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Anycubic Kobra Max - Improve Printing
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- Опубликовано: 14 авг 2024
- In this 3 part series I unbox, assemble, tune, and print on the Anycubic Kobra Max. Part 2 is the fine tuning of some settings to get better prints and we do the auto-level
Anycubic Kobra Max 3D Printer
www.anycubic.c...
Pronterface
www.pronterfac...
Ultimaker Cura Slicing Program (free)
ultimaker.com/...
Anycubic Vyper
amzn.to/3ShemeV
I don't state this in my video but write down your starting PID settings incase you have to go back for some reason.
Thank you for this, I went through so many videos with annoying lo-fi hiphop, garish scene changes and an overly excited host. This is just perfect and informative
Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it. I'm glad it helped.
This is one of the best videos I have seen ever! All of the shots are clear and focused. no hands in the way, no sections that are important are missed when doing fast forwards. You have just saved me several dozen hours to get to where this video starts!
Thanks so much for watching, I really appreciate it. I'm going to be doing a video on how to fine tune the X, Y, and Z steps too.
This video made your channel an easy subscription.
Detailed walkthrough step by step without assuming that we knew certain parts of the process.
The Kobra Max could be many peoples first 3D printers, or maybe they aren't as tech savvy as the next person when it comes to tweaking software settings.
This was explained well enough I could have had my grandmother setup the printer for me!
Keep up the great work!
Thanks for watching and I'm glad it was helpful!
The best walkthrough ever!
You saved my prints!!
Thank you!!!!
This video was amazing. As a non computer guy, the step by step was amazing. Can't thank you enough!
I'm glad it helped and thanks for watching :)
My man, this video was a lifesaver! I bought a used Kobra Max and it was printing like junk. Clearly the person I bought it from didn't watch this video! 😂
Glad I could help and thanks for watching :)
Just coming back a year later to say this video still helps me to this day with getting around the PID autotune saving issue. Thank you, again.
Thanks for watching, again. I appreciate it and I'm glad it helped.
Thank you, You explained this process simply and easy to follow.
Glad you liked it
I got my first FDM printer today (Kobra Max) and as a total newbie this was easy to follow and get done. Luckily I was off by 6mm on the estep also so that took the math out of it! Thank you!
Glad it helped and thanks for watching!!
lol I'm in the same boat. I just ordered a Kobra max on amazon last night. luckily the offsets look similar to the robotics course I took yrs back and cnc. I'm psyched. My kids and I are gonna have a blast. now I just have to find the 3d software and some quick starter files to load up and show off to my kids lol
@@Skidly_Finley5879 ThingiVerse has a lot of ready made stuff. To design you own stuff I suggest starting off with TinkerCAD. For slicing I prefer Cura, the new Beta release has a profile for the Kobra Max
Thanks for this guide. I used it on my new Kobra Max and it's printing well now. I also just followed the instructions for my older Ender 3 Pro after finally switching it to a direct drive extruder and dual Z-axis motors a couple days ago. After adjusting the PID values, I found the E steps for the new extruder were off by 12mm. Fixing that made a huge difference. I've been dabbling with 3d printers for about 8 years but struggled with getting them to perform well for about the first 5. This video was a great help.
I'm going to be doing a video where I tune the X, Y, Z steps. I'm eager to see how this affects my prints. BTW, thanks for watching!
I stumbled across this video last week, followed your instructions, and recalibrated both my Kobra Max and Kobra Plus. My prints are SO much better. thanks so much!
Thanks so much for watching, glad it was helpful. Based on the reception of this video I’m thinking of doing a video on fine tuning the steps for the X,Y,Z so they are calibrated too.
@@TheMakersCave that's great idea! I'll be watching for that video too 🙂
Thank you so much for doing this, greatly appreciated by myself and everyone else who has watched this video
Glad you liked it and thanks for watching, I appreciate it.
Awesome setup guide! I printed the owl gcode on my Kobra Max right out of the box, and then again after implementing the procedure shown. The out-of-box settings produced good results on the owl print. Much better than I expected. The owl print after making the Pronterface adjustments looks just a bit better. The improvements are most noticeable on top of the "horns". Thanks for the great tutorial.
