Hi, great build! You might have some issues with vibration of your print tables. Even partial mm of vibrations will impact build quality. The Bambu Labs X1 Carbon has input shaping that might trim this effect, but I would make my table very rigid and firmly planted. Hope this is constructive, big fan.
Hi Adam! I would love if you could elaborate a little on your 9/11 mythbusting episodes, I found those episodes you made dumbfounding. You taught millions of people that you can't cut even thin steel sheet with thermite, I believed you for DECADES, I believed that it was a silly idea that Thermite could cut steel beams... You lied to me, you made me and the entire world dumber. Why??? Was it something you were told to do? Did you simply not know how to work with thermites for cutting metals? Explosives grade thermite (nano thermite compound that could not possibly occour naturally in the collision) was found at the WTC site btw. Molten bright glowing steel flowed from one of the corners of the building prior to collapse. Firefighters reported a series of controlled explosions (What NIST describes as "dust puffs"). I just want to know how much extra you got paid for playing a fool that episode?
Adam, I setup drying rods that are used in sealed weapon safes (to be YT friendly, pew-pews). These simply plug into any wall outlet and have been used for years to manage humidity and keep things from rusting. I live in Louisiana which is a geographical twin to Vietnam with Heat & 80%+ Humidity and the rods work great. They’re easily mountable and the diameter is typically 1/2-3/4 inch. That’s what I’ve been using in my custom built filament dry box for the last few years. Also they’re usually $15-$20 and last forever.
yeah holy shit why didnt i get one of these earlier... can build so many things, now if only i could find space for a bigger one or more...and the new generation of hyper speedy ones.... yep its an addiction that wont kill you and makes cool stuff :)
How about that last moment when Adam stuck his head in to inspect the current print? Just watching the printer work, inspecting the extruded layers for quality, and just admiring the print in progress. Such a familiar experience.
Adam has taught this trick in the past, but it still takes a good deal of experience to actually execute this trick as well as Adam does. He has many years of experience building props, including at ILM. On some of those jobs, he had to do this kind of thing many times a day during some of his builds, just to get the job done in the timeframe required.
Tip for those who want to cut Acrylic on your table saw. Go to your local big box hardware store and grab a 7.25" Vinyl siding blade for your saw. Now I know what you are thinking, "That is the wrong size blade for my saw". Yes, yes it is. The 7.25" blade will run slower, and the vinyl siding blade has low slope teeth on it that will not chip out the acrylic. Even on thinner pieces. Combine this with Step bit drill bits and you are an acrylic manipulating monster. Also, dish soap on the bits work wonders. If you don't have a step bit (GET ONE or MANY) you can sharpen an old drill bit to a point on the grinder. Use a slow speed when drilling with the dish soap as lube. Perfect cuts and holes every time! And Adam, why build the second box? I ran spool trollies (roller bases that the reels sit on) in my dry box (Which I built AFTER seeing yours) and have PTFE feeds running out through the Dry box up to my two printers. Works perfectly. My filament literally never leaves my dry box. Video will be up on my channel shortly.
When you say 'step bit' I think you mean what some engineers call a 'Pilot Bit' which has two cutting diameters, A small 1cm(ish) deep thinner starter tip and a thicker bit. Think of it like having two drill bits in one; A small starter bit and the actual size you want-to-drill bit all in one.
@@penfold7800 Not the actual purpose of those bits even if they are often times used to start a hole (but not actually drill them completly since they only have cutting edges on the tip). They are for running live centers on the lathe for Starting a hole there are actually other bits (NC Bits).
Fascinating to me that you can work on the case WHILE THE PRINTER IS PRINTING. I'd have been rather nervous about messing up the print. Thanx... and what fun to be adding more printing capability in the shop. WOW! 🌻
He could literally pause the print, take out the filament, put it in the new box and then continue on with that printer. I do it on my Creality 10s Pro V2 all the time. In fact, in some of my printing, it's required.
Big word of advice for your 3D printers, Put them on really solid sturdy surfaces, I can see your anycubic is wobbling a lot. That would show up as echos or ghosts as the whole structure is vibrating. Thicken up the legs, put in corner brackets and if its on wheels, swap it for wheels that can switch to feet.
You do want a sturdy surface but you minimize ghosting and ringing with anti vibration feet not by solidifying the frame. That would increase the ghosting and ringing effect.
Putting a concrete paver under the printer would go a long way. It'd increase the inertia of the cart, and require a lot more force from the printer before it would start shaking.
I know how you feel Adam. I was like this when I first got a 3D printer into my electronics lab. It's been 6 years since, but it's essential for bridging the gap between components, projects and it's so beautifully practical too, whenever I need a part, or want to put things that doesn't otherwise fit together, a few minutes in Blender, then a Slicer - an voila - magic!
I cant stop looking through your shop in the background. Its like an iSPY book. so many interesting things. Makes me want to save up to try and get a workspace. So many projects could happen at the same time. I love it.
Thank you for all you do. I read your book "Every tool is a hammer" and it resonated with me. I have more fun watching you make stuff and work in your cave. I am a maker, not anywhere near your talent or experience level, but your phrase "Serial Skill Collector" defines who I am. Thank you for sharing your talent and experience.
I finally upgraded to the same printer and It has revolutionized my prototyping and building process. I now 3D print half the things I used to buy from the hardware store.
I very much appreciate that 'mentat mode' label. The little bits of humor included in your videos bring each project their own vibe of creativity and accomplishment.
