HVLP vs Airless? // How to paint kitchen cabinets the right way!
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2024
- In this video ill show you step by step how I apply finish to cabinets. There are other ways I'm sure but this is how I do it. I use Fuji HVLP for primer and Graco X5 for final coat. Thanks for watching!
*Plans for Lower Cabinet Carcuss Here: tinyurl.com/3e2nwdcc
These are not the plans for the cabinet in this video but a detailed set of plans for building lower cabinets. Step by step guide from material, cut list, joinery, and assembly!
*Shop: bruntworkwear.com/EASTCAROLINA10. Use code "EASTCAROLINA10" for $10 off your first order of $60 or more"
Products and tools used linked below:
Fuji Minimize 4 Platinum: a.co/d/9W88Aye
GracoMagnum X5: a.co/d/7dC5fMM
Graco FFLP 310 Tip: a.co/d/div4eDr
3M Respirator: a.co/d/eD8gHn8
Festool Rubin 150: a.co/d/imhCxdn
Sanding Mouse block: a.co/d/imw4ptw
Tack Cloth: a.co/d/6stt7RL
Harvey Tablesaw: tinyurl.com/5n72pvp7
Jessem Stock Guides: a.co/d/2jCHWID
Amana 10-in Blade: a.co/d/5pjHpCl
FastCap Tape Measure: a.co/d/cNsNwRw
FastCap Self-Adhesive Measuring Tape: a.co/d/94bZgg6
Jorgensen Bar clamps: a.co/d/4HqpeWs
Kreg Foreman: a.co/d/0zCfSS3
Rigid 18v Combo kit: a.co/d/2WUNBbg
Festool ETS 150/3 EQ sander: a.co/d/43DjECl
Festool CT MIDI Dust Extractor: a.co/d/iZzAuQo
Camera/Recording gear linked below:
Canon Eos RP: a.co/d/c5pUcZN
DJI wireless mic: a.co/d/jaXD767
Rode NT-USB mic: a.co/d/fF6q7aa
SmallRig tripod: a.co/d/20whEuE
DJI Ronin SC2: a.co/d/28rYmep
Iphone 13 Pro Max: a.co/d/dgRfeMp
DJI Osmo Mobile 3: a.co/d/3NTb9EU 
Развлечения
I was expecting a video with more of a HVLP vs Airless, as the title says.
I'm pre-disappointed
Agreed!!! Weaknesses- I skipped ahead once realizing it wasn’t what I was seeking for
I was looking for a comparison between HVLP and Airless. Maybe change your title so it's not so misleading. It might improve your view duration too!
my $0.02 is that if you're doing small shop projects just get an HVLP
the problem with airless is they need like ~3/4 of a gallon to fill the lines
that means you always need 2 gallons of paint in order to paint something
it also needs 1-2 gallons of water to purge the lines and clean it out
there's also a lot more overspray even with a 311 fine finish tip, you have to put up tarps in a square to contain the overspray (I learned this the hard way got paint dust across my garage)
that's a lot of hassle for doing home projects and even for cabinets (unless you have the space for a whole kitchen)
the main benefit is you can spray latex without thinning and do it all in 1 coat
with an HVLP you only need a pint of paint
but you will most likely need to thin it by ~25% and do 2-3 coats
the extra coats can be done almost instantly. i will spray 3 panels at once and by the time the 3rd panel is done, the 1st is dry to the touch and can be sprayed again
I have found that in an HVLP, use a super premium paint. they come less thick in the can and when thinned seem to perform ok too
the cheap $30/gallon stuff doesn't self level as good so when thinned you will see lots of micro dots and you will need to thin it more.
get the $60/gallon stuff. this stuff usually performs better too for scuffs n cleaning
the HVLP also has almost no overspray. you can spray in 1/4 of a 2 car garage and not get paint any where. just place a tarp on the floor and on the walls adjacent. no need for a full square of tarps
the clean up is also way easier. just clean the gun. it's easier than cleaning a paint brush.
