Perfect Z Offset On Your 3D Printer - How to get it right!
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- So you know you need to tune your Z offset for great first layers but how do you know when it's right?
In this video I'll quickly show you what your looking for when trying to dial in your Z offset with examples of what you might be seeing on your 3d printer so you'll know what you need to do to improve things.
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Man, I literally gave up a couple of days ago trying to print PETG because I didn't have enough time to calibrate my z-offset properly and now you post this video!! I love you!!
I'm right here with you brotha, same
this is probably the fifth video of you i stumble upon which solves my problems. youre doing really great work here
Thanks!
The visual references are great - thanks. Too many videos assume people know stuff they don't know which is why they are seeking help in the first place.
Thank you so much for this video! You saved my printer! I'm new to this and have had my Creality Ender 3 V3 SE for about two weeks. Out of the box it was working fine I thought but over the period of a week the more complicated prints I tried the worse things got. Trying different filaments just made it worse. I tried replacing my hotend, my bed, upgrading to a bi-metal heatbreak, replacing my PTFE tube with a capricorn tube, etc. Nothing worked until I saw this video. I was using the "auto" Z Offset feature and having terrible results. I was about to buy a different printer. 15 minutes after watching your video and adjusting my Z-Offset with your instructions using a 60mm square and I'm doing the best prints I've seen out of my device. You've gained a permanent subscriber!
He saved me so much time and anguish when I put a sonic pad on my ender 3 v2. Clear and concise explinations and why you are doing what you are doing.
Silver lining is all of those upgrades are decent upgrades, and now you have a spare hot end for when ultimately the one you're using becomes no longer usable.
@@adamarzo559 I have since upgraded to the newer ceramic quick swap nozzle from Creality so I now have two spares lol. Still struggling to get it tuned in but it’s getting better.
I know your comment is okd but I was wondering if you can possibly specify wther you increased or decreased the distance of the nozzle drom the bed.(I have the same printer and I am facing the same problem.)
@@OnyxTheThird Not sure I understand your question, but almost always after running Auto-Z-Offset I have to lower the nozzle closer to the bed. I use that tutorial I linked until I get the perfect first layer. Usually that's lowering it a bit more.
The hard part for me hasn’t been calibrating z-offset, but fine tuning the settings for first layer such as nozzle temp, bed temp, initial layer width, initial layer extrusion rate, speed, etc.
This is such a thorough video on this subject and you brought up questions that I didn't even consider. I learned a lot. Thanks so much!
Excellent explanation! I am only a week in to the hobby and this video helped me a lot.
There are so many videos about bed adhesion I was lost. The Z axis adjustment is probably the last issue I had.
Visually showing the failure is the exact thing that is needed to help diagnose problems for viewers
How often do you need to set this? Whenever you change filament styles? Like from pla to asa?
I'm new to fdm printing (couple of weeks) and just switched from PLA to my first attempt at PETG and it certainly humbled me. This short informational video got me thinking and recalibrating some things and I'm currently printing a z offset test now. I noticed right away that my offset was too far away from the plate and with OrcaSlicer/Klipper I've been able to step the offset closer and closer to reavaluate and I think I've got it now! Thanks for sharing this information and visuals!
OMG. THANK YOU . Thank you SO SO very much.. YOU SIR are a WONDERFUL teacher. and as soon... as I can figure out how to navigate that "buy me coffee" link.. you are getting a whole POT full of coffee. Due to your advice.. I think I have FINALY figured out how to dial in the right settings for my printer & filament... ❤
FULL SUPPORT SIR
There's few of these explanations out there and this one was done well. You can find various bed levelling models on STL sites - the one in this video is huge, which is a bit time consuming. I made my own, which consists of 16 squares, connected with thin walls, that span into the far corners above the adjustment wheels. Do the manual level and get the bed reasonably level, then run the test model and adjust the z-offset compensation, then get a flashlight and closely monitor the extrusion as it prints. This guarantees that your 4 corners are near exact - it also shows you exactly where your bed may be warped. In my case, is showed me that my bed has a high spot just off the center point and that I should expect my 1st layer to have issues in that spot.
Thanks! I was very slightly too close (-1.735 or -1.730 instead of -1.727) and I wasn't sure what visual difference I needed to look out for.
I was afraid to do it more than 1mm and you saved me, thank you!!!!
