As some have pointed out, mounting the IPA bottle on the rail near a running heated 3D printer is not the best idea. Keep it stored in a safe dry place when printing. You can store it in the holder when the printer is not running so it’s there when you are ready to start a print.
Hey CHEP, useful video as always (Maybe not the storing flammable liquid near the printer haha!) but wondering where did you get the CAD model for the bracket? Trying to find that double slot CAD model, it's a real pain to find!
@@FilamentFriday the very first time i try left permanent marks so I'm no using alcohol unless im printing on the plain glass side. Craality says to use water with little dish soap . Bottom line : don't touch the plate
It's good to struggle a bit when learning this hobby, just not to the point of becoming frustrated and quitting. It took me quite a few prints as a beginner to finally get things right. You have to learn what setting does what, and the distance from nozzle to bed and what a perfect print even looks like when you get there. After a awhile, you'll instantly know what to adjust, and videos like this help tremendously! Great video for a newby!
This man Chuck really just solved all my 3d Printing problems ive been having for months in just one video under 10 mins ! Now thats what i call TOP QUALITY content!
I wish more people had your style of presentation. Time is our most valuable asset. Thank you for spending your time, helping people like me, with videos like this. I had my best print to date, after watching this and integrating your suggested changes to Cura. My adhesion was perfect. It was the largest job yet and it was sitting loose on the plate this morning when I reached for it. Unbelievably, outstanding improvements. Have a great day! -from a new subscriber! Thanks again!
THANK YOOOU I set up a printer for my bro 6m ago with no problems. I just got the same brand - different model and was on day 4 of tweaking and failed print jobs. All of the other solutions I found online were things i had already tried. I was ready to throw my printer off the balcony. Your video was the first I saw to mention anything more than the standard solutions. You saved my new printer's life, it thanks you.
Not sure if helpful for others, but I took the liberty of noting out Chuck's tips. I believe all these settings are for Cura. 1) Level the bed 2) Clean the bed with IPA 3a) Under 'Material': Bump up printing temp (up 5 degrees, or 10 on glass bed) 3b) Initial layer even hotter (around 215) 4) Under 'Quality' : Change Initial Layer Line Width - usually 100%, but change to between 115% to 125% 5) Under 'Walls' : Check "Outer Before Inner Walls" 6) Under 'Speed' : Slow down initial layer. Initial Layer Speed = 20.0 mm/s, Initial Layer Print Speed 20.0 mm/s, Initial Layer Travel Speed 35.0 mm/s 7a) Under 'Top/Bottom' : Change 'Bottom Pattern Initial Layer' to Concentric (default is Lines) 7b) Check the 'Connect Top/Bottom Polygons' (default is off) Nb. At time of writing, it seems "Walls" options are slightly different now. There is an 'Optimise Wall Printing Order', and a subsequent 'Wall Ordering' option. Its default is "Inside to Outside", with the alternative option being 'Outside to Inside'. I expect this new option is similar to Chuck's original intention for this step.
These tips rocked, Chuck. I've been so frustrated with my Ender 3 for the last month when I couldn't get prints to stick or leveling right. This video and the bed adhesion one you did helped me do a total 180. You're the Mr. Rogers of 3D printing, sir.
Don’t quit take your time. I spent the last few days thinking I’ve been doing everything wrong. I followed these steps and really took my time to understand these steps. I have a print going as I type this and it’s going perfect! Keep at it and keep learning happy printing!
Thank you so much. I just got my 3-D printer. How about a week ago and I was stressed because I could not figure out what the hell was wrong with it. After following all your steps, it’s finally sticking to the bed again.🎉🎉
I've been unable to print for the better part of a week due to sudden bed adhesion problems. I've been all over Reddit and various forums with little success. One CHEP video and I'm back in business. Should've just looked here to begin with! Thanks CHEP!
My son and I have spent 4 days trying to print Plane Kit Cards and they just were turning into a big ball of rats nests. I made several of your recommendations and cleaned the heck out of the bed and we are on our 2nd card. Thank you so much. I took notes so I can make changes when needed
Just got my printer this past weekend and this channel took me from knowing nothing to feeling pretty comfortable in just a couple days. Thanks for all the help! I'll still be coming back lol
The Slice Settings that you gave, has a New Meaning when using ABS. I have been so successful so far with ABS, that I do not even use a "brim" to secure the base. I believe the biggest help in the settings, was the Top & Bottom, and using the Concentric tab. I also set my Hot End at 250 and the plate 110 with ABS, and also slow my speeds down, which is part of your suggestions above. I also make a light ABS slurry, and apply it on the surface prior to the heat, after cleaning the surface. We are told ABS is not a big problem on the 3D printer.....Not So. I purchased an enclosure, which is good, but never had a good ABS model, until now. I have a motorcycle that needs ABS because of heat and now I can build pretty much anything. Thanks for your help and previous help to make my 3D printer work right.🙂
This video was so helpful. In conjunction with a ton of tweaking to my bed leveling my printer is finally printing great first layers without the need of a raft.
One other thing that you do that can help with adhesion it use a skirt. There often isn't a good flow rate when the printer starts printing. The skirt gives the printer a chance to get the flow rate right when it starts printing the parts you want to keep. A brim or raft can also be useful for tall parts that might get knocked over during the print.
I used to use the paper to dial it in. I now use the paper to get it close. I made a 120mm square with a brim, turn the speed down, and I adjust on the fly when it’s making its big squares. I was never sure what the paper method would give me and now I can see how good the first layer prints on the fly.
