Hi, great build! You might have some issues with vibration of your print tables. Even partial mm of vibrations will impact build quality. The Bambu Labs X1 Carbon has input shaping that might trim this effect, but I would make my table very rigid and firmly planted. Hope this is constructive, big fan.
Hi Adam! I would love if you could elaborate a little on your 9/11 mythbusting episodes, I found those episodes you made dumbfounding. You taught millions of people that you can't cut even thin steel sheet with thermite, I believed you for DECADES, I believed that it was a silly idea that Thermite could cut steel beams... You lied to me, you made me and the entire world dumber. Why??? Was it something you were told to do? Did you simply not know how to work with thermites for cutting metals? Explosives grade thermite (nano thermite compound that could not possibly occour naturally in the collision) was found at the WTC site btw. Molten bright glowing steel flowed from one of the corners of the building prior to collapse. Firefighters reported a series of controlled explosions (What NIST describes as "dust puffs"). I just want to know how much extra you got paid for playing a fool that episode?
Adam, I setup drying rods that are used in sealed weapon safes (to be YT friendly, pew-pews). These simply plug into any wall outlet and have been used for years to manage humidity and keep things from rusting. I live in Louisiana which is a geographical twin to Vietnam with Heat & 80%+ Humidity and the rods work great. They’re easily mountable and the diameter is typically 1/2-3/4 inch. That’s what I’ve been using in my custom built filament dry box for the last few years. Also they’re usually $15-$20 and last forever.
Big word of advice for your 3D printers, Put them on really solid sturdy surfaces, I can see your anycubic is wobbling a lot. That would show up as echos or ghosts as the whole structure is vibrating. Thicken up the legs, put in corner brackets and if its on wheels, swap it for wheels that can switch to feet.
You do want a sturdy surface but you minimize ghosting and ringing with anti vibration feet not by solidifying the frame. That would increase the ghosting and ringing effect.
Putting a concrete paver under the printer would go a long way. It'd increase the inertia of the cart, and require a lot more force from the printer before it would start shaking.
yeah holy shit why didnt i get one of these earlier... can build so many things, now if only i could find space for a bigger one or more...and the new generation of hyper speedy ones.... yep its an addiction that wont kill you and makes cool stuff :)
How about that last moment when Adam stuck his head in to inspect the current print? Just watching the printer work, inspecting the extruded layers for quality, and just admiring the print in progress. Such a familiar experience.
Adam has taught this trick in the past, but it still takes a good deal of experience to actually execute this trick as well as Adam does. He has many years of experience building props, including at ILM. On some of those jobs, he had to do this kind of thing many times a day during some of his builds, just to get the job done in the timeframe required.
Tip for those who want to cut Acrylic on your table saw. Go to your local big box hardware store and grab a 7.25" Vinyl siding blade for your saw. Now I know what you are thinking, "That is the wrong size blade for my saw". Yes, yes it is. The 7.25" blade will run slower, and the vinyl siding blade has low slope teeth on it that will not chip out the acrylic. Even on thinner pieces. Combine this with Step bit drill bits and you are an acrylic manipulating monster. Also, dish soap on the bits work wonders. If you don't have a step bit (GET ONE or MANY) you can sharpen an old drill bit to a point on the grinder. Use a slow speed when drilling with the dish soap as lube. Perfect cuts and holes every time! And Adam, why build the second box? I ran spool trollies (roller bases that the reels sit on) in my dry box (Which I built AFTER seeing yours) and have PTFE feeds running out through the Dry box up to my two printers. Works perfectly. My filament literally never leaves my dry box. Video will be up on my channel shortly.
When you say 'step bit' I think you mean what some engineers call a 'Pilot Bit' which has two cutting diameters, A small 1cm(ish) deep thinner starter tip and a thicker bit. Think of it like having two drill bits in one; A small starter bit and the actual size you want-to-drill bit all in one.
@@penfold7800 Not the actual purpose of those bits even if they are often times used to start a hole (but not actually drill them completly since they only have cutting edges on the tip). They are for running live centers on the lathe for Starting a hole there are actually other bits (NC Bits).
Fascinating to me that you can work on the case WHILE THE PRINTER IS PRINTING. I'd have been rather nervous about messing up the print. Thanx... and what fun to be adding more printing capability in the shop. WOW! 🌻
He could literally pause the print, take out the filament, put it in the new box and then continue on with that printer. I do it on my Creality 10s Pro V2 all the time. In fact, in some of my printing, it's required.
I got into 3D printing because I teach creative technologies to 7th graders and it's part of the curriculum. What a time to be alive! I don't think any of my other co-teachers would have the same passion for this as me. I have always wanted to be like Adam Savage since I was a kid watching Mythbusters.
I know how you feel Adam. I was like this when I first got a 3D printer into my electronics lab. It's been 6 years since, but it's essential for bridging the gap between components, projects and it's so beautifully practical too, whenever I need a part, or want to put things that doesn't otherwise fit together, a few minutes in Blender, then a Slicer - an voila - magic!
When cutting and drilling acrylic, the results are much better when using saw blades and drill bits that are designed for the purpose. When using general purpose blades and bits there's a bunch of cracking and tear out (and often melting). The different angles on these blades and bits makes all the difference in the world.
I finally upgraded to the same printer and It has revolutionized my prototyping and building process. I now 3D print half the things I used to buy from the hardware store.
I've just started 3D printing as well with a small Kingroon KP3s, and immediately dove down the vortex of "how can I make this thing even better?". So far I'm on a Volcano hotend, printed modifications for a 12cm fan in the PSU, installed a mosfet board for the heated bed, Have a BTT Pi V1.2 so I can run Klipper over the network, and now I'm drawing up an enclosure for it with activated carbon sheets lining the walls to absorb noise/smells and improve print quality. It's awesome to see people like Adam who are as giddy and excited about stuff like this!
I very much appreciate that 'mentat mode' label. The little bits of humor included in your videos bring each project their own vibe of creativity and accomplishment.
Thank you for all you do. I read your book "Every tool is a hammer" and it resonated with me. I have more fun watching you make stuff and work in your cave. I am a maker, not anywhere near your talent or experience level, but your phrase "Serial Skill Collector" defines who I am. Thank you for sharing your talent and experience.
