My Secret To No More 3D Printed Layer Lines
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 май 2024
- 3D Printing Fuzzy Skin With Bambu Lab A1!
Check out my recent video: • My Secret To Prototypi...
To become a Patron of my channel, visit www.jakegrim.com/patron
To purchase one of my inventions, visit www.jakegrim.com/store
Come chat with me and other makers: / discord
Amazon Affiliate Links To Support This Channel:
PLA Filament That I Used In This Video (MADE IN USA): amzn.to/3TnTunk
Textured Bed Plate: amzn.to/3wYbjls
Creality Resin 3D Printer: amzn.to/3THQ1BK
Creality K1 Max 3D Printer: amzn.to/3IDWJCg
Apple MacBook Pro: amzn.to/3VjL1Ek
Welcome to the world of innovative 3D printing techniques! In this tutorial, I'll show you how to elevate your 3D printed parts using a unique slicing method called "fuzz." Say goodbye to visible layer lines and hello to professional-looking products with minimal post-processing. Join me as I share my journey, failures, and ultimate success in achieving flawless prints.
00:00 - Introduction to the Fuzz Technique: Learn how to transform ordinary 3D printed parts into extraordinary creations with a simple slicing trick.
00:20- Exploring Traditional Post-Processing Methods: Discover the limitations and inefficiencies of sanding, priming, and painting for achieving smooth surfaces.
02:12 - The Quest for Better Manufacturing Solutions: Dive into the challenges faced with injection molding and resin 3D printing, and the search for a cost-effective alternative.
05:10 - Introducing Fuzz Skin: Uncover the revolutionary slicer feature offered by Bambu Studio, designed to add a textured finish to 3D printed parts.
05:40 - Understanding Fuzz Skin Variables: Learn how to optimize fuzz thickness and distance point settings for desired results.
06:30 - Experimenting with Fuzz Combinations: Gain insights from a comprehensive experiment to determine the ideal fuzz parameters.
7:14 - Implementing Fuzz Skin in Bambu Studio: Step-by-step guide on applying fuzz skin to your 3D models for flawless prints.
07:38 - Witness the Transformation: See the remarkable difference between standard and fuzz-enhanced parts, showcasing improved aesthetics and durability.
8:35 - Considerations Before Implementation: Understand the impact of increased print time and potential adjustments to design tolerances when incorporating fuzz skin.
09:14 - Embracing Failure on the Path to Success: Emphasizing the importance of perseverance and resilience in overcoming challenges and achieving innovation.
09:45 - Wake Hydro Alarm Clock: Visit wakehydro.com to experience the ultimate morning wake-up solution with our innovative alarm clocks.
Unlock the full potential of your 3D printing projects with the fuzz technique. Get ready to unleash your creativity and build something truly extraordinary! Don't forget to like, share, and subscribe for more cutting-edge tips and tutorials. Let's make the world of 3D printing even more amazing together!
SEO:
1. Efficient 3D printing techniques
2. Streamlining 3D printing post-processing
3. Minimize post-printing work
4. Eliminate 3D printing finishing steps
5. Simplified 3D printing workflow
6. Reducing post-processing time
7. Optimizing 3D printing for production
8. Enhancing customer-ready 3D prints
9. Effortless finishing for 3D printed parts
10. Seamless post-printing solutions
11. Smoother surface finishes for 3D prints
12. Automating post-processing in 3D printing
13. Creating polished 3D printed products
14. Cutting-edge slicing techniques for flawless prints
15. Improving print quality with minimal effort
16. Accelerating 3D printing production
17. Advanced slicer features for professional results
18. Efficient post-printing strategies
19. Achieving professional-grade prints with ease
20. Revolutionizing 3D printing finishing processes
21. 3D Printing Fuzzy Skin With Bambu Lab A1
Keywords:
#HowTo
#EducationalInventions
#DIYProjects
#InnovativeIdeas
#CreativeSolutions
#LearningHacks
#LifeHacks
#ScienceExperiments
#HandsOnLearning
#Edutainment
#FunExperiments
#CreativeLearning
#InventiveTutorials
#StepByStepGuides
#EducationalInnovations
#UniqueGadgets
#PracticalTips
#MindBlowingInventions
#EducationalDiscoveries
#EducationalDIY
#InnovativeTeaching
#DIYInventions
#ScienceForKids
#LearningThroughPlay
#InnovativeTechnology
#InnovativeDesigns
#EducationalExperiments
#ProblemSolving
#EducationalCrafts
#LearningWithFun
#HowItWorks
#InventiveDevices
#STEMEducation
#InnovativeSolutions
#ExploratoryLearning
#PracticalApplications
#EducationalEntertainmentIdeas
#HandsOnEducation
#UniqueCreations
#DIYForBeginners
#LearningByDoing
#EntertainingInnovations
#Edutainment
#EducationalHacks
#InnovativeConcepts
#ExperimentsAtHome
#ScienceMadeEasy
#CreativeThinking
#LearningMadeFun
#InventorsCorner
#InnovationsForKids
#EducationalGames
#DIYScience
#InnovativeProducts
#EducationalMagic
#FunWithLearning
#HandsOnExperiments
#CreativeEducationalContent
#DIYEducationalToys
#CoolScienceTricks 
Наука
Fuzzy skin is the one-for-all recipe to take away the 3d-printed look.
