This was an incredibly helpful video. Thank you. I can pull stuff apart easy enough but always concerned if I'm doing it right. It took me awhile to find it but it earned you a subscriber. Again thank you for this!
@@OuterRimArmorer I literally just finished putting it back together and it works great. My boden tube came out with no problem. my clog was at the tip of that metal tube the boden fits it. The only real "critic" i would give about the video, now that I did mine, is to make sure that the metal tube, that holds the boden tube, isn't threaded all the way down. I found that the tip wouldn't thread in all the way because it bottomed out on that metal tube. I didn't take pics of that part so had to go back into your video so see what the spacing was on that collar of the metal tube was from the hot end they both thread into. But again, overall it was immensely helpful.
thanks for the great video! just had my first clogged tip and had no idea what i was doing lol. heating the hot end up before screwing the new tip in help loads.
I simply swapped the heatbreak for a bi-metal heatbreak for CR6. This also lets me use standard volcano nozzles. I've got well over 10kg of filament through it and haven't had a single clog or blockage.
@@OuterRimArmorer i pulled the upper tube and only have a 2" section feeding into the top of the extruder as a guide and i moved the filament holder to the top of the gantry... makes it soooo much easier to work with.
Had the same trouble with the kobra max, I replaced the heat break throat with a Copper Titanium Bi-Metal Heat break Throat from amazon and no more clogs. The teflon tubing on the old throat goes all the way through and and fits tight against the hot nozzle and burns. the bi-metal throat that I replaced it with, the teflon tubing only goes 4.5mm into the throat where it's not as hot. You will have to change the length of the teflon tube to fit. If you don't change it, you will have to keep the hotend temps lower.
prior to bi-metal being a readily available option I always just swapped the ptfe with either refrigeration tubing or DOM straight copper tubing, same OD and ID as the PTFE, never had to worry about melting, and 1 foot of the good stuff costs ~5 bucks
Thanks, the other day I came across this www.amazon.com/dp/B0BY2M3TQX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I have not had the time to put it in yet, but i think it will work.
I feel your pain when you sighed. Im having my first extruder clog in the Kobra 2 Max after just having gotten both my Bambu Lab P1S printers up and running again. If it's not one thing, it's another.
had a clog in my Kobra 2 Max also, could not easily get the clogged nozzle clean and out of frustration just held it with pliers over the flame of the gas stove in the kitchen and to my surprise the PLA oozed out. after that i could use the cleaning tool provided by Anycubic. Had some issues with the Kobra 2 Max but most of it was on me to be honest and after the firmware update at least the mid print stopping is over.
I 3D printed for 3 years and I can sympathize with you on the whole one printer down one working issue. That was always my situation and was so agonizing!!! It's why I got away from printing . I became very good at repairing them but also got tired of it. I was just about to buy this printer because of the great reviews then I saw this and brought me back to all those repairs I had to do. Now I'm leaning towards not returning to this . Plus I'm more busy now then I ever was before with work . Anyway great video .. I agree there should not be a Bowden tube there that was stupid or cheap of anycubic.
Great video! Forgive me for my bad English! I've a Kobra 2 and I bought Bowden PTFE tube Capricorn to replace it with the old one. I want to change also the Bowden tube in the heatbreak with Capricorn PTFE, but I'd like to know what is its exact lenght to be cropped. Could you kindly provide me with the length of that small piece of Bowden tube? Once I have inserted it, does it continue to move like on the video? How did you block its movement? Thanks!
i had the same bloody problem, looks like that blue tube melt a bit, and left space for filament to build up and mess it up. similar solution, it come out a bit easier to be, but i did exact the same as you, change the nozzle and still cogging. Hope this is just one time.. pretty new printer less than a month and having this issues (Kobra 2 pro )
hey i got my kobra 2 max(my first 3d printer) and i use the default setting from anycubic's slicer since I don't know a lot of stuff for now, i use esun pla+ do you have any settings that you recommend to me? Also, the default speed is probably at 300 without changing something, right?
I print on my AK2M at 250-300mms. My PLA temps are usually 220/60. Printing some calibration tests would probably be in your best interest though. That will really help you dial in your filament settings to your printer.