I watched this one just to make sure I wasn't missing something simple. But I finally got mine to make an actual perfect mirror image on the first layer. Worth every second of setup, especially when you can take a print off and hit print without touching anything. Cuts down on headaches
There are swaths of people on youtube giving tips about 3d printing, i always stop and watch yours because you always teach me something. You know your stuff and your videos are always straight to the point. You're amazing for the 3d print community.
I don´t know how to thank you. I got my pinter today and it has been a pain. I have been so sad because it did not work for me at all. My husband tried to help me but we could not get the print to stick. We tried hairspray to. Then I saw your video and copied your settings. And now it works!!! IM SO HAPPY!!!! THANK YOU
Thanks a bunch! I just got my old 3D printer out of storage after a while. I bought a G10 bed and updated the motherboard, but I’m still having some issues with sticking. I did a lot of research, and they say the usual “level the bed” hours of bed leveling didn’t help. But then I found your video, and I’m getting perfect first layers every time!
Had my Ender 3v2 for just a shade over a month, the low point was experimenting with glue stick which make a hellish mess of the print bed (and took hours to clean and recalibrate). The best solution I had to date was bumping pretty much all 10 filament materials setting in Cura to have a bed temp of 65C and an extruder temp of 210C. I hadn't got around to experimenting with Cura's first-layer settings, but I'm very grateful to Chep that there looks likeany more finely grained and not super-obvious settings to try.
I use glue stick, the purple disappearing kind. Clean bed , apply glue stick , print comes off easy. Print again might not stick as well, apply more glue stick. I might repeat this once or twice more. Then I get out the windex(wonder if water would do same) paper towel, and a trash can near by. I spray the windex on the bed. You can see the glue turn purple. I wipe it off with paper towels. Might have to repeat those windex steps a few times till clean as a babies a…….
@@bruceyoung1343 Ah, in the UK I was using Pritt Stick (white in colour), probably a close match or rebrand. I found that even a relatively thin residual layer caused this stuff to bake itself hard on the plate, ever IPA couldn't shift it. Of course this stuff is water soluble so had to remove the glass plate and run it under the hot tap. In a few seconds the stuff just washed away. In conclusion I'd only now use Pritt Stick as a last, albeit pretty guaranteed, resort.
@@bruceyoung1343 most definitely! I run the Jyers' firmware with a CR Touch and for giggles ran the "manual" bed level feature to return the probed values for each corner and they where waaaay off.
@@ethzero I have a Ender 3Pro extended to 300 x 300 x 500 currently still stock mainboard. Have a BTT SKR 1.4 turbo , bells and whistles for board, I have same CRtouch(metal probe), touch screen all to install but haven’t yet.
Definitely going to try these out. I've been having an issue with my first, or first couple of layers on one specific side of all of my prints. After watching this, I realized that the size that I pull my prints up from, and touch the bed with my fingers. Time to do some cleaning and set a new template with all these settings.
Thankyou so much for the tips, I was struggling with my printer all day yesterday and was about to give up but your isopropyl alcohol fix worked a charm, now my first layers are nice and bump free
Thank you so much, mate. I've been running around like a chook without it's head trying to figure out why my prints kept falling over no matter where i positioned on the plate, how often I cleaned, how much I lubricated wheels, screws, tightened, adjusted things, how many supports, brims, rafts etc I used. I'd tried so many things to no avail. THEN! Using the settings you demonstrated here, along with a little fine tune of my first layer squish, and.....you little ripper! I'm finishing prints again instead of having a bin full of pieces that keep getting knocked off the plate at the 65-75% mark. Thanks again, mate. Your advice here was a godsend. Cheers!
Hi. Not having experience with cura, your advice is excellent. It helped to solve my small wrapping and shrinkage issue on the corners of a large build. The first layer looks fantastic and sticks well to the bed, with no shrinkage. Thanks again for the excellent video advice.
When I first got my Creality CR-6 SE, alcohol was all I needed to get the bed clean, then over time it just wasn't working. I had installed the community firmware for my printer but wasn't well versed enough to know what needed to be done after doing so. Your videos especially helped me so much. I made sure to set the e-steps correctly and just used some soap and water to clean the glass bed. Those two things alone have changed my printer from unusable to awesome! Thanks Chuck.
Thanks a lot for those tips, they really helped fix the issues I have. But I am not sure how they came up. I suppose filament color change has its own issues too.
I am a newbie and have been confusing for weeks on how to make the first layer right. This is video is very helpful and I solve the problem immediately with setting changes on slicer. Thank you very much!
Thank you CHEP! I succesfully was printing for over a year with preassebled ender 3 max. I can imagine that it was possible only through blessings of Printing Gods. Only recently have I noticed that pretty much all wheels were loose. I had wobbly bed and x axis grinding itself. After carefuly calibrating everything, including the e-steps, Printing Gods abandoned me and I had results similar as shown in video. Following these steps resolved my issue.
Great tips there! I hadn't used IPA because I could swear I had seen an article from Creality saying not to use IPA on the new bed type. Having just had a partial print detach and totally clog the nozzle area on my CR-10 V3 it is definitely getting cleaned with IPA before every print 😁
I've subsequently cleaned the standard Creality bed with IPA after every print. The bed looks nearly as good as new and prints stick very well now and also detach easily when the bed is cold.
THANKS! Because of this video I switched back to CURA from S3D and I am seeing amazing first layer results. This video came out just in time for me too.
