Can you (or someone else) tell me how you did it? Have the noctua buck converter with 4 pin input on the 24V, but the PSU is only with 2 pins.. Noctrua omnijoin adapter to use the plug from the stock fan?
I really like the the approach and execution. My only comment would be a suggestion to 3d print something to cover the voltage converter terminals. I know its on the bottom and would take a very weird and almost intention set of circumstances to short them or ahock yourself but its an easy fix.
Hi Mark Thanks for the information, did the change as you suggested and nice and quiet. The cooling fan is a whole other story , luckily the printer is in the garage.
Reset your printer to factory and the first thing you should do is align and center your module calibration first. Once you get it exactly in the middle. Save the settings. Then do "auto leveling". Then just print. No z-offset needed. A lot of people don't even do Module calibration and start using the printer and never get it to work. But if your bed is warped or way to damaged and not flat. THat can't be helped until you adjust physically what is need to fix your bed. But try the module calibration and then bed level frist.
I find it rather interesting how different people can be bothered to such drastically different levels by different noises. I've seen so many 3d printer videos where they complain about how loud the printer is, with my kobra 2 being no different, but these noises do not bother me in the least. I'm bothered more by the sound of the bearings or motors than I am the fans. That's not to say the fans are silent, quite the opposite in fact, but it just isn't bothersome for me. It's just background noise that I can tune out easily so the idea of replacing a perfectly functional fan just to try and make things a bit quieter is, in my mind, a ridiculous thing to do. Personally though I have found that proper ducting can make a bigger difference than an expensive fan. But I'm glad you found a solution that works for you.
as the old saying goes, to each their own 😊 I live and work in close proximity to the printers, one wasnt horrible but two were singing a loud song. Ducting could help if the noise was turbulence but this was definitely just a cheap server rack fan.
@@mark4jr You're absolutely correct and I hope I didn't come off like I was telling you that you did something wrong. I currently have 3 printers side by side, on the desk beside me, all printing away while I watch videos on RUclips. 😊 Fans aren't an issue but those motors....i swear i can hear every single microstep. lol
I see your point. IMO the fans are too loud, but I don't like this solution because, as you touched upon, ducting is an issue. On the original power supply, the vents have been blocked with a plastic sheet to force the air to be drawn from vents further away. This factory hack has been necessary because they have used an off-the-self power supply instead of a custom-designed power supply for this printer. However, the designer of the replacement cradle has ignored this design change and included vents in their design, even adding extra vents in some cases. I would suggest to anyone wanting to do this modification to edit the cradle design, removing ALL the vents before printing it - the base of the cradle should be one solid piece with just the hole for the fan.
One thing I would suggest is to check on the PSU fan what voltage it operates... all my psu fans are 12V even if the psu outputs 24V or 48V (ender, meanwell, ebike or prusa psus)... or you could check with a multimeter BUT BE VERY CAREFULL!!!
@@thespacecowboy420 I almost went that route, but my understanding is voltage dividers draw a more current wasting most of it on heat so for the 10$ a proper converter cost, I really liked the peace of mind.
@@mark4jr That is true but you are talking about the tiny amount one of the two resistors turns into heat, because it is just a 1W or so fan that is a tiny amount.
Would it not be easier to buy 24v fan and just replace it? You can get ones turned for silence, or even go 25mm thick which tend to have a less annoying tone so perceived volume is lower since you're printing a new shroud anyways.
It absolutely would be easier to use a 24V fan, I could not find one that would fit and guarantee silence. I dont believe just changing the shroud would make a noticeable difference in noise, the factory fan is LOUD
@@mark4jr The best thing is it doesn't need to fit as this mod requires more clearance anyway because the custom cover, the additional electronics and the feet. So you could use a much larger 120mm fan and just modify the cover of the PSU to have mounting holes for a fan of that size and then just mount it externally rather than inside the PSU. Although I've seen some 92mm 24v fans that should be closer to 40- 45 dB which should be a vast improvement over stock.
@mark4jr I only see DC 24V to 12V 5A step downs here in the UK on ebay instead of the DC 24V to 12V 10A you linked to :( - please advise... Is it because of our power difference?
