Staight to the point, NO BS / crappy background music, GREAT delivery, and lots of good info. Tightening my Y axis wheels solved the issue I had. Thank you, sir!
Thank you, finally got my bed entirely level! Now i just found out the nozzle is clogged lol, but after that ill be printing things like my life depends on it!
Ricky, I love your series. Full of userful information, straight to the point, no unnecessary talk. I finished setting up my S1 Pro based on your instructions and got a perfect first print. Great channel!
I had literally given up 3d printing for a bit due to the pain of 'leveling' getting one good test print, then the next one ruined. I would spend hours on it! Then get mad and rage quit. Now, thanks to your video, I've done 6 prints and only needed to tram my bed once! You're a lifesaver, thank you!
Oh wow, that is a great message to read. My whole channel exists to help someone just like you. I'm really glad something I put out helped you get printing again👍
Recently got my 3d printer, and I would go 1 maybe 2 or if I'm really lucky 3 prints with the Ender 3 V2 before I needed to spend at least 5min to "tram" the bed again in order to get a good starting print, and I think once my current print is done I'm definitely going to be spending some time to check the rollers of the X axis. Thank you for a very good video. No time wasted and very to the point.
A 3D printing channel that actually applies basic engineering principles to getting the best from your printer. If I had watched this video rather than the 'lets just throw your printer together and get printing in 10 minutes' videos it would have saved me a lot of grief! Some lessons in here I have already learned the hard way, but some new stuff to check out too. This should be required viewing for all new Creality printer users.
@akashic seer if your CR Touch is getting weird measurements sometimes, check floating voltage on Aluminium gantry you have; mine was ungrounded and that's problem minor for your tech (bricking electric things and bed) but serious hazard for your health
@akashic seer they, imho, are very wise. They sell what they think is achievable and easy to replace/redo and would not be (because they sell on the price nobody would like to beat, within same quality). I think they have better quality design but in-house, for them. See space programme. Also some CNC measurement machines. They have great quality and accuracy, and as I know, we don't know how they achieved that. Kudos for doing chess moves with other world parts. Personally, I started learning Mandarin Chinese.
@akashic seer last thing, you could pretty easily fix this; prepare one small plastic tie and 30cm long 1mm^2 isolated copper wire. End it with spades or plate connector like in car connectors. Disconnect powersuppy, cut tie on power supply holding the cables to motors. demount power supply only with 4 biggest screws holding it to aluminium (you may need to watch Z steps cable as it is sometimes taped to top of the powersupply cover). Only need to scratch some emulsion from the aluminium gantry where the top right screw is (assuming your Ender is lying on the right side and you see the bottom on the front). Place spades connector under the one of the remaining silver screws on the shorter wall of the there. Check connectivity between the wire another end and pin in power supply socket with the measurement device. Place the power supply back to this and put spades connector under the screw and supply body where you have scratched aluminium. Now check if any other place (near the black screws in aluminium) are 0 resistance to PE cable in the connector. And for sanity check if any other pin in power supply socket is not connected to PE, so to aluminium cage too. Best regards
You couldn’t have had better timing with this video! I just got my ender 3 v2 and I’ve been having trouble getting a good print! Got a perfect calibration cube and benchy but now my first layers are coming out 💩. Your videos are single handedly fixing my printer and I am grateful for you! Keep up the great content!
Same here ... I'm still pretty surprised that user guide is not mentionning those critical points. My hot bed was indeed absolutely not tight, as well as the horitontal guide. Thank you Ricky !
great video, i just bought my first 3d printer and i'm going insane with the leveling, sometimes a print comes out perfectly, other times it fails inmediatly and others (the most frustrating times) it fails halfway, also the clips of the bed flew out twice mid printing and started dancing above the bed i have no idea why, i'm going to try adjusting this
I agree. When tutorials are too full of unnecessary chatter, and unfunny jokes. I tend to fast forward and then miss vital info. I don't click on a tutorial, to hear about a youtubers day, or meet their dog, or their girlfriend. This guy knows his niche, and is very concise.
