Pushing my Ender 3 to its LIMITS
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
- "Once we accept our limits, we go beyond them." - Albert Einstein.
PCBWay's helped me push the limits of this project, check them out!
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(Thank you PCBWay!)
BigTreeTech provided the tech to make this possible, have a browse at their sweet upgrades! (Affiliate Link)
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Music ►► elements.envat...
I'm not a review channel, but if your product is genuinely interesting or good, I can integrate it into a video. Projects come first. If it's worth my time, I can make a dedicated video on it. Contact my business email below :)
Business Contact ►► tommy@tommyhoughton.com
Q&A: (Might already have the answer)
Q: Just buy a Bambu Lab? A: No*
*(Realistically though, they are far too expensive locally, and even if I wanted one, I don’t need one.)
Q: Slightly modified? A: It’s basically stock.
Q: Why did you do this? A: Far too much fun.
Q: How much were the carbon fibre parts? A: 128.1$ (USD EXCLUDING SHIPPING.)
Q: My Bambu Lab can do that. A: I’m sure it can
Q: This is stupid. A: Fair enough, thanks for watching.
Q: I love this. A: Hell Yeah
Q: Should I do this? A: Absolutely Not.
Q: Why X Components? A: Personal choice and cool factor.
Q: Try CPAP cooling. A: Just you wait…
Q: I can print a faster benchy. A: Stay Tuned for November…
Q: What’s happening then? A: Redemption (Fastest Ender 5 [but faster])
Q: Just buy a Bambu Lab? A: Bambu Lab please send me anything, I’ll do anything.
Q: Total amount spent? A: I've had this machine for almost 4 years. Combining what I've spent + other companies' provided parts, I'd estimate over $1000 (NZD) easily.
I made quite a few mistakes in this video, I don't recommended you follow what I do, it's purely for entertainment and seeing what's possible. I enjoyed making this video, but as you can see it's quite a bit longer than usual. I don't intend for this to be the norm. I'm considering making a patreon or such for the directors cuts, and leaving the supercuts on YT. Otherwise it's a bit too much time to allocate. I feel the ending could have been improved, but with things ramping up, I'm comfortable to release it like this. If you have any questions or suggestions, I'd love to hear them as always. Cheers, Tommy.
Inspired by the LH Stinger, Monika McWuff, Nathan Builds Robots, Vez3D and many others. Thank you!
Buy a bambu
My bambu can do sub 5 minute benchies
@@LiamRay10 Your bambu is next level, especially with that custom hotend of yours
@@LiamRay10 So? As long as your having fun!
@@stevedegeorge726 it’s a joke, I emailed him with some info on improving the ender 5 and showed off my heavily modded bambulab P1P (I call it the P1S Plus). This is not a normal Bambu printer and it has blood sweat and tears put into it.
The Ender 3 is the AR-15 of 3D printers. Just so much you can do to it. Such a venerable printer.
I love the versatility, it's not the best, but having full CAD and 6 years of existence makes it an excellent test machine. Cheers!
I call it the Civic of 3d printers. *looking at what was once an ender3* now turned into a corexy with a sprite extruder, btt skr mini e3, klipper, happily printing bottle pet and partially integrated into home assistant.
Next up: rework electronics supply to supply 24v to board, 5v to klipper, and a 220 line to dryer, control the dryer with a microcontroller also connected to klipper, the 24v supply too and some better camera mounting angles.
Both the civic and AR comparisons are just wrong. Both civics and ARs are reliable out the gate. Good luck getting your ender 3 working well right out of the box
This kid understands why dads/old men never throw anything out, because when you do a week later you'll need it.
I dont tinker wity printers anymore these days due to time restraints, but its so great to see these projects! Living vicariously through you, thanks for the amazing content! And i LOVE the longer videos!
I really appreciate that, thank you! I always worry when posting longer videos, I won't stop with them, but I will start refining them a bit more. Not sure how this one reached 40m so quick haha, would have been longer if I addressed everything properly. Cheers!
So cool that you still use the Ender 3. Mine is sleeping since I got the Bambulab X1C, but I plan on upgrading the Ender 3 with Klipper and a second Z axis.
Myself owning a hevily modified E3 I can tell you that the plates holding the Z and Y linear rail blocks are insanely flexible. if you try to bend your system by holding the tip of your extruder and moving it forward and backward you'll see what I'm talking about. You could remake these pieces of your gantry with some wider and stiffer nylon prints. Love to all Ender 3 users 🤙😉
I've noticed they could definitely use some improvements, I'll look into printing some braces and tougher parts. Thanks for bringing it up! Cheers
Shoutout to the fan that made this all possible
I started 3d printing 9 years ago and love to tinker with them. Keep it up. Love the video!