I think the thing I like the most about these videos is to watch all the different tools in use but more importantly the logical process through which these designs come to fruition. It's well thought out but as it comes together new challenges need to be addressed. Just fascinating.
I cant stop looking through your shop in the background. Its like an iSPY book. so many interesting things. Makes me want to save up to try and get a workspace. So many projects could happen at the same time. I love it.
Consider bumping up the nozzle size to say .6mm or .8mm to save time. You could have thicker layers and still maintain quality on large prints. It does use more material, but can sometimes cut down times to a 3rd of total print times and not cut much quality. Try it out in slicer settings and see if its something worth looking into.
Depends what you're doing. You can expect a lot more oozing with 0.6mm+, which in turn will cause blobs, zits, stringing and under-extrusions. Might be OK if you're post-processing anyway, but IMHO the negligible speed increase is not worth the significant decrease in quality and reliability, especially when running a print farm.
@@dsp4392Putting down 4X the material (if you have the heat) is not negligible, and you can get clean results with proper setup just like with any nozzle. Don't blame the tool if you can't get good results.
Pretty sure you have to change out at least the heatbreak. Anycubic is proprietary. Any firmware updates have to be done through a phone app as well i believe. I have one, but haven't installed the app in a burner phone yet. Had I known this was the route anycubic was taking I would have bought something else.
Don't think a "one" day build for a Voron 2 (especially not if your first Voron build) is plausible. I'm closing in on 72 hours into my current Voron (V2.4) and it's my fifth Voron build (2x Trident and 2X V0). I do go slow and meticulous, but anything under about 20 hours isn't likely. That said, I would also LOVE to see Adam do a Voron.
I had had a Kobra Max for a while now, and it has been a great printer. I had a screen issue at first, but the support from the company was good and shipped me another screen, took about a week. I just used the printer USB'd to the PC in the meantime. Have been quite happy with it, a nice upgrade from my smaller machines.
I really appreciate you guys over at Tested. The fact that Adam is willing to design, build, and even show his mistakes to the world without any hesitation is what inspires me to make and build myself. Thanks for the years of content!
Adam, seeing you mentally build the dry box and adding the dimensions blows me away. That is something I simply cannot do. I need to draw everything out to truly get it in my mind's eye.
i cant express this enough. change the kobra max to direct drive. get rid of the boden setup. its a printed bracket, and a stepper motor. it will drastically increase the print quality of the printer. best thing i ever did to mine
To those with smaller shops: You can also buy bigger sheets and use a plastic cutting knife to knock out panels small enough to clean up on your table saw! Theres always options for those of us cursed to work in basements, they just take a bit more work lol
You just made a drybox which can only hold a filament spool with the same large diameter hole in the middle. Different brands of filament differ widely.
@geak78 I was thinking the same thing. He has boxes of all the same brand, I think, below the printer. For someone who buy whatever is on sale/is cheapest, the pipe might not work, but maybe a smaller one would, but it wouldn't be as strong to support the filament roll.
Love the calculating noises with the mental (edit: *mentat* - google auto-corrected) mode. Also - I liked that we got to follow you more as you walked around the shop - it was fun to see the sections dedicated to certain functions as well as all the collected props and goodies on display!
Might be worth putting a mechanical fastener into the led strip above the printer. Last thing you want is the tape releasing midway through a multi day print cause the tape glue softened due to the heated enclosure.
Love the enclosure build! If you experience "Heat Creep" and it causes your filliment to clog in the extruder, you may want to add vents to the top for heat to escape. The LEDs will produce heat too.
Man , Adam I love to watch you work on these small projects . It’s so satisfying to watch because I’ve started doing these kind of things myself as well for my major at school . Keep it up man , big love 🫶
Be mindful you'll have to either vent it or tweak your print heat settings otherwise it might run a but hot :) My advice would be put a HEPA filter exhaust on it :)
If you're willing to commit to keeping the Anycubic printer to the right of the Bambu printers, you could just mount the acrylic filament storage box you built in the top right part of the dehumidified chamber, feeding through the right wall.
I was going to suggest the same thing. Why have the fancy dehumidifier box and not use it?? Of course if you're mostly printing PLA it doesn't really matter.... and if you're going to do ABS, you need ventilation.
@AdamMclardy not quite, he mounted a new box on the side of the dehumidified cabinet, with a small fan cycling the air. It's probably the next best thing, but just mounting the spool inside the cabinet would have been easier and cleaner.
Loved Mythbusters so much growing up and now getting a second chance watch Adam build stuff. The 3D printing scene is amazing, it's never done! This is going to help you so much to make your idea's reality fairly easy! Thanks for the making content again!
Rivets in acrylic tend to crack after time. Use a washer on the backside for the rivet to expand against sandwiching the sheet in between the head and washer. Much less stress on the sheet=less cracking.
I’m so happy we can still watch Adam work.. it’s honestly so great! He’s such an incredible engineer/everything and makes me remember my childhood watching mythbusters. Thanks Adam for still being you and showing us your work! ❤
I got this printer a month ago. And just set up yesterday. I gotta say. Light years ahead of the Chiron I had. So much easier to setup. My first print was flawless.
Dude. I just started running my Kobra Max last night. I can't stop. YOU ARE AN INSPIRATION. YOU ARE THE COOLEST GUY IN THE WORLD. Just my humble opinion.
Adam you can get high static pressure axial fans from Noctua that come in a variety of sizes, if you ran two 1.5" hoses you could probably pump enough dry air in and out to make it work. They're very efficient and quiet with 150,000 hr MTTF reliability.
The mechanical calculator scene had me in stitches. Made my morning! Thanks for that. I have 4 printers. I have 3 in 1 room and 1 is a brick in the garage for parts. I thought about an enclosure and I have the tent for my CR10 bookmarked but I haven't bought it. Oh, and the tent has clear panels so you can look through it. The biggest reasons for an enclosure is to retain heat and to prevent wind from suddenly cooling the part or bed and popping it off. Been there, done that too many times! The plastic is a bit overmuch. Cool though!
