Q&A: (Might already have the answer) Q: Just buy a Bambu Lab? A: No* *(Realistically though, they are far too expensive locally, and even if I wanted one, I don’t need one.) Q: Slightly modified? A: It’s basically stock. Q: Why did you do this? A: Far too much fun. Q: How much were the carbon fibre parts? A: 128.1$ (USD EXCLUDING SHIPPING.) Q: My Bambu Lab can do that. A: I’m sure it can Q: This is stupid. A: Fair enough, thanks for watching. Q: I love this. A: Hell Yeah Q: Should I do this? A: Absolutely Not. Q: Why X Components? A: Personal choice and cool factor. Q: Try CPAP cooling. A: Just you wait… Q: I can print a faster benchy. A: Stay Tuned for November… Q: What’s happening then? A: Redemption (Fastest Ender 5 [but faster]) Q: Just buy a Bambu Lab? A: Bambu Lab please send me anything, I’ll do anything. Q: Total amount spent? A: I've had this machine for almost 4 years. Combining what I've spent + other companies' provided parts, I'd estimate over $1000 (NZD) easily. I made quite a few mistakes in this video, I don't recommended you follow what I do, it's purely for entertainment and seeing what's possible. I enjoyed making this video, but as you can see it's quite a bit longer than usual. I don't intend for this to be the norm. I'm considering making a patreon or such for the directors cuts, and leaving the supercuts on YT. Otherwise it's a bit too much time to allocate. I feel the ending could have been improved, but with things ramping up, I'm comfortable to release it like this. If you have any questions or suggestions, I'd love to hear them as always. Cheers, Tommy. Inspired by the LH Stinger, Monika McWuff, Nathan Builds Robots, Vez3D and many others. Thank you!
@@stevedegeorge726 it’s a joke, I emailed him with some info on improving the ender 5 and showed off my heavily modded bambulab P1P (I call it the P1S Plus). This is not a normal Bambu printer and it has blood sweat and tears put into it.
I dont tinker wity printers anymore these days due to time restraints, but its so great to see these projects! Living vicariously through you, thanks for the amazing content! And i LOVE the longer videos!
I really appreciate that, thank you! I always worry when posting longer videos, I won't stop with them, but I will start refining them a bit more. Not sure how this one reached 40m so quick haha, would have been longer if I addressed everything properly. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton saw a dude advertise a ender 3 converted to a ender 5 which was then converted to be a mercury one, which was then advertised as a "modified ender 3" brotha, its not a ender 3 anymore 🤣
I call it the Civic of 3d printers. *looking at what was once an ender3* now turned into a corexy with a sprite extruder, btt skr mini e3, klipper, happily printing bottle pet and partially integrated into home assistant. Next up: rework electronics supply to supply 24v to board, 5v to klipper, and a 220 line to dryer, control the dryer with a microcontroller also connected to klipper, the 24v supply too and some better camera mounting angles.
Both the civic and AR comparisons are just wrong. Both civics and ARs are reliable out the gate. Good luck getting your ender 3 working well right out of the box
@@dudefromkeene that is a correct statement a long time ago, but with the ender 3v3se, it has been mostly plug and play. Other than changing the offset, they have been plug and play for me, love them so much I replaced my fleet with them.
So cool that you still use the Ender 3. Mine is sleeping since I got the Bambulab X1C, but I plan on upgrading the Ender 3 with Klipper and a second Z axis.
This is not an Ender 3 anymore. It's a heavily modified bed slinger made with Ender 3 frame parts. But it's nice to watch your videos and you are a great tinkerer
Myself owning a hevily modified E3 I can tell you that the plates holding the Z and Y linear rail blocks are insanely flexible. if you try to bend your system by holding the tip of your extruder and moving it forward and backward you'll see what I'm talking about. You could remake these pieces of your gantry with some wider and stiffer nylon prints. Love to all Ender 3 users 🤙😉
Can't be understated how much having nice tools makes projects like this nicer. All your tools seem like the cheap, possibly even free, kind that come with printers or a multi tool intended to be used for general maintenance. A nice tool kit might be a big quality of life improvement for projects like this
Yeah that’s true, I haven’t spent much on tools and most of them have been here a while. I’m looking into upgrading my kit over the next year with proper stuff. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton No problem, I only say it because I was the same! I didn't really think much of it, and either would use whatever I had without a second thought or specifically looked for the cheapest tools. (not to mention any sets I bought prior I had a habit of losing pieces from over time.. making me resist buying nice stuff) It wasn't until I actually had a nice set of tools, that I actually went out of my way to ensure I took care to put everything back when I was done so I didn't lose things, that I realised how much nicer working on projects was. Good luck!
I can certainly resonate with that! I've lost and broken quite a few things over the years. Getting something sorted with gridfinity/foam/3d-printing is something high on my list for organising, as well as custom tools too. Once I refine my selection, I'll get to work on that, although with Black Friday sales right around the corner... I look forward to getting it sorted. Thanks!
I totally feel the issue with no printer working. I keep one Ender 5 Plus on live support to be able to print while I prokrastinate on all other builds.
That's a good idea, I've got a printer coming in I hope to leave stock for reliability. Since I've had to tear down my E5 for the remake, and my other printers are either broken or unassembled, it's a bit of a rough spot if something goes wrong haha. Should get better in the future, especially if I improve the reliability of my machines too. We'll see how it goes. Cheers!
CB1 without heatsink gets really hot, although the fan blowing on it could be keeping it alive. Might want to check its temps with its in-built sensor.
It seems to be doing well so far, that fan I installed is keeping even the drivers cool at 2A. Will look into a heatsink if anything changes or it's getting hotter than expected. Cheers!
That's funny, I'm waiting on some parts to do exactly this to my ender 3 v2. I'm not sure how much of it is still ender 3v2 anymore, but I love this little machine. Was debating going from 1 Y rail to two as I have the BLV kit, but for now, we'll try it out as it. First, going for Speed, then see how good I can maximize speed and quality. I'll never buy bambu. And I love my vorons, but this printer is just fun to push hard.
Are the carbon fiber from pcb way and what thickness and max temperature did they support? Are they able to take the 110 c from a hot plate? Really interested in buying those
Yep, all CF stuff is from PCBWay. Max temp is supposedly 121c, unsure about max thickness, I believe I chose 2.5 for one and 3.5 for the other? 110c might be a bit too much, I haven't tested mine yet above ~80c. I'm sure their support would be able to answer any questions. Here's their "data sheet" site on CF: www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyping/cnc-machining/plastic/carbon-fiber/carbon-fiber-plate/ Cheers!
Seeing the upgraded motors makes me want to upgrade the Y axis motor on my Ender 3. I think I could get a lot better speed with a better motor to move the heavy bed.
Cool project, always fun to see what people can do with the older ender 3s and 5s. I have been running my ender 5 for about 4 years now and have been tempted to just buy a Prusa or Bamboo printer. But upgrading what I already have is more fun to me, I can see you have a similar approach. Great video!
Thanks for checking it out! I've been really tempted recently to get an A1 mini, but I can't justify it enough to go for it. I'll keep the E3 on life support until something changes haha, it's been the only one that has survived. Upgrading stuff is certainly fun, I quite like the community. I'll keep at it, there should be more fun projects in the future. Cheers!
jeez it actually went ultra instinct. I have a voxelab aquila that I got from my grandma, but it's gonna turn into a speed printer (I will never use it for its speed I just want it to be able to)
Hey, cool video! You said you're probably not going to put any more time into the ender 3, but some things to keep in mind if you want to both improve speed and quality even more: - your frame lacks rigidity at these high speeds, the y-axis aluminium extrusion was almost flopping around during the Benchy speed test, maybe some printed braces to "lock it down" to the rest of the frame in the front and in the back could help! - also maybe a stone slab (more inert mass to the printer to cancel out high speed movements from printhead/printbed) and sth like the hula feet for vibration dampening can help with ringing :) - while I'm happy to see that you went with the Dragon Ace hotend, your printhead could benefit from a more compact design; the 4020(?) axial fans are not that effective for part cooling and almost everyone switched to radial fans for a reason! maybe look into DragonBurner printhead or even the new-ish Yavoth printhead, both use dual 4010 radial fans and a very short filament path from the extruder, which also helps a lot with print quality! - regarding bed adhesion issues, you should look into PEI beds (can be had quite cheaply nowadays) and drastically reduce sprint speed for the first layer, even for speed benchys, you can still up print speed after that, but if your print already fails first layer, print speed doesn't help ;) Subscribed and am looking forward to seeing what you'll do with the ender 5! :D
Nowadays, lots are switching back to axial fans, there are lots of very high power options available (most people use 3628s). I think Tommy's specific fans are just underpowered
@@Krautech Wrong! The flexible legs absorb the kinetic energy that the moving head assembly transfers to the frame. If the legs are rigid, this vibration is not damped but only slowly and this is reflected in the printed object. Look before you judge. I have not only looked, I have tried it.
