Anycubic should be paying you for this video, good lord youre a Godsend!!!! Please dont ever stop making videos, you are singlehandedly saving my sanity
Sir, I would like to shake your hand. You just ended my hours long headache with a 15 minute video. I only had one spacer that was off, so I stuck two metal washers between it and the plate for shim, and I am getting better level results than I have in months. Thank you thank you thank you!!
Great Video Mark. The modification was simple and it really worked well. Now printing model silos in larger scales, and the machine is working very well.. Thanks again for the information.
Thanks for making this video. To help minimize the effects of an uneven bed, increasing the first layer z height can help. I have it set on 0.3mm, while my normal z height is 0.12.
Thank you so much for this, you've no idea how much I appreciate it! Was having all kinds of issues with my kobra 2 max and your guidance helped me a lot.
Great video. Thank you sooo much. I found the silicone spacers on Temu (Idea Former Hot Bed Leveling Column Silicone Solid Spacer). One set consists of 3 longer and one shorter spacer. So two sets of € 2,97 should do the trick. I also got myself a dial meter. Let's get the Kobra 2 Max level 😀 Woodworker tip. If you use a ruler to see if the bed is level, shine a ligt (torch) behind the ruler. This will make it really easy to see deviations.
Installed the spacer mod you outlined, and used a straightedge to "eyeball" level it. I will go back and use a dial indicator later this week, but already the change has netted good results. Thank you
If you move the bed all the way forward than move it back apporox 5inchs , fling each belt if you hear what sounds like a guitar string at a medium tone your belts are tight enough. if your belts are to loose they will slip and cause layer shifting as well. I have had the kobra max 2 for a couple months with 100hrs on it so far and no issues. i use to own the kobra 2 it also had layer shifting issues but it was the print head unit causing them as like you said the wheels would be too loose.
You can solve anycubic Autobed Leveling issue by taking advantage of the Auto Bed Leveling Mesh, Most people dont know that in order to have true auto leveling, the Z axis should be moving up and down as your first layer is printing across the bed. My Start Gcode I use to make sure the printer is actually using the Auto Leveling Mesh Data is the Following. You should need to do any bed leveling like this if the printer is mainly square as the Software should take care of the rest, but what you did will def help more. M420 V1 ; view the current mesh as a 5x5 matrix M140 S100 ; (or S60 for PLA) start heating up bed M104 S210 ; (or S175 for PLA) start heating up hot end G28 ; home all, required by G29 G29 ; Perform leveling using presets in firmware (i.e. 5x5, etc.) M500 ; save mesh to EEPROM M420 V1 ; verify that the mesh has changed, hopefully only slightly (cool printer, turn off, turn on) M420 V1 ; verify that the mesh is still the new one
Awesome Video, great thinking and great Explanations. Hope you will get more Clicks in the Future, since the potential is definitely there. For my Kobra 2 Max some Bed Screws have been extremly loose, overall I am still quite happy with this Printer: size, speed and Price considered. It would be nice if Anycubic would provide such amazing Tutorials, or at least torque specs for the bolts though.
If you increase the current on the stepper motor which I think on these boards you can probably do it manually and you can raise the voltage up That's what's solved all my layer shift issues on every printer I've ever had
With my old any cubic I just used nylon washers in the corners or spots to where it needed to be raised different sized ones to get it as flat as possible
@@mark4jr yeah it did and I got to a point where the first layer was exceptional, I just got a cobra Max for a really good deal 300 shift so I'm hoping I have good luck with it
oh man this video was so helpful especially the file for the clip! i found a max of 2mm variation! ordered a new print bed hoping its not warped and if it is i know how to fix it thanks to this video.
A new owner supplemental parts list for the spacers, printed parts, depth gage and clip on print, would make a great PDF or even an nice bundle pack. I'd probably spend $20 on a kit that had all the parts you used/listed in order to get the bed leveled out of the box. Super helpful video!
I put all the parts in the step by step videos description found here ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.htmlsi=tIOrVCzACzoEbjTB you can print the supplemental spacers or just find a spacer(s) that measure 3mm in thickness to add to the Silicon for the middle bed spacers
I also got this issue of shifted layers. According to my observations, these issues happen at quite big distance from build plate (around 20-30 cm), which means the weight of plastic is already sufficient. I reduced all accelerations to 5000 mm/s2, and till now I never got this issue again. Seems that in my case the motor skips the steps when the load of plastic is around 300 g or more, and inertia of build plate + printed model is too high for motor...
For the layer shifting...fought that for a LONG time. In my case the vref was WAY too high and motor getting too hot. Adjusted that and things got better but still happened occasionally. Player with acceleration and dropped it from 2000 to 900 and set jerk to 10. Have run over 2kg through it and haven't had so much as a single shift on my kobra 2 since. Considering how much more mass your max needs to move on the Y compared to my kobra 2 I have to wonder if too high acceleration might be causing you some shifting.
Can definitely confirm lowering acceleration does help. the thing is though I have two of these printers and one has never experienced layer shifts the other is prone.
If they allowed you to disable the mesh leveling you would honestly have a way better time. That is my issue right now, my bed is dead flat using your methods and the mesh digs into the bed in certain spots.