I ended up buying: full-sized airless (the one on a cart with wheels), handheld airless, HVLP + 26g compressor. ironically all of them were about the same price. ($400 ea setup)
I went with an HVLP on a compressor vs turbine because I said to myself, I already have a bunch of pneumatic nailers.. cordless nailers are $200-300 each so might as well get a quiet compressor and use all my existing tools. the wife no longer complains. you cannot hear the compressor at all inside the house. even right next to the garage door it's about as loud as my AC vents
in short, use an airless to paint your house, use an HVLP to paint your woodworking projects (unless you have a full on shop)
Your thoughts on sanding are spot on! This is my 3rd video of yours I've watched and love the tips I've learned. Starting the sprayer below the surface is a great tip to avoid splatter, I've encountered that in the past.
It's another step but using a couple biscuits makes aligning the face frame a little easier.
What a shop you have. Cleaner than a hospital. Great video. Thanks !!!!!!!!
Enjoying this series of cabinet building . . . and ur commentary is great too. Very entertaining!
Glad your enjoying the videos! 👍🏻
Love it man. Nice job!
why you do not paint back of the back
Never a dull moment! LOL! I watched two of your other videos and have learned soo much. Great tips and love the intros. I cant wait to start painting!
Just found your site and love it. keep up the good work especially the detail that you go into very important for folks trying this for the first time.
Thanks I really appreciate it! 👍🏻
I don't know if this is good or not but i sand all of the inside before I put the cabinet together. I see you use a sanding pad that will take the same discs as the power sander..I also finish the inside before assembly - not right or wrong - just the way I do it... Wish I had a spray room. I have worked in a couple of shops with one and they are great... Spray up and down - not right or wrong - just your way, and fine if it gets the job done!!! Love those sanding blocks!!! I use the same ones. Bang, your shot!!!!!
I replayed that first 20 seconds so many times, it's freakin' hilarious! 😂 I'm crying from laughing too much! I love your videos man!
Great series. My cabinets are way overdue for a facelift but I plan to do what no one else seems to even mention doing. I’m going to paint the inside of my cabinets with a high gloss enamel. As that’s where my dishes, herbs & spices, as well as much of my food lives, I want it to be as well washable as the outside. Italso makes it easier to see. Iam also going to add one or more columns of holes, depending on thewidth of the cabinet, on the back to putmore shelf supports.
These things may havesomething to do with why I can’t find anyone to that I can afford to work for me. 🤓
I'm a painting contractor and I often paint the insides of the cabinet and after hit it with a clear coat (at least on the shelf.) This makes the surface extremely durable, heavy ceramics don't stick or make scuffs/ impressions into the enamel. Of course scuff sand between the paint coat and lacquer/poly clear coat.
Are you spraying the inside because you prefer them to be the same as the outside? Otherwise you could shoot whatever gloss polyurethane you want on the inside.
@@markburton9614 No. The inside will be white while the outside will be pale yellow or light sage green. No matter what the color on the outside, I want the inside to be a high gloss white enamel.
I use refinished plywood,saves on labor,thanks for the video.
Not a bad job, good safety measures! I personally use UV-finished plywood for interiors, tape it off so overspray doesn't pepper the insides, and use Gemini vinyl sealer for first step and either Gemini precat lacquer or conversion varnish for subsequent coats (stained finishes) and white vinyl sealer (painted finishes)...with the faceframe already attached so Bondo/Famowood filled nail holes get finished at the same time. Sherwin Williams lacquer is so low in solids and has become so sub-par lately. But, 150 grit is king! trust this guy...it's all you need!
What do you use for water based lacquer or paint - I can’t use oil in my shop
Great video!
Thanks for the positive feedback 👍🏻
You and Bourbon Moth must be two brothers by a different mother. 🤩👍👍
I used to get the small bottles with applicator tips for doing hair from salons for doing glazing in door profiles before the amazing glaze came out, they worked pretty well if you are glazing with liquid glaze vs spraying and wiping it. How big is your opening for your top drawer? It looks a bit bigger than what I'm used to seeing which is about 5" or so. Anyway, thanks for the vid and the tip about starting the airless below the cabinets is great because I have tried spraying flat pieces side to side and you are right you do occasionally get that little sputter or drip which is frustrating. Cheers!
Great vid. Thanks for laugh and the info
really nice job
I'm obviously from E Carolina too...I understood every word you said in the intro 😮
You might want to look at M.L. Campbell products . They are a couple steps up from the over the counter paint store products. I still use solvent based finishes - mainly the Magnamax line of pre catalyzed finishes. Campbell makes an opaque tint that works great for white cabinets and then top coated with Magnamax dull or satin clear finish. I have commercial bartops finished over 15 years ago with magnamax with no finish failure. Your graco system will work well with these finishes. I use a Sata pump system.