This is by far the best advice on youtube about keeping these printers going. You mentioned having to remove the Extruder bar to level it out on the bench separately. I just realized i had one wheel on the driveside that was not even touching the side bar. Having a tough time figuring out how to get all the wheels on both sides to sit firm and the bar staying level? After seeing the first couple of minutes of one of your videos, I knew there was more to this than just trying to level the bed for hours and pulling my hair out. I love the feeler gauge idea, thats perfect.. that stupid piece of paper idea never worked once. Do you just recommend the assembly video about getting the Extruder bar level, Ive tried the tricks in your video, but I can pick up just abit on the non-drive side of it.. Thanks again for making these videos, saving us from hours of headaches..
Hi Alan, if the roller that isn't touching the vertical extrusion is not adjustable, that says to me that the bracket that holds the rollers is not completely straight with the X axis gantry. Assuming you have an Ender 3, have a look at this video where I go into a little more detail on aligning everything ruclips.net/video/LV1Nnohwqik/видео.html
@@RickyImpey Thanks for getting back to me. I was able to make some adjustments and get the Extruder bar much more level. I didnt even notice that wheel not touching the vertical bar. And then working in the automotive industry I had plenty of feeler gauge sets around, so I started messing with that. Moving the extruder up 0.1mm and using a feeler gauge makes so much more sense. Theres no instructions that tell you the machine will move it up by itself for the printing. So I was always just guessing with the piece of paper at how the printer would make the final adjustment. Man you should write a little book, these are by far the best instructional videos on these printers Ive seen. Yes I do have the Ender 3 pro. I do think my bed is warped in the middle pretty bad. Is there something in particular that causes this? I think it needs to be replaced. It might be more than 0.4mm off. And I think it actually came like that. Not sure where to get a decent bed besides amazon,,, but thank you again for the amazing help..
@@alanw5879 Unfortunately some of the beds do come with a warp apparently. I assume you have the original aluminium bed with the Creality stick on print surface? The V2 comes with a tempered glass bed which stays very flat but the adhesion is not quite as good in many situations. If you want a quick improvement, try to find a mirror the correct size to place on your bed. Mirrors have to be flat to provide a correct reflection so it removes a variable. I did this for a while with my CR10S Pro and it worked really well.
@@RickyImpey Well I have the bed that takes the magnetic stick on bed surface, which is great for getting prints off. The glass bed was just a pain for me. I mean it still prints great, I just noticed a difference at the center of the bed being abit lower. Im used to checking slight tolerances. How difficult is it to replace the entire bed and is there anything specific that causes bed warp? I always let my machine cool down properly before shutting it off. Ive been into adding upgraded parts and such, so I dont mind replacing the bed. My only wonder was the wiring, I assume the harness for it just unplugs underneath. I didnt assemble this machine. I bought it as a gift for my step father, and he used it once and I just grabbed it and started printing, So im adjusting some of what he did a couple years ago. Now Im down the rabbit hole of 3D printing.
@@alanw5879 There a few things that can cause a warp but it seems to main cause is just lower quality aluminium. As I'm sure you know, aluminium expands and contracts quite a bit with heat changes so some can warp over time. Others are just a little out from new which I assume is due to manufacturing processes. You could try to shim yours but it would mean removing the magnetic sticker from the bed and placing shim steel or even paper under the low spots and then sticking the magnetic sheet back on. Unfortunately this is not a very accurate process. You could try something between the magnetic layer and the print surface but you will lose some of the hold it has. Alternatively, have you considered a bl/cr touch? If you have a 32 bit board then you could add the bed probe that can then take a bed mesh and adjust accordingly.
My ender 3 s1 is now printing a 90 plus hour print of a full zise helmet. Just downloaded the file. Sliced it wit the basic support settings. Its now at 65% done and its looking amzing
This dude is epic, you are epic dude. Seriously i wish more people spoke about these issues and brought as much attention to them as you do. I also enjoyed your makeshift filament dryer using a box and heat bed. So simple, yet so effective.