I got into 3D printing because I teach creative technologies to 7th graders and it's part of the curriculum. What a time to be alive! I don't think any of my other co-teachers would have the same passion for this as me. I have always wanted to be like Adam Savage since I was a kid watching Mythbusters.
I've just started 3D printing as well with a small Kingroon KP3s, and immediately dove down the vortex of "how can I make this thing even better?". So far I'm on a Volcano hotend, printed modifications for a 12cm fan in the PSU, installed a mosfet board for the heated bed, Have a BTT Pi V1.2 so I can run Klipper over the network, and now I'm drawing up an enclosure for it with activated carbon sheets lining the walls to absorb noise/smells and improve print quality. It's awesome to see people like Adam who are as giddy and excited about stuff like this!
I really appreciate you guys over at Tested. The fact that Adam is willing to design, build, and even show his mistakes to the world without any hesitation is what inspires me to make and build myself. Thanks for the years of content!
Man , Adam I love to watch you work on these small projects . It’s so satisfying to watch because I’ve started doing these kind of things myself as well for my major at school . Keep it up man , big love 🫶
Loved Mythbusters so much growing up and now getting a second chance watch Adam build stuff. The 3D printing scene is amazing, it's never done! This is going to help you so much to make your idea's reality fairly easy! Thanks for the making content again!
Love the calculating noises with the mental (edit: *mentat* - google auto-corrected) mode. Also - I liked that we got to follow you more as you walked around the shop - it was fun to see the sections dedicated to certain functions as well as all the collected props and goodies on display!
I had had a Kobra Max for a while now, and it has been a great printer. I had a screen issue at first, but the support from the company was good and shipped me another screen, took about a week. I just used the printer USB'd to the PC in the meantime. Have been quite happy with it, a nice upgrade from my smaller machines.
Adam, seeing you mentally build the dry box and adding the dimensions blows me away. That is something I simply cannot do. I need to draw everything out to truly get it in my mind's eye.
The mechanical calculator scene had me in stitches. Made my morning! Thanks for that. I have 4 printers. I have 3 in 1 room and 1 is a brick in the garage for parts. I thought about an enclosure and I have the tent for my CR10 bookmarked but I haven't bought it. Oh, and the tent has clear panels so you can look through it. The biggest reasons for an enclosure is to retain heat and to prevent wind from suddenly cooling the part or bed and popping it off. Been there, done that too many times! The plastic is a bit overmuch. Cool though!
I'm glad you got into 3d printing. It is an amazing hobby and tool. I now have 3 printers and want more. I can't wait to see more content about 3d printing.
I think the thing I like the most about these videos is to watch all the different tools in use but more importantly the logical process through which these designs come to fruition. It's well thought out but as it comes together new challenges need to be addressed. Just fascinating.
42:40 ... Anyone with 3D printer knows that "blackout". You are doing stuff and just stop and stare at the running printer :D He truly is one of us! Love these videos
When cutting and drilling acrylic, the results are much better when using saw blades and drill bits that are designed for the purpose. When using general purpose blades and bits there's a bunch of cracking and tear out (and often melting). The different angles on these blades and bits makes all the difference in the world.
I’m so happy we can still watch Adam work.. it’s honestly so great! He’s such an incredible engineer/everything and makes me remember my childhood watching mythbusters. Thanks Adam for still being you and showing us your work! ❤
Consider bumping up the nozzle size to say .6mm or .8mm to save time. You could have thicker layers and still maintain quality on large prints. It does use more material, but can sometimes cut down times to a 3rd of total print times and not cut much quality. Try it out in slicer settings and see if its something worth looking into.
Depends what you're doing. You can expect a lot more oozing with 0.6mm+, which in turn will cause blobs, zits, stringing and under-extrusions. Might be OK if you're post-processing anyway, but IMHO the negligible speed increase is not worth the significant decrease in quality and reliability, especially when running a print farm.
@@dsp4392Putting down 4X the material (if you have the heat) is not negligible, and you can get clean results with proper setup just like with any nozzle. Don't blame the tool if you can't get good results.
Pretty sure you have to change out at least the heatbreak. Anycubic is proprietary. Any firmware updates have to be done through a phone app as well i believe. I have one, but haven't installed the app in a burner phone yet. Had I known this was the route anycubic was taking I would have bought something else.
13:50 So I actually did a similar thing for my big FDM printer. I made an enclosure that's not quite airtight, but fairly air resistant. It will serve mainly as a protector from dust and random disturbances. But I used signmaking coroplast sheets, and framing of 3/4-in square dowel. Added a couple hinges and a magnet to snap it shut, and it was in business. Not as pretty and you can't see through it, but does a certain job well, I think
Love the enclosure build! If you experience "Heat Creep" and it causes your filliment to clog in the extruder, you may want to add vents to the top for heat to escape. The LEDs will produce heat too.
Dude. I just started running my Kobra Max last night. I can't stop. YOU ARE AN INSPIRATION. YOU ARE THE COOLEST GUY IN THE WORLD. Just my humble opinion.
Rivets in acrylic tend to crack after time. Use a washer on the backside for the rivet to expand against sandwiching the sheet in between the head and washer. Much less stress on the sheet=less cracking.
Nice. I built a similar size enclosure for a cleanroom at work. I use 20x20mm Al extrusion as a frame. And then slotted the polycarbonate sheet into the extrusion notches, so no gluing required .
