Anycubic Kobra Max HUGE 3D Printer Review
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- Опубликовано: 28 янв 2023
- Price on Amazon: amzn.to/3HiRCWY
I'm super impressed with this Anycubic Kobra Max 3D printer. Its 400mm x 400mm x 450mm build volume is great for large prints that most other printers can't handle. 
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Thank you, this review helped me decide to purchase this 3D printer
Nice I’m hoping to upgrade to this in the near future
someday i want one. thanks for sharing
Awesome review!
thanks for the video brother. i was on the fence about ordering this printer but this review sold me on it. i was nervous cuz i keep hearing bad things about anycubic from the comment section on facebook
I just recommended it to a friend, and he bought the Kobra Plus (slightly smaller version of the Max). He's really happy with it, but told me the same thing about the negativity on the Anycubic Facebook group.
In my experience, Anycubic makes generally decent machines that are lacking in quality control sometimes. Treat it like a creality where if something breaks, expect to fix it yourself. I had an Anycubic Chiron for about 3 years, so I'm looking to upgrade to this one now that the heat bed cable snapped.
ender 3 and kobra max have different type of extruders so stringiness in tpu can be cause of that...and ofc volcano hotend it has melts more plastic ...so playing with retraction speeds can massively improve the tpu quality...and yes it can print well tpu when tuned right :) also for faster printing u can get Volcano CRT nozzles for volcano and it does do wonders :)
Great Review. I just bought mine and it arrives tomorrow. I've been using the Vyper and wanted something I wouldn't have to split for larger builds like helmets. I love the Vyper though for it's interface and self levelling so I was really happy to find the Kobra Max gives me everything I love in the Vyper and such a huge build size.
I've been debating upgrading to the PEI spring steel plate for the Kobra Max. How do you like the one the Vyper has?
@@DoresoomReviews I'm considering the same. I love the plate on the Vyper. Adhesion has been 100% and I've never had any problem, and the flexible magnetic surface makes prints really easy to remove.
5 months later, what is your take on the Kobra Max?
Still love it, it still works great.
I have it and I had trouble with it. honestly was ok but felt cheap compared to my creality cr10 pro v2. it doesn't have manual adjustments and trouble getting the first layer perfect. the z axis doesn't move in increments of 0.01 so its hard to get perfect.
This is one of the most informative, well paced Videos on KOBRA MAX Printer that I just watched. Good job sir.
I feel like I wasted a good 45 min watching 5 other videos that, combined, didnt even hit on all the facts you did.
RUclips is blowing it without better search filter abilities.
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome review! I'd love to make the marble machine for my daughter. Did you have to do anything other than resize it for the bed size?
Nope, just scaled it all in proportion.
Awesome video! Is there a way to send me your setting for PLA for this printer. I been having trouble with prints.
Awesome review. It's the Kobra with Anycubic ultrabase?
Thanks! There are actually quite a few differences between the Kobra and Kobra Max other than build volume (I have both printers, BTW).
- Kobra has a direct drive extruder, Kobra Max has a Bowden extruder.
- Kobra has a spring steel PEi coated bed, Kobra Max has the Glass Ultrabase bed
- Kobra has a non-contact inductive bed level sensor, Kobra Max has a strain gauge sensor that actually contacts the bed.
-Kobra has single z axis lead screw, Kobra Max has dual.
-Kobra has single y axis rail, Kobra Max has dual.
Hello, please help me. I am very confused. Which of these printers is more suitable and healthy? Which one would you recommend me to buy? 🥺🙏🏻
Creality Cr 6 Max
AnyCubic Kobra Max
AnyCubic Chiron
Elegoo Neptune 3 Max
Has anybody tried iSanghu Carbon fiber filled ASA? I have no luck with it sticking to the bad.
Any advice for bed leveling? I've tried everything but I can't get an even single layer print. It's too far on the front left and back right, but the other corners are good.