I really appreciate that, thanks! I’ll do my best. Cheers
It's weird to hear people talk about printing high infill, since the vast majority of my prints have been 99-100% infill or 99 walls.
Welcome to the high rigidity club!
The American version of Stephan from CNCKITCHEN 😂❤
I'm not sure what that means, but thank you :) Prost!
Ayo, American? You better watch it buster, cause he's a kiwi.
Damn that was my first thougt 😂
Hey, cool video! You said you're probably not going to put any more time into the ender 3, but some things to keep in mind if you want to both improve speed and quality even more:
- your frame lacks rigidity at these high speeds, the y-axis aluminium extrusion was almost flopping around during the Benchy speed test, maybe some printed braces to "lock it down" to the rest of the frame in the front and in the back could help!
- also maybe a stone slab (more inert mass to the printer to cancel out high speed movements from printhead/printbed) and sth like the hula feet for vibration dampening can help with ringing :)
- while I'm happy to see that you went with the Dragon Ace hotend, your printhead could benefit from a more compact design; the 4020(?) axial fans are not that effective for part cooling and almost everyone switched to radial fans for a reason! maybe look into DragonBurner printhead or even the new-ish Yavoth printhead, both use dual 4010 radial fans and a very short filament path from the extruder, which also helps a lot with print quality!
- regarding bed adhesion issues, you should look into PEI beds (can be had quite cheaply nowadays) and drastically reduce sprint speed for the first layer, even for speed benchys, you can still up print speed after that, but if your print already fails first layer, print speed doesn't help ;)
Subscribed and am looking forward to seeing what you'll do with the ender 5! :D
I agree with all this :) except the hula feet. Apparently they impact IS in a negative direction more than a positive.
Nowadays, lots are switching back to axial fans, there are lots of very high power options available (most people use 3628s). I think Tommy's specific fans are just underpowered
@@Krautech Wrong! The flexible legs absorb the kinetic energy that the moving head assembly transfers to the frame.
If the legs are rigid, this vibration is not damped but only slowly and this is reflected in the printed object.
Look before you judge. I have not only looked, I have tried it.
@@mitsubishimakes Interesting! last I heard was the whole static pressure vs airspeed (and maybe noise? power consumption?) debate, where most people had come to the conclusion that radial fans are the better solution for us, even CPAP fans are basically big radial fans? haven't seen "modern" toolheads using axial fans in a while...
But yes, Tommy's fans/funnels seem like they could be improved if he wants to stay with the ultra-wide cooling haha
@@mitsubishimakes Delta FFB03612EHNYCL my beloved!
Personally I go for quality not speed
I respect that, speed is nothing without quality. For what I do, the faster I can get a decent prototype the better, although having a bit of accuracy is important too.
Why not both?
Get a bambu and you'll get both
@totem35 properly tuned printer can do fast clean prints.
My ender 3 s1 does 200mm/s at 4k accel with perfect quality.
@@UNVME okay? An X or P series printer can do better than that, especially on the accel right out of the box.
This is not an Ender 3 anymore. It's a heavily modified bed slinger made with Ender 3 frame parts. But it's nice to watch your videos and you are a great tinkerer
CB1 without heatsink gets really hot, although the fan blowing on it could be keeping it alive. Might want to check its temps with its in-built sensor.
It seems to be doing well so far, that fan I installed is keeping even the drivers cool at 2A. Will look into a heatsink if anything changes or it's getting hotter than expected. Cheers!
OMG what insane speed! ahaha, JK great job! Thank you for being part of the 3D printing community and keep the DIY spirit alive.
it's not pushing Ender 3 to its limits, it's "engine swapping" Ender 3.
Pretty much! Just needa replace the frame and then there's no stock left...
literally the best youtuber who else is pushing these boundaries
nozzle is pretty long, even if you add an accelerometer you gotta mount it to the nozzle tip with all that jerk lol
That’s very true, mounting it there would give the best results. I’ve actually never mounted one to the nozzle which is why I didn’t try it. I’ll watch a couple of videos on how to do that properly and knock that out. Cheers!