Thank you so much. yesterday i switched my nozzle to 0.6 using your fast profile for my Neptune 2s and spent all day today failing to get a print to stick then i watch this a couple hours ago and without fail i got 2 beautiful benchies. Once again thank you and the rest of the 3d community. you guys are awesome. Cant wait till i can contribute as well.
So I rarely miss one of your videos, and this one came back to help me. I have been using hairspray to help with adhesion on my glass bed for years now... Never had any issues with this until I tried to print the articulating, "print in place" dragon and one or more parts would come off during the print... I remembered this video and said... What have I got to loose?... Well I have printed 3 dragons for family members without one loss print.... Next big test, a 1" dowel 390 mm tall, no brim, and it stuck perfectly... Thanks again for the help.
These are great tips. I'd also like to add that setting your initial layer height to 75% of your nozzle size helps too. My nozzle is .4mm so I print my initial layer at .3mm.
I made these very simple changes to my print and omg the difference!! I was really struggling with bed adhesion; especially with overall consistency and now it seems to be printing a whole lot better!
thank you so much man, i did days of research and nothing was working until i found this video. informative and straight to the point, you've saved me a ton of headache!
I tend to prefer the Creality glass bed and initially it had no issue. I standard having some minor problems that IPA couldn't fix. I tried glue stick but didn't like the mess. Switched to a quick spritz of cheap AquaNet hairspray and it's my go to!
I used >99.5% IPA between all my first prints and it still refused to stick. Seems like it still left some residue on my Creality glass bed. Cleaning with regular soap once made it stick much more reliably.
Hello CHEP, I think there is an error in your video. At around 0:57, you seem to suggest to change the "Initial printing temperature", but it's actually the "Printing Temperature initial layer" that should be higher (215C) I did the test and the print temperature for the first layer was 205... As always, great video :)
Yeh i was going to design something similar to hold my IPA.... then i considered the 200°C nozzle.... and things like thermal run away.... and figured I'd be best storing the alcohol a bit away from the heat source!
Always enjoy watching your videos and have learned a lot! I was using 91% alcohol but couldn't figure out why I was having issues getting prints to stick. I noticed the alcohol started to remove the top layer from my carbon glass bed. My wife told me to try Eye Glass Cleaner from my experience it seems to help prints stick a little better and its also not as harsh as using straight alcohol. Hope this helps anyone else experiencing this problem. Also before I forget I use a microfiber cloth that I found at Walmart in the Auto department.
Its not a carbon glass bed its Silicon carbide which is incredibly hard and does not come off with alcohol cleaning. Alcohol affecting these glass beds is just one of many annoying myths that crops up in 3D printing.
@@backgammonbacon Yes that's what it is! Drew a blank on whats it's called. Maybe mine was defective or something but it was coming off. Using something other than 91% or 71% alcohol is working for me
Thanks Chuck, those Cura tips are awesome but my issue is probably the cleaning. Just got my printer a couple days ago. My first print turned out really well but now I'm having this issue. I had success bumping up the nozzle and bed temperatures, but its not failsafe. I've swept it off and wiped it down, but I haven't taken the bed off yet for a proper scrub. Sounds like this is my problem.
my print was warping so much up in the middle, but after using IPA and using the concentric pattern it just turned out SO PERFECT! even though i don't use Cura (i use Thq Qidi slicer to my Qidi printer) the functions are the same. I should watch some more of your videos.
Amazing! I have a bed that is slightly lower in the middle and i was struggling to get that 1st layer to stick on a particular shape. Upon following the points in this video, it made the print. Every advice on this channel always works for my particular challenge..once again amazing. Russell from Qatar.
Hi Chep, thank you for sharing your tricks! :) I use something else, under MATERIAL - Initial Layer flow - set it to something like 120% - if I need a brim for avoiding warping, I also bump that up. For cleaning the bed I use glass cleaner and a microfiber. This avoids me using rafts 99% of the time now. P.S. I have an Ender 3 Pro with a slightly warped original Ender 3 bed - so without the magnetic stuff
Honestly your knowledge on printing is amazing and hopefully I will learn alot from you. Ive only done a few prints and struggling with variations but hopefully I'll soon get it. It blows my mind the things we can do with printers. Keep up the good work and thank you
Your channel has the most useful information for 3D printing. Just found your channel too a few hours ago. Wish I found this when I first started 3D printing
Between prints I like to use the microfiber cloth. No alcohol just the cloth. I find that the bed has a lot of static electricity and it's attracting dust. After so many prints maybe four or five then I'll use a little alcohol after the bed is cool down completely.
Thank you so much for this video. I'm still pretty new to 3d printing and after a couple weeks without issue, I had run into an issue where my first layer was laying so badly it would curl up and catch on the extruder causing the whole first layer to start dragging around, I re downloaded my sonic pad profiles I tried my default cura profiles tried tramming the printer and leveled the bed over and over and tried glue sticks no matter what I couldn't get a good even stick on the first layer, SO I took this guide and used it as a fresh start following basic guidlines for a good first layer along with some of your recommended settings and I'm seeing good clean first layers again with no curling or lifting, will take a few more prints before I have my settings really dialed in but I was starting to lose confidence in fixing this until I followed along with this video.
Dude, you literally saved me twise with this video. I had trubels for over a year now I was near quitting until you saved me with the alcohol tip. Great, thanks man ♥️
worked WONDERFULLY!! i do have trouble with my skirt adhesion not sticking in some areas, and its completely random, and ive leveled my bed, but it still just happens
Chep, Making things to make your life easier, Isopropyl bottle holder, what a legend! A true engineer! Reminds me of Dilbert with the paper cup in his top pocket as a pen holder. I love it.