Happy to help. Fixing a 3D printer is mostly a lot of tinkering or has been for me for the past couple years. Something new breaks and I have to learn how to fix it. Then try to remember to share that knowledge. Lol 😂
So is Kobra 2 max not worth it? It’s on sale right now only for a few hours left, and I’ve been contemplating this whole weekend wether to buy it or not. I’m coming from an Ender3 v2, so I don’t mind the tinkering
That’s a good question. I wouldn’t think so because a clogged hotend is fairly common but if it did void the warranty than Anycubic products wouldn’t be worth buying. I need to look into this more to give you the correct information.
Glad im not the only one (despite what customer service says) There has got to be a way to prevent this. Then the sensor is all messed up and it gouges the bed 🤦♀️
Did you find a metal solution? I basically made this exact video last night but mine clogged again because I reused a semi damaged tube.@@OuterRimArmorer
I just did the same thing haha, first clog on my plus. Of course Anycubic was sold out of new nozzles. I purchased a 20 nozzle set of different sizes. Hopefully will work haha. Should know tomorrow
I purchased some off brand nozzles for both printers. They seem to work fine. Just read the reviews and make sure other people are having decent luck with them before you buy anything.
I’ve had the little Bowden tubes degrade and wear out twice now on this printer. Save yourself a headache and buy a Capricorn Bowden tube to put in there. The spare ones that come with it are garbage
i have the kobra 2 plus but sometimes is say the heatbed issue stop print ,clooged ,and not print resume function if power fail this printer not reliable at all! waste you time and filament trow in the garbage! creek noises come from the belt or the motors also
FFS I'm trying to figure out where the grounding wire goes and your fingers are in the way. your like here look, all while moving the unit around too fast to pause to get a clear picture. You guys in all the videos have to have your fat fingers in the way😂
This video is from January but I am running into the same problem again this week with this printer. I have some bimetal necks coming in that I plan to test and see if it fixes anything.
@@OuterRimArmorer oh man ive got 2 kobra maxs 2s and 4 kobra maxs and the 2s seem to clog every 2nd roll of filment. the kobra 1s are way better designed. ive actively pulled the blue tubing out via the hotend cause it clogged and literally forced bits of all the way through. fully changed that hotend with a whole new one setup from ac and 1 week later same issue today ( i caught it b4 it got pushed into the hotend this time it seems and cleared a clogged peice that went all the way to just under the extruder).
im so close to returning both my 2s as they have to have a alot of issues ill get clean prints until about halfway up in height then it seems to go to shit no idea why. either it knocks off the piece every single time or u can see where the extruder is under preforming suddenly and struggling to get filament out (can see clear signs of underextruding at height) for mine anyway
@@OuterRimArmorerDid it work? I have the same problem and think about buying directly a bimetall one instead of replacing the tube with a Capricorn one…
This was an incredibly helpful video. Thank you. I can pull stuff apart easy enough but always concerned if I'm doing it right. It took me awhile to find it but it earned you a subscriber. Again thank you for this!
Glad it was helpful!
@@OuterRimArmorer I literally just finished putting it back together and it works great. My boden tube came out with no problem. my clog was at the tip of that metal tube the boden fits it. The only real "critic" i would give about the video, now that I did mine, is to make sure that the metal tube, that holds the boden tube, isn't threaded all the way down. I found that the tip wouldn't thread in all the way because it bottomed out on that metal tube. I didn't take pics of that part so had to go back into your video so see what the spacing was on that collar of the metal tube was from the hot end they both thread into. But again, overall it was immensely helpful.
you can disassemble the "head" without removing it. unscrew the two screws at the back, and carefully remove the plastic casing and you get access
thanks for the great video! just had my first clogged tip and had no idea what i was doing lol. heating the hot end up before screwing the new tip in help loads.
Happy it helped.
Thanks bud. Gave me the confidence to get through this myself. I appreciate it.
I simply swapped the heatbreak for a bi-metal heatbreak for CR6. This also lets me use standard volcano nozzles. I've got well over 10kg of filament through it and haven't had a single clog or blockage.
That’s my next upgrade for this printer. Two clogs with Bowden tubes already. What a stupid design.
@@OuterRimArmorer i pulled the upper tube and only have a 2" section feeding into the top of the extruder as a guide and i moved the filament holder to the top of the gantry... makes it soooo much easier to work with.
