Even after a year or so your videos have still helped me whenever I run into trouble with my Ender. This and your other video have saved my butt multiple times. Thank you so much for these videos.
Wow! THANK YOU SOOOOOO MUCH! I purchased an .stl file to create a stencil of circles for cookie work. It printed a horrible mess. I gave up. I fine tuned nozzle, a bit closer to bed by increasing the set negative number, based on your video tutorial, AND IT IS PRINTING BEAUTIFULLY NOW! It's perfect! I can't believe it is working. Your explanation helps me understand a great deal more to fix this and future problems now that I know what to look for. Thanks again!!!
I've watched loads of videos explaining this but this one just clicked with me and I've finally been able to work it out. Thank you so much. New follower gained.
Bought this printer for my son’s Christmas present due to it being used by him due to the school he attends using it in the Library. He loved it and came to his parents. Using your videos to bring my “old man” knowledge up to speed of my son whom tech knowledge is above mine. Going to run it thru its paces BEFORE Santa does the drop. THANK YOU! and… may I suggest you add TikTok or whatever the kids use (as well) to bring you more subscribers to your channel… ❤
I use a 3-4 line skirt to ensure a good z-height and will adjust the bed on the fly. Generally, getting a good 1st layer result when I see a slight valley separating the lines. Too big a valley = lower the z axis / no valley = raise the z axis. To get an accurately levelled bed and proper z axis, try running a multi-lined skirt along the entire perimeter of your print bed and you'll plainly identify which corners need adjustment (and possibly find warped areas on the bed - mine has a slight upward bulge toward the center). Thanks for the good visual representation of this concept.
Thank you for your explanation. I've been having all kinds off issues with my v3 se set to Z -2.16 (especially with white pla, which I've heard can also be an issue). Have set it to -2.2 (based on your video) and WOW! SOOOOOO MUCH BETTER! I'm now running a circle calibration file and the results are looking Amazing!
Your videos and cura profiles have been a lifesaver! Micro Center had the Ender 3 v2 for $99 and ive been getting great results with all your suggestions!
When I got my ender-3 4 year’s ago was your channel that helps me with the build and tuning . Now I just got the new ender 3 v3 SE and your channel once again is helping me. thanks a lot !
Thanks for exceptionally clear descriptions. For viewers lacking experience with other 3D printers, a video simply describing which other videos are applicable to Edner-3 V3 Se (and which are not, and why) would be useful.
I wanted to study this topic, but for some reason I came across your video in English, the subtitles helped me understand the content without knowing English
Just commenting for the algorithm, lol appreciate ya taking the time to make videos. I'm only 7 months into 3d printing, currently have an Ender 3 v2 Neo, and your videos are probably the most helpful to me...
Your videos are a godsend ! I just started last weekend and already after your tweaks and advice ive printed an entire guitar hero controller within 2 weeks kf beggining 3d printing !
After a number of good prints with my Ender 3 V3 SE I found that the first layer wasn't sticking to the plate. I relevelled a number of times tried different temperature settings etc but nothing seemed to work. So in the end I just reset the machine to factory settings, did the initial bed levelling and tried a test print and everything is back to normal again. Just a tip for any that ever have the same problem. I'm very new to this and only got my printer on January 1st so it's a bit of a learning curve. But thanks for your great videos. They help a lot.
Your videos have been helping me with the headache of a new E3V3 SE. I got a bit of a lemon out of the factory with a poorly set gantry and goofy bed. Sadly had a 10 hour print fail in the middle of the night last night but after looking into it my z offset being too low for one side of my bed led to the nozzle knocking the print off the bed. Back to the z offset test prints 🤷♂️
After 7 years I had a massive blob on my Prusa MK2 and accidentally yanked abunch of wires out while removing it. 7 years it motored on. I decided daddy needed a new toy ... ( I'll fix this one too) Just pulled the trigger on a SE yesterday. Loving your videos!
When I got a PEI plate that was slightly thinner than the factory plate I made a very thin square in the slicer and printed it, and adjusted Z offset on the fly. It was hard to determine the right level by eye though.