If you've already run the auto leveling routine and manually adjusted Z-offset if necessary, try editing your start G-Code to include the M420 S1 command.
In Cura, for menu options select “Settings”>>“Printer”>>“Manage Printers”>>“Machine Settings”.
There you'll see the start G-Code that's executed before every print. Add another line after the G28 auto home command and insert "M420 S1". That will re-enable auto bed leveling after the G28 auto home wipes it out.
I didn't have any trouble with my Kobra Max initially with auto bed leveling. However, when I got my standard Kobra and installed the profile in Cura, I started having trouble with both my new Kobra and my Kobra Max ignoring their auto bed leveling data. (I also had updated Cura simultaneously, so more than one variable was in play.) After some Googling, adding that M420 S1 command fixed the problem immediately for the Kobra Max. My standard Kobra turned out to be too far out of level for the auto leveling to compensate for, and I had to make further mechanical adjustments to the bed and X axis gantry to get that one working right.
My Kobra Max prints horrible. Now redoing the e-steps and al the test prints. But never had satisfying prints on it.
Thanks for posting; I just got mine. What happens if you make that vase, or marble item with the original nozzle?
It just takes longer for regular prints. The marble run was with the original 0.4mm nozzle. Anything you print in vase mode will be a little weaker, since it will have a wall thickness of 0.4mm instead of 0.8mm
What slicer are you using? I couldn't get cura to slice a few models and had to swap to prusa slicer, curious if you'd be willing to share your settings and help a newbie out with calibrating this thing
I'm using Cura. I started with their default PLA profile that comes with the printer, and did a few temperature and retraction towers for each brand of filament. It can be really brand dependent for the perfect settings.
Did you have any issues calibrating to use the 0.8mm nozzle? I'm thinking I am going to switch to it right away as I am getting this for big prints, not small detailed stuff
After replacing the nozzle, I just changed the line width to 0.8mm, the layer height to 0.6mm, and played around with print speed. You'll have to go slower since it's extruding 6X the volume than the default configuration. I found different types of PLA required different speeds for the hot end to be able to keep up. I'd start at half the speed you were using with the 0.4mm nozzle and adjust from there. An easy way to do it is adjust the print speed percentage on the fly in the user interface. If your extruder starts slipping or grinding on the filament,, then slow down.
I wish I saw the marble track in action.
This is about to be my first 3d printer. good plan or think about it?
Bless me pls
This printer was pretty easy to set up if you're a beginner. It's a much bigger investment starting out than an Ender 3 or Kobra, but if you're sure you'll need the larger print volume, then go for it!
What is your settings for printing TPU? That's the filament I'm having most trouble with and I'd like to know in your experience would be the best settings for printing TPU with this printer.
I just copied the parameters from CHEP's TPU profile for the Ender 3: ruclips.net/video/sGxewzACO9g/видео.html
I'm using Overture TPU: amzn.to/3ZYR8gJ
Great review. It makes so much noise?
It is noisier than other 3D printers I've used. I run it in our basement and can occasionally faintly hear it when I'm upstairs. It's just subfloor and flooring though, with no insulation between.
I can't bloody decide on a new printer.. voron.. great! Vyper great!! Kobra great bamboo X1 ams fantastic buuuuuut has way to many company specific parts and I absolutely despise that... However as a whole it's freaking cool haha 😆 and I'm trying to purchase for less maintenance then I'm doing now lol
2yrs in and I'm now repairing more then I'm printing and that's not kewl haha
Can you please give us the link to the 3d print model for the marble machine you have there?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1340784
hi i just got anycubic kobra max. how to change to 120v to 220v i cant fine it no where. and how to conn your anycubic with a usb to ultimaker cura on your computer.went i turn off my printer i can hear it desconn .went i open up ultimaker cura. it say hook up to you printer
I don't believe there's a switch on the Kobra Max like there is on other Anycubic printers. The power supply says it can handle 110/220V. I haven't actually hooked up to my laptop with the USB connection - I just use a microSD card, which I think is easier anyway.
do FDM printers while printing makes smells and odors like resin printers?