Nice work 💯💯
Nice work
Just stumbled across your videos. You do great work! What is the red apparatus you put on a gallon can to pour? I’d like to have one of those, it looks so handy!
Great video! Love to know all about your spray area and exhaust fan. Is there any make up air? Thanks😊
Wax paper between the clamp and paint works good
Nice work and I'm curious to know why you sprayed the first coat with the SW lacquer. Why not go straight to the shellac primer? You must have a good reason why! Cheers!!
I am also curious as to why this step was added.
I like a the Emerald too. Supper hard finish when dry. I sprayed it a Sata 5000 using a 1.3 tip thinning 10%. Has an automotive finish. I did have to spray it at 45 psi. I want to see how the air spraying worked. I think a bigger tip would help . Thanks for the videos learning a lot.
Glad you enjoyed the video and hope they continue to help 👍🏻
I've sprayed all my painted furniture with a gravity fed HVLP gun. I'll usually thin the paint a little and run a 1.5 or 1.7 mm tip and remove the filter inside the gun that's under the cup. Everything sprays great and melds together perfectly. Only issue ever ran into was spraying it when it was too hot(95* in the garage) and it would dry too fast causing a rough feel.
What kind of paint do you use? Often times you can add a touch of slow solvent to retard the drying allowing it to flow out nice.
Nice job bro.
Great video!!! I want to spray some cabinets, and I'd love to buy a Fuji sprayer, but... since I only have this one project, I can't justify it. I have one of those small pancake air compressors that people use around the garage for blowing up bike tires and shooting brads. Do you know if I buy a cheap $40 Harbor Freight HVLP gun... will it work for spraying cabinets? Now... I 100% know it won't work... WELL... but... I don't even know it if would work AT ALL. I figure the air compressor will kick on ever 2-3 passes... so it would be slow going... but... it's possible... yeah? Or... do you think it just won't even work at all?
I’m getting ready to spray cabinets but waiting for the weather to get above 60’s. Spraying Emerald as well but Sherwin recommended their wood/metal primer. Have you used this, and should I use the Zin/Bin instead?
I have not used it I’ve always done BIN because of dry time. I like that I can sand between coats in 15-20mins
Great video and channel. I didn't quite catch your reason for going airless with the paint. I only have an Apollo 4 stage with a 7700 gun and tips 1.0, 1.3, 1.5, and 1.8. I'm hoping to spray both primer and Emerald. Pittsburg ? has a page for Emerald, saying you can spray it with a 1.3 on a 4 stage. Do you have a take on this? Thx
I just chose airless because it’s easier for setup and spray with a fflp tip. Don’t have to do any thinning to compromise durability 👌🏻
Love the opening of the video...great job..I also, like the MIB reference...anyway, what got me to your video as wondering about HVLP vs Airless which I don't recall you speaking to.
More specifically, I'm wondering "HOW" dry the air from my compressor to use my HVLP gun, or should I just go with the Fuji system?
Thanks in advance, and I appreciate the effort you put into your video...
use filters on your air lines to prevent moisture
Great video. I’m enjoying this series on the cabinets. I do have a question. What material is that you have over your miter saw. I really like that idea.
It’s a rubber stair tread that I cut slits in! Works pretty good 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks That’s pretty ingenious. Thanks for the reply. Keep up the great content.
Intersting that you did not tape or seal off the inside. You must be very confident of the lack of overspray. Thanks for the video from your "neighbor" in Chocowinity NC
I had cardboard laying down on the inside to help with overspray. I don’t worry soo much with overspray light sand will take it out worse case. Glad to see someone local watching!
Hi, Joe in Chocowinity. Greetings to Beaufort Co. from northern Wake Co. here. I LOVE making cabinets (only frameless Euro style since I've seen the light), but absolutely Nobody can loathe painting them as much as I do. Not only is it miserable work, I feel like I spend 10 minutes of cleaning my Graco for every minute of actual painting. YUCK!!!
Great video! I see you spray flat - have you seen the Pivot Point and Pivot Line from Guffey Systems? GAME CHANGER !!!