Be mindful you'll have to either vent it or tweak your print heat settings otherwise it might run a but hot :) My advice would be put a HEPA filter exhaust on it :)
3d print aficionados... "avoid all vibration, don't even touch the table which it's printing, for God's sake". Adam Savage... "pass me my power tools, I'm screwing the shit out of this table, and I'm not waiting for the print to finish"! I love this channel, I hope Adam enjoys this new role as much as I appreciate the content. Best RUclips host period.
Might be worth putting a mechanical fastener into the led strip above the printer. Last thing you want is the tape releasing midway through a multi day print cause the tape glue softened due to the heated enclosure.
To those with smaller shops: You can also buy bigger sheets and use a plastic cutting knife to knock out panels small enough to clean up on your table saw! Theres always options for those of us cursed to work in basements, they just take a bit more work lol
Don't think a "one" day build for a Voron 2 (especially not if your first Voron build) is plausible. I'm closing in on 72 hours into my current Voron (V2.4) and it's my fifth Voron build (2x Trident and 2X V0). I do go slow and meticulous, but anything under about 20 hours isn't likely. That said, I would also LOVE to see Adam do a Voron.
37:10 I have that same latch on my basement door. I've only HAD to make 2 models from scratch, since there is so much stuff, already on the internet, from some awesome people. if need be, I might tweak somebody's model, like I did for that latch. But, it's so nice to be able to search for something and just print it out. Though, it's still fun to just think of something, model it out myself, then print it.
i cant express this enough. change the kobra max to direct drive. get rid of the boden setup. its a printed bracket, and a stepper motor. it will drastically increase the print quality of the printer. best thing i ever did to mine
I am always fascinated by the projects you do and the sheer passion for projects. Though i have enjoyed your antics for years i''m relatively new to Tested and i catch up with all the past episodes as well as current. You have replaced Netflix for me , you are much more entertaining and i actually learn things and am inspired to do, create and be involved in projects now instead of waiting till retirement. In this episode when showing off your printer housing i got a glimpse of your helmets and other stuff in cupboards. You might have done it already but i have not seen it and that is a tour of that wonderful Aladdins cave you have. Kindest regards Steve.
I hope you get tons of fun out of printing, Adam! I'm a 3D modeler and man, getting a 3D printer when you're already decent at 3D is like getting super powers.
On my Ender 3 I upgraded the spool holder to one with a ball bearing. I feel it makes a difference as I had to re-calibrate the E steps once I did the upgrade. Considering how long the bowden tube is on your dry box, you probably should do the same.
If you're willing to commit to keeping the Anycubic printer to the right of the Bambu printers, you could just mount the acrylic filament storage box you built in the top right part of the dehumidified chamber, feeding through the right wall.
I was going to suggest the same thing. Why have the fancy dehumidifier box and not use it?? Of course if you're mostly printing PLA it doesn't really matter.... and if you're going to do ABS, you need ventilation.
@AdamMclardy not quite, he mounted a new box on the side of the dehumidified cabinet, with a small fan cycling the air. It's probably the next best thing, but just mounting the spool inside the cabinet would have been easier and cleaner.
yuuuusss TAP is my go-to. Just wanted to sing their praises. I also wanna say I enjoy the MacGuffins placed in frame; Sometimes past builds and sometimes teases of future build videos. 25:13
I'd have added a peg to the storage box for the filament, thus, no thing else to power. Just run a vacuum tube to the box, install a rotator peg above the stored filament rolls that faces towards the hole and et viola!
You just made a drybox which can only hold a filament spool with the same large diameter hole in the middle. Different brands of filament differ widely.
@geak78 I was thinking the same thing. He has boxes of all the same brand, I think, below the printer. For someone who buy whatever is on sale/is cheapest, the pipe might not work, but maybe a smaller one would, but it wouldn't be as strong to support the filament roll.
02:58. Lol that explains how you know what you have in your workshop and where to find it! Its the first time I have seen the other area and was wondering just this. #mentat Thanks. Laurie NZ. 😊😊😊😊
Adam you can get high static pressure axial fans from Noctua that come in a variety of sizes, if you ran two 1.5" hoses you could probably pump enough dry air in and out to make it work. They're very efficient and quiet with 150,000 hr MTTF reliability.
If you're making an enclosure, I highly recommend against Polycarbonate! Especially if you plan on heating it. If you're dead set on acrylic, go THICK 1/8 is too thin. The heated bed will probably be enough to heat the acrylic to the glass transition temperature. It's only 90°C so it's going to get wobbly around 60-70°C I tried using 1/8" acrylic for my first heated chamber and had to rebuild it almost entirely out of wood.
I have the Anycubic Chiron, which is effectively the predecessor to the Kobra Max. My recommendation for a fairly significant speed boost is to use a larger nozzle than the 0.4mm default. It allows both thicker layers and thicker filament traces (so you need fewer of them for any given wall thickeness). I put a 0.6 on my Chiron.
always love your one day builds, and enclosing a bed slinger is always a challenge. If you end up having to troubleshoot quality issues on the max, may need to look at the filament box/path. My experience has been that printers like VERY free flowing filament, and their printing speed will quickly outpace their pulling in of new plastic on long/windy paths or non-free spinning spools.
Adam, look for ionic membrane dehumidifier cell for the dry boxes. It's a Japanese technology that dehumidifies using a membrane that thru hydrolisis separates O and H. These cells are sold in many different sizes and capacities. Most important things are: much safer (no heat) and efficient (1 to 5 watts). Greetings from Brazil!
