Big thanks to BRUNT for sending me the work gear and supporting the channel! Here's the site if you want to check them out! bruntworkwear.com/EASTCAROLINA10
Love the build and content as I'm looking to build a bathroom cabinet and I need to do it in a day or two. IMHO big brain fart at @24:45 when you left the Microjig on the table instead of in your hand. The tablesaw loves to surprise us when we get too comfy. Learned a bunch from the build as I tend to over engineer things.
Love the details of your videos - you seem to act on each step of how you envision the process in your head. Harder to explain, but much easier to follow visually. And thanks for pausing when explaining and letting the video do the talking. Makes everything much more digestible.
Love the build. No complaints. I do have something to say about the glue though. Obviously gluing makes a stronger, longer lasting joint but I think it's more applicable to stand alone pieces. I've built tons of cabinets. Including building kitchens and I've found that I like to just screw the cabinets together. Once they're screwed to the walls and each other, they're not coming apart. How strong does something need to be? At some point it's just redundant. By not glueing, it's gives you the ability to take them apart if you made any errors (which will 100% happen) without destroying the panels. It's been a live saver at times being able to disassemble a cabinet effortlessly, make the cuts/adjustments etc. and reassemble. Just food for thought. In this case, a stand alone cabinet is probably just fine to glue up as most likely the measurements are spit on and less convoluted. Nice job sir👊
I would agree with you about not gluing in most cases! I have made errors before and after you glue something it’s near impossible to fix! Thanks for the feedback 🤙🏼
Great stuff! Im building a Skoolie into a RV and this procedure is perfect(or good enuff for a Skoolie). That Poplar is pretty enuff to just stain/seal IMHO. One thing: @26:35 you are setting up to the outside of the blade-for some new woodworkers, the teeth on the blade are offset, so measure to the correct tooth!
Awesome build, I'm currently building a coffee bar for my wife and built my very first set of base cabinets. I have a little job site table saw so all my joinery is pocket holes. Hoping to be finished with it by Christmas. Keep the videos coming man, excellent work and love your attention to detail explaining what you're doing and why.
I really like how you break down your plywood with the Sheetrock square and trac saw but if I wanted to use just the trac saw cross cut the side of the base cabinets to height I could do that ?
Great job. Thanks for showing how you set your saws. I noticed you did not use a push stick all the time. Please take the time to think about your fingers.
I'm fixing to build all my own cabinets your series will help me soooo much ! Mine will be oak with stain and poly ! If you don't have a series in staining and poly with the proper sanding leading up to please make one if you do please link it to me ! Ty so much new subscriber
😉hey look, he can move his hand out of the way when setting the blade height (lol, camera is still in same place as other video, just this time you moved your hand😁). Dude, LOVE your videos. Just found them two days ago and they are even better than BourbonMoth. Keep 'em coming!
I really like how you built this and all your videos. Ok I'm building this cabinet for my gun room I want to put a hidden compartment under the counter top. I want it to have a hidden release and the top to tilt up like a door. How would you do this or can you make a video on how to do this.
If you haven’t figured this out yet, Matthew Peech has several videos covering a variety of pieces of furniture and wall hangings like coat racks and floating shelves.
I wish you had commented on the difference between airless and HVLP and why you use which one for what. I am assuming you use the airless because you choose the enamel instead of lacquer for the finish coat. Why do you prefer each product for what application. Thank you for all the information!!
So when you're doing an overlay style door like that, you probably have to know what type of hinge and how much overlay it calls for before building your doors? I'm thinking about building new doors for my existing cabinets and I don't really know what I'm doing hinge wise. I feel like it's probably best I just reuse the current ones so I can just use the exact dimensions of the current door, but I also like the tighter gaps you have here.
Yes that’s correct it’s best to know the hinge specs before building your doors. And it really depends on the face frame whether or not you can get the right gaps on existing cabinets. You can always buy different size overlays to make it work but sometimes it doesn’t always work. Hope this helps if you have any more questions you can email me and I’ll try to explain better 👍🏻
Great video, thank you @eastcarolinawoodworks ! What specific dado blade are you using or recommend? It's not included in your description. I plan to build some cabinets as personal projects and don't want to invest $400 in a dado blade set but I don't mind spending $100-$200 on a dado blade. Hope to hear your thoughts!
