3D Printer Bed Leveling - You Are Doing It All WRONG! Try This Instead!
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- A Tutorial on How to Level Your 3D Printer Bed with Paper so you will achieve a PERFECT 1st Layer and get AMAZING Bed Adhesion!
✅ Digital Calipers/ Micrometer [AMAZON]: geni.us/UTWTvtO
This tutorial by a 3D Printer Professional goes thru EVERYTHING you need to know so you will achieve amazing First Layer Adhesion and A Strong Base for your 3D Prints. This method will work well with any 3D PRINTER INCLUDING: CR-10, CR-10s, CR-10s Pro or Ender 3 Pro / V2
Includes:
The Best Paper to Use (and its not regular printer paper)
Prep and Set Up of your 3D Printer
The Bed Leveling Technique with Close Up Views
How to Examine your First Layers
*** Ender 3 Pro Printer used in this video is fully stock except for glass bed. Stock Firmware and Stock Cura Profile for PLA. I deliberately keep this printer stock, so you will be able to achieve similar results with your equipment.
⭐ 1st Layer Test Print: www.thingivers...
Filament used in Video:
✅ Sunlu PLA+ (red) [AMAZON]: geni.us/wOAD
✅ eSun PLA Pro (yellow) [AMAZON]: geni.us/wVp28s
** RECOMMENDED 3D PRINTERS AND ACCESSORIES **
Here are a few 3D Printers I own and/or highly recommend...
✅ Ender 3 Pro [AMAZON]: geni.us/g6fQkH6
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✅ CR-10s PRO v2 [AMAZON]: geni.us/EUIlCCk
✅ CR-10 S5 (for experienced users) [AMAZON]: geni.us/Fyn3
✅ Artillery Sidewinder X1 [AMAZON]: geni.us/0wID0V
✅ Artillery Sidewinder X2 [AMAZON]: geni.us/0JmB1
3D Printer Gear and Equipment:
✅ Creality Tool Kit and Box [AMAZON]: geni.us/0OCiRwQ
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#3dprinter #level3dprinterbed #ender3pro
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Feel like a fucking genius loading up this video whilst using a piece of a receipt because I couldn’t find any printer paper
😂😂
Thank you so much most people who explain what to do don’t give clear and thorough instructions thank you for your dedication and effort. I want you to know you are amazing and keep up the good work you are making a good difference in the world/3d printing community.
This was THE most sound advice I’ve seen. I spent over an hour trying to level my bed today. After watching this video, I got it done in minutes. THANK YOU!
Glad it helped!
Honestly me too man I was pulling my hair out for 3 days trying to figure this problem out and how to level it best. This helped me get it done in 5 minutes and now back to printing! I was honestly ready to sell this model and buy a expensive printer.
This was the best leveling I have ever done before! After printing paper, feeler gauge, leveling machine that lights up, none of them had work! Wow this made it work!
Thanks for your feedback. Glad to help.
Wish I could click Like more than once. I've been so frustrated but I'm looking forward to trying the printer again. Every one of my prints were clearly flawed due to the gap being too large. The first layer looked like a harp with individual strings and it finally quit adhering. Exactly my problem. Thanks!!
This is super material! One thing to note is that the difference between a nozzle that is too close and one that is too far from the bed is insanely small! Your gradient example is fantastic, but lots of beginners dont understand the difference is insanely MINUTE. Keep it up!
Thanks for the encouragement!
Very true I’ve had to do a print that just follows the edges of the bed to see it but you can see the difference in leveling very easily
Absolutely awesome thank u so much my bed is now the best its ever been just got your self a new subscriber !!!
I've been doing print leveling for years using index cards and A4 paper. Never thought of using receipt paper and it's dead on
Glad to help.
Amazing!!!!!!!My first layer test print came out absolutely perfect after doing this with my Lowes receipt! Thank You so much. Ive been going crazy, Got my sub and like!
I am happy to help… planning 5 new videos now… including review of new Ender 3 v3 SE
I have a different perspective that I'd like to share:
At the beginning of each job, the machine checks to see where the Z home is. Z home is where the nozzle touches the build plate (Z = 0.00). Since you don't want the nozzle to actually touch the build plate, the limit switch triggers a bit before the nozzle gets there. The machine needs to know what that distance (known as the Z-offset) is exactly so it can do it's calculations during the job. We need to measure that distance and enter it. Once entered, that number doesn't need to be changed unless you change the nozzle or switch. You can measure the distance to the shim of your choice then include the shim thickness. Paper is a common choice. For example, if Z is -2.00mm when touching the paper, and the paper is 0.10mm thick, then the Z-offset is -2.10mm.