Thanks for this video, it has been helpful. I recently upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to use lcd touch screen and the marlin 4.2.7 board after it sitting in storage for 3 years. Was trying to figure out my Z offset and this helps since I also got an autoleveler attachment. now I just wish the software had more features and options.
haha i think "I" was one of the people having trouble that messaged you. You knew right away it was Z offset. This could not have come at a better time. Thank you for continuing to make simple easy to follow tutorials. Really appreciate it
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors it did! laying down some really great prints until now i have the opposite problem...nothing being extruded at all! hahaha I can't win. Do you have a video on cleaning the nozzle on an ender 3 v2 by any chance?
i find im constantly adjusting my z offest, its never a set and forget between prints on my Kobra 2 Neo. Switching from textured pei to smooth peo im able to see my first layer better and make better adjustments to my z offest. thanks for the explanation.
thanks for this. it's nuts that anywhere else i was looking to figure this out was essentially like "Does increasing the z offset raise or lower the bed?" "Yes."
mine was set perfectly, then all of a sudden, the prints were sticking a little too much and dragging into my build plate, and this was on the Ender 3 v3 SE, after I auto leveled, and when I used the auto configure before print option. I'm not sure if something messed with the settings, or if maybe the hot end might have not been straight or what. The print was stuck to the plate so well that the build plate broke a hole in the middle when I attempted to remove the 4th print from it :(
Yes, please keep these coming. First video where something was actually explained why it happens and how to fix it. Great video. I too have and ender 3 ve se and really like it but had to replace the slide plate because the one from the factory was bent. Got the new plate installed tonight and now trying to get leveled up. My request after a first level attempt, the graph show a bunch of different levels, all either green (good) blue (close), yellow (needs adjusting) and red (out of whack, lots of adjusting). But how do you change the graph so you r number are green. I know you can manually make the change and guess a number, but what is the right way.
3:03 the higher the number the lower the number? if we are talking about negative numbers, and if we all all agree that -2 is higher than -3, then the rule is the greater the number the greater the distance. Touching the bed might be a -5, a -4 adds some distance, a -1 is a good distance, correct?
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors oh no I didnt adjust in the smallest amounts, I took that adjustment from a 2 to a -4 and scraped a nice sheperds hook into my bed. The new bed was $22 lol
Great vid thank you. I have recently bought an ender V3 se with auto bed levelling. But it's not doing a great job, particularly in certain areas on the board
Just by the opening image (nozzle/Bed): That helped to visualize more than any other video I watched. I just purchased a V3 KE and it's supposed to be auto everything which was one of the reasons I go it. Not so much! I've successfully printed the tugboat and 7-8 other prints (mine and others) however the consistency of the first layer sticking is about 50/50 AND I can't even complete the Creality calibration tests without them ending up in a big blob dragged across the bed. Unfortunately no settings I input improve the outcome and I still can successfully print the first layer of a calibration test. After all my tweaking I think i have a bad printer.
Thank you! I almost have an high elf army printed on my ender 2 pro. But now the baeses come loose without a raft. Hopefully this helps. thanks again and looking forward to the a1 review
Thank you for this! It is very helpful, i'm new to 3D printing. I'm sure this is applicable to Creality K1c right? I have to change the offset in the slicer not in the LCD screen.
Thanks for the information. My printer doesn't have the a "Z" offset on the LCD screen, so what I do is put the offset in the "Start G-Code" in the slicer (look for a G30 Z0.xx ).
The Z offset should be set so that when the printer 'thinks' it is 0.2 mm above the bed (or 0.4 or whatever), it really is. So you should actually measure it instead of trying to eyeball it while printing, otherwise you're allowing for other factors to come into play. For example, if you're using a filament configured so that its flow rate is too high and use it when adjusting the Z offset, you're likely to set it too high to compensate for the high flow. Then you use a different filament and the Z offset is off. So, clean the nozzle, put the printer at a Z of 0.2 and using a feeler adjust the Z offset until it is indeed 0.2 mm above the bed. Save the setting and don't touch it again. If the printer seems to be printing 'too close' or 'too far' from the bed, you'll know its not the offset but some other thing that makes it look like it is. My 2c.
I was just thinking I had a problem with my z-offeset. I thought my first layer was correct, but my parts come out about 1 layer short when doing a block. I think the nozzle is dragging the top IDK. anyway thanks for the content!
Like your videos! May I make a request. So I'm new 3D printing my first printer is the Ender 3 v3 SE. It was your videos that helped me set mine up. Thank you. Anyhow my request is could you make a video that is about acceleration and max speed settings that is in the between the your V2 settings you used and the v3's capabilities? The printer is fully capable of going much faster but since its so new there is literally nothing to help me in this quest.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Leveling the bed IS the number one obstacle to beginning printing. Your video really explains it well. Thank you!
PLEASE KEEP THESE VIDEOS COMING!!!! These are the best tutorials on the V3 SE available. Thank you so much!!!
Thanks for doing this video. This is a very much needed video for newer printers with auto bed leveling.