Great cabinet video series! Very helpful in my own build even though I'm doing wall shelves. Wondering how tight the gap between each door should be? Obviously I don't want an interference fit, but I don't want a huge gap either. Trying to get my cabinet doors fitting this tight!
Great build. Question on face frame pocket hole settings and screw lengths. How thick is your face frame? What size screws did you use to secure the face frame to the cabinet? What setting did you have the Kreg jig set to for drilling the pocket holes? What did you set the drill bit stopper to?
Face frame is 3/4” thick. Screw size is 1 1/4” in length. Kreg jig is set to 3/4” thick material. The jig has setting to set the depth for drilling the pocket hole. Hope this helps 👍🏻
@@basha9482Missing info is that the length of the screw is dictated by the thickness of the material you are attaching the pocket holed panel/part too. So pocket hole settings are dictated by the material the pocket hole is being drilled in and the screw length (and type) is dictated by thickness of the material you are attaching to. Kreg has a tool on their site for determining what each should be or there are charts available also.
Sorry, one more tip for everyone. When I build shaker doors/drawer panels, I put a small champfer on the egde of all the rail and stile joints. Especially if you're painting it. Guaranteed the paint will separate between those joints in time and you will see a line. Unless someone else knows about a paint that I'm not aware of that doesn't do that....let me know. But in any case, the champfer, I think, actually adds a nice touch to the look and will be straight as an arrow, eliminating the paint crack situation.
How are you liking yourJessEm 04301 Clear-Cut TS Stock Guides. Only having the uses of 1 hand I have been thinking about getting a set. I have been doing a lot of cabinets lately and from what I have seen and heard they could be a great addition to my saw
Yes they are great for breaking down plywood! if i was building custom furniture at different thicknesses all the time I would hate having to adjust all the time but since 90% of my work is cabinets i set it and forget it! LOVE IT!
I do a separate 1/4” thick toe kick I paint separate and attach after install. Finished ends I just paint unless client wants it finished to match doors. Hope this helps 👍🏻
Missing info is that the length of the screw is dictated by the thickness of the material you are attaching the pocket holed panel/part too. So pocket hole settings are dictated by the material the pocket hole is being drilled in and the screw length (and type) is dictated by thickness of the material you are attaching to. Kreg has a tool on their site for determining what each should be or there are charts available also.
Aesthetics considered, I assume pocket holes from the outside of cabinet only acceptable if you plan to paint or put veneer over it? Can’t imagine plugs in pocket holes yielding visually pleasing results. edit: about to undertake my first cabinet build.
@@kubota33 glass door cabinets I do differently. I glue and pin nail the face frame on. Whole cabinet gets painted anyway so it’s just easier to finish the cabinet completely assembled 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Oh I see. I thought you were doing clear coat inside. And paint outside. Why not use white melamine? So many different ways to do things. I still dont understand why you dont use full backs. Less work, more strength. Better way to use off cuts. You can put a screw anywhere you want. :) You make good videos Thanks
@@eastcarolinawoodworks And we'll hang out in the coolest bars In the V.I.P. with the movie stars Every good gold digger's gonna wind up there Every Playboy Bunny with her bleached blond hair and, well
Cabinets can display anything. Nobody but nobody addresses the issue of shop dust covering the French cleat items. Cabinets with sliding doors will solve the problem. No back to cabinet. Hand French cleat items in cabinet. Use lexan panel for visibility. Your thoughts. Better yet build one and make the video!!!! Thx Bruce. Cleats and Cabinets ( sort of like root beer and ice !)
I’ve got a problem for you. I’m putting a kitchen in a 150 year farmhouse with hardwood floors throughout. The kitchen is 13’ long. In that space, the floor drops 3”. The engineer says it’s structurally sound, so my husband doesn’t want to take out then floor. I can put in a graduated toe kick, but that’s going to make the counter height at the end 39”. I’m 4’11”…a 39” tall counter is going to really, really tall for me. Now what?
Jack up the house it’s just sitting on piers if that old. A couple 20 ton bottle jacks from harbor freight and some wedges and all good. Just go slow with your movements up. Those old houses were not secured to the piers like a new house. The main beams are just sitting on top of the pier. Wedge it from each side of the beam after it gets level or close to it on the inside. Takes 2 people to do it but it’s simple. One in the house with the level and one underneath.
Am I seeing things? When you cut the tie kick; in one shot you cut to the bottom of the dado. In the next shot; it appears to me you made new side panels. I say that because in the second shot the toe kick isn't cut to the dado.