I'm gonna check for this tips, I can't get my printer to print a successful first layer, I'm new to 3d printers and I'm starting to get sick of it because of this problem 😢
Really good explanation! Thank you! I got rid of all my Ender 3 problems (with glassbed and BLtouch and hours of "bed leveling", taking thinks apart, ....) easily quite different: by replacing it by an Prusa i3 MK3s ;-)
It's called bed levelling because you're making the bed level with the gantry. Leveling itself just means that you're making something parallel with something else. Without context it means you're making something level to the ground/Earth. In this context you're making bed level with the X and Y of the printer. Similar to how in a different usage, leveling land can mean either making it flat or measuring the height or when you level the playing field, you're making your score equal to someone else's. Not that tramming is necessarily wrong, levelling is just a more complete description.
I have to admit this video is really helpful even for advanced users at it contains knowledge and tips someone might not even have thought of. I especially loved the trick with the tape on the leveling wheels
I'm going to add dual linear rails so it also adds more weight. There is something to be said for machinists' lathes and mills weighing around 1000#s. And glass bed has fixed 90% of my issues.
I think I’ve had issues with gantry moving myself… suspect this might have been the cause of nozzle crashing into the bed at one point too, right after running through a bed level & starting a print.
I've been having a lot of issues with my printer here lately and of all the videos, this one has been the most helpful. You covered an area that I've yet to hear about (tightening up the bed). I'm new with all this so it's nice to finally get an answer to my problem. Thank you very much.
@@RickyImpey I agree with @d1299gator your video helped me to get the bed levelled and printed the test cat. There are some flaws but overall looks good. Now on to watching your video for installing CR touch. Thank you for your time on these videos.
HA! Yip....#3...... I have dual lead screws (CR10 V3) and was told by everyone I encountered that dual leads screws *Can't go out of alignment...* As the old saying goes...... The proof is in the pudding... I had to retram every print because of this, until I finally got fed up and stopped listening to everyone else and went to investigate, the play in the Z axis side to side and also height difference between sides after power off.... And guess what I found..... Z axis creep on one side constantly..... So, as I was not able to order a Z axis kit without it costing me an arm and a leg, I made my own..... 3D printed of course. video on my channel...... Since then I've only had to retram once and that was because I swapped out my hotend, which also needs to be said.... Any work done on the hotend may need re tramming........ Thanks for the video.
No BS, no music, no cartoons, no outlandish claims ,,, awesome ! This video really covers some essential checks we will all need to make periodically in our 3D careers. I'm 2 1/2 years in and stopped by to comment and encourage new owners to pay special attention to the points made. You WILL need this info at some point in time, I urge you to get comfortable with measuring and adjusting. It's where a lot of owners falter and fail. Great prints come from well maintained printers. Great video.
Another great video from Ricky packed full with useful information, I should have watched this before my last “bed levelling” which literally took 1 and a half hours, I can’t state how much I hate BLTouch, my previous setup with Z-Switch was simple and easy to level.
Hey when i adjust all four corners of my printer all 4 seem to be okay offering a little friction to the paper but at the middle of the print the nozzle seems to be too close to the bed what to do?
I got a Ender 3 V2 just before Xmas. Have one issue with it. For some reason the right side of the bed when printing does not put a layer down for some reason. Going to try these suggestions.
Thanks for a bullocks free and quick to the point video assisting with constant bed tramming. I've had loads of trouble with the enders l own due to the every other print needing to level business. Cheers!
Very good concise info! Over the years I've seen many talk about each of the issues, but not always at once or as clear. It's not new information, but so often still overlooked. And often misunderstood!!
This video is spottt on, i watched this video and made the changes, havent leveled my bed in a week or longer and i print almost constantly, before i watched i ordered a cr touch not realizing i needed a mainboard upgrade with it, but now im contemplating wheather i need it or not? This trick keeps evergthing close enough in line you can live tune your bed while the outline of your print is printing makong small 1/4 turn adjustments, simply put, do this before you order that extra bs this is the ticket.
