The Anycubic KOBRA MAX REVIEW
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 апр 2022
- The @ANYCUBIC3D Kobra Max is a new-yet-familiar offering from Anycubic. Does it pack a punch at a larger scale? Are the prints awesome? Is this something you want?
You'll have to watch and find out :)
NOTE April 7, 2022: Just heard from Anycubic, there is now a coupon on Amazon, that takes the Kobra MAX to $599
OLD NOTE: I was told in an email from Anycubic that the KOBRA MAX would be $599 on Amazon and $539 on their official website. I just checked, and it's $739 on Amazon and $569 on their website. I've sent an email to Anycubic, and I'm waiting on a reply. I hope this is just a mistake and not intentional deception.
Anycubic Kobra Max from anycubic.com
3d.pn/kobra
Anycubic Kobra Max from Amazon
amzn.to/35vYykH
MODELS:
Huge Robo Dragon by Hex3D
▶ www.hex3d.com
Print in Place Steam Engine
▶ cults3d.com/en...
SUPPORT! 😍
ETSY! ▶ www.etsy.com/s...
MERCH! ▶ the3dprintingn...
Patreon ▶ 3d.pn/patreon
FloatPlane ▶ www.floatplane...
BuyMeACoffee ▶ buymeacoff.ee/...
KoFi ▶ www.ko-fi.com/...
GEAR! 🎥🎦📷
Glowforge ▶ 3d.pn/glowforge (aff)
Prusa ▶ 3d.pn/prusa (aff)
Puget Systems ▶ 3d.pn/pugetsys...
Slice Engineering ▶ 3d.pn/slice
MATERIALS 🦇
Printed Solid ▶ 3d.pn/printeds...
FilamentOne ▶ 3d.pn/filamentone
Amazon ▶ geni.us/shopat... (aff)
Matterhackers ▶ 3d.pn/matterha... (aff)
Proto Pasta ▶ 3d.pn/protopasta (aff)
Nikko Industries 3D Printable Models ▶ bit.ly/3lK0WHi
THE TEAM! 🤟
The Website ▶ the3dprintingn...
Sean Connelly on Patreon ▶ / theseanconnelly
David Tobin on Twitter ▶ / david_tobin
--------------------------------
Find Me Socially!
--------------------------------
Twitch: / joeltelling
Twitter: / joeltelling
Twitter 3DPN: / 3dprintingnerd
Facebook: / 3dprintingnerd
Instagram: / joeltelling
Instagram 3DPN: / 3dprintingnerd
Discord: / discord
--------------------------------
Want to send me something?
--------------------------------
3D Printing Nerd
PO Box 55532
Shoreline, WA 98155
USA
Music in Episodes Comes From:
Epidemic Sound - 3d.pn/epidemics...
Future Vega - futurevega.sou...
Audio Micro - www.audiomicro....
FTC Disclaimer: A percentage of sales is made through Affiliate links 
Наука
In an email I was told the price on Amazon would be $599. I just checked, and Anycubic has it listed on Amazon for $739. I really hope this is an accident and I wasn't given incorrect information.
Havent seen this model before, could you link the stls in the description?
On Anycubic's own website it is $639 so, yes, it looks like it's $100 more than you were told.
I don't know how they be able to sell it at any of those prices should be $1200 I think.🤭
@@user-eu2pb9rr4l STLs linked in the description now.
It's up to $639 on their site.
Edit* That was for DE. US is $569
I have a anycubic Chiron with the same bed and you have to let the bed cool. Even under the print. People will touch the bed and think it's cool but under the print not so much. I come back a couple hours after the print finishes and even large prints will pop off with little effort.
You can also reduce your bottom layer flow rate a bit. Will help if your prints are sticking to much on any printer.
Thank you, Joel, for printing my engine! Amazing video, amazing size! Thank you!
I AM SO HAPPY YOU SAW IT!!!