Any adjustment to the first layer can be made in Cura. I'm guessing it can be done with other slicers too.
Thank you very much. this is incredible change.
Hi, I’m fresh in 3D printing world and everything works like a charm with PLA but yesterday I tried to print with PETG and it just don’t work I mean on bed levelling, extrusion, temperature and other stuff is ok but not bed levelling. Do I need a little more gap for PETG since it is a little bit more thicker than PLA?
Lol it gets so confusing. Watched another video yesterday that claimed it didn't matter what thickness of paper you use, as long as you get the four points the same. Then adjust the Z axis to the right gap. So I'm struggling to understand why using the receipt paper would make any difference
A normal print is 0.2 layer height.
Sounds wrong having 0.06 between nozzle and bed then? 😂
how about moving the z axis to zero and setting up the offset?
Great explanation. I haven't used my printer in a few years, and have forgotten everything! It's coming back to me....
Great video. Well explained.
Glad it was helpful!
Hello, I have a problem with calibrating the bed. I was able to do it well. Suddenly, a week ago, all the prints began to fail before they started. But I calibrated the bed well, and I think there are problems with the printer. I did not print on it much It is still new
Could be many things… what is the printer doing?
ok, i am new to 3d printing and your video was the first one that actually helped me get my bed level! when removing the giant flat square i printed to test if I did it right it was like paper! thank you soooooooo much for doing this in a way that someone who isnt overly tech savvy could figure out.
I printed for a year and a half then stopped for a year and now I cant get any filament to stick to the bed at all I play with z-offset for hours (every offset number in a range of 30) over and over, I slowed the print down to 30% and nothing. My extruder is pushing but maybe not enough. IDK what to do. Ive also been using reciept paper for a long time
That's weird because I had the opposite happen. Haven't printed in over a year, took them out and just briefly wiped off the build plate and my prints stuck perfectly. My build plates were cleaned fully prior to storage. I'm back to using hairspray now, and gluestick in the garage due to the cold but was interesting to see that happen.
You explained it very good with the test print. I ended on the thermo paper also, mainly because it makes you better feel about the actual distance to the nozzle, but the lower thickness is also positive in my case
If you are printing a .14-.19 wouldn’t you want your bed to be .14mm away?
Not necessarily… on bed homing… it is looking for proper gap to flow. Sort of a baseline. Once you hit print the nozzle will adjust for layer height via slicer settings.
what about the center of the bed? usually thats the one that is off
Unfortunately, there is not much you can do about the middle. If you are lacking bite in center… lower z azis in menu of printer till good compromise. Best thing to solve dip in center is to add a glass bed. Once you use glass… you will never go with textured bed again.
Dude i thank you so much might be a 2yr old video but you saved help me out so much! instantly subscribed
Thank you for the video and detailed explanation 🙏 new to 3D printing, had some nice, clean prints initially and then things started getting wonky. Thought I had leveled it correctly, but the margin for error is so much smaller than I imagined. Particularly helpful, to me, was the test print where you showed the gradient from too close to the plate to too far away from it. Thanks again!!
Glad it helped!
dude thankyou for the tip, i was using regular paper but for the life of me i could not get that first layer to stick, the minute i used a receipt bam 100% success on every print ty tyt y this was such a great tutorial
You are very welcome.
The link to the test pattern is not working. Can you share again?
So, this is kind of like using the matchbook case to set the points on an old car?? Anyone that knows that trick probably appreciates working on an old car/truck where you could see the engine and all it's components.
I remember climbing under the hood and changing header gaskets without removing anything else.
@@Kommander_Rahnn Same here!! It was an old F100 with a 300 straight-6. My friend and I climbed in om either side of the engine, as it was raining, feet on the ground and plenty of space to turn around. The good 'ol days for sure.
I have a question. Is it normal for my edges (1-1.5” in) to be lower than my middle? If I get my edges set my middle is too tight/low. I have a Creality ender v2 neo.
Unfortunately, aluminum warps easy… especially with high heat.