Doing this immediately now that mine clogged lol
Had the same trouble with the kobra max, I replaced the heat break throat with a Copper Titanium Bi-Metal Heat break Throat from amazon and no more clogs. The teflon tubing on the old throat goes all the way through and and fits tight against the hot nozzle and burns. the bi-metal throat that I replaced it with, the teflon tubing only goes 4.5mm into the throat where it's not as hot. You will have to change the length of the teflon tube to fit. If you don't change it, you will have to keep the hotend temps lower.
@Patrick-dr1xb can you post the link to the one you bought? There are a lot of them on amazon
prior to bi-metal being a readily available option I always just swapped the ptfe with either refrigeration tubing or DOM straight copper tubing, same OD and ID as the PTFE, never had to worry about melting, and 1 foot of the good stuff costs ~5 bucks
Thanks, the other day I came across this www.amazon.com/dp/B0BY2M3TQX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I have not had the time to put it in yet, but i think it will work.
I feel your pain when you sighed. Im having my first extruder clog in the Kobra 2 Max after just having gotten both my Bambu Lab P1S printers up and running again. If it's not one thing, it's another.
had a clog in my Kobra 2 Max also, could not easily get the clogged nozzle clean and out of frustration just held it with pliers over the flame of the gas stove in the kitchen and to my surprise the PLA oozed out. after that i could use the cleaning tool provided by Anycubic. Had some issues with the Kobra 2 Max but most of it was on me to be honest and after the firmware update at least the mid print stopping is over.
Unfortunately clogged nozzles are part of 3D printing. 😞 Glad the firmware update helped though. 😁👍
I 3D printed for 3 years and I can sympathize with you on the whole one printer down one working issue. That was always my situation and was so agonizing!!! It's why I got away from printing . I became very good at repairing them but also got tired of it. I was just about to buy this printer because of the great reviews then I saw this and brought me back to all those repairs I had to do. Now I'm leaning towards not returning to this . Plus I'm more busy now then I ever was before with work . Anyway great video .. I agree there should not be a Bowden tube there that was stupid or cheap of anycubic.
Great video! Forgive me for my bad English! I've a Kobra 2 and I bought Bowden PTFE tube Capricorn to replace it with the old one. I want to change also the Bowden tube in the heatbreak with Capricorn PTFE, but I'd like to know what is its exact lenght to be cropped. Could you kindly provide me with the length of that small piece of Bowden tube? Once I have inserted it, does it continue to move like on the video? How did you block its movement? Thanks!
i had the same bloody problem, looks like that blue tube melt a bit, and left space for filament to build up and mess it up.
similar solution, it come out a bit easier to be, but i did exact the same as you, change the nozzle and still cogging.
Hope this is just one time.. pretty new printer less than a month and having this issues
(Kobra 2 pro )
My OEM hot end was leaking too. Maybe why clogs start. Unit failed at 52 days, requested replacement.
hey i got my kobra 2 max(my first 3d printer) and i use the default setting from anycubic's slicer since I don't know a lot of stuff for now, i use esun pla+ do you have any settings that you recommend to me? Also, the default speed is probably at 300 without changing something, right?
I print on my AK2M at 250-300mms. My PLA temps are usually 220/60. Printing some calibration tests would probably be in your best interest though. That will really help you dial in your filament settings to your printer.
@@OuterRimArmorer thanks a lot, btw every other setting on default, right?
I just posted a shorts video that might help you better.
i received my kobra 2 max 4 days ago and i had to change the heat block along with the Bi-Metal heat break throat.
Thanks great video
do you have the same process with the elegoo, does it have a boden tube? ty
I believe that it does.
@@OuterRimArmorer so if the will not
extrude filament at all it has to be changed? would you do a stripe down on elegoo hotend video . thanks
@@OuterRimArmorer elegoo neptune 3 does the neptune pro 4 has a metal one as far as what the schematic shows. great times in this video anyway 👍🏻
everything cleared up after i changed the filament. i will let you know if it comes back.
thanks you helpt me to give me confidence
Happy to help. Fixing a 3D printer is mostly a lot of tinkering or has been for me for the past couple years. Something new breaks and I have to learn how to fix it. Then try to remember to share that knowledge. Lol 😂
So is Kobra 2 max not worth it? It’s on sale right now only for a few hours left, and I’ve been contemplating this whole weekend wether to buy it or not.