All your engines are cool. Thanks!
that’s what she said
I flipped the plate over to the glass and had no problems with removing my prints once it cooled down. Also, I replaced the plastic bearing wheels with metal ones and no squeaking. Still going strong with no other issues . . . for now! 🍻 💪🏾
hey man just wondering, can you give an update if u still use it and if theres a yes or a no then tell me why? im thinking about getting one myself.. or is it outdated?
Just a tip I've learned that I want to share to everyone watching. When removing tpu from glass, do it while the glass is still hot. It's a lot easier to peel off that way. Otherwise once it cools down it holds to glass like glue! I like to catch it right at the end of the print and peel it off. I've tried reheating the glass after it has cooled down and that didn't seem to help much either. Happy printing.
Tpu you just roll the model up. Super ez.
Whenever I print TPU I do the same AND squirt a little bit of 99% isopropyl alcohol. It comes off so easily with just a tiny bit of alcohol
This applies to all printing surfaces.
TPU should be printet without a heated bed. I reactivated my Flashforge Finder which has no heated bed and it prints perfectly (and it's my only direct extruder ;))
Yeah I found that just reheating the bed helps to release the print when you're ready to take it off the bed.
I just stumbled upon this looking for Cura settings and you hit the nail on the head. I'm still playing with Cura just to see what works best, but out of the gate this thing was printing SO much better than my CR10 ever did.
My Cura settings were Vyper, but with correct bed dimensions. CRAZY how good it prints straight away right?
I keep searching for the best kobra max settings, my prints just string CONSTANTLY and after playing with temp, retraction and speed for days I just can't get the finish right. Where do you find these settings? :(
Joel, I enjoyed your review as always. I've been using flexible build plates on all my machines for a couple of years now, and I'll never go back to using tape or glue or whatever. Really can't see why you would ever want to mess with any of those methods when the flex plates are so easy to install (if the machine doesn't come with one) and so convenient to use.
Which one do you use?
But did you find one which is 400x400? I can‘t finde one that size.
@@McBearyOne - it's a year or two ago now, but we bought a small sheet of stainless steel on eBay, then trimmed it to fit our i3 - it even has an insulated handle! I'd certainly give that a try, it was not costly.
The other oddity with the name is the non-max Kobra is a direct drive (and has the flex plate) which makes the Max even more like a Vyper.
You would think printers would get better in the future, but it seems like anycubic is just hashing out the same thing
The Kobra is Anycubics answer to the Ender 3 S1 Sprite.
Your cuts and videos are stupendous! My smile was a permanent fixture from beginning to end. To me, failures due to a print bed, are a NON-ISSUE. "Im not buying this house... because I dont like the bedroom paint color."
Thank you. We will let Tucker know. He cut this one!
Very interesting setup for the Y. I dont mind how they did that oddly, figured I would. Distributing the load over 2 rails with lots of wheels is nice, but may lead to issues with those bearings with HEAVY prints. Any luck oiling the bearings? It sounded to me that it might have been in the extruder!
I have a anycubic chiron and it's an awesome machine for the most part I have used it a lot more than my ender 3. All the issues you're facing with the kobra I've had with the chiron which is disappointing given there is a few years between them you'd think they would have figured that out already. Blue masking tape has been my go to for my prints on the glass to help it release. I wish they released the nozzle bed levelling for aftermarket.
I have the Chiron as well, and after watching "This Korba Max looks suspiciously like an upgraded Chiron." 🤔
It is like an upgraded Chiron: all the new features and most of the upgrades. Things I did not see in the review: is there a filament run out sensor? Does the filament sensor detect stopped/jammed filament? Is the bed heating evenly? Does it resume properly after a power fail? Does the firmware allow notifications back to Octoprint when the filament runs out? Does the bed have amosfet so I can keep it powered after power loss?
I still like my Prusa mini
Very interested in this
Were the magnets reversed on the tool drawer?
IE - auto-eject mode?
That is a creality thing.