They certainly arent perfect.... Gotta adjust z offset after every reboot
@@robinderoos1166after leveling and setting z offset you should save settings then use gcode for prints to restore mesh from memory
That first picture was worth a thousand words from other sites, thanks.
I just got an Ender 3 v3 SE and your videos have been so helpful for me as a beginner. Please keep it up!
I'm glad it helped you :)
These videos of yours are just gold for any 3D-printing people out there, keep it up, I hope RUclips puts your videos on the main page!
This guy's a yapper, skip to the 2 minute mark and set playback speed to 1.5 fr
Even after a year or so your videos have still helped me whenever I run into trouble with my Ender. This and your other video have saved my butt multiple times. Thank you so much for these videos.
I am so glad they helped you :)
Wow! THANK YOU SOOOOOO MUCH! I purchased an .stl file to create a stencil of circles for cookie work. It printed a horrible mess. I gave up. I fine tuned nozzle, a bit closer to bed by increasing the set negative number, based on your video tutorial, AND IT IS PRINTING BEAUTIFULLY NOW! It's perfect! I can't believe it is working. Your explanation helps me understand a great deal more to fix this and future problems now that I know what to look for. Thanks again!!!
I've watched loads of videos explaining this but this one just clicked with me and I've finally been able to work it out. Thank you so much. New follower gained.
Bought this printer for my son’s Christmas present due to it being used by him due to the school he attends using it in the Library. He loved it and came to his parents. Using your videos to bring my “old man” knowledge up to speed of my son whom tech knowledge is above mine. Going to run it thru its paces BEFORE Santa does the drop. THANK YOU! and… may I suggest you add TikTok or whatever the kids use (as well) to bring you more subscribers to your channel… ❤
I use a 3-4 line skirt to ensure a good z-height and will adjust the bed on the fly. Generally, getting a good 1st layer result when I see a slight valley separating the lines. Too big a valley = lower the z axis / no valley = raise the z axis. To get an accurately levelled bed and proper z axis, try running a multi-lined skirt along the entire perimeter of your print bed and you'll plainly identify which corners need adjustment (and possibly find warped areas on the bed - mine has a slight upward bulge toward the center). Thanks for the good visual representation of this concept.
Thank you for your explanation. I've been having all kinds off issues with my v3 se set to Z -2.16 (especially with white pla, which I've heard can also be an issue). Have set it to -2.2 (based on your video) and WOW! SOOOOOO MUCH BETTER! I'm now running a circle calibration file and the results are looking Amazing!
my v3 se is terrible for tghis aswell i mighgt have to try it i usually run like -1.9
Your videos and cura profiles have been a lifesaver! Micro Center had the Ender 3 v2 for $99 and ive been getting great results with all your suggestions!
7:34 minutes later and I am SO much the wiser on adjusting and maintaining my new Ender 3 pro. Thank you so much for the awesome explanation man!
When I got my ender-3 4 year’s ago was your channel that helps me with the build and tuning . Now I just got the new ender 3 v3 SE and your channel once again is helping me. thanks a lot !
great video! I'd love to see similar videos on tuning each axis to get quality prints.
Thank you so much, I was going insane trying to figure out why I have no adherence, fixed the offset, worked like magic.
Learning so much! I made this simple adjustment as it printed and the difference is night and day. Much appreciated!
Thanks for exceptionally clear descriptions. For viewers lacking experience with other 3D printers,
a video simply describing which other videos are applicable to Edner-3 V3 Se (and which are not, and why) would be useful.
It’s very helpful to see these new videos geared towards the more modern printers!
I wanted to study this topic, but for some reason I came across your video in English, the subtitles helped me understand the content without knowing English
Please keep making these videos, they are so helpful. 🙏 Thank you for sharing all your experience and knowledge.
Just commenting for the algorithm, lol appreciate ya taking the time to make videos. I'm only 7 months into 3d printing, currently have an Ender 3 v2 Neo, and your videos are probably the most helpful to me...
New to 3D printing and we bought 2 ender3 v3 se printer and still learning the details.Thanks so much for posting this especially on the V3.
Your videos are a godsend ! I just started last weekend and already after your tweaks and advice ive printed an entire guitar hero controller within 2 weeks kf beggining 3d printing !
After a number of good prints with my Ender 3 V3 SE I found that the first layer wasn't sticking to the plate. I relevelled a number of times tried different temperature settings etc but nothing seemed to work. So in the end I just reset the machine to factory settings, did the initial bed levelling and tried a test print and everything is back to normal again. Just a tip for any that ever have the same problem. I'm very new to this and only got my printer on January 1st so it's a bit of a learning curve. But thanks for your great videos. They help a lot.