Good shit man
Nice video. I don't have an airless sprayer. I have a Graco FinishPro 9.5 HVLP. Can you still spray the Emerald with this?
Yes you can I’ve seen people do it! Just got to have the right tip for it. I just use the graco x5 so I don’t have to thin it down!
I am buying a Fuji and will be spraying my cabinets one of these days. I have been building and remodeling since I was 17 which is 50 years. When I got a price to have it done 😮SERIOUSLY??? I can buy myself a nice Fuji system and do it myself and save money…not my first rodeo and any excuse to buy tools AND save money is a no brainer!
This was the first time I’ve seen someone spray lacquer and then prime! Is that to seal the wood more effectively than just the enamel paint will?
No he sprayed the inside with lacquer to protect the inside since he didn’t paint the inside. The outside was painted with primer (not lacquer) because he painted the outside with actual paint, hope this helps
Wow I like the way it done 👍 without scratch 😅😅
I'm interested in buying an HVLP sprayer, but I'm concerned about it getting paint everywhere. Like when I used spray paint to paint my ceiling fan blades. I removed them and put them in the basement and after painting them, there was a thin film of paint covering just about every surface in my basement. Does this happen with HVLP sprayers too?
Every HVLP sprayer I looked at says NOT FOR LATEX PAINT. so I"m confused. Seems like everyone uses them.
Good job
😃I've enjoyed your videos and just subscribed and have watched most of your cabinet construction videos. My question regards the toe kick. I've noticed that you install it between the sides, and don't install it until after finishing. I'm curious why not. I suppose it has to do with job requirements. My expectations were that you'd put it on the outside (front) and paint/finish it. Then, if your baseboards don't fully cover the 4", the product will still have a finished look for the floor crawlers. Thanks.
A lot of people here are not looking for instructions on how to actually paint cabinets, but to just watch this thing coming together. That's why details, like all those multiple coats, closeups of the surface before sanding and after, could be very jucy for us. Especially closeups. But thanks for the vid.
Enjoy your video. Quick question the spraying paint. Have you tried to spray it with your Fuji? I have a Fuji Q5 and building my own kitchen cabinets and was going to spray them using the Fuji. Already didn’t the insides with M.L Cambells Krystal and look great. Just curious about doing the outsides and the Fuji
Yes I have! It sprays well using 2.0 tip and thinned about 10% 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks thank you
I live in Wilmington and am a cabinet guy as well.
Awesome! Thanks for checking out my channel 👍🏻
I'm a newbie and would like to know why do most experience cabinet makers build the face frame a little bigger than the face of the box. Why you don't put it flush?
What exhaust system do you use?
Your videos remind me of another woodworking RUclipsr Burbonmoth. Enjoying your videos so far. Great job!
Thanks for the positive feedback! I’ve got plenty more coming 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks you are one bourbon bottle in a video away from a total BourbonMoth vibe. Really enjoy your videos so far, and looking forward to more!
Looks like my cabinet build. But what do you do about the pocket holes on the inside of the cabinet? Wood filler? Pocket hole cutout?
Just really depends on the customer. I find 75% of the clients don’t even really care that it’s on the inside but if they do I fill with pocket hole cutouts 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks personally I wouldn't want to open a cabinet and see all the holes. But I'm biased toward frameless, hate making frames.
You remind me of the Jase Robertson of Duck Dynasty 😂 that’s a compliment!
The Emerald paint instructions say to use a 0.013 tip size minimum. The Graco FFLP tip in your link is a 0.01 size and it still worked? And about how much pressure did you add with the pressure dial? I also have an X5.
I have a Q5 that I just got, haven't used it yet... wanted to shoot Insl-x cabinet coat with it... which is a urethane like the Sherwin... think the Q5 will shoot it?
From my understanding I think it will with the right tip size. Still may have to dilute it some but I think with the 5 stage it should work!
Have you had any adhesion problems gluing the face-frame to the carcass since painting it first?
Never had a problem!
So the first lacquer material you sprayed on was a sanding sealer? Doesn’t that eliminate the need for primer?
I only spray lacquer on the inside of my cabinet. The outside gets sprayed with Zinsser bin primer
The only thing I would do different is paint the inside of the cabs white...bounces any light around making it easier to see what you're looking for especially when LED strips are installed. I put white bumpy plastic sheets on the bottoms so pots and pans, etc. slide easily in and out without grinding dust and whatnot.
white bumpy plastic sheets?