The problem with the tolerances not working when scaling... Thats another power of designing a model parametrically.
If you want to scale it afterwards you can do it with changing one number. If you use the parameters correctly.
Always start with a "scale" parameter, set to 1.
Include that scale parameter with ever measurement that is an actual dimension. so like "body_height_a*scale"
But dont include it in the tolerances.
You should even use parameters for every tolerance so you can tweak those in the entire model afterwards with the change of one number.
So say the tolerances need to be 0.1mm when you print with a 0.4mm nozel, but you switch to a 0.8 to print larger and it needs to be a larger tolerance, no problem. Change one number.
The printer look good and all but what Stephan did with the stl is way more intriguing to me lool.
He probably remodeled it to adjust the clearance that well for sure, working with an stl file is such a pain
A ton of people in the Vyper Facebook group begged them to make it so you can adjust the Z-Offset in 0.01 increments... And they just don't listen. Hope you as a larger creator will be able to convince them!
My experience with anycubic machines are they are either really damn good out of the box. Like insanely good... Or you get a dud and wires are disconnected, the bed is warped (actually that's on all machines from China not just anycubic), the motors are noises the belts aren't tensioned well, the ad card slot is faulty. It's weird how how good anycubic QC at times and how terrible they can be at others.
Agreed. My vyper prints so beautifully. Glad I got lucky. And it was a $150 Amazon returned printer!
Yer I purchased 2 mega S's they were fantastic so I brought the Chiron and wow what a mess, motor held in by 1 screw, wires lose and one motor trying to drive the heavy bed ment poor quality prints!!
I brought 2 mono x's for my RUclips channel one broke down after 4 months and the second broke after just 7 weeks. Anycubic customer service was absolutely terrible after 12 weeks with no fix I asked elegoo because I picked up a saturn in sales they fixed them in 3hs!! 🙄🙈
That's a small problem called "Lack of QA." That used to be a long meme in the guitar industry with Gibson, where subpar instruments were said to be done on Friday night.
One of the first things I got for my CR6 max was the flex plate, so much better than the glass. Which this looks like a very close 2nd cousin of the cr6 max.
Have you run into any issues with it stopping mid print?
@@landfallstudio3482 I had blockage issues on anything longer than 2 days until I upgraded the hotend cooling fan
I feel always so excited when there is new 3D printer with a large print volume in the market. I need an after some months review for Kobra Max.
Is there some problem or needed repairment in this following months?
Thanks for this video and your review
Covering the plate with scotch could be an option for models not to stick on?
I saw in some other videos but I wanted to ask you. Thanks
Thank God I ordered the extra satin build plate. I had a feeling it was available for a reason. My first printer was the Photon D2. I loved it so much 3 days later I ordered the Kobra Max bundle with a extra build plate I paid like $650 for the bundle with extra filament and build plate
Whats this rumor about Amazon trying to get rid of other 3D printer companies from its site? And using their own 3D printers?
I think they should’ve used a mesh build plate like the i3 mega X It holds on really well and when it cools down the Print just pops off
I have had the Chiron for years and have been satisfied with it. I have had things stick to the bed too hard, but I always use washable water gluestick now, and things come off quickly. It is built cheaply, though, and I have had to replace many parts. Luckily any cubic always sent them to me for free based on warranty. I did add a direct drive to mine instead of Bowden now, I had issues with the filament extruder just chewing up filament before, and I use it with a palette as well. The majority of the time, everything prints well for me. I upgraded all the parts and printed high-temp with it. When it is time for an upgrade, I will go with the max. as far as price is concerned, I don't see too many other printers that are competitive with it based on size and capabilities.
Have you considered G10/FR4 for the build surface? I switched from Creality's glass bed to the 1/16" G10/FR4 and it's amazing, the prints stick great during printing and slide right off when it cools and it's flexible so you can flex it to pop prints off as well and you don't need to heat bed with TPU.
Do you just buy a sheet and cut it to size?