I hope you get tons of fun out of printing, Adam! I'm a 3D modeler and man, getting a 3D printer when you're already decent at 3D is like getting super powers.
I love that Adam has gone from a few years ago replying to viewers comments about 3d printing saying that it wasn't for him and his process to now embracing it with full effort with 3 printers and dedicated spaces for them
I just love how he is making a case to stop the airflow moving the printer whilst its printing and yet he is literally building it while he is printing his hat on the machine, wobbling everywhere lol. Adam we love you
I have the same printer! I love the things I printed. FYI, change the nozzle to a .06mm from the standard .04 and dial in your settings on the software unless you want to plug in the printer to a computer and do it that way. Great video!
@@marc_frank LOL, believe it or not the standard nozzle when unboxing it is .04 mm. I bought a variety of different sizes. From .02 to 1.0, I feel the sweet number is .06, you still get great detail and faster. Making Helmets, Armor or anything big.. This has been best printer for the job!
just small note, make the filament spool supported by bearings, it will improve your print quality quiet a bit, specially when using large heavy spools - like 3 kg.
I'm glad you got into 3d printing. It is an amazing hobby and tool. I now have 3 printers and want more. I can't wait to see more content about 3d printing.
Adam, if you are using PLA, then I wouldn't worry about dry boxes. I have PLA filament that has been sitting out in the open for 4 years and is still good. The ends get a little brittle but you just break that off until you get down to the good stuff. It's the other filaments like PETG, TPU, ABS and some of the more exotic filaments that you need to keep dry. But really happy to see you so excited about a hobby that I have been into for many years!
On my Ender 3 I upgraded the spool holder to one with a ball bearing. I feel it makes a difference as I had to re-calibrate the E steps once I did the upgrade. Considering how long the bowden tube is on your dry box, you probably should do the same.
Ive been 3d printing for almost 4 years, you can do so many things with it, its great. The overall quality of machines is significantly better than 4 years ago because of printers like the bambu's.
If you're making an enclosure, I highly recommend against Polycarbonate! Especially if you plan on heating it. If you're dead set on acrylic, go THICK 1/8 is too thin. The heated bed will probably be enough to heat the acrylic to the glass transition temperature. It's only 90°C so it's going to get wobbly around 60-70°C I tried using 1/8" acrylic for my first heated chamber and had to rebuild it almost entirely out of wood.
Nice. I built a similar size enclosure for a cleanroom at work. I use 20x20mm Al extrusion as a frame. And then slotted the polycarbonate sheet into the extrusion notches, so no gluing required .
One of my favorite parts of watching these videos is Adam already finishing his initial plans then going "wait, why can't I do this too?!" because I do the exact same thing when I do any project.
Adam, look for ionic membrane dehumidifier cell for the dry boxes. It's a Japanese technology that dehumidifies using a membrane that thru hydrolisis separates O and H. These cells are sold in many different sizes and capacities. Most important things are: much safer (no heat) and efficient (1 to 5 watts). Greetings from Brazil!
13:50 So I actually did a similar thing for my big FDM printer. I made an enclosure that's not quite airtight, but fairly air resistant. It will serve mainly as a protector from dust and random disturbances. But I used signmaking coroplast sheets, and framing of 3/4-in square dowel. Added a couple hinges and a magnet to snap it shut, and it was in business. Not as pretty and you can't see through it, but does a certain job well, I think
I have the Anycubic Chiron, which is effectively the predecessor to the Kobra Max. My recommendation for a fairly significant speed boost is to use a larger nozzle than the 0.4mm default. It allows both thicker layers and thicker filament traces (so you need fewer of them for any given wall thickeness). I put a 0.6 on my Chiron.
Correct me if I am wrong, but pretty easy to get into 3D printing in a big way and quickly when the printers and supplies are given to you by the companies. As a way to market their products it makes perfect sense. Put your machines in the hands of a craftsman with a 6 million plus audience to boost sales. Not knocking it, just saying.
@@doberski6855 im not saying anything about that, its just a general comment that its nice to see adam becoming a 3d printing geek like me and many other so quickly
I got a 3D printer in November 2022 and I'm obsessed with printing functional parts to solve problems and make repairs around my home and workshop. Love it!
Genuinely love how even though he could afford industrial 3D printers worth thousands and thousands of dollars, he is more interested in using and sharing his experience with the hobby printers that more people can relate to.
I have two 3D printers. One I put together from parts supplied every two weeks by a magazine subscription. It tool me two years to finish and its small (14x14cm) and very simple. The second was a kit that I assembled in a week with a bigger print bed (20x20 cm) and its a bit more sophisticated. But hte first makes MUCH better prints - because its in an enclosure. Enclosures really make a big difference.
42:40 ... Anyone with 3D printer knows that "blackout". You are doing stuff and just stop and stare at the running printer :D He truly is one of us! Love these videos
I got my first 3d printer in January, and I've since totally torn down and rebuilt it multiple times. It's such a frankenstein right now. What a perfect hobby for people who can't help but upgrade and tinker
Keeping filament dry is important but it is not all that critical if you don’t have issues related to that. Same thing with enclosure, if you are printing PLA, you just don’t need it. Just saying in case someone not familiar with the 3d printing get deterred by all these work Adam is doing. That’s Adam’s choice and not a technical requirement.
Got my first printer in December, a Prusa Mk3, and now I’m always trying to solve problems via 3D printing 😂 Next project is printing some sort of helmet 🔥
I managed a one piece Mandalorian helmet on my FLSun QQS Pro. 70 hours at .15 layers in silk silver PLA. It looked gorgeous but support cleanup was a mess.
I actually had one of those printers. I ultimately gave up on it when I learned it had less in common with a 3D printer and more in common with a small yellow citrus fruit. The customer service is very good for this company, but getting any free, warranty-covered replacement parts meant a 4-6 week wait, even if the replacement part you got didn't fix the problem, or was defective itself. After almost 6 months of back-and forth, I decided to just get a new printer.