@@Zupdood2 It's the type of stuff seen on bathroom walls in Home Depot, etc., that prevents graffiti.
Only video that I’ve seen that actually installed a toe kick. Do you band and paint the toe kick?
I was wondering were do you buy your pre finished plywood? Im Durham NC
Thank you for tour respond
Unfortunately I don’t get pre finished…I have to finish myself 😞
So in one video you put the drawers in and it wasn't painted or stained. Since staining is usually just rubbing on, do you put the drawers in (minus drawer faces) before you stain.. but when painting do it after?
If you switch over to SW Gallery you can do it all with the HVLP. I'm trying it out now on a MM5 platinum.
I’ve been using Emerald urethane from SW thinned about 10% with my Fuji HVLP and have been having great results! I want to try the Gallery series it’s just soo expensive 😳
Have you use Sherwood water base lacquer ? I hate the the dry time on SW Emerld paint.
Yea dry time sucks but it dries hard and levels out pretty good! I have not tried the water based lacquer 🤔
If cabinets need to repainted, would you recommend to send it down and put a primer or it’s going to be fine without primer?
Yes i always recommend sanding down to refinish!
Hi there, could you share what primer and paint did you use in the video? Thank you
I use Zinsser bin primer and SW Emerald urethane for paint 👍🏻
How do you like the Graco Airless Sprayer? How does it do with primer?
Did you sand between coats on the finish urethane paint or not necessary?
What type of ventilation system did you design. Looks like you used a different sprayer for the paint. Am I right…what type of sprayer did you use….
Yes because I’m using SW emerald urethane it’s very thick and don’t like to dilute it much. I used a graco x5 with FFLP tip! For ventilation I have a 24” explosion proof fan pulling the fumes out through a filter. Hope this helps 👍🏻
I noticed some cardboard on top while you were painting. Was that for overspray?
Yes it was! I don’t get much overspray at all but just to be safe 👍🏻
What tip(s) did you use for the Fuji? Thinking of getting one.... 😉
I’ve got all the tips but for spraying the Zinsser bin primer I find either the 1.0 or 1.3mm nozzle works best! They are great hvlp sprayers!
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Thanks; how about for the lacquer?
@@deanharris2240 I spray the primer and lacquer with the 1.3mm tip mostly!
I also have a Fuji 4 stage turbine with gravity feed gun with a 1.4mm tip. I'm spraying that exact paint on a project this weekend. Do you thin the paint before you spray and if so, how much? I'm wondering if I should be spraying with a 1.8 instead. Thanks!
I thin it 10% but I spray it with a 2.0mm tip with my Fuji gun 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Wow! Sounds like I need to order a bigger tip. No wonder I had to thin it much more than you do. Thanks!
@@eastcarolinawoodworks I just read up on Roger's website and he recommends a 1.8 but it sounds like the 2.0 works well for you.
@@hhanger1 it really just depends on how much you thin it. I’ve heard a 1.8 works well for others as well 👍🏻
@East Carolina Woodworks - what tip are you using in the Graco X5 with the Emerald - I understand it's a Fine Finish tip, but which one?
Have you ever made drawers in the toe kick area for pans baking sheets etc…
I personally haven’t. Not that I couldn’t do it just haven’t had a customer or request for it. Maybe one day I’ll do them 🤫
I'm a fan of using every cubic inch of storage space. I did something similar recently but made it a flip-down door. Really handy in our small kitchen.
Not sure if it's been asked, but can you spray latex well enough with your mini mite 4 and not needed to switch to the graco
Keen to know the answer too as I have a Fuji hvlp and looking for a very durable paint to use with it.
@@roberttaylor4780 i have purchased the mini mite 4, great reviews for all sprayers! with that said i am spraying zinsser bullseye 123 primer and Sherwin Williams emerald trim urethane(water base paint). both diluted(about 6oz of water per quart do not over thin) using the 1.8 fugi cap and needle. hope this helps.
@@LincolnWoodworks thanks. Do you find that the paint is durable enough especially after thinning? Is it suitable for high traffic areas like a kitchen or better suited to wardrobes?