I’d have to go back and look. I was making several cabinet parts that day since all my stuff was set up so it is possible. I was mainly trying to show how you could build the cabinet in one day but I was also making other cabinets in the mix 👍🏻
Made a cabinet out of birch ply. During glue up , had drips on inside which i didnt notice until next day …grrr. Anyways didnt want too have too paint cabinet ,,what is the easiest way to get glue off so i can stain…was worried that sanding would go through veneer ..thanks ray
@@eastcarolinawoodworks in your video you mentioned no one was sponsoring your video. Well I will sponsor one. I’m not a tool maker ex. This video is sponsored by Milwaukee Tools. Well I don’t make tools but I am associated with ‘Ask A Genius’ I was impressed with your layout and explanation of cutting lengths with appropriate diagram so what does it take to sponsor one of your videos.
I'm doing a small double drawer unit and forgot to mill the maple drawer box parts to 5/8" to fit the undermount slides. Now I'm kicking myself as I try to thin up the sides (no need for the front or back). My jointer is only a 6", and these drawers are 7 1/4" tall, so that was out. If maple wasn't so damn expensive in New England right now (and maybe everywhere), I'd cut these up, put the maple to use later, and just start over. Of course, they are dovetailed too, so either way, it's labor. Grrrrrrr.
@@mvlaubach you can remove the guard on your jointer and do the 6" you can then run it through planer with a simple jig... I think on learned that trick from Next Level Carpentry channel
Just be sure the granite or stone will be 2” profile as many stones for countertops come in thinner thickness than 2” and I’m sure you probably know that so why and I typing instead of watching 😮😂
Yea they are pricey but prevent kickback and helps keep your pieces tight against your fence! Took me a long time to buy because of the price but finally pulled the trigger and I love them 😎
@@eastcarolinawoodworks I think I'll build some, they're really not that complex... a couple of bearings for wheels... or I'll borrow the ones from my offset printing press lol
Watch Matlock on your own time. Lol Since everyone loves sanding so much, it’s far more faster to just sand blast your adult legos before assembly. Saves tons of time. Will my butt look like that in those pants? I already have enough girl issues at work already!!!
Big thanks to BRUNT for sending me the work gear and supporting the channel! Here's the site if you want to check them out! bruntworkwear.com/EASTCAROLINA10
❤
15:18. I picked one of those up as well, and could figure out what the accessories were for. Glad I clicked.
Love the build and content as I'm looking to build a bathroom cabinet and I need to do it in a day or two. IMHO big brain fart at @24:45 when you left the Microjig on the table instead of in your hand. The tablesaw loves to surprise us when we get too comfy. Learned a bunch from the build as I tend to over engineer things.
Love the details of your videos - you seem to act on each step of how you envision the process in your head. Harder to explain, but much easier to follow visually. And thanks for pausing when explaining and letting the video do the talking. Makes everything much more digestible.
Thank you soo much! Glad you enjoyed 🤙🏼
This is probably the most helpful video I've found while planning out cabinets, Thanks!
this was SO helpful to see every step in order. I had a lot of questions about things that were clearly answered. thank you!
Thanks!
Thank you! 🙏🏻
Love the build. No complaints. I do have something to say about the glue though. Obviously gluing makes a stronger, longer lasting joint but I think it's more applicable to stand alone pieces. I've built tons of cabinets. Including building kitchens and I've found that I like to just screw the cabinets together. Once they're screwed to the walls and each other, they're not coming apart. How strong does something need to be? At some point it's just redundant. By not glueing, it's gives you the ability to take them apart if you made any errors (which will 100% happen) without destroying the panels. It's been a live saver at times being able to disassemble a cabinet effortlessly, make the cuts/adjustments etc. and reassemble. Just food for thought. In this case, a stand alone cabinet is probably just fine to glue up as most likely the measurements are spit on and less convoluted. Nice job sir👊
I would agree with you about not gluing in most cases! I have made errors before and after you glue something it’s near impossible to fix! Thanks for the feedback 🤙🏼
Great stuff! Im building a Skoolie into a RV and this procedure is perfect(or good enuff for a Skoolie). That Poplar is pretty enuff to just stain/seal IMHO. One thing: @26:35 you are setting up to the outside of the blade-for some new woodworkers, the teeth on the blade are offset, so measure to the correct tooth!
