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There must have been a firmware update to the Neptune 3 printers since you make this video. I just got the Neptune 3 plus and to turn off “Power-loss Recovery” before you print go to "Settings" then "Advanced Settings". You can also turn it off while printing under "Settings" button on the printing page.
Your videos are so well done and interesting. Just thought I would tell you! Thanks for the tips! 😊 By the way, Everson. Did you know that Jesus Christ died on the Cross for your sins? And He did so because He loves you very very much! And in fact, He made you! With His hands he formed you. For it is written: "And the LORD God formed man of the dust of the ground, and breathed into his nostrils the breath of life; and man became a living soul." So never think that your life is meaningless or does not have a purpose! Because it in fact has a very very GREAT purpose! And that purpose is to know and understand our Creator. You should read the Holy Bible! Possibly starting with the Book of Matthew (or John). Genesis is also a great start! But the New Testament tells us what God's goal is for mankind, which is for us to be saved! For the wages of sin is death; but the gift of God is eternal life through Jesus Christ our Lord. There is a lot of peace in knowing God. I hope that you come to know Him. God bless you, Everson. "And there is salvation in no one else, for there is no other name under heaven given among men by which we must be saved." Acts 4:12
I don't own any 3D printer or had any project on it, but I think in this world there's some people who are frustrated with these kind of problem but had no clue about it but thanks to you they found the solution! Great video!
This took me almost 2 weeks to figure out when I first started printing and was my exact problem. Glad this video has 2 million views so its easy for others to find.
Another option would be to use arcs instead of lots of little segments. That would decrease the amount of gcode needed in any given time period significantly, to the point that you could probably print that circular object with 2 lines of g-code per perimeter, one for the circle, and one to move the nozzle to the next starting point. Arcs still aren't well implemented by slicers from what I've seen, but they're getting better. I think biggest issue might be that most models are distributed in STL files which, as mentioned, don't have any curves so slicers need to attempt to figure out what's supposed to be a curve and what isn't. I think STEP files can do curves, so perhaps people should start using those more.
Your comment is SPOT ON! But firmware also needs to get better: ARC was not properly implemented for bed-level compensation: if you have a big arc, it seems only the edges would go up or down to follow the mesh… height changes that should occur in the middle were not applied at all… But the future is bright 😃 For CAD models, step format must be supported for more slicers too: it seems only the PrusaSlicer Beta support them now.
It has been a bugbear of mine for ages that STL files are just inadequate for high-quality models. I think it started because it's an easy format to parse, so early slicers used it and it became the de-facto standard. PrusaSlicer does now import STEP files, but it polygonizes them before slicing, so it amounts to the same thing. A G-code command for b-splines already exists (G5), and I'm sure that plane/b-rep surface intersection is mathematically viable. I know slicing is a very difficult task full of corner-cases, so even if it just uses b-splines for the outer surface, that would be a big quality improvement.
I've been using Arc Welder program / plugin. I had to update the firmware on my printer to support this but at the end the moves are certainly smoother!
I had this issue on my Elegoo N3Pro from one print job to another, same file, same filament same everything. Thanks to this video I changed out the cheap SD card which came with the printer for another sub-32 GB FAT32 SanDisk SD Card and voila - zero blobbing. No power recovery control needed to be turned off to get back great print quality.
Thanks for telling me this! I was honestly in doubt if it was useful to mention other causes - the cheap SDCards, cheap/long USB Cable… I am happy it helped you 🤗❤️👍
Hey, I am changing to a Octopus board and I decided to use Klipper. From what I understand how Klipper works, the power loss recovery shouldnt be problematic here. What do you think?
This is the first video I watch on your channel and is... amazing! I'm sure that your content must be great after this. Thanks for sharing good quality videos!
Very clear and concise explanation! I ran into this issue when printing high-poly models off the SD card, but when I got OctoPrint setup the issue went away altogether. I always assumed OctoPrint was faster than my printer when processing GCODE commands, but I think that it must have been a crappy SD card. Fantastic video, and I'm sure it will help many people new to 3D printing.
@@alanb76 you're right, though there are pre-processor plugins like Arc Welder and Octolapse that modify the geode before it gets sent off to the printer.
I have had this problem on $200-$2000 printers and have never seen as good of an explanation as you just gave good sir! Thank you so much for the advice, definitely going to try this. You just gained a new sub!
I can't believe I was about to give up on silk filament until I found your video after I read a Reddit post about the side effects on printing quality of this power off recovery feature that is turned on from factory. I turned it off using your gcodes and it worked. Thanks!!!!
I've been struggling with blob issues in my prints for the last week or so and only a couple of days ago did I manage to figure out it was due to Octoprint not being able to keep up with filling a command buffer for my Prusa Mini after upgrading to FW 5.1.2 and enabling Input Shaper for much faster print speeds. While the root cause of my issue is not the same as yours, the underlying mechanics are pretty much the same. Had I seen your video a week ago instead of getting completely irrelevant answers on forums (wet filament, overhangs???, etc.) I could have saved tons of time! You did such a great job explaining the whole concept and even touched in my exact issue in your conclusion - I'll try optimizing my Octoprint setup for speed and stable connectivity and see if I manage to get better results! Really glad I came across your video, i'll definitely link it in all of my forum posts as the practical answer to my issues!
Hi there! Oh, I am so glad you figured out the problem with your printer - maybe just using a higher bitrate on the serial connection would help too… but that depends on the specifics of every board and what is supported. I used to love OctoPrint… but I recently got into an insane Rabbit hole about print artifacts and I could see differences between printing from the SDCard and from OctoPrint… (which gets just a tidy bit of extra artifacts)… I am moving all my printers to Klipper this year. I am so glad you liked the video - welcome to the channel! This year I’ll dive into some crazy stuff about what makes a print really smooth or not - so, stick around! 🤗
@@GeekDetour Interesting idea about bumping up the bit rate of the serial connection of the Octoprint, I'll have to look into it! Currently I'm planning on giving the PrusaLink a shot as a replacement for Octoprint since to my understanding PrusaLink loads the gcode from my computer to the printer directly so it's comparable to running it from the SD Card. I'll have to take a look though! In any case, really looking forward to see what else you have planned, if it's even half as good as this video - I'll definitely enjoy it!
I don't even know anything about 3D printing or have ever dabbled in printing myself.. but I can still confidently say this was a very informative and concise video! Earned a sub from a first time viewer with this video.
The timelapse is incredible! I especially like the shot with the purple lighting. Could be a great screensaver! You have another subscriber, thanks for the interesting upload!
My guess at 0:40 in. Resume print in power failure was enabled causing the printer to pause for a split second as it writes the position back to the SD card
Thanks for the video. Professional machinist here going to get my first printer soon, still learning about printer hardware, drivers etc, have to rewind my brain quite a bit to my older cnc machines as it helps me get into printer mindset as they are pretty similar in terms of some similar issues compared to the power of my new machining centers. Drip feeding millions of lines of code into one of my older vertical machining centers from 1989 with an older fanuc control presents similar issues on occasion to this. Thanks for the great content!!!
Wow! I am glad you enjoyed the video - it is an “advanced/corner-case” topic and I wanted to make it deep enough, but easy to understand. You seem to know your stuff, so, I am relieved the video still looks interesting for technical people! 😂
@@GeekDetour haha, I know a bit about machining, I have run my own precision fab shop for twelve years now and worked in a few different industries prior. I have a lot of older nc equipment and specialize in oddball robotic integration and product development for many industries. Oddly I have been supplying parts FOR really high end 3D printer manufacturers for the past decade. I know a lot about metal printing from powder and additive near net in aerospace alloys, but very, very little about common 3d printers that don't cost $200k. I have much to learn! Been really enjoying your videos
It looks fascinating! Of course, hobby printers are a completely different world - muuuuuch simpler, and yet, because of the low-price components, the quality of the results can vary A LOT. And getting the best out of these machines sometimes require a lot of tweaking. You will certainly have fun! It is crazy to have mini-factories at home! Eventually, even metal powder prints will arrive at our homes!
Oi Everson! Excelente vídeo! Uma boa alternativa para imprimir peças com alta quantidade de polígonos e sem a necessidade de desabilitar o power loss recovery é o pluguin Arc Welder(tem no cura). O que ele faz é aproximar uma série de pontos no perímetro da sua peça para um arco, o que gera um gcode muito menor, uma vez que cada arco é formado por apenas 3 pontos e pode percorrer vários milímetros. Vale a pena explorar, uma vez que da tempo pro buffer da impressora carregar os próximos pontos e também salvar a posição necessária para o recovery.
Olá Murillo! Você tem toda razão. Eu já tinha usado Arc Welder recentemente - e de fato a Neptune 3 veio com suporte para comandos de arcos. Tudo funcionou perfeito e sem blobs mesmo com o Power-loss Recovery habilitado. Mas nem toda impressora suporta isso, e também só conheço o plugin pro Cura. A dica é boa, funciona e merece um vídeo sobre isso.
I had similar issue where my print was perfectly fine until it gets to a very narrow point where path is very short before moving onto the next movement and all of the sudden I had blobs on two specific corners of the print. Glad to know that it might just be a ram shortage issue.
Amazing that you figured this out! I print certain "standard" pieces for my business, and most of them are mostly "cylindrical". The real question is, why don't slicers and 3d printers support g2-g3 movements. Makes the code incredibly lighter, and leaves the interpolation to the controller. I've tried using a plugin called ArcWelder, but it mostly messes up the code for some reason.