Buy a glass bed and use Elmers Purple Glue Stick and you will have a super flat bed. You will love the very smooth bottom surface as well.
I notice that when i level the corners the nozzle will have a big gap in the middle of the bed any help pls thanks in advance
Not only was this a really clear explanation, it was superbly demonstrated as well. Good job.
Glad it was helpful!
The thermal printer paper is a great idea. When I level, I try to get the nozzle directly over the adjusting screws so there is no pitching or "see-saw' effect upsetting the balance.
If that doesn't make sense, think of a board going over a pivot point. As the end of the board is raised or lowered so is the rest of the board. The closer to the pivot, the smaller the difference becomes. It will never be zero but if the measurement (nozzle and paper/feeler gauge) is taken 25mm from the screw the difference will be much greater than if taken directly over the screw. It saves you from "chasing the numbers" and gets a great "level" quicker. I like the term tramming better because it better describes the process. As with a milling machine, the idea is to keep the bed the same distance from the nozzle at any position regardless of whether it's level to the Earth.
I switched from an 0.4 mm nozzle on my ender 3 v3 se, to a 0.2 mm nozzle. at first I got no bed adhesion at all, now thanks to this, I'm dialing it in one pass at a time.
Just starting out. Nice idea for the thermal receipt paper and the feeler gauge technique. Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, happy and healthy.
This fixed the extruder click issue. I was using printer paper and for whatever reason the printer kept trying to level it which caused the extruder to begin clicking
I have an ender 3 v3, it doesn't have the tuning wheels on the bottom and when I print things aren't coming out properly. Does anyone know how to fix it? I have some pictures if someone can help. My question is, how do I adjust mine?
Out of all the videos, this is the only one that actually helped me. Thank you
I found playing cards worked for ender 3 max.... stock. And i cant seem to find anything to work for my ender 3 v2s.. with sprite pro extruder... both machines have issues no matter what. Eveything works fine on small prints like lighter cases... but when i go to print a custom rolling tray... layers are all ridged and some have those gaps. Some dont. Parts stick some dont... i dont get why little objects are fine. But when u want something big, u cant get it. Like wtaf
i orderd the springs and wheels fore the ender -3 v3 se but i dont understand the z ofset thing how o start that on my printer ?
Now go wash your hand, those slips are covered in horrible hormones and stuff from the thermal ink.
i have been struggling with getting bed adhesion for a solid month now, brand new to 3d printing. i have an ender 3 s1 and THIS video has saved my sanity!! i am reposting this video in the facebook newbie groups i am in, as it has been invaluable!!!!! thank you so much. you have a def sub from me!!!!
Thank you for watching and for re-posting.
Right now I'm trying out a different slicer I was using ultimaker cura slicer high right now I am trying out prusaslicer and seeing if that was my problem will not be around for at least another five hours the slicer program already loaded onto a SD card but the printer is currently busy with a print with the new slicer but it's not the one which is the most difficult
This is Gold! Been printing for a while but never thought about using receipt paper for PLA! I'm assuming you can double it up for PETG or use printer paper for that perfect flow. Much appreciated for this well put together tutorial!
Thanks for the nice words... For PETG, regular printer paper should be ok... just try to find something on thinner side. Of course, try the receipt first and see how it looks. It should work fine with a bit more bite to bed.
i have finaly got the thing to print after a WEEK OF FAILS THANK YOU
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!
The biggest cause of level fails for me is overtightening bolts on the rollers on XYZ axis. The need to be able to be turned in place with fingers while being tight enough to not have wobbles. I suspect overtightening these bolts causes distortion of the frame, and build plate.
The item I have to print with you can't print with hairspray because it becomes like glass yes I have a glass surface I don't have the new magnetic type I have to buy a new type a printer so I can get that kind I have to use blue tape with this method but then what I'm printing is so tight that I have a hard time measuring how much clearance I have on the first layer it's not very much at least say is less than a millimeter or even a half of mm and yes any amount of snow machine against the first layer would using sandpaper to clean it the first layer off there's that little amount of space maybe one print line between the layers that's all I think there is and that some 2.2 have to move apart from each other
Great great suggestion about using thermal receipt. That did the trick for me on my first ever 3D printer. One suggestion that made this all work is that I pulled the thermal paper tight as I ran it under the nozzle. As I was trying this initially I was just sliding the paper under the nozzle and the tension seemed OK. Then something made me realize that I should pull the paper taught. When I did this it showed me that there was still too much gap between the bed and the nozzle. I adjusted the bed closer at that point, went around all four corners of the bed twice making sure to keep the tension on the paper. I'm now printing my first successful object! 😀
You are not taking your own advice. you are checking with no heat or the paper would turn black. It is thermal paper after all.