That's funny, I'm waiting on some parts to do exactly this to my ender 3 v2. I'm not sure how much of it is still ender 3v2 anymore, but I love this little machine. Was debating going from 1 Y rail to two as I have the BLV kit, but for now, we'll try it out as it. First, going for Speed, then see how good I can maximize speed and quality.
I'll never buy bambu. And I love my vorons, but this printer is just fun to push hard.
Did you set the max accel in the config to the 100k accel? It seems a bit slow for that much acceleration to me, but I might be tripping
Now that you mention it, I didn’t, I believe it was capped at 50k. That could have been the reason it wasn’t jumping around, but 500mm’s isn’t a super crazy speed on camera, so I’m not fully sure.
Great mod keep up the great vids look forward to every new vid thanks tommy
Can you print straight on the carbon fiber bed? I have seen others do it, and you could reduce the bed weight even more. Great job though!
I believe so! Someone mentioned a specific filament (Nylon? PC?) that would stick really well. Then I could get some insane speeds for sure. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton it's basically a G10 bed but stiffer and lighter. Great stuff! PLA is difficult, PETG sticks like a dream and pops off when it's cold. Different resins make a difference though, and you have to wash it with dawn then rinse and rub with your hands until it squeaks
Ah yes the ender speed
Nice build, but there are a lot of things that can be improved. first is to stiffen up the Y axis and Z axis extrusions big time, with beefier motors comes with greater amounts of force that the frame has to endure, bracing should help a lot here. second is your motor mounts, you cant tension your belts very much without supporting the shaft (maybe 2 pounds of tension max), Double shear motor mounts should help with this and it makes your motors run smoother and less fatiguing of the shafts. I would also bring that extruder as close to the inlet of the hotend as possible, it both reduces the filament path and brings the tool head center of mass closer to the rail carriage which is what you want. I cant wait to see what this becomes and evolves into! and ofc I had to subscribe!
Higher stiffness/rigidity for the frame and double sheer are definitely necessary for longer-term use and getting the most out of this machine, I'll add them to my notes. Lowering the extruder was also mentioned, shouldn't be too hard if I flip it around. I've had lots of suggestions on improvements, so maybe I'll make another video applying all of them. Thanks for your suggestions! Cheers
you should look for LH-Stinger project there are lots of design mistakes in Ender 3 I wouldn't spend this much money on Ender 3 but get parts for LH-Stinger and build one...
The LH-Stinger is awesome and my primary motivation to add carbon fiber. I hear it's peak bed slinger performance and I don't doubt it one bit. I'm a huge fan of bed slingers and the project, so I'll see if getting one in the future is an option. Cheers
Very well done.
I am planning a lot of similar things for my custom printer I am planning, like the AC bed and hopefully 48 V motors. However mine will be a core xy and hopefully be a tool changer. To make the tool changer portion easier I will be using CAN bus for the toolheads so I will only need 4 wires to each toolhead. I will be using Klipper too. I will be pushing for high temp materials (200 C bed and 500 C hot end with possibly infrared part heating rather than chamber heating, but I may just make a separate smaller printer for this) on the printer and probably high flow rates.
I currently have an old ender 3 pro that I have previously upgraded that I will be using for testing, like learning how to use Klipper and AC beds before I build my own.
I was very tempted to buy some Bambu Lab PPA-CF due to its high rigidity, strength and temperature resistance, in particular the bending modulus of over 9000 MPa which is significantly higher than most other filaments, something like that may be useful for you too but I would wait until there is a sale.
If I had more time or possibly in the future I would look more into making a welded steel frame for the extra rigidity, nothing fancy and only the essential bits but a big problem with printers is rigidity, especially ones like the ender 3.
Thanks!
A 48V toolchanger will be a beast of a machine, CAN should make things a lot easier, I've heard good things about it, but I'm yet to try it.
The E3 in my opinion is a great platform for testing all of these things before going all out on a big machine.
I'll look into Bambu Lab's filament, I haven't tried anything from them yet.
A welded steel frame would certainly be the endgame, I'd very much like to try building a frame out of 3030 or 4040 extrusions first.
All the best with your projects!
Cheers
Another big bonus of steel is wright. Heavy printers take more to shake!
What a ride. Nice work Tommy
Thank you Scott! Bit a of a film but I didn’t want to cut too much “lore.” I really appreciate you checking this one out, shorter videos are planned for the foreseeable future. Cheers
Have you checked the Ender 3 NG? Its a core XY convertion for the ender 3 that might fun for you. Also SPEED
I have, it's an interesting (and very cool) conversion, but not something I'll be doing to this machine. Maybe if I get another Ender 3. Cheers!