@@roberttaylor4780 yes sir! I was super impressed with how well the sprayer worked and how the paint looked! We have a small RUclips channel(check it out we have some fun), we are new with the sprayer and have not showed it yet but it's awesome . Diluteing the paint is more common than not, I think alot of people do not want to say that they do. Another good channel that explains more about prep and clean up with fugi is, Armor of God woodwork on RUclips.
I agree on the 150 grit sandpaper! I think were most folks problems come from are poor sanders that leave random swirl patterns in the wood.😁🛫
lol
Manicurist here.. I agree w the 150. I use 100/180. 😉
Is the enamel as hard as a lacquer? How long does it take to dry? And why not a precat lacquer?
Where did you get the Fuji sprayer that uses a disposable cup????
It’s called the 3m PPS system. If you look it up on Amazon or other RUclips videos for the Fuji system you will find it! I highly recommend it. 👍🏻
Do you add a thin appearance piece to the kick plate to hide the plywood edge? Perhaps a white piece?
Is there a reason why you didn’t paint the SW emerald with the HVLP? Could you have painted it with the HVLP?
I have a Graco X5 and the blue/green fine finish tips, but debating to buy the Harbor fright 5 stage HVLP just because it seems SO much easier and less time then the graco x5 for smaller jobs. Please Let me know your thoughts
How do you install a drawer front to your cabinet drawers, where it looks clean?
I may do a video on this soon but short version I pre drill the pull handles and line my drawer front up where I want it to be. Then I run screws through the pre drilled holes into my drawer box. At the point the front is fastened to the drawer box. Next I open the drawer and screw in the drawer front from the inside of the drawer. Then you can remove screws from the drawer pull holes finish drilling them out into the drawer and install handles. Hope this makes sense, it’s super easy 👍🏻
Do you have to thin the Bin at all before spraying?
Are you suposed to paint inside,, and if not why? do i have to sand b4 primer?
Great work brother! Only thing I'd recommend is not touching the surfaces with your bare hands.... the natural oils on your skin can cause issues with the paint... I use latex gloves
Very smart and I’ll keep that in mind moving forward! 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks I learned that from my buddy who's an autobody man.... it can cause fish-eye, where the finish doesn't adhere correctly in spots
Hi, from Italy. I have a question: why the frame is slightly wider than the body ?
most cabinets here have a frame that over hangs about a quarter inch.
Sometime soon, how about going through building a corner cabinet (lower, like you would have on an inside corner) Maybe using a lazy suzan or other options too.
Do you have a door and drawer/false front video?
Gonna do a video on that as well! Stay tuned👍🏻
Enjoyed the video! This is a bit off subject, but how well does your respirator work with your full beard?
It actually works quite well! My beard does catch a little overspray though ha!
I’m 🫤 confused, but then again I’m new at this, why lacquer under primer and top coat?
I’m spraying lacquer only on the inside of the cabinet to protect the bare wood. Outside gets primer and top coat. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworksoh thank you, and good work👍
Will the paint give a nice hard finish for a long time. We have cabinets in our home now that I think previous owners painted and the finish is kinda sticky to the fingers.
Sherwin Williams urethane enamel cures hard and I can’t recommend it enough!
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Okay. Well, it's CERTAINLY worth a try. It's been the reason I haven't wanted to finish cabinets the Airbnb I'm building because I don't feel I can get the finish that pre-finished cabinets get from the manufacturer.
@@cackleberryfarm4598 this finish is way better than any finish you buy from Lowes or Home Depot 👍🏻 you will definitely be able to tell the difference!
@@eastcarolinawoodworks all right! I will give it a shot!
Do you thin the primer at all?
What do you do with the pocket holes on the inside of the carcass?
When does the video for HVLP vs Airless sprayers come out? 😢
I’d like to know about your spray booth. What does that all consist of?
It’s a 14x24 and I closed off half of it to actually spray in. The other half is where everything dries. It’s got a 24” explosion proof fan to pull the fumes out with a filter in front of the fans. What else would you like to know?
@@eastcarolinawoodworks thanks. This is the next thing I need to build in my shop. I was thinking of making a 12 foot wide six foot deep, open face booth. Filter wall and fan on back wall. My trouble is incoming air. I’m afraid all my shop dust will just be sucked right over my wet finish. Just trying to determine what to do.