Lat time I checked those are calipers not micrometers. Micrometers are literally 10x more precise and look completely different
today was a shit show trying to get my printer to work again . with no success . i thought about using reciept paper but got distracted . thanks for the tips. will comment again if i can get mine working next time i try
I get the 4 corners leveled, but the center has way to big a gap. so big the filament just globs on the nozzle
Thanks for the great trick of using the receipt. Just one issue the link you have to the first layer print test isn't working can you please resend the link
This tutorial had me up and running in around 20 minutes. Finally getting my skirts to come out perfect! Thank you so much!!
Wonderful! Very happy to help!
I’ve been using the backing from my shipping labels, just measured and I get 0.07 to 0.08, apparently I’ve been using the perfect medium because it’s slick too. I also use CHEP’s M0 and M25 gcode files and I have to say I’ve been getting great results. You’ve done a great video, thanks!
That sounds like a winner! Thanks for letting us know!
Use handle of scraper that come with printer put it under the frame under printer bed where adjuster are at thats the frame lots easier then using some paper
Please for the love of engineering DO NOT use metric and imperial together.
Yo so wonderfully talk about millimetres.👍 But then you talk about pounds for weight of paper.👎 Sigh.
80gr. per square meter is the unit of measurement in the most standard weight. thanks
ps, yes this is also a standard in US with the abbreviation GSM.
Great advice… I will try to incorporate that in my videos. Never even crossed my mind living in USA.
I`ve been trying to tram my bed for several hours. This video gave me the best results (with the receipt), however my bed is warped. Right at the 4 knobs, I feel just a little friction, however, in the center and between the knobs (center left, right back and front) it slightly dips down. I also still see noticeable lines, but I'm not sure if they're over extrusion lines or if the knobs are too loose (as you show/say in your example). I also have blobs/bits of filament where the nozzle lifts.
You mention a video about leveling with feeler gauges, but I couldn't find the link anywhere. I hope you notice this comment soon but I understand you may be flooded with notifications. Thanks for the video!
A small warp in bed is ok. Just level again and try and level in the middle also. As long as print is sticking to bed… just go with it.
A very worthwhile upgrade is a glass bed. This will create a flat layer. Personally, I exclusively use glass on all my printers. Also, buy Elmers Jumbo Purple Glue stick. Wipe glass with glue stick and prints will stick amazingly.
Could there be a difference between 3D Printers? To my Snapmaker 2.0 there where measure paper for leveling provided by the manufactor and that paper is thicker than a termo paper.
This method works on all 8 of my printers. That said, I pretty much only tram/level by eye now.
This is perfect, but the first half of leveling. After doing this, print a .05 print first layer, and get that to stick perfect by adjusting your z height. If that sticks, then you are right on the money.
Great tip. I usually adjust on the fly as 1 st layer goes down.
This is a superb advice! Thank you very much!
I am trying to find your video on leveling with feeler gauges. I am working with an Elegoo Neptune 3 Max. Watched you thermal paper leveling video twice today and got close. Still too thick on one side and too thin on the other I think.
Try running 4 or 5 perimeters… adjust as laying it down. Just slight turns. Also, check everything is tight.
New to 3rd printing. Why do we bed level at 60 degree C when Ender 3 pro defaults to 50? Shouldn't I bed level to the operational temp?
10 degrees isn’t going to make too much difference… however, technically leveling/ tramming should be done at operational temperature.
I've been dealing with bed leveling for the past few days and using a receipt over printer paper really felt like it improved things and was easier to level. Thank you!
You're*
Does it matter if we level the bed hot or cold?
Yes. You want bed at working temperature. Accidentally edited that section out in effort to speed up video.
I was using way thicker paper, I can't wait to try this!
Question here, how do I do this on a K1? which has the "dials" under the metal plate at the bottom, and you can't really move them unless you take the belt put of the gears =S
I would suggest printing some bed leveling knobs… it will make it so much easier.