Nope, first, thanks for the donation. NOW, let’s talk about Arc Welder: it works! If your printer is not printing it well, you should look into updated versions of the firmware for your printer. I was happily surprised that the Neptune 3 (that I show in the video) had ARC support from factory and indeed it printed this test piece perfectly (even with Power-loss Recovery activated, no Blobs!). My older printer, a Frankenstein Ender 3 (highly modified) doesn’t print ARCs well - it is my fault because I enabled it and compiled the firmware very shortly after ARC was introduced in Marlin… I am sure it I get a newer version of Marlin, adjust for my FrankEnder and compile it again, it would make ARCs nice now. Yeah! G2 and G3 are the future for curves… I want to see it implemented on all slicers without plugins. But we are in a transition period. A Lot of printers still don’t have it.
@@GeekDetour any chance of a video for the new g2 and g3 feature on the latest prusa version released just a few days ago? Perhaps a little overview on the subject is in order? Thank you in advance sir!
I don't have this problem with my printer but on a whim I decided to click the video and I just LOVE how expressive you are! It glues me to my seat in the same way any good speaker does. Keep making awesome videos man, I'm definitely sticking around for them!
Dude. You make next level content. Insanely informative. I can tell you are a highly intelligent individual and you do an EXCELLENT job at proportioning your information and explanations so it's digestible without being boring. 10/10
Oh man… 🤗 I really appreciated your kind words! I love making this type of content - I hope the channel grows enough to be financially viable. Videos like this, right now, are almost a mistake 🤑🤣 Oh, we moved to a house that we bought, with space for a bigger workshop - I am finally back to making more videos, so, subscribe!
Thank You, A novice printer here. I wanted to print some items in Silk PLA and have spent a week attempting to print with no success. I watched videos and read articles on how to set up the slicer to no avail. I had watched your video and didn't realize what I was seeing. I finally realized that the blobs were not random and then aha your video opened the heavens.
@@GeekDetour Yes with one exception. I am printing a half sphere. Three sides were perfect, one side from bottom to top has slight imperfections. Which makes me think that I may have a fan issue. I print in an enclosure. I have the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max.
I’ve taken break from printing for too long. I feel encouraged now after watching this to do some printer maintenance and get back to making stuff. Thank you!
Guess: Pressure in the Bowden tube after switching from the faster infill to the slower perimeters. Or a too slow retraction when ending the perimeter, so filament still gets pushed out. Solution: Enable Linear advance, less extreme differences between infill and perimeters and quick retractions. Edit: I was wrong, my suggestions fall into the "randomized seam" category.
To anyone out here that still has this problem even when following the instructions in this video (thank you for the video btw), try disabling your webcam. The camera can cause this for two reasons: 1. It stops to take a picture for a timelapse (the nozzle oozes) 2. The webcam steals resources (CPU) causing your server to stall for a while (stalling means no commands are parsed to your printer) I struggled with this for quite a bit. Update: I don't know what changed but since I wrote this comment I can print non issue with the webcam stream enabled. Maybe it has something to do with me tweaking the buffers in the firmware for my SKR board, or the cura 5.3 update. I can't be sure what fixed it but it works.
Making Timelapses usually is not nice for the piece you are printing. Everytime I make a timelapse, I am more worried of having a beautiful video, knowing the printed part will be less then ideal.
I am not a creator but I like the peace of mind webcam support offers. I mean you can watch your print remotely (you can also run failure detecting tools such as octoeverywhere's gadget or obico). I have ordered a cheap ip cam online just for this reason.
Well this is oddly satisfying. I don't own a 3D printer, have no plans to, but I love this kind of problem-solving. Your delivery is really interesting, and the whiteboard was fun
@@GeekDetour I like videos on things that are outside my usual hobbies or expertise, maybe it's why I used to turn up at random uni lectures back in the 90s. Though I love the idea of owning a 3D printer I know I probably won't in the next 5 years, but it's worth getting to a little about the work that's happened and is happening to bring a technology into common use. Going to show this to dad, he was a precision manufacturing engineer up until around 2003. He'll love it
Hi Jim! Thanks! Well, my GCode doesn’t do anything other than disable Power-loss Recovery. The only change that would be very nice is to be able to disable (or enable) it on the LCD UI. Power-loss Recovery has been a strong marketing selling point. I don’t know how much people really benefit from it… What I want to see in future printers is the hardware implementation that detects the power-loss, but has Capacitors to keep the board enough time to - then - save a checkpoint and turn off.
Awesome video! I’m new to 3D printing and it feels like there’s a new hiccup with every other print, so this really helps. The problem solving has been quite fun, but it’s nice being able to discover content like this- easing future headaches lol Now, If I may: as a sound geek, I would gently suggest an edit to your audio EQ. Namely lowering the Gain on your mic to minimize the clasping noises of the mouth (or if your gain is already low, I would point to using a low-pass filter), and a slight high-pass filter to lower the sibilance/ “S” noises. Nothing egregious, however. Your audio is more than passable as it is
Hi Jason! Thanks! The best part of 3D Printing is definitely the never-ending journey of learning. Sound is another never-ending journey. Your comments are nice (and gentle, thanks!) Every person will Equalize on a very different taste. And the perception of a “good sound” will change a lot too depending on where the video is watched: mobile phone without headphones, in-ear headphones, headphones… and some headphones are very bass-heavy, others are more neutral… some lower-cost phones are more muffled. And there are TVs and Home Theaters (that if you go very “Pod-Casty Bass”, it sound very Boomy on Home-Theaters…. My audio chain has all you can imagine: de-hiss, compressor, too-low frequency cut… I hear the videos in many devices, a few headphones, on the living room - and I might favor a more aggressive high because it favors clarity of speech. A TV Broadcast audio engineer would probably change it a lot, but, then… he would use different microphones as well… Audio is infinite - just like 3D Printing 😄
I've never used a 3D printer and I only have the faintest idea of how it works, but I have a technical (software developing) background. Your video is very simple and well explained and made me understand the problem, causes and solutions perfectly. So congratulations on making such a great video =D
Oh, thanks!!! That’s very sweet! Let me tell you: don’t buy a 3D Printer!!! 😂 It is INCREDIBLY ADDICTIVE! There are lots of tiny details to learn and master - it is a fascinating journey! Buy one! I mean, don’t! You’ve been warned 🤣
I just sent someone this video to explain this problem, so thank you for making it! I did find one more issue that could affect this. I was seeing this exact problem on my Neptune 2, but it started happening only after using my printer for a few months, despite me mostly printing high-poly vase mode prints. For me, it turned out that it was the SD Card. The ones that ship with the Neptune 2 specifically -- though likely a lot of other printers as well -- are pretty low quality. I replaced the card with a new brand name card, did not change any settings, and have been printing the same models for about a year now with no issues. As you mentioned at the end of the video, NAND flash does dies eventually, so replacing the card when see such issues is a good idea, since it's likely more issues will start happening soon anyway.
Thanks!!! It is easy to explain: my channel was born around iPhone/iPad/Mac tips and tricks - it was growing steadily up to 60k subscribers. Then I bought a 3D Printer and my mind was hijacked into “OMG! I need to be a Maker!” (it is more complex than that, but it sumarizes it well). Changing what your YT channel is about is a BIG No-no for the algorithm. Every video I launched I lost 500 subs. The algorithm doesn’t know who to show your video to… everything gets messed up, people that used to love your content now don’t like your new content. After a very slow 2 years, it seems things are starting to grow normal on the new direction. Thanks for asking! Very kind! 🤗
@@GeekDetour I guess the Al Gore Rhythm works now. Good topic, perfect video editing and that ending is brilliant. Good video all the way through. Subbed for more.
Ahhh the problem I’ve been trying to solve for weeks, is as simple as Turing off my Prusa’s power-loss recovery setting How helpful of RUclips today, and great video!
Really like that you made this video more fun than most others. Great delivery, and like that you set the tone of topic real well. you should be proud of your approach here
Thank you so much @damen238 for the great encouragement and kindness. Yes, I am super proud of this video, for many reasons: when I made it there was very little information about this issue and all the major manufacturers were just shipping printers with the feature enabled by default, and they were unaware of drawbacks in print quality. On the forums and groups we had constant posts of people scratching their heads… and the guessing was all over the place. Two days after I published the Video, Elegoo wrote me an email saying they would include a menu option to turn it off/on easily - and they did! Creality also did the same. Finally, this video is one of the most watched technical videos about 3D Printing, and the community wrote mostly kind and grateful comments here. I cannot ask for more! ❤️😄
Alternative is to use arch welder to create curves and use that in G-code instead of simple lines generated by slicers. A G-core for one layer of a circle can be written in 1 (ONE) line like that, while a polyline needs thousands for it to make it smooth...
Yeah! It works. I tested and it was even supported on the Neptune 3 that I used in the video. But I don’t like the fact that curves are not really on the STL file itself - it will make sense when/if we start printing from STEP files, that would have the original curved geometry information
Also, compiling a firmware with arc support and using something like "arc welder" to substitute multitude of small segments into gcode arcs helps a lot. Funny arc interpolation has been in real CNC control like Linux CNC for ever... Good printer firmwares are catching up.
Absolutely true! The Neptune 3 that I used in this video already came with ARC support and it indeed makes it work fine even with the Powerloss Recovery activated. BUT the only viable Slicer to use it is Cura with “Arc Welder” plug-in. In a near future most printers will be running ARCs 👍
I use the Arc Welder plugin for Octoprint, which will work with any slicer. Every time I upload a file it automatically generates an arc welded version and I just select that file to print instead if it's anything circle-heavy. With certain models the file will often end up at least 50% smaller. Also it's trivial to add this (and lots of other features, assuming you've got a chip with enough memory) even if the manufacturer didn't think to include it by building your own firmware. Marlin is fairly simple to compile and upgrade on newer boards with SD card bootloaders so you can do lots of customization and keep up with new features even on old hardware that didn't ship with it in the original firmware config.