We use it on all our products from the beginning - but: It comes at the cost of increased print-time! Always a good idea to apply it only to visible surfaces by using modifier blocks
Glad I’m not the only one doing it!
There is also feature "variable layer height" which also has nice results, especially for more organic prints.
No way! I’ve never heard of variable layer height! I’ll have to look into it! Thank you for sharing :)
can also save time! no need to print vertical walls at 0.12mm height, but can still get that detail in the curved parts
@@amil89 I didn’t even think about that! That’s an excellent point! Thank you!
Shame that (at least in OrcaSlicer) you can't use variable layer height with tree supports.
@@jakemgrim It is the weird stack of lines up along the top in the "prepare" stage. It is right the left of the "move object" button.
The fuzzy skin is not a "Bambu Studio" feature. It's originally a Cura feature that got ported over to Prusaslicer (which is the basis for Bambu Studio) long ago..
While still under "Experimental"
Good to know! Thanks for sharing!!
@@R34l1ty4U allegedly…
@@jakemgrim what I meant its under the "Experimental" group of settings (you can search for it). I didnt even remember about it until your video. ;)
It's not even that. It's basically a more simplified Displacement modifier with less options that you normally get with any 3d modeling software.
Summary: nothing new there, but your video is useful because the tests your made with the fuzzy skin.
Long story short: try to check the "enable fuzzy skin" box if you still haven't.played with it.
Did you not like my story?
@@jakemgrimIt was nice, but some people want the info only.
@@jakemgrim No, and it's not a secret
@@JacobHepworth what should I change to make it better?
@@jakemgrimYou could maybe start by covering fresh topics. I was hesitant to watch but was hoping for info I had never seen. It felt like I was wasting my time rehashing something I see in my feed a lot lately.
Fwiw, you're doing a great job on lighting, audio and all around production value.
you can make only 20min extra by adding a modifier to remove the fuzzy skin on the inside, can I have one now that I saved you 1000 hours?
Wouldn’t that be the same as contour? Or would the modifier work differently?
@@jakemgrim Using the modifier, it is possible to apply a fuzzy skin only on the outer contour of the part, while using the 'contour' option makes it fuzzy even on the inside.
@@ggbartosz I see! I haven’t used the modifier yet. That makes a lot of sense! Thank you!
modifier is an added shape that encompasses a different setting (right click)@@jakemgrim
The modifier feature is like using a support blocker. It allows you to create a "zone" with custom settings. In your case I would recommend creating an obj or stl that is the exact same OD as you clock but solid, and just reduce the x and y by .1-.5mm and Raise by .1-.5mm that way you can import it with your model and it's already dimensioned properly.
I've been using fuzzy on my prints for the last few weeks and I do like the results. I make alot of items with TPU and the the flexibility and fuzzy makes a great combo really gives my prototypes a next level feel. Great video thanks for sharing your journey!
I haven't tried TPU and Fuzz yet but it sounds cool! What kind of stuff are you printing? If you want to share pictures of the prints, you can post them in our Discord linked in the description!