3:50 is it just me or does the nozzle look slightly crooked?
It is kinda weird that they named it Kobra and not Vyper?? I was hoping for the same build plate as the little Kobra -- that one is freaking awesome.
they already have a vyper, that's their ender 3 clone
@@microArc I know what a Vyper is. This should have been a Vyper Max. Also, the smaller Kobra is going to eat the Ender's lunch. It's perfect.
I got the at squeak on a few of my printers as well, it was actually the cooling fan rubbing on the cowl of the print head, the blades where too loose on the fan and they wobbled enough to make that noise, also, in the case of my CR6 SE to rub a groove in the cowling housing. A fan swap fixed the issue, but it is a bummer that it happens form the factory like that.
Any time I get one of the beds with the silicon-carbide surface, I flip it over and print on the naked glass. While carborundum does a great job of holding onto models with a small footprint, the risk to my nozzle, combined with the weird behaviour on some filaments (black silk - might as well have been welded to the bed), makes it not worth it on anything but finicky prints in basic PLA.
Another great video, Joel! Thanks for posting!
I would absolutely buy this, if it was direct drive. I hate dealing with boden tubes
Same. Bowden also limits your options when it comes to flexible filaments.
Have you seen the Mingda Magician Pro? 400x400x400 direct drive.
Gotta idea…
Great non biased review btw. The world needs them all to be like this. Thanks.
So… I’m curious. Do you think a piece of RAM board (heavy duty super thin cardboard) would work?
If not then maybe even a brass plate
Or even aluminum foil wrapped around the plate and when done peel it away.
Grabbin at straws.
I’ve been window shopping these printers looking for tool and machinery part print capabilities.
This model looks best so far(from my POV) any tips let me know.
Thanks again
This seems to be a user issue, not the bed.
Are you using the carborundum glass bed properly? Once they cool down, the parts just fall off. So if you are trying to take it off while the bed is hot, yes, it will stick, that's what it is designed to do. You have to wait for it to cool to remove the part, and then it will just lift off without issue.
I think the "Gotcha" here is they lied about pricing to you.
Dude. I’m SUPER upset about this.
0.05 is 50% of 0.1 and 25% of 0.2. that's plenty. might have a consistency problem when touching off for the offset? If that is like the chiron sadly the Sc plate is permanently attached to the very thin aluminum. its my only real complaint about the chiron (predecessor to this one)
Joel, I have not been able to get one good print. I have layers shift all over and poor quality layers. what slicer do you used?
Poor
Sir Layersalot struck down with a single blow. What a dangerous weapon!
When printing TPU on smooth beds I always use glue stick. On textured surface (like on Prusas) TPU peels off easily and no glue is needed.
i would like the machine to have a sheet of build tack on it. my original m3 mega came with it before they went to the ultra base. i love it. easy to remove items. but nice to see what it can do. the prints look awesome.
400mm isn't big! we need 1 meter and 2 meter printers. We need to be able to print molds for canoes, planes and cars. Not be limited to shelf trinkets.
Oh believe me, I’ve seen big machines. Just check back a few videos :)
@@3DPrintingNerd 4x5x6 feet is a good build volume but then they develop delusions of grandeur and self inflicted quarter million dollar price tag bs. It just doesn't complicate the design much to go bigger. If a good 500mm printer can be had for 500$ then a 1000mm should be available for at most 4000$. Likely must less if it's essentially the same design with larger beams and a bit bigger motors and bigger heater. In europe we can pull 2400watt from a wall socket and if necessary 4000watt without going to 3 phase.
We don't need the old delusional crowd that thinks everything should be posturingly expensive. We need cost effective. It's not that hard. If you want to add well insulated walls to it to keep it warm, fine, make that an option. If it can't fit in a shipping container, they did something very wrong. And while we are on the topic, make a printer that fits exactly inside a 20 foot shipping container. Heck the container can be an integral part of the design and use nearly the full volume. I shouldn't have to say these things. What the eff are people doing. Get on it! it's been decades. They had one job :) a 3D printer takes so little strength that even container size printer can be very inexpensive. How cool would that be if people could afford such a printer and start making boats, planes, cars. It doesn't matter if it takes a month to print a mold for a plane. It works on its own.