Amazing!! Now I can finally patch the hole in my wall from banging my head against it over this issue for way too long! haha - LIFE SAVER! Thank you!!
Your videos have been helping me with the headache of a new E3V3 SE. I got a bit of a lemon out of the factory with a poorly set gantry and goofy bed. Sadly had a 10 hour print fail in the middle of the night last night but after looking into it my z offset being too low for one side of my bed led to the nozzle knocking the print off the bed. Back to the z offset test prints 🤷♂️
This channel is underrated, man. Every little issue I found with my printer, you had an answer for. Guess you're the only one paying attention 😂
After 100s of videos finally a tutorial that doesn’t assume you already know anything! Ty!
I have rewatched your older videos and send them to other new people getting involved in 3d printing
Thank you!
for me personally, youtube actually always shows your new videos on my youtube homepage
Always appreciate a good video that explains the basics like this.
New to 3D printing and your videos have been extremely helpful. Thank you!
Love your videos. They helped me when I got started 4 years ago.
I always have a bit of a time getting the z offset set right, thanks for the simple explanation.
Im printing with sla now, but you taught me how to print amazing minis on a machine that people said couldnt do it.
After 7 years I had a massive blob on my Prusa MK2 and accidentally yanked abunch of wires out while removing it. 7 years it motored on.
I decided daddy needed a new toy ... ( I'll fix this one too)
Just pulled the trigger on a SE yesterday. Loving your videos!
Awesome video. This has to be the easiest to understand on setting it up.
When I got a PEI plate that was slightly thinner than the factory plate I made a very thin square in the slicer and printed it, and adjusted Z offset on the fly. It was hard to determine the right level by eye though.
Thanks for this video, it has been helpful. I recently upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to use lcd touch screen and the marlin 4.2.7 board after it sitting in storage for 3 years. Was trying to figure out my Z offset and this helps since I also got an autoleveler attachment. now I just wish the software had more features and options.
Best explanation of z-offset I've ever seen. Liked and Subscribed 👍👍
Thanks!
Thanks man! I'v been strugling for days!
Thank you for this video! I just bought a ender 3 v3 se and am having z-offset issues! Your a god send
Thank you for your simple explanation which make so much sense
some of the best tech breakdowns out there, thank you!
Your first graphic told me more than 3 other videos together.Thank you
Thank you for the explanation on Z offset, now I understand why was thid on my printer.
This is extremely helpful information. Thanks for taking the time to share it here!
Yes! This video has helped me so much! Your illustration really captured my issue exactly and gives me an idea of what I need to fix. Thanks a lot!
love your videos. Commenting because you asked nicely.
Thank you, I appreciate it :)
Really like the squish section
Simply explained, thanks
Appreciate all the tuning tutorials
Well explained and the graphics really helped. Much appreciated. Cheers! ❤
Great video as always Tom!
Thank you :)
haha i think "I" was one of the people having trouble that messaged you. You knew right away it was Z offset. This could not have come at a better time. Thank you for continuing to make simple easy to follow tutorials. Really appreciate it
I hope it helps! :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors it did! laying down some really great prints until now i have the opposite problem...nothing being extruded at all! hahaha I can't win. Do you have a video on cleaning the nozzle on an ender 3 v2 by any chance?
@@reneesteeves3698 this will show you what to do: ruclips.net/video/30qqKUwviww/видео.htmlsi=Wz6aX91jFXMKIWp8
This helped me alot, thanks man. Technical stuff that was simplified and understandable.
i find im constantly adjusting my z offest, its never a set and forget between prints on my Kobra 2 Neo. Switching from textured pei to smooth peo im able to see my first layer better and make better adjustments to my z offest. thanks for the explanation.
Thanks, I took some time off after just getting into the hobby, and I was having trouble with this!
thanks for this. it's nuts that anywhere else i was looking to figure this out was essentially like "Does increasing the z offset raise or lower the bed?" "Yes."
Thank you for showing this in a way I understand!!!!
I'm glad it helped you :)
great video... only place I've found the answers I was looking for!
mine was set perfectly, then all of a sudden, the prints were sticking a little too much and dragging into my build plate, and this was on the Ender 3 v3 SE, after I auto leveled, and when I used the auto configure before print option. I'm not sure if something messed with the settings, or if maybe the hot end might have not been straight or what. The print was stuck to the plate so well that the build plate broke a hole in the middle when I attempted to remove the 4th print from it :(
Been there, and i got a textured plate, never had an issue and adhesion is better, as well as print quality
Yes, please keep these coming. First video where something was actually explained why it happens and how to fix it. Great video.