@@mitsubishimakes Interesting! last I heard was the whole static pressure vs airspeed (and maybe noise? power consumption?) debate, where most people had come to the conclusion that radial fans are the better solution for us, even CPAP fans are basically big radial fans? haven't seen "modern" toolheads using axial fans in a while... But yes, Tommy's fans/funnels seem like they could be improved if he wants to stay with the ultra-wide cooling haha
@@TommyHoughton Do you use Fusion 360? I cant remember. If so, let me know if you need a little help redesigning your extruder mount, and your tensioners. I always say to keep in mind how they will need to be printed while you design it so you can create certain angles and flat spots on them so the layer lines are in the right direction for strength. 30:46 If you tilt this part to the left and slice off some of it so there is a flat side there, then move the hole slightly over so they are diagonal from each other, you can then print that on that side for strength and stability. You can also design parts to fit together, so this part could be 3 pieces where all the parts are laid flat on build plate and then assembled after. Lots of little tricks to make them stronger when designing.
Yeah I do. A redesign of the extruder stuff would be very beneficial, but not something I'm focusing on right now. (Ironically it's broken and causing me issues but I just can't allocate the effort.) Thanks for the tips with the print and design strength, I've never taken it into consideration when designing parts, not sure why. I do when slicing. "Multi-Assembly" parts are a bit intimidating as more things to design and more parts overall, but I will put some time into learning more about how I can improve my parts, it would definitely help in the long run. I'll keep you updated with any notable changes. I'm putting everything I currently can into my Ender 5, but encountering little setbacks here and there, I'll post a community update early next week. Cheers!
Nice build, but there are a lot of things that can be improved. first is to stiffen up the Y axis and Z axis extrusions big time, with beefier motors comes with greater amounts of force that the frame has to endure, bracing should help a lot here. second is your motor mounts, you cant tension your belts very much without supporting the shaft (maybe 2 pounds of tension max), Double shear motor mounts should help with this and it makes your motors run smoother and less fatiguing of the shafts. I would also bring that extruder as close to the inlet of the hotend as possible, it both reduces the filament path and brings the tool head center of mass closer to the rail carriage which is what you want. I cant wait to see what this becomes and evolves into! and ofc I had to subscribe!
Higher stiffness/rigidity for the frame and double sheer are definitely necessary for longer-term use and getting the most out of this machine, I'll add them to my notes. Lowering the extruder was also mentioned, shouldn't be too hard if I flip it around. I've had lots of suggestions on improvements, so maybe I'll make another video applying all of them. Thanks for your suggestions! Cheers
you should look for LH-Stinger project there are lots of design mistakes in Ender 3 I wouldn't spend this much money on Ender 3 but get parts for LH-Stinger and build one...
The LH-Stinger is awesome and my primary motivation to add carbon fiber. I hear it's peak bed slinger performance and I don't doubt it one bit. I'm a huge fan of bed slingers and the project, so I'll see if getting one in the future is an option. Cheers
Rotating the print back I would think speed up the print by a few seconds because it aligns with the bedslinger movement vs a CoreXY printer. Enjoyed the video :)
You shouldn't use gluestick on a pei bed, just let it cool down and it will basically snap off the bed on itself and be rock solid on there when the bed is warm
the only part of ender 3 that remains is the frame, and is not suitable for this speeds, i reinforce my 3d printer with granite plates made for windows(you can find it on home depot ) and i double my speeds without any hardware upgrades, if u redirect the vibration into the stone the quality will be huge, i made a cage out of granite and i glue it with stone epoxy, and the entire frame i glue it to a marble plate 50x50cm, you can use any kind of stone, the only future that is missing to your printer is rigidity , i hope it helps, gl ;)
While I’d prefer not to do that to my machine just yet, I’ve heard it’s quite a powerful method. I’ll keep looking into ways I can improve the machine, it’s great fun and I appreciate your suggestion 😄 Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton it's basically a G10 bed but stiffer and lighter. Great stuff! PLA is difficult, PETG sticks like a dream and pops off when it's cold. Different resins make a difference though, and you have to wash it with dawn then rinse and rub with your hands until it squeaks
Very well done. I am planning a lot of similar things for my custom printer I am planning, like the AC bed and hopefully 48 V motors. However mine will be a core xy and hopefully be a tool changer. To make the tool changer portion easier I will be using CAN bus for the toolheads so I will only need 4 wires to each toolhead. I will be using Klipper too. I will be pushing for high temp materials (200 C bed and 500 C hot end with possibly infrared part heating rather than chamber heating, but I may just make a separate smaller printer for this) on the printer and probably high flow rates. I currently have an old ender 3 pro that I have previously upgraded that I will be using for testing, like learning how to use Klipper and AC beds before I build my own. I was very tempted to buy some Bambu Lab PPA-CF due to its high rigidity, strength and temperature resistance, in particular the bending modulus of over 9000 MPa which is significantly higher than most other filaments, something like that may be useful for you too but I would wait until there is a sale. If I had more time or possibly in the future I would look more into making a welded steel frame for the extra rigidity, nothing fancy and only the essential bits but a big problem with printers is rigidity, especially ones like the ender 3.
Thanks! A 48V toolchanger will be a beast of a machine, CAN should make things a lot easier, I've heard good things about it, but I'm yet to try it. The E3 in my opinion is a great platform for testing all of these things before going all out on a big machine. I'll look into Bambu Lab's filament, I haven't tried anything from them yet. A welded steel frame would certainly be the endgame, I'd very much like to try building a frame out of 3030 or 4040 extrusions first. All the best with your projects! Cheers
They were supposed to be more powerful, but it turns out that 12v ones are actually better than 24v ones... I've had no issues anyway and don't plan on replacing them, but for other machines I've looked into higher rpm 5015's since people speak highly of them. I'm running cpap and auxiliary on my next project (Ender 5) so that's gonna be fun. Cheers!
I’m not sure if the Manta E3EZ can do that too, but I know the drivers I’m running top out at 48v so they’re probably the limiting factor. I’ve seen some 60v movements and it’s crazy. Might have to try it one day. Cheers!
Can’t the octopus also have a separate DC supply for the bed? So 3 power supply inputs in total? One for the motors, one for the bed and one for everything else.
If that’s enabled then you’re exactly right, I’ve seen issues like this before but never had them myself until now. I’ll play around and see if it makes the difference. Thanks for mentioning it! Cheers
It's weird to hear people talk about printing high infill, since the vast majority of my prints have been 99-100% infill or 99 walls. Welcome to the high rigidity club!
At this point Ender 3's are just a modern version of the Ship of Theseus. I might look into your hotend extruder and swap mine! And yeah, for business I have replaced my enders but now that they are not critical for business I don't get (as) frustrated when tinkering on them.
I’m quite pleased with the extruder-hotend combo, but it’s a bit more premium than what I would spend myself. I’m certainly pleased with the performance though. I don’t have any working machines aside from the E3, I look forward to changing that so tinkering is a bit less risky haha. Cheers!
I respect that, speed is nothing without quality. For what I do, the faster I can get a decent prototype the better, although having a bit of accuracy is important too.
i would not print everything in resin, since a generic resin has a very low max temperature (sunlu for example has a max of 48C, then it offgasses toxic fumes) unless PCBway offers a high temp resin, but those are much more expensive ofc
Thanks for bringing this up! PCBWay does have a thermal resin, but it's a slightly different colour. Although it has a max temp of 130c vs 50-52c which the regular transparent has. If I get around to building the clear machine, I'll be cautious which parts are regular and high temp (or just regular filament/metal.) Cheers!