For anybody having the "temperature is too high" error using autotune: make sure the temperatures of the head and print bed are below the test temperatures in Pronterface. You're trying to autotune it using a lower temperature than your current temp. Use Pronterface to turn off those heaters, wait for the temps to drop, then run autotune again.
Thanks for watching and I'm glad it helped.
Wow...thank you so much. I have been searching the internet trying to find training videos on my Kobra 2 Max and most videos assume their viewers came out of the womb knowing everything there is about 3D printing. I definitely did not and was ready to give up on this printer. You have started me in the right direction even though the Kobra 2 Max is a little different than the one in your video, you explained in a way that I could understand. Can't wait to go watch the next one in the series. You've got a new subcriber here. Thanks again. :)
Thank you, I actually have a 2 max sitting in the Cave right now, I’ll be doing an unboxing and review this weekend.
@@TheMakersCave Awesome. I will be looking forward to it. 🥰
I just ordered a Kobra max on amazon last night. luckily the offsets look similar to the robotics course I took yrs back and cnc. I'm psyched. My kids and I are gonna have a blast. now I just have to find the 3d software and some quick starter files to load up and show off to my kids lol. Your video was a great jog on the brain. its been 8 yrs and full of cob webs. This I hope inspires my 10 yr old. Thanks again, ill be looking for more videos.
Thanks for watching! Try Thingiverse for stuff to print. I prefer Cura for slicing and the new Beta version has a profile for the Kobra Max. For designing your own stuff, start with TinkerCad, I design everything in it.
Thanks for the video, i have been 3d printing for almost 4yrs but was always confused about how to calibrate the e steps and PID. Did not know what software to use and how to go about it. Your video made it so easy to follow and i have started calibrating all my printers. Thank you 😊.
Glad it was helpful!
I’m not even done watching this and I had to stop to comment and just say this is SO helpful. Thank you!
Thank you for watching. This week I'll be putting out a video on how to tune the X, Y, and Z steps.
@@TheMakersCave Awesome! I’ve been happy with my prints but I can tell that some fine tuning needs to be done and there is always room for improvement.
I basically -never- comment on videos, but I had to for this one. Thankyou so much for taking the time to make this, never heard of this from anyone and the steps are so easy to follow.
Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it. I'll be doing a video soon on X, Y, and Z step tuning.
This is exactly what I needed! Steps were clear, precise, and well explained. Saved my brain from exploding too! Thank you so much again
Thanks for watching and I'm glad it helped :)
This is CRAZY!!! I printed the same thing about 10 times and was ready to RETURN the printer when i came across your video the difference is NIGHT AND DAY!!
Before:
M301 P22.20 I1.08 D119.00
M304 P97.10 I1.41 D1675.16
M92 E405.00
After:
M301 P29.84 I3.13 D71.08
M303 P155.25 I15.33 D1047.86
M92 E424.52
I'm glad it was helpful. In the next week I'll have a video on how you can adjust your X, Y, and Z steps so those are spot on.
Honestly best how to video I’ve seen possibly ever! Thanks
Glad you liked it and thanks for watching. I'll be doing a video soon on how to tune the X, Y, Z steps.
Amazing Video. Been playing with 3D printer for a few years but never had the know how to calibrate until now with your video. Thank you so much. Now time to do my 4 other printers
I'll be doing a video soon on calibrating the X, Y, Z steps too.
Fan-friggin-tastic. Thank you for putting all of this in simple terms.
Thanks for watching and I’m glad to help.
Oh dude what a fantastic video, I've been lazy and just started using my Kobra max straight out the box, prints have been hit and miss, I'm going straight to try your advice out now on this video and part 3!!! Keep up the good work
Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it. I don't state this in my video but write down your start PID settings incase you have to go back for some reason.
I am using the kobra to print a 3D prosthetic leg with carbon fibre filament and it does job great, I'm even printing the knee and ankle joints too.
This sounds like a great use of 3D printing, I love to hear stories like this. It show just how practical 3D printing can be, not just for printing pencil holders.
Thank a lot for the tutorial. I bought a Kobra max few day ago and i directly switch the nozzle for a 0,8mm one. Each time, the last layer of my print was quiet bad.
Thanks for watching. If you need any more help let me know, I'll try and help.
Awesome video! Thank you. Anycubic should ship all their printers with a link to this video
Thank you so much for watching, I'm glad it was helpful!
thank you showing us how step by step..
