Joint the 3d bust print to make the mouth move and add a finger rig in the base to make it work ... as a one day build episode ... heck work out a way to make some Iron man armour unfold around the bust to make it into iron man ... suggestion for the iron man suit and visibility .. add cell phone cameras to the surface and put small monitors in the brow of the faceplate .. then you get a panorama view by looking up a bit .... add a heat sink and some lap top fans and you get suit cooling by airflow as well .. include a camel back water bottle in the rear (cold water added cooling) and have the mouth piece on the jaw line ... add a mic for speaker mode and of course head phones for hearing ... you can literally then put the controls on the wrist computer as digit sliders with buttons for lights etc ...
30:32 For the most metallic 3D parts you could finish the part and then paint it with a metallic color of your choice. If you want a truly metal finish look into graphite electroplateing or by using a Conductive PLA. You can find it by searching 3D part electroplating or PLA electroplating. If you want a solid metal part you could cast it by making a mold using the 3Dpart. If you just want a metallic PLA I would recommend SILK PLA or a Composites/Metal PLA. Hope This helps. Peace and Love Dude!p.s. Sorry for the duplicate I just want to make sure you got it my message.
So Adam, I believe it's a PLA called SilkPLA that makes all kinds of nice color anodized aluminum PLA. The other option is to actually print in Aluminum and have it Anodized or Power Coated any color you want.
I love that so many people are using my winder design! It’s so cool to see an exact copy of the thing I was iterating on my kitchen table every morning in photos from around the world!
Just didn't work for me! The lead screw didn't traverse the spool properly and so filament built up at the edges of the spool and then dropped loosely into the middle, creating huge, loose loops. Eventually did away with the entire lead screw assembly and layered the filament by hand.
Just checking, were you winding onto an empty Bambu spool? The travel of the leadscrew is 61mm and a larger or smaller target spool won’t wind as nicely. Another thing that helps is to keep some tension on the filament either with the TPU wipers, the sandpaper trick that Adam used or just holding the source spool loosely with your fingers. Otherwise IDK, glad you got something working!
@@GekoPrime You and I have discussed this on Printables, but yes, lots of tension on donor spool, used the wipers too. I tried numerous different sized (width and inside diameter) spools... Bambu, Matterhackers, Voxel. There only ones that worked were the self-printed spools from Bambu and others from Printables, and an original Bambu spool. They only worked when layered by hand. I printed the respooler in PLA.
I think the tensioning system could be a bit better if there is more consistency, it now a bit jerky and it doesnt wind as nice as it could.... maybe add some small weight in between pressing down on the filament so the tension is more constant? Othwerwise very nice design!
While I assume you probably know this, you can set the slicer to only print the support filament for the interface layers, rather than the whole support. That drastically cuts down on the number of filament changes.
No, that results in more filament changes. The filament still needs to be changed at the interface points, except now, the filament changes from support to interface and from interface to part instead of just from support to part.
the end, where he got worried about the noise and then realized it was his build working properly and became excited about it was one of the reasons I like watching him. He's so genuine and it makes it really fun to watch.
@@monsterhunterrivi6303 100%, creators like to create in peace in our own space. Goes the same way for my garage I prefer to wrench alone with some music.
My absolute favorite thing about build videos with Adam is knowing that I am not the only one who spouts random sound bytes while working. "Happy? HAPPY. HAPPY. JOY. JOY." Broke me.
@@MerennulliIt's so weird to read your comment... I pretty much *never* do Swedish Chef jokes (I'm more of a Statler & Waldorf guy) but just a few hours ago I was annoying my wife with my version of him singing "A Thing Called Love" by The Darkness. It was a terrible, terrible thing to behold, and I loved every moment of it, LOL. 😂
Amazing how far 3D printers have come in 10 years. My first home built printer required me to program an Arduino every time I printed. My first commercial printer was $2K and so frustrating to use it mostly sat in my closet. My $100 ender3's are phenomenal.
Agreed. Out of my 5 printers, the $100 Ender 3 Pros are the workhorses. They’re not fancy, no network, no ABL, no touch screen but they work 100% of the time. The $500 and $700 printers are ALWAYS broken down.
I started with a Homers/Tevo Tarantula E3 clone. I ended up having to mod it to death. TheTarantula finally gave up the ghost and I bough a Sovol SV06. The Sovol prints all day and night without any issues. The Sovol requires very little maintinance and mods, and it printed all the parts to bring the Tarantula back to life. The Trarantula already has a MKS Nano V3 board, and it is targeted for a dual belt drive Z axis, a Sailfin extruder, and a Hero Me hot end carrage.
CTC Makerbot clone purchased in 2012 is still running..... I do have to run a warmup cycle though because the set temperature of 215 drops below 200 and you can hear its unhappy. Leave it a minute or so to warmup and overcool and warmup again and its all good. Still use the original makerware software because it just works and does what I need. Although the x3g files are a pain if i forgot a setting have to reslice.
Little suggestion: when you run a filament guide through an enclosure box, leave some of the guide tubing protrude inside the box. It will allow a smooth path, and avoid a potential kink forming where the filament goes through the box wall.
14:30 Adam Savage is my Spirit Animal. Like I tell my boss; not /everything/ needs to be 3D printed. Sometimes all you need is a bit of plywood and a stapler. As for your table solution; have you considered making a pull-out shelf under the two X1s? I did it for mine, with just enough clearance between the shelf and the top for a cutting mat and another printplate. Pull it out, put your full plate on it to clear while popping the empty plate into the printer.
dude are you 3d printing? you probably should. you can print complete weaving/knitting/tube? weaving machines! i don't do that but they look pretty awesome.
My absolute favorite part about Adams newfound love of 3D printing is his whole-hog approach. I'm sure that for everything we're seeing here, there's hours and hours of him reading and learning and watching youtube videos from more experienced enthusiasts before ever touching a printer. It makes me feel more comfortable in my own habits of making myself a practical encyclopedia of something I am interested in before ever touching a single part of it.
I miss the thing with the white or silver pen on blue paper. A quality of life thing though: I have put the bin for the scraps on the side. I wouldn't put it behind there - who will go back there to empty it?
its taken me learning cad for the last 5-6 months (i still suck at it btw) but now that i have... i notice i can now also sketch things freehand in 3d ... and visualize them in my head too... a LOT easier. i would personally say that its worth doing just to expand your brain and make it work in new ways. language centers are important for sure... this is a new visual language you teach yourself.
Adam, doubt you will see this, but thank you. Growing up I couldn't experiment much. Farm life kept me too busy, when your Mythbusters came out, it became a family staple for our house because we all loved the science behind it. Now as an adult, i try keep the child like joy and wonder you have for building and making. Thank you for fostering that in literally millions of people. I built my first blacksmith forge and lit it off.. had a "you" moment where i had to check if i was missing an eyebrow.. I was. Learned my lesson that day lol. Fun thing to do, 3d print inverse shapes and cast into them wax for molds (easier to sand the print lines out of wax than plastic). I sand cast off those to make metal busts/parts. Take care from a life long fan.
So far my favorite metallic has been Hatchbox. I have a metallic gold that I used to great effect. Use very small layers, .16, .12 if using the .4 mm nozzle. Since the hose connectors are a relatively small part you can go as fine as you want and it not take 8 days. Oh, and print the perfect waste basket, using vase mode.
30:32 For the most metallic 3D parts you could finish the part and then paint it with a metallic color of your choice. If you want a truly metal finish look into graphite electroplateing or by using a Conductive PLA. You can find it by searching 3D part electroplating or PLA electroplating. If you want a solid metal part you could cast it by making a mold using the 3Dpart. If you just want a metallic PLA I would recommend SILK PLA or a Composites/Metal PLA. Hope This helps. Peace and Love Dude!
be careful with SILK filaments, AIUI they have a lot of additives (tpu?) that make their layer adhesion awful. you have to print them very slow and very hot.
@@shanemshortI've never found any issue with silk materials. I usually run all PLA at 200°C at the same speed and get good results for standard and silk.