When are people having first layer issues that need to be fixed in the slicer? Is it just particular materials like ABS? The only first layer issues I've had so far (still pretty new to this) were because I needed to clean the bed. I'll be doing that more frequently even if it looks clean.
I've been having some sporaduc but very irritating issues with curling recently and after trying several tweaks I really wasn't much closer to solving the issue when it appeared. After watching this video I added an extra 5% to my first layer and I'm yet to have an issue on the few quick prints I've done since
Latest 5.x cura doesn't seem to have many of the setting you propose, like initial layer... I have just updated my main board to V4.2.7 so I will be going through a raft of calibration processes. To stick to the bed ? I use prittstick and a damp tissue to spread the glue around the bed to cover the print area. Works every time...
I am glad I found this video. My upgrade to auto bed levelling didn't help much and I was getting really frustrated. Not sure which one of your tips made it for me (suspect it was the cleaning with IPA) but I applied all of them and now I haven't performed any manual adjustment for a while and my prints are perfect. Great video. Thanks a lot.
This was so helpful! I had been noticing my brims are failing near the bottom of the plate on larger prints. It was the oil from my fingers where I'm always touching the plate to move it!!!! Thank you for pointing that out! I was going crazy trying to figure out settings or print models as the reason for initial layers warping :)
I’m just getting into the hobby. I’ll be using this info this evening after work, when I continue to adjust my printer. I’ve gotten a few prints out, but many fails as well, and a lot that I have aborted just a few minutes in due to not getting a good bed to print on. I think this will help tremendously.
I guess for me when I had trouble with getting parts to stick to bed, I learned to use spray adhesive or using brim in the slicer settings or both of those. Works well for me.
I also put insulation below the bed so the heat spread more evenly, it reduces the warping (the middle part of the bed usualy a lot hotter than the edge and expand more)
Fantastic video! I noticed that you have some red strips inside your 40/40 rails to prevent loose filament from getting in there, and you have a custom knob attached to your LCD, could you go over what you think are some of the best print-able upgrades that you always print whenever you get a new printer? Thanks Chuck!
I'd like to see a video about printing PETG on the Ender 3 V2 and how it sicks on that surface. I want wo start printing PETG and don't know if I have to put something on it to prevent ripping of the surface when removing the print as I've seen it on other glass surfaces or if ut works because of the texture. Would be an interesting topic as I've not seen any recommendations in that certain case
PEI + Purple Gluestick has worked almost alarmingly well for me for PLA & PETG. (Ender 3 with mods). I have a Creality glass bed but Ironically I haven't used it in a while ever since I started using the 'just a bit too much' gluestick method. 10kg+ of PLA so far and rarely any problems even on lace-like first layers.
@@mustafatelawi9961 If you do everything he says plus level your bed, wash the build plate with dish soap, and dry your filament, and that still doesn't work.... It may be the filament or printer itself. Could need better bed springs, a z-axis baby-step, or something else a bit more obscure.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
As some have pointed out, mounting the IPA bottle on the rail near a running heated 3D printer is not the best idea. Keep it stored in a safe dry place when printing. You can store it in the holder when the printer is not running so it’s there when you are ready to start a print.
Hey CHEP, useful video as always (Maybe not the storing flammable liquid near the printer haha!) but wondering where did you get the CAD model for the bracket? Trying to find that double slot CAD model, it's a real pain to find!
I created it in Tinkercad.
Just so you know. Craality glass build plate coating dissolves if alcohol used on it . I Lean the hard way 😃
How long did it take?
How many applications of alcohol?
@@FilamentFriday the very first time i try left permanent marks so I'm no using alcohol unless im printing on the plain glass side. Craality says to use water with little dish soap . Bottom line : don't touch the plate
It's good to struggle a bit when learning this hobby, just not to the point of becoming frustrated and quitting. It took me quite a few prints as a beginner to finally get things right. You have to learn what setting does what, and the distance from nozzle to bed and what a perfect print even looks like when you get there. After a awhile, you'll instantly know what to adjust, and videos like this help tremendously! Great video for a newby!
Same here started printing for 2 weeks know
Still there is much to learn like i still can't get to print something in mid air without a mess
You need to get the right printer for that. An Ender 3 while trying to print relatively large parts is not a good idea for a beginner.
@@bre39y i always use support for that. Using ender 3
@@mostafakhaligy857 it mostly makes a mess by sticking to the print
@@bre39y u can always change the support settings
This man Chuck really just solved all my 3d Printing problems ive been having for months in just one video under 10 mins ! Now thats what i call TOP QUALITY content!
I wish more people had your style of presentation. Time is our most valuable asset. Thank you for spending your time, helping people like me, with videos like this. I had my best print to date, after watching this and integrating your suggested changes to Cura. My adhesion was perfect. It was the largest job yet and it was sitting loose on the plate this morning when I reached for it. Unbelievably, outstanding improvements. Have a great day! -from a new subscriber! Thanks again!
THANK YOOOU
I set up a printer for my bro 6m ago with no problems. I just got the same brand - different model and was on day 4 of tweaking and failed print jobs. All of the other solutions I found online were things i had already tried. I was ready to throw my printer off the balcony. Your video was the first I saw to mention anything more than the standard solutions.
You saved my new printer's life, it thanks you.
Not sure if helpful for others, but I took the liberty of noting out Chuck's tips. I believe all these settings are for Cura.
