the majority of fitting situations. Excellent video 👍
Thanks! 👍
I will be doing my doors 2 days from now and I cant thank you enough with this video.
the summary using tape was great! Thank you!
Thanks to guidance from your videos I've just completed a built-in wardrobe and linen closet all with inset doors to match the 70 year old originals. All face-framing was cut to nearest 0.5mm for installation of off-the-shelf doors and all gaps are a uniform 2-2.5mm. Thanks to this video, I'll go inset on a kitchen rebuild too as it's in a 100 year old house and inset has a classic look. Getting uniform gaps on 700mm high doors should be a doddle compared to 2040mm high doors!
Man, now I see why I rushed to Portland to buy a TS55, a MFT3 and the CT 15 Hepa a year ago.
You (single handedly) make these three tools a must have.
I am so glad I just went for it and now they reside just outside my garage door beckoning me 24/7.
The 55 sys snaps to the top of extractor and I roll them both into almost every pic I take in the shop.
Great job Peter. //ji John in Oregon
Thanks! 👍
Ufdah, all that tan color with the green inlay on the doors brought back memories of antiquing kits and your grey green kitchen appliances from 1968. I've kept the little bed stand thing I made in shop class and a drum table in the same green base coat, wiped on brown top coat antiquing as it was the rage in '68 - but never again! LOL Sheesh, what were we thinking?!
Must have been in my head on this one. I was actually calculating this for a project and now I'll just use your method. Seems pretty straightforward. Thanks!
Thanks Peter - At last a clear explanation on door sizes and gaps. I would have thought to use a mix of half overlay and full overlay hinges but full overlay seems the way to go.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks! 👍
oh goodness. what a nicely explained video. great work Peter. not many youtubers out there are teaching these sort of details. Thanks for and keep up the great work.
Thank you! 👍
Thank you, Peter. Very clear the way you explain the logic
Thanks for this Peter, nice and concise, now I just need to keep remembering that I've got 1mm edging to factor in too when cutting the doors to size
Really good guide Peter. I recently priced kitchen cabinets up on line. There doors were 3mm under the width of the carcasses to allow all situations I guess.
The recess doors I always found harder as nothing is square. Made some 2.3m doors for a bathroom in a 140 year old house in a cupboard made by a builder. It was only 12 mm out of plumb on one side and 8mm the opposite way on the other….. 🙈
Nightmare working on old properties- I don’t miss it at all! And thanks! 👍
in the U.S. hi end custom cabs gaps are 3/32 which is a little less than 2.5mm. we do a lot of thick door applications where any gap smaller than that risks binding. we typically do story poles for the run and only cut the doors once from that. we try to accomodate the trimming of the doors in the rail and stile sizes as well by milling the components and building the doors oversized by 3/16. those look like some heavy cabinets lol.
Incredibly informative, i have no idea how Google/RUclips knew i needed to see this but I'm glad for it 😂
+1 subscription
Welcome! 👍
Buddy your work is flawless
I've always worked to 2.5mm, its foolproof for me, no horrible binding surprises - some hinges can be fussy.
Before installing the hinges, I do calculations to find the most optimal position of the hinge cap and plate (in case of inlay doors or special 180° hinges). The formulas and tables are in catalogue. Also, I use special jig for drilling the cap hole and a self designed template which helps me precisely find the location of hinge plate holes without single measurement. I designed the template myself in Fusion 360 and then 3d printed it. Also I tend to use euroscrews instead of countersink screws, and I prefer the plates with quick adjustment screw. Blum has all the options in my country.
Maybe the most informative video i have seen for a long time.
Thanks.
Thank you! 👍
You have a profile of a great professor, Sir.
Thank you! 👍
Thanks a bunch for the lesson, Peter! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too! 👍👍
Very information video. Thank you. Am I correct in the understanding that the removal of 2mm of material from the hinge side of the door results in that tab or set back of the hinge cup decreasing by 2mm? For example on a full overlay hinge with a 5mm tab (distance from edge of the door to the outside diameter of the hinge cup) the only way to create that 2mm reveal is to decrease that tab to 3mm? I hope this makes sense. Thank you so much for the outstanding content.
Peter, I just noticed that your splinter guard on the track saw track is extra thick and silver or translucent (@2:45); it seems to have a nice well-defined edge. Do you have something special? I don't always trust the thin black rubber edge on mine when making precise cuts as the heat and humidity can make the adhesive loosen and cause the strip to move ever-so-slightly. I have a Milwaukee track saw and not the Festool so maybe that's just how the Festool tracks are. If so I may look into using that same splinter guard on my Milwaukee. I love the saw except for that part. Thanks!