I thought my bed was warped, but seeing this I will have to try these tips first. Just one question.. if you use the spring tightning to set a compresion level do I need to set the printed head height by moving the switch. Appologies if I missed you explanation, I easy miss these things :-S Thanks
Yes, once you've compressed the springs enough, then move the z height sensor so that the home position has the nozzle just kissing the bed. If you haven't seen my bed levelling video, check it out here: ruclips.net/video/_Ic00W18_ck/видео.html hopefully it will make everything clearer. If not, let me know, I want to make things as easy to understand as possible.
After doing my first few prints and noticing the gantry sagging a little bit on the right side, I immediately bought the dual-z-axis kit with 2nd lead screw. It was the very first upgrade I did on my printer, and 30 bucks well spent. I almost never have to level my bed.
On the cr10s pro v2 with bl touch, I’d loosen the couplers and let it ”settle” on its position then retighten it before I start adjusting the eccentric nut. That would relieve any unbalanced tension on the z motors. Didn’t need to add z sync belts.
I have an ender 3 s1 pro. And have the same problem every time. Front to Back. The Springs in the front are almost fully compressed and the springs in the back are so loose, the knobs are almost falling off. Most of the adjustment instructions I see only address side to side problems in the gantry uprights, and Z-Axis issues. What about the Y-Axis. There isn't really any adjustment that I can find that affect the Y-Axis. Should I try Shimming? Any Ideas?
If you look from the side of your printer, is the gantry completely perpendicular to the base? It sounds like the top could be leaning forward to get those kind of issues. If everything is square, I would reset the EEPROM to clear any bed mesh fully and then run through this video following all the steps carefully: ruclips.net/video/GmhBYOEb-ro/видео.html Be aware that resetting the EEPROM will clear any PID and e-steps settings you may have changed so note these down first so that you can input them again afterwards.
Hey I'm new to 3d printing and I got a Creality Ender 3 V2 and it works well with Printing the problem is when I try to Print something I created or something off of thingverse or Tinkercad the only thing I can print is the rabbit or the boat but for anything else It doesn't Print Even Though it Shows on the printer Screen It doesn't print but the printing time Moves but no movement from the printer i tried countless times and I was wondering if anyone knows the problem here if so please explain to me have a great day god bless
Hello Ricky, thank you so much for this video, I'm just starting into 3D printing (Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro). I'm a big fan of your lessons, I'm a Scuba Diving Instructor and use same skills for teaching, talking in a calm way, making sure I don't teach something that I don't fully know and always show practical and visual examples, just like you do. Sending you a Big Hug from Portugal!
My old TAZ 5 has 2 z-axis motors, at first I thought it was a little goofy given that is the axis that moves the least but quickly came to appreciate it when actually cranking out prints. I've only adjusted the bed once and it's been running flawlessly (with occasional non-bed related hiccups) ever since
As an aerospace and medical engineer... i approve of this message. The ONLY stock springs that are terrible are on the anet a8. They are sooooo flimsy. I had to hire 3 priest's, a cleric and a witch to gwt it to print correctly. I finally ordered some actual 3d printing springs for it, the same ones my tevo tornado uses. The twvo can go 9 months with no leveling. Maybe some baby stepping every so often but thats it. That anet a8 though..... i could smile at it and it would unlevel itself As for the silicone spacers, im mixed on that. Tramming a mil is noce because the mil surface is mounted solidly and im used to that. So with spacers, i just lower nozzle until its flush with the bed, and then just offset by 0.1mm. On a mil, there is not heat for expansion so that could be an issue at higher temps. I strictly print pla and pla+
I spend about 10 minutes levelling my bed every day but my wife is 15 stone+ and I think the frame is sagging. The duvet is in a right state when I get in too she has it all on her side
I've found that having a removable build plate helps to maintain the 'level' on my Ender 3. I use a 3mm thin piece of glass and hairspray (I know, 'old school') as my print layer and when a print is finished I don't try to pull on the print while it's still attached to the printer. Rather I release the glass and either let it cool naturally or stick the whole thing in the freezer. Either way my E3 doesn't go out of alignment while using a removable print bed. Just an FYI the glass in question is picture framing glass. Yes, it's delicate but it transfers heat very quickly and weighs less than half of the old traditional mirror. Highly recommended. My bit came out of a thrift store picture and I cut it to size. It cost me about $3 I seem to remember. Of course, Aqua-Net is becoming scarcer as old ladies and hair spray seems to be less of a thing.