Same here, I tried fuzzy on the Ender-3 v2 a couple months ago for a TPU button and it came out great both in look and feel. So I experimented a bit on PLA. My parameters of choice are 0.1, 0.1. It just gives it a silky roughness, like finished wood.
on the part of fuzzy skin and the tolerances. you can add a modifier cube or what it fit and just float it only on the outside areas were you want fuzzy skin. This way in your model only the outside is with a fuzzy skin and the inside is normal which now saves time and the tolerances will stay.
I wish I would have thought of that! Thank you so much! Hope to see you around friend!
@@jakemgrimmaybe do a followup video on that. Im new in FDM Printing - this would be a nice quick tutorial Video, since i dont know what he means :D
Also, you can do the inverse and add a modifier object in the areas where you do NOT want fuzzy skin and save yourself that post processing as well.
@@Oliver_Things wow! That might be even easier! Thank you!! I hope you stick around for future videos because you have some great advice!
@@jakemgrim lots of trial and error! Keep up the good work!
I personally don’t understand why people go through such lengths to hide the fact that a thing was 3D printed. As of writing this comment, 3D printing is still a novelty. It is reaching the point quickly where most people can just buy one, but it is still a new and cool concept. I feel that for many people, owning something that was 3D printed would be a cool novelty. Not only do you have an alarm clock, but you have something that someone created with a little machine in their house. I understand that in some applications it is good to hide the fact that something was printed, mostly with cosmetic parts like cosplay props or things you want to have look like they were professionally made, but for me it doesn’t make much sense to go about trying to hide the fact that a thing you’re selling out of your house is 3D printed.
Love the video. I think the best part of 3D printing is the design and problem solving! Seeing an idea sitting on my table or workbench always blows me away. I don't care if it's a small custom poker chip or a large set of inserts for my board games. The fact that after a few hours or days something that didn't exist before I started does now is so cool!
And the ironing out kinks until it's just right is awesome! Love the shared knowledge.
Goodluck in all you do!
Thank you so much! I’m glad you enjoyed the video! Feel free to share pictures or videos of your projects in our discord linked in the description! It’s so cool to turn ideas into real life things! I hope to see you around with future videos!
I've been using fuzzy skin for a couple years now, and I think other slicers also have the setting too. as for tolerances, you can use modifier blocks to either enforce, or block fuzzy skin anywhere on your model. I use this for the phone mounts I designed and produce for my car. Fuzzy skin is an awesome feature, and even though I already knew about it, knew how to use it, and use it on a regular basis, I continued watching your video because of how well you made your video. It is structured very well, and easy to understand for even the most novice of printers, which I appreciate, and wanted to say GREAT JOB!
Thank you SO SO much! You put the biggest smile on my face :) I tried to make this video entertaining and informative for beginners. A bunch of expert level 3D printing people posted negative comments, but that’s okay thanks to people like you being kind and positive. If you haven’t already, you should consider joining our discord (link in the description) of other makers. I’ll be getting on there this afternoon to catch up on the conversation. Now I’m going to go for a run and exercise :) See ya around!!
Bruh… I’ve used this setting before as a simple test, but it never thought about using it to get rid of the layer lines… valuable insight you gave me, thank you!
.3mm on both is what I found what looked best to me as well when I was testing things too last week. I've got a K1 Max and Neptune 4+ over the last few months, and have really been enjoying designing and creating things for people. It is really cool what we can do with 3D printing now a days.
That’s cool we both came up with 0.3! I’d love to see the projects your working on if you want to post pictures in our discord (linked in the description)!
When you think the video is “hey, do you remember this feature from a few years ago?” but you get “come along to my journey of printing a box” :D
It’s like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re gonna get ;) hope you stick around for future videos, friend!
Have you tried making Silicone molds? Casting each piece would take less than 15 minutes using 2 part resin that you can pour and cure and you can dye the resin in any color. There are also minimal post processing.
Plus, just like with filament, there are lots of different kinds of resins with different mechanical and other properties. Do the fill/sand process once to get a high-quality master, make a few molds from it, and cast multiple parts at once. Or, have a local machine shop make a suitable mold frame, make an epoxy mold instead of silicone, and use that to do low-volume injection molding yourself. Or use the master to make sand molds and cast it out of Zamak or aluminum. There are all kinds of options that don't take three hours to produce a part.