I absolutely love these types of videos, makes me inspired to keep filming and building/creating! Love the 3D printing setup as well the X1C and A1 Mini by Bambu Labs look great and I’m really telling myself I don’t need another printer right now….
If storing the filliment is best in the humidity controlled "hot box" is best. And you set up the larger printer to pull from an outside box, why dont you store the spool in the hot box?
I just love how he is making a case to stop the airflow moving the printer whilst its printing and yet he is literally building it while he is printing his hat on the machine, wobbling everywhere lol. Adam we love you
Working on getting my money together to get my first x1. Been selling a bunch of old drum gear and whatnot to try to fund it and a couple ams units to expand my home business. Can’t wait til I can get it!
I have the same printer! I love the things I printed. FYI, change the nozzle to a .06mm from the standard .04 and dial in your settings on the software unless you want to plug in the printer to a computer and do it that way. Great video!
@@marc_frank LOL, believe it or not the standard nozzle when unboxing it is .04 mm. I bought a variety of different sizes. From .02 to 1.0, I feel the sweet number is .06, you still get great detail and faster. Making Helmets, Armor or anything big.. This has been best printer for the job!
@Adam I have always gone with the option of having the Spools above the printer, much like your Bambu does it (that may be why it is so good). This can help reduce print failures as you have gravity working with you when feeding the filament into the print head, basically your printer does not have to work to feed the filament in at all. With the spools below the print head, your printer has to work harder, pulling on the filament and fighting gravity. Just my $0.02
I got this printer a month ago. And just set up yesterday. I gotta say. Light years ahead of the Chiron I had. So much easier to setup. My first print was flawless.
Adam; I too am obsessed. Funny enough, I purchased a Kobra Max for similar reasons, and I then purchased the X1-Carbon. Both are fantastic, but my extruder on my Max died after a month. 😢 Free replacement, though, and they responded fast.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Anycubic Kobra Max: www.anycubic.com/products/kobra-max
3KG PLA Filament: www.matterhackers.com/store/l/black-mh-build-series-pla-filament-175mm-3kg/sk/MPTXV94Y?aff=7553
Bambu Lab X1C 3D printer: www.matterhackers.com/store/l/bambu-lab-x1-carbon-combo-3d-printer/sk/M80GDCL5?aff=7553
MANITYA Small Dehumidifier for Bedroom 580 sq ft: amzn.to/473UXFw
Adam Savage Temporary Ruler Tattoo: tested-store.com/products/adam-savages-temporary-ruler-tattoo
Hi, great build! You might have some issues with vibration of your print tables. Even partial mm of vibrations will impact build quality. The Bambu Labs X1 Carbon has input shaping that might trim this effect, but I would make my table very rigid and firmly planted.
Hope this is constructive, big fan.
Hi Adam! I would love if you could elaborate a little on your 9/11 mythbusting episodes, I found those episodes you made dumbfounding. You taught millions of people that you can't cut even thin steel sheet with thermite, I believed you for DECADES, I believed that it was a silly idea that Thermite could cut steel beams...
You lied to me, you made me and the entire world dumber. Why??? Was it something you were told to do? Did you simply not know how to work with thermites for cutting metals?
Explosives grade thermite (nano thermite compound that could not possibly occour naturally in the collision) was found at the WTC site btw. Molten bright glowing steel flowed from one of the corners of the building prior to collapse. Firefighters reported a series of controlled explosions (What NIST describes as "dust puffs").
I just want to know how much extra you got paid for playing a fool that episode?
You need a friend with a laser cutter 🤣👍🇬🇧 also might be fun to do a hydrogen flame polisher project for finishing acrylic edges? All the best.
Great offers!
Adam, I setup drying rods that are used in sealed weapon safes (to be YT friendly, pew-pews). These simply plug into any wall outlet and have been used for years to manage humidity and keep things from rusting. I live in Louisiana which is a geographical twin to Vietnam with Heat & 80%+ Humidity and the rods work great. They’re easily mountable and the diameter is typically 1/2-3/4 inch.
That’s what I’ve been using in my custom built filament dry box for the last few years. Also they’re usually $15-$20 and last forever.
I love watching Adam go through the exact steps and emotions as every other person who gets into 3d printing, myself included!
Excitement -> Confusion -> Frustration -> Anger -> Depression -> Acceptance
@@StuSaville "I don't have enough, I think I need one more"
@@BQAggie2006 -> Buyers Remorse
yeah holy shit why didnt i get one of these earlier... can build so many things, now if only i could find space for a bigger one or more...and the new generation of hyper speedy ones.... yep its an addiction that wont kill you and makes cool stuff :)
How about that last moment when Adam stuck his head in to inspect the current print? Just watching the printer work, inspecting the extruded layers for quality, and just admiring the print in progress. Such a familiar experience.
Manually drawing the front door without a ruler is next level! Awesome job Adam! It looks great.
Not only manually but also with the precision of a ruler... When he drew the last line it coincided perfectly with the first 😂
It's easy when you know the trick. Use your pinky as a guide to follow the edge of the material.
Adam has taught this trick in the past, but it still takes a good deal of experience to actually execute this trick as well as Adam does. He has many years of experience building props, including at ILM. On some of those jobs, he had to do this kind of thing many times a day during some of his builds, just to get the job done in the timeframe required.