1) Level the bed
2) Clean the bed with IPA
3a) Under 'Material': Bump up printing temp (up 5 degrees, or 10 on glass bed)
3b) Initial layer even hotter (around 215)
4) Under 'Quality' : Change Initial Layer Line Width - usually 100%, but change to between 115% to 125%
5) Under 'Walls' : Check "Outer Before Inner Walls"
6) Under 'Speed' : Slow down initial layer. Initial Layer Speed = 20.0 mm/s, Initial Layer Print Speed 20.0 mm/s, Initial Layer Travel Speed 35.0 mm/s
7a) Under 'Top/Bottom' : Change 'Bottom Pattern Initial Layer' to Concentric (default is Lines)
7b) Check the 'Connect Top/Bottom Polygons' (default is off)
Nb. At time of writing, it seems "Walls" options are slightly different now. There is an 'Optimise Wall Printing Order', and a subsequent 'Wall Ordering' option. Its default is "Inside to Outside", with the alternative option being 'Outside to Inside'. I expect this new option is similar to Chuck's original intention for this step.
Thanks for doing this.
These tips rocked, Chuck. I've been so frustrated with my Ender 3 for the last month when I couldn't get prints to stick or leveling right. This video and the bed adhesion one you did helped me do a total 180.
You're the Mr. Rogers of 3D printing, sir.
Can't believe the difference these settings make. Perfect printing since. Thanks a million.
Don’t quit take your time. I spent the last few days thinking I’ve been doing everything wrong. I followed these steps and really took my time to understand these steps. I have a print going as I type this and it’s going perfect! Keep at it and keep learning happy printing!
The quality of my first layers improved immensely with these simple changes. Thank you!
00:52 Initial Temperature [+5/+10]
01:01 Initial Later Line Width [125%]
01:16 Outer Before Inner Wall [√]
01:23 Initial Layer Speed [20]
Initial Layer Travel Speed [35]
01:53 Bottom Pattern Initial Layer [Concentric]
Connect Top/Bottom Polygons [√]
Now this is an informative video, straight to the point, without long introductions and useless chit chat. Thank you!
I cannot get enough of your videos. This is BY FAR the most informative channel for those new to the 3D printing hobby.
Thank you so much. I just got my 3-D printer. How about a week ago and I was stressed because I could not figure out what the hell was wrong with it. After following all your steps, it’s finally sticking to the bed again.🎉🎉
I've been unable to print for the better part of a week due to sudden bed adhesion problems. I've been all over Reddit and various forums with little success. One CHEP video and I'm back in business. Should've just looked here to begin with! Thanks CHEP!
Glad to help
cleaning the bed solved my terrible first layer problem. I didn't know that it was so critical. thanks for the amazing tip!
This is a great video for anyone having sticking issues... Short, to the point... Much appreciated...
My son and I have spent 4 days trying to print Plane Kit Cards and they just were turning into a big ball of rats nests. I made several of your recommendations and cleaned the heck out of the bed and we are on our 2nd card. Thank you so much. I took notes so I can make changes when needed
Those slice settings have made a world of difference for me. Thanks for making this video.
Just got my printer this past weekend and this channel took me from knowing nothing to feeling pretty comfortable in just a couple days. Thanks for all the help! I'll still be coming back lol
same 4 me...starting yesterday and already solved my first layer issues.
Another great one is the Z offset plugin so give you just a little more control over how close you get the nozzle.
Yep, I’ve showed that before: ruclips.net/video/h_Mohd7JLzw/видео.html
The Slice Settings that you gave, has a New Meaning when using ABS. I have been so successful so far with ABS, that I do not even use a "brim" to secure the base. I believe the biggest help in the settings, was the Top & Bottom, and using the Concentric tab. I also set my Hot End at 250 and the plate 110 with ABS, and also slow my speeds down, which is part of your suggestions above. I also make a light ABS slurry, and apply it on the surface prior to the heat, after cleaning the surface. We are told ABS is not a big problem on the 3D printer.....Not So. I purchased an enclosure, which is good, but never had a good ABS model, until now. I have a motorcycle that needs ABS because of heat and now I can build pretty much anything.
Thanks for your help and previous help to make my 3D printer work right.🙂
Most brilliant, simple, helpful video I have ever seen to fix my printer issues! Thanks a lot.
This video was so helpful. In conjunction with a ton of tweaking to my bed leveling my printer is finally printing great first layers without the need of a raft.
One other thing that you do that can help with adhesion it use a skirt. There often isn't a good flow rate when the printer starts printing. The skirt gives the printer a chance to get the flow rate right when it starts printing the parts you want to keep. A brim or raft can also be useful for tall parts that might get knocked over during the print.
I used to use the paper to dial it in.
I now use the paper to get it close. I made a 120mm square with a brim, turn the speed down, and I adjust on the fly when it’s making its big squares.
I was never sure what the paper method would give me and now I can see how good the first layer prints on the fly.
I watched this one just to make sure I wasn't missing something simple. But I finally got mine to make an actual perfect mirror image on the first layer. Worth every second of setup, especially when you can take a print off and hit print without touching anything. Cuts down on headaches
There are swaths of people on youtube giving tips about 3d printing, i always stop and watch yours because you always teach me something. You know your stuff and your videos are always straight to the point. You're amazing for the 3d print community.
Thanks
I don´t know how to thank you. I got my pinter today and it has been a pain. I have been so sad because it did not work for me at all. My husband tried to help me but we could not get the print to stick. We tried hairspray to.
Then I saw your video and copied your settings. And now it works!!! IM SO HAPPY!!!! THANK YOU
Thanks a bunch! I just got my old 3D printer out of storage after a while. I bought a G10 bed and updated the motherboard, but I’m still having some issues with sticking. I did a lot of research, and they say the usual “level the bed” hours of bed leveling didn’t help. But then I found your video, and I’m getting perfect first layers every time!