Awesome build, I'm currently building a coffee bar for my wife and built my very first set of base cabinets. I have a little job site table saw so all my joinery is pocket holes. Hoping to be finished with it by Christmas. Keep the videos coming man, excellent work and love your attention to detail explaining what you're doing and why.
Thanks for the positive feedback 👍🏻 and good luck!
That was AWESOME!!! Great little tips and simple jigs you made that would make the door and drawer installs MAJORLY easier (AND accurate) ! Loved it.
From one Carolina woodworker to another…good job and Go Pack! 🐺🐺
Thanks! And yes go pack 👍🏻
I really like how you break down your plywood with the Sheetrock square and trac saw but if I wanted to use just the trac saw cross cut the side of the base cabinets to height I could do that ?
Nicely made cabinet that anyone would be proud to own.
Great job. Thanks for showing how you set your saws. I noticed you did not use a push stick all the time. Please take the time to think about your fingers.
Thank you for making this video. Very nice work. 👌
Really good instructional! Keep doing it like that.
I'm fixing to build all my own cabinets your series will help me soooo much ! Mine will be oak with stain and poly ! If you don't have a series in staining and poly with the proper sanding leading up to please make one if you do please link it to me ! Ty so much new subscriber
Wonder if you have a design setup for an outfeed table for a portable dewalt table saw
Do you use 1/4 inch plywood for the backs of kitchen cabinets
Love your videos helpful
Nice to see the safety specs! I kept my end and subscribed. Keep up the good work!
Me, too!
I'll join in with a "Me, too!", also.
All members of the me2 movement no doubt
Looking forward to learning! HAHAHA Sweet Brown!
thanks for the share it is good to see how others build things
Loving these videos thanks for sharing
Loved your use of cattywampus.Southern boy for sure. I’m fixin to subscribe off of that alone.
Haha thanks and I appreciate you subscribing 👍🏻
Another Great Build! Keep them coming!
These are great love all the information and details!
Wow. That was super helpful. Thank you.
😉hey look, he can move his hand out of the way when setting the blade height (lol, camera is still in same place as other video, just this time you moved your hand😁). Dude, LOVE your videos. Just found them two days ago and they are even better than BourbonMoth. Keep 'em coming!
Wow thanks for the positive feedback I really appreciate it 👍🏻
I really like how you built this and all your videos. Ok I'm building this cabinet for my gun room I want to put a hidden compartment under the counter top. I want it to have a hidden release and the top to tilt up like a door. How would you do this or can you make a video on how to do this.
If you haven’t figured this out yet, Matthew Peech has several videos covering a variety of pieces of furniture and wall hangings like coat racks and floating shelves.
I wish you had commented on the difference between airless and HVLP and why you use which one for what. I am assuming you use the airless because you choose the enamel instead of lacquer for the finish coat. Why do you prefer each product for what application. Thank you for all the information!!
You’re using a 40 tooth blade for all this plywood? It looks like you’re getting really nice cuts.
I've been building for over 40 years. I'd listen to this young man. Great tutorials and content.
Thank you sir 👍🏼
So when you're doing an overlay style door like that, you probably have to know what type of hinge and how much overlay it calls for before building your doors? I'm thinking about building new doors for my existing cabinets and I don't really know what I'm doing hinge wise. I feel like it's probably best I just reuse the current ones so I can just use the exact dimensions of the current door, but I also like the tighter gaps you have here.
Yes that’s correct it’s best to know the hinge specs before building your doors. And it really depends on the face frame whether or not you can get the right gaps on existing cabinets. You can always buy different size overlays to make it work but sometimes it doesn’t always work. Hope this helps if you have any more questions you can email me and I’ll try to explain better 👍🏻
Great job man!
Great video, thank you @eastcarolinawoodworks ! What specific dado blade are you using or recommend? It's not included in your description. I plan to build some cabinets as personal projects and don't want to invest $400 in a dado blade set but I don't mind spending $100-$200 on a dado blade. Hope to hear your thoughts!
Thanks for the great feedback! Honestly I use the $99 set from dewalt at lowes and have had wonderful results! Been my go to for the past few years 🤙🏼
So, I use a Ryobi compound Miter saw... Should I use that or just trust the factory edge?
Love your videos!
Question, what kind of jigsaw blades do you use to avoid tear out? Thanks
Honestly it’s just a fine tooth baked by craftsman I think. There’s still little tear out but very minimal! Hope this helps 👍🏻
Use a down cut type,cheers.