@@nathangrepke4193 I’d recommend closing it off. There is a chance of that happening for sure but other people paint in open face spray booths in their shop all the time. It’s really what you can afford at the time. 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Thanks so much for your replies. It means a lot!
@@nathangrepke4193 no problem glad I could help 😎
I know you said you were thinking of not filming this, but why not do a video on the entire thing? Like installing and adding a top?
Haha that’s what I’ve decided. Glad you brought it up. There will also be a video on installing!
@@eastcarolinawoodworks in my opinion, which isnt much, thats the hardest part! Cant ever scribe right 😭
Can the inside of the cabinets be painted rather than shellacked?
Yooooo where did you get the pouring spouts for the top of the cans ?
Lowes they work great!
@@eastcarolinawoodworks ah we don't have lowes here in Ireland:(
@@Th3BeardedTrad3r check online I’m sure somewhere has it! 👍🏻
What size green tip do you use on your airless?
I use the FFLP tips which stand for fine finish low pressure. Depending on the spray pattern I will change tips but typically like to spray a fan width of about 4-6 inches 👍🏼
What kind of building are you using for your shop?
I work out of a 25x30 but I have a separate building 14x24 that I spray in. I closed off about a 12x14 room in the back of the 14x24 building and turned into spray booth 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks it looks like a metal frame structure with a tarp/fabric over it. Who is the manufacturer? Thanks.
@@mickeydavis7929 it’s a metal building. That’s insulation your seeing. It’s made by superior metal structures.
love the intro, funny as hell 🤣🤣😂
Haha thanks 👍🏻
Emerald is soft compared to lacquer or Kem Aqua Plus. Airless spits and wastes tons of paint. You should’ve stuck with the hvlp. Plus hvlp has better atomization than any fflp tip I’ve ever tried which I have 5 different size tips of fflps not to mention all the other types of tips I’ve tried and used with an airless to get it to atomize better. None have produced a finish as good as hvlp
I love Sherwin Williams precat lacquer and an HVLP gun. The lacquer is dry almost before the overspray hits the floor. It is unbelievably durable and is much easier than an airless when you get the hang of it.
I too have tried airless sprayers graco ...had nothing but trouble with sputtering and spitting...even it had 10 good passes only takes one bad pass to mess the project up....I even thinned the paints ....still didn't work...tried all kinds of tips and strainers.....going to experiment with hlvp
@@stephenrositer7204 ca technologies fe-line cpr spray gun with compliant air cap and 1.3mm needle/nozzle, 3M H/O cup and ca technologies by-pass mini regulator. I’ve never gotten a better finish from another gun ever and I have tried quite a few. I use an air compressor a turbine would work too but the hot air from it will leave dry spots
I’ve been doing cabinets here in Las Vegas for over 30 years. We use Melamine’s for our boxes. Great choices of colors. I’ve noticed you use plywood. Is that your choice or is it better in the in your area with moisture? We’ve had people request plywood but we got the pre finished.
I use maple ply for the boxes and works great! It’s used a lot in my area and easy to work with 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks thanks for the reply. It’s amazing the difference in standards from one side of the country to the other.
I live in NC and the Carolinas get VERY humid. Everything I have seen made from Melamine or particle board, eventually swells or discolors.
@@evilgenius3646 Yes! I'm in Texas and the "particle" board shelves inside my cabinets have been disintegrating! It's a shame because the actual cabinet frame wood is so solid you can't stick a thumbtack in it.
@@evilgenius3646 Sealed around the edge of PVC, may be better😅
Question on your face frames. How come they’re not flush on the sides, is this because this cabinet would be freestanding?
I like to overhang the face frame for scribing or any inconsistencies with the cabinet carcass! Its not necessary, its more of a preference 👍
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Cool, thanks for replying!
I have a LVHP gun for my cars I paint. Can I use this with indoor paints? My wife wants to paint her cabinets with my gun. Well have me paint them lol
What do you use to clean the gun after using BIN primer? 6:35
I do a mixture of ammonia and water. 50/50 mix and cleans it right up!
@@eastcarolinawoodworks 🎯
Do customers not mind the pocket holes on the inside of the cabinet?
Just depends on the customer. Most don’t and ones that do I’ll clamp the face frames to the carcuss instead of pocket holes👍🏻