And for big printers they could look into developing a nozzle with a multiaxis spatula so it can shape a large bead and create smooth surface prints fast.
It is a vyperized Chiron. I sell 3D printers so I see all the faults and the only time I ever saw a piece of glass pulled off the bed was on the Anycubic 4Max Pro. Problem with this is the Chiron is very reliable and cheap. Hard to justify the massive price jump over that one.
For those printing TPU and having trouble removing it from Flexible Beds.remove the be from the machine and go to the sink and drench that print in isopropyl alcohol and carefully remove the part with or without the help of a spatula
I'm looking to get into 3d printing for the first time, so I don't know anything about this subject.
But I'm a good cook and often use parchment paper to cook things on. (Life hack - No washing dishes). That's rated to about 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Would it be possible to use a sheet of parchment paper to save your base?
I ALWAYS use hairspray on my glass beds, not for adhesion, but as a release agent. I started doing that right after I tore a chunk of glass out of my glass bed when printing with PETG.
you are the 2nd you tuber to talk about the bed braking 😮
do you know if preheating the bed made any difference 🤔
great review thanks for the video 😊
How would you go about getting a flexible bed instead of a glass bed?
I don't know how people get stuff to stick to the carborundum coatings. I almost always need to flip the bed over to get good adhesion.
I'm inclined to get one of these. In your expert opinion what is the best 3d printer i can get right now for under $1000.
I'm looking for something "functional" , i don't want 3d printing as a hobby, i don't want to print thing that i can get at a 99 cent store, I'm looking for real functionality without having to spend hours tinkering with the printer, fixing and upgrading. I just want the brunt of my work to be kept in the design and development of the products that i need and not to focus on the printer itself. (Also ideally I would like to be able to print in large format but its not a deal breaker. some of the items i need to design are about 17" long)
Good video. You are straight forward and 2 the point without the ridiculous intro that everyone seems to have. Don't change.
I bought the original Anycubic Viper about a year ago. The auto leveling sensor went bad on it. Anycubic sent me out a new kit and harnessed to rebuild it. Spent about two hours rebuilding with the new harness and pressure sensitive board. Now the auto bed leveling works perfect except the filament feed no longer works. I order a new stepper motor plugged it in and it made several weird sounds then went dead. So it this point the printer is just sitting in the corner. If it's the main board I have no idea how to fix it. I would think twice about buying this product.
I have had filament feed issues with Vypers and it was just a loose grub screw on the extruder gear.
Use hairspray for RELEASE of sticky filaments. A little alcohol on the bed and the hairspray dissolves leaving your part nice and free!
Stefan to the rescue 😀.
Seems Like a decent Machines, but truht be told a flexible removable build Plate is a must nowadays.
Great video, Joel!! It was good seeing you in Jerry's live show today. You should have joined in with us on the stream! 😊 👍
Mine arrived with a broken filament motor, so I had to send it back or wait 10-16 weeks for a replacement. I ended up returning an got different printer.
Hey! Nice Job!
Have you fixed the sticky base problem?
what brown butcher paper, or a light coat of vegitabe oil?
Just got a AnyCubic Photon Mono X, so much to learn!
Thanks again!
I really hope they fixed the heat bead wiring. In the Chiron they used tinned and undersized wiring and it was a major fire hazard.
I have got the latest Cobra Max,-still in the box- About the plate...I would use a heat gun in the meantime to help release the print from those areas because I know it could even take a chunk of your plate I drastic enough. Remember it is designed to hold large prints.
Thank you for your great reviews, Joel!!
Thanks for watching!
About the glass bed adhesion... did you try lowering the recommended bed temperature for the material? I have found with other bed surfaces that the amount of bed adhesion could be controlled by raising or lowering bed temp.
