I just ended up returning my unit and having them ship me another one. One word of advice by the units off of Amazon you get better customer service. The moment that I left a bad review customer service showed up out of nowhere and gave me top level customer service
Had a similar issue with my Sovol SV07+ printer. It was feeding out of a dryer box causing extra tension on the filament. Would print fine on the overhead spool holder, but had issues when i tried running filament directly from the dryer. Going to try running a PTFE tube from the dryer to the print head and hopefully that'll fix the feed issue for me 😅 I'll report back (if I remember to lol) with an update after trying the fix
UPDATE: It worked. $0.50 of PTFE just fixed a problem I've been chasing for over 2 weeks. 3D printing is Hell, and possibly one of the most masochistic hobbies that doesn't involve direct physical torture. Happy printing! :) (send help)
On the K2 max you can't configure e-steps because KobraOS is locked out, you can only change the extrusion rate in Cura. They configured marlin in for relative extrusion instead of calculating the actual e-steps because they don't test their printers before they ship them. Point: Changing extrusion rate to 99% in cura HUGELY helped without under-extrusion.
Yeah I learned that investigating this issue. Fortunately I found it was just the extruder slipping and not an adjustment required to e-steps. One of these days I plan on tuning the slicer flow rate but for now its printing really well with really good quality on large prints. Thanks for the tip!
@@mark4jr Have you tried using Cura with it yet? I'd be glad to share my settings, if you put an email on your channel page, definitely curious what yours are or what you'd change
your videos are great- im in a similar boat, but i have another strange issue which is print quality gets a little rough in a predictable way i.e. when i print a timing pulley, the north east face gets a little messed up. im wondering if there is something about how the head is bending the tube that causes underextrusion only in certain ways. as for the e step calibration, is there a way to just insert custom g-code at the beginning? i know anycubic doesnt make the initial estep param known but maybe there is some way of discovering it.
I had a chunk of filament stuck in my print head, ever since clearing it its been pretty smooth sailing and gorgeous prints. Replacing the little piece of PTFE tubing inside of the hot-end with capricorn tubing I think was also pretty crucial in keeping the nozzle from clogging. Stick with it, had both my printers dialed in printing flawlessly for months now.
you have to start a print first then you should immediately find the option on the touch screen to adjust the z-offset. Whatever you set should be saved for the next print, through power cycles, etc.. but ive had the printer randomly reset the zoffset a few times - I think its either during firmware update sometimes or just a bug. Anyway I recommend keeping a log as you adjust it, helps learn, also helps keep the last known good setting. Id note the offset value then the first layer print quality
@@mark4jr I find it odd that there's no option to manually configure the z offset. I think I will use a log that's a good suggestion. Your suggestion to turn the screw on the print head has helped a lot. It is all these small tweaks that Anycubic needs to have testers work on although I have to say Anycubic has amazing customer support, unlike any other.
@@emperorkalel yeah IMO its dumb you cant just raise and lower the nozzle manually, would make it super easy to get the nozzle in the ballpark without even running a print. feel ya there
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I just ended up returning my unit and having them ship me another one. One word of advice by the units off of Amazon you get better customer service. The moment that I left a bad review customer service showed up out of nowhere and gave me top level customer service
Had a similar issue with my Sovol SV07+ printer.
It was feeding out of a dryer box causing extra tension on the filament. Would print fine on the overhead spool holder, but had issues when i tried running filament directly from the dryer.
Going to try running a PTFE tube from the dryer to the print head and hopefully that'll fix the feed issue for me 😅
I'll report back (if I remember to lol) with an update after trying the fix
UPDATE:
It worked.
$0.50 of PTFE just fixed a problem I've been chasing for over 2 weeks.
3D printing is Hell, and possibly one of the most masochistic hobbies that doesn't involve direct physical torture.
Happy printing! :) (send help)
On the K2 max you can't configure e-steps because KobraOS is locked out, you can only change the extrusion rate in Cura. They configured marlin in for relative extrusion instead of calculating the actual e-steps because they don't test their printers before they ship them. Point: Changing extrusion rate to 99% in cura HUGELY helped without under-extrusion.
Yeah I learned that investigating this issue. Fortunately I found it was just the extruder slipping and not an adjustment required to e-steps. One of these days I plan on tuning the slicer flow rate but for now its printing really well with really good quality on large prints. Thanks for the tip!
@@mark4jr Have you tried using Cura with it yet? I'd be glad to share my settings, if you put an email on your channel page, definitely curious what yours are or what you'd change
your videos are great- im in a similar boat, but i have another strange issue which is print quality gets a little rough in a predictable way i.e. when i print a timing pulley, the north east face gets a little messed up. im wondering if there is something about how the head is bending the tube that causes underextrusion only in certain ways. as for the e step calibration, is there a way to just insert custom g-code at the beginning? i know anycubic doesnt make the initial estep param known but maybe there is some way of discovering it.
I had a chunk of filament stuck in my print head, ever since clearing it its been pretty smooth sailing and gorgeous prints. Replacing the little piece of PTFE tubing inside of the hot-end with capricorn tubing I think was also pretty crucial in keeping the nozzle from clogging. Stick with it, had both my printers dialed in printing flawlessly for months now.
How do you z off set adjust on this printer?
you have to start a print first then you should immediately find the option on the touch screen to adjust the z-offset. Whatever you set should be saved for the next print, through power cycles, etc.. but ive had the printer randomly reset the zoffset a few times - I think its either during firmware update sometimes or just a bug. Anyway I recommend keeping a log as you adjust it, helps learn, also helps keep the last known good setting. Id note the offset value then the first layer print quality
@@mark4jr I find it odd that there's no option to manually configure the z offset. I think I will use a log that's a good suggestion. Your suggestion to turn the screw on the print head has helped a lot. It is all these small tweaks that Anycubic needs to have testers work on although I have to say Anycubic has amazing customer support, unlike any other.
@@emperorkalel yeah IMO its dumb you cant just raise and lower the nozzle manually, would make it super easy to get the nozzle in the ballpark without even running a print. feel ya there
@@mark4jr Thank you for the video - keep them coming. Subbed