I love how you drop more things we need, on the final step of the process. Additional tools/materials required, which aren't disclosed at the start: 3 additional M3 screws of an undisclosed length and some nuts (disclosed at 2:08), something to press-fit the nuts into the adapter (2:42), calipers with a depth probe (3:18), angle cutters that can cut PTFE tubes cleanly (3:58), and most importantly an extended stepper motor wire (4:37). Odds are you'll have all the hardware, but who has an extension for the stepper motor just laying around? So, if you follow this step by step without pre-watching it, you're fucked as soon as you get to this point - You've cut your tubing, you've rearranged the hardware, and you think you're all done. And then bam, you need additional wiring.
You gained another subscriber. Greetings from a fellow 3d printing nerd, in Ohio. I really appreciate your plain-spoken, easy to follow nature. This really comes thru in your video. Great job! 👍🏻
Thanks you. I’ll do another video to show where you can place the filament spool and runout sensor. But in the meantime… Get an 3 pin jst extension amzn.to/43D9Mh6 Disconnect the outside wire. You’ll see which ones connect when you attach the extension to the existing wire coming from the filament runout sensor. If you don’t already have one, purchase a top attached filament spool and attach it to the top of your printer with t-nuts and screws. amzn.to/3Tus3IK If you know how to design in CAD programs, you’ll need to design a model the filament runout sensor can attach to at the top. (If not, give me until Monday and I will design one for you. Just email me at info@jedovishop.com so I have your email.) After that you should be good to go. I’ll do a tutorial for this process next week
No problem. I noticed more of a speed difference than actual print quality. The retraction settings went down from 6.5 to around 1.2 so I was able to kick the print speed up a bit more
When you converted to the Hero Me system, did you have to do anything to make those fans work with the stock board? I tried using the same fans you have on yours, but I ended up having to go back to stock fans because I couldn't get the new ones to turn on, even using the M106 command. Did you need to change something in the firmware to make those fans work? Thanks!
Initially I was using the standard Marlin firmware and they worked fine, but they only ran on 100% fan speed. Anything less than 100%, they would shut off. When I switched to Klipper firmware, I didn’t have that issue anymore. When I did my research about this issue, I found out that you have to install PWM 5015 fans instead of standard 5015 fans in order to adjust fan speed in marlin. If your fans aren’t working at all, check your connections for loose or broken wires
Hey, I have a kobra max too!! with the Hero Me Gen 7 , there are a lot of parts... can you please comment the parts you used for this project? thank you :)
Hopefully you see this post (Second time posting it) My only question is this? Does this affect the Z height of how far you can print something larger? (i.e...Doesn't it hit the top bar/track because of its setup?)
My only question is this? Does this affect the Z height of how far you can print something larger? (i.e...Doesn't it hit the top bar/track because of its setup?)
I’m a true believer in “If it’s not broke, don’t fix it.” But a direct drive allows you to move filament into the nozzles at a faster and more accurate rate. You can print slightly faster, but it also makes it easier to print softer filaments like TPU
@@JeDoVi3D to say that in the old days, we said that the bowden was made for faster speeds lol... what makes the speed today I think is the speed of the new motor and motherboard... but hey...
Your right. Because it takes the extra weight off of the hotend, but the retraction time comes down and is more precise which helps the overall quality not speed of the print. My apologies
@@JeDoVi3D I understand. you are in direct drive now how fast do you print? my next one will be a bambulab but I'm waiting for a bigger tray to come out
I’m only printing at 125 mm/s with a 1800 mm/s acceleration. I am waiting for PCBway to send me a custom part and I am going to add linear rails on the Y and X axis to try and boost the speed a little more. Because of the size of the build plate, any acceleration higher than 2200 causes the printer to skip steps. But the printer is performing a lot better as far as flow and detail
I also have a question about the extruder cable. Did you have to modify the longer cable you bought and linked? When I connect the stepper motor with the extended cable, the motor just vibrates and does not turn. TIA!