@@mark4jr I had some 20x20x10mm Aluminum Fin , just mounted as many as i could fit. 2 on back, 1 each end and 2 on the bottom.. My Kobra PLus dont get as hot but i added to it also..
bed leveling just ensure that the bed is parallel to the x axis. as he said you must ensure bed is leveled and everything is tight enough. Leveling the bed is the easier part. the problem is when your trying to level the bed and set the Z-offset at the same time. The printer assume the nozzle is just touching the bed. The Z-offset tells the printer how much the printer is not or is into the bed. So if your first layer is 0.2 mm and you are just perfectly touching (0.00) a leveled bed, the nozzle will go up 0.2 mm to print the first layer. if the nozzle is 0.2 mm away from the bed then Z-offset must be set to +0.2(if printer reads positive as going closer to bed) or -0.2(if printer reads negative as going closer to bed).The problem is just being 0.01 mm of the bed will significantly affect first layer quality. but humans cannot accurately adjust the bed by +-0.01 while at the same time keeping it perfectly leveled. adjusting it by hand is its like trying to win the lottery. it is better to just level the bed and adjust the z-offset value and let the printer make the adjustment until first layer is perfect. if your built in z-offset adjustments is only by +-0.1 then you must adjust the z offset by the +-0.01 in the slicer. note that this only works if you have no other issue with the printer like extrusion problems or bed sticking problems. if you have other issues they will introduce more variables and make finding the right z-offset almost impossible.
hi, thank you for these videos. I have a kobra 2 neo and trying to get it as tight as possible so i'm taking some of your learning and applying it. I was wondering if you think that your starting g code you shared in your hour long video would work for my machine?
also for me a hilarious side note is that watching your hands and hearing your voice speaking while using your hands is trip because we have the exact same hands lmao
@@yurif74 i slowed down acceleration on the Y axis and havent had an issue since. pretty confident its the stepper motor overheating and losing its hold. AC sent me a new motor but haven't installed it, one person mentioned the idea of adding heat sinks to the motor, bet that would fix it
@@mark4jr how did you decreased the acceleration on y axis only? I have big layer shifting even when the printer do resonance test (but only at the start, when the y moves fast at higher frequency, no shifting at all)
Unfortunately, in my experience, there is no simple trick to getting good prints. The flatness of the bed and first layer is pretty critical. I covered how I set up my second printer following the lessons learned from the first in this video : ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.htmlsi=FAZZjja05E9eZUt7
one way to do it, is get a full size bed layer print, start printing and adjust your z offset manually, if the filament is lifting all the time you can also use glue instead of relying on the bed itself. water based glue works best. so if your printing and you find your layer is breaking apart or not staying down that is cause of the z offset. if its coming off right away your print head may be to far away from the bed, if its grouping together and tearing its way to close. adjust the z offset by 1 only do not go crazy as you do not want to mark your bed or wreck the print head.
Hello, thank you very much for this video and your work on it. I use the same printer, what I saw on yours is the drag chain for the rear cable. Since there are matching end pieces on your drag chain, I wanted to ask if you would make the .stl file available to me. Many greetings from Germany.
just a word of caution, do not move the bed or head while the machine is switch on.without disabling the steppers 1st. it creates its own electricty and you can blow your board or display pannel.
I really like both of my K2Ms, It's awesome to be able to print large functional things. It definitely was not an unbox and print experience like you would get with a Bambu but Bambu does not make a large format printer (yet). Once the K2M is dialed in it prints very fast and reliably. I would look at it like buying an old used car, if you are somewhat mechanically inclined and don't mind getting your hands dirty it will likely prove to be a fantastic value. I made this video going over pretty much everything I had to do to get both printers running flawlessly ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.html
I have problem with bed level in kobra 2 pro but i have no idea how to calibrate it manually because it have only 4 screws without option to install distances
I would think you could probably still apply the silicon spacer mod, if the existing metal spacers are all the same size then you should be good to go. There is another video in the description of this one that is more of a how-to
facebook.com/groups/804152788055850 - Its the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max official Facebook group. Just uploaded a full step-by-step tutorial showing how I set up my second printer.
all of the links are in the description of this video, ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.htmlsi=GV28uV7HOIZshL_y , this ones more of a step by step tutorial as I set up a new K2M
The start/stop Gcode gives the printer instructions regarding prior to printing and when the print is complete. The firmware of the printer should load the bed level mesh regardless of the gcode, in my testing I do not believe the bed level mesh does anything with or without gcode instruction. The only way ive been able to get consistently good prints is with a manually flattened/leveled bed.
@@mark4jr Weird. What slicer are you using? Just got mine today and set up. Using anycubic slicer and everything seems to be working great although the auto offset applied by the printer was a tad on the aggressive side at -1.19 so I backed off that a tiny amount. It seems to be working flawlessly. Even in " sport" mode I'm getting great prints. Set up my first full helmet to print though so bit nervous about later shifts on that so set it to standard but it's still crazy faster compared to my ender 3 😂
its very hard to do this large bed perfect so many variable like like filament quality dry or not or slicing settings ,room temperature,heated bed temperature nozzle type ,bed leveling.... maybe easy to first lever height set to a bit more and width overlap 15-25% or the motors,frame equal ,not slip the belt
I'm in the same exact situation as you I have two of these printers and I'm having the same low spots high spots it's so frustrating HELP! Is there a file for that attachment that you printed out?