It’s the standard Festool splinterguard - they changed away from the rubber strip years ago; I actually prefer the rubber visually, but the translucent plastic is very hard wearing. 👍
My last two festool rails came with the plastic splinter strips. Unfortunately they suffer from the glue softening too. I have to store them with spring clamps on each end, otherwise the last six inches of them unwind and fall off. Just bought Makita rubber strips to replace them.
Yes, I get on better with my dark Bosch strip over the clear Festool one of my pals. I struggle to see it in poor light on site sometimes... but then I am getting old lol! @@10MinuteWorkshop
This is excellent. I'm just wondering whether material choice makes a difference here. If instead of MDF I were to use oak to make my doors, should the gaps be slightly larger taking into account potential expansion of the material?
Excellent timing Peter; I’m about to do exactly this type of project in the coming weeks. 👍🏻
Another great, informative video Peter. I was going to ask if you need to leave additional tolerance for painting, but you've addressed that in the comments already. Thanks!
This was the most helpful video I’ve seen on fitting cabinet doors!!
Where would one find those shims you were using?
Thanks! And Amazon - there’s a link in my ‘everyday workshop essentials’ list at 10minuteamazon.com! 👍
Very well explained and illustrated. Great video that will no doubt help alleviate beginners frustrations. 👏👏
Thanks! 👍
This is great great info!
how do you account for the paint thickness added to the doors?
If i'd spray on my primer and 2 coats of paint i might have added 1mm or more of thickness.
Do you take that into account when you cut as well?
What an amazing explanation! Thank you, Peter!
Thanks! 👍
Great stuff Peter. I'd love to take a go at my kitchen some day! Bit daunting yet, but these help.
4:55 - "I've transferred those marks to the carcass" - would love to get a little bit more details on how to find the proper positions for the carcass holes :)
Every hinge brand and type has it's own formula to calculate hinge cup drilling distance, depending on door thickness and desired gaps.
Hi Peter, Good tips and advice on fitting cabinet doors, I know you use spacers I was told years ago and I still do it to now to use 2p coins for spacers. As always a great video,
Take care
Thanks! Wow, brown money! I’ve read about that… 😯😂👍
Yet another excellent, concise and useful presentation. You take the biscuit! ✨
Thanks! 👍
PETER, this has been very helpful thank you
Also gaps depend on the hinge type and door thickness, or door edge ariss, I always do a test piece first to confirm the gap
Which is why I specify the hinges I’m using. 🤷♂️
The perfect gauge for the clearance of any door or drawer is something many of us might have in our pockets (unless 'they' get their way and make us a cashless society!)
The rim of a 2 pence piece is perfect for that purpose....I've been using this measure for over 30 years.
Brown money! I’ve read about that… 😮😂👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I don't class it as money since you can't buy anything with it ....Even a 'penny chew' costs more than that 😂
Excellent tips. Thanks a lot for the clear presentation.
Wow. Best ever real install and adjust, complete explanation. Very visual, easy to see and understand, and honest references to experience. Those 4 metres of cabinets, how much thought and measuring to get it perfect or did you somehow template or dummy up a model because of those inset handles? Anyway, thanks!
Thanks! On the run of wardrobes, it took a while to plan it out, it it wasn’t too bad - the upper 6 doors were the same width as the lower ones, just shorter! 👍
I have a question. When you trim, you set your track on shims? Why? I know your MDF doesn't tear out much, but I thought the track should be in intimate contact with what you are cutting to minimize tearout? Thanks
The raised panel extends beyond the face of the rails and stiles but 3mm, so for the face cuts I used shims to get the track level; not needed when the back of the door is uppermost, obviously. 👍
Nice work, as usual - thanks. I always assumed that if you shave 1mm off one side of a door, you would automatically shave the same amount off the other side - to keep the door internally symmetrical. However, it looks like those small differences don't matter, and that your trimming should aim to produce a correctly fitting SET of doors. Is that how you approach it ??
Once again we'll done! really appreciate training that I can apply!
Thanks! 👍🙌
As an architect /woodworker I struggle sometime with cabinetry. I know what I want to do, and what should be done but getting that into the contractors mind is another thing
Always! 😂👍
Hi Peter, another great video! Does the gaps you mentioned account for the additional thickness that the paint will add to it?
Yes, absolutely - paint should only add a fraction of a mm, even if you're using a roller. 👍
I hate wood and wood hates me back. You do amazing work
Same. Stick to MDF and all will be well. 👍
This has been so useful. Thank you !!!
I've only stumbled across your channel in the last few days Peter.