That was awesome!!! great Job ! Thanks
That looks like a high quality table saw. Can you say the make and model??
It’s the Harvey 4hp 36” dovetail Tablesaw and it’s a beast!
Great cabinet video series! Very helpful in my own build even though I'm doing wall shelves. Wondering how tight the gap between each door should be? Obviously I don't want an interference fit, but I don't want a huge gap either. Trying to get my cabinet doors fitting this tight!
I typically try to get about 1/16th plus with the hinge adjustability it helps with wood movement 👍🏻
Great build. Question on face frame pocket hole settings and screw lengths. How thick is your face frame? What size screws did you use to secure the face frame to the cabinet? What setting did you have the Kreg jig set to for drilling the pocket holes? What did you set the drill bit stopper to?
Face frame is 3/4” thick. Screw size is 1 1/4” in length. Kreg jig is set to 3/4” thick material. The jig has setting to set the depth for drilling the pocket hole. Hope this helps 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Yes, that’s perfect. Thank you.
@@basha9482Missing info is that the length of the screw is dictated by the thickness of the material you are attaching the pocket holed panel/part too. So pocket hole settings are dictated by the material the pocket hole is being drilled in and the screw length (and type) is dictated by thickness of the material you are attaching to. Kreg has a tool on their site for determining what each should be or there are charts available also.
Very nice job bub!
Just trying to spread knowledge!
@@eastcarolinawoodworks you do a great job of it too, i know im learning alot for sure. I mustve missed the Kreg entry video so imma go watch that too
A tip-out tray could be a nice addition to the false drawer the next time you build a vanity.
I’ve done them before but this particular customer just wanted the false front, but good idea for others wanting a little more storage 👍🏻
If you call it a ‘secret angle out drawer’ it will sell verses false front. Everyone loves secret stuff
That is quite a fence setup. Any chance of a short video explaining what and why?
What fence are you referring too?
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Your table saw fence. It looks like quite a contraption you've put together.
You channel is awesome.
Can you please build an inset kitchen cabinet? ❤
I literally just bought the hardware so I can do a video on inset 👍🏻 it’s coming real soon!
Sorry, one more tip for everyone. When I build shaker doors/drawer panels, I put a small champfer on the egde of all the rail and stile joints. Especially if you're painting it. Guaranteed the paint will separate between those joints in time and you will see a line. Unless someone else knows about a paint that I'm not aware of that doesn't do that....let me know. But in any case, the champfer, I think, actually adds a nice touch to the look and will be straight as an arrow, eliminating the paint crack situation.
Great build.
Quick question - What is attached to your fence? Not the Jessem’s holders but the silver extruded aluminum?
That’s the fence itself. I have a Harvey table saw and that’s the fence that comes with it! 👍🏻
Oh wow.. I wouldn't have thought that at all. it looks like a completely separate add-on..
Great videos man. Keep ‘em coming! I’m up the road from you a little bit and wondering where you get your materials from?
Thanks for the positive feedback! I get my sheet goods from a place in Raleigh called Wurth!
Great video. Cheers 👍🏼
When you rough cut, how much extra do you cut? Just the width of the T square?
Normally 1/2-1 inch 👍🏻
How are you liking yourJessEm 04301 Clear-Cut TS Stock Guides. Only having the uses of 1 hand I have been thinking about getting a set. I have been doing a lot of cabinets lately and from what I have seen and heard they could be a great addition to my saw
Yes they are great for breaking down plywood! if i was building custom furniture at different thicknesses all the time I would hate having to adjust all the time but since 90% of my work is cabinets i set it and forget it! LOVE IT!
With MDF door panels you can just glue everything right?
Yep mdf doesn’t expand so your all good there 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks thanks for the reply!
Eyeball question here, but what kind of watch is that that you’re wearing?
Gshock 👍🏻
Thank you brother👍👍👍👍
Great video! Are you a 3/4” or 1/2” pipe clamp? Thanks
I’ve got a few 3/4 but 48” and smaller I just do 1/2
What do you do to finish the exposed edges of the cabinet sides in the toe kick? Thanks!
I do a separate 1/4” thick toe kick I paint separate and attach after install. Finished ends I just paint unless client wants it finished to match doors. Hope this helps 👍🏻
Great video!! Thanks
Well done. Thank you.
What size kreg screws do you use for the cabinets as well as face frame?