@@kordellgreen9794 Clearly you didn't pay much attention to the plate because there's *no way* the auto-arrange capability of Bambu Studio would give you that arrangement. Notice the parts nested inside other parts? And some parts overhanging other parts? While I haven't actually loaded the .3mf file in Bambu Studio to know for sure I wouldn't be surprised in the least if Bambu Studio complains with "errors" about multiple parts being too close.
@@kordellgreen9794Ah, I don't have one so I have to nest my CNC stuff myself. Printing the one part at an angle within a nesting algorithm is still impressive .
@@Kloberman Bambu Studio pops up errors for all sorts of shit that will work just fine. You can adjust the maximum spacing between parts anyway in every slicer I've used. PrusaSlicer's auto arrange will do everything you just described, like nesting parts inside or overhanging others.
Amazing video. Your panicked "pause, what was that!" look on your face at 30:13 mark was priceless and I guarantee everyone that is into 3d printing has had that exact same look when they heard something that isnt normal at all when their printers are going. Happy Printing!
You don’t need glue with the textured plate, one of the main advantages is you don’t need glue. The material sticks when hot but releases when the plate cools, so make sure you let the plate cool.
I was thinking the same thing, I don't have that many prints on mine yet but I have done some flat objects with both PLA and ASA that were as wide as the entire plate and didn't have any problems with thim popping off until the plate cooled and then they just slid off
Yeah I kept thinking why TF is he needing a scraping table. You don't need to scrape with PEI just wash with soap and water when it starts not sticking.
@@MattBruman yeah all the lines should just pop off or brush off when cool and you shouldn't need to clean it often either. How did he manage to buy a textured plate, and think it is the best plate without really knowing how to use it? If you put glue on it, it is just like any of the other bambu plates.
Glue really makes it more reliable. I only apply once a week and keep machines on all day. I will never glance in to see if my 7.00 worth of filament is properly attached again. Even if it works 99 percent of the time that is 3-5 items a week for me and I don't need that for 30 seconds of stick time every seven days
it's just cheap insurance. Especially if you're using oddball filaments I've had plenty pull off early on the X1C especially if it's near the edges because I don't think it heats the same out there.
I switched to textured pei plates while printing face shields during the pandemic. I quickly realized what a no-brainer it was to have an extra sheet on hand. I would simply swap plates and put the printed plate on my post-processing bench and then start the next print. I’m no longer in a rush to clean the plate and I let my prints cool naturally. Keeping my plates rotating and having proper time to clean without damaging the pei, I haven’t had to buy new sheets since. It’s honestly the best upgrade I’ve ever done.
Adam if you load the same filament in those empty bays of the AMS it can automatically switch to the other same filament when it runs out and continue printing so you don't waste time changing out and resuming. 👍
If you wanted to get really fancy with the "scrape table" (that's what I call my version of this), you could route the surface of the table with the shape of the various plates you have. That way the plates drop in and are flush with the table surface, and you don't have to hold them while scraping.
This sounds just like such an Adam thing to do! This combined with something like Arctyrus's comment about a pull-out shelf under the X1's would be the ultimate! ❤👍
What about a slide out shelf, with a recess to hold the bed, that has a scraper fitted on the edge so all you have to do is place the bed on it, push it in and out and the filament is removed!
Damm... 22:05 "Who needs to get fancy?" . It shows how much Adam got experienced. He on the first seasons was all about fancy solutions. I like that middle place.
The blue anodized aluminum color is almost impossible to match with a color filament. The yellow, red, purple and green are easy to replicate using many different brands of silk PLA without having to sand and paint.
This made me wonder if it's possible to buy or make powdered anodized aluminum. You could then mix it into the plastic or maybe use it with some adhesive for a coating.
I've tried a few, trying to get a decent blue metallic look. Most are way too light colored. The only thing I've tried that was close was Geeetech PLA Royal Blue. If you print it too fast, like most silks, it can end up not being very shiny at all. Your mileage may vary. I print silks on an old printer that runs around 60mm/s. My newer printer that runs at 250mm/s+ usually makes it look dull unless I slow way down on the outside walls.
These are my favourite type of videos on your channel, they are just very relaxing for me to watch, I don't even do any 3d printing or anything like that, but still really enjoy watching you do this kind of work. Thank you.
The real impressive part of this is how fast and well you drew up that 3d sketch of the funnel. Started designing my own parts recently and Im so awful at drawing that I just draw a bunch of 2D POVs. Gonna try to apply some techniques you used in that sketch in the future
If you already have orthographic views, you should practice with them to make isometric views. Once you do a few of them, you'll quickly get the hang of sketching isometric views by hand. Start with simple designs then do a few that are more complex. This isn't art, so really if you can create the orthographic views, there's no reason you draw the iso views up front once you understand how to draw in 3 planes. You're actually doing the same thing except you're drawing the top view along a 60 degee axis at your origin. The front views are exactly the same except circle are ovals. This stuff used to be taught in drafting classes. Now nobody knows how to make drawings because of automation with with 3D modeling. It's a shame because people can't make quick sketch on bar napkins. When I was young, I alway checked to see if I had napkins in my pockets from a night of drinking. Maybe watch a few videos on converting orthographic to isometric. ruclips.net/video/IT2_c6jQrz4/видео.html&ab_channel=ADTWStudy You could also practice on Iso graph paper. www.amazon.com/Isometric-Notebook-Equilateral-Triangles-Measuring/dp/1096640686/
Whoa .. it's crazy that you released this video today...... I was just looking at getting a Bambu Lab P1S Combo 3D Printer and Eibos Polyphemus filament dryer, since I live in close proximity to others and it's not possible to do a resin unit.
Have recently gotten an A1 it's a super cool moment to watch Adam going through the same problem solving I've been doing: Solutions for keeping the filament dry, poop collection, etc. It's basic stuff that you realize you need to handle when you get into the hobby, but I've been enjoying solving these things in large part by using the printer itself.
That was a fascinating watch. Thank you! Seeing your issue with the plates from your Bambu printers gives me an idea for a remedy to minor problem I have. I use a Sovol printer and the hotbed is massive. It takes a long time to cool down so I can detach a completed print (depending on the material - PETG is clingy until it cools). Like you said, if the printer's not printing it's wasting time. But the solution is easy - I'll get another PEI plate. As soon as one print is done I'll take the plate out to cool and put in the other one so I can start the next print. It's like baking plastic cookies!
Polyalchemy Elixir PLA will be by far the best Anodized aluminum filament for you. I tossed a small part printed in their silver to a coworker (also an engineer) and they were scared for a second because they expected that they would be catching a part of commensurate weight as though it had been made of aluminum. The blue is a great anodized aluminum color, I've never used red, but everything I've read about red [silk] PLA is that it comes out more pinkish. I'm not sure why the blue and silver and most other colors are so vibrant and yet the red is almost pink, but it seems to be an battle between enough dye to make red and enough additive to make it shiny.
Those 12 volt Makita drills are simply the best. I have 2 complete sets and I use them daily. It's a shame that they don't make them anymore. I rebuild them if they fail. 👍👍
Try only making the interface layer use support material. That will result in fewer filament changes because it will make the supports out of the regular filament until the last few support layers, where it touches the print. This also saves on using more support material.
I think that is what he explained. The problem is if you have complex parts. The support filament is good if you have simple overhangs that are mostly just horizontal, as they only require a few layers with the support interface but if you have steep angled or curved overhangs or lots of overhangs at different heights then your support interface is on a lot of layers and hence need lots of filament changes.
Every time I watch Adams videos and see his shop. I get so jealous and envious. It’s funny really. We don’t ever think a few things. 1 he was a tv star builder (needs lots of stuff). 2 he has been doing and collecting these tools for decades. 3. It’s his life it really is. Expectations versus reality is huge! And he’s constantly working and making money off his projects. Baby steps people baby steps. Gotta start small to be huge! And I just saw he changed his ending. I miss the old one!