There's really no detectable odor for FDM printers, at least with the materials I print with (PLA, TPU, PETG). If I get right next to it and inhale deeply while it's printing, I can get a faint whiff of melted plastic. But the air quality monitor I have located on the same workbench doesn't detect any increase in VOCs or particulate while printing.
Cura Profile?
I have had zero issues with mine until now- Currently my extruder is not homing properly and going too far down. I am unsure of how to troubleshoot and could use any guidance you have to offer.
Check the inductive sensor on the z-axis gantry. It may be faulty or just not plugged in securely.
@@DoresoomReviews can you say that in ultra beginner terms lol
On the left upright post, there's a sensor slot that a metal tab slides between when the nozzle is almost at the bed. Unplug and re-plug that cable. Then run the auto bed leveling program and see if that fixes the issue. If that doesn't fix it, try going into Settings and increasing the Z Offset to keep to from crashing into the bed.
Any tips for 1.2 Nozzle with PETG Filament?
Slow way down! I've only gone up to a 0.8mm nozzle with PLA. You're in uncharted waters! 😄
I keep having fails on the initial layer of my max so screws up my whole print it strings right off the bat so screws up the first layer any tips?
Try adjusting your z offset lower. After homing the print head, the nozzle should be the thickness of a piece of printer paper above the bed. Adjust the z offset lower until you can feel resistance when sliding a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed. Also try applying a glue stick to the bed covering the area you plan to print in.
@@DoresoomReviews ill try that thankyou appreciate the advice ill let ya know how it goes
Fisher Price! Ordered one & Sent it straight back, It turned up used with a failed print left on the machine.. I Guess that's what you get for £500 so I purchased the Creality CR M4 instead.
Where did you buy it from? So you didn't even use it and declared it junk?
@@DoresoomReviews couldn’t use it the spool holder & other parts were missing, no quality control. It had clearly been returned then sent to me without checking over, if your happy to waste money for second hand junk then go ahead 👍
How does this one compare to the Elegoo Neptune 3 max?
I haven't used that one sorry. It would just be me reading off it's specs same as you can do.
Does it have power loss recovery? That's the only thing I can't find out 😂
Yes it does.
Where can i find the print file for the Marble Run???
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1340784
Awesome! Thank you for sharing this information. Question, i notice on anycubic Kobra max it doesn’t have a factory settings switch voltage meaning 230 volts to 115? Is that ok ?
I don't see a 115V vs 230V switch anywhere on it. I've got mine running on 110V just fine. The data plate on it says it's rated for 110V or 220V, so I assume the power supply can handle either.
The funny thing is, I also just bought a Kobra for the direct drive extruder, and ran into the shutdown error when I tried to print. It was the 110V/220V switch on the back that was set wrong.
@@DoresoomReviews thank you for responding I appreciate it. Which Kobra print max or pro, with that issue?
@@anthonyrickardii6198 Just the regular Kobra. It heated the nozzle and bed just fine running on 110V, but as soon as I hit print the screen would just go blank. The fix was easy - just flipping the power supply switch. But I had to Google it because I would have expected the machine not to turn on at all when set to the wrong voltage.
@@DoresoomReviews that’s interesting thank you for your advice I appreciate it
And does that control panel not have. The simple option of estep vstep etc?.... My i3 does that far out 😆
Yeah, I was really surprised there was no built in interface for calibrating esteps. You have to connect to a computer to do it with Pronterface or other similar program.
@@DoresoomReviews bugger!! Thankyou for getting back to me I appreciate it :)
I've had a roll of tpu 95a sitting on my bench for 6 weeks after having to suddenly rebuild my printer ... Lesson learnt it had built up so much crap it was the only thing keeping it tight haha .. either leave it be or do it allllll the time hahah... Not keen on a tpu melt through . My cat did that years ago to my da Vinci.. entombed my extruder so glad it didn't catch alight but 😅
How do you print multicolour items on this printer that takes only one filament? Thanks
I used a color change filament that gradually fades from one color to another as you print: amzn.to/43Srsp6
For something like that, color change rate depends directly on how big each layer slice is. For small objects you'll barely notice a difference in color, for large ones like the marble run they will change colors rapidly.