Thank you Scott! Bit a of a film but I didn’t want to cut too much “lore.” I really appreciate you checking this one out, shorter videos are planned for the foreseeable future. Cheers
I've got an STD6 ready for the ender 5, it's a unit of a hotend. I won't be running 9mm on there as I just bought some gates 6mm, but the creator of the Mercury 1.1 AWD mod I'll be trying to run is adding 9mm support, which I'll look into. For now I'll be keeping the E3 as is and then look into if I need to adjust some things. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton I use the STD6 and dual 3648 server fans with an active cooled Bondtech LGX lite PRO extruder and pushing 110mm³/sec on PLA :) That's on my Modix printers, but the RatRigs are soon to get an overhaul too :)
That's an incredible setup! I hope to get my STD6 up and running soon. I just took a look, and those Modix printers are ludicrous. I hope the RatRig overhauls go well!
Interesting video. I am NOT a tinkerer[?]. I just want it to work, and can do basic repairs and maintenance. But watching videos like these are fun. I currently have 4 printers. A mix bag, Ender 3 S1 Ender 2 Pro CR-10SMART Ender 3 V3 SE. Quality wise my Ender 2 Pro is the leader. Have fun with your next project.
I was considering Corexz, but it’s not something I would like to do to this machine anymore. I’ve got a few spare ABL probes that I could install that I need to get around to doing, and redo PA as it’s still set for the custom hotend and not the rapido. Cheers!
Real question though. Is it really still an ender 3? Like if you replace every part of a machine with upgraded parts, is it still the same machine? Or with computers. If you upgrade all of the components over time, and all that’s left is the case, is it a different computer?
I've had that brought up a lot, the experiment is called the ship of theseus. While the frame of the machine is still stock, everything else has pretty much been replaced. In my opinion, the the frame would need to replaced to produce a different machine, but it could be argued that even if the mainboard was swapped, it would be a different machine. It's fun to think about. Cheers!
If you mount your ender 3 down to something heavy the quality of print will go up with the speed test and maybe print some frame braces to add rigidity. anyways great work i am working on a tronxy x3s right now picked up 2 of them for $80 CAD its a cr10 clone just installed a octopus pro with the 5160 drivers and working on figuring out the accelerometer for input shaping
Frame braces are definitely a good idea, I'm looking into increased weight too. All the best with your X3s's! Sounds like they'll be quite capable. Cheers!
That’s a bit out of my expertise and priorities at the moment, sorry. I would highly recommend checking other channels (or web articles) that would have more in depth coverage. I honestly don’t have that much experience with anything other than PLA. Cheers
It’s possible since I don’t remember how long I set the minimum layer time, it might have been too long. I’ll reduce it in the future just to test. Cheers!
Definetly, I have a CPAP kit handy, but it needs to go on the reworked E5 in November. I think I need at least auxiliary cooling for this machine, and some 12v axials over the 24v ones. For some reason the current ones are lot less powerful. Cheers!
Hi Tommy, unsure if you'll see this. But I heard your comment about getting the parts printed in SLA resin and just thought I would let you know that's not a great idea. SLA resins get brittle over time so running them in this printer with such high accels will lead to a failure.
Hi there, I appreciate the concern. I'm aware It's certainly not a good idea, there's a larger list of cons than pros. I wouldn't be running it at high speeds with resin parts, the main goal would be it functioning, even if it's slow. Longevity isn't too important either, I don't really use my machines much when I'm not filming, as naive as this all sounds. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton Fair enough! Unsure if you have a resin printer already or not but I have a 3D printing business based in CHCH so if you'd like me to run some pieces off for you let me know! We have heaps of different types of resins from nylon like to high temp ceramic resins. Free of charge of course, would just like to see them in a video
Hi Stacy, I don't currently, but have one on the way for a review sometime very soon 🤞There'll be a video on that early next month assuming all goes well. It's awesome to hear about a local business! I'm actually up the top of the South. If I find a great project we could work on, I'll flick you an email on your site :) Cheers!
The LH Stinger is a beast, it was my primary reason for using carbon fibre. Hopefully I can get one eventually 🤞I'll look into more improvements. Cheers
You are the one to blame for me tearing my ender 3 apart to modify it again. Also, not sure what material you are using for the benchy, but abs should perform much better in a cooling limited scenario.
I'm using Jamg-He High Speed PLA+, I've found it's the "fastest" filament I currently own and prints nicely too. I've been recommended to get some ABS for printing as well, I'll look into a spool or two once the PLA+ runs out. Not sure if I'll have some in time for the E5 video but we'll see. Cheers!
Many upgrades a lot of money, but : Lack of quality (benchy at least), I understand its due to its speed, I want to see some slower prints and their quality. I want to see this printer max speeds while keeping same quality. Before anyone replys, I run my ender 3 (of course not stock) at 250mm/s 10k accel, while have
I definitely left the economical zone a while ago. This machine has had phases of excellent quality, but with so many parts being replaced It gets hard to pinpoint what's causing what. The most important steps I need to take is tensioning everything, bolting it down more, and actually using Orca's calibration tools. I have a bad habit of avoiding them. 250 @ 10K is excellent for everyday printing, I'll work on getting that as my baseline too. Cheers!
Honestly I think you should go with a stealthburner tool head as you have a rapido and its cooling is absolutely crazy with some mods. And on top of that it would look really nice with your setup
While I won't do that for this machine since I've finally got it refined enough to leave it, I definitely want to do it in the future. CPAP stealthburner would be awesome, I'm hoping to get my hands on a Voron 0 by early next year, which would allow me to undertake a variety of fun projects/mods. I'll keep you updated. Cheers!
Thanks! Here's the input shaper (ruclips.net/video/FBWj8q5e6Wo/видео.html) and sensorless homing videos (ruclips.net/video/l-jVkmGk6Mw/видео.html) , if there's another one I mentioned, let me know and I'll find it for you. Cheers!
I should have gone with those! They are only a couple of dollars more than the ones I went with. If I need to execute the other recommendations, I'll knock these out too. Thanks!
I hope to build one or similar within the next few years, there’s quite a few good options to choose from. There will definitely be a video on that once I accomplish it. Cheers
I've seen videos about carbon fiber and fiberglass filaments and it completely made me basically refuse to print with them. I'm posting this in case someone wants to use cf filaments, look into it first, the carbon fiber strand bits that are embeded in the filament piece the skin, get stuck in it, and pretty much never disaggregate.. For skin it's somewhat okay since bits not embeded deep will fall with dead skin, but if it gets in your lungs, it's there basically forever. I guess you might allready know about it Tommy, but in case you don't (and anyone else doesn't and prints with it), look into it.. This shit should be shipped with warnings and usage information (I own a bambulab x1c and I am so thankful for that random video I found about it, the x1c ships with a 250gr carbon fiber spool and there is no warning whatsoever on it about the potential harm, I did not open it)
Awesome! Long video, lots od tinkering and problem solving (including "stupid" mistakes), some hardware sexyness and the demonstration at the end. I couldn't ask for anything better. Will keep an eye on tour channel for sure. Cheers!
@@sethwalmsley5287 It’s fun to sneak into the videos and see who notices 😄. After losing two digital quads in the woods, I’m taking a break from the hobby but I hope to get back to it in the future. It’s great fun otherwise. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton Ouch... Money is the main reason I fly analog, but it makes buying and losing quads way less painful. I also had to take a break for a little bit just cause I was sinking way too much money into it.
@@sethwalmsley5287 I can agree with that, I loved flying analog; had a tank of a quad that I miss. Before focusing on media and more on 3D printing, FPV was the “sponge” for my income. Glad it’s relatable. I hope you get back into it seamlessly after your break!
Now that you mention it, I didn’t, I believe it was capped at 50k. That could have been the reason it wasn’t jumping around, but 500mm’s isn’t a super crazy speed on camera, so I’m not fully sure.