Would you say its worth buying the extra parts for it such as the Heated Bed For Anycubic Kobra Max, Glass Plate for Anycubic Kobra Max, Bearing Pulley for Chiron/Vyper/Kobra series 5Pcs, Extruder for Anycubic Kobra Max/Plus, Hotend for Anycubic Kobra Max, Motherboard For Anycubic Kobra Max?
G'day Joel. Great video mate. Kudos for providing such constructive feedback and an honest review. Loved the big model aeroplane motor you built. Shame it didn't run, as I would've loved to see it go. Cheers from downunder. Aaron.
i would wonder if the nozzle doing the adjusting by touching the plate, would hurt something like garolite or some other meltable thing. I never tried to melt garolite, but i'm pretty sure it bends.
Hello Joel! I saw your review about the Kobra Max. So, after 2 month and i think, many print. What do you think ? Is this printer still a good choice for printing large parts?
I got my Kobra max for a good price. two con about this printer : the quality insurance is very low but manageable and the difficulty to change the firmware. the pro are numerous: the bed is sticking so well that you don't need it to print, the nozzle is compatible with volcano hot end, the extruder is dual gear, dual z are synchronized with a belt, etc ...
I've fell in love with using hair spray as my water soluble interface adhesion layer.
Thanks great video I have coming in two weeks. A question? When doing your first leveling did you lower your bed completely down before auto leveling?
Thanks for a detailed review/overview. I really appreciate the delivery and will consider this for my next printer
Can one change the extruder orientation on this printer, so the filament can be fed from a shelve above or in the back ? I find placing the filament on the side very inconvenient.
Fatal Mistake that they do not include anywhere in the manual:
The bed clips cannot be placed on the side of the bed. Just the front. It'll dig into the circuits underneath and you'll run into a hotend NTC error which you'll need a new board
im curious if those squeaky roller wheel bearings offer an advantage over the rods like in Prusa MK3S+
Squeaky bearings are caused by under lubrication, maybeyou should oil the parts before installing them, you wouldent bulld an engine without assembly lube and expect it to run dry, why would you think a printer doesent need any, ultra slick is my favorite and you can’t hear my printers. This isent a anycubic problem this is an assembly problem, lube is one of the more important steps in building any machine.
First of all, great video, love the humor lol. Question I have is this printer big enough to handle 1/32 scale models of sections for assembling buildings, I tried finding info on what size of 3D printer needed for 1/32 scale with no luck, will this one work or one of the cheaper costing Kobra's, thanks for any help...
Great review. I just got mine today. Putting it together now.
How much space do I need for this model to fit on my work table? I have a max of 36 inches depth (91.5 cm). Would this be enough? The Kobra Max already has 72cm depth.
Joel…. I use bumble and bumble oil free finishing spray on my build surfaces. I first spray the area lightly, then bake to 90 untill it’s done drying. Abs and other prints so good with this. It’s the only thing I can find that will really hold down well but release when cool. And I’ve tried a lot of sprays. I dare you to test. Say good bye to glue sticks..
I have a question as im fairly new to this. I own the cr-10s and i use cura which had a printer profile listed, but since the max is so new it doesnt have one. Can i just use the vyper profile and change the bed dimensions?
the squeak is probably not the bearings but actually the belts when changing directions.
easy removing:
just use cfk plates in the right size, clamp them down with these metal-paper-clamps. grind it a little bit with 300 grit and use 3dlac for adhesion. bed temperature while printing about 80°C. when cooling off, the print will just fall off.
works with most materials.
PP for example doesnt work.
Joel, can you share your printer profile for cura? The printer does not have one and I seem to continue to have some struggles getting it all dialed in
Work has a printer that uses the hotend tip to bed level. It’s terrible, and you’ll need to make sure the nozzle is clean, or it will affect the z-offset and first layer, and it's really inconsistent.