This man loves dry filament. Tbf I don't know how my filament in unaffected.. but I run a print farm in the UK in a room above a cellar. The gaps in the floor boards are so big I can see down into the cellar which is open to the outside, there's no sealed door on it because it used to be used as a barrel store with a big slope ramp. The house is from the 1700s so that's why. Anyway my filament is just sitting on a shelf and humidity is 65-75 indoors in the summer and my filament is just fine?? PETG and ABS. Some of the lesser used colours are a year or more old but they print absolutely flawlessly on the x1c still. I have invested in a dehumidifer for this winter but that's mainly for my cardboard packaging and papers as I can feel it get damper over winter
I've been wondering this too, then I left a roll out in the open for about a year and it started printing like crap and getting ground up by the bowden extruder gear, might not be as noticeable if you use a direct drive extruder but it does seem to get softer
On the other side I am in Scotland with similar humidity and I have to dry quite a lot of filament, even PLA sometimes but especially nylons, polycarbonate, PETG and especially TPU.
From what I understand from watching many a video, there's not really a concern with needing to try and keep it dry, especially with how quickly he seems to use it. Unless he's using something that absolutely gobbles up water, PLA can be in an average environment for months (Think I've heard up to a couple years from a couple makers). PETG is pickier for sure, and his hotbox is perfect for those.
It's never been easier to get up and running. You can get a high quality printer for a fraction of the cost it would have cost you just a few years ago. Most of the modern printers have sensors that fix the pain points of setting up a printer. It's at the point now where you plug it in a press print.
I bought a Lightyear Garolite (G10) sheet for my X1C. Its phenomenal in its ability to stick to anything without glue that I've thrown at it while it's heated but release with barely a touch when cool. ABS, PLA, PETG, TPU, everything I've used so far is perfect and the surface finish on the part that contacts the build plate is perfectly smooth. It uses the Smooth PEI Plate / High Temp Plate setting in Bambu Slicer.
bambu now has a setting so instead of purging and wasting the material you can have it print something else that you don't care what the color is. Pretty cool option
(Adam roughly sketching a waste filament chute design) Me - "Oh cool. He's probably going to pass it off to someone to mock up in CAD and somehow print in pieces on the Bambu." (Cut to Adam working with plywood in the shape of his sketch) Me - "Ah. I forgot this was Adam for a moment. That one's on me."
@@conorstewart2214 Totally agree. I was just in the 3D printing headspace given the title of the video. Then I realized how big it ended up needing to be once he did install it and thought "yeah, he chose the right approach."
The plate table could have been designed to be bigger than the tray, so the scraps fall into gaps around the edge. Add sides with a cleanout and it becomes its own trash bin.
It was probably very difficult for him to get organized, and I'll bet being organized is one of his top priorities, he probably organizes religiously, if ADHD person starts slacking off in that regard, the downward spiral is that things pile up very quickly and once they're in a pile, procrastination begins, and more piles appear, nothing gets done...
I've only been 3D printing for a couple months now but one thing I've learned is with that type of build plate, don't scrape parts off it unless you have no other option! You can usually let it cool completely and they'll pop right off! You may have to flex it a little bit but if you scrape it, it usually means your z offset is too low. Scraping the plate can cause damage to the plate and you'll be replacing them prematurely.
Yeah, I cringed when Adam started talking about scraping a PEI sheet. The whole purpose behind coated flex plates is to *let the print cool* then *flex* the plate to pop off the print. I've used PLA, PETG, and TPU on PEI flex sheets with no trouble. (TIP: The trick to getting small TPU parts off a flex sheet is to remove them while they're still warm.) Only very rarely have I ever had to use a tool to remove a part, and even then, I just used a thin-edged plastic tool to get an edge lifted to start the removal process. PEI is a game changer - no glue, no scraping. A quick wipe down with alcohol between prints keeps it clean. When prints stop sticking, going over the surface with some fine sandpaper does the trick to refresh the plate.
Now your scraping table needs its own chute so you can scrape right off the back and into a trash can. A scoop on top of the chute would keep material from flying off across the shop. A scraper pocket on the side may keep it from migrating also. Great episode!
The textured PEI plates are just *awesome* for PLA and I wouldn't want to be without them. My recommendation would be to have two for each machine, and take the one you're not using and wash it in the sink with dish soap and a stiff plastic brush. Any time I'm having adhesion issues, that fixes it. No glue stick required.
Something that might help with the PEI sheet cleaning table is some sort of heatsink top surface to cool the plate quickly before you start removing prints. I usually use the metal chassis of our front-loading clothes drier since that is near by to my printer. For your table, maybe a heatsink with short fins, mounted with the fins down. And a blower on the side with duct to blow air between the fins. For power, use an adapter for the batteries that you use on your handheld power tools. I don't know if I explained it well...
you can electroplate 3d prints, its best on resin prints though but you can also do it on fdm prints too if you don't mind the extra work to smooth it out. Using carbon or graphite spray and coating that in copper then going from copper to any other metal you can do that. using nickel and some bluing compound could make it look good.
For the anodized aluminum look I would mix some resin with the pigment mixed in and paint it onto the 3d printed backing. Resin with mica powder I think would look very close to what you're looking for. OR you could use the printer to make a mold and cast the parts completely out of resin if you need super sharp edges.
One of the most amazing upgrades I have done for my 3D printer was first a ruby and now a diamond nozzle. The diamond is weirdly enough thermally more conductive than the brass that surrounds it and delivers amazing print quality, even with abrasive or otherwise complcated filaments. I can recommend them wholeheartedly, even though they are somewhat pricey (~$40 for ruby and $120 for diamond). Just like the diamond tipped saw blade, the diamond printer nozzle is an amazing upgrade.
nearly gave up on respooling filament and decided to give this one a try. so glad I did it works great and I haven't got the base mounted properly its that good. I even printed the bearings in PLA and they are doing great! thanks for the recommendation, I no longer have to turn my nose up at off brand filaments.
I love the moment you heard a new noise in your space and wondered what it was only to realize it's the new poop bucket and funnel system you created. 🤣🤣 I'm new to 3D printing with my A1 but I am in love and love watching what you do with 3D printing.
Cool that the winder has a "level wind" like an old bait caster fishing reel! The Bambu A1-mini (and maybe the A1?) ship with the textured plate. I've had my printer less than a week and I love it. Next week I'll start with some CAD.
Re adonized aluminium finish on PLA. I treat all my prints to paint. Some looking like red anodiced aluminium too. My favorite approach for that is: 1. sand, fill, prime the print 2. spraypaint shiny black. I use to wet-sand the black with 1600-2000 grit to near mirror sheen - but then, I'm just fussy. 3. airbrush with a really good silver 4. airbrush clear red on top 5. spraypaint 2-3 layers of clear (glossy), let it cure well between layers 6. wet-sand with 1600-5000 grit and polish with novus glass number 2 For priming, black and clear I use automotive paint and spraygun rather than cans For silver, clear red I use solvent based acrylics for airbrush, by SMS (Australian based company) This works the same in blue or any other clear color available. The result is a beautiful metallic, coming close to adonized aluminium. I have a blaster on my channel here, which shows the effect nicely.
Glad to see an Anycubic machine next to the bambus. I have an x1C but my first printer was an Anycubic Predator and I wouldn't change the struggle of learning to print with a printer like that for anything.
Cool stuff, Adam! I just got a new Bambu Lab P1S a few months ago and I love it. But I have a lot of filament on spools that don't fit into the AMS, so that spool winder will come in handy when I can get around to making it. I also really like the big dry box storage cabinet. My current setup is a single-spool dryer and a plastic Hefty bin with Damp-Rid and a bunch of dessicant packets in it, which seems to be working fine for PLA and PETG so far. I love seeing people solve problems with simple and practical solutions. Keep 'em coming!