Welcome 😊
frankly, we are having a lot of trouble with this tray and roulette and these two threaded rods, thank you
I should also say, this was one of my first times of running gcode commands right into a device and it opened up that whole aspect to me, so thanks for that also. I had only messed with them barely with the static printer settings. This is all new and great, thaks!!!
Glad it helped!
Thanks so much for your helpful easy to follow video, did a before & after print & the difference was chalk and cheese.
Thanks for watching and I'm glad it helped!!
Great video and you've inspired me to go through my max and do this. I haven't had any major issues, but there's always room for improvement. Would love to see some of the prints you've done after calibrating it.
Thanks for watching! I have part 3 out where I do some prints. Anycubic Kobra Max Review - Test Prints
ruclips.net/video/wpMmT-BKcYU/видео.html
@@TheMakersCave I saw that after I watched this. Any other prints you have done with it? I honestly think my owl came out better right out of the box.
Only I issue I had was that the sliced file had first layer flow at 105% which is why everyone has a hard time getting it off the glass bed. I modified my Cura print profile to fix that issue and I haven't had an issue with the first layer since.
I have had a few prints that had some issues with the surface, but typically only on one side in a small area. I'm wondering if that's underextrusion.
I’m going to calibrate my X,Y,Z steps tomorrow
I have used this 6 times in the last month. Thank you!
Thanks for watching and I'm glad it helped!
Thanks for the info man! I've been running it for a few months with never doing this and had done it with my other printers. Appreciate the content
Glad it could help and thanks for watching!
Best video ever. Thanks so much. Its been hard to get help with these issues with the 3d printers.
Thank you for watching. This week I'll be putting out a video on how to tune the X, Y, and Z steps.
Thank you!
Not surprisingly, my initial e-step setting was 405 and tuned in at 430.36. Rest assured all these Kobra Max are under-extruding……I’ve been so spoiled for years thanks to Prusa😎
Putting together my first Prusa now, Mini+. Video coming soon. Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it.
This was a very helpful and well made video! Thank you so much! I was only off 3mm on esteps, but my PID settings were way off! Hopefully this helps with my stringing and under extrusion issues!
Great intro to Pronterface! Going to try calibrating my Sidewinder X2 next!
Thanks for watching and I'm glad it helped. I was amazed how a little tuning made such a difference too!
Thanks a lot, I just followed your video to calibrate my new Kobra Max :)
Glad it helped!
This video has been beyond helpful. The only thing I would add, is maybe a touch of info on if your machine is over extruding.
Yeah, I'm surprised how many people are contacting me about over extrusion. Did you need help with that formula?
@@TheMakersCave I figured it out, just took me a bit. Though I just swapped over to a microswiss extruder, I had to dial it back to e100 to finally get it to under extrude a bit. In either case, I couldn't have done it without this video. Thank you for your help.
Thank you so much for the video! Helped me a ton dialing this huge printer in.
Glad it helped!
Also I think the filament feeder calibration, the marks could be made at the runout sensor, and 100 out from that, also if that is easer to reach.
It doesn't really matter what you use as the demarcation, use whatever is easiest, like you said.
Thank you for this tutorial. This is the easiest instructions for Kobra Max. Awesome content
Thanks for watching and I’m glad it was helpful
best video ever!!! well done! can't wait to get my printer. I feel very prepared to start!
Have fun! And thanks for watching.
Appreciate the video. I have not done this on the Kobra Max but will this weekend.
Thanks for watching and have fun printing!
Thank you! Worked great. Now I have to try it out and print something.
One question, why do you have your fan at 100% when you said you print mainly PETG. I have to have my fan off when printing it or it causes all kinds of issues. I did everything you did except that.
Wonderful video, thank you so much !! You really get deeply into fine settings, I had never seen anyone do this before... Keep up the good work, thank you again !
Thanks for watching! I’m thinking of doing a video on fine tuning the steps for the X,Y,Z so they are calibrated too.
@@TheMakersCave That would be wonderful... 😃
Best How to on the net!!! You are outstanding!!!! Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching!
THANK YOU FOR THIS. THIS IS THE SIMPLEST STEP BY STEP VIDEO IVE EVER SEEN! THIS WAS AN EASY LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE!!! I HAVE A KOBRA PLUS BUT THIS MADE EVERYTHING SO SIMPLE
I'm glad it helped and thanks for watching.