Really cool that you didnt give up on it! You can printed this on resin printer, warping can be resolve with better supports and other orientation, britelness can be solved by using different resin (like abs from elegoo, tough AnyCubic or some mix) or settings (lesser curing time). But i dont think resin print wouldnt work for commercial product, cuz if its undercured it could be toxic, if overcured it would be too brittle, pref you need to paint then so no sunlight would desroy youre product. BTW love texture on fineshed clock!
Thank you so much for taking the time to provide feedback! I would like to try abs resin some time! I’m currently trying to print a statue of Walt Disney in resin to display in my lab. I hope you enjoyed the video and hope to see you again next week :) P.S. Let me know if you build anything awesome this week!
@@jakemgrim What they said: warping/breaking off the supports is all about orientation. You don't want wide, flat areas parallel to the bed; it will stick HARD and tend to break off the supports--or, if you're using a magnetic print bed (which makes life so much easier), it can pull your bed enough to shift it off its magnet. You want the smallest cross section printing at time--so, I'd turn your clock body about 45 degrees, so no one side is parallel to the bed.
Play with it a bit and you'll get a feel for the ideal angle.
@@gpweaver that makes sense now! I always wondered why resin prints were printed in strange angles. Now I know! I’ll give it a shot! Hope to see you around for future videos because I love feedback like yours :)
hey jake, just found your channel through this video and i love what you’re all about. the information was given in a really easily digestible anger and the production of the video was great! definitely gonna subscribe
Thank you so much! I just got done replying to a comment telling me everything I did wrong. Your comment made me smile :) Feel free to join our discord channel to share projects and ideas with other makers! I look forward to seeing you around new friend!
Your dedication to your craft is evident.
Im new to 3d printing so this was very informative, despite not getting to the point its a lot more layman/noob friendly
I heard about it but never tried it, now I will. 😊 Thank you so much. 👏🏻
It’s pretty cool! I hope it goes well for you :) I’d love to see what you make so feel free to share your results in our discord (linked in the description)! I hope to see you around!
No failure, no improvement, Thank you for sharing
Congrats for having the drive and pacience to go forward no mather the obtacles! For those who did not quite get it this video was made for people who mean bussiness, that are interested on the core of things, apriciate when someone openes their eyes and tells them they have been trying the wrong method to achieve their goal.
Thank you my friend! I tried to blend education, entertainment, and inspiration all into one video. I hope you stick around for future videos :)
Great video jake! Thanks for sharing your experiment results👌🏻
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Ignore the comments saying you took too long to get to the point. Clearly they have time to post a comment, which makes their point invalid. They also have no idea what goes into making a video, including the joy of making a video with a story.
Great story telling, info and production! Keep it up 🤘🏻
Thank you so much! Your invalid point comment made me LOL. Thank you for your feedback, you are 100% correct. Th process fills me with joy
writing a comment takes like 10 seconds...
Thanks for sharing this information - as a play-around-with-printers guy who also happens to be an engineer who works in manufacturing full-time, one thing I'll say is: you went to the wrong shops to quote your injection molded parts. The Xometrys and ProtoLabs of the world are fast and easy, and if they're not cheap enough for you there's other options out there.
I’ll check those out! Thank you for the advice!
ANy other names you can share? I received the same quote he did for a similar part from Fictiv.
thanks for the video this really helped me out a lot. im printing everything with fuzz now. it looks so much better than layer lines
Cura and Prusa Slicer (which bambu studio is built on) also have fuzzy skin. I'm glad to see more people using it and im glad you made a video about it (and the product journey), it has been available for years and barely seems to be mentioned.
That’s what people been telling me that it’s been around for a while. I think it does need more attention because I never heard about it until recently. It’s a really helpful tool if you put it in the right scenario!
I'm just about to buy a 3d printer and have been thinking long and hard how it solve the layer line issue, since that's something that will bug me. Glad this video popped up and thanks for sharing!
There’s a lot of great printers out there! My favorite being Creality and Bambu Lab . It’s a fun adventure once you get started! Check out our Discord (liked in the video description) if you have any questions or want to share your projects once you get started! Hope to see you around!
Great video!! Thank you! I have a part i’m trying to match and this is exactly what i was looking for!! Can’t believe i haven’t seen this before!