I put all the links in this more of a how-to video : ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.html I have both printers dialed in pretty good at this point, letting them completely cool down before each test print was pretty key I think so the first layer went down with a relatively consistent level of heat saturation, also I think making sure everyhing it tight but not crazy tight is pretty important. For that I home the machine so the stepper motors are engaged and give all the moving parts a good wiggle
@@mark4jr awe man you're awesome! Thank you so much for this video. I was about ready to return the printer and ask them to send me a new one but I would prefer to just get my prints a bit better with this technique. I just ordered the spacers they should be coming tomorrow and I will get the dial indicator from harbor freight. Can't wait to do this. Thank you again I really do appreciate it
That's very hepful video. I bought kobra2max a month ago but I have Z offset issue. Every after autoleveling, I have to calibrate Z offset during printing. (I could find z offset adjustment). Nozzel calibration sensor is at same height with plate but I couldnot find the problem. That's why I couldt printed anything yet. If you now how to tune Z offset not during printing, please share. Also I'm going try silicon spacer and try to calibrate with dial indicator.
I had the exact same symptom, always had to re-calibrate. I think it was to compensate for where on the print bed I was printing various parts at. I have a feeling this is going to solve your problem, I just uploaded a step-by-step guide I filmed while setting up my second Kobra 2.
Thanks for this Mark! super helpful! As always, it's easy for lazy people to comment and give advice, acting like an expert, on a post that someone else spent time creating to help people. So, I hope that kind of thing will not dissuade you from creating more videos to help people. I did review all the comments and looked around first before asking but did not see anything like a link to Amazon for the spacers. Might have Just missed it. Would you be kind enough to provide one when you have the time? P.S. I hope you get a free printer also! =)
Oh im no stranger to internet comments sections, :) I put all the links in the description of this video which is more of a how-to as I apply this method to a new printer. These are the spacers I used : www.amazon.com/dp/B09NNFQQ8T?psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=mobilea0a74f7-20&linkId=94699d13d39f71f22b0712ff2eeeb722&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl and this is the newer video ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.html
There is no way the software can compensate, where the sensor it reading and where the nozzle is located are two different heights, they should stuck with the leveling that they used with the kobra max. they should not be shipping this out with a warped heat bed, its a defective product and anycubic needs to fix it.
All of my testing was a while ago (when the video was posted) but at that time ABL made no difference whatsoever, Gcode, running manually, before, after, didnt do a thing. I suspect its bugged (or was, maybe they fixed it in firmware?) Either way both printers are still running flawlessly except a clogged nozzle from time to time
@@mark4jr Thanks. I actually find this type of bed easier to get flat, just because of the type of adjustments you made. Printing without ABL propagating throughout the entire print, as for absolutely all layers, just makes a ton of difference. Just for reference, Elegoo lacks the two center holes, thus, this type of adjustments becomes way less accurate. Also, my Prusa MKIII printers have flatter beds than most Voron printers. I simply do not get what the fuzz i all about.
High Mark thank you for the video. I'm guessing you haven't been printing for very long. You wasted a whole bunch of your time calibrating the bed when it was cold. Secondly it never hurts to calibrate with the build plate off. But more importantly to calibrate with the build plate on. It's critical for beds this size to be preheated for over 30 minutes before doing any calibration as the build plate needs to heat soak. This is why you are having print issues even though your bed you say is level. I've seen deflection at almost 0.2 or more. Which is a full layer height or more. Imo what you did wasn't wrong. You just missed the steps of heat soaking to get more accurate bed level. Sadly it seems these printers both the elegoo Neptune 4 Max and the Cobra 2 max have troubles maintaining their bed mesh. That means we'll have to manually see adjust for large prints every single time
You have a good point about preheating the bed before leveling. I would recommend doing that and have done that on one of my machines. When I get some time, ill update the video and add that. Cheers!
I had exactly the same problem, but I just sent an email to #anycubic, send the pictures with the gaps under the ruler, they send me a hotbed!!! Here is the reply(Hi there We send you a free new {Heat Bed} to solve the problem. Please fill in your information in the link below so we can send your package to you. Note: The phone number is required, and the address information needs to be specific to the house number. After filling in the address, please reply to me for confirmation.) just filled the information and they send me a brand new one. So if you are having to many problems.... Maybe.... It's not your problem!!!! Meanwhile while you are having issues of bad leveling, slow down the first layer and just go up and down the Z-offset as much as you need to try the best layer as possible. You do lose a lot of time, but after I started to to manual leveling I stoped having warped and pealing layers, and I was printing with a 60º temperature, was able to go down to 50º(saves up a lot of electricity)haven't been printing nor rafts or brims, straight to the bed... For the shift layers I only have problems when I forget at Anycubic slicer to zhop on every retration. Hope it helps
Hoooo... And they super quick to reply, and when o was doing test and did not reply back, I would get an email from them asking if the problem was solved and if I could give them a feedback!!! Awesome tech support!!!!!!