My Kobra standard was much the same. Heat bed died. About 8 weeks for a new one. Even after months of tuning and countless slicer tweaks, my new Qidi X-Smart3 completely blows it out of the water. Granted it's a much better printer in every way except size and cost a lot more.
A mech engineer suggestion: Polycarbonate is (mostly) self extinguishing so I both recommend to and build my own stuff like this with it. Biggest drawback is that it is much harder/more expensive to laser cut.
With Adam getting into the 3D printer space, I would love to see him eventually do a one day build of a Voron. Even if it was an LDO Kit of a 2.4 or something that would be great. Additionally Adam getting into resin printing and coming up with his own wash and cure station would be great, you know he would over engineer it but it would work perfectly for him and his process. If Adam happens to read this: To properly dry your filament you need to heat it up!! PLA should be dried at 45C for 2-6 hours to cook off the moisture. Dessicant will stop it from absorbing more moisture but heat will remove the moiture from the filament itself.
The printer has a large build volume but it is still a bed slinger. That means it isn’t very space efficient. It requires a lot of room to swing that bed back and forth. Core XY or similar printers are much more space efficient since the whole frame doesn’t need to be much larger than the bed. Also not having to move a heavy bed around means they can go much faster, that is part of why the Bambu labs printers are so fast. Core XY printers are also much easier to enclose, you just need to attach panels to the sides and top.
I really like that drying filament/keeping it dry is high on your priority list! Imo it gets way too less attention. If your filament is nice and dry your prints won't have any stringing/whisping (if retraction is also calibrated). Just be aware that most companies that produce filament use water to cool the plastic down after extruding it, so freshly bought and sealed filament spools will already have a certain degree of moisture in them. So drying them right away is a good idea. Those ordinary, cheap food dehydraters do a great job in drying the filament :)
@Adam I have always gone with the option of having the Spools above the printer, much like your Bambu does it (that may be why it is so good). This can help reduce print failures as you have gravity working with you when feeding the filament into the print head, basically your printer does not have to work to feed the filament in at all. With the spools below the print head, your printer has to work harder, pulling on the filament and fighting gravity. Just my $0.02
When I saw the title I was honestly hoping we'd see Adam building a Voron. I think we need Adam building a Voron 2.4 350 kit from LDO Motors in our lives. That'd be a big printer.
Working on getting my money together to get my first x1. Been selling a bunch of old drum gear and whatnot to try to fund it and a couple ams units to expand my home business. Can’t wait til I can get it!
Anycubic makes small USB powered heaters for their resin printers that would fit perfectly inside that spool holder. They don't get warm enough to dry the filament themselves but if you get into things like nylon I'd recommend the food dehydrator approach.
Anycubic Kobra Max: www.anycubic.com/products/kobra-max
3KG PLA Filament: www.matterhackers.com/store/l/black-mh-build-series-pla-filament-175mm-3kg/sk/MPTXV94Y?aff=7553
Bambu Lab X1C 3D printer: www.matterhackers.com/store/l/bambu-lab-x1-carbon-combo-3d-printer/sk/M80GDCL5?aff=7553
MANITYA Small Dehumidifier for Bedroom 580 sq ft: amzn.to/473UXFw
Adam Savage Temporary Ruler Tattoo: tested-store.com/products/adam-savages-temporary-ruler-tattoo
Hi, great build! You might have some issues with vibration of your print tables. Even partial mm of vibrations will impact build quality. The Bambu Labs X1 Carbon has input shaping that might trim this effect, but I would make my table very rigid and firmly planted.
Hope this is constructive, big fan.
Hi Adam! I would love if you could elaborate a little on your 9/11 mythbusting episodes, I found those episodes you made dumbfounding. You taught millions of people that you can't cut even thin steel sheet with thermite, I believed you for DECADES, I believed that it was a silly idea that Thermite could cut steel beams...
You lied to me, you made me and the entire world dumber. Why??? Was it something you were told to do? Did you simply not know how to work with thermites for cutting metals?
Explosives grade thermite (nano thermite compound that could not possibly occour naturally in the collision) was found at the WTC site btw. Molten bright glowing steel flowed from one of the corners of the building prior to collapse. Firefighters reported a series of controlled explosions (What NIST describes as "dust puffs").
I just want to know how much extra you got paid for playing a fool that episode?
You need a friend with a laser cutter 🤣👍🇬🇧 also might be fun to do a hydrogen flame polisher project for finishing acrylic edges? All the best.
Great offers!
Adam, I setup drying rods that are used in sealed weapon safes (to be YT friendly, pew-pews). These simply plug into any wall outlet and have been used for years to manage humidity and keep things from rusting. I live in Louisiana which is a geographical twin to Vietnam with Heat & 80%+ Humidity and the rods work great. They’re easily mountable and the diameter is typically 1/2-3/4 inch.
That’s what I’ve been using in my custom built filament dry box for the last few years. Also they’re usually $15-$20 and last forever.
I love how Adam went from zero 3D Printing to Maximum 3D Printing in less than 30 seconds.
its so hilarious and so AMAZING HAHA
I can't wait to see the resin printing setup. The ventilation adds an extra challenge.
ADHD hyperfixation is real :)
It tends to go like that… 3D printing is a very very deep rabbit hole lol
@@cazmarius3442 If he ever gets a resin printer I hope he takes safety a bit more seriously.
Big word of advice for your 3D printers, Put them on really solid sturdy surfaces, I can see your anycubic is wobbling a lot. That would show up as echos or ghosts as the whole structure is vibrating. Thicken up the legs, put in corner brackets and if its on wheels, swap it for wheels that can switch to feet.
Great advice. A very stable base makes a huge difference.
You do want a sturdy surface but you minimize ghosting and ringing with anti vibration feet not by solidifying the frame. That would increase the ghosting and ringing effect.
Input shaping will help reduce the impact of vibrations, but I also came to post this tip.
That will help, but the floors in his workshop themselves are bouncy, so that will also be a factor.
Putting a concrete paver under the printer would go a long way. It'd increase the inertia of the cart, and require a lot more force from the printer before it would start shaking.
I love watching Adam go through the exact steps and emotions as every other person who gets into 3d printing, myself included!