Tip for those who want to cut Acrylic on your table saw. Go to your local big box hardware store and grab a 7.25" Vinyl siding blade for your saw. Now I know what you are thinking, "That is the wrong size blade for my saw". Yes, yes it is. The 7.25" blade will run slower, and the vinyl siding blade has low slope teeth on it that will not chip out the acrylic. Even on thinner pieces. Combine this with Step bit drill bits and you are an acrylic manipulating monster. Also, dish soap on the bits work wonders. If you don't have a step bit (GET ONE or MANY) you can sharpen an old drill bit to a point on the grinder. Use a slow speed when drilling with the dish soap as lube. Perfect cuts and holes every time! And Adam, why build the second box? I ran spool trollies (roller bases that the reels sit on) in my dry box (Which I built AFTER seeing yours) and have PTFE feeds running out through the Dry box up to my two printers. Works perfectly. My filament literally never leaves my dry box. Video will be up on my channel shortly.
When you say 'step bit' I think you mean what some engineers call a 'Pilot Bit' which has two cutting diameters, A small 1cm(ish) deep thinner starter tip and a thicker bit. Think of it like having two drill bits in one; A small starter bit and the actual size you want-to-drill bit all in one.
No, I mean step bit. Adam uses them all the time. Google it. @@penfold7800
Using a pilot bit, especially near the edge of a piece of plexi will almost guarantee you crack it. @@penfold7800
@@penfold7800 Not the actual purpose of those bits even if they are often times used to start a hole (but not actually drill them completly since they only have cutting edges on the tip). They are for running live centers on the lathe for Starting a hole there are actually other bits (NC Bits).
I love how Adam went from zero 3D Printing to Maximum 3D Printing in less than 30 seconds.
its so hilarious and so AMAZING HAHA
I can't wait to see the resin printing setup. The ventilation adds an extra challenge.
ADHD hyperfixation is real :)
It tends to go like that… 3D printing is a very very deep rabbit hole lol
@@cazmarius3442 If he ever gets a resin printer I hope he takes safety a bit more seriously.
Fascinating to me that you can work on the case WHILE THE PRINTER IS PRINTING. I'd have been rather nervous about messing up the print. Thanx... and what fun to be adding more printing capability in the shop. WOW! 🌻
He could literally pause the print, take out the filament, put it in the new box and then continue on with that printer. I do it on my Creality 10s Pro V2 all the time. In fact, in some of my printing, it's required.
Yup, you can pause printing and change filaments, for example if you want to use different colors in a print.
@@DoctorNemmo 🌻
Big word of advice for your 3D printers, Put them on really solid sturdy surfaces, I can see your anycubic is wobbling a lot. That would show up as echos or ghosts as the whole structure is vibrating. Thicken up the legs, put in corner brackets and if its on wheels, swap it for wheels that can switch to feet.
Great advice. A very stable base makes a huge difference.
You do want a sturdy surface but you minimize ghosting and ringing with anti vibration feet not by solidifying the frame. That would increase the ghosting and ringing effect.
Input shaping will help reduce the impact of vibrations, but I also came to post this tip.
That will help, but the floors in his workshop themselves are bouncy, so that will also be a factor.
Putting a concrete paver under the printer would go a long way. It'd increase the inertia of the cart, and require a lot more force from the printer before it would start shaking.
I know how you feel Adam. I was like this when I first got a 3D printer into my electronics lab. It's been 6 years since, but it's essential for bridging the gap between components, projects and it's so beautifully practical too, whenever I need a part, or want to put things that doesn't otherwise fit together, a few minutes in Blender, then a Slicer - an voila - magic!
Adam finally hits the 3D printing enlightenment for real, now he's hooked
So much this.
Next step a Voron, for faster prototyping!
I cant stop looking through your shop in the background. Its like an iSPY book. so many interesting things. Makes me want to save up to try and get a workspace. So many projects could happen at the same time. I love it.
Thank you for all you do. I read your book "Every tool is a hammer" and it resonated with me. I have more fun watching you make stuff and work in your cave. I am a maker, not anywhere near your talent or experience level, but your phrase "Serial Skill Collector" defines who I am. Thank you for sharing your talent and experience.
I finally upgraded to the same printer and It has revolutionized my prototyping and building process. I now 3D print half the things I used to buy from the hardware store.
Oh man, the editing job keeps giving us such gems! The 3d printer dancing while Adam is not looking xD
I love how throughout the entire process of building the enclosure, something was being printed inside
19:45 seeing him marking that looks just like the mythbusters blueprints lol
I very much appreciate that 'mentat mode' label. The little bits of humor included in your videos bring each project their own vibe of creativity and accomplishment.
It's so awesome getting into a hobby at the same time as Adam, it's great to see him add these new capabilities into the workshop!
I got into 3D printing because I teach creative technologies to 7th graders and it's part of the curriculum. What a time to be alive! I don't think any of my other co-teachers would have the same passion for this as me. I have always wanted to be like Adam Savage since I was a kid watching Mythbusters.
Me too! But I'm just on an Ender 3 and he's gone all out haha. Makes me want a Bambu Labs printer bad.
I've just started 3D printing as well with a small Kingroon KP3s, and immediately dove down the vortex of "how can I make this thing even better?". So far I'm on a Volcano hotend, printed modifications for a 12cm fan in the PSU, installed a mosfet board for the heated bed, Have a BTT Pi V1.2 so I can run Klipper over the network, and now I'm drawing up an enclosure for it with activated carbon sheets lining the walls to absorb noise/smells and improve print quality. It's awesome to see people like Adam who are as giddy and excited about stuff like this!