Best instruction I've seem so far. On My ender 3 v2 every time a print starts i hear a hard knock on the Z drive, the bracket above the stepper was loose, tightened it up and still does it. I will try the whole Z and X alignment you mention to see if it works. I'm utterly frustrated on how random this stuff is. THANKS
Great instructional video ! I bought an Amazon liquidation "Anycubic Kobra" and had issues with the extruder feed and bed not leveling. Your leveling video shacked it for me. Moving on to the bed extruder feed now and if you could create a video for this I believe it would very useful. The Anycubic Kobra feed drive is a plastic joke, whoever had this machine rammed the extruder nozzle into the bed and the plastic gears moved in every direction. I fixed it and it took over 2 hours since I fabricated the parts that were causing the problem. I'm a talker so I'll move on, and Thank you for this highly educational video.
Not sure if you are going to get this but I was in the same boat as a lot of these folks. Hour+ of leveling getting a good test print than the actual print failing. 3 different beds, paper trick for 3 times each level, tape to level the bed (wtf this was dumb lol). It was my X axis after moving the unit a few times. Bless you sir and I thank your parents for bringing you into the world. 🎉
Eh, I tram it every time anyway. It's a habit I've picked up from manufacturing. This does make it easier though. It takes a minute or two. more than five minutes, or three tries, and I get out my tools and squares. I live in a travel trailer and temperature fluctuations can effect the adjustment springs and even put the frame out of square by a few thou. Not much, but it adds up.
Very good video my friend. I'm a newby and you are my go to guy. I now have a much better understanding of how this all works and where the problems may lie. Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Your video helped me notice that the tightener on one of my axes (the one that's positioned from left to right but rises and falls up and down) was too tight, and the little holder clip was refusing to hold onto the right-hand side because of this. Thank you for the video.
Hi Ricky, thank you for these fixes, thanks to you I have been able to print for 3-4 weeks without re-leveling the bed! But then eventually I had to re-level it and since then I have never been able to solve this issue again. Everything you mention in the video seems fine, and I have also checked if the extruder was wobbling, but nothing! Do you have any other suggestion on what may be causing this? Thank you in advance!
@@RickyImpey Thank you for your time. I have an ender 3 v2, sorry if I didn't specify it before. I got it to work once I fixed the x-axis like you show in the video, then I didn't touch anything else until the bed needed to be trammed again after a big print
Great tips and suggestions. Precisely aligning a large structure/gantry is not intuitively obvious. Your steps will prevent hours of frustration. Blessings.
Wow great tips! Just put Ender S1 together and did some of these tips but not all of them. Definitely going to tinker before my next use as it prints fine but first layer has been iffy
What I nice comment, thank you. I've never heard anyone put it that way but I really like it. It's something I will remember going forward. Be respectful of the viewer's time, love it!
From videos I have seen, A big issue is people breaking prints off the build plate . using force, scrapers etc while still atatched to the bed. invest in a good build plate, leave to cool and pick your part up off . Of course if you prefer not to use a heated bed then this is not an option for you. The easiest way to put a bed out of level is by physical force it does not always bounce back to where it was;)
For bended metal hot bed carborundum glass is the better way. But if you want to use steel sheet with PEI or build tak, you can correct imperfections with adhesive aluminium tape. I've found 0f 0.06mm thickness and can be stacked to have 0.12 and 0.18mm correction. Now my bed is perfect and I can say autoleveling is useless.