Awesome build Adam! I appreciate you showing your sketching out the funnel. Definitely helps viewers like myself learn to improve their own making processes 👍
Hello Adam, I bought one of the Bambu Labs X1C with the AMS. I can't tell you how impressed with the performance of this printer. I had been struggling with my Kywoo 3D Tycoon Max trying to get acceptable quality for dimension parts and I could get there but for an EE the tweaking was getting painful. The X1C just plain works! I am doing prints with PLA+ and PETG (I never could get PETG to work well with the Kywoo) and it is amazing how they turn out. I just printed some simple 7.25 X 4 X 1.5 inch deep trays out of white PLA+ and the finish looks like an injection molded part. I had to get the magnifying glass to see the evidence of the print process. All of the parts I have made thus far were printed at ludicrous speed so I really need to see how well it does when I slow it by 1/2 or 2/3rds (the speed of my old printer). If I I slowed my old one to sloth speed I don't think it could even come close to the X1C. The only real texture on the finished parts is on the bottom from contact with the PEI build plate (that plate works amazingly well glue or no glue so far) the plate actually leaves a really nice textured finish. I have a high temp plate, but I have not used it yet. Next is to try some persnickety ABS or something with carbon fiber in it. Next I want to try some really small parts like spacers for 2-56 and 4-40 machine screws and see how they work out. It seems that the local hardware store never has the size I need and I need to stop cutting up all of my BIC pens with the pipe cutter for spacers. Well once you have had the X1C's for a few months how about bringing all of us up to date on your observations. Sam W3OHM P.S. I almost forgot. Thank you so very much for doing the unboxing and introduction to this printer. Your video pushed me over the edge and I ordered mine after watching your video!!
Hey Adam you can tell the printer to just print the interface layers in that support stuff. So you print your support structure in the standard PLA or whathaveyou, all in one layer and one go and only when you come to the contact surface, which is around two layers thick or something, you switch to the special support material. It saves you special support filament, it saves a lot of purged material and it saves you time for all the changing and purging
As always great! As an retired engineer, it is great to watch you think/design/create. I think clutter is the mark of genius at work. Your clutter is organized and mine is not. I blame mine on lack of space. But there is never enough space! 😄 I am about to buy a BBL P1S and upgrade with hardened parts ( I wish they sold that as P1T?). That is my budget issue. I get what I need with AMS for about $800 and that is as much as I can afford.
For your anodized aluminum request, there are a few solutions I can think of. 1) try looking into silk PLA. It has a metallic like finish with at a pretty affordable price. 2) HTPLA is PLA filament that has small particles of metal in it. The parts that it prints can be sanded and polished to have a metal like finish. 3) I saw recently about plating your print using electrolysis. That a bit more involved but still a cool concept. They used a conductive filament for the print and then set up a bath of whatever material they wanted to coat it in. Hope this helps!
First shiny or anodized looking pla you'll be looking into silk pla filaments. A few caveats to know silk filament on fast printers is that you might have to slow down your top speed to avoid getting a matte finish in areas. And generally overhangs don't print as well on silk filament. Also silk filament can have a lot weaker layer bonding.
Adam, I have been using a PEI flex plate and never had to scrape a print off. A simple flex ans the part pops right off ! EVERY TIME ..... Keep having fun ! ( from an old dog still learning new tricks ).
Long time fan first time caller! 1st mythbusters was influential in my decision to peruse a steam career! 2nd small suggestion if you keep your scrape table there and a bucket under it for waste why not just redirect your funnels in the back to land the purged filament and the scraped waste all in the same bin. Plus! You won’t have to climb behind the printers.
You’re inspiring generations of creators. Right now I’m thinking how do I apply or bring this to the world I work in which is software love your videos never stop don’t stop the world needs you more of the people that believe in what you believe in I love all you talk about sanding down three stones to make a flat surface and to gauges and sources of truth. Think that’s so important. Love the science, Geekiness and the DIY ethos. Of course you have a shop to die for. Above all we see how you strive for perfection, which seems like a simple statement, but when one actually strives for it, and works towards it, watched you like sand down your little multi grip first thing,there’s just some rough spots and you just kept on sanding and making that vice better.
PASTAMATIC!!! I made one on my P1S several weeks ago when I had an Oopsie with trying to move a cardboard spool onto a plastic one. The 20 hour print time is justified for each time I don’t have to spend all night winding a spool by hand again.
30% humidity might pass on pla but silk pla abs or nylon I keep at 10% with nothing more than a husky waterproof 12 gallon tote and a bag of silica. Holds 12 spools and takes up little space
Bambu Lab X1C 3D printer: www.matterhackers.com/store/l/bambu-lab-x1-carbon-combo-3d-printer/sk/M80GDCL5?aff=7553
MANITYA Small Dehumidifier for Bedroom 580 sq ft: amzn.to/473UXFw
PLA filament: www.matterhackers.com/store/c/mh-build-series-pla?aff=7553
Filament winder design: www.printables.com/model/466883-pastamatic-filament-spool-winder-for-bambu-lab-x1c
Anycubic Kobra Max: www.anycubic.com/products/kobra-max
Adam's 3D printer farm build: ruclips.net/video/taeS72yO__k/видео.html
Joint the 3d bust print to make the mouth move and add a finger rig in the base to make it work ... as a one day build episode ... heck work out a way to make some Iron man armour unfold around the bust to make it into iron man ... suggestion for the iron man suit and visibility .. add cell phone cameras to the surface and put small monitors in the brow of the faceplate .. then you get a panorama view by looking up a bit .... add a heat sink and some lap top fans and you get suit cooling by airflow as well .. include a camel back water bottle in the rear (cold water added cooling) and have the mouth piece on the jaw line ... add a mic for speaker mode and of course head phones for hearing ... you can literally then put the controls on the wrist computer as digit sliders with buttons for lights etc ...
30:32 For the most metallic 3D parts you could finish the part and then paint it with a metallic color of your choice. If you want a truly metal finish look into graphite electroplateing or by using a Conductive PLA. You can find it by searching 3D part electroplating or PLA electroplating. If you want a solid metal part you could cast it by making a mold using the 3Dpart. If you just want a metallic PLA I would recommend SILK PLA or a Composites/Metal PLA. Hope This helps. Peace and Love Dude!p.s. Sorry for the duplicate I just want to make sure you got it my message.
“No need to get fancy” creates a table with four two piece legs recessed into the top 🤣
Somebody please tell Adam what a "Bowden Tube" is.
So Adam, I believe it's a PLA called SilkPLA that makes all kinds of nice color anodized aluminum PLA.
The other option is to actually print in Aluminum and have it Anodized or Power Coated any color you want.
I love that so many people are using my winder design! It’s so cool to see an exact copy of the thing I was iterating on my kitchen table every morning in photos from around the world!
Just didn't work for me! The lead screw didn't traverse the spool properly and so filament built up at the edges of the spool and then dropped loosely into the middle, creating huge, loose loops. Eventually did away with the entire lead screw assembly and layered the filament by hand.
Just checking, were you winding onto an empty Bambu spool? The travel of the leadscrew is 61mm and a larger or smaller target spool won’t wind as nicely. Another thing that helps is to keep some tension on the filament either with the TPU wipers, the sandpaper trick that Adam used or just holding the source spool loosely with your fingers. Otherwise IDK, glad you got something working!
@@GekoPrime You and I have discussed this on Printables, but yes, lots of tension on donor spool, used the wipers too. I tried numerous different sized (width and inside diameter) spools... Bambu, Matterhackers, Voxel. There only ones that worked were the self-printed spools from Bambu and others from Printables, and an original Bambu spool. They only worked when layered by hand. I printed the respooler in PLA.
What was your reason for creating it? I just throw the whole 3KG spool on my printer - does yours maxx out at 1KG rolls, or something else?
I think the tensioning system could be a bit better if there is more consistency, it now a bit jerky and it doesnt wind as nice as it could.... maybe add some small weight in between pressing down on the filament so the tension is more constant?
Othwerwise very nice design!
While I assume you probably know this, you can set the slicer to only print the support filament for the interface layers, rather than the whole support. That drastically cuts down on the number of filament changes.