It’s comments like yours that make me love making videos! I’m glad this helped! I’d love to see pictures of what you’re working on! You can post them in our Discord (linked in the description) if you want! I hope to see you around in future videos :)
I loved this video!! Thank you for sharing! It helped me out a lot 😊
I felt this video in my soul after having gone through the exact process you did. I have had a product injection molded before but it cost over 100k and the end result wasn’t even much stronger than an fdm part. Currently selling my anycubic m3 max because of the brittleness
It’s not easy!
This is an excellent video.
I'm learning 3D printing for car parts, and wanted to create dash parts that fit in without that "3D Printed" look.
You addressed the issue perfectly and concisely. There's clearly a lot of data and time gone into this process - the editing is first rate.
Thank you for this video, for taking the time and care.
Use modifier with fuzzy skin turned off so you dont need to sand down the fuzzy skin from where you dont want it ( 9:04 ). You can also do what Yagoa said in other comment and make fuzzy skin as a modifier, eg. cube, and overlap that with the places where you want the fuzzy skin to appear.
That’s awesome! Thank you so much for sharing that! I’ll give it a try!
how can be done??😮
@@FrankP83 hopefully I can figure it out!
@jakemgrim waiting for your tutorial Jake!However this night I've experienced the fuzzy with your 0.3 0.3 setting and the result is pretty nice!Thanks!
@@FrankP83 awesome! I would love to see pictures of the part you made if you’d like to share them in our discord! I put the link in the video description
Fuzzy skin has been available in Cura for several years now......this is not a new thing or singular to Bambu labs
That’s great! I’m going to try it on my Creality CR-10 next!
There was a fork of Prusa where someone was trying to add the tessellation ability (think displacement/normal maps) to the slicer so you could do your own 3d texturing to the model without external tools like Blender, but I don't think it ever made it past a prototype phase.
It would be great if this were revived, to allow textures like woodgrain, leather, etc.
I love your calm, detailed and helpfullly informative presentation style! Subscribed!
Thank you! I really appreciate your positive feedback. I’ve been getting a lot of negative comments and yours made me smile :)
THANK YOU for this tip... It is a real viable solution to a part not looking like a cheap 3D print
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it!
Wow, thank you. I am buying my first 3d printer ever (Bambu Lab X1C) in about 2 weeks. This will be a great help.
I for one appreciated the story. I understand some people just wanted the single phrase “use fuzzy skin” but if you are a maker, these are all relevant steps/ideas you would try. Probably saved a lot of people a lot of time. Definitely was helpful for me!
thank you for your sharing, definitely try this when my printer arrives
One of the most helpful videos I have seen in a while, the fact that my A1 is my main 3d printer and I have been looking to get this effect on some of my prints is amazing as I randomly came across this video. Any additional tips you have for bambu slicer in video format would be amazing, your delivery is bang on and easy to understand !!
Thank you so much for your positive comment! It made me smile! I try to get better with each video I post. I need to dig around in Bambu Studio before I make another 3D printing video (about a month or so). My goal is one video like this per week, so I hope you stick around for future videos! The next few will be about microcontrollers, prototyping, and creating a product you can sell to customers. But have no fear, there will definitely be more 3D printing videos to come!
Also, I posted a video a few weeks ago on how to print TPU with the A1
Also also, if you want to share pictures and videos of your projects, I hope you consider joining our Discord community! I love seeing what other people make! The link is in the description :)
Fantastic video and super tip. Thanks for sharing.
It’s my pleasure! I had a blast making the video. I hope to see you around in the common section of future videos :)
Thanks for the reply. Not going to change filaments any time soon. Bambu had a sale this weeked for 32% off and free shipping so I bought 4 more rolls of PLA. The printer is in my office inside my house so the med temp is probably 70 degrees and it is on a very stable surface. It is self-calibrating machine (P1S) and the temps are 219/220 c and 55/55c. Just a hobby for me and not a business so learning as I go and when I have time. Lots to learn! Good luck with your business.
Again, thanks for your video,
Tony
Fuzzy skin is a feature that Bambu Studio inherited from Prusa Slicer. Most likely they also got if from someone/somewhere else 😉 It's hard to discover who originally made this.
But that does not matter to me. I never looked at this feature or knew how to use it so kudos to you for learning me somet hing new 👍
Thank you my friend! I want to try it with my Creality CR-10 next! That printer is a tank! BTW I like your profile pic ;) Hope to see you around!