Ok I looked it up, the 92mm Noctua draws .11A max so technically you could power 45 of them off of that converter. Just keep in mind any power that converter puts out is being drawn from the printer's power supply, so I would advise only powering the one needed
Can you confirm the CPU Fan connector? Looks like a JST-PH2.00mm. If it is, could save your self from cutting/splicing wires and just run a single solid wire. If I find out before you answer I'll try to remember to update.
unfortunately im not familiar enough with connector types to be able to tell, i think your gonna have to cut the end off the pc fan regardless, crimp connectors would be an option as well
the main board fan is pretty quiet on both the machines I have, i believe the same noctua fan would fit and could be tied into the same converter. its the Nozzle cooling fan making all the noise now for me but not sure anything can be done about that
I printed the "Anycubic Kobra 2 Series Slip-On Crocs" using 95A TPU (basically using the PLA settings, it was a little bit difficult removing them from the printer bed. Grabbed the STL from Printables www.printables.com/model/680432-bambu-lab-style-anti-vibration-feet-for-all-fdm-be/files
@@mark4jr One way to help get thick TPU parts off is to use the shape memory against itself, just get anything under an edge and over the course of a few minutes lever up the part and slide the shim under, it will tear itself free. I am printing the thingiverse feet and they seem to fit great. Same 95A TPU. I use Cura and not the AC slicer.
Just did mine cause stock fan was going out. I used the Noctura buck converter. All plugged up super easy! Thanks for the vid!
Can you (or someone else) tell me how you did it? Have the noctua buck converter with 4 pin input on the 24V, but the PSU is only with 2 pins.. Noctrua omnijoin adapter to use the plug from the stock fan?
I really like the the approach and execution. My only comment would be a suggestion to 3d print something to cover the voltage converter terminals. I know its on the bottom and would take a very weird and almost intention set of circumstances to short them or ahock yourself but its an easy fix.
@@codygoss7294 not a bad suggestion!
Hi Mark Thanks for the information, did the change as you suggested and nice and quiet. The cooling fan is a whole other story , luckily the printer is in the garage.
@@krmodels yeah the nozzle fan is definitely still loud
Thanks for the tip Mark, this is very usefull and I might consider doing this mod on my Kobra 3. Your videos are very helpful and clear !!!
If I can get mine to not print crappily I'll definitely do this - thanks!
@@Wolfman140 i made a video about bed leveling that got both my K2Ms printing real nice, highly recommend. Good luck!
Reset your printer to factory and the first thing you should do is align and center your module calibration first. Once you get it exactly in the middle. Save the settings. Then do "auto leveling". Then just print. No z-offset needed. A lot of people don't even do Module calibration and start using the printer and never get it to work. But if your bed is warped or way to damaged and not flat. THat can't be helped until you adjust physically what is need to fix your bed. But try the module calibration and then bed level frist.
I have that same Dewalt soldering station and love it. It does work really well. Great video overall. Kudos
just like the 3d printer its one of those tools I wish I bought sooner :)
I find it rather interesting how different people can be bothered to such drastically different levels by different noises. I've seen so many 3d printer videos where they complain about how loud the printer is, with my kobra 2 being no different, but these noises do not bother me in the least. I'm bothered more by the sound of the bearings or motors than I am the fans. That's not to say the fans are silent, quite the opposite in fact, but it just isn't bothersome for me. It's just background noise that I can tune out easily so the idea of replacing a perfectly functional fan just to try and make things a bit quieter is, in my mind, a ridiculous thing to do. Personally though I have found that proper ducting can make a bigger difference than an expensive fan.
But I'm glad you found a solution that works for you.
as the old saying goes, to each their own 😊 I live and work in close proximity to the printers, one wasnt horrible but two were singing a loud song. Ducting could help if the noise was turbulence but this was definitely just a cheap server rack fan.
@@mark4jr You're absolutely correct and I hope I didn't come off like I was telling you that you did something wrong. I currently have 3 printers side by side, on the desk beside me, all printing away while I watch videos on RUclips. 😊 Fans aren't an issue but those motors....i swear i can hear every single microstep. lol
I see your point. IMO the fans are too loud, but I don't like this solution because, as you touched upon, ducting is an issue. On the original power supply, the vents have been blocked with a plastic sheet to force the air to be drawn from vents further away. This factory hack has been necessary because they have used an off-the-self power supply instead of a custom-designed power supply for this printer. However, the designer of the replacement cradle has ignored this design change and included vents in their design, even adding extra vents in some cases. I would suggest to anyone wanting to do this modification to edit the cradle design, removing ALL the vents before printing it - the base of the cradle should be one solid piece with just the hole for the fan.
ho wow!, my neighbour love you hehehe the noise... wow!