Awesome tips. Thanks! What about a video about the double Z axis kit installation for the Ender 3?
Used these settings after I swapped to a different head end. Was having adhesion issues. These worked great. Thank you so much!
Had my Ender 3v2 for just a shade over a month, the low point was experimenting with glue stick which make a hellish mess of the print bed (and took hours to clean and recalibrate).
The best solution I had to date was bumping pretty much all 10 filament materials setting in Cura to have a bed temp of 65C and an extruder temp of 210C.
I hadn't got around to experimenting with Cura's first-layer settings, but I'm very grateful to Chep that there looks likeany more finely grained and not super-obvious settings to try.
I use glue stick, the purple disappearing kind. Clean bed , apply glue stick , print comes off easy. Print again might not stick as well, apply more glue stick. I might repeat this once or twice more. Then I get out the windex(wonder if water would do same) paper towel, and a trash can near by. I spray the windex on the bed. You can see the glue turn purple. I wipe it off with paper towels. Might have to repeat those windex steps a few times till clean as a babies a…….
@@bruceyoung1343 Ah, in the UK I was using Pritt Stick (white in colour), probably a close match or rebrand. I found that even a relatively thin residual layer caused this stuff to bake itself hard on the plate, ever IPA couldn't shift it.
Of course this stuff is water soluble so had to remove the glass plate and run it under the hot tap. In a few seconds the stuff just washed away.
In conclusion I'd only now use Pritt Stick as a last, albeit pretty guaranteed, resort.
@@ethzero Pritt Stick / Purple stick. I like it because can control where want it. Do you have to re- level the bed after cleaning in sink?
@@bruceyoung1343 most definitely! I run the Jyers' firmware with a CR Touch and for giggles ran the "manual" bed level feature to return the probed values for each corner and they where waaaay off.
@@ethzero I have a Ender 3Pro extended to 300 x 300 x 500 currently still stock mainboard. Have a BTT SKR 1.4 turbo , bells and whistles for board, I have same CRtouch(metal probe), touch screen all to install but haven’t yet.
Definitely going to try these out. I've been having an issue with my first, or first couple of layers on one specific side of all of my prints. After watching this, I realized that the size that I pull my prints up from, and touch the bed with my fingers. Time to do some cleaning and set a new template with all these settings.
Thankyou so much for the tips, I was struggling with my printer all day yesterday and was about to give up but your isopropyl alcohol fix worked a charm, now my first layers are nice and bump free
Thank you so much, mate. I've been running around like a chook without it's head trying to figure out why my prints kept falling over no matter where i positioned on the plate, how often I cleaned, how much I lubricated wheels, screws, tightened, adjusted things, how many supports, brims, rafts etc I used. I'd tried so many things to no avail. THEN! Using the settings you demonstrated here, along with a little fine tune of my first layer squish, and.....you little ripper! I'm finishing prints again instead of having a bin full of pieces that keep getting knocked off the plate at the 65-75% mark. Thanks again, mate. Your advice here was a godsend. Cheers!
Hi. Not having experience with cura, your advice is excellent. It helped to solve my small wrapping and shrinkage issue on the corners of a large build. The first layer looks fantastic and sticks well to the bed, with no shrinkage. Thanks again for the excellent video advice.
Out of all 3D printing youtubers, you have helped me the most. Thank you.
Your video is very timely. Almost gave up after numerous time of levelling, even after installing BL touch, ..will try it out with your tips!
if you can't find option in Visibility Settings "Outer Before Inner Wall" @ 01:16, look for "Wall ordering" outside to inside.Cura V5.4
I use windows 7 and cura 4.10.0 and it all works like a dream. Not sure what the upgrades do. I can even install plug-ins in problem.
When I first got my Creality CR-6 SE, alcohol was all I needed to get the bed clean, then over time it just wasn't working. I had installed the community firmware for my printer but wasn't well versed enough to know what needed to be done after doing so. Your videos especially helped me so much. I made sure to set the e-steps correctly and just used some soap and water to clean the glass bed. Those two things alone have changed my printer from unusable to awesome! Thanks Chuck.
The Glue stick really helped me
I'm 3 hours into my new Ender 3 S1 and this video helped me tremendously, thank you!
Thanks a lot for those tips, they really helped fix the issues I have. But I am not sure how they came up. I suppose filament color change has its own issues too.
Thank you, kind sir! Those changes made a big difference for one of my Ender 3 Max printers! Got my first good print in over 2 months of that printer!
Thank you so match, it very helped. The 1st layer is perfect now. No lines moved, all in place as it suppose to be.
Dude, you single-handedly fixed my prints. Thank you!
Thank you, I dint realize how much fingerprints/oil was such a problem or even that it was a problem at all. 100% better first layer!
After a week of tinkering watching this video helped make my first successful print in days thank you!
I am a newbie and have been confusing for weeks on how to make the first layer right. This is video is very helpful and I solve the problem immediately with setting changes on slicer. Thank you very much!
Thank you CHEP!
I succesfully was printing for over a year with preassebled ender 3 max. I can imagine that it was possible only through blessings of Printing Gods.
Only recently have I noticed that pretty much all wheels were loose. I had wobbly bed and x axis grinding itself.
After carefuly calibrating everything, including the e-steps, Printing Gods abandoned me and I had results similar as shown in video.
Following these steps resolved my issue.