How hard would it be to get it to time itself ? little mini project for you
As in to time the prints and such? I believe Klipper does that, so maybe a plugin to control a little lcd could achieve that.
Well... that's a really fun project... it is amazing how you've done it
With the Octopus board you can have a 24v powersupply for the board and toolhead and then a 60v powersupply for the motors and 5160pro stepper drivers
I’m not sure if the Manta E3EZ can do that too, but I know the drivers I’m running top out at 48v so they’re probably the limiting factor. I’ve seen some 60v movements and it’s crazy. Might have to try it one day. Cheers!
Can’t the octopus also have a separate DC supply for the bed? So 3 power supply inputs in total? One for the motors, one for the bed and one for everything else.
Amazing video as always. What a journey that was!
So, were I to mount the belts to the bed and loop them.. I would wrap them so that the belt teeth interlock and apply the ziptie
That’s the best method for sure, much simpler than using custom parts.
Cooling still needs a massive upgrade I think. Maybe CPAP?
Definetly, I have a CPAP kit handy, but it needs to go on the reworked E5 in November. I think I need at least auxiliary cooling for this machine, and some 12v axials over the 24v ones. For some reason the current ones are lot less powerful. Cheers!
i would not print everything in resin, since a generic resin has a very low max temperature (sunlu for example has a max of 48C, then it offgasses toxic fumes)
unless PCBway offers a high temp resin, but those are much more expensive ofc
Thanks for bringing this up! PCBWay does have a thermal resin, but it's a slightly different colour. Although it has a max temp of 130c vs 50-52c which the regular transparent has. If I get around to building the clear machine, I'll be cautious which parts are regular and high temp (or just regular filament/metal.) Cheers!
Nice project. Would you post the tutorials you mentioned?
Thanks! Here's the input shaper (ruclips.net/video/FBWj8q5e6Wo/видео.html) and sensorless homing videos (ruclips.net/video/l-jVkmGk6Mw/видео.html) , if there's another one I mentioned, let me know and I'll find it for you. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton Thank you. Looking forward to more fun projects like yours 😃
Have a look at the STD6 hotend and at least 9mm belts.
The Rapido is pretty slow compared
I've got an STD6 ready for the ender 5, it's a unit of a hotend. I won't be running 9mm on there as I just bought some gates 6mm, but the creator of the Mercury 1.1 AWD mod I'll be trying to run is adding 9mm support, which I'll look into. For now I'll be keeping the E3 as is and then look into if I need to adjust some things. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton I use the STD6 and dual 3648 server fans with an active cooled Bondtech LGX lite PRO extruder and pushing 110mm³/sec on PLA :)
That's on my Modix printers, but the RatRigs are soon to get an overhaul too :)
That's an incredible setup! I hope to get my STD6 up and running soon. I just took a look, and those Modix printers are ludicrous. I hope the RatRig overhauls go well!
@@TommyHoughton I might put up a video about it, but YT is not my main community ;)
@@creativitybyph that’s no problem, I took a look at your instagram, awesome stuff there 😄
What pulleys are you using? I'm referring to 1:55. Could you provide the link for purchase?
I don't have a link for those sorry, those are the stock pulleys on the Ender 3, and they're press fit onto the stepper motors. On Aliexpress, generic, GT2 6mm 20 Tooth Pulley's are what I use for motion. Cheers
My questions got answered. An Ender 3 today makes absolutely no sense
I can agree with that.
Been waiting for this!
I’d love to hear your thoughts on it! I hope it lives up to your expectations 🤞Cheers
Real question though. Is it really still an ender 3? Like if you replace every part of a machine with upgraded parts, is it still the same machine? Or with computers. If you upgrade all of the components over time, and all that’s left is the case, is it a different computer?
I've had that brought up a lot, the experiment is called the ship of theseus. While the frame of the machine is still stock, everything else has pretty much been replaced. In my opinion, the the frame would need to replaced to produce a different machine, but it could be argued that even if the mainboard was swapped, it would be a different machine. It's fun to think about. Cheers!
IT IS the Same as with Tuning Cars.
If you have an old car and Change Motor, Gear, suspension, Breaks and wheels IT IS still the "old car".
But....
This is insane. Like putting a nuclear reactor in a civic
Let’s gooooooo. More ender 3 mods!!