Great video and information Ricky. I keep hearing complains about printing issues and 90% of it all goes back to bed leveling and getting that first layer right. 🤠
5:29 A beautiful sight for any 3D printer.
Aqua Net Hairspray. And it comes off with a wet rag afterwards. Great for glass beds.
This was awesome thank you, I mistakenly thought z-offset would be covered by the calibration that the ender v3 ke does automatically but upon learning it doesn't this video helped me tune it and my base layer is printing and adhering much better. Thank you!
You were not wrong in your assumption. I have a KE and the auto calibration and z offset never work correctly. The calibration does not compensate correctly for the dips in the bed and the Z offset is ALWAYS at least .05 too high if not more. I always have to paper calibrate after the "auto".
Brilliant video that solved the issue (of my own making) I was having. Thank you very much! Keep up the great content.
Only person who knows what hes talking about. I couldnt get bed properly leveled and was always about 0.1mm too high. And then this guy says they dont factor this in and you need to offset printer before leveling. Mind blown and bed perfect in 5min. In 4 other tutorials and even creality manual noone says this!! cant believe how little correct information is out there, and thanks!
Great tutorial. Thanks for the help. In the process of changing my old process of plaster molds to 3D printing and it's been a little bit of a learning curve!
Your alive, yay love your videos, I would love to see you do a Z-offset on web-klipper
so do we run another bed level after setting the z offset?
Thank you, your Video helped me a lot and now I have a perfect first layer 😊
Absolutely wonderful video thank you. Subscribed
Hi Ricky, where would I find the stl for the large square please
I haven't gotten through the entire vid yet, so this might be answered. I run Klipper and I have a BLTouch installed on my printer. I know my bed is warped because one of the things I have issues with is if I manually raise the Z-offset at a certain spot where I notice the nozzle too close to the bed, when the nozzle gets to another spot on the bed, the offset value doesn't work any longer because of the slight warp. I haven't had massive luck with BLTouch either; it helps a bit, but not much. I don't know what to do in this instance. Z Offset is good if the entire bed was flat, but on a warped bed, it doesn't really help in my case, unless I'm not understanding something correctly?
Will using glue on the bed before and or after setting this affect the offset?
Great video. Short and informative sticking to the subject =)
Thanks! helped me understand what to look for when calibrating z offset.
I do not see the video link that you stated was linked in the description @ 8:48.
hi friend nice video, i am planing to print the air duct for my ender 3 yours look good can you provide the stl ?
Very helpful and simply put. Thanks
Awesome video, however you missed a part that almost none youtuber talks about and I think that's why a lot of people have problems dialing the Z offset. And it's that sometimes if the flow isn't correctly tuned, it can make us think that the Z offset is "high" because we see gaps which could be because under extrusion and not really a Z offset issue or the opposite to close but because over extrusion.
Thanks for a very good explanation. ❤
Great topic, thanks 👍
Tramming vs Leveling, THUMS UP!!!
Grazie, ottimo tutorial. 👏👏👏👍
do you have a link for your z offset test print? would appreciate if i can try that. Thanks!
How much did you change the z offset between the too low, too high, and just right? .1mm .3mm?
Very helpfull video. Thank you!
So if I adjust the z offset when a print just started, does it affect ONLY this print, or is it saved for all future prints?
this helps so much :D thanks 🎉
how would do you know when its a z offset issue vs a flow rate issue? under extrusion looks similar to z-offset being too far for me. thanks
Well if the rest of the print doesn't have under extrusion issues, it's the Z offset.
You should calibrate your flow first assuming you can at least stick to the bed
Where did you get the single square benchy and how thick was it, 2mm?
if the filement is thick coming out does that mean its too hot or too cold?
I have a creality K1-c that worked fine until it didn’t. It slowly started to have more and more print failures until now it can’t even start a print. As soon as the purgeing line is down, its strings to the start of the gcode and starts moving around like its printing but all the filament is sticking to the nozzle. I’ve tried messing with z offset, bed temps, bed leveling is completely automatic, i mess with cleaning the flexible magnetic bed with soap water and isopropyl alcohol. I do still see where previous prints were stuck but its oil free. Idk what’s happening and why nothing sticks to it
My loaded test files print perfect. But when I print something I've downloaded it seems like it's way too high. The the Z Offset need to be adjusted per file?
Hi Ricky, another great video. I have been having lots of success fixing my printer’s problems with your videos. I think my Z offset is tuned properly as my sheet is very flat and smooth, but ripples appear perpendicular to the direction of printing.