@@ailivac With gyroid infill, arc welder consistently gets it down to about 60% of the size, even without the model having lots of circles. As some of the more curved infill patterns become more popular, I wonder if it'll become commonplace for slicers to incorporate arc support
@@bandana_girl6507 Yes, the gcode is more compact, the instruction rate is higher though and the board actually has to do more calculations, as there is no way to make a smooth circular movement with the most popular kinematic designs. It just gets translated into a series of linear movements, the exact same way the slicer does this, just on the fly. It helps if your SD card is too slow (which honestly is basically impossible), but it doesn't help at all if you are running into instruction limits (which is very possible). The same is true with LinuxCNC, but there it is a bit different, as the instruction rates are distributed differently between the components. To be perfectly honest: monolithic firmware like marlin has been a great tool to bring the community forward, but by now, it is simply outdated.
I had this exact issue when trying vase mode for the first time, but I already figured it out before watching this video. Very entertaining presentation though!
Cara, quando eu comprei a minha Ender 3 V2, eu estava exatamente com esse problema. Tinha tentado vários ajustes recomendados e o rasgo continuava aparecendo muito mais proeminente do que o esperado. Aí eu reparei exatamente isso: o problema era a pausa entre cada camada. Depois de cavar MUITO na internet, eu finalmente achei essa sua mesma solução. Coloquei o M413 S0 no final do GCode de início e tudo se resolveu. O seu vídeo tinha que ter aparecido antes para mim! Eu teria sofrido bem menos, hehe.
Oh, thank you! ❤️ Nope! I never made voice-over work. Some friends here said they would like to listen to audiobooks with my voice - I feel flattered! But it is a struggle: English is not my native language and I make lots of silly mistakes.
Yes, I had octoprint cause blobs or hesitations when it was printing. It was caused by a plugin that checked the raspberry pi's system resources. I removed the plugin and it worked fine after that. I also had a USB cable cause a similar issue. I went to a braided cable and the problem went away. So far I have no experienced the issue caused by power loss recovery being enabled. This was a good video, I quite enjoyed it.
I read your comment many days ago - just having time to answer it today 😅 Thanks! We used to have quite hot discussions about if OctoPrint would give the same quality as the SDCard… I LOVE OctoPrint, but I compared MANY times and I always found tiny defects here and there, subtle irregularities. It was always “passable”, but yeah, OctoPrint via serial doesn’t work as smooth as printing from the SDCard. Anyways, I feel that OctoPrint might die sooner or later - Klipper is taking all printers by storm. For many reasons.
the threads you pulled to reach this conclusion is just beyond my comprehension, this happened to me just a day from seeing this video, fixed instantly
Great video! I also use a UPS (1500 VA) on my machines. Also, with Octoprint, there's a long discussion thread about printing too fast for the printer USB UART to handle the flow of data. While 8/16 bit control boards work well, they aren't really optimized for high speed data flow coming from the USB port. I haven't seen this improve much with the 32 bit boards either. I keep my print speeds to 40-50mm/s when using Octoprint. Great channel, just subbed!
Thanks! ❤️ We will see printers made in a very different way in the next months: a lot of them will run Klipper natively, with a Raspberry Pi “Compute Module” (even if a clone) attached directly on the printer’s board.
Worked perfectly fine! All blobs are gone. Thanks. I also noticed that the upcoming firmware for the Elegoo Neptune printer (that I have) will have this feature turned off by default. Good job finding this issue!
well done, i hate how the 3d printing community always blames moisture. You on the other hand covered two big solutions to blobs. There is a neat trick in cura that lets you have insane amount of polygons on curves but a single line on straight lines. If you set maximum resolution and travel resolution to an absurd number like 50,000 and then set the lowest maximum deviation number your printer can handle you can get super smooth curves and also have smaller gcode files at the same time because perfectly straight lines end up being a single gcode command instead of several small segments. My Maximum Dev is 0.01mm
Totally! It is true: I had filaments with real moisture… but never with PLA! To make this video I tried to force PLA into being wet: I left 3 meters of PLA submerged in water for a week and I couldn’t get it to bubble. What you see in the video is TPU, that I also left in the water to get the footage I needed… Moisture in filament is real - but it is not so common as people think.
I don’t run a 3D Print farm - but I am sure people can squeeze a LOT of performance and quality when you have to print A BUNCH of copies of the same part - it certainly justifies tuning every slicing parameter! You mention a nice trick - need to make some tests to see if that’s something without side effects. My profiles are tuned for laziness 🤣 I usually print one part and done 😜
@@GeekDetour haha don't get me wrong i also print one thing and done but usually its something for a tool or around the house where i want tolerances to be very tight and i don't want to think about what kind of clearance i need. By having a high poly count i don't need to worry about my holes being "octagons" eating away at my hole.
@@GeekDetour the metallic silk pla can actually absorb moisture not sure what in it is hygroscopic but yeah tpu, nylon, abs, and ever so slightly petg but pure PLA doesn't really absorb water in my experience also.
Its the standard response that is endlessly parroted by reddit dullards and has completely ruined google/internet searches for any viable solutions to common problems.
Mestre Everson, posso estar errado mas acredito que pelo nome e sotaque vc é Brasileiro certo? Não me leve a mal mas digo posso estar errado pois seu conteúdo de fato é de primeirissima qualidade e seu inglês é irretocável! 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 Não sei como não o conhecia antes! Estando a anos no mundo da impressão 3D e mundo maker! Que prazer ver um conteúdo com tanta qualidade! Parabéns!
Poxa, caro Paulo, muito obrigado pelo carinho e encorajamento ❤️ Tem muito brasileiro mandando super bem no universo da Impressão 3D. Lá no grupo Brasileiro do Face, eu fico embasbacado com os caras que modelam, imprimem em resina e pintam num nível super internacional. Cara, não vou mentir: fazer as coisas no Brasil não é fácil. Eu jamais estaria fazendo este canal se não estivesse vivendo na Espanha - fiz várias reviews de impressoras que chegaram em 1 semana pelo correio. No Brasil ia ficar tudo preso em Santos. Admiro imensamente quem se destaca vivendo no Brasil, porque é inegavelmente mais difícil. E bora pra frente porque talento muitos irmãos tem de sobra!
@@GeekDetour claro que temos muita gente boa! Inclusive um dos Studios mais fodas em resina pra mim é o Loot Studio que é de Belo Horizonte, minha cidade natal! Sim o custo Brasil dificulta muita coisa, como as coisas são mais fáceis ai fora! Sou louco com uma impressora de cerâmica (whasp) que só tem na Europa! Mas em fim… Continue com este trabalho sensacional e conte comigo! Sei que não é fácil, ja tentei fazer algo por várias vezes! E da pra ver nas datas de postagem dos seus videos que sua jornada é de longas datas! Parabéns pela resiliência! Grande abraço!
good on ya man. you actually summed this up very well. went from logical step to logical step. this is what gives engineers a chub. thank you sir. after all the noise & chaos of history because of everybody going through this, your video being a final capstone has enormous value. here, have my subscription. and once again - thank you. and +1 for the reference to cnccccc kitchen
Oh, thank you so much! My wife speaks French 🤗 - I don’t… which is something I will fix one day - French is such a beautiful language! I am from Brazil, but we live in Spain for many years now. People from my country ask me why I make this channel in English - the reason is exactly this: so many people speak (or can at least read) English, and it makes the world a place where we all can exchange nice ideas. Thanks for watching my videos! ❤️
i have a sunlu s8 and an s8 plus. the s8 has the blob problem you describe but the s8 plus does not. Interesting if shutting off power loss recovery fixes this problem.
I had a similar issue earlier, and I thought it was the power-loss recovery feature on my Printer. Turns out that because I went for a cheaper printer with Klipper, my Sovol SV07 Plus does not come with that feature. What fixed it for me was switching the setting in Cura from hide seam to smart seam, and now my prints come out much more smooth.
Hi! Vase mode is just the perfect example because it doesn’t even have a seam - it should be perfectly smooth. But the Blob problem will manifest even on regular prints with walls and infill - if you print from an SDCard, high poly model and you have Power-loss Recovery enabled on Marlin, it usually appears.
Glad I could help! ❤️ Oh, if you are using the SDCard that came with your printer, I suggest buying a Class 10 card from Samsung or SanDisk - 32GB is more than enough. The cards that come with the printers are usually VERY slow.
@@GeekDetour Thank you again for being so helpful! I am using the one that came with my Neptune 3 Pro, I will purchase one of the ones you recommended. I live in a small town and we get power outages once in a while so I didn't want to disable it. I'm glad formatting the SD Card worked. You are awesome!
Hi! So, right after I made this video, we got a mortgage to buy a house - in a rural area… oh boy… the power interruptions are insane. Usually, one, two seconds. Sometimes many minutes. The problem is that if the interruption is longer than a minute, the heated bed gets cold and the parts pop out… So PowerLoss Recovery is still useless when that happens. I bought a 1kW UPS (a battery no-break). This was the only really effective way for me to not lose my prints here.
@@GeekDetour I live in a small Amish Town, we have horse & buggies still here in town. The power recovery saved my print and I was surprised, that's why I didn't want to disable it. If it it's to the point I may need a 1KW UPS, I will get one. Thanks!
This is my first time watching one of your videos. You do a FANTASTIC job of making them engaging and informative. You are one of the best content creators on RUclips. Hands down. Well done.
Thank you Mickael! The solution makes sense if you print from the SDCard. If you print through OctoPrint or Klipper, then it doesn’t matter because Power-loss Recovery does nothing already in those circumstances. If you have blobs printing from OctoPrint, then the problem is something else 😃
Well done, this helped and cured the annoying problem. The CNC Kitchen video helped for the 8-Bit board but didn't on the 32-Bit board, your solution is spot on. Thanks.
Very impressed with your explanations. I was never into downvoting, but so many of those "techy" youtubers are here only for money, often just talking shit. Great video, you deserve all the support.