Up Voting this bad boy, its suck a great time saver (and the really expensive support filament)
Also when printing PLA you can use any regular PETG as support instead of that expensive PLA support filament.
That's what Adam said when he explained it, I think!
No, that results in more filament changes. The filament still needs to be changed at the interface points, except now, the filament changes from support to interface and from interface to part instead of just from support to part.
@@gownerjonesyou're forgetting about the perg time it saves.
the end, where he got worried about the noise and then realized it was his build working properly and became excited about it was one of the reasons I like watching him. He's so genuine and it makes it really fun to watch.
It's fun how animated Adam gets when he's excited!
The way Adam works all alone, with just the camera for company gives me real "The Martian" vibes.
He makes everyone else seem lazy. 😆
he has no friends thats why
@@romoalex i highly doubt that XD but people like him tend to work best alone, or just working while explaining it on the go.
@@monsterhunterrivi6303 100%, creators like to create in peace in our own space. Goes the same way for my garage I prefer to wrench alone with some music.
My absolute favorite thing about build videos with Adam is knowing that I am not the only one who spouts random sound bytes while working. "Happy? HAPPY. HAPPY. JOY. JOY." Broke me.
Definitely wasn't expecting a Ren and Stimpy cameo
I was not ready for the random Ren and Stimpy "Happy happy joy joy" and no, you're not alone, I do this kind of random stuff too. 🤣
Same. For me it's renditions of songs in the voice of Swedish Chef from the Muppets.
@@MerennulliIt's so weird to read your comment... I pretty much *never* do Swedish Chef jokes (I'm more of a Statler & Waldorf guy) but just a few hours ago I was annoying my wife with my version of him singing "A Thing Called Love" by The Darkness. It was a terrible, terrible thing to behold, and I loved every moment of it, LOL. 😂
Nobody Expects a Ren and Stimpy Cameo, its like the Spanish Inquisition...@@brookep1
For those interested in the fillament winder, you can print ball bearings using some airsoft bbs (6mm) or brass bbs (4.5mm).
Amazing how far 3D printers have come in 10 years. My first home built printer required me to program an Arduino every time I printed. My first commercial printer was $2K and so frustrating to use it mostly sat in my closet. My $100 ender3's are phenomenal.
Agreed. Out of my 5 printers, the $100 Ender 3 Pros are the workhorses. They’re not fancy, no network, no ABL, no touch screen but they work 100% of the time. The $500 and $700 printers are ALWAYS broken down.
Same the only thing I wish is that it could do 500mm/s lmao. How fast is yours?
@@c1ph3rpunkI went with the new Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo and I can't get good prints out of it for the life of me
I started with a Homers/Tevo Tarantula E3 clone. I ended up having to mod it to death. TheTarantula finally gave up the ghost and I bough a Sovol SV06. The Sovol prints all day and night without any issues. The Sovol requires very little maintinance and mods, and it printed all the parts to bring the Tarantula back to life. The Trarantula already has a MKS Nano V3 board, and it is targeted for a dual belt drive Z axis, a Sailfin extruder, and a Hero Me hot end carrage.
CTC Makerbot clone purchased in 2012 is still running..... I do have to run a warmup cycle though because the set temperature of 215 drops below 200 and you can hear its unhappy. Leave it a minute or so to warmup and overcool and warmup again and its all good. Still use the original makerware software because it just works and does what I need. Although the x3g files are a pain if i forgot a setting have to reslice.
Little suggestion: when you run a filament guide through an enclosure box, leave some of the guide tubing protrude inside the box. It will allow a smooth path, and avoid a potential kink forming where the filament goes through the box wall.
14:30 Adam Savage is my Spirit Animal. Like I tell my boss; not /everything/ needs to be 3D printed. Sometimes all you need is a bit of plywood and a stapler. As for your table solution; have you considered making a pull-out shelf under the two X1s? I did it for mine, with just enough clearance between the shelf and the top for a cutting mat and another printplate. Pull it out, put your full plate on it to clear while popping the empty plate into the printer.
As a hobbyist seamstress I like that 3d printists are making bobbin winders
dude are you 3d printing? you probably should. you can print complete weaving/knitting/tube? weaving machines! i don't do that but they look pretty awesome.
I like the design aesthetic of the winder.
Additionally I like the color choice you used, looks like old time brass-ish metal parts.
I thought the same, makes me want to make one just to watch it in action. Maybe get it to wind/unwind some nice metallic thread?
I can only imagine being in a shop with Adam. Whenever you hear the impromptu percussion you know it’s serious brainstorming time
My absolute favorite part about Adams newfound love of 3D printing is his whole-hog approach. I'm sure that for everything we're seeing here, there's hours and hours of him reading and learning and watching youtube videos from more experienced enthusiasts before ever touching a printer. It makes me feel more comfortable in my own habits of making myself a practical encyclopedia of something I am interested in before ever touching a single part of it.
THAT’S GREAT AND ALL, BUT ADAM NEEDS TO STOP SCREAMING IN HIS VIDEOS. THEY ARE WAY TOO LOUD.
@@GardenGuy1942says the person shouting about it...
This is the way. People often forget that we spend years perfecting and failing in order to complete projects and troubleshoot quickly down the road.
It's awesome that Adam is still making stuff and very clearly is still passionate about it. It's wholesome and motivating, amazing video!!
I love seeing people sketch stuff when they know what they're doing. 14:00 was awesome to see.
It bothered me way too much when Adam mis-drew the last diagonal line, very glad he finally noticed. :)
I miss the thing with the white or silver pen on blue paper. A quality of life thing though: I have put the bin for the scraps on the side. I wouldn't put it behind there - who will go back there to empty it?
@@kataseikohow will go back there to empty it? adam savage will.
yea i'm really glad he included it
its taken me learning cad for the last 5-6 months (i still suck at it btw) but now that i have... i notice i can now also sketch things freehand in 3d ... and visualize them in my head too... a LOT easier. i would personally say that its worth doing just to expand your brain and make it work in new ways. language centers are important for sure... this is a new visual language you teach yourself.
Adam, doubt you will see this, but thank you. Growing up I couldn't experiment much. Farm life kept me too busy, when your Mythbusters came out, it became a family staple for our house because we all loved the science behind it. Now as an adult, i try keep the child like joy and wonder you have for building and making. Thank you for fostering that in literally millions of people.
I built my first blacksmith forge and lit it off.. had a "you" moment where i had to check if i was missing an eyebrow.. I was. Learned my lesson that day lol. Fun thing to do, 3d print inverse shapes and cast into them wax for molds (easier to sand the print lines out of wax than plastic). I sand cast off those to make metal busts/parts. Take care from a life long fan.
So far my favorite metallic has been Hatchbox. I have a metallic gold that I used to great effect. Use very small layers, .16, .12 if using the .4 mm nozzle. Since the hose connectors are a relatively small part you can go as fine as you want and it not take 8 days. Oh, and print the perfect waste basket, using vase mode.
I highly recommend Bambu Lab's Textured PEI plate.
No glue needed and great adhesion!
I love the Ren and Stimpy happy happy joy joy. It's a joy to watch Adam work.
This! 😁
That line actually came from the movie "Demolition Man" with Stallone.
Man, I missed his doodles from mythbusters. Watching him draw plans always brings me back.
30:32 For the most metallic 3D parts you could finish the part and then paint it with a metallic color of your choice. If you want a truly metal finish look into graphite electroplateing or by using a Conductive PLA. You can find it by searching 3D part electroplating or PLA electroplating. If you want a solid metal part you could cast it by making a mold using the 3Dpart. If you just want a metallic PLA I would recommend SILK PLA or a Composites/Metal PLA. Hope This helps. Peace and Love Dude!
be careful with SILK filaments, AIUI they have a lot of additives (tpu?) that make their layer adhesion awful. you have to print them very slow and very hot.
@@shanemshortI've never found any issue with silk materials. I usually run all PLA at 200°C at the same speed and get good results for standard and silk.