Sharing this to the FB groups, awesome for the new fellas and for old timers in the game as well
Great tips there! I hadn't used IPA because I could swear I had seen an article from Creality saying not to use IPA on the new bed type. Having just had a partial print detach and totally clog the nozzle area on my CR-10 V3 it is definitely getting cleaned with IPA before every print 😁
I've subsequently cleaned the standard Creality bed with IPA after every print. The bed looks nearly as good as new and prints stick very well now and also detach easily when the bed is cold.
THANKS! Because of this video I switched back to CURA from S3D and I am seeing amazing first layer results. This video came out just in time for me too.
Thanks that has sorted it! No glue no mucking about. More importantly no string!
2 1/2 years later, still preach this video to the new folks to the crowds
Thank you so much. yesterday i switched my nozzle to 0.6 using your fast profile for my Neptune 2s and spent all day today failing to get a print to stick then i watch this a couple hours ago and without fail i got 2 beautiful benchies. Once again thank you and the rest of the 3d community. you guys are awesome. Cant wait till i can contribute as well.
So I rarely miss one of your videos, and this one came back to help me. I have been using hairspray to help with adhesion on my glass bed for years now... Never had any issues with this until I tried to print the articulating, "print in place" dragon and one or more parts would come off during the print... I remembered this video and said... What have I got to loose?... Well I have printed 3 dragons for family members without one loss print.... Next big test, a 1" dowel 390 mm tall, no brim, and it stuck perfectly... Thanks again for the help.
These are great tips. I'd also like to add that setting your initial layer height to 75% of your nozzle size helps too. My nozzle is .4mm so I print my initial layer at .3mm.
I made these very simple changes to my print and omg the difference!! I was really struggling with bed adhesion; especially with overall consistency and now it seems to be printing a whole lot better!
This should be the first video to watch after assembly, it can save you time and money. Thanks s for the help.
After years of printing somehow I just forget to apply the basics, these videos are great for new and experienced hobbyists
Chuck! I was about ready to toss my printer until I applied your profile edits. Thanks for your support to the 3D printing community, awesome stuff!
thank you so much man, i did days of research and nothing was working until i found this video. informative and straight to the point, you've saved me a ton of headache!
I tend to prefer the Creality glass bed and initially it had no issue. I standard having some minor problems that IPA couldn't fix. I tried glue stick but didn't like the mess. Switched to a quick spritz of cheap AquaNet hairspray and it's my go to!
I used >99.5% IPA between all my first prints and it still refused to stick. Seems like it still left some residue on my Creality glass bed. Cleaning with regular soap once made it stick much more reliably.
OMG Thank You!!! Those setting changes in Cura saved my larger prints! Cannot thank you enough!
Hello CHEP, I think there is an error in your video. At around 0:57, you seem to suggest to change the "Initial printing temperature", but it's actually the "Printing Temperature initial layer" that should be higher (215C)
I did the test and the print temperature for the first layer was 205...
As always, great video :)
+1 true
Thank you, after hours and hours of trying to get my first layer to stick these settings helped!
Raising the nozzle temp by 5 degrees did the trick ! Thanks.
Yeh i was going to design something similar to hold my IPA.... then i considered the 200°C nozzle.... and things like thermal run away.... and figured I'd be best storing the alcohol a bit away from the heat source!
Always enjoy watching your videos and have learned a lot! I was using 91% alcohol but couldn't figure out why I was having issues getting prints to stick. I noticed the alcohol started to remove the top layer from my carbon glass bed. My wife told me to try Eye Glass Cleaner from my experience it seems to help prints stick a little better and its also not as harsh as using straight alcohol. Hope this helps anyone else experiencing this problem. Also before I forget I use a microfiber cloth that I found at Walmart in the Auto department.
Its not a carbon glass bed its Silicon carbide which is incredibly hard and does not come off with alcohol cleaning. Alcohol affecting these glass beds is just one of many annoying myths that crops up in 3D printing.
@@backgammonbacon Yes that's what it is! Drew a blank on whats it's called. Maybe mine was defective or something but it was coming off. Using something other than 91% or 71% alcohol is working for me
Thanks Chuck, those Cura tips are awesome but my issue is probably the cleaning. Just got my printer a couple days ago. My first print turned out really well but now I'm having this issue. I had success bumping up the nozzle and bed temperatures, but its not failsafe. I've swept it off and wiped it down, but I haven't taken the bed off yet for a proper scrub. Sounds like this is my problem.
my print was warping so much up in the middle, but after using IPA and using the concentric pattern it just turned out SO PERFECT! even though i don't use Cura (i use Thq Qidi slicer to my Qidi printer) the functions are the same. I should watch some more of your videos.
A brilliant practical solution to my first layer nightmare. Thank you so much. Very well illustrated and explained thoroughly.
Amazing! I have a bed that is slightly lower in the middle and i was struggling to get that 1st layer to stick on a particular shape. Upon following the points in this video, it made the print. Every advice on this channel always works for my particular challenge..once again amazing. Russell from Qatar.
Hi Chep, thank you for sharing your tricks! :) I use something else, under MATERIAL - Initial Layer flow - set it to something like 120% - if I need a brim for avoiding warping, I also bump that up.
For cleaning the bed I use glass cleaner and a microfiber.
This avoids me using rafts 99% of the time now.
P.S. I have an Ender 3 Pro with a slightly warped original Ender 3 bed - so without the magnetic stuff
This was fantastic advise. The first adjustments made corrected all my imperfections. Thanks
Honestly your knowledge on printing is amazing and hopefully I will learn alot from you. Ive only done a few prints and struggling with variations but hopefully I'll soon get it. It blows my mind the things we can do with printers. Keep up the good work and thank you
Your channel has the most useful information for 3D printing.