Help my bed is rattling furiously when get gets to the front of the printer during homing , also it doesn’t seem to be dead centre with the nossle when homing , can u help
I have an issue hope you can help my creality 3 v2 i cant lvl it as the knobs get loose all 4 of them budt the gab is too far can you help me i cant find eny soloution
Hi, it sounds like you need to move the z axis limit switch on the left hand side down. If it's at the lowest, there is a raised area on the back that can be filed off to allow it to go lower still.
@@RickyImpey thank you i figure it out my sprngs under where really bad damaged budt now only one knob is loose is it possible to fix that ? i moved the z axis and that helped
I HATE bed leveling & don't use my printer as often as I could because that leveling part is such a pain in the a$$. Our printer is the Ender 3 pro & I just figured out how to print via USB cord but that leveling, still the worst part.
Staight to the point, NO BS / crappy background music, GREAT delivery, and lots of good info. Tightening my Y axis wheels solved
the issue I had. Thank you, sir!
And you speak slowly and precisely THANKS
Right?! I'm soooooo tired of the snazzy intro music and video segment. This is a great video.
Thank you, finally got my bed entirely level! Now i just found out the nozzle is clogged lol, but after that ill be printing things like my life depends on it!
Ricky, I love your series. Full of userful information, straight to the point, no unnecessary talk.
I finished setting up my S1 Pro based on your instructions and got a perfect first print. Great channel!
Great, glad you find the videos helpful 👍
if only more channels on youtube were this concise and to-the-point, the world would be a better place
Thank you so much!
I had literally given up 3d printing for a bit due to the pain of 'leveling' getting one good test print, then the next one ruined. I would spend hours on it! Then get mad and rage quit.
Now, thanks to your video, I've done 6 prints and only needed to tram my bed once!
You're a lifesaver, thank you!
Oh wow, that is a great message to read. My whole channel exists to help someone just like you. I'm really glad something I put out helped you get printing again👍
Recently got my 3d printer, and I would go 1 maybe 2 or if I'm really lucky 3 prints with the Ender 3 V2 before I needed to spend at least 5min to "tram" the bed again in order to get a good starting print, and I think once my current print is done I'm definitely going to be spending some time to check the rollers of the X axis. Thank you for a very good video. No time wasted and very to the point.
A 3D printing channel that actually applies basic engineering principles to getting the best from your printer. If I had watched this video rather than the 'lets just throw your printer together and get printing in 10 minutes' videos it would have saved me a lot of grief! Some lessons in here I have already learned the hard way, but some new stuff to check out too. This should be required viewing for all new Creality printer users.
Wow, what an awesome comment! Thanks so much for letting me know you got some value out of the video.
@akashic seer you need UBL instead of ABL. Try Ender3V2S1 "professional" firmware.
@akashic seer if your CR Touch is getting weird measurements sometimes, check floating voltage on Aluminium gantry you have; mine was ungrounded and that's problem minor for your tech (bricking electric things and bed) but serious hazard for your health
@akashic seer they, imho, are very wise. They sell what they think is achievable and easy to replace/redo and would not be (because they sell on the price nobody would like to beat, within same quality).
I think they have better quality design but in-house, for them. See space programme. Also some CNC measurement machines. They have great quality and accuracy, and as I know, we don't know how they achieved that. Kudos for doing chess moves with other world parts. Personally, I started learning Mandarin Chinese.
@akashic seer last thing, you could pretty easily fix this; prepare one small plastic tie and 30cm long 1mm^2 isolated copper wire. End it with spades or plate connector like in car connectors. Disconnect powersuppy, cut tie on power supply holding the cables to motors. demount power supply only with 4 biggest screws holding it to aluminium (you may need to watch Z steps cable as it is sometimes taped to top of the powersupply cover). Only need to scratch some emulsion from the aluminium gantry where the top right screw is (assuming your Ender is lying on the right side and you see the bottom on the front). Place spades connector under the one of the remaining silver screws on the shorter wall of the there. Check connectivity between the wire another end and pin in power supply socket with the measurement device.