Missing info is that the length of the screw is dictated by the thickness of the material you are attaching the pocket holed panel/part too. So pocket hole settings are dictated by the material the pocket hole is being drilled in and the screw length (and type) is dictated by thickness of the material you are attaching to. Kreg has a tool on their site for determining what each should be or there are charts available also.
Why don't you use pocket holes to secure the bottom of the cabinet instead of countersunk screws from the outside?
Could you do a video on how to build drawer in a corner instead of using a lazy Susan? That would be awesome!
It would be awesome! If it was geometrically and physically possible. Greate idea though!
Aesthetics considered, I assume pocket holes from the outside of cabinet only acceptable if you plan to paint or put veneer over it? Can’t imagine plugs in pocket holes yielding visually pleasing results.
edit: about to undertake my first cabinet build.
I only apply pocket holes to the outside if the cabinet will be sandwiched between cabinets or it gets a finished end 🤙🏼
Brother where can i find the t square your using to break down sheets?
Came from lowes! Most big box stores will have them 👍🏻
What is the brand of the red right angle clamps you used to square up the sides? I don't see listed above.
Link in description, but the brand is called Hardell
@@eastcarolinawoodworks i dont think its there, mustve missed 1. Looking for some right angle panel clamps myself
@@philmurphy7487 it’s there! Near the bottom called Hardell 90 degree clamps!
What are you using on the sides to cover up the pocket holes?
I don’t cover them up if the cabinet is in between other cabinets. If the side is exposed I move the pocket holes to the inside of the cabinet 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks
That must look awesome if you have glass doors. Lol
@@kubota33 glass door cabinets I do differently. I glue and pin nail the face frame on. Whole cabinet gets painted anyway so it’s just easier to finish the cabinet completely assembled 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks
Oh I see. I thought you were doing clear coat inside. And paint outside.
Why not use white melamine?
So many different ways to do things.
I still dont understand why you dont use full backs. Less work, more strength. Better way to use off cuts.
You can put a screw anywhere you want. :)
You make good videos
Thanks
hooah from Vboro, ECW great vids
Nice and thank you!
Cattywampus!! Nice
Where do you find the 1/4 inch mdf for the center panels??
I get them from a building supplier. You can find 2x4 sheets at Home Depot 👍🏻
What size screws, and what grit sandpaper?
I use 150 grit sandpaper and what screws are you referring to?
Yes
We'd more contents sir love your videos
Working on more videos as we speak! Trying to balance a full time job and RUclips is a learning curve lol
Me: Mom, can we get some Bourbon Moth?
Mom: No, we have Bourbon Moth at home.
Safety first. You should be using push sticks for the smaller stuff.
What is this, mom? You're going by darlinbrady now?
how do you figure out your pricing for a cabinet?
There’s a lot of variables but I start with linear feet 👍🏻
Super like your channel
thank you- unusuall job, all the best- ;)
Dammit I keep having to start over. Every time a wicked guitar rip comes on I shred the air guitar for the rest of the video.
Hahah too funny 👍🏻 be careful we all want to be big rockstars “nickelback voice”
@@eastcarolinawoodworks And we'll hang out in the coolest bars
In the V.I.P. with the movie stars
Every good gold digger's gonna wind up there
Every Playboy Bunny with her bleached blond hair and, well
How do you do your shelves inside the cabinets?
What exactly are you asking? How do I drill holes? How do I make the shelves?
@East Carolina Woodworks more how to you drill the line of holes for the little shelf holders.
Cabinets can display anything. Nobody but nobody addresses the issue of shop dust covering the French cleat items. Cabinets with sliding doors will solve the problem. No back to cabinet. Hand French cleat items in cabinet. Use lexan panel for visibility. Your thoughts. Better yet build one and make the video!!!! Thx Bruce. Cleats and Cabinets ( sort of like root beer and ice !)
U said u cut your face frames to an inch and a half and then use inch and a quarter hinges for a half inch reveal? Did u mean a quarter inch reveal?
Nice to see a pro make a rookie mistake and admit it. I have done the same thing .
Mistakes make you better and helps to show others you don’t have to be perfect 👍🏻
Are you pronouncing height (a word ending in a “T”) as high-th?
Danny Proulx would have had this cabinet built before the 10 am coffee break!
