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good point, I should have printed something worthy. Cheers

It's definitely not suitable for smaller models but for large objects it's a game changer. Although the Ender 3 really limits the use cases with its build volume. I'll be testing what I can really achieve with it for my next project. Cheers!

I did try, but even at 480C° it wouldn't melt, presumably because the heaters can supposedly reach 500C° and therefor something much crazier than regular or silver solder is used. Really annoying. I didn't want to risk ripping them out either. Cheers!

They add up quick, but for prototyping it can be justified. Much cheaper than purchasing the equipment, skill and time. I believe I chamfered most of the part edges too, which increases the price by a lot. It’s completely understandable that’s it’s still quite the sum. Cheers!

Good idea, that and a glass fibre sleeve will work well. Cheers!

It's grown on me quickly, stay tuned for the next episode which will have some actual speed printing! All the best with your projects! Cheers!

Good idea! I think I found some of it for cheap, that combined with some of the other methods I've been recommended will work amazing. Cheers!

@@TommyHoughton np. I use the stuff meant for auto body repair for insulating my print bed and heater block for my PPS and beyond printer, works well and last hundreds of hours at over 330c.

The A1 is an excellent machine, for printing > Tinkering it’s way better than the Ender 3. I’ll keep upgrading this machine till I break it! I wish you the best with your videos and projects! Cheers

I had my doubts, I think there’s a dedicated watertight model available, I’ll look into it for the future. Cheers

I can agree with that. I’m willing to take the risk with these cheaper relays for now, but the sooner I can upgrade to a proper one, the better.

I made a small one for the nozzle, but another one would be useful for the heatbreak since both dimensions were a bit wrong. I think I'm out of the spacers though. That's possible, but I made sure the threads were all the same when CAD, I think I'm just terrible at hot tightening. A bambu style clip would be fantastic, but I haven't found anything larger, and I don't know the exact term to find other types. Cheers!

Oh one more suggestion is to support the hotend better. You are putting a lot of stress on the heatbreak and while it does still print, you will notice artifacts as you progress, from the nozzle deflecting. Check out hotends which address this by using triplex stabilizers. Like peopoly Lancer hotend, do yourself a favor and look to that one for inspiration. It isn't long enough, but everything else about it, they did right.

Thanks for bringing this up, I do have a couple of standard nozzles that I can test out. I believe I've heard of this in the past so it doesn't surprise me. I'm glad to hear someone's tried using multiple CHC Pro's, I thought it would be crazy, but well worth a go. I'll look into multiple thermistor support so that I can mount at least two thermistors in the future. Is there an article or such that helped you with the config side of things? I've never fully looked into it, but keeping the correct temps throughout the entirety of the block is worth pursuing for sure. I haven't much about this topic so I'm keen to learn more. Since I got up to 90mm³/s being conservative, I think that's a good estimate. Your setup sounds extremely efficient for what you're doing. That's awesome. I think you're right about diminishing returns, I wouldn't dare go any longer, despite how appealing 100mm heaters seemed. I'm looking at finding an in-between around 50mm, and optimising as much as possible. I would've loved to have seen a 5x stacked CHC Pro, it would be surreal. That's a really good explanation, most likely what happened too. I'll make sure future mounting has no compromises. I must get my hands on some boron nitride paste, it's been spoken very highly of. Thank you so much for this constructive feedback and information, this will help me immensely! I appreciate the time you took to write it all. Cheers!

More supports are planned, it was a key flaw of this build. I’m interested to see how bad it gets. I’ll look into getting one! It’s a great value model what I’ve heard. Thanks again!

PID auto tuning multiple zones that are thermally coupled can be problematic, may require some manual adjustments.

@@TommyHoughton I'm trying to answer your question about multiple thermistor multiple zone heating but youtube keeps deleting my comments and I don't know why. This such a bad platform for exchanging ideas. Do you have a discord or something?

I don't think so, It's not a machine I'd go out of my way to get, and I have my doubts about Anycubic sending one out for a video. Cheers

I'm installing it in the next video, I had too much stuff to do, and the timeframe wasn't looking good enough. I hope to release the next video by the end of this month. Cheers

@TommyHoughton It would be nice if you fix the cooling system in the next video. to fix it you should: 1 put some silicone plumbers between the radiator and the hose connection, 2 where the 2 water pipes join, you should go to the hardware store and buy 2 reducers and 4 metal clamps (the ones that tighten and open by turning a screw with a screwdriver), 3 I recommend you put the pump and radiator in the back of the printer, so you will have more free space and height in the z, 4 specific attachments are needed to fix the ptfe tubes to the radiator , similar to these, but have more stability and a rubber band inside

I appreciate your suggestions, I'll see what I can do but I can't promise anything. Putting the pump and radiator at the back would be a great idea.

@TommyHoughton I hope you can fix it. Anyway if you don't make videos in calligraphy with pcbway, try to have the parts printed by jclpcb, it's the same as pcbway, only having the pieces printed costs a lot less because it's in China, for me a piece in steel costs me $32 on pcbway and instead $8 on jclpcb. instead regarding shipping the rates and times are the same for me who live in Italy. Also if you find a problem in the files, contact them with the online chat and they will fix it and re-stamp the files for free, they are super helpful

I did a retraction tower, but it kind of melted haha. Will try dialling it in the next video. Cheers!

I’ll keep working on it until it breaks. Thanks for checking it out! Cheers

memory heatsink clips would work well for heater clips

@@cwb43068 Those would be great too! I’ll see what I can find.

@@TommyHoughton Youve sparked some thoughts in my head on heater options, currently in fusion drawing it up. Ill send it off to my machinest buddy and see what I come up with. I have a thermal imaging camera so I can do some real life temp modeling on the hot end for design changes.