Turns out my Kobra Max was also shorting the feed by 6mm and I had no clue, let alone know that I could correct it. Awesome.
Thank for watching, I'm glad it was helpful.
thank you for taking your time to do this. you made this really simple to do. thank you
Thanks for watching and I'm glad it helped.
Great video. Clear and easy instructions. Really appreciate it. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!!
Just one more thing, if you want to run the filament in using commands, they are `G92 E0` to zero the feeder position, and `G1 E100` to feed 100mm. Remember to re-run `G92 E0` after each feed. The rest of the temperature settings can be done roughly using the touch screen.
That is a way to do it, but I find many users like a gui to make things easier.
My Anycubic Kobra 2 Max didn't come with a USB cable. I ordered a male to male usb cable, but it's not seeing a COM setting. Is there a special USB cable that you're using and if so, do you know where I can order one?
"Could not connect to COMxx at baudrate 115200:
Serial error could not open port 'COMxx': PermissionError(13, 'Access is denied.', None, 5)"
If anyone is having this problem, it's because there are other applications using the COM port. In my case i had to close Cura and my printer went online.
Great tutorial, thanks :)
And that is what I was going to reply :) I get this question quite a lot. If another program, especially Cura, is open, it locks up the COM port so other programs, like PronterFace can't grab the port and you get that error.
Thanks! yours was under extruding by 6mm, mine was over extruding by 50mm... I never would have figured that out
Glad I could help and thanks for watching!
Thank you for the great instructions. Im officially a subscriber
Thanks for the sub and I'm glad it helped!
So easy to watch and follow, well made!
Thanks so much!
Thank you! Both my Kobra Max's were both 6mm off, the same as yours. I guess it's a factory thing.
Thanks for watching. I'm getting ready to do a 24 hour print, my longest ever. I have to print the head of the BD-1 life size model of the Star Wars droid I'm building.
Is it a way to restore to factory settings? I didn't write down my PID settings from the being and just followed the video. Now my prints won't stick to the bed
Fantastic video and explainations
Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it, and I hope it helped with your printign.
Is it really true that Kobra 2 max is not compatible with pronterface. I got that off of the site when I downloaded the program under the check capability button
This is great! Also, one thing that wasn’t covered. If you have Cura open, pro terrace will not connect to the printer
That is correct, I’ve r received a lot of connection error questions and it always comes back to that. I never thought that people would have both open simultaneously and should have mentioned it.
Excellent video thank you; subscribed!
Thank for watching, I really appreciate it.
THANK YOU SO MUCH THIS VIDEO WAS GREAT HELP, ooops caps was still on from entering the commands
Thanks for watching and I’m glad it helped
Easy step by step process. I typed it out along with the cmd structure/order. Got my machine tuned and 'E Steps' dialed in like a glove. Thank you!
Edit: I'm seeing EStep reference 120mm as opposed to 100mm, thoughts?
I don't think using 120 or 100 makes a difference. You would have to change the equation though if you did a test extrusion of 120.
Great video! Thank you very much for the explanation of the process.
You're very welcome!
Hi. I'm wondering where you got these commands from? I want to try your tuning with my Kobra Plus, but I'm not too sure if the commands and processes would be the same.
Most 3D printers like the Plus and Max run use Marline G-Code Firmware. Here's a link to all the different commands: marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/
Great video ,very clear and informative . I do have one question. When your doing your E step , your using PLA ,but select ABS on the pad to heat up..I didn't know if that was an error? Didn't matter ? Or intentional? I use PLA ,so wasn't sure what to choose ,seeing what you selected.
I had to preheat the hot end to get the filament loaded, so I just picked any setting on the preheat. The goal was just to get the hot end hot enough so the filament could flow through to do the E stops, if I was actually trying to print something I would have used different settings
By the way, thanks for watching I really appreciate it! 😊
hello a video to adjust the tray with the wheels for anycubic kobra max would be superb thank you
Thanks for the idea!