Awesome video, Tommy! It kept me entertained so I didn't notice it's length. You are good and patient with troubleshooting! Also love your pinned Q and As in the comments - very informative! 😀❤️
Your length of bowden from your extruder is way to long make a miunt that gives you a near direct drive mount by reducing the distance between extruder and hotend it will help with better quality and retractions. Tinkering with printers sure is fun but frustrating.
That's true, it's a bit further than I'd like, I think flipping the extruder around could let me lower the mount a bit more, that would probably help a lot. I'll look into it. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton glad to have helped ❤️ I had the same issue and it took me a bit of time to pinpoint this cause (but it was on marlin, maybe klipper works differently)
dude can get his printer working better than ever while i'm stuck here with a piece of crap that nobody with the knowledge is willing to help me get working
In all honesty, out of the 4 or 5 phases that this machine has had, the previous two were (albeit slower) a bit more reliable. Do you have any more details about your machine and issue? I’m not the most knowledgeable at troubleshooting so I would recommend discord as the best bet, but it depends on the issues and what you’ve already tried. Cheers
Mks makes a few that aren't bad. A and b models aren't made now, c model is $12, d model is like $18. They're weird though, and tend to overshoot. Not open source either despite their claims, so stuck with their bad firmware. I have the c and wouldn't consider it on a printer going over 50mm/s (but I'm gonna test it anyway lol) but the d might be better
@@TommyHoughton input shaping did wonders on mine as well! I'm cooking my Y stock Y stepper right now so I'm sure a chonkier stepper would let me push the acceleration way higher. anyways, keep up the crazy work!
@@dirkstrider8783 That’s great to hear! I almost didn’t do IS on my machine, I’m so glad I did as it was something like a 5x improvement. Crazy. All the best with your machine! I’ll keep doing silly projects. Cheers!
Crazy to see an Ender 3 move like that. 2 Things: I see PLA+ on the spool. Would Hyper/ rapid pla be better? The screws on the hot bed need to be countersunk a bit more to sit flush. (you can see them bulging up) Otherwise can't wait to see the Ender 5 video lol 🤪😁👍
It's quite fun to watch for sure. I'm using Jamg He Hi-Speed PLA+, I talk about it a little bit in the first Ender 5 video, I find it to be great stuff. I'm surprised you caught that, I thought it was almost unnoticeable. I'll redo them later and fix up the gantry, it needs some beefing up for sure. I'll try and post updates on the E5 video when I can, I think it'll be great. Cheers!
That’s very true, mounting it there would give the best results. I’ve actually never mounted one to the nozzle which is why I didn’t try it. I’ll watch a couple of videos on how to do that properly and knock that out. Cheers!
I have one on Orcaslicer, but for some reason Cura sliced parts go much faster so I used that instead. I use Orca on the daily since I prefer it, but in Cura I don't have purges enabled. Cheers!
With a few more hours of TLC I think It'll be a clear winner, but for now the main thing is it smashes most advertised speeds. It's still got some E3 left in it, which I hope to remove in the near future. We'll certainly see. Thanks for checking this one out! Cheers!
I don't have a link for those sorry, those are the stock pulleys on the Ender 3, and they're press fit onto the stepper motors. On Aliexpress, generic, GT2 6mm 20 Tooth Pulley's are what I use for motion. Cheers
ohh i hate 48v so much it started with me buying a planet igs5225-8p2s2x din rail switch for tinkering for relatively cheap. but i didnt know that it needed 48v just thought it ran on 24v so i had to pay almost as much as i paid for the switch to buy a 48v 320w meanwell psu
That's a very valid reason, one brightside is that you have a high quality power supply. I can't justify anything from meanwell just yet. Still an annoying situation for sure, I'm sorry that happened. Cheers
I'm glad to hear that. I'm terrible at mounting things so I hope you get it sorted. I've heard good things about Meanwell and have seen their products used frequently so I'm assuming they're a good company.
![ARGENTINA vs. PERÚ [1-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 12](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xtI25ENDDSY/mqdefault.jpg)
Q&A: (Might already have the answer)
Q: Just buy a Bambu Lab? A: No*
*(Realistically though, they are far too expensive locally, and even if I wanted one, I don’t need one.)
Q: Slightly modified? A: It’s basically stock.
Q: Why did you do this? A: Far too much fun.
Q: How much were the carbon fibre parts? A: 128.1$ (USD EXCLUDING SHIPPING.)
Q: My Bambu Lab can do that. A: I’m sure it can
Q: This is stupid. A: Fair enough, thanks for watching.
Q: I love this. A: Hell Yeah
Q: Should I do this? A: Absolutely Not.
Q: Why X Components? A: Personal choice and cool factor.
Q: Try CPAP cooling. A: Just you wait…
Q: I can print a faster benchy. A: Stay Tuned for November…
Q: What’s happening then? A: Redemption (Fastest Ender 5 [but faster])
Q: Just buy a Bambu Lab? A: Bambu Lab please send me anything, I’ll do anything.
Q: Total amount spent? A: I've had this machine for almost 4 years. Combining what I've spent + other companies' provided parts, I'd estimate over $1000 (NZD) easily.
I made quite a few mistakes in this video, I don't recommended you follow what I do, it's purely for entertainment and seeing what's possible. I enjoyed making this video, but as you can see it's quite a bit longer than usual. I don't intend for this to be the norm. I'm considering making a patreon or such for the directors cuts, and leaving the supercuts on YT. Otherwise it's a bit too much time to allocate. I feel the ending could have been improved, but with things ramping up, I'm comfortable to release it like this. If you have any questions or suggestions, I'd love to hear them as always. Cheers, Tommy.
Inspired by the LH Stinger, Monika McWuff, Nathan Builds Robots, Vez3D and many others. Thank you!
Buy a bambu
My bambu can do sub 5 minute benchies
@@LiamRay10 Your bambu is next level, especially with that custom hotend of yours
@@LiamRay10 So? As long as your having fun!
@@stevedegeorge726 it’s a joke, I emailed him with some info on improving the ender 5 and showed off my heavily modded bambulab P1P (I call it the P1S Plus). This is not a normal Bambu printer and it has blood sweat and tears put into it.
This kid understands why dads/old men never throw anything out, because when you do a week later you'll need it.
It's truuuuue bro :D
A week, you can throw it out after 20 years and the very next day you need it!
It's crazy that it applies to every guy out there that tinkers with crap.
And that 10mm socket just disappars
I dont tinker wity printers anymore these days due to time restraints, but its so great to see these projects! Living vicariously through you, thanks for the amazing content! And i LOVE the longer videos!
I really appreciate that, thank you! I always worry when posting longer videos, I won't stop with them, but I will start refining them a bit more. Not sure how this one reached 40m so quick haha, would have been longer if I addressed everything properly. Cheers!
it's not pushing Ender 3 to its limits, it's "engine swapping" Ender 3.
Pretty much! Just needa replace the frame and then there's no stock left...
Nah ls swapping ender 3
@@TommyHoughton saw a dude advertise a ender 3 converted to a ender 5 which was then converted to be a mercury one, which was then advertised as a "modified ender 3"
brotha, its not a ender 3 anymore 🤣
@ that I can agree with haha, that’s next level
Its the Ender 3 of Theseus
The Ender 3 is the AR-15 of 3D printers. Just so much you can do to it. Such a venerable printer.
I love the versatility, it's not the best, but having full CAD and 6 years of existence makes it an excellent test machine. Cheers!
I call it the Civic of 3d printers. *looking at what was once an ender3* now turned into a corexy with a sprite extruder, btt skr mini e3, klipper, happily printing bottle pet and partially integrated into home assistant.
Next up: rework electronics supply to supply 24v to board, 5v to klipper, and a 220 line to dryer, control the dryer with a microcontroller also connected to klipper, the 24v supply too and some better camera mounting angles.
Both the civic and AR comparisons are just wrong. Both civics and ARs are reliable out the gate. Good luck getting your ender 3 working well right out of the box
@@dudefromkeene that is a correct statement a long time ago, but with the ender 3v3se, it has been mostly plug and play. Other than changing the offset, they have been plug and play for me, love them so much I replaced my fleet with them.
As long as nothing you do with it matters and you do not value time.