Worth a shot; I've been running constant stringing tests, and they keep coming out blobby, incredibly flawed, and stringy; when a setting helped it just replaced the whispiness with periodic full extrusions of string coming a couple mm off the test part. Tried a bunch of stuff at this point; calibrating the PID, calibrating the extruder, retraction settings, coast settings, wipe settings, speed. The general quality of my prints has improved, but not the stringing. This one seems worth a shot; they're certainly rather small rounded parts, and as much as reducing the print speed helped it didn't really get rid of the problem, it was just the one that gave me the full extrusion strings instead of the whispiness. Edit: this one did the trick! I mean, there are still adjustments to make to clean up the printing quality, but now it's normal whispy stringing rather than blobby and misshapen parts.
Dude. Like one of the best pro tips ever. I figured this out kind of early on but didn't realize how key it was. People have such a hard time with printers, and I admit they are tricky contraptions but disabling this just for speed sake helped me I guess a lot more than I realized.
Wow, thank you! ❤️ Genius? I would say so if I had discovered the issue myself. There were a couple of videos discussing the issue before I did mine, but none had attracted the deserved attention. I knew more people had to know about the side effects of the PowerLoss Recovery Feature because ALL printers were coming with that enabled - and people all over the forums were posting photos of their bad prints, and NO ONE was pointing in the right direction. I am glad I invested a good amount of time to make this one - and I cannot be happier with the repercussion. A few printer manufacturers sent me emails the very same week saying they would start shipping their printers with the option, but disabled. That was so good! 🤗
I disable the recovery feature becasue A) I use Octoprint and B) the entire setup is on a large UPS (spoils of decom'ing a data center). Even a small one you can get from Amazon for around $150 will keep you going through most outages.
After so much troubleshooting with my settings and then I find this! I am so happy and frustrated at the same time. I can't wait to try this. I'll post a update when I do.
Your editing is so good and the way you talk about the topic makes it so interesting, i dont own a 3d printer or have seen any videos about it before but this video was just so entertaining!
I have literally watched my printer behaving like this. It would stop for a few seconds and ooze a blob. I am working with very high Polly models and don't see any blobs on low poly. Thanks for putting this video out. I will definitely try disabling this setting. I thought maybe it was just a quirk of tpu printing that couldn't get tuned out.
Hi! 👋 I am pretty sure it will fix it. Please tell me later how it went! Oh, I need to tell you: if you are using the SDCard that came with your printer, it would be good if you instead buy a fast SDCard from a Reputable brand, from a trustable store (Amazon usually sells original cards). Samsung, SanDisk, Sony, Lexar… these are my personal favorites. Class 10, U1 or U3… 8GB or 16GB are more than enough for 3D Printing 👍 The cards that come with the printer can sometimes cause blobs because they are far cheaper and slower.
OMG. The difference in quality is night and day with the setting off. Same g code, same filament, same printer. The seam on the first print with the setting on was horrendous. 6x4 mm wide. On the new print with the setting off, the seam is barely visible. 1x2 mm wide. I did also switch to a better quality SD card. The overall the print quality is more consistent. Thanks for posting this video. It has been more useful than any other videos I've come across pertaining to this issue. This is the last hurdle I had to print perfect tpu. And way closer to nailing down the settings for fpla+. Thanks!
I haven't even printed in vase mode yet, but your way of explaining how and why was wonderful! Very insightful and engaging to watch. You just got a new subscriber!
Might also consider after disabling the "power loss interruption" feature supplying power to your 3d printer through a computer UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply - e.g. battery system to keep delivering stable power to your PC should you experience a brownout or power loss). Benefits as you stated (fewer writes to SD card) as well as limiting power surges and keeping the printer running (at least for a while) should the power be interrupted. Tnx for the research and explanation.
the algorithm calculate the continuously movement in top speed requires Gcodes are loaded in a queue fast enough. If they are broken up, the acceleration curve will go to zero then climb back up to the top speed for the next Gcode. Ideally, for a perfect circular shape, the extruder should never drop from top speed. If it stops to zero velocity , the the hot filament is still dragging out by gravity and pressure inside of the chamber, hence the stacking of the extra material. Depends on the printing material, use the retraction action might help a little but this needs some experiment to see the speed of the flow and timing in which the retraction needs to engage before the extruder velocity becomes zero. The main reason for the read operation to stop is writing to flash takes a long time, it is a blocking call inside of the firmware, needs to wait for SD card controller to complete write operation then proceed to read. (not sure about SD card spec, but NAND flash write operation needs to erase before write for each block, and SD card is usually RAM less, that means the entire operation needs to be complete on NAND itself, instead of faster SRAM.)
wow. I have been on 3 different 3d printing forums and nobody could help me with this. I eventually figured out it was only when it was running on somewhat unstable power (i.e generator) so I tried 2 different power surge protectors which narrowed it down to only printing the blobs in small sections, but the recovery mode makes sense with my situation and I will have to give that a try!
I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro and I couldn't print in vase mode, but with your tutorial I managed to solve what was happening and I'm happy! Thanks very much buddy!
Buy an Elegoo Neptune 3, Filament Printer: geni.us/Neptune3
Review: ruclips.net/video/4sGHgttMWLo/видео.html
Elegoo 3D Printers on Amazon: geni.us/VCDGVD3
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Better yet, stop buying pre built garbage and build your own and you’ll understand the mechanics and probably build a better machine.
There must have been a firmware update to the Neptune 3 printers since you make this video. I just got the Neptune 3 plus and to turn off “Power-loss Recovery” before you print go to "Settings" then "Advanced Settings". You can also turn it off while printing under "Settings" button on the printing page.
@@glennedward2201Can you recommend one I can build myself?
😊😊😊
Your videos are so well done and interesting.
Just thought I would tell you!
Thanks for the tips! 😊
By the way, Everson. Did you know that Jesus Christ died on the Cross for your sins? And He did so because He loves you very very much! And in fact, He made you! With His hands he formed you. For it is written: "And the LORD God formed man of the dust of the ground, and breathed into his nostrils the breath of life; and man became a living soul."
So never think that your life is meaningless or does not have a purpose!
Because it in fact has a very very GREAT purpose!
And that purpose is to know and understand our Creator.
You should read the Holy Bible! Possibly starting with the Book of Matthew (or John). Genesis is also a great start!
But the New Testament tells us what God's goal is for mankind, which is for us to be saved!
For the wages of sin is death; but the gift of God is eternal life through Jesus Christ our Lord.
There is a lot of peace in knowing God.
I hope that you come to know Him.
God bless you, Everson.
"And there is salvation in no one else, for there is no other name under heaven given among men by which we must be saved." Acts 4:12
I don't own any 3D printer or had any project on it, but I think in this world there's some people who are frustrated with these kind of problem but had no clue about it but thanks to you they found the solution! Great video!
Thanks!!! 🤗
OMG! Only now I noticed you made a donation without even having a 3D Printer! This was beautifully unexpected - thank you for the support! 🤯
Money
Money
If they wanted to find a solution they could find it on Google. This guy made this video not out of charity, he's earning money from it.
I don't even own a 3D printer, but your way of explanation bought me. Nice job
Wow! That makes me extremely happy! ha ha ha Thanks!
I just clicked on the video being 100% sure that this comment would be on top.
Same lol
Same here :)
Lol we ain't mad scientists haha
This took me almost 2 weeks to figure out when I first started printing and was my exact problem. Glad this video has 2 million views so its easy for others to find.
Another option would be to use arcs instead of lots of little segments. That would decrease the amount of gcode needed in any given time period significantly, to the point that you could probably print that circular object with 2 lines of g-code per perimeter, one for the circle, and one to move the nozzle to the next starting point. Arcs still aren't well implemented by slicers from what I've seen, but they're getting better. I think biggest issue might be that most models are distributed in STL files which, as mentioned, don't have any curves so slicers need to attempt to figure out what's supposed to be a curve and what isn't. I think STEP files can do curves, so perhaps people should start using those more.
Your comment is SPOT ON! But firmware also needs to get better: ARC was not properly implemented for bed-level compensation: if you have a big arc, it seems only the edges would go up or down to follow the mesh… height changes that should occur in the middle were not applied at all…
But the future is bright 😃 For CAD models, step format must be supported for more slicers too: it seems only the PrusaSlicer Beta support them now.
@@GeekDetour Hmm, that's not great. I could have sworn STEP was more widely supported than that. Well, that explains why hardly anyone uses it, then.
It has been a bugbear of mine for ages that STL files are just inadequate for high-quality models. I think it started because it's an easy format to parse, so early slicers used it and it became the de-facto standard. PrusaSlicer does now import STEP files, but it polygonizes them before slicing, so it amounts to the same thing. A G-code command for b-splines already exists (G5), and I'm sure that plane/b-rep surface intersection is mathematically viable. I know slicing is a very difficult task full of corner-cases, so even if it just uses b-splines for the outer surface, that would be a big quality improvement.
plus if you're making a really curvy object you can also probably try and use splines for that
I've been using Arc Welder program / plugin. I had to update the firmware on my printer to support this but at the end the moves are certainly smoother!
I had this issue on my Elegoo N3Pro from one print job to another, same file, same filament same everything.
Thanks to this video I changed out the cheap SD card which came with the printer for another sub-32 GB FAT32 SanDisk SD Card and voila - zero blobbing.
No power recovery control needed to be turned off to get back great print quality.
Thanks for telling me this! I was honestly in doubt if it was useful to mention other causes - the cheap SDCards, cheap/long USB Cable… I am happy it helped you 🤗❤️👍
OMG! This one took me a long time to figure out and make an “accessible” video about it 😅
I would love to have some feedback!
In Cura printer settings -> Start G-Code : M413 S0 ; Disabled Resume after Power loss
Hey, I am changing to a Octopus board and I decided to use Klipper. From what I understand how Klipper works, the power loss recovery shouldnt be problematic here. What do you think?