Great video!! Very helpful
Thanks for watching, glad it was helpful
Thanks for posting a clean, focused, and helpful video. Very serious and I feel important question before even sending the first calibration command: what mode/setting should the printer be in to get the best calibration. My thinking would tend to suggest that the printer not be cold so: should calibration be started from Preheat once it reaches temperature, or set the temperatures to the temps used for ones material in the Pronterface Heat and Bed temperature control window then wait for it to hit those set temps, then start a calibration? I have watched the video three times never hearing this mentioned nor seeing any prep setting before starting the calibration (unless I missed it).
Hi, thanks for watching. The PID autotune command takes care of preheating for both the hot end and the bed so you don't have to do it.
hi i just got anycubic kobra max. how to change to 120v to 220v i cant fine it no where. and how to conn your anycubic with a usb to ultimaker cura on your computer.went i turn off my printer i can hear it desconn .went i open up ultimaker cura. it say hook up to you printer
I was able to send the commands using putty - I think any general purpose terminal emulator (set to the right baud etc.) may work. Turning on local echo is a good idea. Just an FYI.
I'll try that, thanks.
Hi The Makers Cave, I've done everything but it's not extruding more than 77mm. i have calculated many times so the number of steps grows and nothing. everytime after M92 E... i send M500 command with no success, around77mm, not more. Help please!
Hi, thanks for watching. I'm assuming that you mean when you issue 100mm to be extruded through pronter face it's only extruding 77mm?
I think a lot of us find that the Kobra Max prints hot. For PLA+ where I'd normally run at 215 I run at 200. did the PID tune help this or is it just the nature of the printer?
When printing I do see that the nozzle temp is very stable.
I have also found that the hotend runs a little hot, on my Vyper too, so it's a Anycubic thing. Others have noted it as well. I just take set my temp, like you, 10 to 15 degrees cooler. So far the prints are fine doing it this way. BTW, thanks for watching, I really appreciate it.
This was very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
This pronterface does not seem to work with Kobra standard. Can’t connect. I actually got it to connect but it apparently doesn’t stay connected. Was able to pull all the settings doing the M503 thing and then turned fan on high setting and went to do auto tune and it would send the command but nothing happens. Gave up. Why i should had listened and got the Pursa printer.
Make sure that PronterFace is the only thing running. If Cura, or something else that uses the 3D printer's port, is running it won't allow Pronterface to connect. Let me know how it's going.
Hey I was just watching a video on how to PID tune my Vyper and after rewatching it I noticed he put U1 command at the end, where here you didnt. He said the that U1 parts lets the M500 command save it otherwise you'd have to do it manually he said. Sounds like the issue here, but then agian theyre differnet printers.
Yep, different printers, on my Vyper I can have the settings automatically save after the PID command. The firmware is different on the Kobra Max.
Excellent. Thank you. This was exactly what I needed.
Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it and I'm glad it could help
@@TheMakersCave Oh! It most definitely does! I know about acurizing a 3d printer but my other printers all have it part of their interfaces. When I didn't find it in the kobra max menus, I was stumped. You've done all the research for me and I can get on with printing.
Thank you greatly!
Thank you for the video it was a big help when i put in M500 to stored. it doesn't say stored or do i turn off the printer and then back on
Yes. Power cycle the printer. If it didn't keep the settings just manually add them without do the autotune first. Also, make sure you copy down the original settings before changing them in case you need to back to factory settings. There is no rest to default feature.
Hey Steve, great vids, especially on these kobra max. If you still have the kobra max, I wonder if you could get the wiring harness diagram for the extruder motor. I manually extended my harness when I converted to direct drive, but I seem to have messed up the wiring. Thanks in advance!
Sorry for the delay in responding as I was doing some research on your question. Sadly, I don't have any schematics or wiring diagrams. the cables on my Max are not labeled either.
Hi Steve, just wondering why when I do a leveling on my Kobra max 1 and I go to print something it’s always way to deep? I have to bring it up to like .40 to be able to print. For some reason it seems the auto leveling isn’t working right. Any Ideas? I want to add a pei steel spring sheet but am afraid to buy one worrying it will gouge the plate from going to deep after the leveling procedure. Thank you for your time.
I have to admit that some of the sensors on the Max 1 can be faulty. It may not be measuring correctly and therefore making your leveling off. You didn't mention it but it sounds like the leveling is off the same amount across the entire bed. If you were going to replace something I'd try that first.
@@TheMakersCave Thank you Steve, will look into that once. Thanks for your quick reply.