So cool that you still use the Ender 3. Mine is sleeping since I got the Bambulab X1C, but I plan on upgrading the Ender 3 with Klipper and a second Z axis.
I started 3d printing 9 years ago and love to tinker with them. Keep it up. Love the video!
I really appreciate that, thanks! I’ll do my best. Cheers
This is not an Ender 3 anymore. It's a heavily modified bed slinger made with Ender 3 frame parts. But it's nice to watch your videos and you are a great tinkerer
It's an Ender 3 to anyone who owns one looking to upgrade their machine.
Myself owning a hevily modified E3 I can tell you that the plates holding the Z and Y linear rail blocks are insanely flexible. if you try to bend your system by holding the tip of your extruder and moving it forward and backward you'll see what I'm talking about. You could remake these pieces of your gantry with some wider and stiffer nylon prints. Love to all Ender 3 users 🤙😉
I've noticed they could definitely use some improvements, I'll look into printing some braces and tougher parts. Thanks for bringing it up! Cheers
40:00
Him: "Just because we're not printing that fast"
Printer: "Bro, I'm literally a blur"
Slightly modified
“Basically stock”
Yeah only just barely modified.
Can't be understated how much having nice tools makes projects like this nicer. All your tools seem like the cheap, possibly even free, kind that come with printers or a multi tool intended to be used for general maintenance. A nice tool kit might be a big quality of life improvement for projects like this
Yeah that’s true, I haven’t spent much on tools and most of them have been here a while. I’m looking into upgrading my kit over the next year with proper stuff. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton No problem, I only say it because I was the same! I didn't really think much of it, and either would use whatever I had without a second thought or specifically looked for the cheapest tools. (not to mention any sets I bought prior I had a habit of losing pieces from over time.. making me resist buying nice stuff)
It wasn't until I actually had a nice set of tools, that I actually went out of my way to ensure I took care to put everything back when I was done so I didn't lose things, that I realised how much nicer working on projects was. Good luck!
I can certainly resonate with that! I've lost and broken quite a few things over the years. Getting something sorted with gridfinity/foam/3d-printing is something high on my list for organising, as well as custom tools too. Once I refine my selection, I'll get to work on that, although with Black Friday sales right around the corner...
I look forward to getting it sorted. Thanks!
Shoutout to the fan that made this all possible
10:00 Allen keys getting stuck in screws is just the classic and mandatory Ender 3 experience...
I totally feel the issue with no printer working.
I keep one Ender 5 Plus on live support to be able to print while I prokrastinate on all other builds.
That's a good idea, I've got a printer coming in I hope to leave stock for reliability. Since I've had to tear down my E5 for the remake, and my other printers are either broken or unassembled, it's a bit of a rough spot if something goes wrong haha. Should get better in the future, especially if I improve the reliability of my machines too. We'll see how it goes. Cheers!
CB1 without heatsink gets really hot, although the fan blowing on it could be keeping it alive. Might want to check its temps with its in-built sensor.
It seems to be doing well so far, that fan I installed is keeping even the drivers cool at 2A. Will look into a heatsink if anything changes or it's getting hotter than expected. Cheers!
If you use PrusaSlicer, the delay between layers could be caused by the "Retract amount before wipe" setting. Set it to 0% to remove the delay.
I use OrcaSlicer, but that might have a similar setting too, I’ll look into it. Thanks for mentioning it! Cheers
That's funny, I'm waiting on some parts to do exactly this to my ender 3 v2. I'm not sure how much of it is still ender 3v2 anymore, but I love this little machine. Was debating going from 1 Y rail to two as I have the BLV kit, but for now, we'll try it out as it. First, going for Speed, then see how good I can maximize speed and quality.
I'll never buy bambu. And I love my vorons, but this printer is just fun to push hard.
Are the carbon fiber from pcb way and what thickness and max temperature did they support? Are they able to take the 110 c from a hot plate? Really interested in buying those
Yep, all CF stuff is from PCBWay. Max temp is supposedly 121c, unsure about max thickness, I believe I chose 2.5 for one and 3.5 for the other? 110c might be a bit too much, I haven't tested mine yet above ~80c. I'm sure their support would be able to answer any questions. Here's their "data sheet" site on CF: www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyping/cnc-machining/plastic/carbon-fiber/carbon-fiber-plate/
Cheers!
this dude needs wayyyyyy more subs!
Seeing the upgraded motors makes me want to upgrade the Y axis motor on my Ender 3. I think I could get a lot better speed with a better motor to move the heavy bed.
Cool project, always fun to see what people can do with the older ender 3s and 5s. I have been running my ender 5 for about 4 years now and have been tempted to just buy a Prusa or Bamboo printer.
But upgrading what I already have is more fun to me, I can see you have a similar approach.
Great video!
Thanks for checking it out! I've been really tempted recently to get an A1 mini, but I can't justify it enough to go for it. I'll keep the E3 on life support until something changes haha, it's been the only one that has survived.
Upgrading stuff is certainly fun, I quite like the community. I'll keep at it, there should be more fun projects in the future.
Cheers!
jeez it actually went ultra instinct. I have a voxelab aquila that I got from my grandma, but it's gonna turn into a speed printer (I will never use it for its speed I just want it to be able to)
Hey, cool video! You said you're probably not going to put any more time into the ender 3, but some things to keep in mind if you want to both improve speed and quality even more:
- your frame lacks rigidity at these high speeds, the y-axis aluminium extrusion was almost flopping around during the Benchy speed test, maybe some printed braces to "lock it down" to the rest of the frame in the front and in the back could help!
- also maybe a stone slab (more inert mass to the printer to cancel out high speed movements from printhead/printbed) and sth like the hula feet for vibration dampening can help with ringing :)
- while I'm happy to see that you went with the Dragon Ace hotend, your printhead could benefit from a more compact design; the 4020(?) axial fans are not that effective for part cooling and almost everyone switched to radial fans for a reason! maybe look into DragonBurner printhead or even the new-ish Yavoth printhead, both use dual 4010 radial fans and a very short filament path from the extruder, which also helps a lot with print quality!
- regarding bed adhesion issues, you should look into PEI beds (can be had quite cheaply nowadays) and drastically reduce sprint speed for the first layer, even for speed benchys, you can still up print speed after that, but if your print already fails first layer, print speed doesn't help ;)
Subscribed and am looking forward to seeing what you'll do with the ender 5! :D
I agree with all this :) except the hula feet. Apparently they impact IS in a negative direction more than a positive.
Nowadays, lots are switching back to axial fans, there are lots of very high power options available (most people use 3628s). I think Tommy's specific fans are just underpowered
@@Krautech Wrong! The flexible legs absorb the kinetic energy that the moving head assembly transfers to the frame.
If the legs are rigid, this vibration is not damped but only slowly and this is reflected in the printed object.
Look before you judge. I have not only looked, I have tried it.
@@mitsubishimakes Interesting! last I heard was the whole static pressure vs airspeed (and maybe noise? power consumption?) debate, where most people had come to the conclusion that radial fans are the better solution for us, even CPAP fans are basically big radial fans? haven't seen "modern" toolheads using axial fans in a while...
But yes, Tommy's fans/funnels seem like they could be improved if he wants to stay with the ultra-wide cooling haha
@@mitsubishimakes Delta FFB03612EHNYCL my beloved!
Hey bud, You may want to upgrade your belts to wider ones now that you are pushing higher speeds. They will have less rebound the wider they are.
That's a good call, shouldn't be too hard either. I'll add that to the list. Thanks for your feedback as always!
@@TommyHoughton Do you use Fusion 360? I cant remember. If so, let me know if you need a little help redesigning your extruder mount, and your tensioners. I always say to keep in mind how they will need to be printed while you design it so you can create certain angles and flat spots on them so the layer lines are in the right direction for strength. 30:46 If you tilt this part to the left and slice off some of it so there is a flat side there, then move the hole slightly over so they are diagonal from each other, you can then print that on that side for strength and stability. You can also design parts to fit together, so this part could be 3 pieces where all the parts are laid flat on build plate and then assembled after. Lots of little tricks to make them stronger when designing.