WARNING: DO NOT BUY THIS PRINTER (or any anycubic Kobra 2 printers, I've been having similar problems on Kobra 2 and Kobra Neo) I do not care if I come off biased or triggered, but these anycubic printers have took 5 years away from my life with problems. My office bought this piece of s***, a closed source firmware, with: NO OPTION to set e-steps, no extrusion/flow control whatsoever, disfunctional ABL (compensates incorrectly), no way to connect it to a PC, no manual bed leveling mesh or option to edit the automatic one, no way to tram your bed,it has fixed spacers, only way to change z-offset is during printing, incorrect automatic z-offset detection (varies by ~0.25mm on every auto level) VERY uneven bed, no way to calibrate stepper motors. I can't even remember all the other problems. I added springs and knobs to manually level the bed, and it helped A LOT, but it still wasn't enough because there are 8 screws and the bed surface is massive, so even if I manually tram the bed with them, there are still hills and valleys when printing something bigger on it. We bought it for 600$, I'd say it's not worth the trouble even if they gave me 300$ back. Piece of s***.
I definitely understand your frustration, and you have valid points. Unfortunately, as of today, there are no better options available for a large format 3d printer even close to the price point of the K2M that do not have the same exact issues/concerns. What I can say is I have two of these machines that have been printing flawlessly for almost a year now since executing the steps I outlined in this video. Should you need to modify a brand-new machine to get it to work? No, absolutely not. That being said, it's very gratifying being able to design and print BIG without breaking the bank
@@mark4jr Yeah, the price vs volume does make it enticing, but I've been printing for a long time, and I've been searching for solutions online for a month, I tried all sorts of fixes with no improvements. Thanks for the video, and sorry for the negative comment, I just wanna warn people. I do not mind tinkering and calibrating a 3d printer, but if anycubic is gonna deliver a piece of s*** like this with closed source firmware, than at least give me options in it OR open source it, and people will fix it for you. No matter price vs volume, if you can't get a decent first layer, everything is useless. How do I print something big on it, if the first layer looks like a topographical map of the Balkans?
I wish you'd made this comment a month or two ago and I'd seen it. I got a Kobra 2 Pro as my first 3D printer and I can confirm everything you've said. The auto-Z offset is one of the most ridiculous things. Leveling it is a joke. Every time I do the Z offset is some random number that's nowhere close to what it actually is (e.g. +0.21mm when it's actually -0.45mm, at that moment anyway.) Half the print troubleshooting guides I look up suggest doing things you literally can't with this line (esteps, steppers, etc.) and with the firmware being closed (in violation of Klipper's GPL) and locked down you have no way around it. It's also ridiculous that there's zero computer connectivity and it's dumb AF that I have to upload the print to A CLOUD SERVER, then use the mobile app to initiate the print rather than just directly sending the job from my computer. If I knew then what I knew now I'd have skipped Anycubic entirely.
Ill echo I wish it printed out of the box. Definitely would not recommend unless you like to tinker AND are stubborn about large printing capability. Trust me when I say it's possible to get them printing good, have two that have been printing flawlessly since getting them dialed in for over a year now, lots of print time. Big learning curve getting them dialed in
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Anycubic should be paying you for this video, good lord youre a Godsend!!!! Please dont ever stop making videos, you are singlehandedly saving my sanity
sorta hoping one day ill earn a free printer 😂 thanks for the positive feedback!
The most informative video I have found yet on solving my bed leveling issues. If only Anycubic themselves had some tutorials as useful as this.
Sir, I would like to shake your hand. You just ended my hours long headache with a 15 minute video. I only had one spacer that was off, so I stuck two metal washers between it and the plate for shim, and I am getting better level results than I have in months. Thank you thank you thank you!!
Great Video Mark. The modification was simple and it really worked well. Now printing model silos in larger scales, and the machine is working very well.. Thanks again for the information.
Thanks for making this video. To help minimize the effects of an uneven bed, increasing the first layer z height can help. I have it set on 0.3mm, while my normal z height is 0.12.
Thank you so much for this, you've no idea how much I appreciate it! Was having all kinds of issues with my kobra 2 max and your guidance helped me a lot.
Great video. Thank you sooo much. I found the silicone spacers on Temu (Idea Former Hot Bed Leveling Column Silicone Solid Spacer). One set consists of 3 longer and one shorter spacer. So two sets of € 2,97 should do the trick. I also got myself a dial meter. Let's get the Kobra 2 Max level 😀 Woodworker tip. If you use a ruler to see if the bed is level, shine a ligt (torch) behind the ruler. This will make it really easy to see deviations.
@@windmill10 great tip with the light I can see how that would help a lot!
Installed the spacer mod you outlined, and used a straightedge to "eyeball" level it. I will go back and use a dial indicator later this week, but already the change has netted good results. Thank you
If you move the bed all the way forward than move it back apporox 5inchs , fling each belt if you hear what sounds like a guitar string at a medium tone your belts are tight enough. if your belts are to loose they will slip and cause layer shifting as well. I have had the kobra max 2 for a couple months with 100hrs on it so far and no issues. i use to own the kobra 2 it also had layer shifting issues but it was the print head unit causing them as like you said the wheels would be too loose.
You can solve anycubic Autobed Leveling issue by taking advantage of the Auto Bed Leveling Mesh, Most people dont know that in order to have true auto leveling, the Z axis should be moving up and down as your first layer is printing across the bed. My Start Gcode I use to make sure the printer is actually using the Auto Leveling Mesh Data is the Following. You should need to do any bed leveling like this if the printer is mainly square as the Software should take care of the rest, but what you did will def help more.
M420 V1 ; view the current mesh as a 5x5 matrix
M140 S100 ; (or S60 for PLA) start heating up bed
M104 S210 ; (or S175 for PLA) start heating up hot end
G28 ; home all, required by G29
G29 ; Perform leveling using presets in firmware (i.e. 5x5, etc.)