I attempted this but the center of by bed is being scrapped by the hot end? I raised the z-axis stop and releveled the bed again and now the center is okay but the outsides are all over the place. My printer is only 4 weeks old, is my bed warped?
What is the printer? It is possible, but more likely just not adjusted right. Here is a test… take a straight ruler turned on its side and run diagonally to see if gap in center. You can slide a sheet of paper under and along bed and the edge of ruler. If slides under in middle… its warped. If so, give yourself an amazing upgrade and make or buy glass bed. It will be super flat and printing on glass is amazing vs textured bed.
All my printers are glass except 1… and its pei.
Sooooo Frustrating... I've tried this over 30 times and still have material lifting as it is doing its passes. Do you have a leveling gcode for an ender 2 pro?
Ok… I have been there!
Go about this in logical order…
1) on vid, check section on loose ecocentric nuts. There should be no wobble when moving x,y and z axis and extruder.
If so, fix. This is 95% the issue.
2) clean the bed really well and don’t touch with hands.
3) follow leveling/ tramming procedure until level. It may take 5 or more times around… maybe 10x
4) set in slicer a thick first layer… like .24mm. This will flow more filament and give you a stronger base.
5) examine first layer as it comes down. Compare to end of vid with examples of too much, too little or perfect leveling.
Also, start with something simple like a test block.
Learn to walk before you run! With experience, you will be printing crazy stuff later.
This fixed every issue I had been having with my 3d printer! You got my like, subscription, and comment as well! Thank you! ❤
I have used both types of paper but what is the game changer for me is printing a CHEP Bed Leveling Test Print afterwards and fine adjusting according to the thickness of this first layer print. Knowing what a first layer should look like is standard to be reached and I fine tune the knobs according to the outside lines thickness until it looks perfect. If the thickness is equal at each corner then you are good to go. Before I start a large print I always print a CHEP Bed Test Print to ensure I'm just perfect to proceed. Another item that I would like to mention is I highly recommend buying or building a filament dehumidifier and enjoy problem free prints - the difference is night and day.
Something i do a lot is do a bed level test on my printer and adjust it while its printing, saves me a ton of time and works perfectly
Thank you. I was having problems like you demonstrated but think more accurate levelling with the thermal receipt will probably resolve them :)
I’ve tried leveling my bed so many times my z when I disable steppers will drop down below the bed height and when I auto home it goes to the middle idk if I need to wipe settings or what but I’ve just been so frustrated tried leveling like a hundred times
I think you have messed up a setting. I would recommend doing a reset on 3D printer. See if it fixes issue. If not, erase slicer settings and printer and start over fresh with stock slicer profile. Get some prints down before tweaking anything.
Good luck.
How does one do this using Klipper on an Ender 3 Pro?
why are all of my corners level tho but not the middle?
I realized my posted I was using hairspray not lose tape would cause the first layer of my print to stick together charge your technique with blue tape originally it worked perfectly fine and yes I even tried the paper everyone else uses even looser tolerances and it still did not work so basically I'm sorry I said what I said I only say this because I don't put all stuff which is bad
what about layer shifting ?... this is my machines problem.. is this caused by the pcb control board ?
Probably not, but possible. Do these first. Check belts are tightened just enough to get a slight strum out of them… like a guitar string. Axis should move nice and smooth though. 2nd… be sure the little screw on extruder gear is tight and tightened on the flat spot on extruder shaft.
3rd. Get a name brand SD card… the factory sd a horrible and fail often.
towards the end of the video you said if we were interested in using the feeler gauge method there would be a link in the upper right hand corner. I didn't see a link there or in the description. I also didn't see a video on your channel, Do you have the link?
Thanks!!
Idk what i seem to be doing incorrect i have spent days trying to level my days i got it perfect in the corners and middle but when i print it spits it out and doesnt adhere to the bed but it adheres to the nozzle
Check to see if bed wobble if you push it back and forth and try to wobble it.
Check to see if filament on tip is oozing from nozzle threads.
Go to stock setting from slicer.
Finally. Level/ tram bed again, then again.
Once you get this… everything hoes easier.
How about using on a Qidi X Max 3, I hate using there special sheet, it gets expensive having to replace the sheet at 30 for 3 sheets.
Hello and thanks so much for posting this video. The link you have listed for the 1st Layer Test Print is no longer valid. Do you an updated link or a new test print that you think will work well with the Ender 3 Max? Thanks again for your time.