Excitement -> Confusion -> Frustration -> Anger -> Depression -> Acceptance
@@StuSaville "I don't have enough, I think I need one more"
@@BQAggie2006 -> Buyers Remorse
yeah holy shit why didnt i get one of these earlier... can build so many things, now if only i could find space for a bigger one or more...and the new generation of hyper speedy ones.... yep its an addiction that wont kill you and makes cool stuff :)
How about that last moment when Adam stuck his head in to inspect the current print? Just watching the printer work, inspecting the extruded layers for quality, and just admiring the print in progress. Such a familiar experience.
Manually drawing the front door without a ruler is next level! Awesome job Adam! It looks great.
Not only manually but also with the precision of a ruler... When he drew the last line it coincided perfectly with the first 😂
It's easy when you know the trick. Use your pinky as a guide to follow the edge of the material.
Adam has taught this trick in the past, but it still takes a good deal of experience to actually execute this trick as well as Adam does. He has many years of experience building props, including at ILM. On some of those jobs, he had to do this kind of thing many times a day during some of his builds, just to get the job done in the timeframe required.
Tip for those who want to cut Acrylic on your table saw. Go to your local big box hardware store and grab a 7.25" Vinyl siding blade for your saw. Now I know what you are thinking, "That is the wrong size blade for my saw". Yes, yes it is. The 7.25" blade will run slower, and the vinyl siding blade has low slope teeth on it that will not chip out the acrylic. Even on thinner pieces. Combine this with Step bit drill bits and you are an acrylic manipulating monster. Also, dish soap on the bits work wonders. If you don't have a step bit (GET ONE or MANY) you can sharpen an old drill bit to a point on the grinder. Use a slow speed when drilling with the dish soap as lube. Perfect cuts and holes every time! And Adam, why build the second box? I ran spool trollies (roller bases that the reels sit on) in my dry box (Which I built AFTER seeing yours) and have PTFE feeds running out through the Dry box up to my two printers. Works perfectly. My filament literally never leaves my dry box. Video will be up on my channel shortly.
When you say 'step bit' I think you mean what some engineers call a 'Pilot Bit' which has two cutting diameters, A small 1cm(ish) deep thinner starter tip and a thicker bit. Think of it like having two drill bits in one; A small starter bit and the actual size you want-to-drill bit all in one.
No, I mean step bit. Adam uses them all the time. Google it. @@penfold7800
Using a pilot bit, especially near the edge of a piece of plexi will almost guarantee you crack it. @@penfold7800
@@penfold7800 Not the actual purpose of those bits even if they are often times used to start a hole (but not actually drill them completly since they only have cutting edges on the tip). They are for running live centers on the lathe for Starting a hole there are actually other bits (NC Bits).
I love how throughout the entire process of building the enclosure, something was being printed inside
Adam finally hits the 3D printing enlightenment for real, now he's hooked
So much this.
Next step a Voron, for faster prototyping!
Fascinating to me that you can work on the case WHILE THE PRINTER IS PRINTING. I'd have been rather nervous about messing up the print. Thanx... and what fun to be adding more printing capability in the shop. WOW! 🌻
He could literally pause the print, take out the filament, put it in the new box and then continue on with that printer. I do it on my Creality 10s Pro V2 all the time. In fact, in some of my printing, it's required.
Yup, you can pause printing and change filaments, for example if you want to use different colors in a print.
@@DoctorNemmo 🌻
It's so awesome getting into a hobby at the same time as Adam, it's great to see him add these new capabilities into the workshop!
I got into 3D printing because I teach creative technologies to 7th graders and it's part of the curriculum. What a time to be alive! I don't think any of my other co-teachers would have the same passion for this as me. I have always wanted to be like Adam Savage since I was a kid watching Mythbusters.
Me too! But I'm just on an Ender 3 and he's gone all out haha. Makes me want a Bambu Labs printer bad.
I know how you feel Adam. I was like this when I first got a 3D printer into my electronics lab. It's been 6 years since, but it's essential for bridging the gap between components, projects and it's so beautifully practical too, whenever I need a part, or want to put things that doesn't otherwise fit together, a few minutes in Blender, then a Slicer - an voila - magic!
Oh man, the editing job keeps giving us such gems! The 3d printer dancing while Adam is not looking xD
When cutting and drilling acrylic, the results are much better when using saw blades and drill bits that are designed for the purpose. When using general purpose blades and bits there's a bunch of cracking and tear out (and often melting). The different angles on these blades and bits makes all the difference in the world.
I finally upgraded to the same printer and It has revolutionized my prototyping and building process. I now 3D print half the things I used to buy from the hardware store.
I've just started 3D printing as well with a small Kingroon KP3s, and immediately dove down the vortex of "how can I make this thing even better?". So far I'm on a Volcano hotend, printed modifications for a 12cm fan in the PSU, installed a mosfet board for the heated bed, Have a BTT Pi V1.2 so I can run Klipper over the network, and now I'm drawing up an enclosure for it with activated carbon sheets lining the walls to absorb noise/smells and improve print quality. It's awesome to see people like Adam who are as giddy and excited about stuff like this!
I very much appreciate that 'mentat mode' label. The little bits of humor included in your videos bring each project their own vibe of creativity and accomplishment.
Thank you for all you do. I read your book "Every tool is a hammer" and it resonated with me. I have more fun watching you make stuff and work in your cave. I am a maker, not anywhere near your talent or experience level, but your phrase "Serial Skill Collector" defines who I am. Thank you for sharing your talent and experience.
OMG, thank you Adam! I just bought me one of these two days ago. This is a lifesaver.
I think the thing I like the most about these videos is to watch all the different tools in use but more importantly the logical process through which these designs come to fruition. It's well thought out but as it comes together new challenges need to be addressed. Just fascinating.
I cant stop looking through your shop in the background. Its like an iSPY book. so many interesting things. Makes me want to save up to try and get a workspace. So many projects could happen at the same time. I love it.
Consider bumping up the nozzle size to say .6mm or .8mm to save time. You could have thicker layers and still maintain quality on large prints. It does use more material, but can sometimes cut down times to a 3rd of total print times and not cut much quality. Try it out in slicer settings and see if its something worth looking into.