Noctua do make 24v fans btw.
what, so in which case the converter isnt required? its a direct replacment to the MOBO or wherever the PSU fan connects?
i couldnt find a 92mm slim version in 24v, if you do find one that's the way to go for sure
nor could I, i looked and looked, only 120mm fans @@mark4jr
One thing I would suggest is to check on the PSU fan what voltage it operates... all my psu fans are 12V even if the psu outputs 24V or 48V (ender, meanwell, ebike or prusa psus)... or you could check with a multimeter BUT BE VERY CAREFULL!!!
oh for sure, for this mod it required stepping down 24VDC (from PSU) to 12VDC for the new PC fan.
@@mark4jr @alucard87 For that tiny low amp fan, this is the poster child use case for a voltage divider
@@thespacecowboy420 I almost went that route, but my understanding is voltage dividers draw a more current wasting most of it on heat so for the 10$ a proper converter cost, I really liked the peace of mind.
@@mark4jr That is true but you are talking about the tiny amount one of the two resistors turns into heat, because it is just a 1W or so fan that is a tiny amount.
Would it not be easier to buy 24v fan and just replace it?
You can get ones turned for silence, or even go 25mm thick which tend to have a less annoying tone so perceived volume is lower since you're printing a new shroud anyways.
It absolutely would be easier to use a 24V fan, I could not find one that would fit and guarantee silence. I dont believe just changing the shroud would make a noticeable difference in noise, the factory fan is LOUD
@@mark4jr The best thing is it doesn't need to fit as this mod requires more clearance anyway because the custom cover, the additional electronics and the feet.
So you could use a much larger 120mm fan and just modify the cover of the PSU to have mounting holes for a fan of that size and then just mount it externally rather than inside the PSU.
Although I've seen some 92mm 24v fans that should be closer to 40- 45 dB which should be a vast improvement over stock.
@mark4jr I only see DC 24V to 12V 5A step downs here in the UK on ebay instead of the DC 24V to 12V 10A you linked to :( - please advise... Is it because of our power difference?
12v at 5A could probably power 20 of those noctua fans if not more, full send!
Ok I looked it up, the 92mm Noctua draws .11A max so technically you could power 45 of them off of that converter. Just keep in mind any power that converter puts out is being drawn from the printer's power supply, so I would advise only powering the one needed
ive ordered a fan and converter, will be printing the shroud ina . few days and complete the work next week. thanks for your files/vids@@mark4jr
Can you confirm the CPU Fan connector? Looks like a JST-PH2.00mm. If it is, could save your self from cutting/splicing wires and just run a single solid wire. If I find out before you answer I'll try to remember to update.
unfortunately im not familiar enough with connector types to be able to tell, i think your gonna have to cut the end off the pc fan regardless, crimp connectors would be an option as well
@@mark4jr after pulling mine printer apart, it appears that this is an XHB2.54 2 pin.
I just hate cutting wires on good parts :D
Have you did this AFTER your warranty has expired ? Its loud but I dont wanna mess with warranty.
nah, but they also dont ship printers back for most warranty claims they will just send parts
now youll find that the mainboard fan is almost as loud lol. im going to replace that one as well.
the main board fan is pretty quiet on both the machines I have, i believe the same noctua fan would fit and could be tied into the same converter. its the Nozzle cooling fan making all the noise now for me but not sure anything can be done about that
Does anyone know the dimensions of the stock fan?
The stock fan is 60x60x15.8mm as measured by calipers
I see the feet on thingiverse, which ones did you print?
I printed the "Anycubic Kobra 2 Series Slip-On Crocs" using 95A TPU (basically using the PLA settings, it was a little bit difficult removing them from the printer bed. Grabbed the STL from Printables www.printables.com/model/680432-bambu-lab-style-anti-vibration-feet-for-all-fdm-be/files
@@mark4jr One way to help get thick TPU parts off is to use the shape memory against itself, just get anything under an edge and over the course of a few minutes lever up the part and slide the shim under, it will tear itself free. I am printing the thingiverse feet and they seem to fit great. Same 95A TPU. I use Cura and not the AC slicer.
@@thespacecowboy420 that tracks my experience as well, using a 3d printed scraper once I got an edge in it was easy-peasy from there