Just found your channel too a few hours ago.
Wish I found this when I first started 3D printing
Between prints I like to use the microfiber cloth. No alcohol just the cloth. I find that the bed has a lot of static electricity and it's attracting dust. After so many prints maybe four or five then I'll use a little alcohol after the bed is cool down completely.
Thank you so much for this video. I'm still pretty new to 3d printing and after a couple weeks without issue, I had run into an issue where my first layer was laying so badly it would curl up and catch on the extruder causing the whole first layer to start dragging around, I re downloaded my sonic pad profiles I tried my default cura profiles tried tramming the printer and leveled the bed over and over and tried glue sticks no matter what I couldn't get a good even stick on the first layer, SO I took this guide and used it as a fresh start following basic guidlines for a good first layer along with some of your recommended settings and I'm seeing good clean first layers again with no curling or lifting, will take a few more prints before I have my settings really dialed in but I was starting to lose confidence in fixing this until I followed along with this video.
Fr bro my print was dragging too but this guide helped.
Slowing down that travel speed was big.
Dude, you literally saved me twise with this video. I had trubels for over a year now I was near quitting until you saved me with the alcohol tip. Great, thanks man ♥️
worked WONDERFULLY!! i do have trouble with my skirt adhesion not sticking in some areas, and its completely random, and ive leveled my bed, but it still just happens
Chep, Making things to make your life easier, Isopropyl bottle holder, what a legend! A true engineer! Reminds me of Dilbert with the paper cup in his top pocket as a pen holder. I love it.
When are people having first layer issues that need to be fixed in the slicer? Is it just particular materials like ABS?
The only first layer issues I've had so far (still pretty new to this) were because I needed to clean the bed. I'll be doing that more frequently even if it looks clean.
I've been having some sporaduc but very irritating issues with curling recently and after trying several tweaks I really wasn't much closer to solving the issue when it appeared. After watching this video I added an extra 5% to my first layer and I'm yet to have an issue on the few quick prints I've done since
Latest 5.x cura doesn't seem to have many of the setting you propose, like initial layer...
I have just updated my main board to V4.2.7 so I will be going through a raft of calibration processes.
To stick to the bed ? I use prittstick and a damp tissue to spread the glue around the bed to cover the print area.
Works every time...
hit the 3 lines to the right of search setting and select all
@@NuttyRam Oh, of course... Visibility..
Face palm time.. Thank you...
I am glad I found this video. My upgrade to auto bed levelling didn't help much and I was getting really frustrated. Not sure which one of your tips made it for me (suspect it was the cleaning with IPA) but I applied all of them and now I haven't performed any manual adjustment for a while and my prints are perfect. Great video. Thanks a lot.
You make the best tutorials and tricks for 3D printing. Your videos helped me in so many dirrefent situation. Thank you.
This was so helpful! I had been noticing my brims are failing near the bottom of the plate on larger prints. It was the oil from my fingers where I'm always touching the plate to move it!!!! Thank you for pointing that out! I was going crazy trying to figure out settings or print models as the reason for initial layers warping :)
Thanks! I was getting frustrated at the lack of quality on the first layer, I used the settings you gave, and the next print came out perfect!
Nice one again Chuck. simple, precise, and to the point. Expect nothing less :-)
I’m just getting into the hobby. I’ll be using this info this evening after work, when I continue to adjust my printer. I’ve gotten a few prints out, but many fails as well, and a lot that I have aborted just a few minutes in due to not getting a good bed to print on. I think this will help tremendously.
I guess for me when I had trouble with getting parts to stick to bed, I learned to use spray adhesive or using brim in the slicer settings or both of those. Works well for me.
I also put insulation below the bed so the heat spread more evenly, it reduces the warping (the middle part of the bed usualy a lot hotter than the edge and expand more)
What insulation did you use?
I'm using roof insulation foil, it looks like shiny bubble wrap 🤣
What could be the settings you mentioned for Prusa Slicer?
Fantastic video! I noticed that you have some red strips inside your 40/40 rails to prevent loose filament from getting in there, and you have a custom knob attached to your LCD, could you go over what you think are some of the best print-able upgrades that you always print whenever you get a new printer? Thanks Chuck!
I'd like to see a video about printing PETG on the Ender 3 V2 and how it sicks on that surface. I want wo start printing PETG and don't know if I have to put something on it to prevent ripping of the surface when removing the print as I've seen it on other glass surfaces or if ut works because of the texture. Would be an interesting topic as I've not seen any recommendations in that certain case
PETG prints just fine on the glass bed. Needs to be clean and go slow on the first layer and the head needs to be further away than it does with PLA.
PEI + Purple Gluestick has worked almost alarmingly well for me for PLA & PETG. (Ender 3 with mods). I have a Creality glass bed but Ironically I haven't used it in a while ever since I started using the 'just a bit too much' gluestick method. 10kg+ of PLA so far and rarely any problems even on lace-like first layers.
Does the filament quality, age, humidity have to do anything with the first layer to stick?
It can. Depends on the filament brand or type of filament.
@FilamentFriday I did everything in the video, nothing worked, I'm seriously thinking about selling the machine.
@@mustafatelawi9961 If you do everything he says plus level your bed, wash the build plate with dish soap, and dry your filament, and that still doesn't work.... It may be the filament or printer itself. Could need better bed springs, a z-axis baby-step, or something else a bit more obscure.