M500 ; save mesh to EEPROM
M420 V1 ; verify that the mesh has changed, hopefully only slightly
(cool printer, turn off, turn on)
M420 V1 ; verify that the mesh is still the new one
HOLA, por favor haga un video . gracias.
Awesome Video, great thinking and great Explanations. Hope you will get more Clicks in the Future, since the potential is definitely there.
For my Kobra 2 Max some Bed Screws have been extremly loose, overall I am still quite happy with this Printer: size, speed and Price considered.
It would be nice if Anycubic would provide such amazing Tutorials, or at least torque specs for the bolts though.
thanks for the kind words 🤘
that's incredibly clever! my kobra max 2 arrives next week, definitely saving your tips. Thanks
Thanks, good luck with it! Definitely appreciate the smart person(s) who thought of the ideas
Thanks for sharing stuff on K2Max. You probably have part wobble and not y-axis shift. I see it when I print tall vases
thx! that makes a lot of sense
If you increase the current on the stepper motor which I think on these boards you can probably do it manually and you can raise the voltage up That's what's solved all my layer shift issues on every printer I've ever had
havent heard of a way to up the amperage on AC printers but that would make sense, more power.
You're a life-saver. Great info, super well explained. I'm sure this video will save a lot of headaches!!
indicator mount is genius!!
The new Kobra 3 needs this.
With my old any cubic I just used nylon washers in the corners or spots to where it needed to be raised different sized ones to get it as flat as possible
I bet that worked well, people seem to be successful with foil tape too. I liked that silicon spacers would let me make adjustments in both directions
@@mark4jr yeah it did and I got to a point where the first layer was exceptional, I just got a cobra Max for a really good deal 300 shift so I'm hoping I have good luck with it
oh man this video was so helpful especially the file for the clip! i found a max of 2mm variation! ordered a new print bed hoping its not warped and if it is i know how to fix it thanks to this video.
Thank you, that video and Tipps from your side helps me a lot. I have the same issues like you with this printer.
check your belt tensions on the bed, make sure they're equal, i was playing with them and found this to be an issue i had
A new owner supplemental parts list for the spacers, printed parts, depth gage and clip on print, would make a great PDF or even an nice bundle pack. I'd probably spend $20 on a kit that had all the parts you used/listed in order to get the bed leveled out of the box. Super helpful video!
I put all the parts in the step by step videos description found here ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.htmlsi=tIOrVCzACzoEbjTB
you can print the supplemental spacers or just find a spacer(s) that measure 3mm in thickness to add to the Silicon for the middle bed spacers
I also got this issue of shifted layers. According to my observations, these issues happen at quite big distance from build plate (around 20-30 cm), which means the weight of plastic is already sufficient. I reduced all accelerations to 5000 mm/s2, and till now I never got this issue again. Seems that in my case the motor skips the steps when the load of plastic is around 300 g or more, and inertia of build plate + printed model is too high for motor...
Товарищ! Спасибо тебе огромнейшее!!! ❤
Can you provide the STL for the dial indicator?
For the layer shifting...fought that for a LONG time. In my case the vref was WAY too high and motor getting too hot. Adjusted that and things got better but still happened occasionally. Player with acceleration and dropped it from 2000 to 900 and set jerk to 10. Have run over 2kg through it and haven't had so much as a single shift on my kobra 2 since. Considering how much more mass your max needs to move on the Y compared to my kobra 2 I have to wonder if too high acceleration might be causing you some shifting.
Can definitely confirm lowering acceleration does help. the thing is though I have two of these printers and one has never experienced layer shifts the other is prone.
@@mark4jr how hot does the motor get when you're printing? if it's too hot to hold that's prob the issue
If they allowed you to disable the mesh leveling you would honestly have a way better time. That is my issue right now, my bed is dead flat using your methods and the mesh digs into the bed in certain spots.
Thank you :) Incredibly helpful.
could you share your slicer settings for that printer? I'm having lots of issues with setting it up for about 2 months rn especially with big prints
another hour or two before the HD version is available but here you go : ruclips.net/video/a-gk6cxONBs/видео.html
i had, once a Y shift, not sure if what i did did anything but i havent had it again .. I added heat sinks to my motors
@@jeep-australia that might be a genius idea, lot of people speculate it happens due to the motor overheating
@@jeep-australia what heat sinks did you use?
@@mark4jr I had some 20x20x10mm Aluminum Fin , just mounted as many as i could fit. 2 on back, 1 each end and 2 on the bottom.. My Kobra PLus dont get as hot but i added to it also..
Hi can you list the prints for the test prints in the description?