OMG, thank you Adam! I just bought me one of these two days ago. This is a lifesaver.
I really appreciate you guys over at Tested. The fact that Adam is willing to design, build, and even show his mistakes to the world without any hesitation is what inspires me to make and build myself. Thanks for the years of content!
Man , Adam I love to watch you work on these small projects . It’s so satisfying to watch because I’ve started doing these kind of things myself as well for my major at school . Keep it up man , big love 🫶
Loved Mythbusters so much growing up and now getting a second chance watch Adam build stuff. The 3D printing scene is amazing, it's never done! This is going to help you so much to make your idea's reality fairly easy!
Thanks for the making content again!
Two of my favorite pastimes are watching Adam's videos and watching 3D printing videos. Now I've got WORLDS COLLIDING!!....and it's glorious.
Love the calculating noises with the mental (edit: *mentat* - google auto-corrected) mode. Also - I liked that we got to follow you more as you walked around the shop - it was fun to see the sections dedicated to certain functions as well as all the collected props and goodies on display!
A better sound effect would have been the W.O.P.R.
That's "mentat" mode. A reference to the human computers in the Dune universe.
@@rootballer Finally! Someone got it! 😆
Ooof! Autocorrect got me! Apparently google doesn't like that word.@@rootballer
I had had a Kobra Max for a while now, and it has been a great printer. I had a screen issue at first, but the support from the company was good and shipped me another screen, took about a week. I just used the printer USB'd to the PC in the meantime. Have been quite happy with it, a nice upgrade from my smaller machines.
Adam, seeing you mentally build the dry box and adding the dimensions blows me away. That is something I simply cannot do. I need to draw everything out to truly get it in my mind's eye.
The mechanical calculator scene had me in stitches. Made my morning! Thanks for that.
I have 4 printers. I have 3 in 1 room and 1 is a brick in the garage for parts. I thought about an enclosure and I have the tent for my CR10 bookmarked but I haven't bought it. Oh, and the tent has clear panels so you can look through it.
The biggest reasons for an enclosure is to retain heat and to prevent wind from suddenly cooling the part or bed and popping it off. Been there, done that too many times!
The plastic is a bit overmuch. Cool though!
This is the best yt channel ever. Love you Adam. Since the old days. You are great and ofcourse the other ones too
I'm glad you got into 3d printing. It is an amazing hobby and tool. I now have 3 printers and want more. I can't wait to see more content about 3d printing.
21:44 tip
when u make that cut add the hinges then do all the setup and then make the next 3 cuts.
I think the thing I like the most about these videos is to watch all the different tools in use but more importantly the logical process through which these designs come to fruition. It's well thought out but as it comes together new challenges need to be addressed. Just fascinating.
42:40 ... Anyone with 3D printer knows that "blackout". You are doing stuff and just stop and stare at the running printer :D He truly is one of us! Love these videos
When cutting and drilling acrylic, the results are much better when using saw blades and drill bits that are designed for the purpose. When using general purpose blades and bits there's a bunch of cracking and tear out (and often melting). The different angles on these blades and bits makes all the difference in the world.
I’m so happy we can still watch Adam work.. it’s honestly so great! He’s such an incredible engineer/everything and makes me remember my childhood watching mythbusters.
Thanks Adam for still being you and showing us your work! ❤
This was a great binge. Thanks for the content on 3d printing.
Consider bumping up the nozzle size to say .6mm or .8mm to save time. You could have thicker layers and still maintain quality on large prints. It does use more material, but can sometimes cut down times to a 3rd of total print times and not cut much quality. Try it out in slicer settings and see if its something worth looking into.
Depends what you're doing. You can expect a lot more oozing with 0.6mm+, which in turn will cause blobs, zits, stringing and under-extrusions. Might be OK if you're post-processing anyway, but IMHO the negligible speed increase is not worth the significant decrease in quality and reliability, especially when running a print farm.
@@dsp4392Putting down 4X the material (if you have the heat) is not negligible, and you can get clean results with proper setup just like with any nozzle. Don't blame the tool if you can't get good results.
Pretty sure you have to change out at least the heatbreak. Anycubic is proprietary.
Any firmware updates have to be done through a phone app as well i believe. I have one, but haven't installed the app in a burner phone yet. Had I known this was the route anycubic was taking I would have bought something else.
You should put some black/yellow warning bands on this thing. You’re going to run into it one day 😮.
Nice enclosure btw! Love the way you build it!
13:50 So I actually did a similar thing for my big FDM printer. I made an enclosure that's not quite airtight, but fairly air resistant. It will serve mainly as a protector from dust and random disturbances. But I used signmaking coroplast sheets, and framing of 3/4-in square dowel. Added a couple hinges and a magnet to snap it shut, and it was in business. Not as pretty and you can't see through it, but does a certain job well, I think
Love the enclosure build! If you experience "Heat Creep" and it causes your filliment to clog in the extruder, you may want to add vents to the top for heat to escape. The LEDs will produce heat too.
Dude. I just started running my Kobra Max last night. I can't stop. YOU ARE AN INSPIRATION. YOU ARE THE COOLEST GUY IN THE WORLD. Just my humble opinion.
Also, my son (11) and I watch ALL of your videos and most of the Myth Busters shows. He too is a big nerd and I love it!