Yeah I do. A redesign of the extruder stuff would be very beneficial, but not something I'm focusing on right now. (Ironically it's broken and causing me issues but I just can't allocate the effort.) Thanks for the tips with the print and design strength, I've never taken it into consideration when designing parts, not sure why. I do when slicing. "Multi-Assembly" parts are a bit intimidating as more things to design and more parts overall, but I will put some time into learning more about how I can improve my parts, it would definitely help in the long run. I'll keep you updated with any notable changes. I'm putting everything I currently can into my Ender 5, but encountering little setbacks here and there, I'll post a community update early next week. Cheers!
My questions got answered. An Ender 3 today makes absolutely no sense
I can agree with that.
Nice build, but there are a lot of things that can be improved. first is to stiffen up the Y axis and Z axis extrusions big time, with beefier motors comes with greater amounts of force that the frame has to endure, bracing should help a lot here. second is your motor mounts, you cant tension your belts very much without supporting the shaft (maybe 2 pounds of tension max), Double shear motor mounts should help with this and it makes your motors run smoother and less fatiguing of the shafts. I would also bring that extruder as close to the inlet of the hotend as possible, it both reduces the filament path and brings the tool head center of mass closer to the rail carriage which is what you want. I cant wait to see what this becomes and evolves into! and ofc I had to subscribe!
Higher stiffness/rigidity for the frame and double sheer are definitely necessary for longer-term use and getting the most out of this machine, I'll add them to my notes. Lowering the extruder was also mentioned, shouldn't be too hard if I flip it around. I've had lots of suggestions on improvements, so maybe I'll make another video applying all of them. Thanks for your suggestions! Cheers
you should look for LH-Stinger project there are lots of design mistakes in Ender 3 I wouldn't spend this much money on Ender 3 but get parts for LH-Stinger and build one...
The LH-Stinger is awesome and my primary motivation to add carbon fiber. I hear it's peak bed slinger performance and I don't doubt it one bit. I'm a huge fan of bed slingers and the project, so I'll see if getting one in the future is an option. Cheers
Rotating the print back I would think speed up the print by a few seconds because it aligns with the bedslinger movement vs a CoreXY printer. Enjoyed the video :)
It's a bit hard to see in the video, but I angled it about 30-40 degrees for that, it's a good tip :D Thanks for checking it out! Cheers!
The American version of Stephan from CNCKITCHEN 😂❤
I'm not sure what that means, but thank you :) Prost!
Ayo, American? You better watch it buster, cause he's a kiwi.
Damn that was my first thougt 😂
You shouldn't use gluestick on a pei bed, just let it cool down and it will basically snap off the bed on itself and be rock solid on there when the bed is warm
Thanks for the tip! I’ll try doing that, I’m very used to putting gluestick on everything. Cheers
Have you checked the Ender 3 NG? Its a core XY convertion for the ender 3 that might fun for you. Also SPEED
I have, it's an interesting (and very cool) conversion, but not something I'll be doing to this machine. Maybe if I get another Ender 3. Cheers!
the only part of ender 3 that remains is the frame, and is not suitable for this speeds, i reinforce my 3d printer with granite plates made for windows(you can find it on home depot ) and i double my speeds without any hardware upgrades, if u redirect the vibration into the stone the quality will be huge, i made a cage out of granite and i glue it with stone epoxy, and the entire frame i glue it to a marble plate 50x50cm, you can use any kind of stone, the only future that is missing to your printer is rigidity , i hope it helps, gl ;)
While I’d prefer not to do that to my machine just yet, I’ve heard it’s quite a powerful method. I’ll keep looking into ways I can improve the machine, it’s great fun and I appreciate your suggestion 😄 Cheers!
Can you print straight on the carbon fiber bed? I have seen others do it, and you could reduce the bed weight even more. Great job though!
I believe so! Someone mentioned a specific filament (Nylon? PC?) that would stick really well. Then I could get some insane speeds for sure. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton it's basically a G10 bed but stiffer and lighter. Great stuff! PLA is difficult, PETG sticks like a dream and pops off when it's cold. Different resins make a difference though, and you have to wash it with dawn then rinse and rub with your hands until it squeaks
Very well done.
I am planning a lot of similar things for my custom printer I am planning, like the AC bed and hopefully 48 V motors. However mine will be a core xy and hopefully be a tool changer. To make the tool changer portion easier I will be using CAN bus for the toolheads so I will only need 4 wires to each toolhead. I will be using Klipper too. I will be pushing for high temp materials (200 C bed and 500 C hot end with possibly infrared part heating rather than chamber heating, but I may just make a separate smaller printer for this) on the printer and probably high flow rates.
I currently have an old ender 3 pro that I have previously upgraded that I will be using for testing, like learning how to use Klipper and AC beds before I build my own.
I was very tempted to buy some Bambu Lab PPA-CF due to its high rigidity, strength and temperature resistance, in particular the bending modulus of over 9000 MPa which is significantly higher than most other filaments, something like that may be useful for you too but I would wait until there is a sale.
If I had more time or possibly in the future I would look more into making a welded steel frame for the extra rigidity, nothing fancy and only the essential bits but a big problem with printers is rigidity, especially ones like the ender 3.
Thanks!
A 48V toolchanger will be a beast of a machine, CAN should make things a lot easier, I've heard good things about it, but I'm yet to try it.
The E3 in my opinion is a great platform for testing all of these things before going all out on a big machine.
I'll look into Bambu Lab's filament, I haven't tried anything from them yet.
A welded steel frame would certainly be the endgame, I'd very much like to try building a frame out of 3030 or 4040 extrusions first.
All the best with your projects!
Cheers
Another big bonus of steel is wright. Heavy printers take more to shake!
very nice, coming along nicely.
This is insane. Like putting a nuclear reactor in a civic
And the results are just is laughable...
You really need to replace those hotend cooling fans with blower fans, more airflow and air pressure.
They were supposed to be more powerful, but it turns out that 12v ones are actually better than 24v ones... I've had no issues anyway and don't plan on replacing them, but for other machines I've looked into higher rpm 5015's since people speak highly of them. I'm running cpap and auxiliary on my next project (Ender 5) so that's gonna be fun. Cheers!
With the Octopus board you can have a 24v powersupply for the board and toolhead and then a 60v powersupply for the motors and 5160pro stepper drivers
I’m not sure if the Manta E3EZ can do that too, but I know the drivers I’m running top out at 48v so they’re probably the limiting factor. I’ve seen some 60v movements and it’s crazy. Might have to try it one day. Cheers!
Can’t the octopus also have a separate DC supply for the bed? So 3 power supply inputs in total? One for the motors, one for the bed and one for everything else.
Not sure if you fixed it, but it might be pausing after every layer if you have power failure recovery enabled
If that’s enabled then you’re exactly right, I’ve seen issues like this before but never had them myself until now. I’ll play around and see if it makes the difference. Thanks for mentioning it! Cheers
It's weird to hear people talk about printing high infill, since the vast majority of my prints have been 99-100% infill or 99 walls.
Welcome to the high rigidity club!
At this point Ender 3's are just a modern version of the Ship of Theseus. I might look into your hotend extruder and swap mine!
And yeah, for business I have replaced my enders but now that they are not critical for business I don't get (as) frustrated when tinkering on them.
I’m quite pleased with the extruder-hotend combo, but it’s a bit more premium than what I would spend myself. I’m certainly pleased with the performance though.
I don’t have any working machines aside from the E3, I look forward to changing that so tinkering is a bit less risky haha. Cheers!
Personally I go for quality not speed
I respect that, speed is nothing without quality. For what I do, the faster I can get a decent prototype the better, although having a bit of accuracy is important too.
Why not both?
Get a bambu and you'll get both
@totem35 properly tuned printer can do fast clean prints.
My ender 3 s1 does 200mm/s at 4k accel with perfect quality.
@@UNVME okay? An X or P series printer can do better than that, especially on the accel right out of the box.
i would not print everything in resin, since a generic resin has a very low max temperature (sunlu for example has a max of 48C, then it offgasses toxic fumes)
unless PCBway offers a high temp resin, but those are much more expensive ofc
Thanks for bringing this up! PCBWay does have a thermal resin, but it's a slightly different colour. Although it has a max temp of 130c vs 50-52c which the regular transparent has. If I get around to building the clear machine, I'll be cautious which parts are regular and high temp (or just regular filament/metal.) Cheers!