@@ForwardEngineering they are in the description of this how-to guide video ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.htmlsi=puWC7JAmn3DUmpvM
bed leveling just ensure that the bed is parallel to the x axis. as he said you must ensure bed is leveled and everything is tight enough. Leveling the bed is the easier part. the problem is when your trying to level the bed and set the Z-offset at the same time. The printer assume the nozzle is just touching the bed. The Z-offset tells the printer how much the printer is not or is into the bed. So if your first layer is 0.2 mm and you are just perfectly touching (0.00) a leveled bed, the nozzle will go up 0.2 mm to print the first layer. if the nozzle is 0.2 mm away from the bed then Z-offset must be set to +0.2(if printer reads positive as going closer to bed) or -0.2(if printer reads negative as going closer to bed).The problem is just being 0.01 mm of the bed will significantly affect first layer quality. but humans cannot accurately adjust the bed by +-0.01 while at the same time keeping it perfectly leveled. adjusting it by hand is its like trying to win the lottery. it is better to just level the bed and adjust the z-offset value and let the printer make the adjustment until first layer is perfect. if your built in z-offset adjustments is only by +-0.1 then you must adjust the z offset by the +-0.01 in the slicer.
note that this only works if you have no other issue with the printer like extrusion problems or bed sticking problems. if you have other issues they will introduce more variables and make finding the right z-offset almost impossible.
hi, thank you for these videos. I have a kobra 2 neo and trying to get it as tight as possible so i'm taking some of your learning and applying it.
I was wondering if you think that your starting g code you shared in your hour long video would work for my machine?
also for me a hilarious side note is that watching your hands and hearing your voice speaking while using your hands is trip because we have the exact same hands lmao
Where did you get the wire guide for the hot bed wiring. I need it.
@@devangpatel5285 www.printables.com/model/688059-anycubic-kobra-2-max-cable-drag-chain
Hi, after 6 months have you found what's the problem for the layer shifting? (belt, pulley or motor) thanks
@@yurif74 i slowed down acceleration on the Y axis and havent had an issue since. pretty confident its the stepper motor overheating and losing its hold. AC sent me a new motor but haven't installed it, one person mentioned the idea of adding heat sinks to the motor, bet that would fix it
@@mark4jr how did you decreased the acceleration on y axis only? I have big layer shifting even when the printer do resonance test (but only at the start, when the y moves fast at higher frequency, no shifting at all)
How do I print big objects. The first layer is not rlly that good for me the auto levelint set 2.32 for me
Unfortunately, in my experience, there is no simple trick to getting good prints. The flatness of the bed and first layer is pretty critical. I covered how I set up my second printer following the lessons learned from the first in this video : ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.htmlsi=FAZZjja05E9eZUt7
one way to do it, is get a full size bed layer print, start printing and adjust your z offset manually, if the filament is lifting all the time you can also use glue instead of relying on the bed itself. water based glue works best. so if your printing and you find your layer is breaking apart or not staying down that is cause of the z offset. if its coming off right away your print head may be to far away from the bed, if its grouping together and tearing its way to close. adjust the z offset by 1 only do not go crazy as you do not want to mark your bed or wreck the print head.
@@mark4jr i tried ur level set and it worked , thank you
@@kewtd72 it worked for me after i set the z offset to the one he set in the video and ithe first layer came good
Hello, thank you very much for this video and your work on it. I use the same printer, what I saw on yours is the drag chain for the rear cable. Since there are matching end pieces on your drag chain, I wanted to ask if you would make the .stl file available to me. Many greetings from Germany.
Did you make the dial caliber attachment?
just a word of caution, do not move the bed or head while the machine is switch on.without disabling the steppers 1st. it creates its own electricty and you can blow your board or display pannel.
Can still happen even if its off if you move them too quickly.
Hey, do you have the file for the dial gauge?
there is a link in the video description that goes to more of a how-to, all the links are in the how-to videos description
I need a large space for a printing bed. Is this printer worth the money.. or is it a waste of money and time?
I really like both of my K2Ms, It's awesome to be able to print large functional things. It definitely was not an unbox and print experience like you would get with a Bambu but Bambu does not make a large format printer (yet). Once the K2M is dialed in it prints very fast and reliably. I would look at it like buying an old used car, if you are somewhat mechanically inclined and don't mind getting your hands dirty it will likely prove to be a fantastic value. I made this video going over pretty much everything I had to do to get both printers running flawlessly ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.html
It can be the pei sheet that's uneven. I bought a flat carbon patterned pei sheet, and I've never looked back.
I noticed the cable for bed heat out the back you had a blue 3d printed cable stabilizer. Where did you get it? I would love to print 1 for myself.
Found it on Printables, enjoy! www.printables.com/model/688059-anycubic-kobra-2-max-cable-drag-chain
Awesome, thank you so much!
I have problem with bed level in kobra 2 pro but i have no idea how to calibrate it manually because it have only 4 screws without option to install distances
I would think you could probably still apply the silicon spacer mod, if the existing metal spacers are all the same size then you should be good to go. There is another video in the description of this one that is more of a how-to
Seriously, you are a godsend! I have been struggling with this printer to be consistent. You mentioned a FB group, what is the name of the group?
facebook.com/groups/804152788055850 - Its the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max official Facebook group. Just uploaded a full step-by-step tutorial showing how I set up my second printer.
@@mark4jr Thank you very much!
were do i get the file to print that dial indicator bracket
its in the description of this video which is more of a step-by-step how-to ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.html
Hello..Great job!! I have a question, could you please share the stl file of the sensor holder?
all of the links are in the description of this video, ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.htmlsi=GV28uV7HOIZshL_y , this ones more of a step by step tutorial as I set up a new K2M
Just a question in the slicer is thete gcode to use the bed level mesh?
If not can get it to level for each print with g29 after g28 code.
The start/stop Gcode gives the printer instructions regarding prior to printing and when the print is complete. The firmware of the printer should load the bed level mesh regardless of the gcode, in my testing I do not believe the bed level mesh does anything with or without gcode instruction. The only way ive been able to get consistently good prints is with a manually flattened/leveled bed.