Omg THANK YOU I was searching like hell for a solution.
Thanks for your time to test it💪😊I will try it today😎
Very well made video and the fuzz looks great! For those that are looking to hide layer lines (from Title of the video) you may want to revisit the resin 3D printing. There are many resins out there that have varying degrees of strengths and some eliminate warping. Another idea would be to create a silicone mold from a sanded part if you wanted a non-fuzzy surface.
Thank you! I really want to give resin 3D printing another shot. Have you ever made a silicone mold? I’ve also been wanting to give it a try!
@@jakemgrim I have not, but watch other RUclipsrs that do. The CrafsMan SteadyCraftin is a great resource and he mentions others in the field.
Jake, use mesh cubes to interrupt the fuzzy skin features for parts that need the tolerancing, it's a little tedious, but 30 minutes of that saves you hours in post processing. Especially because fuzzy skin in randomized, and your average variance will vary per part.
Thank you Daniel! I never even considered that! That’s going to save a bunch of time! I hope you stick around for future videos to provide similar feedback to help me improve! You are awesome my friend :)
Thank you for 1) this video and 2) your tenacity. I'll quote you: "Fail your way to success." Outstanding advice.👍
Don't hide the pictures of the result in the beginning. That's a bad habit like the theacher that hides text on an overhead projector because he don't want you to read further. Read presentation zen and you will know why.
Is that a book? Presentation Zen?
Nice video! Good to see the entire process and what goes in to making a product! I looked through the entire comment section but couldn't find an answer to my question. Maybe it's in there and I just missed it. 😅
I was really wondering what kind of fillament you are using for your final product?
I just bought my own printer, a BambuLab P1S and I'm looking for tips and tricks for using it and what material to use for what purpose. Thanks in advance!😁
How would you compensate for the fuzz on your splicer? using a .3mm thickness and .3mm point distance. would you increase the scale, or axis effected by .6mm? I have something I am printing that clamps over something, but I forgot about the tolerance change due to the fuzz. Obviously it will not clamp over and stay connected. Any advice will be welcome :) Thank you
Loved your story and presentation! Thanks for sharing .
I’m glad you enjoyed it! It was my pleasure! I hope you stick around for future videos :)
resin warping and brittleness is a direct correlation to the resin you are using.
Crap! Really? Which resins do you recommend I use?
@@jakemgrim If you plan to cast the materials they make casting resins. I would think you would want to go that route but Ive never used those. I have a Phrozen Mini 8ks and I use the Phrozen Aqua 8K 3D Printing Resin. And get no warping or anything once I have it dialed in.
Fuzz works and your results are good, though the slowdown is quite a lot. When we tested it, controlling where it gets applied was an issue because it leaked through a USB socket hole and wrapped around on the inside, causing issues for some internal parts of the design. A way to paint on where it's applied or a smarter algorithm to limit it to the outside would be good. Something else we tried is Bambu sparkle filament, and that reduced the appearance of layer lines nicely along with a well tuned Bambu producing great surfaces anyway. Not to everyone's taste, but we had good results with boxes we've been making. I also printed something at either 0.12 or 0.08 which worked well. Longer to print, but then so is fuzzy, so if you're open to accepting longer print times, that's another approach.
I'm going to have to try that! Thank you for your feedback! Some people have commented about using a modifier such as the same STL file but increased by 0.2x and moved up slightly to apply the fuzz. I have not tried it yet though. Also, I'd love to see your finished results if you would like to share them in our Discord linked in the description! Hope to see you around friend!
Great video! It surely contributes not only to avoid extra costs and effort to obtain a final product but also avoid a lot of polution with sanded microplastics and other harmful chemicals!
Great info, subscribed, thanks!
My pleasure! I look forward to seeing you around!
You can use modifiers to make certain areas fuzzy but keep those interlocking areas clean.
One ive tried for smoothing, i saw it somewhere on youtube but you spray a layer of soray paint with a layer of polyurethane before the paint dries. A couple layers and the lines are gone. Im not 100% on wether it was the spray paint first or the polyurethanesince its been a while but it works pretty decently
That’s a cool idea! I should try it!
Free medical advice: always wear a P100 mask while sanding and spray painting (ideally with VOC protection with the latter).