@@JeDoVi3D Thanks for replying. The stepper motor works as expected with the original cable, but when I used the cable you link to on Amazon, it acts erratically. I see now that the original cable has a 1 to 1 match between the start and end wire sequence, whereas the Amazon cable switches up the order of the wires between the start and end sequence. The stepper side sequence of wires is red/black/blue/green across 4 of the 6 positions, but the other side of the cable is red/blue/green/black. In short, this is not the right cable. Did you cut it and modify it to match the original cable? Thanks!
How do you like your heavily modded Kobra Max? I've been looking around for a large format printer for a while and the Neptune 3 Max looked better on paper, but most people with it I've seen hated how unreliable and finicky it was
I love it. I’ve recently made some major changes and will be putting out a video soon. It’s totally revamped now and printing waaayyyy better than before
You have to adjust your E-Steps. Check out this video. It has great information for marlin and Klipper ruclips.net/video/ZfBOijl0Kd0/видео.htmlsi=KGhmygekf6rcBxGg
hopefully you see this comment, trying to do the direct drive but I don't know which cable extender to use, the one you have through your link is not the same as in the video, just worried it will burn the printer
I love how you drop more things we need, on the final step of the process.
Additional tools/materials required, which aren't disclosed at the start: 3 additional M3 screws of an undisclosed length and some nuts (disclosed at 2:08), something to press-fit the nuts into the adapter (2:42), calipers with a depth probe (3:18), angle cutters that can cut PTFE tubes cleanly (3:58), and most importantly an extended stepper motor wire (4:37).
Odds are you'll have all the hardware, but who has an extension for the stepper motor just laying around? So, if you follow this step by step without pre-watching it, you're fucked as soon as you get to this point - You've cut your tubing, you've rearranged the hardware, and you think you're all done. And then bam, you need additional wiring.
My apologies for the misdirection. I’ll change the description to include those items Pre-watch. Thanks for bringing it to my attention
You gained another subscriber. Greetings from a fellow 3d printing nerd, in Ohio. I really appreciate your plain-spoken, easy to follow nature. This really comes thru in your video. Great job! 👍🏻
Thank you so much. I’m glad you appreciate it ❤️🙏🏾
Smooth Printer info over a sick beat. Nice
Thank you! I made the beat too
Nice work, great to see others improving the kobra max this got me set on my reviews channem
Nive video and details, many thanks ... i'm just wondering after this modification where and how placing the filament sensor ?👍
Thanks you. I’ll do another video to show where you can place the filament spool and runout sensor. But in the meantime…
Get an 3 pin jst extension amzn.to/43D9Mh6
Disconnect the outside wire. You’ll see which ones connect when you attach the extension to the existing wire coming from the filament runout sensor.
If you don’t already have one, purchase a top attached filament spool and attach it to the top of your printer with t-nuts and screws. amzn.to/3Tus3IK
If you know how to design in CAD programs, you’ll need to design a model the filament runout sensor can attach to at the top. (If not, give me until Monday and I will design one for you. Just email me at info@jedovishop.com so I have your email.)
After that you should be good to go. I’ll do a tutorial for this process next week
Hey thanks for the video, it helped me convert my Kobra Max to direct drive
Thank you for watching. I’m glad it helped
thx, I was searching for a tutorial like this for my kobra 3. Btw, did you notice a print quality improvement after this mod?
No problem. I noticed more of a speed difference than actual print quality. The retraction settings went down from 6.5 to around 1.2 so I was able to kick the print speed up a bit more
When you converted to the Hero Me system, did you have to do anything to make those fans work with the stock board? I tried using the same fans you have on yours, but I ended up having to go back to stock fans because I couldn't get the new ones to turn on, even using the M106 command. Did you need to change something in the firmware to make those fans work? Thanks!
Initially I was using the standard Marlin firmware and they worked fine, but they only ran on 100% fan speed. Anything less than 100%, they would shut off. When I switched to Klipper firmware, I didn’t have that issue anymore. When I did my research about this issue, I found out that you have to install PWM 5015 fans instead of standard 5015 fans in order to adjust fan speed in marlin. If your fans aren’t working at all, check your connections for loose or broken wires
Thanks, friend!