@@mark4jr Weird. What slicer are you using?
Just got mine today and set up. Using anycubic slicer and everything seems to be working great although the auto offset applied by the printer was a tad on the aggressive side at -1.19 so I backed off that a tiny amount. It seems to be working flawlessly. Even in " sport" mode I'm getting great prints.
Set up my first full helmet to print though so bit nervous about later shifts on that so set it to standard but it's still crazy faster compared to my ender 3 😂
Can you share the dial indicator step file so we don’t have to design from scratch? Tia
Hey there, all the links are in this videos' description ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.html
its very hard to do this large bed perfect so many variable like like filament quality dry or not or slicing settings ,room temperature,heated bed temperature nozzle type ,bed leveling.... maybe easy to first lever height set to a bit more and width overlap 15-25% or the motors,frame equal ,not slip the belt
Any chance you could link the dial indicator mount file? It looks just like my Harbor Freight dial, and it would save me a ton of time.
the links are in the description of this video which is more of a how-to ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.html
@@mark4jr Thanks very much!
I'm in the same exact situation as you I have two of these printers and I'm having the same low spots high spots it's so frustrating HELP!
Is there a file for that attachment that you printed out?
I put all the links in this more of a how-to video : ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.html I have both printers dialed in pretty good at this point, letting them completely cool down before each test print was pretty key I think so the first layer went down with a relatively consistent level of heat saturation, also I think making sure everyhing it tight but not crazy tight is pretty important. For that I home the machine so the stepper motors are engaged and give all the moving parts a good wiggle
@@mark4jr awe man you're awesome! Thank you so much for this video. I was about ready to return the printer and ask them to send me a new one but I would prefer to just get my prints a bit better with this technique. I just ordered the spacers they should be coming tomorrow and I will get the dial indicator from harbor freight.
Can't wait to do this.
Thank you again I really do appreciate it
I just picked up the dial indicator from harbor freight and I received the silicone spacers can't wait to try to adjust this
Which bed leveling stl did you use?
www.printables.com/model/671915-anycubic-kobra-2-max-bed-level-first-layer-calibra
Mine prints offset, it kicks it and nothing is alined.
Great video!
hi, can you send me the file for the dial gauge? :-)
the link in the description of this video goes to more of a how-to guide with all of the links
That's very hepful video. I bought kobra2max a month ago but I have Z offset issue. Every after autoleveling, I have to calibrate Z offset during printing. (I could find z offset adjustment). Nozzel calibration sensor is at same height with plate but I couldnot find the problem. That's why I couldt printed anything yet. If you now how to tune Z offset not during printing, please share. Also I'm going try silicon spacer and try to calibrate with dial indicator.
I had the exact same symptom, always had to re-calibrate. I think it was to compensate for where on the print bed I was printing various parts at. I have a feeling this is going to solve your problem, I just uploaded a step-by-step guide I filmed while setting up my second Kobra 2.
How you leveling z bulk?
what do you mean?
you are genius bro
👍
my bed was shifting i just losend the skrew on the motor dats all black not silver one
my bed got easyer to move to
Thanks for this Mark! super helpful! As always, it's easy for lazy people to comment and give advice, acting like an expert, on a post that someone else spent time creating to help people. So, I hope that kind of thing will not dissuade you from creating more videos to help people. I did review all the comments and looked around first before asking but did not see anything like a link to Amazon for the spacers. Might have Just missed it. Would you be kind enough to provide one when you have the time? P.S. I hope you get a free printer also! =)
Oh im no stranger to internet comments sections, :)
I put all the links in the description of this video which is more of a how-to as I apply this method to a new printer. These are the spacers I used :
www.amazon.com/dp/B09NNFQQ8T?psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=mobilea0a74f7-20&linkId=94699d13d39f71f22b0712ff2eeeb722&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
and this is the newer video
ruclips.net/video/eV9AGm6lLHg/видео.html
@@mark4jr Thanks!
There is no way the software can compensate, where the sensor it reading and where the nozzle is located are two different heights, they should stuck with the leveling that they used with the kobra max. they should not be shipping this out with a warped heat bed, its a defective product and anycubic needs to fix it.
I hope you disable ABL when doing this, if not this video is just a mess. Just reset ABL mesh last thing before the print starts, in g-code.
All of my testing was a while ago (when the video was posted) but at that time ABL made no difference whatsoever, Gcode, running manually, before, after, didnt do a thing. I suspect its bugged (or was, maybe they fixed it in firmware?) Either way both printers are still running flawlessly except a clogged nozzle from time to time
@@mark4jr Thanks. I actually find this type of bed easier to get flat, just because of the type of adjustments you made. Printing without ABL propagating throughout the entire print, as for absolutely all layers, just makes a ton of difference. Just for reference, Elegoo lacks the two center holes, thus, this type of adjustments becomes way less accurate.
Also, my Prusa MKIII printers have flatter beds than most Voron printers. I simply do not get what the fuzz i all about.
High Mark thank you for the video.
I'm guessing you haven't been printing for very long.
You wasted a whole bunch of your time calibrating the bed when it was cold.
Secondly it never hurts to calibrate with the build plate off. But more importantly to calibrate with the build plate on.