You are SO right! My buddy has been telling me that for a while and I need to do it! Any particular one you recommend?
Do you use ironing with the fuzzy skin setting?
I wish I would've seen this sooner before printing out some proton pack parts. I knew this feature existed but didn't think about using it for a more subtle texture. And I was going to get some spray on bed liner to add the texture my existing parts but maybe I'll just reprint them while testing this setting just to see how it goes.
Thank you for the video! ❤ Gonna try this out
You’re welcome my friend!
So helpful ty
Your welcome :)
Excellent, detailed and interesting video- from long time ultimaker and (recent) bamboo user.
Thank you! I was obsessed with the ultimaker when it first came out! I even made my own reprap version. How are you liking your bamboo versus your ultimaker?
Thanks Jake for showcasing fuzzy skin. PrusaSlicer has it too (but fewer options?), so best case it works with any printer. I'll try it out. Have you posted a high resolution photo of your test prints somewhere? Thanks in advance.
It was my pleasure! I had a blast making the video! You make a good point about high resolution pictures. If you join our Discord community (liked in the description), I can post the pictures there! You can also message me through my website and I can send you pictures! Hope to see you around :)
May i ask, how did you get the fuzzy skin on the bottom layer that was in contact with the bed?
I don't know his setup for sure, but I'm guessing the bottom layer texture is from the texture of the print bed.
I actually bought a 3d printed part that used this and it's really interesting to see how and why
It all comes full circle my friend :)
Dude this is amazing, thank you for your help and keep making videos 😉
Thank you dude! Hopefully someday I can be as cool as you!
Great idea using the fuzzy skin. An hour extra for printing easily trumps your 1 to several days sand/primer/paint method.
Thank you! I hope this helps!
With regards to having to sand sections of your part for tolerances, you can 'paint' a section of your model in bambu studio and tell it not to generate fuzzy skin for this section. Great video!
Hi there! Do you have any recommendations on a good beginners 3D printer? Ive been designing 3D renders of shoes in Gravity Sketch that id like to test out for prototypes. After watching this video you seem very knowledgable of 3D printers so I thought id ask! Haha
Save you 10 minutes: use fuzz skin
This is actually really useful advice. I've glanced at the setting before but never really considered trying it as no one really suggested it and I figured it created actual fuzzy skin in the form of intentional stringing. Thanks! I'll definitely give this a go on our X1C soon.
Glad to hear this helps! If you want to share pictures or videos of your projects you can post them in our discord linked above! Hope to see you around!
Today i learned! Thanks for the awesome video
My pleasure! That’s why I love making videos! Hope to see you around in future videos!
The fuzzy skin doesn't look too good, unless an object calls for it, it just looks cheap. I prefer the layer lines with light sanding.
Awesome! Thanks 🙏🏻
Consider printing your cases at a 45 deg slant from vertical, using a custom CAD modeled support gantry with tiny sprues and turning off slicer created supports.
First, you could get fuzzy skin on what would be the top of your housing. I use this method for custom electronics enclosures. Second, the diagonal orientation can a lot of strength to prints in a way that can't be gotten with injection molded parts, due to how molds have to be designed to release. Third, the fuzz skin turns out even better, as the layer line orientation is not laying on any of the the cardinal axes.
Thanks for the fuzz combo testing. Do you have close up shots of each combo online somewhere, like Flickr?
I suppose it is just easier and more useful to print a bunch of my own samples plates.
MJF printed parts are pretty dang affordable.. Alternatively, filaments like Protopasta Empire strikes black PETG hide layer lines really well (similar to Carbon fiber filaments without the damage to the nozzle)
It's funny seeing you go through the same process as I did, getting quotes for injection molding the resin printers etc etc.. good luck with your endeavours.
Thank you!
Awesome Video appreciate your time with the different fuzzy skin settings. I wanted to say that you can eliminate the fuzzy skin from areas that need to fit together with primitive object as a modifier for those areas.
Good to know! Thank you for taking the time provide feedback! Hope to see you around in future videos :)
Have you tried the salt-annealing method? Just submerge in fiinely powdered salt (which will hold it in place) and put it in the oven at the appropriate temperature for a few hours. Makes surface very smooth.