Flexible build plates should really be standard by now. The print bed of the Vyper is perfect but maybe it is not manifactured in larger sizes? For my Anycubic Mega X i bought a magnetic, removable, flexible bed and it is way simpler now to get the prints off the plate (but the removable layer is starting to fall apart after about 500 prints so be careful with it)
Is there not an opton to adjust the z axis offset. Its auto oeveling, and so if its adhering too much it might just need backing off 0.01mm or so to make it easier to remove.
G-10 works great for me on my sovol SV03 as a build plate! As long as the z-offset is about right, it grips everything!
is there a way I can ask lots of questions? my printing is going awful. It was working so well, and now I think it seems clogged etc and not adhering went through and did all the manual said
how can you really mitigate the rigid bed issue? do you have exactly which flex-bed sheet can i use there?
My Atom 2.0 delta 3D printed did the same auto bed leveling. But all my prints were not able to stick on the edges. They would always lift slightly.
Just bought a refurbished one and was curious if anyone knows what dimond back nozzle i can buy for this thing.
I think Sean is having a little too much fun with the editing, but I LUV IT! At least you can't singe your hair with a vacuum. Or can you?
I had the exact same bed issue that you had, where the surface pealed off of my Ender 5 Plus, along with some of the glass. ABS stuck a little too well to it. It seems like the surface micro-fractures over time, to a point where they eventually become large enough cause the surface to fail. Once the first piece chipped off, I started seeing gouges across the entire surface.
Tucker had the edit on this one! We will let him know!
Hi ... i was wondering if you had any cura/prusa slicer profiles that are better than the stock one they give with the machine? i am having issues with Z moving and dragging on the print without moving up first. also, there is no nozzle prime like the prusa slicer does in cura. so if you are willing to share a profile, it would be great. thx for all the videos and information you provide to us. we really appreciate it.
Hi Joel. I was wondering what slicer you are using for the Anycubic Kobra Max.
It sounds like anycubic needs to put a thicker (relatively flat) aluminum bed plate on it and a removable build plate with it. I think that would be nice since the thin aluminum bed plates warp alot
Heya, I was wondering if you could do a bit more in depth video on how the "nozzle touch bed leveling" and if it could be implemented on say a anycubic Mega style printer?
I have an Ender5 PRO and right out of the box it has squeaky bearings. It appears to be common amongst printers now.
Hey Joel... I wondering, will you be able to get hold of and build and test out the biggest hobby level printer I've ever seen the new Tronxy X5SA-600.
It has the new auto leveling black sensor for all bed types and a big ..big print area.
Of 600 mm x 600 mm x 600 mm..
So 2 feet square print area to try out. I hope you get it so we all can see this monster cube design frame printer?
Thanks 😄
Making month long prints is not my idea of fun.
Joel, I love that Endor-gonia tshirt! Any chance you’d share where you got it or where we can pick one up?
I just got my first 3d-printer which is the the Anycubic Mega X, printed quite a bit with a it. No squeaky bearings (yet).
What slicer are you using? If Cura, what profile? Those prints look AMAZING. The Kobra Max is my 4th FDM printer I've gotten from this company and have been quite pleased with them all.
I loaded the profile for the Vyper, then changed the x y and z values to match the Max, then printed. That's it!
Great video, I cant stop replaying this review, can it print Polycarbonate?
I could use settings for this machine - Cura or Prusa. I did successfully print with a modified Viper profile, but it didn't control the heat as expected, and if you could point me to a good profile (I can't find one online), that would by great!
I had my son print an adapter to go from my shop vac and my Milwaukee 110v router and another one for my Milwaukee M18 dual action sander. Maybe you should do the same for the engine. Maybe Stephan can do it for you?
Hi Joel, what would you swap( 3d printing related) for a first issue of UK Doctor who comic 1980s still with original free gift? I hope you're still a Dr who fan.
Would you recommend this as a upgrade or a newer version for the ANYCUBIC chiron ?