Thank you editor and Adam for your humour
2:50 Adam.exe
8:10-8;32 Thinking about Dinner
13:50-14;08 I Will Build My Own
29:12-29;30 very heavy
At 42:20 Didja notice the reflection?? FANTASTIC! Couldn't have planned that better! :D
Rivets in acrylic tend to crack after time. Use a washer on the backside for the rivet to expand against sandwiching the sheet in between the head and washer. Much less stress on the sheet=less cracking.
Nice. I built a similar size enclosure for a cleanroom at work. I use 20x20mm Al extrusion as a frame. And then slotted the polycarbonate sheet into the extrusion notches, so no gluing required .
Great job editor!
It just prints for us!
Thank you for your super thanks! We appreciate your support!
The R2 reflection during the unboxing was a nice touch!
Be mindful you'll have to either vent it or tweak your print heat settings otherwise it might run a but hot :) My advice would be put a HEPA filter exhaust on it :)
3d print aficionados... "avoid all vibration, don't even touch the table which it's printing, for God's sake".
Adam Savage... "pass me my power tools, I'm screwing the shit out of this table, and I'm not waiting for the print to finish"!
I love this channel, I hope Adam enjoys this new role as much as I appreciate the content. Best RUclips host period.
Mentat Mode! Brilliant!
Might be worth putting a mechanical fastener into the led strip above the printer. Last thing you want is the tape releasing midway through a multi day print cause the tape glue softened due to the heated enclosure.
@shadowarachhthe glue holding the led to the channel, not the channel to the enclosure
I really enjoy those Bambu Labs printers. Thinking about a P1P to replace (or at least takeover general duties for) my modded Ender 3v2.
Now I definitely have to build one for my elegoo neptune 3 max, love the build again! tx Adam
I always enjoy 3d printing parts for my 3d printer...
Very nice! Always a pleasure to watch Adam being creative 👍
I love the R2-D2 reflection off the X1C door at the end...
FYI - If you take a propane torch and heat up the cut edges (after sanding) they will go clear and disappear even more.
To those with smaller shops: You can also buy bigger sheets and use a plastic cutting knife to knock out panels small enough to clean up on your table saw! Theres always options for those of us cursed to work in basements, they just take a bit more work lol
I would actually like to see Adam build a VZ Bot 330 or a Voron 2 one day. I know he would enjoy the build :)
Don't think a "one" day build for a Voron 2 (especially not if your first Voron build) is plausible. I'm closing in on 72 hours into my current Voron (V2.4) and it's my fifth Voron build (2x Trident and 2X V0). I do go slow and meticulous, but anything under about 20 hours isn't likely. That said, I would also LOVE to see Adam do a Voron.
37:10 I have that same latch on my basement door. I've only HAD to make 2 models from scratch, since there is so much stuff, already on the internet, from some awesome people. if need be, I might tweak somebody's model, like I did for that latch. But, it's so nice to be able to search for something and just print it out.
Though, it's still fun to just think of something, model it out myself, then print it.
Printing is an excellent way to get stuff done!
I am loving these 3D printing videos from you!
i cant express this enough. change the kobra max to direct drive. get rid of the boden setup. its a printed bracket, and a stepper motor. it will drastically increase the print quality of the printer. best thing i ever did to mine
I am always fascinated by the projects you do and the sheer passion for projects. Though i have enjoyed your antics for years i''m relatively new to Tested and i catch up with all the past episodes as well as current. You have replaced Netflix for me , you are much more entertaining and i actually learn things and am inspired to do, create and be involved in projects now instead of waiting till retirement. In this episode when showing off your printer housing i got a glimpse of your helmets and other stuff in cupboards. You might have done it already but i have not seen it and that is a tour of that wonderful Aladdins cave you have. Kindest regards Steve.
I hope you get tons of fun out of printing, Adam! I'm a 3D modeler and man, getting a 3D printer when you're already decent at 3D is like getting super powers.
On my Ender 3 I upgraded the spool holder to one with a ball bearing. I feel it makes a difference as I had to re-calibrate the E steps once I did the upgrade. Considering how long the bowden tube is on your dry box, you probably should do the same.
Do you know where you got the stl.for it? Been looking for one like that
If you're willing to commit to keeping the Anycubic printer to the right of the Bambu printers, you could just mount the acrylic filament storage box you built in the top right part of the dehumidified chamber, feeding through the right wall.
I was going to suggest the same thing. Why have the fancy dehumidifier box and not use it?? Of course if you're mostly printing PLA it doesn't really matter.... and if you're going to do ABS, you need ventilation.
And he did
@@AdamMclardy no, he mounted a box on the side, giving it a weird shape. I would have kept it in there main box.
@AdamMclardy not quite, he mounted a new box on the side of the dehumidified cabinet, with a small fan cycling the air. It's probably the next best thing, but just mounting the spool inside the cabinet would have been easier and cleaner.
Thanks for making this one episode. and a lovely one at that... now, dinner time!
14:49 the face Adam made in that pause… am I the only one that half expected him saying in a low voice “yet”?
Looking forward to the video of you adding temp control + exhaust fan on the new box.
Super stoked you're getting into 3d printing, Adam! Can't wait to see what cool builds you have ahead!
yuuuusss TAP is my go-to. Just wanted to sing their praises.