Awesome video and I'm trying to follow everything to get mine set up. New to all this so it helps a great deal. One question about setting the e-steps, if you're using pla, why would you do it at 230 c when trying to test for The 100 mm test. Why wouldn't you do it at pla temp around 200 c?
I really didn't care about the temperature since I was printing anything. I just picked a temp a knew the filament would melt at. BTW, Thanks for watching, I appreciate it.
Have you ever had leveling issues with the kobra max? Ive had mine for 3 months now and no mater what i do i cant get the bed level
Right now my Max is down. the control board for the hot end went bad. But before that it was running fine with a good level, kinda. My wife mainly uses this printer and she was remarking that every few days she would need to relevel it. I have a new Kobra 2 Max that I need to do an unboxing/review on. I'm finding it hard to get the board to repair the OG Max so i'm probably going to just replace it with the Max 2.
Hiii,
Did you ever try to put an nozzle 0.8mm on it ? I did and I have so many issue , I can’t stabilised my setting.
No, haven't been brave enough to try different nozzles. I just picked up another Ender 3 Pro, maybe I'll use that to experiment with.
Great video!! Super easy to follow!!
Glad it was helpful!
@@TheMakersCave will I need to redo the PID if I change the nozzle to .6mm?
@@fadysinno264 If it's just the nozzle I don't think so, if it's the complete hot end or heat brake then yes, definitely.
informative well presented video. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
This video is absolutely excellent. Thank you SO much for taking the time to make this. Bloody brilliant. One question, I noticed from the top of your mark on the fillament to the tube looked like there was maybe 1 or 0.5mm. Is that okay? Or should we make it so its right upto the tip with 0mm.
it should be right up to the tip of the tube, but I've found a +/- of 1mm doesn't really make the printing any worse. Just found that getting it that close of adjustment improves the printing. I going to b e doing a video where I fine tune the x,z steps.
I'm trying to calibrate my bed on my new Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro, but every time I do I receive the following error - PID Autotune failed! Bad heater id
I had turned the printer off and then back on again and ran the PID command for the bed, and this time I did not receive an error. However, the bed never heated up. I turned the printer off and on again and this time I received the error again.
This is the command I am entering for the bed PID bed calibration - M303 E-1 C3 S60
Am I doing something incorrect or is the bed on this printer not able to be calibrated? I have Googled this error message and have had mixed resolutions. By the way, the hotend PID calibration finished without any errors.
Thanks!
Sorry for delay in getting back to you, I was doing some research. Let's start with your firmware, what version do you have? It will be easier if we email. You can use: Steve@TheMakersCave.com
So i've had my printer for about a week now, and it's worked fine for about... 4 days. After that i started having _massive_ layer shifts and everytime before it shifts i'd hear a grinding-ish noise. I've tried _everything_ but i still have this problem. Anyone who could help me?
I am so sorry for the delay. We had a major convention and then the last week Katrina and i have had a terrible flu. I sounds like one of your stepper motors is jamming and/or skipping steps. The printer doesn't know this so now it's lost it's positioning, hence the shift. I'm assuming this is a bed-slinger (the bed moves from front to back). With the machine off, so the motors aren't energized, can you easily move the bed back and both, trying going slow and slow increase how fast your doing it. If it binds or jams then that's where the problems is. If that is good, try the same thing with the Y axis for the hot end, that controls the hot end from going to the left and right. If there is binding or jamming then that's the problem. Try those tests and let me know. Email me because that is easier than chat comments :) Steve@TheMakersCave.com
Thank you!!!! I have done your tuning and it works like a charm.
I have some quick questions: I have the Kobra Max and it prints PLA perfectly, but I still struggle with PETG, basically the builds warp off the plate.
For Petg:
Do you use any adhesion or such on the build plate?
Plate temp?
Head temp?
Anything else in particular?
I use PETG exclusively on all my printers since I produce parts that will see some practical use. I don't have a warping issue on my Max and I'm using Overture PETG from Amazon. What brand filament you are using can affect what temps you print at. I have also found that the Max has a tendency to run about 10 to 20 degrees hotter than what you set it at. What are the brand's suggested temp and what brand is it?
@@TheMakersCave I use Anycubic's own, ironically I cannot find their recommended settings. You say that the Max is overheating, also after the PID tuning? What temps do you set for the brand you use?