Depends what you're doing. You can expect a lot more oozing with 0.6mm+, which in turn will cause blobs, zits, stringing and under-extrusions. Might be OK if you're post-processing anyway, but IMHO the negligible speed increase is not worth the significant decrease in quality and reliability, especially when running a print farm.
@@dsp4392Putting down 4X the material (if you have the heat) is not negligible, and you can get clean results with proper setup just like with any nozzle. Don't blame the tool if you can't get good results.
Pretty sure you have to change out at least the heatbreak. Anycubic is proprietary.
Any firmware updates have to be done through a phone app as well i believe. I have one, but haven't installed the app in a burner phone yet. Had I known this was the route anycubic was taking I would have bought something else.
I would actually like to see Adam build a VZ Bot 330 or a Voron 2 one day. I know he would enjoy the build :)
Don't think a "one" day build for a Voron 2 (especially not if your first Voron build) is plausible. I'm closing in on 72 hours into my current Voron (V2.4) and it's my fifth Voron build (2x Trident and 2X V0). I do go slow and meticulous, but anything under about 20 hours isn't likely. That said, I would also LOVE to see Adam do a Voron.
I had had a Kobra Max for a while now, and it has been a great printer. I had a screen issue at first, but the support from the company was good and shipped me another screen, took about a week. I just used the printer USB'd to the PC in the meantime. Have been quite happy with it, a nice upgrade from my smaller machines.
I really appreciate you guys over at Tested. The fact that Adam is willing to design, build, and even show his mistakes to the world without any hesitation is what inspires me to make and build myself. Thanks for the years of content!
Adam, seeing you mentally build the dry box and adding the dimensions blows me away. That is something I simply cannot do. I need to draw everything out to truly get it in my mind's eye.
Two of my favorite pastimes are watching Adam's videos and watching 3D printing videos. Now I've got WORLDS COLLIDING!!....and it's glorious.
i cant express this enough. change the kobra max to direct drive. get rid of the boden setup. its a printed bracket, and a stepper motor. it will drastically increase the print quality of the printer. best thing i ever did to mine
To those with smaller shops: You can also buy bigger sheets and use a plastic cutting knife to knock out panels small enough to clean up on your table saw! Theres always options for those of us cursed to work in basements, they just take a bit more work lol
You just made a drybox which can only hold a filament spool with the same large diameter hole in the middle. Different brands of filament differ widely.
I feel like he has a specific brand he buys a lot of that he knows.
@geak78 I was thinking the same thing. He has boxes of all the same brand, I think, below the printer.
For someone who buy whatever is on sale/is cheapest, the pipe might not work, but maybe a smaller one would, but it wouldn't be as strong to support the filament roll.
Love the calculating noises with the mental (edit: *mentat* - google auto-corrected) mode. Also - I liked that we got to follow you more as you walked around the shop - it was fun to see the sections dedicated to certain functions as well as all the collected props and goodies on display!
A better sound effect would have been the W.O.P.R.
That's "mentat" mode. A reference to the human computers in the Dune universe.
@@rootballer Finally! Someone got it! 😆
Ooof! Autocorrect got me! Apparently google doesn't like that word.@@rootballer
Might be worth putting a mechanical fastener into the led strip above the printer. Last thing you want is the tape releasing midway through a multi day print cause the tape glue softened due to the heated enclosure.
@shadowarachhthe glue holding the led to the channel, not the channel to the enclosure
Love the enclosure build! If you experience "Heat Creep" and it causes your filliment to clog in the extruder, you may want to add vents to the top for heat to escape. The LEDs will produce heat too.
Man , Adam I love to watch you work on these small projects . It’s so satisfying to watch because I’ve started doing these kind of things myself as well for my major at school . Keep it up man , big love 🫶
19:45 seeing him marking that looks just like the mythbusters blueprints lol
Be mindful you'll have to either vent it or tweak your print heat settings otherwise it might run a but hot :) My advice would be put a HEPA filter exhaust on it :)
If you're willing to commit to keeping the Anycubic printer to the right of the Bambu printers, you could just mount the acrylic filament storage box you built in the top right part of the dehumidified chamber, feeding through the right wall.
I was going to suggest the same thing. Why have the fancy dehumidifier box and not use it?? Of course if you're mostly printing PLA it doesn't really matter.... and if you're going to do ABS, you need ventilation.
And he did
@@AdamMclardy no, he mounted a box on the side, giving it a weird shape. I would have kept it in there main box.
@AdamMclardy not quite, he mounted a new box on the side of the dehumidified cabinet, with a small fan cycling the air. It's probably the next best thing, but just mounting the spool inside the cabinet would have been easier and cleaner.
Loved Mythbusters so much growing up and now getting a second chance watch Adam build stuff. The 3D printing scene is amazing, it's never done! This is going to help you so much to make your idea's reality fairly easy!
Thanks for the making content again!
FYI - If you take a propane torch and heat up the cut edges (after sanding) they will go clear and disappear even more.
Rivets in acrylic tend to crack after time. Use a washer on the backside for the rivet to expand against sandwiching the sheet in between the head and washer. Much less stress on the sheet=less cracking.
I’m so happy we can still watch Adam work.. it’s honestly so great! He’s such an incredible engineer/everything and makes me remember my childhood watching mythbusters.
Thanks Adam for still being you and showing us your work! ❤
I got this printer a month ago. And just set up yesterday. I gotta say. Light years ahead of the Chiron I had. So much easier to setup. My first print was flawless.
Dude. I just started running my Kobra Max last night. I can't stop. YOU ARE AN INSPIRATION. YOU ARE THE COOLEST GUY IN THE WORLD. Just my humble opinion.
Also, my son (11) and I watch ALL of your videos and most of the Myth Busters shows. He too is a big nerd and I love it!
I don't know why but the camera tipping over occasionally always cracks me up XD
Adam you can get high static pressure axial fans from Noctua that come in a variety of sizes, if you ran two 1.5" hoses you could probably pump enough dry air in and out to make it work. They're very efficient and quiet with 150,000 hr MTTF reliability.