All I can say is I wish I'd found it sooner. I built myself a whole stack of cabinets for my home workshop a few years ago and this video would have made life so much easier over the few weeks it took me to do my drawer fronts and cabinet doors.
I do have a question around working out calculations for corner style doors, with two panels at right angles that have a piano style hinge. Any times for calculating the length of the panels correctly?
Many thanks, Clinton
Thanks! For the corner cabinet just make sure you leave a gap between the edge of the door and the carcass, and the other door that butts against it. Other than that the gaps sizes work out the same as they do here. 👍
Thanks, Peter really enjoyed that. Great content, just handy things to know.
Cheers Carl! 👍
Hi Peter thank for sharing a very interesting video.
Great stuff Peter, thank you. I'm sure you've explained before - but could you remind why you shim the track on the door (and also why only most of the time and not all of the time)?
Thanks! The raised panels are actually 3mm proud of the front faces of the rails and stiles - hence the 3mm shims when I’m cutting from the front, but not required when cutting from the back face. 👍
Thanks for asking, I was a wonderin' about that too!
Thank you Peter, this video is very well done! I’m wondering why you used the thin packers under your guide rail each time you trimmed a mm or two off a door? Also where do you buy these assorted thickness packers?
Thanks! The raised panel stands proud of the rails and stiles by 3mm, hence the packers. Packers are in my ‘everyday workshop essentials’ list at 10minuteAmazon.com. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you!
well presented... question, in the shots in the finished room, does "England" call those shutters PLANTATION BLINDS or do you have an English term for them....
Thanks. They’re generally referred to as ‘plantation shutters’. 👍
Would you need to allow extra room for paint if trimming before painting? Or is the thickness of 2 coats of primer and 2 top coats negligible? Thanks.
No - but it’s another reason to aim for 2mm rather than 1.5! 👍
Great video Peter. The track saw does a great job in most of your projects. How often do you change or sharpen the blade. Any guidance would be helpful. Thanks.
Thanks Peter. I change blades when I have to ie when they start to burn more than cut! It’s pretty clear when that starts to happen. 👍👍
Great video Peter!
thanks i've been thinking of this the last week
i see that you use MRMDF for your doors . That is very rare and expensive here in the U.S. We use Poplar for our door frames and mdf for the panels . I do not use tenons but inset the panel from the back with a half inch wide rabbet . With modern polyurethane glues the glue is stronger than the wood anyway. No i do not glue my panels because of high humidity in the summer and low in the winter because of forced air heating.
Benefit of all MRMDF construction is that humidity, material movement etc.. is a non-issue, but I appreciate it can be hard to source in some places. 👍👍
Hello, might be a silly question but why 4 hinges at 11:44? 2-3 wont hold the weight? or is it because 4 hinges would share significantly less weight which will reduce wear and tear on hinges and screws?
Big doors, so heavy anyway, plus 4 hinges keep them in line. 👍
Very tall doors, there'd be quite a distance in between the hinges using just 3... Weight is only one part of the equation :-)
Excellent explanations
I absolutely enjoy your video !
Have you been approached to teach ?
Your methods are well suited for young cabinet maker and carpenter alike .
You would be an important addition to any school board .
Thank you! And no, never have. 🤷♂️👍
Thank You...great channel...spot on demonstrations and presentations.
So, so useful. And very clear. Thank you.
Thank you! 👍
If you trim down your shaker doors down to get the right door gaps would you be making your rails and styles an uneven widths ? With only being a few mm here and there is it not noticable to the eye ?
Or would you normally account for the door gaps when making the shaker doors initially so you keep the rails and styles all a uniform width ?
Either way works, but your eyes are drawn to the gaps between the doors much more than the stiles them. 👍
This is video I've been waiting for.
that is a great video but you glossed over the bit i always struggle with. that is where do you place your hinges. is there a standard position from the sides of a door and the front of a cabinet that the hinges need to be mounted. I too have used Blum hinges (mainly on uyour recomendation and what I fitted in my kitchen) sorry if this is covered in the fact sheet you mention.
I’ve always put them at the same height as the width of the rails, so 80mm as a general starting point. If you’re all-in on the 32mm system then the heights are pre-ordained, but for custom work ~80mm centres works well for most common door sizes. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks for that but it was more the measurement from the side of the door and carcase to the hinge. I looked through the Blum catalog and it doesn't mentionwhy you would put the cup say 4mm in Vs 3mm in from the edge of the door and what is the corresponding measurement for the + shaped piece you clip the hinge into on the inside of the cabinet.