@@joacbrod I found this on AC's website. www.anycubic.com/blogs/3d-printing-guides/petg-filament What temp are you currently printing at?
Can a power outage reset the settings to default? I was having uneven prints, so I calibrated it using your guide (great guide by the way), and it printed perfectly. However, we had a power outage, and it started printing uneven once more.
No, an outage shouldn't reset the settings. Can you tell if the settings are actually different? I always forget to write them down in case I need to refer back to them.
@@TheMakersCave I finished a second calibration, and it works fine. I wrote the settings down in case it messes up once again. Thank you!
What if you dont get an echo back from pronterface it just says sending when i put in the m301 PID tune?
Hi! What printer do you have? M301 saves the settings, what happens when you do the M303 to auto tune, does that command run and give you the PID numbers?
I have the anycubic kobra and connected to the pronterface but it wont let me change the com. My printer is in com3 but it only shows com1
HI! Thanks for watching. Want to confrim a couple of things. Make sure that only Pronterface (PF) is running. If you have a slicing program open along with PF it might not see the printer. Next, if in the Device Manager you can see that the printer is on Com3 but that port is not showing in PF trying rebooting the machine (if you haven't already tried that). If this doesn't work let me know and I'll try to help you :)
Maker Cave, how did you get rid of stringing? Do you have a Cura profile you can share?
I also use Cura, when I get to the Cave I'll send you the profile. I had a little bit of a problem with string and I upped my retraction speed and distance. I believe I changed the distance to 8mm, it made quite the difference.
Is it possible to go back to the original settings. After programming and leveling I started a test print. The nozzle dragged across and scratched the glass. It tried to print but continued to scratch it.
Adjusting the PID and filament eSteps doesn't affect the Z axis. If this is happening after a auto bed level the leveling sensor might not be doing it's job and you might have to make some adjustments to the Z offset from the printer's control panel.
Very nice video. I just subscribed. I purchased this printer 3 days ago and am learning. This video was simple clear and easy to understand. Great job.
One question. When you did the E-Step why did you choose Preheat ABS as opposed to Preheat PLA, or does it not make a difference?
As long as the heat you choose melts the filament you're fine. Getting the heat correct counts when you do your prints. However, when you do the PID autotune you definitely want to pick the heat you'll be printing at the most.
@@TheMakersCave Thank you for the reply. I am totally new and your vidoe is a great help. Could you also advise me on how to change the print speed. When I check the setting on the display the print speed is 100%. I was curious how you would change that to mm/s. I understant that it is set to 180mm/s but how would I know what the mm/s is if I set it to say 80% print speed.
Great Video Steve just a quick question for you, does this work with the regular Kobra? Keep up the great work I’ve been printing about a month and really enjoying it. Time now to tune things up. Thanks
I don't have a regular Kobra but it should work. I'm not sure what the firmware is on that printer so you might have to use the work-a-round I did in the video to save the settings.
I really enjoy your videos. Thank you for making them for us. I have had my anycubic kobra max for about 5 months now. I’ve done many large prints but I continue to have stringing an other issues. I finally got to,spend time trying to fix the issues by following these instructions. My laptop doesn’t show any device connected. I wish I could show you the cable connection. It doesn’t look like any USB connector I have seen before. I found a cable that had the same connector and a regular USB at the other end. Still nothing. I am new to the 3D hobby and I am so frustrated with it. Would you please let me know what cable I need? Thank you for your help.🙂
First, thanks for watching, I really appreciate. The Kobra Max uses a type B USB connector. They are found on most standard laser & inkjet printers. You would want a Type A to Type B USB printer cable. It sounds like you have the right cable if you can make the physical connection from the printer to the computer. What we need to find out is how the printer is show in Windows Device Manager when you plug into the computer. I would love to give you some help. Email me at Steve@TheMakersCave.com, that is easier than going back and forth here in comments. :)
If you can email me a picture of the USB port on the printer it would probably help. I have a very early model of the Kobra Max. I'm wondering if the they switched a USB Type B 3.0 port. That port looks a little funky. The early Type B's (1.0 & 2.0) look like a square, the Type B 3.0 are more rectangular, Taller than it is wide.
@@TheMakersCave I sent you the pictures. You will have two from me because the first email didn’t send with the pictures. Thank you for your help with this.