I really liked the whiteboard explanation. Very effective.
This is the first video I watch on your channel and is... amazing! I'm sure that your content must be great after this. Thanks for sharing good quality videos!
This is the first time you've popped into my feed and I subscribed immediately. Great video!
Very clear and concise explanation! I ran into this issue when printing high-poly models off the SD card, but when I got OctoPrint setup the issue went away altogether. I always assumed OctoPrint was faster than my printer when processing GCODE commands, but I think that it must have been a crappy SD card. Fantastic video, and I'm sure it will help many people new to 3D printing.
Thanks Adam! Very kind words! 🤗
Octoprint doesn't really process the gcode, it just buffers it to the printer.
@@alanb76 you're right, though there are pre-processor plugins like Arc Welder and Octolapse that modify the geode before it gets sent off to the printer.
I have had this problem on $200-$2000 printers and have never seen as good of an explanation as you just gave good sir! Thank you so much for the advice, definitely going to try this. You just gained a new sub!
I can't believe I was about to give up on silk filament until I found your video after I read a Reddit post about the side effects on printing quality of this power off recovery feature that is turned on from factory. I turned it off using your gcodes and it worked. Thanks!!!!
I've been struggling with blob issues in my prints for the last week or so and only a couple of days ago did I manage to figure out it was due to Octoprint not being able to keep up with filling a command buffer for my Prusa Mini after upgrading to FW 5.1.2 and enabling Input Shaper for much faster print speeds.
While the root cause of my issue is not the same as yours, the underlying mechanics are pretty much the same. Had I seen your video a week ago instead of getting completely irrelevant answers on forums (wet filament, overhangs???, etc.) I could have saved tons of time!
You did such a great job explaining the whole concept and even touched in my exact issue in your conclusion - I'll try optimizing my Octoprint setup for speed and stable connectivity and see if I manage to get better results!
Really glad I came across your video, i'll definitely link it in all of my forum posts as the practical answer to my issues!
Hi there! Oh, I am so glad you figured out the problem with your printer - maybe just using a higher bitrate on the serial connection would help too… but that depends on the specifics of every board and what is supported. I used to love OctoPrint… but I recently got into an insane Rabbit hole about print artifacts and I could see differences between printing from the SDCard and from OctoPrint… (which gets just a tidy bit of extra artifacts)… I am moving all my printers to Klipper this year.
I am so glad you liked the video - welcome to the channel! This year I’ll dive into some crazy stuff about what makes a print really smooth or not - so, stick around! 🤗
@@GeekDetour Interesting idea about bumping up the bit rate of the serial connection of the Octoprint, I'll have to look into it!
Currently I'm planning on giving the PrusaLink a shot as a replacement for Octoprint since to my understanding PrusaLink loads the gcode from my computer to the printer directly so it's comparable to running it from the SD Card.
I'll have to take a look though!
In any case, really looking forward to see what else you have planned, if it's even half as good as this video - I'll definitely enjoy it!
I don't even know anything about 3D printing or have ever dabbled in printing myself.. but I can still confidently say this was a very informative and concise video! Earned a sub from a first time viewer with this video.
Thanks Logan! Welcome to the channel!!
Get a 3D printer they are fun
The timelapse is incredible! I especially like the shot with the purple lighting. Could be a great screensaver! You have another subscriber, thanks for the interesting upload!
Thanks! I am glad you liked it - that timelapse video took way more time to make than I want to admit. Very few people watched it yet, though 🤣
People looking for the TimeLapse: ruclips.net/video/pMK1nL0LGG0/видео.html
One of the best produced 3DP videos I’ve seen. Bravo.
Oh, that's very sweet! Thanks!
Not sure why I was recommended this video but your energy and enthusiasm explaining this kept my attention!
Ah, that is so sweet - thank you! I think the RUclips algorithm knows you would enjoy using a 3D Printer 😄👍
My guess at 0:40 in. Resume print in power failure was enabled causing the printer to pause for a split second as it writes the position back to the SD card
Worked on original Ender-3, prints look much cleaner. The printer is now actually usable for professional use and quality parts. Thank you!
Just got my ender 3 for under 200 and I've never been more pleased. Finally able to get into 3d printing
Will try it on my ender 3 pro tomorrow cant wait
Thanks for the video. Professional machinist here going to get my first printer soon, still learning about printer hardware, drivers etc, have to rewind my brain quite a bit to my older cnc machines as it helps me get into printer mindset as they are pretty similar in terms of some similar issues compared to the power of my new machining centers. Drip feeding millions of lines of code into one of my older vertical machining centers from 1989 with an older fanuc control presents similar issues on occasion to this. Thanks for the great content!!!
Wow! I am glad you enjoyed the video - it is an “advanced/corner-case” topic and I wanted to make it deep enough, but easy to understand. You seem to know your stuff, so, I am relieved the video still looks interesting for technical people! 😂
@@GeekDetour haha, I know a bit about machining, I have run my own precision fab shop for twelve years now and worked in a few different industries prior. I have a lot of older nc equipment and specialize in oddball robotic integration and product development for many industries. Oddly I have been supplying parts FOR really high end 3D printer manufacturers for the past decade. I know a lot about metal printing from powder and additive near net in aerospace alloys, but very, very little about common 3d printers that don't cost $200k. I have much to learn! Been really enjoying your videos
It looks fascinating! Of course, hobby printers are a completely different world - muuuuuch simpler, and yet, because of the low-price components, the quality of the results can vary A LOT. And getting the best out of these machines sometimes require a lot of tweaking. You will certainly have fun! It is crazy to have mini-factories at home! Eventually, even metal powder prints will arrive at our homes!
Oi Everson! Excelente vídeo! Uma boa alternativa para imprimir peças com alta quantidade de polígonos e sem a necessidade de desabilitar o power loss recovery é o pluguin Arc Welder(tem no cura). O que ele faz é aproximar uma série de pontos no perímetro da sua peça para um arco, o que gera um gcode muito menor, uma vez que cada arco é formado por apenas 3 pontos e pode percorrer vários milímetros. Vale a pena explorar, uma vez que da tempo pro buffer da impressora carregar os próximos pontos e também salvar a posição necessária para o recovery.
Olá Murillo! Você tem toda razão. Eu já tinha usado Arc Welder recentemente - e de fato a Neptune 3 veio com suporte para comandos de arcos. Tudo funcionou perfeito e sem blobs mesmo com o Power-loss Recovery habilitado. Mas nem toda impressora suporta isso, e também só conheço o plugin pro Cura. A dica é boa, funciona e merece um vídeo sobre isso.
@@GeekDetour Everson boa tarde, tudo bem? não entendi como fazer a instalação dos arquivos.
Why is this video sped up?
Put it at 0.75
I had similar issue where my print was perfectly fine until it gets to a very narrow point where path is very short before moving onto the next movement and all of the sudden I had blobs on two specific corners of the print. Glad to know that it might just be a ram shortage issue.
Amazing that you figured this out!
I print certain "standard" pieces for my business, and most of them are mostly "cylindrical".
The real question is, why don't slicers and 3d printers support g2-g3 movements. Makes the code incredibly lighter, and leaves the interpolation to the controller.
I've tried using a plugin called ArcWelder, but it mostly messes up the code for some reason.
Nope, first, thanks for the donation. NOW, let’s talk about Arc Welder: it works! If your printer is not printing it well, you should look into updated versions of the firmware for your printer. I was happily surprised that the Neptune 3 (that I show in the video) had ARC support from factory and indeed it printed this test piece perfectly (even with Power-loss Recovery activated, no Blobs!). My older printer, a Frankenstein Ender 3 (highly modified) doesn’t print ARCs well - it is my fault because I enabled it and compiled the firmware very shortly after ARC was introduced in Marlin… I am sure it I get a newer version of Marlin, adjust for my FrankEnder and compile it again, it would make ARCs nice now. Yeah! G2 and G3 are the future for curves… I want to see it implemented on all slicers without plugins. But we are in a transition period. A Lot of printers still don’t have it.
@@GeekDetour any chance of a video for the new g2 and g3 feature on the latest prusa version released just a few days ago? Perhaps a little overview on the subject is in order? Thank you in advance sir!
I don't have this problem with my printer but on a whim I decided to click the video and I just LOVE how expressive you are! It glues me to my seat in the same way any good speaker does. Keep making awesome videos man, I'm definitely sticking around for them!
Thanks Henry! I am super happy you enjoyed it - and my crazy expressiveness 😁
Dude. You make next level content. Insanely informative. I can tell you are a highly intelligent individual and you do an EXCELLENT job at proportioning your information and explanations so it's digestible without being boring. 10/10
Oh man… 🤗 I really appreciated your kind words! I love making this type of content - I hope the channel grows enough to be financially viable. Videos like this, right now, are almost a mistake 🤑🤣 Oh, we moved to a house that we bought, with space for a bigger workshop - I am finally back to making more videos, so, subscribe!
Thank You, A novice printer here. I wanted to print some items in Silk PLA and have spent a week attempting to print with no success. I watched videos and read articles on how to set up the slicer to no avail. I had watched your video and didn't realize what I was seeing. I finally realized that the blobs were not random and then aha your video opened the heavens.
Hey! That’s so cool ❤️ Which printer is yours? Could you fix it?
@@GeekDetour Yes with one exception. I am printing a half sphere. Three sides were perfect, one side from bottom to top has slight imperfections. Which makes me think that I may have a fan issue. I print in an enclosure.
I have the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max.
I’ve taken break from printing for too long. I feel encouraged now after watching this to do some printer maintenance and get back to making stuff.
Thank you!
Guess: Pressure in the Bowden tube after switching from the faster infill to the slower perimeters.
Or a too slow retraction when ending the perimeter, so filament still gets pushed out.
Solution: Enable Linear advance, less extreme differences between infill and perimeters and quick retractions.