You definitely undersold the nesting done on that print. That was so nicely stacked in there, so impressive.
all you do is hit auto arrange lol not too impressive
@@kordellgreen9794 Clearly you didn't pay much attention to the plate because there's *no way* the auto-arrange capability of Bambu Studio would give you that arrangement. Notice the parts nested inside other parts? And some parts overhanging other parts? While I haven't actually loaded the .3mf file in Bambu Studio to know for sure I wouldn't be surprised in the least if Bambu Studio complains with "errors" about multiple parts being too close.
@@kordellgreen9794Ah, I don't have one so I have to nest my CNC stuff myself. Printing the one part at an angle within a nesting algorithm is still impressive .
@@Kloberman Bambu Studio pops up errors for all sorts of shit that will work just fine. You can adjust the maximum spacing between parts anyway in every slicer I've used. PrusaSlicer's auto arrange will do everything you just described, like nesting parts inside or overhanging others.
I love the ingenuity of the solutions Adam is adding to the 3d
printing farm he has
Amazing video. Your panicked "pause, what was that!" look on your face at 30:13 mark was priceless and I guarantee everyone that is into 3d printing has had that exact same look when they heard something that isnt normal at all when their printers are going. Happy Printing!
You don’t need glue with the textured plate, one of the main advantages is you don’t need glue. The material sticks when hot but releases when the plate cools, so make sure you let the plate cool.
I was thinking the same thing, I don't have that many prints on mine yet but I have done some flat objects with both PLA and ASA that were as wide as the entire plate and didn't have any problems with thim popping off until the plate cooled and then they just slid off
Yeah I kept thinking why TF is he needing a scraping table. You don't need to scrape with PEI just wash with soap and water when it starts not sticking.
@@MattBruman yeah all the lines should just pop off or brush off when cool and you shouldn't need to clean it often either.
How did he manage to buy a textured plate, and think it is the best plate without really knowing how to use it? If you put glue on it, it is just like any of the other bambu plates.
Glue really makes it more reliable. I only apply once a week and keep machines on all day. I will never glance in to see if my 7.00 worth of filament is properly attached again. Even if it works 99 percent of the time that is 3-5 items a week for me and I don't need that for 30 seconds of stick time every seven days
it's just cheap insurance. Especially if you're using oddball filaments I've had plenty pull off early on the X1C especially if it's near the edges because I don't think it heats the same out there.
I switched to textured pei plates while printing face shields during the pandemic. I quickly realized what a no-brainer it was to have an extra sheet on hand. I would simply swap plates and put the printed plate on my post-processing bench and then start the next print. I’m no longer in a rush to clean the plate and I let my prints cool naturally. Keeping my plates rotating and having proper time to clean without damaging the pei, I haven’t had to buy new sheets since. It’s honestly the best upgrade I’ve ever done.
Adam if you load the same filament in those empty bays of the AMS it can automatically switch to the other same filament when it runs out and continue printing so you don't waste time changing out and resuming. 👍
If you wanted to get really fancy with the "scrape table" (that's what I call my version of this), you could route the surface of the table with the shape of the various plates you have. That way the plates drop in and are flush with the table surface, and you don't have to hold them while scraping.
This sounds just like such an Adam thing to do! This combined with something like Arctyrus's comment about a pull-out shelf under the X1's would be the ultimate! ❤👍
what about magnetizing it?
@@gleechy I like how you think. 😁
What about a slide out shelf, with a recess to hold the bed, that has a scraper fitted on the edge so all you have to do is place the bed on it, push it in and out and the filament is removed!
K.I.S.S. Just put a couple stop blocks on the corners just like the X1C and P1P have on the build plate and no worries.
Damm... 22:05 "Who needs to get fancy?" . It shows how much Adam got experienced. He on the first seasons was all about fancy solutions. I like that middle place.
Hi, I recently bought a new X1-Carbon and they included the textured Plate with it, so maybe, they were listening to your suggestion ;-)
The blue anodized aluminum color is almost impossible to match with a color filament. The yellow, red, purple and green are easy to replicate using many different brands of silk PLA without having to sand and paint.
This made me wonder if it's possible to buy or make powdered anodized aluminum. You could then mix it into the plastic or maybe use it with some adhesive for a coating.
@@LanceThumping I am by no means smart, but that sounds like a really good idea
I've tried a few, trying to get a decent blue metallic look. Most are way too light colored. The only thing I've tried that was close was Geeetech PLA Royal Blue. If you print it too fast, like most silks, it can end up not being very shiny at all. Your mileage may vary. I print silks on an old printer that runs around 60mm/s. My newer printer that runs at 250mm/s+ usually makes it look dull unless I slow way down on the outside walls.
Wish I had 1/2 of Adam’s knowledge and life experience. SUCH a good guy!
These are my favourite type of videos on your channel, they are just very relaxing for me to watch, I don't even do any 3d printing or anything like that, but still really enjoy watching you do this kind of work. Thank you.
I just got my X1C last week, and it came with a double sided textured PEI plate.
The real impressive part of this is how fast and well you drew up that 3d sketch of the funnel. Started designing my own parts recently and Im so awful at drawing that I just draw a bunch of 2D POVs. Gonna try to apply some techniques you used in that sketch in the future
If you already have orthographic views, you should practice with them to make isometric views. Once you do a few of them, you'll quickly get the hang of sketching isometric views by hand. Start with simple designs then do a few that are more complex. This isn't art, so really if you can create the orthographic views, there's no reason you draw the iso views up front once you understand how to draw in 3 planes. You're actually doing the same thing except you're drawing the top view along a 60 degee axis at your origin. The front views are exactly the same except circle are ovals. This stuff used to be taught in drafting classes. Now nobody knows how to make drawings because of automation with with 3D modeling. It's a shame because people can't make quick sketch on bar napkins. When I was young, I alway checked to see if I had napkins in my pockets from a night of drinking.
Maybe watch a few videos on converting orthographic to isometric.
ruclips.net/video/IT2_c6jQrz4/видео.html&ab_channel=ADTWStudy
You could also practice on Iso graph paper.
www.amazon.com/Isometric-Notebook-Equilateral-Triangles-Measuring/dp/1096640686/
Whoa .. it's crazy that you released this video today...... I was just looking at getting a Bambu Lab P1S Combo 3D Printer and Eibos Polyphemus filament dryer, since I live in close proximity to others and it's not possible to do a resin unit.
A lot of progress with the 3D print farm this time around! Love the improvements, and excited to see even more use of them with your builds.
Have recently gotten an A1 it's a super cool moment to watch Adam going through the same problem solving I've been doing: Solutions for keeping the filament dry, poop collection, etc. It's basic stuff that you realize you need to handle when you get into the hobby, but I've been enjoying solving these things in large part by using the printer itself.
That was a fascinating watch. Thank you!
Seeing your issue with the plates from your Bambu printers gives me an idea for a remedy to minor problem I have. I use a Sovol printer and the hotbed is massive. It takes a long time to cool down so I can detach a completed print (depending on the material - PETG is clingy until it cools). Like you said, if the printer's not printing it's wasting time. But the solution is easy - I'll get another PEI plate. As soon as one print is done I'll take the plate out to cool and put in the other one so I can start the next print. It's like baking plastic cookies!
Polyalchemy Elixir PLA will be by far the best Anodized aluminum filament for you. I tossed a small part printed in their silver to a coworker (also an engineer) and they were scared for a second because they expected that they would be catching a part of commensurate weight as though it had been made of aluminum.
The blue is a great anodized aluminum color, I've never used red, but everything I've read about red [silk] PLA is that it comes out more pinkish. I'm not sure why the blue and silver and most other colors are so vibrant and yet the red is almost pink, but it seems to be an battle between enough dye to make red and enough additive to make it shiny.
Those 12 volt Makita drills are simply the best. I have 2 complete sets and I use them daily. It's a shame that they don't make them anymore. I rebuild them if they fail. 👍👍
I'm so glad to see that not the only person who thinks kinetically... also the distraction from odd sounds is SOOO REAL!!! Thank you Adam!