I too have and ender 3 ve se and really like it but had to replace the slide plate because the one from the factory was bent. Got the new plate installed tonight and now trying to get leveled up. My request after a first level attempt, the graph show a bunch of different levels, all either green (good) blue (close), yellow (needs adjusting) and red (out of whack, lots of adjusting). But how do you change the graph so you r number are green. I know you can manually make the change and guess a number, but what is the right way.
Thanks, Tom. Love your clear guides for tuning prints.
Thanks for demystifying the Z axis!
Thanks for an easy to understand explanation!
Excellent explanation. Many thanks.
Thanks hoping this helps me as well. Was always told never go higher than .15 haha thanks for the info!
exactly what I looked for, you solved the problem, thank you so much for sharing!
3:03 the higher the number the lower the number? if we are talking about negative numbers, and if we all all agree that -2 is higher than -3, then the rule is the greater the number the greater the distance. Touching the bed might be a -5, a -4 adds some distance, a -1 is a good distance, correct?
Correct, but make only slight adjustments in hundredths of a mm.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors oh no I didnt adjust in the smallest amounts, I took that adjustment from a 2 to a -4 and scraped a nice sheperds hook into my bed. The new bed was $22 lol
Great vid thank you. I have recently bought an ender V3 se with auto bed levelling. But it's not doing a great job, particularly in certain areas on the board
Thank you for this video, helps me so much
I have a qidi x 3 plus coming in next week… excited.
Just by the opening image (nozzle/Bed): That helped to visualize more than any other video I watched. I just purchased a V3 KE and it's supposed to be auto everything which was one of the reasons I go it. Not so much! I've successfully printed the tugboat and 7-8 other prints (mine and others) however the consistency of the first layer sticking is about 50/50 AND I can't even complete the Creality calibration tests without them ending up in a big blob dragged across the bed. Unfortunately no settings I input improve the outcome and I still can successfully print the first layer of a calibration test. After all my tweaking I think i have a bad printer.
Thank you! I almost have an high elf army printed on my ender 2 pro. But now the baeses come loose without a raft. Hopefully this helps. thanks again and looking forward to the a1 review
having a hell time wi my new printer thnks for making these videos :)
Thank you for this! It is very helpful, i'm new to 3D printing. I'm sure this is applicable to Creality K1c right? I have to change the offset in the slicer not in the LCD screen.
thank you for your advis, my printer is working again.
Thanks Tom, understand now Z
great video, great explain as always :D
I wished I seen this a couple of days ago!
Thanks for this simplified help!
Thanks for the great video, hope that's enough words to promote
Thanks for the information. My printer doesn't have the a "Z" offset on the LCD screen, so what I do is put the offset in the "Start G-Code" in the slicer (look for a G30 Z0.xx ).
Thank You for your wonderful video man! Keep it up!
Helpful video, thank you 🙌🏻
Thank you for this information. Great explanation.
Very helpful, thank you!
Great explanation.
Thank you so much! From Brazil
The Z offset should be set so that when the printer 'thinks' it is 0.2 mm above the bed (or 0.4 or whatever), it really is. So you should actually measure it instead of trying to eyeball it while printing, otherwise you're allowing for other factors to come into play. For example, if you're using a filament configured so that its flow rate is too high and use it when adjusting the Z offset, you're likely to set it too high to compensate for the high flow. Then you use a different filament and the Z offset is off. So, clean the nozzle, put the printer at a Z of 0.2 and using a feeler adjust the Z offset until it is indeed 0.2 mm above the bed. Save the setting and don't touch it again. If the printer seems to be printing 'too close' or 'too far' from the bed, you'll know its not the offset but some other thing that makes it look like it is. My 2c.
Thanks for the information, I appreciate you!
I was just thinking I had a problem with my z-offeset. I thought my first layer was correct, but my parts come out about 1 layer short when doing a block. I think the nozzle is dragging the top IDK. anyway thanks for the content!
Like your videos! May I make a request. So I'm new 3D printing my first printer is the Ender 3 v3 SE. It was your videos that helped me set mine up. Thank you. Anyhow my request is could you make a video that is about acceleration and max speed settings that is in the between the your V2 settings you used and the v3's capabilities? The printer is fully capable of going much faster but since its so new there is literally nothing to help me in this quest.
*Side note* does changing print speed in Cura itself affect the Max speed and Acceleration of the printer or does one override the other?
Great video.
Thanks this was very helpful!
Short and right on, thanks!
Great info. For $200, the SE is great for both beginning and seasoned users.