Edit: I was wrong, my suggestions fall into the "randomized seam" category.
To anyone out here that still has this problem even when following the instructions in this video (thank you for the video btw), try disabling your webcam. The camera can cause this for two reasons:
1. It stops to take a picture for a timelapse (the nozzle oozes)
2. The webcam steals resources (CPU) causing your server to stall for a while (stalling means no commands are parsed to your printer)
I struggled with this for quite a bit.
Update: I don't know what changed but since I wrote this comment I can print non issue with the webcam stream enabled. Maybe it has something to do with me tweaking the buffers in the firmware for my SKR board, or the cura 5.3 update. I can't be sure what fixed it but it works.
Making Timelapses usually is not nice for the piece you are printing. Everytime I make a timelapse, I am more worried of having a beautiful video, knowing the printed part will be less then ideal.
I am not a creator but I like the peace of mind webcam support offers. I mean you can watch your print remotely (you can also run failure detecting tools such as octoeverywhere's gadget or obico). I have ordered a cheap ip cam online just for this reason.
Well this is oddly satisfying.
I don't own a 3D printer, have no plans to, but I love this kind of problem-solving. Your delivery is really interesting, and the whiteboard was fun
Thank you Erin! Wow, when I made the video I was so sure only people that owns 3D Printers would enjoy watching it 🤣
Shut up, Erin!
@@BeeEatingOrchid that was uncalled for? Are you OK?
@@GeekDetour I like videos on things that are outside my usual hobbies or expertise, maybe it's why I used to turn up at random uni lectures back in the 90s. Though I love the idea of owning a 3D printer I know I probably won't in the next 5 years, but it's worth getting to a little about the work that's happened and is happening to bring a technology into common use. Going to show this to dad, he was a precision manufacturing engineer up until around 2003. He'll love it
I'm not even familiar with this this hobby, but your way of speaking, and your great charisma kept me watching!
Wow, thank you! I have no idea why the algorithm is suggesting this weird video outside of the typical 3D Printing hobby audience 😄
Why is this the absolute best video i have ever found on youtube. Thank you!!!!!
Thanks! ❤️👍
I hope Elegoo is watching so they can put YOUR GCODE in there next firmware update. Thanks for the video and for YOUR GCODE
Hi Jim! Thanks! Well, my GCode doesn’t do anything other than disable Power-loss Recovery. The only change that would be very nice is to be able to disable (or enable) it on the LCD UI.
Power-loss Recovery has been a strong marketing selling point. I don’t know how much people really benefit from it…
What I want to see in future printers is the hardware implementation that detects the power-loss, but has Capacitors to keep the board enough time to - then - save a checkpoint and turn off.
All printers should have. If this video helps this to become a reality, I’LL be super happy!
Awesome video! I’m new to 3D printing and it feels like there’s a new hiccup with every other print, so this really helps. The problem solving has been quite fun, but it’s nice being able to discover content like this- easing future headaches lol
Now, If I may: as a sound geek, I would gently suggest an edit to your audio EQ. Namely lowering the Gain on your mic to minimize the clasping noises of the mouth (or if your gain is already low, I would point to using a low-pass filter), and a slight high-pass filter to lower the sibilance/ “S” noises. Nothing egregious, however. Your audio is more than passable as it is
Hi Jason! Thanks! The best part of 3D Printing is definitely the never-ending journey of learning.
Sound is another never-ending journey. Your comments are nice (and gentle, thanks!) Every person will Equalize on a very different taste. And the perception of a “good sound” will change a lot too depending on where the video is watched: mobile phone without headphones, in-ear headphones, headphones… and some headphones are very bass-heavy, others are more neutral… some lower-cost phones are more muffled. And there are TVs and Home Theaters (that if you go very “Pod-Casty Bass”, it sound very Boomy on Home-Theaters….
My audio chain has all you can imagine: de-hiss, compressor, too-low frequency cut… I hear the videos in many devices, a few headphones, on the living room - and I might favor a more aggressive high because it favors clarity of speech. A TV Broadcast audio engineer would probably change it a lot, but, then… he would use different microphones as well… Audio is infinite - just like 3D Printing 😄
I've never used a 3D printer and I only have the faintest idea of how it works, but I have a technical (software developing) background. Your video is very simple and well explained and made me understand the problem, causes and solutions perfectly. So congratulations on making such a great video =D
Oh, thanks!!! That’s very sweet! Let me tell you: don’t buy a 3D Printer!!! 😂 It is INCREDIBLY ADDICTIVE! There are lots of tiny details to learn and master - it is a fascinating journey! Buy one! I mean, don’t! You’ve been warned 🤣
You're such a good presenter holy crap you deserve a television show
Oh! That was lovely 🥰 Thanks!!!!
I just sent someone this video to explain this problem, so thank you for making it! I did find one more issue that could affect this. I was seeing this exact problem on my Neptune 2, but it started happening only after using my printer for a few months, despite me mostly printing high-poly vase mode prints. For me, it turned out that it was the SD Card. The ones that ship with the Neptune 2 specifically -- though likely a lot of other printers as well -- are pretty low quality. I replaced the card with a new brand name card, did not change any settings, and have been printing the same models for about a year now with no issues. As you mentioned at the end of the video, NAND flash does dies eventually, so replacing the card when see such issues is a good idea, since it's likely more issues will start happening soon anyway.
Hey, I am glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for sharing it with other users! 🤗 True: the cards that come with printers are far from great!
Bro, why do you not have more subscribers?? This video was super well done!
Thanks!!! It is easy to explain: my channel was born around iPhone/iPad/Mac tips and tricks - it was growing steadily up to 60k subscribers. Then I bought a 3D Printer and my mind was hijacked into “OMG! I need to be a Maker!” (it is more complex than that, but it sumarizes it well). Changing what your YT channel is about is a BIG No-no for the algorithm. Every video I launched I lost 500 subs. The algorithm doesn’t know who to show your video to… everything gets messed up, people that used to love your content now don’t like your new content.
After a very slow 2 years, it seems things are starting to grow normal on the new direction. Thanks for asking! Very kind! 🤗
@@GeekDetour I guess the Al Gore Rhythm works now. Good topic, perfect video editing and that ending is brilliant. Good video all the way through. Subbed for more.
Thanks guys! Welcome to the channel! I cannot promise all videos will be breathtaking, but I try 😆
this guy sounds like he's talking in 1.5 speed
excellent tips! 👏😎
Hi Marsgizmo! Thanks man! You just made my day 🤗❤️👍
@@GeekDetour keep making the videos, they are great! 😉
Ahhh the problem I’ve been trying to solve for weeks, is as simple as Turing off my Prusa’s power-loss recovery setting
How helpful of RUclips today, and great video!
Thanks! I am happy my video helped you!
Really like that you made this video more fun than most others. Great delivery, and like that you set the tone of topic real well. you should be proud of your approach here
Thank you so much @damen238 for the great encouragement and kindness. Yes, I am super proud of this video, for many reasons: when I made it there was very little information about this issue and all the major manufacturers were just shipping printers with the feature enabled by default, and they were unaware of drawbacks in print quality. On the forums and groups we had constant posts of people scratching their heads… and the guessing was all over the place. Two days after I published the Video, Elegoo wrote me an email saying they would include a menu option to turn it off/on easily - and they did! Creality also did the same. Finally, this video is one of the most watched technical videos about 3D Printing, and the community wrote mostly kind and grateful comments here. I cannot ask for more! ❤️😄
Alternative is to use arch welder to create curves and use that in G-code instead of simple lines generated by slicers.
A G-core for one layer of a circle can be written in 1 (ONE) line like that, while a polyline needs thousands for it to make it smooth...
Yeah! It works. I tested and it was even supported on the Neptune 3 that I used in the video. But I don’t like the fact that curves are not really on the STL file itself - it will make sense when/if we start printing from STEP files, that would have the original curved geometry information
Also, compiling a firmware with arc support and using something like "arc welder" to substitute multitude of small segments into gcode arcs helps a lot.
Funny arc interpolation has been in real CNC control like Linux CNC for ever... Good printer firmwares are catching up.
Absolutely true! The Neptune 3 that I used in this video already came with ARC support and it indeed makes it work fine even with the Powerloss Recovery activated. BUT the only viable Slicer to use it is Cura with “Arc Welder” plug-in. In a near future most printers will be running ARCs 👍
I use the Arc Welder plugin for Octoprint, which will work with any slicer. Every time I upload a file it automatically generates an arc welded version and I just select that file to print instead if it's anything circle-heavy. With certain models the file will often end up at least 50% smaller.
Also it's trivial to add this (and lots of other features, assuming you've got a chip with enough memory) even if the manufacturer didn't think to include it by building your own firmware. Marlin is fairly simple to compile and upgrade on newer boards with SD card bootloaders so you can do lots of customization and keep up with new features even on old hardware that didn't ship with it in the original firmware config.
@@ailivac With gyroid infill, arc welder consistently gets it down to about 60% of the size, even without the model having lots of circles. As some of the more curved infill patterns become more popular, I wonder if it'll become commonplace for slicers to incorporate arc support
@@bandana_girl6507 Yes, the gcode is more compact, the instruction rate is higher though and the board actually has to do more calculations, as there is no way to make a smooth circular movement with the most popular kinematic designs. It just gets translated into a series of linear movements, the exact same way the slicer does this, just on the fly.
It helps if your SD card is too slow (which honestly is basically impossible), but it doesn't help at all if you are running into instruction limits (which is very possible).
The same is true with LinuxCNC, but there it is a bit different, as the instruction rates are distributed differently between the components.
To be perfectly honest: monolithic firmware like marlin has been a great tool to bring the community forward, but by now, it is simply outdated.
Wow! Excellent info here!
I had this exact issue when trying vase mode for the first time, but I already figured it out before watching this video. Very entertaining presentation though!