Awesome video, Tommy! It kept me entertained so I didn't notice it's length. You are good and patient with troubleshooting! Also love your pinned Q and As in the comments - very informative! 😀❤️
Thanks for watching, Auntie!
very nice, coming along nicely.
Interesting video.
I am NOT a tinkerer[?]. I just want it to work, and can do basic repairs and maintenance.
But watching videos like these are fun.
I currently have 4 printers. A mix bag,
Ender 3 S1
Ender 2 Pro
CR-10SMART
Ender 3 V3 SE.
Quality wise my Ender 2 Pro is the leader.
Have fun with your next project.
I'm kinda curious about closed loop steppers with brakes, could be useful, I have a cr10 max so I got a bit more weight to shove around.
That would be fun to play around with, a machine like the Cr10 max could utilize them well. I might look into them in the future.
Mks makes a few that aren't bad. A and b models aren't made now, c model is $12, d model is like $18. They're weird though, and tend to overshoot. Not open source either despite their claims, so stuck with their bad firmware. I have the c and wouldn't consider it on a printer going over 50mm/s (but I'm gonna test it anyway lol) but the d might be better
This is so stupid and I absolutely love it
check out the LH Stinger, you could borrow some idea from that project
The LH Stinger is a beast, it was my primary reason for using carbon fibre. Hopefully I can get one eventually 🤞I'll look into more improvements. Cheers
incredibly talented young man
Up next: CoreXY conversion
Where did you get those white bed spacers? are those delrin spacers?
Aliexpress, they are just generic silicone spacers for 3d printers. Cheers
Many upgrades a lot of money, but :
Lack of quality (benchy at least), I understand its due to its speed, I want to see some slower prints and their quality.
I want to see this printer max speeds while keeping same quality.
Before anyone replys, I run my ender 3 (of course not stock) at 250mm/s 10k accel, while have
I definitely left the economical zone a while ago. This machine has had phases of excellent quality, but with so many parts being replaced It gets hard to pinpoint what's causing what.
The most important steps I need to take is tensioning everything, bolting it down more, and actually using Orca's calibration tools. I have a bad habit of avoiding them.
250 @ 10K is excellent for everyday printing, I'll work on getting that as my baseline too. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton good luck, looking forward to seeing it print at thar speed
35:35 it might be the powerloss recovery, try disabling it
That's the most likely cause, I'll look into it, thanks!
@@TommyHoughton glad to have helped ❤️ I had the same issue and it took me a bit of time to pinpoint this cause (but it was on marlin, maybe klipper works differently)
Amazing video, subscribed.
Also, I think you can achieve even faster speeds for the Z axis if you would convert it into a belted z mod from kevin aka sam. You already have the motors, you just need to 3D print some abs parts. Previously I was running max 5 mm/s for z axis, now I'm running 25 mm/s but I've heard people run it at 40-50 mm/s.
Thanks for that! I’m really glad you enjoyed. I’ve had a few suggestions over time for his belted z mod. While I’m pretty pleased with the current setup’s performance, I’ll write it down with the other suggestions since I should give it a go. Thanks again! Cheers
that psu flopping around lol.
Is this practical in any way, shape or form? Maybe not.
Is it cool as heck? Absolutely!
Is that even an Ender 3 anymore? Its better than the most recent Ender 3 V3.
With a few more hours of TLC I think It'll be a clear winner, but for now the main thing is it smashes most advertised speeds. It's still got some E3 left in it, which I hope to remove in the near future. We'll certainly see. Thanks for checking this one out! Cheers!
Your length of bowden from your extruder is way to long make a miunt that gives you a near direct drive mount by reducing the distance between extruder and hotend it will help with better quality and retractions. Tinkering with printers sure is fun but frustrating.
That's true, it's a bit further than I'd like, I think flipping the extruder around could let me lower the mount a bit more, that would probably help a lot. I'll look into it. Cheers!
U want airflow on ur part cooling? Try arctic s4028-6k or s4028-15k. Trust me, the 15k are trusting themself away easily xD
I should have gone with those! They are only a couple of dollars more than the ones I went with. If I need to execute the other recommendations, I'll knock these out too. Thanks!
Crazy to see an Ender 3 move like that.
2 Things:
I see PLA+ on the spool. Would Hyper/ rapid pla be better?
The screws on the hot bed need to be countersunk a bit more to sit flush. (you can see them bulging up)
Otherwise can't wait to see the Ender 5 video lol 🤪😁👍
It's quite fun to watch for sure.
I'm using Jamg He Hi-Speed PLA+, I talk about it a little bit in the first Ender 5 video, I find it to be great stuff.