I've also used a tri-color filament that shows different colors depending on which direction the print head is moving: amzn.to/4aiMUWt
Or if you want to get fancy and switch colors once or twice between layers in a print, you can either customize the g-code to stop at a certain layer so you can swap filaments, or you can watch the print like a hawk and manually pause it and swap filaments.
@@DoresoomReviews Thank you so much for a very quick replay. Alright, but in general this printer is just single colour? And can't print the same as for example Bambu Lab X1-Carbon where the printer changes the colours when needed? Well I understand that we can pause and change manually but I more interested in automatic colour swap do Anycubic do something like this as BambuLab is a few times more expensive printer :(
Yes, in general this printer is single color. The Bambu X1C looks like a great printer (which I've been eyeing for a while!), but with the AMS it's 3-4 times the cost of this one. I don't think Anycubic makes a multi-filament printer unfortunately.
@@DoresoomReviews Thanks, yes BambuLab is really expensive but when I look what it can it is really amazing printer. Unfortunately they doesn't have the bed sizes like Anycubic has which makes Anycubic still really good printer to have for bigger prints I guess. Many thanks
Is there a github link for your settings and gcode?
No, sorry I don't have those posted. I've found it depends enough on the filament that' it's better to start with the provided PLA profile and then run some temperature, and retraction towers for fine tuning. I used CHEP's TPU profile for the Ender 3, just adapted to the Kobra Max printer profile.
Elegoo Neptune 3 Max. Larger build volume. Direct drive. Filament on top not to the side. PEI print bed standard. better product in my opinion
Looks like a great printer, but it's only on pre-order now and not out until July. I think the biggest advantage is direct drive if you want larger TPU prints, but then you're probably taking a hit with print speed slinging around the extra mass.
@@DoresoomReviews To be honest not really. its dual z and the hot end is very small for a direct drive. With the PEI plate instead of glass its light. Im printing at 80mm/s with no issues and can go up to 120mm/s with very little drop in finish.
What slicer did you use
Cura 5
👍
Any chance you'd be willing to share your print profiles? Cura doesn't estimate time properly unless I use the Anycubic official ones, and they only have a 0.2 profile for PLA and TPU, nothing else :(
I've never gotten the Cura estimate to match up with actual print time either. It's about 5-10% longer than the estimates each time. I took their PLA profile and tweaked it with some temperature and retraction towers specific to the Overture PLA I'm using. And I just copied CHEP's TPU profile for the Ender 3 into the Kobra Max print volume.
Can it print PETG?
Yes, I have an example of a PETG benchy later in the video.
Kobra max or Neptun 3 max?
I haven't used the Neptune 3 Max, so I couldn't say.
I bearly gor my kobra max about a month ago and cura started crashing Don't know what to do Now
Try reinstalling the last stable build of Cura. Or possibly try a different slicer.
What slicer would u recomend me
I've only used Cura myself, but you could try slic3r, Prusaslicer, or simplify3d
Ayuda Compre una impresora 3d y no sirve y aliespress dice que no hay evidencias que hago ruclips.net/video/F2Wn_dsH1JM/видео.html ayuda impresora Anycubic Kobra max no sirve
I'm not sure exactly what's going on in your video, but from what I can tell your extruder temp (EO) says zero for your print settings on the screen. What do you have your extruder temperature set to in your slicer?
Stop with inches, start with metric.
No.
WOw! Am impressed with Anycubic Kobra Max HUGE 3D after you gave a review on it. Great review so far! We'd like to collab with you, and we'd love you to check your email/inbox for more info. Thank You!🙂