Thank you 🤗 🥰
Finally, a channel fitting for me.
I’m such a geek I have stats for nerds on.
Oh, please, Geeks are royalty here 🤣❤️🥂 Welcome to the channel, I am glad you liked it! Merry Christmas geek Dude 🎁🎄
@@GeekDetour i am surprised that you replied, and I am also surprised I found out 7 months late
Set this vid on 0.75x so it seems more normal
Cara, quando eu comprei a minha Ender 3 V2, eu estava exatamente com esse problema. Tinha tentado vários ajustes recomendados e o rasgo continuava aparecendo muito mais proeminente do que o esperado. Aí eu reparei exatamente isso: o problema era a pausa entre cada camada. Depois de cavar MUITO na internet, eu finalmente achei essa sua mesma solução. Coloquei o M413 S0 no final do GCode de início e tudo se resolveu.
O seu vídeo tinha que ter aparecido antes para mim! Eu teria sofrido bem menos, hehe.
Oi Amigo, tenho uma Ender 3 Pro, você só colocou a linha: M413 S0 no final do GCODE (starting script) correto? Obrigado!
@@lmoraisvieira isso mesmo!
Is it just me or is his voice very pleasing to hear? Are you a Speaker?
Oh, thank you! ❤️ Nope! I never made voice-over work. Some friends here said they would like to listen to audiobooks with my voice - I feel flattered! But it is a struggle: English is not my native language and I make lots of silly mistakes.
Yes, I had octoprint cause blobs or hesitations when it was printing. It was caused by a plugin that checked the raspberry pi's system resources. I removed the plugin and it worked fine after that. I also had a USB cable cause a similar issue. I went to a braided cable and the problem went away. So far I have no experienced the issue caused by power loss recovery being enabled.
This was a good video, I quite enjoyed it.
I read your comment many days ago - just having time to answer it today 😅 Thanks! We used to have quite hot discussions about if OctoPrint would give the same quality as the SDCard… I LOVE OctoPrint, but I compared MANY times and I always found tiny defects here and there, subtle irregularities. It was always “passable”, but yeah, OctoPrint via serial doesn’t work as smooth as printing from the SDCard. Anyways, I feel that OctoPrint might die sooner or later - Klipper is taking all printers by storm. For many reasons.
the threads you pulled to reach this conclusion is just beyond my comprehension, this happened to me just a day from seeing this video, fixed instantly
Thank you very much! I am so happy it helped you to print better! 🤗❤️
I'm not even into the world of 3d printing but this was a very informative and well-edited video congrats
Thank you so much!!! 😄
Great video! I also use a UPS (1500 VA) on my machines. Also, with Octoprint, there's a long discussion thread about printing too fast for the printer USB UART to handle the flow of data. While 8/16 bit control boards work well, they aren't really optimized for high speed data flow coming from the USB port. I haven't seen this improve much with the 32 bit boards either. I keep my print speeds to 40-50mm/s when using Octoprint. Great channel, just subbed!
Thanks! ❤️ We will see printers made in a very different way in the next months: a lot of them will run Klipper natively, with a Raspberry Pi “Compute Module” (even if a clone) attached directly on the printer’s board.
Worked perfectly fine! All blobs are gone. Thanks. I also noticed that the upcoming firmware for the Elegoo Neptune printer (that I have) will have this feature turned off by default. Good job finding this issue!
I am really happy it helped you! That’s great! Thanks 🤗
Dude THANK YOU!!! You were the ONLY person online that actually helped, you're a legend man 🙏
Wow! Thanks! 🤗
well done, i hate how the 3d printing community always blames moisture. You on the other hand covered two big solutions to blobs.
There is a neat trick in cura that lets you have insane amount of polygons on curves but a single line on straight lines. If you set maximum resolution and travel resolution to an absurd number like 50,000 and then set the lowest maximum deviation number your printer can handle you can get super smooth curves and also have smaller gcode files at the same time because perfectly straight lines end up being a single gcode command instead of several small segments. My Maximum Dev is 0.01mm
Totally! It is true: I had filaments with real moisture… but never with PLA!
To make this video I tried to force PLA into being wet: I left 3 meters of PLA submerged in water for a week and I couldn’t get it to bubble. What you see in the video is TPU, that I also left in the water to get the footage I needed… Moisture in filament is real - but it is not so common as people think.
I don’t run a 3D Print farm - but I am sure people can squeeze a LOT of performance and quality when you have to print A BUNCH of copies of the same part - it certainly justifies tuning every slicing parameter!
You mention a nice trick - need to make some tests to see if that’s something without side effects. My profiles are tuned for laziness 🤣 I usually print one part and done 😜
@@GeekDetour haha don't get me wrong i also print one thing and done but usually its something for a tool or around the house where i want tolerances to be very tight and i don't want to think about what kind of clearance i need. By having a high poly count i don't need to worry about my holes being "octagons" eating away at my hole.
@@GeekDetour the metallic silk pla can actually absorb moisture not sure what in it is hygroscopic but yeah tpu, nylon, abs, and ever so slightly petg but pure PLA doesn't really absorb water in my experience also.
Its the standard response that is endlessly parroted by reddit dullards and has completely ruined google/internet searches for any viable solutions to common problems.
Mestre Everson, posso estar errado mas acredito que pelo nome e sotaque vc é Brasileiro certo? Não me leve a mal mas digo posso estar errado pois seu conteúdo de fato é de primeirissima qualidade e seu inglês é irretocável!
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Não sei como não o conhecia antes! Estando a anos no mundo da impressão 3D e mundo maker! Que prazer ver um conteúdo com tanta qualidade! Parabéns!
Eu só desconfiei quando apareceu o screenshot do facebook, em portugues kkkkkk
Poxa, caro Paulo, muito obrigado pelo carinho e encorajamento ❤️ Tem muito brasileiro mandando super bem no universo da Impressão 3D. Lá no grupo Brasileiro do Face, eu fico embasbacado com os caras que modelam, imprimem em resina e pintam num nível super internacional. Cara, não vou mentir: fazer as coisas no Brasil não é fácil. Eu jamais estaria fazendo este canal se não estivesse vivendo na Espanha - fiz várias reviews de impressoras que chegaram em 1 semana pelo correio. No Brasil ia ficar tudo preso em Santos. Admiro imensamente quem se destaca vivendo no Brasil, porque é inegavelmente mais difícil. E bora pra frente porque talento muitos irmãos tem de sobra!
Ha ha ha, valeu Renner!
@@GeekDetour kkkk nao tinha percebido, ganhou outro inscrito.
@@GeekDetour claro que temos muita gente boa! Inclusive um dos Studios mais fodas em resina pra mim é o Loot Studio que é de Belo Horizonte, minha cidade natal! Sim o custo Brasil dificulta muita coisa, como as coisas são mais fáceis ai fora! Sou louco com uma impressora de cerâmica (whasp) que só tem na Europa! Mas em fim… Continue com este trabalho sensacional e conte comigo! Sei que não é fácil, ja tentei fazer algo por várias vezes! E da pra ver nas datas de postagem dos seus videos que sua jornada é de longas datas! Parabéns pela resiliência! Grande abraço!
Thank you for what you do. You are appreciated. You make boring and very technical topics, fun and insightful.
Thank you! You are very kind ❤️ Words like this help more than you think.
That explains everything, thank you for your work
I loved making this video - thanks for the kind donation 🤗
4:45 yayy I guessed it right :)
Video muito bem feito! Qualidade perfeita.❤️
Valeu demais, Marcos! Que legal que você curtiu meu trabalho - bem vindo ao canal!
good on ya man. you actually summed this up very well. went from logical step to logical step. this is what gives engineers a chub. thank you sir. after all the noise & chaos of history because of everybody going through this, your video being a final capstone has enormous value. here, have my subscription. and once again - thank you. and +1 for the reference to cnccccc kitchen
Oh, thanks! Very kind words and I really appreciate them ❤️ Welcome to the channel!
Thank you! Had this issue at work with a new printer but didn't know what caused this. Now the algorithm suggested this video. Great explaination!
Thanks Samuel! I’m happy it helped! The Algorithm knows everything 😬
i dont have 3d printer, i'm french but your voice is so agreable and easy to understand that i cant stop looking your videos lmao
Oh, thank you so much! My wife speaks French 🤗 - I don’t… which is something I will fix one day - French is such a beautiful language! I am from Brazil, but we live in Spain for many years now. People from my country ask me why I make this channel in English - the reason is exactly this: so many people speak (or can at least read) English, and it makes the world a place where we all can exchange nice ideas. Thanks for watching my videos! ❤️
@@GeekDetour yeah and your way of speaking is clear and chill it´s sooo good. French is beautiful but sucks to learn lmao
i have a sunlu s8 and an s8 plus. the s8 has the blob problem you describe but the s8 plus does not. Interesting if shutting off power loss recovery fixes this problem.
Holy heck you have saved so many people so much time, frustration and sanding.
Subscribed!
Ha ha ha, thanks! Oh man… specially PLA… it is hard like glass, sanding takes forever!
I had a similar issue earlier, and I thought it was the power-loss recovery feature on my Printer.
Turns out that because I went for a cheaper printer with Klipper, my Sovol SV07 Plus does not come with that feature. What fixed it for me was switching the setting in Cura from hide seam to smart seam, and now my prints come out much more smooth.
This video you’re only referencing when in vase mode right? Will it help with seams and random seams outside of vase mode?
Hi! Vase mode is just the perfect example because it doesn’t even have a seam - it should be perfectly smooth. But the Blob problem will manifest even on regular prints with walls and infill - if you print from an SDCard, high poly model and you have Power-loss Recovery enabled on Marlin, it usually appears.
I've been waiting years to hear the reason for this!! Nice job!