That sounds like a super super cool idea!!!! I’ve never heard of that but now I want to try it! Is there any issues with warping when you do that??
@@jakemgrim I haven't tried it but apparently it works pretty well if you pack the salt tightly. Salt is great because it is cheap, stable under temperature, and washes away. You can also choose how smooth you want the surface to be, by the fineness of the salt powder you use. It doesn't let me post a link here but if you search for "remelting 3d printed thermoplastics" you can see the original video that popularized the technique.
@@findlaybuch that’s such a unique idea but makes so much sense! I’m going to try it sometime! Thank you so much for sharing :)
Jake, great video. Like all the info on your journey to fuzzy skin. I have the x1 carbon and would like to see how to use a modifier to only put fuzzy skin on the outside, or only on one side. I have two halves, only want fuzzy skin on outside. Cheers!
Fuzzy skin feature is the very reason I dusted off my old 3d printer and started printing with it again. I already bought a resin printer because I wanted to get rid of the layer lines, but nothing can beat the durability of FDM parts.
Yooo Ik this guy he keeps hanging around my school we don’t know how he go there tho
I’ve may have taught you a thing or two
Prusaslicer has had this for years also. 👌 I used it for car parcel shelf brackets in grey petg, look exactly the same as the car interior texture
What settings did you use? 0.3/0.3 ?
@@jakemgrim I can't even remember tbh, 0.1protrude, with a 0.1 layer line I think 100% infill petg. It's the only time I've used it. The grey petg happened to be an exact match to the cars interior colour, to the eye at least.
@@gardian1701 good to know! I might have to try something similar with my car. Thank you for your feedback! Hope to see you around in future videos!
I'm starting to wonder if you leveled the resin printer well, or added correct supports
What is the printer you used?
Bambu Lab A1
TL, DR. I fell asleep 5 minutes in and never got to the punchline. Was there ever an ending? How is his neighbor doing today?
I am getting an A1 when I get back from vacation since I just finished my printer cabinet modification to accommodate it.
You mention that fuzzy skin disrupts the tolerances. My question is: can you set fuzzy skin to a negative value, so instead of protrusion it performs the inverse for the fuzz? I feel the answer is likely no, but if anyone has insight if negative values are usable, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks for sharing! May I know your layer height and line width?
8 minutes to say "fuzz skin". smh
Best 8 minutes of your life :D
Man stop hating get something better to do you loser
biggest lie@@jakemgrim
It was the first thing in the first 8 seconds?
Personally I like to hear what other options the person has tried and why they chose this method, it gives me much more information to base my opinions on. Great video.
Parabéns pelo seu trabalho. Sucessos!!!
Brillant ! Thanks
My pleasure! I hope you come back for more videos in the future!
Little precision about tolerences, where pieces connect you can actually simply tell the slicer to print this part without any fuzz, for a bezel for example or a ridge. so you don't have to change your tolerences :)
😮 I never try fuzzy skin. This option also seen in prusa sclicer, but I skip it, now I try it, thanks 🙏 for enlighten fuzzy skin ❤😊.
I hope it goes well! :)
Matte filament, especially if it has a subtle texture like Protopasta's fiber filled PLA, is great for hiding layer lines. It's not perfect, but it does have a huge visual impact. And if it's not quite enough, you can still use a fuzzy skin, and you can scale it back substantially to improve print speed and quality. A layer of matte varnish or clearcoat also helps.
Like Minwax Urethane thick type? Will it bite directly on ABS with no issue? Can it be painted over?
@@phreaktor I wouldn't use anything with harsh solvents. It will attack more soluble plastics like ABS, but also it offgasses some nasty vapors.
Something like Vallejo Ultra Matt is a better choice.
Jake! Great info, getting my Bambu A1 Mini tomorrow, will try Fuzz ... btw great Shirts (what brand is it? Carhartt fleece)
Thank you! I hope you love your Bambu printer as much as I love mine! You’ll have to let me know how Fuzz goes for you. If you have any questions while setting it up, you can comment it on this video or in my discord(linked in the video description) and I’ll try to help you out! And thank you, it’s a Carhartt flannel I got from my mother for Christmas! I can check the tag later to see the exact “model” it is
Does fuzzy skin option available in Cura or creality?
5:10 bro discovered the fuzzy skin option on his slicer. There, 10 mins saved