I've been stuck trying to tram my printer since Saturday and I thought that using a feeler gauge would be better to level it. Haven't used thermal paper in years. Now, I used last night before I went to bed and the bed almost leveled out.
12:17 Oh? You have a video for feeler gauges? Okay, I can take a look.
Feeler gauge video got corrupted… be sure everything is tight and no wobble on bed.
@@tr3nDmaker I was lucky enough to actually get it leveled yesterday. I had to reset the bed by lowering all the screws so the surface was far away from the nozzle. Then, I had to painstakingly count the number turns on the knobs, one by one, to get it leveled and recorded the number of turns on my phone. 8 days was far too long to deal with this printer. Finally, I'm able to print something!
Here's the thing. I had to use standard copy paper for the method.
I didn’t see the link for the feeler gauge method
Do you recommend the auto bed leveler mod from creality?
Not really… after you level bed 50x or so… you don’t really need it. I have several printers with ABL… and never use it.
Auto Bed Leveling really only compensates for tilted or unleveled bed. If very off, it will manifest on print. Even with ABL you still need bed pretty leveled and your more adjusting gap.
What about z offset. Is that something that u tune or do you leave it at 0? I think pla and petg have different gap requirements.
@@jack91522 Yes, adjusting z offset is very helpful, especially when using different filament. ie PLA and PETG. However, Z offset should only be used to get the gap from bed to nozzle across entire bed. So, start with very level bed and dial Z offset to get the perfect 1st layer.
I'm still very new to the hobby and this helped me out a ton! Thanks for giving such a good description of the exact "feel" to look for.
Very welcome!
This was extremely useful to me and I appreciate you posting this. I am rather new to this and hit a rough patch after we had a cold spell. Basement temp dropped to under 59 and nothing adhered. I bought a space heater and invested in some glue stick but still ran into a lot of problems. This really made a difference. Only thing I would add, though, for cold climates is to warm the bed up first. I discovered some pretty substantial differences if I performed these steps on a cold bed.
Yes. After I posted video, I realized I edited that section out. Unfortunately, I can not add it back.
Dude I’ve been struggling badly at this. This was beautiful ty
Thank you. This really help me understand the bed level test on my Neptune 3 Pro
Very happy to help.
A bit off track but can you use disable steppers to get the bed leveled and save the settings, tia
Yes, you can disable steppers. But, that is not why bed needs leveling after prints. Main reason leveling is needed is spring tension and positions get disturbed when removing prints. Even slightest movement of bed seems to knock position off.
Fantastic content. I'll be doing this in future.....and watching more of your videos. Thank you.
On my bed slinger I’ve been using a Filament Friday E-Leveler 2 works great.
Where is the gauge video link?
Wow!! I almost threw my printer out the window. Great video
Glad it helped
I can say one thing my print I have to do can be shoved into a wallet and be proud as a phone stand
Thank you so much I thought my printer was done for.
Glad I could help!
Thanks, the info in this video really helped with my bed adhesion. Just one thing... Calipers and micrometers are not the same. What you are showing and provide links to, are digital calipers, NOT micrometers. While both can give you a thickness measurement (assuming you are using outside micrometers), calipers use your thumb to set the distance & pressure on the measured piece, a micrometer uses a torque limited thimble system and can provide a level of accuracy typically 10-100x that of calipers.
I understand, I work on car a lot and sometimes talk too fast and mix up technical names. On a more humble note… they are actually called Digital Caliper Verniers.
Thanks you for your post. I will be sure to name it properly in the future.
My ender 3 after I level the bed and attempt to print something it seems that the bed level knobs loosen or tighten up like they need a self locking nut back up onto them prevent them from moving
My initial thought is lack of tension because your bed is set too high. On left side of printer there is a limit switch connected to a small "L" bracket... be sure this is all the way down nested onto frame. Then re-level bed. This should put more tension on the bed leveling knobs/screws, so it does not loosen up. Let me know if it works... Good Luck!
@@tr3nDmaker I checked the bracket and its all the way down. My thoughts are maybe the knobs needs a self locking nut to hold it in place.
Thank you so much I’ve spent days trying to get this thing to work after I got it and this was the FINAL step I was missing bless you
Man!! Thank you!! If you have an Ender-3 V2, use that little triangular card that comes with it. Its a thick piece of paper. Worked perfectly.
Glad I could help.