Yay! I said, "cache!" as soon as I saw the print. I didn't know it was related to the power loss recovery mode. Nicely done
Thank you so much! I had a power outage & couldn't figure out why my prints started doing this! I formatted my SD Card & problem solved.
Glad I could help! ❤️ Oh, if you are using the SDCard that came with your printer, I suggest buying a Class 10 card from Samsung or SanDisk - 32GB is more than enough. The cards that come with the printers are usually VERY slow.
@@GeekDetour Thank you again for being so helpful! I am using the one that came with my Neptune 3 Pro, I will purchase one of the ones you recommended. I live in a small town and we get power outages once in a while so I didn't want to disable it. I'm glad formatting the SD Card worked. You are awesome!
Hi! So, right after I made this video, we got a mortgage to buy a house - in a rural area… oh boy… the power interruptions are insane. Usually, one, two seconds. Sometimes many minutes. The problem is that if the interruption is longer than a minute, the heated bed gets cold and the parts pop out… So PowerLoss Recovery is still useless when that happens. I bought a 1kW UPS (a battery no-break). This was the only really effective way for me to not lose my prints here.
@@GeekDetour I live in a small Amish Town, we have horse & buggies still here in town. The power recovery saved my print and I was surprised, that's why I didn't want to disable it. If it it's to the point I may need a 1KW UPS, I will get one. Thanks!
This is something so cool! A 3D Printer in an Amish town! I picture it and I can’t avoid smiling 😁 Thanks for sharing!
This is my first time watching one of your videos. You do a FANTASTIC job of making them engaging and informative. You are one of the best content creators on RUclips. Hands down. Well done.
Wow, thank you! 🤗❤️ I loved making this video - I invested a LOT of time making it and luckily it paid off!
My pleasure. I can tell you put a great deal of love and care into your content. You deserve the positive feedback.@@GeekDetour
I don't own a 3D printer but I subbed because for some reason you remind me of Guillermo del Toro. Keep on keepin' on!
Ha ha ha, ok! I’ll take it 🤣 Welcome to the channel! ❤️
First time viewer here. Nice solution and equally nicely presented. Will give it a try. Thanks for sharing 👍🏼
Thank you Mickael! The solution makes sense if you print from the SDCard. If you print through OctoPrint or Klipper, then it doesn’t matter because Power-loss Recovery does nothing already in those circumstances. If you have blobs printing from OctoPrint, then the problem is something else 😃
Great explanation. Confirms my theory of why it happens when I have too many files on the SD card.
Probably. I still need to investigate about the amount of files, the length of the filenames, etc…
Well done, this helped and cured the annoying problem. The CNC Kitchen video helped for the 8-Bit board but didn't on the 32-Bit board, your solution is spot on. Thanks.
Glad it helped!!! ❤️
Thanks for explaining who powerless recovery is done. Now I understand why I didn't have it since I use octoprint.
That’s right: printing over serial connection doesn’t use Power-loss Recovery even if it is enabled on firmware. 👍 Merry Christmas Oliver!
Very impressed with your explanations. I was never into downvoting, but so many of those "techy" youtubers are here only for money, often just talking shit. Great video, you deserve all the support.
Worth a shot; I've been running constant stringing tests, and they keep coming out blobby, incredibly flawed, and stringy; when a setting helped it just replaced the whispiness with periodic full extrusions of string coming a couple mm off the test part. Tried a bunch of stuff at this point; calibrating the PID, calibrating the extruder, retraction settings, coast settings, wipe settings, speed. The general quality of my prints has improved, but not the stringing.
This one seems worth a shot; they're certainly rather small rounded parts, and as much as reducing the print speed helped it didn't really get rid of the problem, it was just the one that gave me the full extrusion strings instead of the whispiness.
Edit: this one did the trick! I mean, there are still adjustments to make to clean up the printing quality, but now it's normal whispy stringing rather than blobby and misshapen parts.
I am very happy for you! Thanks for reporting ❤️🤗
Great content on this video! ❤congratulations
Hey 👋 Thank you for the kind words ❤️
Dude. Like one of the best pro tips ever. I figured this out kind of early on but didn't realize how key it was. People have such a hard time with printers, and I admit they are tricky contraptions but disabling this just for speed sake helped me I guess a lot more than I realized.
I’ve never heard someone talk and whisper simultaneously.
Oh, thanks! I can do even better: ruclips.net/video/G5jTgGmD5js/видео.html
@@GeekDetour Legend 😂
You are such a genius! I started watching your one of video and I can't stop now.
Wow, thank you! ❤️ Genius? I would say so if I had discovered the issue myself. There were a couple of videos discussing the issue before I did mine, but none had attracted the deserved attention. I knew more people had to know about the side effects of the PowerLoss Recovery Feature because ALL printers were coming with that enabled - and people all over the forums were posting photos of their bad prints, and NO ONE was pointing in the right direction. I am glad I invested a good amount of time to make this one - and I cannot be happier with the repercussion. A few printer manufacturers sent me emails the very same week saying they would start shipping their printers with the option, but disabled. That was so good! 🤗
I disable the recovery feature becasue A) I use Octoprint and B) the entire setup is on a large UPS (spoils of decom'ing a data center). Even a small one you can get from Amazon for around $150 will keep you going through most outages.
After so much troubleshooting with my settings and then I find this! I am so happy and frustrated at the same time. I can't wait to try this. I'll post a update when I do.
Hi there! Please, let me know! Good luck 🍀👍
Superb diagnostic! Thank you very much.
You're welcome! 🤗
Your editing is so good and the way you talk about the topic makes it so interesting, i dont own a 3d printer or have seen any videos about it before but this video was just so entertaining!
Oh, WOW! You just made my day! Thank you very much! 😍
Thank you for such valuable information. I used your code and I could avoid those bulbs.
That’s great Ali! I am happy it helped you 🤗
-It's round!!
-Precisely!
This had me guffaw !!
🙏👏👏👏👏🙏
Perfect! 😁
Fabulous production! Your style is wonderfully entertaining AND informative!
Wow! Thank you so much! 🤗 We just bought a house - and I am preparing my new studio, the idea is to make videos more easily and fast!
Totally worked for me. In my case I just used a faster MicroSD card. Thanks a ton.
Yeah, slow SDCard is a very common bottleneck - I am glad it helped you 😁
I have literally watched my printer behaving like this. It would stop for a few seconds and ooze a blob. I am working with very high Polly models and don't see any blobs on low poly. Thanks for putting this video out. I will definitely try disabling this setting. I thought maybe it was just a quirk of tpu printing that couldn't get tuned out.
Hi! 👋 I am pretty sure it will fix it. Please tell me later how it went! Oh, I need to tell you: if you are using the SDCard that came with your printer, it would be good if you instead buy a fast SDCard from a Reputable brand, from a trustable store (Amazon usually sells original cards). Samsung, SanDisk, Sony, Lexar… these are my personal favorites. Class 10, U1 or U3… 8GB or 16GB are more than enough for 3D Printing 👍
The cards that come with the printer can sometimes cause blobs because they are far cheaper and slower.
OMG. The difference in quality is night and day with the setting off. Same g code, same filament, same printer. The seam on the first print with the setting on was horrendous. 6x4 mm wide. On the new print with the setting off, the seam is barely visible. 1x2 mm wide. I did also switch to a better quality SD card. The overall the print quality is more consistent. Thanks for posting this video. It has been more useful than any other videos I've come across pertaining to this issue. This is the last hurdle I had to print perfect tpu. And way closer to nailing down the settings for fpla+. Thanks!
I haven't even printed in vase mode yet, but your way of explaining how and why was wonderful! Very insightful and engaging to watch. You just got a new subscriber!
Hi Julie! Thanks for such kind words and welcome to the channel 🤗
Might also consider after disabling the "power loss interruption" feature supplying power to your 3d printer through a computer UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply - e.g. battery system to keep delivering stable power to your PC should you experience a brownout or power loss). Benefits as you stated (fewer writes to SD card) as well as limiting power surges and keeping the printer running (at least for a while) should the power be interrupted. Tnx for the research and explanation.
I think I just found my fave printing channel.
Thank you ❤️ Welcome! I hope not to disappoint - my videos take a long time to be made.
i dont know anything about 3d printers but goddarn this is so well explained and i get it already
the algorithm calculate the continuously movement in top speed requires Gcodes are loaded in a queue fast enough. If they are broken up, the acceleration curve will go to zero then climb back up to the top speed for the next Gcode. Ideally, for a perfect circular shape, the extruder should never drop from top speed. If it stops to zero velocity , the the hot filament is still dragging out by gravity and pressure inside of the chamber, hence the stacking of the extra material. Depends on the printing material, use the retraction action might help a little but this needs some experiment to see the speed of the flow and timing in which the retraction needs to engage before the extruder velocity becomes zero. The main reason for the read operation to stop is writing to flash takes a long time, it is a blocking call inside of the firmware, needs to wait for SD card controller to complete write operation then proceed to read. (not sure about SD card spec, but NAND flash write operation needs to erase before write for each block, and SD card is usually RAM less, that means the entire operation needs to be complete on NAND itself, instead of faster SRAM.)
I wasn't looking for this, but I am happy that I found it.
And I am happy that you enjoyed it 😁
Well sir, your moving time-lapse plug bought you another subscriber! Well done on this video.
Thats great, Benjamin! I am glad you liked it and welcome to the Channel 🤗
wow. I have been on 3 different 3d printing forums and nobody could help me with this. I eventually figured out it was only when it was running on somewhat unstable power (i.e generator) so I tried 2 different power surge protectors which narrowed it down to only printing the blobs in small sections, but the recovery mode makes sense with my situation and I will have to give that a try!
I am curious to know it that was it!
I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro and I couldn't print in vase mode, but with your tutorial I managed to solve what was happening and I'm happy! Thanks very much buddy!
That’s great, Lucas! I am glad the video was useful to you ❤️🤗