I also wanna say I enjoy the MacGuffins placed in frame; Sometimes past builds and sometimes teases of future build videos. 25:13
Makes me smile to see Artoo sitting in the background whilst Adam does his thing.
I'd have added a peg to the storage box for the filament, thus, no thing else to power. Just run a vacuum tube to the box, install a rotator peg above the stored filament rolls that faces towards the hole and et viola!
You just made a drybox which can only hold a filament spool with the same large diameter hole in the middle. Different brands of filament differ widely.
I feel like he has a specific brand he buys a lot of that he knows.
@geak78 I was thinking the same thing. He has boxes of all the same brand, I think, below the printer.
For someone who buy whatever is on sale/is cheapest, the pipe might not work, but maybe a smaller one would, but it wouldn't be as strong to support the filament roll.
I don't know why but the camera tipping over occasionally always cracks me up XD
Oh, I really, really wanted that 3rd middle rivet...!! ...and you did it. So satisfying... :)
02:58. Lol that explains how you know what you have in your workshop and where to find it! Its the first time I have seen the other area and was wondering just this. #mentat Thanks. Laurie NZ. 😊😊😊😊
Love adam savage grew up watching him and so glad hes on RUclips
Adam you can get high static pressure axial fans from Noctua that come in a variety of sizes, if you ran two 1.5" hoses you could probably pump enough dry air in and out to make it work. They're very efficient and quiet with 150,000 hr MTTF reliability.
Used to have a cobra max. Loved it. Printed with a 1mm nozzle.
If you're making an enclosure, I highly recommend against Polycarbonate! Especially if you plan on heating it. If you're dead set on acrylic, go THICK 1/8 is too thin. The heated bed will probably be enough to heat the acrylic to the glass transition temperature. It's only 90°C so it's going to get wobbly around 60-70°C I tried using 1/8" acrylic for my first heated chamber and had to rebuild it almost entirely out of wood.
I have the Anycubic Chiron, which is effectively the predecessor to the Kobra Max. My recommendation for a fairly significant speed boost is to use a larger nozzle than the 0.4mm default. It allows both thicker layers and thicker filament traces (so you need fewer of them for any given wall thickeness). I put a 0.6 on my Chiron.
always love your one day builds, and enclosing a bed slinger is always a challenge. If you end up having to troubleshoot quality issues on the max, may need to look at the filament box/path. My experience has been that printers like VERY free flowing filament, and their printing speed will quickly outpace their pulling in of new plastic on long/windy paths or non-free spinning spools.
Great video and the enclosure looks great!
Also im sure ur aware but careful with jolting ur printers mid print 10:50
Adam, look for ionic membrane dehumidifier cell for the dry boxes. It's a Japanese technology that dehumidifies using a membrane that thru hydrolisis separates O and H.
These cells are sold in many different sizes and capacities.
Most important things are: much safer (no heat) and efficient (1 to 5 watts).
Greetings from Brazil!
I absolutely love these types of videos, makes me inspired to keep filming and building/creating! Love the 3D printing setup as well the X1C and A1 Mini by Bambu Labs look great and I’m really telling myself I don’t need another printer right now….
I just ordered an Anycubic Kobra 2 Max. It arrives in two days. I'm very excited about it.
That last part was riveting!
just curious, if you pause at 1:27, is that a large phallus in the case behind you?
There’s actually two with varying completions 🤣
If storing the filliment is best in the humidity controlled "hot box" is best. And you set up the larger printer to pull from an outside box, why dont you store the spool in the hot box?
I just love how he is making a case to stop the airflow moving the printer whilst its printing and yet he is literally building it while he is printing his hat on the machine, wobbling everywhere lol. Adam we love you
Working on getting my money together to get my first x1. Been selling a bunch of old drum gear and whatnot to try to fund it and a couple ams units to expand my home business. Can’t wait til I can get it!
23:35 He has the same Powermatic table saw and fence I have. A real workhorse!
I have the same printer! I love the things I printed. FYI, change the nozzle to a .06mm from the standard .04 and dial in your settings on the software unless you want to plug in the printer to a computer and do it that way. Great video!
wow .06mm what tiny things are you printing?
@@marc_frank LOL, believe it or not the standard nozzle when unboxing it is .04 mm. I bought a variety of different sizes. From .02 to 1.0, I feel the sweet number is .06, you still get great detail and faster. Making Helmets, Armor or anything big.. This has been best printer for the job!
@@winterwarlord I think you mean 0.6?
@@Dahlirama1980 Derp.. Yes 0.6
@@winterwarlord i think i'll try .6 again, too
.8 is a bit too much
LOVE my anycubic. The kobra NEO is an excellent starter printer for anyone wanting to try the business!
@Adam I have always gone with the option of having the Spools above the printer, much like your Bambu does it (that may be why it is so good). This can help reduce print failures as you have gravity working with you when feeding the filament into the print head, basically your printer does not have to work to feed the filament in at all. With the spools below the print head, your printer has to work harder, pulling on the filament and fighting gravity. Just my $0.02
I got this printer a month ago. And just set up yesterday. I gotta say. Light years ahead of the Chiron I had. So much easier to setup. My first print was flawless.
Adam; I too am obsessed. Funny enough, I purchased a Kobra Max for similar reasons, and I then purchased the X1-Carbon. Both are fantastic, but my extruder on my Max died after a month. 😢 Free replacement, though, and they responded fast.
You can cut 4x8 sheets use your festool dust extractor with a festool track saw. Use you table saw for more manageable cuts