What a ride. Nice work Tommy
Thank you Scott! Bit a of a film but I didn’t want to cut too much “lore.” I really appreciate you checking this one out, shorter videos are planned for the foreseeable future. Cheers
Have a look at the STD6 hotend and at least 9mm belts.
The Rapido is pretty slow compared
I've got an STD6 ready for the ender 5, it's a unit of a hotend. I won't be running 9mm on there as I just bought some gates 6mm, but the creator of the Mercury 1.1 AWD mod I'll be trying to run is adding 9mm support, which I'll look into. For now I'll be keeping the E3 as is and then look into if I need to adjust some things. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton I use the STD6 and dual 3648 server fans with an active cooled Bondtech LGX lite PRO extruder and pushing 110mm³/sec on PLA :)
That's on my Modix printers, but the RatRigs are soon to get an overhaul too :)
That's an incredible setup! I hope to get my STD6 up and running soon. I just took a look, and those Modix printers are ludicrous. I hope the RatRig overhauls go well!
@@TommyHoughton I might put up a video about it, but YT is not my main community ;)
@@creativitybyph that’s no problem, I took a look at your instagram, awesome stuff there 😄
that psu flopping around lol.
Interesting video.
I am NOT a tinkerer[?]. I just want it to work, and can do basic repairs and maintenance.
But watching videos like these are fun.
I currently have 4 printers. A mix bag,
Ender 3 S1
Ender 2 Pro
CR-10SMART
Ender 3 V3 SE.
Quality wise my Ender 2 Pro is the leader.
Have fun with your next project.
You should install an ABL like Klicky Probe and tune pressure advance.
Also a corexz conversion.
I was considering Corexz, but it’s not something I would like to do to this machine anymore. I’ve got a few spare ABL probes that I could install that I need to get around to doing, and redo PA as it’s still set for the custom hotend and not the rapido. Cheers!
Real question though. Is it really still an ender 3? Like if you replace every part of a machine with upgraded parts, is it still the same machine? Or with computers. If you upgrade all of the components over time, and all that’s left is the case, is it a different computer?
I've had that brought up a lot, the experiment is called the ship of theseus. While the frame of the machine is still stock, everything else has pretty much been replaced. In my opinion, the the frame would need to replaced to produce a different machine, but it could be argued that even if the mainboard was swapped, it would be a different machine. It's fun to think about. Cheers!
IT IS the Same as with Tuning Cars.
If you have an old car and Change Motor, Gear, suspension, Breaks and wheels IT IS still the "old car".
But....
Well... that's a really fun project... it is amazing how you've done it
literally the best youtuber who else is pushing these boundaries
If you mount your ender 3 down to something heavy the quality of print will go up with the speed test and maybe print some frame braces to add rigidity. anyways great work i am working on a tronxy x3s right now picked up 2 of them for $80 CAD its a cr10 clone just installed a octopus pro with the 5160 drivers and working on figuring out the accelerometer for input shaping
Frame braces are definitely a good idea, I'm looking into increased weight too. All the best with your X3s's! Sounds like they'll be quite capable. Cheers!
Great mod keep up the great vids look forward to every new vid thanks tommy
Could you make a video on what settings you use for your different filaments like the petg cf?
That’s a bit out of my expertise and priorities at the moment, sorry. I would highly recommend checking other channels (or web articles) that would have more in depth coverage. I honestly don’t have that much experience with anything other than PLA. Cheers
The pause at layer change is it minimum layer time to make sure it is sufficiently cooled?
It’s possible since I don’t remember how long I set the minimum layer time, it might have been too long. I’ll reduce it in the future just to test. Cheers!
Cooling still needs a massive upgrade I think. Maybe CPAP?
Definetly, I have a CPAP kit handy, but it needs to go on the reworked E5 in November. I think I need at least auxiliary cooling for this machine, and some 12v axials over the 24v ones. For some reason the current ones are lot less powerful. Cheers!
Been waiting for this!
I’d love to hear your thoughts on it! I hope it lives up to your expectations 🤞Cheers
Hi Tommy, unsure if you'll see this. But I heard your comment about getting the parts printed in SLA resin and just thought I would let you know that's not a great idea. SLA resins get brittle over time so running them in this printer with such high accels will lead to a failure.
Hi there, I appreciate the concern. I'm aware It's certainly not a good idea, there's a larger list of cons than pros. I wouldn't be running it at high speeds with resin parts, the main goal would be it functioning, even if it's slow. Longevity isn't too important either, I don't really use my machines much when I'm not filming, as naive as this all sounds. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton Fair enough! Unsure if you have a resin printer already or not but I have a 3D printing business based in CHCH so if you'd like me to run some pieces off for you let me know! We have heaps of different types of resins from nylon like to high temp ceramic resins. Free of charge of course, would just like to see them in a video
Hi Stacy, I don't currently, but have one on the way for a review sometime very soon 🤞There'll be a video on that early next month assuming all goes well. It's awesome to hear about a local business! I'm actually up the top of the South. If I find a great project we could work on, I'll flick you an email on your site :) Cheers!
Great job fellow ender3 obsessed pilot (ethix prop tool gave u away), on my way to a similar setup on my ender.
Haha, I’m glad you spotted it, currently only 3 people have brought it up. All the best with your machine! Cheers
check out the LH Stinger, you could borrow some idea from that project
The LH Stinger is a beast, it was my primary reason for using carbon fibre. Hopefully I can get one eventually 🤞I'll look into more improvements. Cheers
Is this practical in any way, shape or form? Maybe not.
Is it cool as heck? Absolutely!
Very very cool! Awesome work!
You are the one to blame for me tearing my ender 3 apart to modify it again. Also, not sure what material you are using for the benchy, but abs should perform much better in a cooling limited scenario.
I'm using Jamg-He High Speed PLA+, I've found it's the "fastest" filament I currently own and prints nicely too. I've been recommended to get some ABS for printing as well, I'll look into a spool or two once the PLA+ runs out. Not sure if I'll have some in time for the E5 video but we'll see. Cheers!
Fun video brother. Keep up the frankensteining
So, were I to mount the belts to the bed and loop them.. I would wrap them so that the belt teeth interlock and apply the ziptie
That’s the best method for sure, much simpler than using custom parts.
Many upgrades a lot of money, but :
Lack of quality (benchy at least), I understand its due to its speed, I want to see some slower prints and their quality.
I want to see this printer max speeds while keeping same quality.
Before anyone replys, I run my ender 3 (of course not stock) at 250mm/s 10k accel, while have
I definitely left the economical zone a while ago. This machine has had phases of excellent quality, but with so many parts being replaced It gets hard to pinpoint what's causing what.
The most important steps I need to take is tensioning everything, bolting it down more, and actually using Orca's calibration tools. I have a bad habit of avoiding them.
250 @ 10K is excellent for everyday printing, I'll work on getting that as my baseline too. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton good luck, looking forward to seeing it print at thar speed
Honestly I think you should go with a stealthburner tool head as you have a rapido and its cooling is absolutely crazy with some mods. And on top of that it would look really nice with your setup
It would be fun to watch you Graft one on with CPAP
While I won't do that for this machine since I've finally got it refined enough to leave it, I definitely want to do it in the future. CPAP stealthburner would be awesome, I'm hoping to get my hands on a Voron 0 by early next year, which would allow me to undertake a variety of fun projects/mods. I'll keep you updated. Cheers!
How hard would it be to get it to time itself ? little mini project for you
As in to time the prints and such? I believe Klipper does that, so maybe a plugin to control a little lcd could achieve that.
Nice project. Would you post the tutorials you mentioned?
Thanks! Here's the input shaper (ruclips.net/video/FBWj8q5e6Wo/видео.html) and sensorless homing videos (ruclips.net/video/l-jVkmGk6Mw/видео.html) , if there's another one I mentioned, let me know and I'll find it for you. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton Thank you. Looking forward to more fun projects like yours 😃
U want airflow on ur part cooling? Try arctic s4028-6k or s4028-15k. Trust me, the 15k are trusting themself away easily xD
I should have gone with those! They are only a couple of dollars more than the ones I went with. If I need to execute the other recommendations, I'll knock these out too. Thanks!