Good for him (heater)
@@isaacquinterolinares8529
Heater? Wtf
I’ve got a problem for you. I’m putting a kitchen in a 150 year farmhouse with hardwood floors throughout. The kitchen is 13’ long. In that space, the floor drops 3”. The engineer says it’s structurally sound, so my husband doesn’t want to take out then floor. I can put in a graduated toe kick, but that’s going to make the counter height at the end 39”. I’m 4’11”…a 39” tall counter is going to really, really tall for me. Now what?
Jack up the house it’s just sitting on piers if that old. A couple 20 ton bottle jacks from harbor freight and some wedges and all good. Just go slow with your movements up. Those old houses were not secured to the piers like a new house. The main beams are just sitting on top of the pier. Wedge it from each side of the beam after it gets level or close to it on the inside. Takes 2 people to do it but it’s simple. One in the house with the level and one underneath.
Am I seeing things? When you cut the tie kick; in one shot you cut to the bottom of the dado. In the next shot; it appears to me you made new side panels. I say that because in the second shot the toe kick isn't cut to the dado.
I’d have to go back and look. I was making several cabinet parts that day since all my stuff was set up so it is possible. I was mainly trying to show how you could build the cabinet in one day but I was also making other cabinets in the mix 👍🏻
How nice to be young and strong ? At 69 i cannot pick up a sheet of three quarter ply anymore, i swear they are using heavier glue in it these days ?
They are heavy lol so I guess I’ll do it while I’m still young 😎
Made a cabinet out of birch ply. During glue up , had drips on inside which i didnt notice until next day …grrr. Anyways didnt want too have too paint cabinet ,,what is the easiest way to get glue off so i can stain…was worried that sanding would go through veneer ..thanks ray
No sponsor.? I’ll sponsor one of your videos. I don’t make tools, but since I’m also in Jackson aka East Carolina -Ask A Genius
I’m confused what you mean?
@@eastcarolinawoodworks in your video you mentioned no one was sponsoring your video. Well I will sponsor one. I’m not a tool maker ex. This video is sponsored by Milwaukee Tools. Well I don’t make tools but I am associated with ‘Ask A Genius’ I was impressed with your layout and explanation of cutting lengths with appropriate diagram so what does it take to sponsor one of your videos.
@@AskAGenius my email is in the “about” section on my channel page. Email me there and we can discuss further. Thanks 👍🏻
I love you doing it this way. The other way is confusing and hard to follow.
Even though you have a high speed dust collection system, you may consider wearing a fine matter respirator… don’t want to have lung issues later!
Nice job. Love the "BooBoo's". Anybody who says he doesn't make mistakes building cabinets is lying.
You got that right! 👍🏻
I'm doing a small double drawer unit and forgot to mill the maple drawer box parts to 5/8" to fit the undermount slides. Now I'm kicking myself as I try to thin up the sides (no need for the front or back). My jointer is only a 6", and these drawers are 7 1/4" tall, so that was out. If maple wasn't so damn expensive in New England right now (and maybe everywhere), I'd cut these up, put the maple to use later, and just start over. Of course, they are dovetailed too, so either way, it's labor. Grrrrrrr.
@@mvlaubach you can remove the guard on your jointer and do the 6" you can then run it through planer with a simple jig... I think on learned that trick from Next Level Carpentry channel
Just be sure the granite or stone will be 2” profile as many stones for countertops come in thinner thickness than 2” and I’m sure you probably know that so why and I typing instead of watching 😮😂
I wish someone would do a stuper simple build with only like a skill saw and a drill............alls i has.. lol
Basically an Amazon video
I really like those hold down wheels on your table saw until I looked up the price.... yikes lol
Yea they are pricey but prevent kickback and helps keep your pieces tight against your fence! Took me a long time to buy because of the price but finally pulled the trigger and I love them 😎
@@eastcarolinawoodworks I think I'll build some, they're really not that complex... a couple of bearings for wheels... or I'll borrow the ones from my offset printing press lol
No bueno !! Choice to be muy bueno😂
Dado's too tight, REMOVE a shim, not add one... Im sure you just mis spoke as you seem to really know your way around the shop. YOU DA MAN!
OOPS, My bad, you were right, add a shim if they are too tight. Ive been away from the woodshop for 10 yrs, just getting back going.... My bad
Watch Matlock on your own time. Lol
Since everyone loves sanding so much, it’s far more faster to just sand blast your adult legos before assembly. Saves tons of time.
Will my butt look like that in those pants? I already have enough girl issues at work already!!!
You can build more than one of these in a whole day