Another very helpful video Peter - thank you 🙏
Thanks! 👍
Hi Peter, great video. A question about the moisture resistant MDF -- when you are ready to finish, do you still need to treat or seal the green parts before priming and painting, or are the green parts literally the same as the surface of the mdf as far as finishing goes?
Thankks
I’ve never used any kind of sealer on MDF. Just prime, then paint. 👍
Thank you Peter, could please ad a link for door spacers.
They’re in the ‘everyday workshop essentials’ list at 10minuteamazon.com 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop 👍
Mind the hammer (3:50) 🤣🤣🤣, thumb's don't make good nail sets. Great explanation of the major door hanging options.
Peter, muy buena tarde, muchas gracias por compartir, solo una cuestión; ya sea que uses bisagras rectas(panel por fuera), o bisagras curvas(panel por dentro del vano del mueble, pienso que se deben considerar y planear todos los gruesos, holguras al rededos de cada panel, incluso si usas melamina y debes poner cubrecantos, eso altera las medidas, no exageradamente, pero lo hace...😉, me sirvio de mucho tu video, como opciones a "solucionar" una situación dada, en puertas por fuera y por dentro, nuevamente gracias, un abrazo enorme desde Aguascalientes México...👍
PS. podrias mostrar en setalle esa bisagras que solo acomodas la puerta y hace 'clic' y ya quedó...???por favor 🇲🇽
Thank you! I go into detail on the hinges in the ‘concealed hinges’ video, link in the description. Best wishes from London! Peter
Great Peter, when you go finish the raised panels, how you do that to get it smooth, cus the 'hairy' router cutting edges .
Use good quality MR MDF and you won’t get furry edges. That’s it! 👍
Always great stuff. Thanks again.
Good to see the video though, If doing the first time it can be a head scratcher
Excellent video
I’ve learnt a lot from this. Thank you
Just wondering, any advice for max size of overlay? And how do you size/adjust the hinges to suit? I would personally love a video on this topic
Max size of overlay is determined by the hinges - the spec for them will state that. And there’s a whole video on the topic of concealed hinges and an entire playlist about hinges, links in the description. 👍
I see that you trimmed 1mm on a door near the wall, does that mean that I need to drill hole for hinge 1mm different If I order melamine on dimension that I need, I mean I'm DIY home amateur, so I order everything finished? I hope you will understand my question.
Do you not find that once they’ve all had 4 or 5 coats of paint (making a thickness of 8-10 coats for adjacent components) there’s a risk of binding? The door you showed butted against the end panel had zero clearance even before there was any finish on either 🤔
Is it something you allow for and, if so, how much? Thanks
No. A coat of paint is 0.05mm, 10 coats 0.5mm. A non-issue. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Fair enough! 👍
Great video as always
great video very interestin, where do i buy that mdf i looked at the two links and although theres loads of info about the product i carnt find anything about any suppliers. Thanks
I buy from a local yard. Any yard that deals with Medite should be able to get it in for you. 👍
Hi Peter, you have been a naughty boy! All the sides of the doors were cut and although most of the dust went towards the wall of your bench you did not wear a mask to protect yourself. All jokes apart I do enjoy your videos greatly and would not want you to get unwell.
Where can I get those spacers? 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼😬
Amazon; Plastic packers or shims - amzn.to/3QnsBOV
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you, you the man
As always another great instructional video! So enjoyable to learn the correct way to do things
Keep up the good work.
I'm surprised you had enough room to cut off 2mm from the hinge side of the door considering blum hinges sit so close to the edge. Was this pre planned maybe? Just curious. Thanks!
There’s plenty of spacing you drill the hinge cups so the door edge aligns with the carcass edge. 👍
Gotcha, I always drill them per the spec if blum.
What was happening to your vacuum when trimming the doors ? The light on it was coming on but all the sawdust was coming out. of the front of the saw.
Que the kitchen fitters of the world for their tuppence worth (that will include me).
I'd just deduct 4-5mm in total off the height and width. If the unit you made is 600mm x 720mm then the door is 595 x 715 or 596 x 716, that seems to be the standard sizing. I have come across doors a bit wider but that can be too tight for good adjustment and possible binding. I agreed that it's so important to make sure the units are straight, level and true. Any twist or tapered gaps at appliances makes it impossible to correct.
Copy/paste from the video description; “So the ‘industry standard’ used in kitchen fits and the like are that doors should be the carcass height minus 5mm, and the carcass width, minus 4 mm, and that works well for most people in the business. But as bespoke makers I don’t think it’s unreasonable to aim for something with slightly higher tolerances, and this is how I do mine. Enjoy!”
Yeah, that. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop sorry Peter didn't mean to offend. Must clear out my lug holes 🤦🤦. 😁