Try only making the interface layer use support material. That will result in fewer filament changes because it will make the supports out of the regular filament until the last few support layers, where it touches the print. This also saves on using more support material.
I think that is what he explained. The problem is if you have complex parts. The support filament is good if you have simple overhangs that are mostly just horizontal, as they only require a few layers with the support interface but if you have steep angled or curved overhangs or lots of overhangs at different heights then your support interface is on a lot of layers and hence need lots of filament changes.
Yes I agree. Heard him say in the beginning, "hundreds" of filament changes.
Every time I watch Adams videos and see his shop. I get so jealous and envious. It’s funny really. We don’t ever think a few things. 1 he was a tv star builder (needs lots of stuff). 2 he has been doing and collecting these tools for decades. 3. It’s his life it really is. Expectations versus reality is huge! And he’s constantly working and making money off his projects. Baby steps people baby steps. Gotta start small to be huge! And I just saw he changed his ending. I miss the old one!
This man loves dry filament. Tbf I don't know how my filament in unaffected.. but I run a print farm in the UK in a room above a cellar. The gaps in the floor boards are so big I can see down into the cellar which is open to the outside, there's no sealed door on it because it used to be used as a barrel store with a big slope ramp. The house is from the 1700s so that's why. Anyway my filament is just sitting on a shelf and humidity is 65-75 indoors in the summer and my filament is just fine?? PETG and ABS. Some of the lesser used colours are a year or more old but they print absolutely flawlessly on the x1c still. I have invested in a dehumidifer for this winter but that's mainly for my cardboard packaging and papers as I can feel it get damper over winter
I've been wondering this too, then I left a roll out in the open for about a year and it started printing like crap and getting ground up by the bowden extruder gear, might not be as noticeable if you use a direct drive extruder but it does seem to get softer
I THINK (sometimes) that PLA is more absorbent than PETG and ABS.
On the other side I am in Scotland with similar humidity and I have to dry quite a lot of filament, even PLA sometimes but especially nylons, polycarbonate, PETG and especially TPU.
Drying PLA is stupid. It's literally engineered around it's hygroscopic properties.
From what I understand from watching many a video, there's not really a concern with needing to try and keep it dry, especially with how quickly he seems to use it. Unless he's using something that absolutely gobbles up water, PLA can be in an average environment for months (Think I've heard up to a couple years from a couple makers). PETG is pickier for sure, and his hotbox is perfect for those.
I love watching you solve problems, you can see the backlash taken out of the gears and everything start to spool up.
Wow I am amazed how that mechanism was 3D printed! It's come such a long way. Makes me want to get into it.
It's never been easier to get up and running. You can get a high quality printer for a fraction of the cost it would have cost you just a few years ago. Most of the modern printers have sensors that fix the pain points of setting up a printer. It's at the point now where you plug it in a press print.
I bought a Lightyear Garolite (G10) sheet for my X1C. Its phenomenal in its ability to stick to anything without glue that I've thrown at it while it's heated but release with barely a touch when cool. ABS, PLA, PETG, TPU, everything I've used so far is perfect and the surface finish on the part that contacts the build plate is perfectly smooth. It uses the Smooth PEI Plate / High Temp Plate setting in Bambu Slicer.
bambu now has a setting so instead of purging and wasting the material you can have it print something else that you don't care what the color is. Pretty cool option
There are filaments that are designed to be electroplated, I would use some of those to get your anodized look.
Adam Savage lives my dream life. If I had money, I'd be able to tinker and invent dodads all day! Until then I can live vicariously through him lol
Love it that the chute was made with wood and relied on core hands-on fabrication skills!!
(Adam roughly sketching a waste filament chute design)
Me - "Oh cool. He's probably going to pass it off to someone to mock up in CAD and somehow print in pieces on the Bambu."
(Cut to Adam working with plywood in the shape of his sketch)
Me - "Ah. I forgot this was Adam for a moment. That one's on me."
3D printing isn’t the best method for a lot of things.
@@conorstewart2214 Totally agree. I was just in the 3D printing headspace given the title of the video. Then I realized how big it ended up needing to be once he did install it and thought "yeah, he chose the right approach."
The enjoyment of seing a project work, regardless of how simple or complex, is unparalleled
The plate table could have been designed to be bigger than the tray, so the scraps fall into gaps around the edge. Add sides with a cleanout and it becomes its own trash bin.
Adam you're a national treasure. I recently purchased the X1 Carbon and I love watching your videos. Keep 'em coming!
This man screams ADHD and he is still successful and great to watch. He gives me hope for myself.
It was probably very difficult for him to get organized, and I'll bet being organized is one of his top priorities, he probably organizes religiously, if ADHD person starts slacking off in that regard, the downward spiral is that things pile up very quickly and once they're in a pile, procrastination begins, and more piles appear, nothing gets done...
@@dingdingdingdiiiiing Stop talking about me! 🤣
I've only been 3D printing for a couple months now but one thing I've learned is with that type of build plate, don't scrape parts off it unless you have no other option! You can usually let it cool completely and they'll pop right off! You may have to flex it a little bit but if you scrape it, it usually means your z offset is too low. Scraping the plate can cause damage to the plate and you'll be replacing them prematurely.
Yeah, I cringed when Adam started talking about scraping a PEI sheet. The whole purpose behind coated flex plates is to *let the print cool* then *flex* the plate to pop off the print. I've used PLA, PETG, and TPU on PEI flex sheets with no trouble. (TIP: The trick to getting small TPU parts off a flex sheet is to remove them while they're still warm.) Only very rarely have I ever had to use a tool to remove a part, and even then, I just used a thin-edged plastic tool to get an edge lifted to start the removal process. PEI is a game changer - no glue, no scraping. A quick wipe down with alcohol between prints keeps it clean. When prints stop sticking, going over the surface with some fine sandpaper does the trick to refresh the plate.
He's Doc Brown...
Now your scraping table needs its own chute so you can scrape right off the back and into a trash can. A scoop on top of the chute would keep material from flying off across the shop. A scraper pocket on the side may keep it from migrating also. Great episode!
I wonder if he'll pipe the scraping table chute into the funnel so that there's only one printer-plastic waste bin.
The textured PEI plates are just *awesome* for PLA and I wouldn't want to be without them. My recommendation would be to have two for each machine, and take the one you're not using and wash it in the sink with dish soap and a stiff plastic brush. Any time I'm having adhesion issues, that fixes it. No glue stick required.
That was my tought aswell, no glue needed on the gold pei sheet
Something that might help with the PEI sheet cleaning table is some sort of heatsink top surface to cool the plate quickly before you start removing prints. I usually use the metal chassis of our front-loading clothes drier since that is near by to my printer. For your table, maybe a heatsink with short fins, mounted with the fins down. And a blower on the side with duct to blow air between the fins. For power, use an adapter for the batteries that you use on your handheld power tools. I don't know if I explained it well...
you can electroplate 3d prints, its best on resin prints though but you can also do it on fdm prints too if you don't mind the extra work to smooth it out. Using carbon or graphite spray and coating that in copper then going from copper to any other metal you can do that. using nickel and some bluing compound could make it look good.
For the anodized aluminum look I would mix some resin with the pigment mixed in and paint it onto the 3d printed backing. Resin with mica powder I think would look very close to what you're looking for. OR you could use the printer to make a mold and cast the parts completely out of resin if you need super sharp edges.
I love Adam's vocal inanities, their so endearing! I do a lot of odd muttering myself when I'm poking around in my project room
you rock Adam been watching you for 20 years dude. Heres to another 20!!
One of the most amazing upgrades I have done for my 3D printer was first a ruby and now a diamond nozzle. The diamond is weirdly enough thermally more conductive than the brass that surrounds it and delivers amazing print quality, even with abrasive or otherwise complcated filaments. I can recommend them wholeheartedly, even though they are somewhat pricey (~$40 for ruby and $120 for diamond). Just like the diamond tipped saw blade, the diamond printer nozzle is an amazing upgrade.