Do you have ideas what the issue could be? I have ordered a filament dryer to rule out moisture, my fan is turned off for the first layer.
Did you watch the other video on getting your prints to stick? When you get ripples like that it is usually a combination of being a little close, having a less than perfectly clean bed and sometimes possibly a flow issue. Have you checked your e-steps yet? I have videos for all these things if not.
05:00 so if understand correct, is my offzet is -1.1 y need to put -1.2 or -1.3 to get a correct printing
yeah that looks like what I'm seeing alright, so I'm gonna listen to you, ricky
oh man. one z axis offset increment took me from too close to perfect
Thank you
great video Thanks!
whats the name of that metal shim / clearance tool that you were using to figure out the offset
Its a Feeler Gauge ... Blade Steel Feeler Gauge Dual Marked Metric and Imperial Measuring Tool..
Great info
at 8:42 you used a Feeler gauge, what gap did you use?
The gap is a ballpark. The actual gap needed is a function of filament, bed temperature, and printing surface in combination with distance to produce the optimum first layer. (see bed leveling method video in description)
This👆
Thank you
Do you need to change your flow rate with your z off set?
No, they are very different things.
Fantastic video as always. 👍
What size feeler gauge do you use?
I think it’s an either a 0.1 mm or 0.01 mm cause he normally says one of those in his videos
At what I think is the correct z layer height on my smooth PEI sheet, I still have small 'pinholes' where the diagonals hit the periphery lines (I use the 60x60 square too). I've never been able to prevent this cleanly. Do these appear at any point on yours where you could suggest it's too far or too close from optimum?
At 7:05 I'd say mine appears similar to your lower L and upper R prints.
This middle looks flipped over?
I've decided to get a small microscope for other electronics or prosthetic work since my normal loupes I wear when operating (on people) are only 2.5x. Perhaps it will help *really* hone in a nice result if I make a proper go of it.
I have generally done offsets for each sheet type - smooth, satin, texture (Prusa sheets), and each filament type. Haven't really needed it across brands but then I tend to look for a reliable brand and stay for consistency.
Hi Ricky, what do we do when on some points on the 1st layer we have gaps, on others points we have perfect distance and on some parts the noozle is too close? :/
wash your printing plate, go on auto leveling and there you go
How does Z offset change the z dimensional accuracy ?.
So say, you moved that z limit switch
So do you tell how to calibrate your Z-offset?
I went through half a spool trying to dial in a ender 3 🤦
That's nuts haha
@ yeah couldn’t get it right and it’s still not right but good enough for most things
I still dont understand. The printer takes Z=0 when it hits the button for the Z-axis. If you set your Z-offset to go away from the bed for perfect print, it means that your nozzle was going into the bed when your printer is homed. if the Z-offset moves the nozzle closer to bed, it means that the nozzle was away from the bed when home. But how would the nozzle move closer to the bed if the z button stops it from going down any further ?
Link to microscope please, not in description.
Thanks, now added
Thanks@@RickyImpey
A bit of squished 1st layer always good. Just a a bit
Great video Ricky. I did check out the UZY filament and found it to be outrageously expensive. Sorry but no thanks on that.
Wait, is Uzy copying Prusa's spool design? Looks alike...
Likely come from the same supplier if they are identical. I have a Creality roll on a very similar spool though both sides clear.
Bro is talking in a sauna
That UZY Filament is very expensive.
thank you for properly pronouncing the letter "z" as zed and not in the annoying way americans pronounce it as zee.. such a big pain in the azz offset for me
9 minutes of showing when to adjust z offset and a random microscope ad. 0 tuning techniques presented. production quality is great though. would have been nice to see some examples with example adjustments and what happened after. maybe ill make a video
AS BAYRAKLARIII ASSSS
I didint watch your vid and another thing I don’t want to watch a long video max vid time 3min just for a simple error
Buy a Bambu printer. There. Your z offset is now perfect
I wish it was that easy. My A1 is having issues with the z offset
Not so much bro
Man if I had the 1k LOL
@@iisGavin just get the $600 version 👍
Yeah cause I'm going to buy a Bambu just for a Z offset fix 🙄🙄
Lots of Advertisements...
Talking too much mate
That is literally the whole point of point of the video he’s explaining how to tell if your zed offset it right or wrong so shut up
Ever heard the saying "get to the point"..guess not