The mechanical calculator scene had me in stitches. Made my morning! Thanks for that.
I have 4 printers. I have 3 in 1 room and 1 is a brick in the garage for parts. I thought about an enclosure and I have the tent for my CR10 bookmarked but I haven't bought it. Oh, and the tent has clear panels so you can look through it.
The biggest reasons for an enclosure is to retain heat and to prevent wind from suddenly cooling the part or bed and popping it off. Been there, done that too many times!
The plastic is a bit overmuch. Cool though!
Makes me smile to see Artoo sitting in the background whilst Adam does his thing.
I hope you get tons of fun out of printing, Adam! I'm a 3D modeler and man, getting a 3D printer when you're already decent at 3D is like getting super powers.
14:49 the face Adam made in that pause… am I the only one that half expected him saying in a low voice “yet”?
I love that Adam has gone from a few years ago replying to viewers comments about 3d printing saying that it wasn't for him and his process to now embracing it with full effort with 3 printers and dedicated spaces for them
I just love how he is making a case to stop the airflow moving the printer whilst its printing and yet he is literally building it while he is printing his hat on the machine, wobbling everywhere lol. Adam we love you
I always enjoy 3d printing parts for my 3d printer...
I have the same printer! I love the things I printed. FYI, change the nozzle to a .06mm from the standard .04 and dial in your settings on the software unless you want to plug in the printer to a computer and do it that way. Great video!
wow .06mm what tiny things are you printing?
@@marc_frank LOL, believe it or not the standard nozzle when unboxing it is .04 mm. I bought a variety of different sizes. From .02 to 1.0, I feel the sweet number is .06, you still get great detail and faster. Making Helmets, Armor or anything big.. This has been best printer for the job!
@@winterwarlord I think you mean 0.6?
@@Dahlirama1980 Derp.. Yes 0.6
@@winterwarlord i think i'll try .6 again, too
.8 is a bit too much
You should put some black/yellow warning bands on this thing. You’re going to run into it one day 😮.
Nice enclosure btw! Love the way you build it!
I love how Adam just walks around with the camera in a pov of if we were there 😆 the unstableness helps make it more realistic
just small note, make the filament spool supported by bearings, it will improve your print quality quiet a bit, specially when using large heavy spools - like 3 kg.
I'm glad you got into 3d printing. It is an amazing hobby and tool. I now have 3 printers and want more. I can't wait to see more content about 3d printing.
Adam, if you are using PLA, then I wouldn't worry about dry boxes. I have PLA filament that has been sitting out in the open for 4 years and is still good. The ends get a little brittle but you just break that off until you get down to the good stuff. It's the other filaments like PETG, TPU, ABS and some of the more exotic filaments that you need to keep dry. But really happy to see you so excited about a hobby that I have been into for many years!
I still have an HP LaserJet printer, that’s maybe 15 years old by now. It never clogs, it doesn’t waste ink for cleaning, and it still works.
On my Ender 3 I upgraded the spool holder to one with a ball bearing. I feel it makes a difference as I had to re-calibrate the E steps once I did the upgrade. Considering how long the bowden tube is on your dry box, you probably should do the same.
Do you know where you got the stl.for it? Been looking for one like that
Adam's deep dive, Savage style, in to 3d printing makes me so happy.
Ive been 3d printing for almost 4 years, you can do so many things with it, its great. The overall quality of machines is significantly better than 4 years ago because of printers like the bambu's.
If you're making an enclosure, I highly recommend against Polycarbonate! Especially if you plan on heating it. If you're dead set on acrylic, go THICK 1/8 is too thin. The heated bed will probably be enough to heat the acrylic to the glass transition temperature. It's only 90°C so it's going to get wobbly around 60-70°C I tried using 1/8" acrylic for my first heated chamber and had to rebuild it almost entirely out of wood.
Nice. I built a similar size enclosure for a cleanroom at work. I use 20x20mm Al extrusion as a frame. And then slotted the polycarbonate sheet into the extrusion notches, so no gluing required .
The R2 reflection during the unboxing was a nice touch!
Connect your two dry boxes with a piece of tubing, humidity will balance between them easily.
Super stoked you're getting into 3d printing, Adam! Can't wait to see what cool builds you have ahead!
One of my favorite parts of watching these videos is Adam already finishing his initial plans then going "wait, why can't I do this too?!" because I do the exact same thing when I do any project.
Yay another one day build, thanks Adam and the Tested team.
Adam, look for ionic membrane dehumidifier cell for the dry boxes. It's a Japanese technology that dehumidifies using a membrane that thru hydrolisis separates O and H.
These cells are sold in many different sizes and capacities.
Most important things are: much safer (no heat) and efficient (1 to 5 watts).
Greetings from Brazil!
13:50 So I actually did a similar thing for my big FDM printer. I made an enclosure that's not quite airtight, but fairly air resistant. It will serve mainly as a protector from dust and random disturbances. But I used signmaking coroplast sheets, and framing of 3/4-in square dowel. Added a couple hinges and a magnet to snap it shut, and it was in business. Not as pretty and you can't see through it, but does a certain job well, I think
I just ordered an Anycubic Kobra 2 Max. It arrives in two days. I'm very excited about it.
I have the Anycubic Chiron, which is effectively the predecessor to the Kobra Max. My recommendation for a fairly significant speed boost is to use a larger nozzle than the 0.4mm default. It allows both thicker layers and thicker filament traces (so you need fewer of them for any given wall thickeness). I put a 0.6 on my Chiron.
AHAHAHAHA its good to see Adam getting into 3D printing so much and so quickly, especially considering a few months ago he was still hesitant of it
Adam “getting into” anything soon becomes a Master Class! This oughta be fun and educational. I love how he’s already improving his mega-printer!
Correct me if I am wrong, but pretty easy to get into 3D printing in a big way and quickly when the printers and supplies are given to you by the companies. As a way to market their products it makes perfect sense. Put your machines in the hands of a craftsman with a 6 million plus audience to boost sales. Not knocking it, just saying.