Amazing video as always. What a journey that was!
Not much left of the original ender 3, I bett you can build a printer of the leftovers ;)
Let’s gooooooo. More ender 3 mods!!
Build a ratrig and you'll never go back, my ender and bibo have been gathering dust for years.
I hope to build one or similar within the next few years, there’s quite a few good options to choose from. There will definitely be a video on that once I accomplish it. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton You will not regret it!
I've seen videos about carbon fiber and fiberglass filaments and it completely made me basically refuse to print with them. I'm posting this in case someone wants to use cf filaments, look into it first, the carbon fiber strand bits that are embeded in the filament piece the skin, get stuck in it, and pretty much never disaggregate.. For skin it's somewhat okay since bits not embeded deep will fall with dead skin, but if it gets in your lungs, it's there basically forever. I guess you might allready know about it Tommy, but in case you don't (and anyone else doesn't and prints with it), look into it.. This shit should be shipped with warnings and usage information (I own a bambulab x1c and I am so thankful for that random video I found about it, the x1c ships with a 250gr carbon fiber spool and there is no warning whatsoever on it about the potential harm, I did not open it)
Awesome! Long video, lots od tinkering and problem solving (including "stupid" mistakes), some hardware sexyness and the demonstration at the end. I couldn't ask for anything better. Will keep an eye on tour channel for sure. Cheers!
Thank you! You’ve summed it up excellently, I’m really pleased you enjoyed it. I’ll try keep this style for the future. Cheers!
Only realised you did FPV from the ethix prop tool at 2:50
@@sethwalmsley5287 It’s fun to sneak into the videos and see who notices 😄. After losing two digital quads in the woods, I’m taking a break from the hobby but I hope to get back to it in the future. It’s great fun otherwise. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton Ouch... Money is the main reason I fly analog, but it makes buying and losing quads way less painful.
I also had to take a break for a little bit just cause I was sinking way too much money into it.
@@sethwalmsley5287 I can agree with that, I loved flying analog; had a tank of a quad that I miss. Before focusing on media and more on 3D printing, FPV was the “sponge” for my income. Glad it’s relatable. I hope you get back into it seamlessly after your break!
Did you set the max accel in the config to the 100k accel? It seems a bit slow for that much acceleration to me, but I might be tripping
Now that you mention it, I didn’t, I believe it was capped at 50k. That could have been the reason it wasn’t jumping around, but 500mm’s isn’t a super crazy speed on camera, so I’m not fully sure.
Awesome video, Tommy! It kept me entertained so I didn't notice it's length. You are good and patient with troubleshooting! Also love your pinned Q and As in the comments - very informative! 😀❤️
Thanks for watching, Auntie!
Your length of bowden from your extruder is way to long make a miunt that gives you a near direct drive mount by reducing the distance between extruder and hotend it will help with better quality and retractions. Tinkering with printers sure is fun but frustrating.
That's true, it's a bit further than I'd like, I think flipping the extruder around could let me lower the mount a bit more, that would probably help a lot. I'll look into it. Cheers!
35:35 it might be the powerloss recovery, try disabling it
That's the most likely cause, I'll look into it, thanks!
@@TommyHoughton glad to have helped ❤️ I had the same issue and it took me a bit of time to pinpoint this cause (but it was on marlin, maybe klipper works differently)
dude can get his printer working better than ever while i'm stuck here with a piece of crap that nobody with the knowledge is willing to help me get working
In all honesty, out of the 4 or 5 phases that this machine has had, the previous two were (albeit slower) a bit more reliable. Do you have any more details about your machine and issue? I’m not the most knowledgeable at troubleshooting so I would recommend discord as the best bet, but it depends on the issues and what you’ve already tried. Cheers
yaaaay lets print an object that slightly resembles the stl
incredibly talented young man
I'm kinda curious about closed loop steppers with brakes, could be useful, I have a cr10 max so I got a bit more weight to shove around.
That would be fun to play around with, a machine like the Cr10 max could utilize them well. I might look into them in the future.
Mks makes a few that aren't bad. A and b models aren't made now, c model is $12, d model is like $18. They're weird though, and tend to overshoot. Not open source either despite their claims, so stuck with their bad firmware. I have the c and wouldn't consider it on a printer going over 50mm/s (but I'm gonna test it anyway lol) but the d might be better
and I thought my ender 3 was clapped. this thing is incredible. I definitely gotta upgrade my stepper motors now.
Honestly, Klipper, input shaper and higher current for the steppers is the most value packed upgrade set, that and a cht nozzle. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton input shaping did wonders on mine as well! I'm cooking my Y stock Y stepper right now so I'm sure a chonkier stepper would let me push the acceleration way higher.
anyways, keep up the crazy work!
@@dirkstrider8783 That’s great to hear! I almost didn’t do IS on my machine, I’m so glad I did as it was something like a 5x improvement. Crazy. All the best with your machine! I’ll keep doing silly projects. Cheers!
Crazy to see an Ender 3 move like that.
2 Things:
I see PLA+ on the spool. Would Hyper/ rapid pla be better?
The screws on the hot bed need to be countersunk a bit more to sit flush. (you can see them bulging up)
Otherwise can't wait to see the Ender 5 video lol 🤪😁👍
It's quite fun to watch for sure.
I'm using Jamg He Hi-Speed PLA+, I talk about it a little bit in the first Ender 5 video, I find it to be great stuff.
I'm surprised you caught that, I thought it was almost unnoticeable. I'll redo them later and fix up the gantry, it needs some beefing up for sure.
I'll try and post updates on the E5 video when I can, I think it'll be great.
Cheers!
That part cooling fan looks very ultimaker 2 :D
OMG what insane speed! ahaha, JK great job! Thank you for being part of the 3D printing community and keep the DIY spirit alive.
also I did a 6:17 on a very slightly modified ender3 running marlin
I just watched your video, awesome stuff. I might have to take some inspiration and add some auxiliary cooling too. Cheers!
11min on my m5pro flashforge is way more quality. You should simplify. Do it for ender2pro. Smaller and more atomic power
nozzle is pretty long, even if you add an accelerometer you gotta mount it to the nozzle tip with all that jerk lol
That’s very true, mounting it there would give the best results. I’ve actually never mounted one to the nozzle which is why I didn’t try it. I’ll watch a couple of videos on how to do that properly and knock that out. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton Your video is so cool, thank you for taking my advice :)
In your starting gcode you might need a purge line
I have one on Orcaslicer, but for some reason Cura sliced parts go much faster so I used that instead. I use Orca on the daily since I prefer it, but in Cura I don't have purges enabled. Cheers!
You got something made by Crapality to work, that's pretty much the best you can hope for.
Is that even an Ender 3 anymore? Its better than the most recent Ender 3 V3.
With a few more hours of TLC I think It'll be a clear winner, but for now the main thing is it smashes most advertised speeds. It's still got some E3 left in it, which I hope to remove in the near future. We'll certainly see. Thanks for checking this one out! Cheers!
Wait so you 3d printer uses 12V parts 24V parts and 48V parts, that's just crazy
This is insane!
In the best possible way!
What pulleys are you using? I'm referring to 1:55. Could you provide the link for purchase?
I don't have a link for those sorry, those are the stock pulleys on the Ender 3, and they're press fit onto the stepper motors. On Aliexpress, generic, GT2 6mm 20 Tooth Pulley's are what I use for motion. Cheers
ohh i hate 48v so much it started with me buying a planet igs5225-8p2s2x din rail switch for tinkering for relatively cheap. but i didnt know that it needed 48v just thought it ran on 24v so i had to pay almost as much as i paid for the switch to buy a 48v 320w meanwell psu
That's a very valid reason, one brightside is that you have a high quality power supply. I can't justify anything from meanwell just yet. Still an annoying situation for sure, I'm sorry that happened. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton im pretty happy of it now, just need to find a way to mount the psu in the rack. also is meanwell that high quality?
I'm glad to hear that. I'm terrible at mounting things so I hope you get it sorted. I've heard good things about Meanwell and have seen their products used frequently so I'm assuming they're a good company.