Hey, I have a kobra max too!! with the Hero Me Gen 7 , there are a lot of parts... can you please comment the parts you used for this project? thank you :)
Hopefully you see this post (Second time posting it) My only question is this? Does this affect the Z height of how far you can print something larger? (i.e...Doesn't it hit the top bar/track because of its setup?)
My only question is this? Does this affect the Z height of how far you can print something larger? (i.e...Doesn't it hit the top bar/track because of its setup?)
Do you think it would be virtually the same for a Kobra plus?
Also awesome video regardless, so informative
I'm not sure if the plus has the same X axis Plate. I would have to check. Thank you for your words about our videos. We definitely appreciate it
my kobra max printer already very good without defects, what is the advantage of switching to direct drive?
I’m a true believer in “If it’s not broke, don’t fix it.” But a direct drive allows you to move filament into the nozzles at a faster and more accurate rate. You can print slightly faster, but it also makes it easier to print softer filaments like TPU
@@JeDoVi3D to say that in the old days, we said that the bowden was made for faster speeds lol... what makes the speed today I think is the speed of the new motor and motherboard... but hey...
Your right. Because it takes the extra weight off of the hotend, but the retraction time comes down and is more precise which helps the overall quality not speed of the print. My apologies
@@JeDoVi3D I understand. you are in direct drive now how fast do you print? my next one will be a bambulab but I'm waiting for a bigger tray to come out
I’m only printing at 125 mm/s with a 1800 mm/s acceleration. I am waiting for PCBway to send me a custom part and I am going to add linear rails on the Y and X axis to try and boost the speed a little more. Because of the size of the build plate, any acceleration higher than 2200 causes the printer to skip steps. But the printer is performing a lot better as far as flow and detail
Was pumped to do this to find out my print head plate on my Kobra max is different and doesn’t fit any direct drive adapter I’ve found :(
Troy’s adapter didn’t fit?
I also have a question about the extruder cable. Did you have to modify the longer cable you bought and linked? When I connect the stepper motor with the extended cable, the motor just vibrates and does not turn. TIA!
I just extended the cable. How does the cable react when you attach the original cable?
@@JeDoVi3D Thanks for replying. The stepper motor works as expected with the original cable, but when I used the cable you link to on Amazon, it acts erratically. I see now that the original cable has a 1 to 1 match between the start and end wire sequence, whereas the Amazon cable switches up the order of the wires between the start and end sequence. The stepper side sequence of wires is red/black/blue/green across 4 of the 6 positions, but the other side of the cable is red/blue/green/black. In short, this is not the right cable. Did you cut it and modify it to match the original cable? Thanks!
What hotend are you currently working with?
the Revo E3D quick change
I found this video very interesting. Would it be possible for you to give a 3d modeling tutorial?
No problem. What did you have in mind?
@@JeDoVi3D Whatever you want! I just want to see your process.
Of course. We want to create a Jedovi stamp. I’ll do a tutorial from the 3D Modeling to the printing
@@JeDoVi3D Ok, thank you.
How do you like your heavily modded Kobra Max? I've been looking around for a large format printer for a while and the Neptune 3 Max looked better on paper, but most people with it I've seen hated how unreliable and finicky it was
I love it. I’ve recently made some major changes and will be putting out a video soon. It’s totally revamped now and printing waaayyyy better than before
Is this a kobra 2 max? If not, would it be a different process?
I’m pretty the Kobra max 2 is already a direct drive
How do you adjust the filament loading distance to this configuration?
You have to adjust your E-Steps. Check out this video. It has great information for marlin and Klipper ruclips.net/video/ZfBOijl0Kd0/видео.htmlsi=KGhmygekf6rcBxGg
hopefully you see this comment, trying to do the direct drive but I don't know which cable extender to use, the one you have through your link is not the same as in the video, just worried it will burn the printer
Are you talking about the filament runout sensor wire?
I beg you can you please make more kobra max upgrade videos?
Definitely. I commented on your other comment. But we got you!
What size nuts were pressed into the adapter? Length of bolts?
M3 nuts and M3x8 bolts. You can longer if need be
@@JeDoVi3D Awesome thank you!
Did you have to remove the bottom ring from around the hotend/heat sink to install the hero me setup?
🙄 'promosm'