I'm surprised you caught that, I thought it was almost unnoticeable. I'll redo them later and fix up the gantry, it needs some beefing up for sure.
I'll try and post updates on the E5 video when I can, I think it'll be great.
Cheers!
I think you need more rigidity in the frame
Absolutely, I need to make some braces at the least.
@@TommyHoughton maybe some adjustable tension cables could work? They should be small enough to let you put them in all 4 corners without impeding anything
@@ziocrielo6148 I haven't played around with them before, but they look like another good option. I'll do some research and see what I can find. Thanks!
bro has to swap mother boards for which printer he uses
It was quite a funny situation. I’ll actually be swapping the 48v power supply next as I only have one for now…
In your starting gcode you might need a purge line
I have one on Orcaslicer, but for some reason Cura sliced parts go much faster so I used that instead. I use Orca on the daily since I prefer it, but in Cura I don't have purges enabled. Cheers!
also I did a 6:17 on a very slightly modified ender3 running marlin
I just watched your video, awesome stuff. I might have to take some inspiration and add some auxiliary cooling too. Cheers!
Only realised you did FPV from the ethix prop tool at 2:50
@@sethwalmsley5287 It’s fun to sneak into the videos and see who notices 😄. After losing two digital quads in the woods, I’m taking a break from the hobby but I hope to get back to it in the future. It’s great fun otherwise. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton Ouch... Money is the main reason I fly analog, but it makes buying and losing quads way less painful.
I also had to take a break for a little bit just cause I was sinking way too much money into it.
@@sethwalmsley5287 I can agree with that, I loved flying analog; had a tank of a quad that I miss. Before focusing on media and more on 3D printing, FPV was the “sponge” for my income. Glad it’s relatable. I hope you get back into it seamlessly after your break!
Them's cursed benches!
Awesome! Long video, lots od tinkering and problem solving (including "stupid" mistakes), some hardware sexyness and the demonstration at the end. I couldn't ask for anything better. Will keep an eye on tour channel for sure. Cheers!
Thank you! You’ve summed it up excellently, I’m really pleased you enjoyed it. I’ll try keep this style for the future. Cheers!
ohh i hate 48v so much it started with me buying a planet igs5225-8p2s2x din rail switch for tinkering for relatively cheap. but i didnt know that it needed 48v just thought it ran on 24v so i had to pay almost as much as i paid for the switch to buy a 48v 320w meanwell psu
That's a very valid reason, one brightside is that you have a high quality power supply. I can't justify anything from meanwell just yet. Still an annoying situation for sure, I'm sorry that happened. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton im pretty happy of it now, just need to find a way to mount the psu in the rack. also is meanwell that high quality?
I'm glad to hear that. I'm terrible at mounting things so I hope you get it sorted. I've heard good things about Meanwell and have seen their products used frequently so I'm assuming they're a good company.
Hey man, you said you were using some carbon fiber filament on some of your parts, just so you know you should look into the dangers of it before you handle parts made with it, some pretty nasty stuff!!
Yeah I am, I’ll look into it and exercise the necessary cautions, thanks for bringing it up. I’m not too familiar with filaments like this just yet. Cheers
Hey, any link to the power supply?
As it was the cheapest one out there, I would prefer not to. However by searching on aliexpress with similar keywords, you'll have plenty of options to choose from. Cheers!
when i have a stable job i will do this because i can
>PETG-CF
>Exotic filament
I hope you can share the resource sites so we can atleast try to replicate your project. BOMS, Print files, etc. Thanks
While I don't recommend true replication, I can provide as much as I can.
Control Board: Manta E3EZ (BigTreeTech)
Stepper Motors: 2504ac (LDO)
Hotend: Rapido Ace (Trianglelab)
Extruder: Artemis Extruder (Eibos)
Dual Z Axis Creality
Cooling Fans: 4028 24v fan (generic)
Y-Axis Assembly: www.printables.com/model/43344-creality-ender-3-y-axis-linear-rail-mod-v2
X-Axis Assembly: www.printables.com/model/548048-minimalist-ender-3-x-axis-tensioner-belt-alignment/files
Firmware: Klipper
How blowing up the main board is in the upgrading list😁😁
Technically it made me install a better one, but yeah definitely a downgrade at the time lol. Cheers!
9:46 that is a boost converter and it's not a new device
Pretty much, it's 4x the cost of a regular one too! I guess they're marketing it differently, smart on their end. Cheers
Buck converters step down voltage, the device was a boost converter for stepping up from 24 V to 48 V.