@@doberski6855 im not saying anything about that, its just a general comment that its nice to see adam becoming a 3d printing geek like me and many other so quickly
I got a 3D printer in November 2022 and I'm obsessed with printing functional parts to solve problems and make repairs around my home and workshop. Love it!
@@doberski6855maybe. But nobody NEEDS an x1 carbon. For $100 bucks you can get an ender and a free license to fusion 360 and start making stuff
Genuinely love how even though he could afford industrial 3D printers worth thousands and thousands of dollars, he is more interested in using and sharing his experience with the hobby printers that more people can relate to.
No industrial printer was used in this video and the anycubic only costs 550 dollars
That's my point.@@KZ-yy9pm
Come on, get real. Anycubic sent this (and he'd be a fool not to take advantage of it).
I have two 3D printers. One I put together from parts supplied every two weeks by a magazine subscription. It tool me two years to finish and its small (14x14cm) and very simple. The second was a kit that I assembled in a week with a bigger print bed (20x20 cm) and its a bit more sophisticated. But hte first makes MUCH better prints - because its in an enclosure. Enclosures really make a big difference.
42:40 ... Anyone with 3D printer knows that "blackout". You are doing stuff and just stop and stare at the running printer :D He truly is one of us! Love these videos
I got my first 3d printer in January, and I've since totally torn down and rebuilt it multiple times. It's such a frankenstein right now. What a perfect hobby for people who can't help but upgrade and tinker
Thank you editor and Adam for your humour
2:50 Adam.exe
8:10-8;32 Thinking about Dinner
13:50-14;08 I Will Build My Own
29:12-29;30 very heavy
LOVE my anycubic. The kobra NEO is an excellent starter printer for anyone wanting to try the business!
Keeping filament dry is important but it is not all that critical if you don’t have issues related to that. Same thing with enclosure, if you are printing PLA, you just don’t need it. Just saying in case someone not familiar with the 3d printing get deterred by all these work Adam is doing. That’s Adam’s choice and not a technical requirement.
I love the R2-D2 reflection off the X1C door at the end...
Got my first printer in December, a Prusa Mk3, and now I’m always trying to solve problems via 3D printing 😂 Next project is printing some sort of helmet 🔥
I managed a one piece Mandalorian helmet on my FLSun QQS Pro. 70 hours at .15 layers in silk silver PLA. It looked gorgeous but support cleanup was a mess.
This is the best yt channel ever. Love you Adam. Since the old days. You are great and ofcourse the other ones too
This was a great binge. Thanks for the content on 3d printing.
Love adam savage grew up watching him and so glad hes on RUclips
I actually had one of those printers.
I ultimately gave up on it when I learned it had less in common with a 3D printer and more in common with a small yellow citrus fruit.
The customer service is very good for this company, but getting any free, warranty-covered replacement parts meant a 4-6 week wait, even if the replacement part you got didn't fix the problem, or was defective itself.
After almost 6 months of back-and forth, I decided to just get a new printer.
My Kobra standard was much the same. Heat bed died. About 8 weeks for a new one. Even after months of tuning and countless slicer tweaks, my new Qidi X-Smart3 completely blows it out of the water. Granted it's a much better printer in every way except size and cost a lot more.
A mech engineer suggestion:
Polycarbonate is (mostly) self extinguishing so I both recommend to and build my own stuff like this with it.
Biggest drawback is that it is much harder/more expensive to laser cut.
With Adam getting into the 3D printer space, I would love to see him eventually do a one day build of a Voron. Even if it was an LDO Kit of a 2.4 or something that would be great. Additionally Adam getting into resin printing and coming up with his own wash and cure station would be great, you know he would over engineer it but it would work perfectly for him and his process.
If Adam happens to read this: To properly dry your filament you need to heat it up!!
PLA should be dried at 45C for 2-6 hours to cook off the moisture. Dessicant will stop it from absorbing more moisture but heat will remove the moiture from the filament itself.
adam's 3d printing journey happened at the same time as mine, has been fun watching him deal with the same solutions
Printing is an excellent way to get stuff done!
21:44 tip
when u make that cut add the hinges then do all the setup and then make the next 3 cuts.
The printer has a large build volume but it is still a bed slinger. That means it isn’t very space efficient. It requires a lot of room to swing that bed back and forth. Core XY or similar printers are much more space efficient since the whole frame doesn’t need to be much larger than the bed. Also not having to move a heavy bed around means they can go much faster, that is part of why the Bambu labs printers are so fast. Core XY printers are also much easier to enclose, you just need to attach panels to the sides and top.
I really like that drying filament/keeping it dry is high on your priority list! Imo it gets way too less attention. If your filament is nice and dry your prints won't have any stringing/whisping (if retraction is also calibrated). Just be aware that most companies that produce filament use water to cool the plastic down after extruding it, so freshly bought and sealed filament spools will already have a certain degree of moisture in them. So drying them right away is a good idea. Those ordinary, cheap food dehydraters do a great job in drying the filament :)
@Adam I have always gone with the option of having the Spools above the printer, much like your Bambu does it (that may be why it is so good). This can help reduce print failures as you have gravity working with you when feeding the filament into the print head, basically your printer does not have to work to feed the filament in at all. With the spools below the print head, your printer has to work harder, pulling on the filament and fighting gravity. Just my $0.02
Now I definitely have to build one for my elegoo neptune 3 max, love the build again! tx Adam
i love that he's found his way into 3D printing.
^_^
When I saw the title I was honestly hoping we'd see Adam building a Voron. I think we need Adam building a Voron 2.4 350 kit from LDO Motors in our lives. That'd be a big printer.
I just ordered my first 3D printer and its the Anycubic Kobra Max ... 2 days ago ... can't wait :D
How do you like it after 4 months? Im looking to get one too
@@simbian5900 love it!
Working on getting my money together to get my first x1. Been selling a bunch of old drum gear and whatnot to try to fund it and a couple ams units to expand my home business. Can’t wait til I can get it!
Anycubic makes small USB powered heaters for their resin printers that would fit perfectly inside that spool holder. They don't get warm enough to dry the filament themselves but if you get into things like nylon I'd recommend the food dehydrator approach.