I was thinking those black squeeze binder clips, the smaller version, for holding those ceramic heaters on.

@@wadecrawford6445 For the smaller version they might work, but the ones I had on hand weren’t staying on properly. There’s a lot of options for them though which is good.

Someone else also suggested a bondtech CHT nozzle, I'll consider it for the future. A tighter tolerance would help as well, I should maybe get some boron nitride paste too. Thanks for watching and your comments!

That's an interesting option, it would be more durable and hold better. I'll see what I can do. Cheers!

Thanks Scott! There's been some amazing feedback on this one which has been awesome. I can't wait to advance. Cheers!

Thanks! I actually received an STD6 and Rapido Ace from Trianglelab a couple of days ago! The STD6 is going on the Ender 5. It's a huge device, can't wait to test it. Good tip with the clip and thermal paste, the new Rapido hotends have some design choices that I should take inspiration from. Cheers!

Thanks for your comment! I haven't tried any of Bondtech's nozzles yet, I should be fair and give them a go. Originally the plan was to use a tube-style thermistor, but I changed to a glass thermistor as I was unsure. I should have followed through. Yeah, those wires need better management, they definitely shorted on something. Good idea! I need to get a tube or two of high-temperature silicone to make a sock and insulate everything. We'll see if I continue using this block or try to make it again but better. I don't do a ton of printing anyway so a glass fibre sleeve would actually be an excellent solution. That is too true, I think a design in between the small and large one would be the best of both worlds. The stress on the heatbreak is something I'm looking into, I haven't printed anything too fast just yet, so I'll be monitoring it closely in the next video. That's a possibility. I haven't played around with tuning it and such just yet. I can always increase the current and add a heatsink but we'll see what problems arise first. Thank you for your constructive feedback and ideas! I really appreciate it! Cheers

Great idea! I didn't know the name of those so I couldn't find any. Definitely a better solution over tape. Thanks for suggesting! Cheers!

It's an excellent option, much better than this. This contraption turns out to be around the same price as the Goliath but more hassle which knocks it down quite a few points. Hopefully I can get my hands on a Goliath in the future. Cheers!

​@@TommyHoughtondon't waste your money on Goliath. I have one and it won't even come close to what you have made.

Luckily they didn't, but I really didn't like them, especially on the big heaters. I tried to solder new ones but could not get the solder to melt onto them. Assuming these heaters can actually do 500c, they're probably using some extreme high temp solder that I'd need a heat gun to melt. Cheers!

@@TommyHoughton heaters unavoidable for now but I meant the ones feeding the relay

@@jakobfindlay4136 Thanks for the clarification, yeah they're a bit too small for this job, I'll swap them for smaller AWG wires.

That's a great setup! Is the 40W enough for what you're doing? I recently picked up an 80W cartridge heater from I think Kingroon? But I believe Mellow now makes 100W ones which is crazy. Thanks for watching! Cheers!

It's more expensive than it too, but it's much smaller and I like the design over the SuperVolcano. It's certainly easier to buy a supervolcano and get extremely high flow; lots of great options nowadays. Cheers!

Supervolcano is an 18 wheeler and this is a rally car. Supervolcano has loads of unnecessary thermal mass that make it unresponsive to rapid changes in demand. Supervolcano is built on concepts taken from industrial extrusion processes and has no business being on a 3D printer. This is what the Supervolcano should have been.

@@charlesstaton8104 That's a great analogy! Cheers

Thanks for calling that out! I've fixed it now :) Cheers!

Thanks, Everson! It really was a "because I can" type of video haha. Commercial hotends, even budget ones are getting so good now. I tried to overtake some more premium alternatives, and while I did well in terms of flow rate, quality and useability needs some work. I think my next step is designing a hotend using all the "correct" design principles, maybe one that has the highest flow per mm of hotend total length? All the best with your projects! Cheers!

I don't plan on doing any dedicated reviews, but I do wish to make a video testing as many hotends as possible in one video. It won't be in the works until next year though since I need to collect more hotends. I didn't test the actual flowrate of the TZ2.0 E3 one in this video, but my guess is it achieved between 25 and 30 mm3/s. It's a great value hotend, the CHC Pro is also comparable for it's high flow to great price. Cheers!

Yeah, I've been worried about that happening, I trusted the non all metal one more for surviving the hot tighten. Great tip with the pliers, I'll give that a go as I'd much rather use it over the ptfe lined one. All the best with your projects! Cheers!

I believe so, but not the same ones as I see used in water cooling setups, I think they're missing a seal or such. It's something I'll research more for the future, since I kinda just grabbed them without planning. Cheers!

Hi there! Just the basic Ender 3 4.2.2 board (I shorted the SKR Mini E3 V3 a while ago) and a BTT HDMI5. Will be stealing the Manta E3 EZ from my E5 shortly. Cheers!

Hi there! There's a high chance that's correct, that would explain why the relay failed too! I look forward to improving for next time. Cheers!

Good call, I'll look into that as I'm definitely leaving performance on the table (and quality.) Cheers!

Thanks for sharing that! I took a look at it, and while modifying it is possible, It would probably be best if I design my own whole one from scratch. I'll look into it. Cheers!

That's a great idea, much sleeker than anything else so far too. I'll look into that for a V2. Thank you! Cheers.

Thanks for sharing! It's amazing how good the Mercury conversions are, I'll be redoing the E5 with one in November. The Manta toolhead I've heard is an excellent platform. Cheers!

I was considering them, but I was unsure how well they'd perform, definitely better than tape though! Cheers!

Thanks for the tips! I'll look into them for future designs. Cheers!