@@conorstewart2214 corrected, I always mix those up.
@@TommyHoughton looking at the specs it is awful. It can only handle 2 A motor current at 48 V and only 1 A motor current at 60 V. It is only £10.80 here though.
In comparison I could get a 1200 W 12-83 V 20 A output boost converter for £8.40.
Or a 600 W, 60 V max output, 10 A module for £3.
I would be very surprised if there was anything special about the mellow boost converter. It is only really enough to power a single motor. Strangely it is set up so that both outputs are separate and active, so you get both 48 V and 60 V output all the time and I can’t see many use cases for using both on a printer, especially since anything like core xy will use a matched pair of motors and drivers.
That's a bit more limiting than I realised.
With how cheap boost converters are now, getting one with some breathing room is a much better option. I might do that in the future.
They expect the user to use one per driver/motor, but for that price it's the same as a whole power supply and with restrictions. The only "benefit" is compactness, and even then that isn't a factor for most people.
Bit of an interesting product for sure.
Now that you got the speed sorted you need to bring up the quality.
Will do! I’m looking forward to it now that everything is final. Cheers!
god dammit just wait till the pei bed is cold and then take the part
u destroyed the bed in just couple of prints
I've never heard that before, the sheet's been operating fine, as have the two others I've had for years. Is there an article that explains the do's and don'ts? Cheers!
So now that Ender 3 is as good as a Prusa MK3S+ stock. Neat.
Lol what? The prusa mk3s+ is a good, reliable printer but isn't as fast and doesn't have as good of an extruder+nozzle as this custom printer has.
my boy said "slightly modified"
also i don't understand the hype of cf- reinforced filaments they shred carbon fibers into the filament , those fibers are way too short to make a difference. all it does is leave micro fibers in your skin tbh
"It's basically stock"
Honestly, I have no idea. It sounds cool so I gave it a go, otherwise it's PLA everything for me. I definitely felt the cf on my skin, not the nicest stuff. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton yep that's the reason I'm not using cf :D. I'm mostly printing Pla for prototypes and petg for structural parts and abs for automotive
That's a great approach, I'll try that too. All the best with your projects!
Or you can buy an other 8$ motor and put it on the other side of your bed / gantry: double the torque and half the belt slack.
That would be insane, I could do it, but we'll see what happens next. I have plenty of motors ready to go in case. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton Agreed, it would be insane to run ~30k accel on a Ender3 with just one 2020 profile on Y ;)
Buy yo, if you do for it for the for the fun I'm gonna watch it an upvote! :)
Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton Btw: an other fun thing: use just a 15 - 12cm bed, no need that big thing swiping around...
@@eaman11 I saw a sub 2m benchy where the user had a cf bed only slightly bigger than the boat itself! I don’t have a link handy, but it was even faster than Monika’s benchy. I might go for a small bed in the future, with the linear rail mount, there’s not much stopping me. I could actually cut up that old cf sheet just for that…
thoes arent speed benchy rules
All speed benchy prints were following this article’s guidelines all3dp.com/2/3d-printing-speed-speedboat-race-3dbenchy/
Excellent work
Thank you! Cheers
I'd pull out the cb1.. it's HORRIBLE. Swap it for a CM4 that actually receives updates and support 😂
For the time being it works well enough, but if there are issues, I'll sort them out. Thanks for bringing this up! Cheers
@@TommyHoughton happy to help! Love the video tho, I subbed! 👍🏼
Slightly modified
“Basically stock”
nice video
Thanks for checking it out! I really appreciate it. Thanks for your other comments too!
Your first layer is WAY too fast. This layer builds the base for every print - and hasn't to be that fast - normally you could easily up your speeds (maybe not in your case) once the first layer is perfect.
100%, it's completely overkill. On regular prints I do it multiples slower, the first layer is too important. Cheers!
make a custom cover for the motherboard because you got a bigger fan
That would help airflow a ton, I’ll pull up the CAD and rework the stock one. Should be easier than water cooling haha. Cheers
You got something made by Crapality to work, that's pretty much the best you can hope for.
You really need to properly stress relief and cable manage those mains bed heater wires, you are one snag away from electrocution.
That's a high priority for sure, especially for the bed and power supply. I'll get to work on some covers, guides and such. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton also it may be worth checking the conductivity of that CF bed. I know when using a metal bed you are supposed to Earth the bed. Really when working with AC at all you are supposed to Earth any conductive parts like the frame, bed, etc, in case the AC wires insulation breaks and or a connection goes bad and turns the whole frame or bed live.