I’m coming from an Ender3 v2, so I don’t mind the tinkering
I personally still like it more than my Elegoo Neptune 4 Max.
I have the Kobra 2 plus and I have a clog as well. Clogs happen on Bambu and Prusa as well. I would purchase another Kobra even after this clog
Yep clogs are a part of 3D printing.
I see where there are some replacing the blue tube with bimetal or ceramic mods, is this something you have done since
I have in fact switched to a bimetal neck for this hotend. It seems to be working but those blue tubes can sometimes last a month or so. Lol
@@OuterRimArmorer Awesome thank you for responding
@@OuterRimArmorer Can you elaborate on this replacement? Thanks!
Will I lose my warranty after this repair?
That’s a good question. I wouldn’t think so because a clogged hotend is fairly common but if it did void the warranty than Anycubic products wouldn’t be worth buying. I need to look into this more to give you the correct information.
Glad im not the only one (despite what customer service says) There has got to be a way to prevent this. Then the sensor is all messed up and it gouges the bed 🤦♀️
Very good video =), is there any way to upgrade to an all metal hotend?
I believe so and I’m looking into that right now. 😉👍
Did you find a metal solution? I basically made this exact video last night but mine clogged again because I reused a semi damaged tube.@@OuterRimArmorer
I just did the same thing haha, first clog on my plus. Of course Anycubic was sold out of new nozzles. I purchased a 20 nozzle set of different sizes. Hopefully will work haha. Should know tomorrow
I purchased some off brand nozzles for both printers. They seem to work fine. Just read the reviews and make sure other people are having decent luck with them before you buy anything.
Change the heatbrake for a viper one. The fit perfectly and allow you tu use standard volcano nozzles.
I’ve had the little Bowden tubes degrade and wear out twice now on this printer. Save yourself a headache and buy a Capricorn Bowden tube to put in there. The spare ones that come with it are garbage
That was what I used this last time. I’ve melted the two that came with the printer. Hopefully the Capricorn one works better.
I use a Heat Gun to melt the PLA off the Nozzle.
Omgs , Prays this doesnt happen to my Plus !! but at least i know where to look to see how to fix it !! 😀
It just happened to mine after solid 8 prints. My prints did great though
looks like you still have a partial blockage....filament should exit straight down... even at the end it is exiting just slightly to the left...
i have the kobra 2 plus but sometimes is say the heatbed issue stop print ,clooged ,and not print resume function if power fail this printer not reliable at all! waste you time and filament trow in the garbage! creek noises come from the belt or the motors also
I use the clog rod and cleaning filament. Takes 5 minutes
That didn’t work for this clog. The cheap stock Bowden tube melted and clogged the neck. I love when just poking it fixes a clog.
change heatbreak to bi-metall or titan on V5AC, and forgot this as nightmare
I agree! I’m just looking for a good option to be able to do so.
Had my kobra 2 max a week and it clogged lol I'm ordering the cr 6 bi metal off amazon and gonna try that right away lol
Good video really...dizzy.
FFS I'm trying to figure out where the grounding wire goes and your fingers are in the way. your like here look, all while moving the unit around too fast to pause to get a clear picture.
You guys in all the videos have to have your fat fingers in the way😂
Sorry 😢
haha glad im not the only one finiding these kobra 2 maxs absolutely trash
This video is from January but I am running into the same problem again this week with this printer. I have some bimetal necks coming in that I plan to test and see if it fixes anything.
@@OuterRimArmorer oh man ive got 2 kobra maxs 2s and 4 kobra maxs and the 2s seem to clog every 2nd roll of filment. the kobra 1s are way better designed. ive actively pulled the blue tubing out via the hotend cause it clogged and literally forced bits of all the way through. fully changed that hotend with a whole new one setup from ac and 1 week later same issue today ( i caught it b4 it got pushed into the hotend this time it seems and cleared a clogged peice that went all the way to just under the extruder).
im so close to returning both my 2s as they have to have a alot of issues ill get clean prints until about halfway up in height then it seems to go to shit no idea why. either it knocks off the piece every single time or u can see where the extruder is under preforming suddenly and struggling to get filament out (can see clear signs of underextruding at height) for mine anyway
@@OuterRimArmorerDid it work? I have the same problem and think about buying directly a bimetall one instead of replacing the tube with a Capricorn one…