It's critical for beds this size to be preheated for over 30 minutes before doing any calibration as the build plate needs to heat soak.
This is why you are having print issues even though your bed you say is level. I've seen deflection at almost 0.2 or more. Which is a full layer height or more.
Imo what you did wasn't wrong. You just missed the steps of heat soaking to get more accurate bed level.
Sadly it seems these printers both the elegoo Neptune 4 Max and the Cobra 2 max have troubles maintaining their bed mesh.
That means we'll have to manually see adjust for large prints every single time
You have a good point about preheating the bed before leveling. I would recommend doing that and have done that on one of my machines. When I get some time, ill update the video and add that. Cheers!
You fokin demigod ❤️🥵
I had exactly the same problem, but I just sent an email to #anycubic, send the pictures with the gaps under the ruler, they send me a hotbed!!! Here is the reply(Hi there
We send you a free new {Heat Bed} to solve the problem.
Please fill in your information in the link below so we can send your package to you.
Note: The phone number is required, and the address information needs to be specific to the house number. After filling in the address, please reply to me for confirmation.) just filled the information and they send me a brand new one. So if you are having to many problems.... Maybe.... It's not your problem!!!! Meanwhile while you are having issues of bad leveling, slow down the first layer and just go up and down the Z-offset as much as you need to try the best layer as possible. You do lose a lot of time, but after I started to to manual leveling I stoped having warped and pealing layers, and I was printing with a 60º temperature, was able to go down to 50º(saves up a lot of electricity)haven't been printing nor rafts or brims, straight to the bed... For the shift layers I only have problems when I forget at Anycubic slicer to zhop on every retration. Hope it helps
Hoooo... And they super quick to reply, and when o was doing test and did not reply back, I would get an email from them asking if the problem was solved and if I could give them a feedback!!! Awesome tech support!!!!!!
Nice toes lol
WARNING: DO NOT BUY THIS PRINTER (or any anycubic Kobra 2 printers, I've been having similar problems on Kobra 2 and Kobra Neo)
I do not care if I come off biased or triggered, but these anycubic printers have took 5 years away from my life with problems.
My office bought this piece of s***, a closed source firmware, with:
NO OPTION to set e-steps,
no extrusion/flow control whatsoever,
disfunctional ABL (compensates incorrectly),
no way to connect it to a PC,
no manual bed leveling mesh or option to edit the automatic one,
no way to tram your bed,it has fixed spacers,
only way to change z-offset is during printing,
incorrect automatic z-offset detection (varies by ~0.25mm on every auto level)
VERY uneven bed,
no way to calibrate stepper motors.
I can't even remember all the other problems.
I added springs and knobs to manually level the bed, and it helped A LOT, but it still wasn't enough because there are 8 screws and the bed surface is massive, so even if I manually tram the bed with them, there are still hills and valleys when printing something bigger on it. We bought it for 600$, I'd say it's not worth the trouble even if they gave me 300$ back.
Piece of s***.
I definitely understand your frustration, and you have valid points. Unfortunately, as of today, there are no better options available for a large format 3d printer even close to the price point of the K2M that do not have the same exact issues/concerns. What I can say is I have two of these machines that have been printing flawlessly for almost a year now since executing the steps I outlined in this video. Should you need to modify a brand-new machine to get it to work? No, absolutely not. That being said, it's very gratifying being able to design and print BIG without breaking the bank
@@mark4jr Yeah, the price vs volume does make it enticing, but I've been printing for a long time, and I've been searching for solutions online for a month, I tried all sorts of fixes with no improvements. Thanks for the video, and sorry for the negative comment, I just wanna warn people. I do not mind tinkering and calibrating a 3d printer, but if anycubic is gonna deliver a piece of s*** like this with closed source firmware, than at least give me options in it OR open source it, and people will fix it for you. No matter price vs volume, if you can't get a decent first layer, everything is useless. How do I print something big on it, if the first layer looks like a topographical map of the Balkans?
@@Stef-an hey no worries at all! I keep hearing rumors Bambu is launching a large format soon 🤞
@@mark4jr Nice, let's hope it's not gonna be overpriced :)
I wish you'd made this comment a month or two ago and I'd seen it. I got a Kobra 2 Pro as my first 3D printer and I can confirm everything you've said. The auto-Z offset is one of the most ridiculous things. Leveling it is a joke. Every time I do the Z offset is some random number that's nowhere close to what it actually is (e.g. +0.21mm when it's actually -0.45mm, at that moment anyway.) Half the print troubleshooting guides I look up suggest doing things you literally can't with this line (esteps, steppers, etc.) and with the firmware being closed (in violation of Klipper's GPL) and locked down you have no way around it. It's also ridiculous that there's zero computer connectivity and it's dumb AF that I have to upload the print to A CLOUD SERVER, then use the mobile app to initiate the print rather than just directly sending the job from my computer. If I knew then what I knew now I'd have skipped Anycubic entirely.
I hate rollers. They dont belong to 3d printers :D
I get this printer in the morning at 7.30 i send it back on 5.pm. this is the biggest shi* of 3D printers on the market!
Ill echo I wish it printed out of the box. Definitely would not recommend unless you like to tinker AND are stubborn about large printing capability. Trust me when I say it's possible to get them printing good, have two that have been printing flawlessly since getting them dialed in for over a year now, lots of print time. Big learning curve getting them dialed in