Where did you get the diamond one from?
I’m absolutely loving the 3D printer content on the channel please keep uploading about 3D printing in general!
I love how fast you adapt new technologies to your work flow. I should adapt something like that to my home printers
Growing up on Mythbusters its so awesome seeing Adam being Adam. Such an inspirational person
nearly gave up on respooling filament and decided to give this one a try. so glad I did it works great and I haven't got the base mounted properly its that good. I even printed the bearings in PLA and they are doing great! thanks for the recommendation, I no longer have to turn my nose up at off brand filaments.
I see how his 3d printing spce is becoming more incorporated into his flow and flow state, nice little workspace, nice little corner of the shop
I love the moment you heard a new noise in your space and wondered what it was only to realize it's the new poop bucket and funnel system you created. 🤣🤣 I'm new to 3D printing with my A1 but I am in love and love watching what you do with 3D printing.
Cool that the winder has a "level wind" like an old bait caster fishing reel! The Bambu A1-mini (and maybe the A1?) ship with the textured plate. I've had my printer less than a week and I love it. Next week I'll start with some CAD.
Great video , that sequence at 13:00 of you sketching the funnel was super nice to see!
Re adonized aluminium finish on PLA.
I treat all my prints to paint. Some looking like red anodiced aluminium too.
My favorite approach for that is:
1. sand, fill, prime the print
2. spraypaint shiny black. I use to wet-sand the black with 1600-2000 grit to near mirror sheen - but then, I'm just fussy.
3. airbrush with a really good silver
4. airbrush clear red on top
5. spraypaint 2-3 layers of clear (glossy), let it cure well between layers
6. wet-sand with 1600-5000 grit and polish with novus glass number 2
For priming, black and clear I use automotive paint and spraygun rather than cans
For silver, clear red I use solvent based acrylics for airbrush, by SMS (Australian based company)
This works the same in blue or any other clear color available.
The result is a beautiful metallic, coming close to adonized aluminium.
I have a blaster on my channel here, which shows the effect nicely.
Glad to see an Anycubic machine next to the bambus. I have an x1C but my first printer was an Anycubic Predator and I wouldn't change the struggle of learning to print with a printer like that for anything.
I love seeing the big disk sander slowly slowing down in the background while working on the funnel
Cool stuff, Adam! I just got a new Bambu Lab P1S a few months ago and I love it. But I have a lot of filament on spools that don't fit into the AMS, so that spool winder will come in handy when I can get around to making it. I also really like the big dry box storage cabinet. My current setup is a single-spool dryer and a plastic Hefty bin with Damp-Rid and a bunch of dessicant packets in it, which seems to be working fine for PLA and PETG so far. I love seeing people solve problems with simple and practical solutions. Keep 'em coming!
Those are my absolute favorite mechanical pencils! I used them all throughout college.
Awesome build Adam! I appreciate you showing your sketching out the funnel. Definitely helps viewers like myself learn to improve their own making processes 👍
Hello Adam, I bought one of the Bambu Labs X1C with the AMS. I can't tell you how impressed with the performance of this printer. I had been struggling with my Kywoo 3D Tycoon Max trying to get acceptable quality for dimension parts and I could get there but for an EE the tweaking was getting painful. The X1C just plain works! I am doing prints with PLA+ and PETG (I never could get PETG to work well with the Kywoo) and it is amazing how they turn out. I just printed some simple 7.25 X 4 X 1.5 inch deep trays out of white PLA+ and the finish looks like an injection molded part. I had to get the magnifying glass to see the evidence of the print process. All of the parts I have made thus far were printed at ludicrous speed so I really need to see how well it does when I slow it by 1/2 or 2/3rds (the speed of my old printer). If I I slowed my old one to sloth speed I don't think it could even come close to the X1C. The only real texture on the finished parts is on the bottom from contact with the PEI build plate (that plate works amazingly well glue or no glue so far) the plate actually leaves a really nice textured finish. I have a high temp plate, but I have not used it yet. Next is to try some persnickety ABS or something with carbon fiber in it. Next I want to try some really small parts like spacers for 2-56 and 4-40 machine screws and see how they work out. It seems that the local hardware store never has the size I need and I need to stop cutting up all of my BIC pens with the pipe cutter for spacers. Well once you have had the X1C's for a few months how about bringing all of us up to date on your observations. Sam W3OHM P.S. I almost forgot. Thank you so very much for doing the unboxing and introduction to this printer. Your video pushed me over the edge and I ordered mine after watching your video!!
Hey Adam you can tell the printer to just print the interface layers in that support stuff. So you print your support structure in the standard PLA or whathaveyou, all in one layer and one go and only when you come to the contact surface, which is around two layers thick or something, you switch to the special support material. It saves you special support filament, it saves a lot of purged material and it saves you time for all the changing and purging
My favorite part was the cable holders that fell off behind the 3D printers, that is the most relatable thing I have ever seen
As always great! As an retired engineer, it is great to watch you think/design/create. I think clutter is the mark of genius at work. Your clutter is organized and mine is not. I blame mine on lack of space. But there is never enough space! 😄 I am about to buy a BBL P1S and upgrade with hardened parts ( I wish they sold that as P1T?). That is my budget issue. I get what I need with AMS for about $800 and that is as much as I can afford.
For your anodized aluminum request, there are a few solutions I can think of. 1) try looking into silk PLA. It has a metallic like finish with at a pretty affordable price. 2) HTPLA is PLA filament that has small particles of metal in it. The parts that it prints can be sanded and polished to have a metal like finish. 3) I saw recently about plating your print using electrolysis. That a bit more involved but still a cool concept. They used a conductive filament for the print and then set up a bath of whatever material they wanted to coat it in. Hope this helps!
I have that same drill/driver set. It’s probably 12 years old at this point and still exceptionally reliable for small jobs
First shiny or anodized looking pla you'll be looking into silk pla filaments. A few caveats to know silk filament on fast printers is that you might have to slow down your top speed to avoid getting a matte finish in areas. And generally overhangs don't print as well on silk filament. Also silk filament can have a lot weaker layer bonding.
Adam, I have been using a PEI flex plate and never had to scrape a print off. A simple flex ans the part pops right off ! EVERY TIME ..... Keep having fun ! ( from an old dog still learning new tricks ).
Watching Adam fight with the spool winder... he sounded JUST like me when I'm working on a project! Glad it's not just me!
Love to see your embracing 3d printing in your own way.
Long time fan first time caller! 1st mythbusters was influential in my decision to peruse a steam career! 2nd small suggestion if you keep your scrape table there and a bucket under it for waste why not just redirect your funnels in the back to land the purged filament and the scraped waste all in the same bin. Plus! You won’t have to climb behind the printers.
I have the X1. It is amazing. It has drastically cut down on the time it take me to make a mold. Great Buy.
Your choice of colour for filament made it look antique and neat
You’re inspiring generations of creators. Right now I’m thinking how do I apply or bring this to the world I work in which is software love your videos never stop don’t stop the world needs you more of the people that believe in what you believe in I love all you talk about sanding down three stones to make a flat surface and to gauges and sources of truth. Think that’s so important. Love the science, Geekiness and the DIY ethos. Of course you have a shop to die for. Above all we see how you strive for perfection, which seems like a simple statement, but when one actually strives for it, and works towards it, watched you like sand down your little multi grip first thing,there’s just some rough spots and you just kept on sanding and making that vice better.
Adam! Look at the Hydra mod for the AMS. That way you don't have to re-wind every spool. The hydra takes bigger ones as well
I'm amazed at your lightning fast draft drawing.
PASTAMATIC!!! I made one on my P1S several weeks ago when I had an Oopsie with trying to move a cardboard spool onto a plastic one. The 20 hour print time is justified for each time I don’t have to spend all night winding a spool by hand again.
30% humidity might pass on pla but silk pla abs or nylon I keep at 10% with nothing more than a husky waterproof 12 gallon tote and a bag of silica. Holds 12 spools and takes up little space