If you Earth the frame then if the live wire gets shorted to the frame then it is a short to Earth and should trip your breaker or blow a fuse but if the frame is just floating (not connected to anything) then if it is connected to live accidentally then it becomes very dangerous because as soon as you touch the frame you could be electrocuted.
You didn’t show it in the video but do you have a fuse on the AC input too? Also depending on your house wiring it may be worth getting an RCD.
Good call, grounding is very important. I think the frame is grounded, but I haven't grounded the bed in case. I will double check both and get onto that asap. I believe my house wiring/fuse box has RCD's as I've tripped them more than once. I have some thermal fuses I forgot to add, I'll get those sorted too.
Thank you for bringing this up, I'll get it fixed. Cheers
Ok not to be that guy but I need a ful, google doc of everything bought here
I don't have a full doc, but I have a list of main changes made:
(If there's anything specific, I can find it for you too.)
Control Board: Manta E3EZ (BigTreeTech)
Stepper Motors: 2504ac (LDO)
Hotend: Rapido Ace (Trianglelab)
Extruder: Artemis Extruder (Eibos)
Dual Z Axis Creality
Cooling Fans: 4028 24v fan (generic)
Y-Axis Assembly: www.printables.com/model/43344-creality-ender-3-y-axis-linear-rail-mod-v2
X-Axis Assembly: www.printables.com/model/548048-minimalist-ender-3-x-axis-tensioner-belt-alignment/files
Firmware: Klipper
@@TommyHoughton thank you so much! My goal is to make a custom corexy printer from scratch and using RUclips as a starting point
That’s an excellent goal, good luck with it! I hope to do the same next year 😄 Cheers!
I though I'd share, over the last few years I've been compiling diy 3D printer videos into a playlist, here's the link in case one of the videos might be useful ruclips.net/video/VzjJFon4c8E/видео.html
There's a full variety of stuff, might be good inspiration. All the best!
@@TommyHoughton that’s wonderful! You have just earned yourself a subscriber. I loved the vid and I am very excited to see what comes next for your channel. Cheers!
least modified ender 3
Good boy, the printed parts that you used in the upgrade are of very poor quality
For some reason the petg-cf printed quite poorly, I think I used too much cooling with weak layers. I’m trying to figure out how to improve them. Cheers!
Making usless blobs of melted plastic. Never understood why people try to go fast when they cant print slow.
What a waste of time and money, turned a working printer into a usless plastic melter. Dumb.
If its not dimentionally accurate, it's usless. Makes more sense to take 2hrs to print a boat that floats then printing 24 6 min boats that all sink. Its a metaphor, i know benches don't float well, but mine do float
It's a very fair point, but I'm pleased with its performance. I'm comfortable printing over 3x faster than stock with the same quality and accuracy, and this will only improve when I further adjust things and take the advice I was given. There's not much point to "printing" as fast as I've done in the video, it's all for numbers and entertainment. Cheers!
@TommyHoughton if you want to go fast and do it cheapish then I would recommend taking all the good parts you have on that machine and finding a cheap ender 5 on Facebook, then using your good parts mod that ender 5 into a mercury zero. That will get you much farther into a speed machine then a bed slinger could ever dream of.
I've got everything ready for my E5 AWD Mercury build, it will either be my next video, or the one after. It will be even faster than this machine, I can't wait. While extrusion, cooling and motion will all be ticked, the Z axis for the E5 still needs improving, it might be the sole bottleneck for perfect layers. I'll have to see what happens.
@TommyHoughton do the hydra bed leveling system. Same thing that's on my ratrig, works super slick. Also beta orcas calculated pressure advance works better then not having it checked but takes some testing to configure.
I've heard excellent things about the Hydra, but currently I've allocated all I can to that project. I'll look into emailing Fabreeko and seeing if they can help. I'm a huge fan of Orca's in built tools, I'll look into that new version and test it out. I really appreciate your feedback and suggestions.
Why would you still call this an ender 3? :)
It's barely the frame that allows me to call it that, but after I swap the frame... (I'll keep everyone updated on that) Cheers!
I see ender i click sub!
PLEASE always clamp your workpiece at the drill press
I will from now on, thanks for the heads up.
type shit
Horrible build.
fair enough
Horrible comment.
@@conorstewart2214 horribly honest
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