Place the power supply back to this and put spades connector under the screw and supply body where you have scratched aluminium. Now check if any other place (near the black screws in aluminium) are 0 resistance to PE cable in the connector. And for sanity check if any other pin in power supply socket is not connected to PE, so to aluminium cage too. Best regards
I wasted 10 hours on this just to realize it was an x axis problem. Thank you for freeing me with these pointers.
You couldn’t have had better timing with this video! I just got my ender 3 v2 and I’ve been having trouble getting a good print! Got a perfect calibration cube and benchy but now my first layers are coming out 💩. Your videos are single handedly fixing my printer and I am grateful for you! Keep up the great content!
Perfect, that's the idea🙂
Same here ... I'm still pretty surprised that user guide is not mentionning those critical points. My hot bed was indeed absolutely not tight, as well as the horitontal guide. Thank you Ricky !
I said fuck it and got the auto level as an engineer saying fuck it can fix many issues
Get a Prusa.
great video, i just bought my first 3d printer and i'm going insane with the leveling, sometimes a print comes out perfectly, other times it fails inmediatly and others (the most frustrating times) it fails halfway, also the clips of the bed flew out twice mid printing and started dancing above the bed i have no idea why, i'm going to try adjusting this
no music, straight to the point, excellent videography.
I agree. When tutorials are too full of unnecessary chatter, and unfunny jokes. I tend to fast forward and then miss vital info. I don't click on a tutorial, to hear about a youtubers day, or meet their dog, or their girlfriend. This guy knows his niche, and is very concise.
This is by far the best advice on youtube about keeping these printers going. You mentioned having to remove the Extruder bar to level it out on the bench separately. I just realized i had one wheel on the driveside that was not even touching the side bar. Having a tough time figuring out how to get all the wheels on both sides to sit firm and the bar staying level? After seeing the first couple of minutes of one of your videos, I knew there was more to this than just trying to level the bed for hours and pulling my hair out. I love the feeler gauge idea, thats perfect.. that stupid piece of paper idea never worked once. Do you just recommend the assembly video about getting the Extruder bar level, Ive tried the tricks in your video, but I can pick up just abit on the non-drive side of it..
Thanks again for making these videos, saving us from hours of headaches..
Hi Alan, if the roller that isn't touching the vertical extrusion is not adjustable, that says to me that the bracket that holds the rollers is not completely straight with the X axis gantry. Assuming you have an Ender 3, have a look at this video where I go into a little more detail on aligning everything ruclips.net/video/LV1Nnohwqik/видео.html
@@RickyImpey Thanks for getting back to me. I was able to make some adjustments and get the Extruder bar much more level. I didnt even notice that wheel not touching the vertical bar. And then working in the automotive industry I had plenty of feeler gauge sets around, so I started messing with that. Moving the extruder up 0.1mm and using a feeler gauge makes so much more sense. Theres no instructions that tell you the machine will move it up by itself for the printing. So I was always just guessing with the piece of paper at how the printer would make the final adjustment. Man you should write a little book, these are by far the best instructional videos on these printers Ive seen. Yes I do have the Ender 3 pro. I do think my bed is warped in the middle pretty bad. Is there something in particular that causes this? I think it needs to be replaced. It might be more than 0.4mm off. And I think it actually came like that. Not sure where to get a decent bed besides amazon,,, but thank you again for the amazing help..
@@alanw5879 Unfortunately some of the beds do come with a warp apparently. I assume you have the original aluminium bed with the Creality stick on print surface? The V2 comes with a tempered glass bed which stays very flat but the adhesion is not quite as good in many situations. If you want a quick improvement, try to find a mirror the correct size to place on your bed. Mirrors have to be flat to provide a correct reflection so it removes a variable. I did this for a while with my CR10S Pro and it worked really well.
@@RickyImpey Well I have the bed that takes the magnetic stick on bed surface, which is great for getting prints off. The glass bed was just a pain for me. I mean it still prints great, I just noticed a difference at the center of the bed being abit lower. Im used to checking slight tolerances. How difficult is it to replace the entire bed and is there anything specific that causes bed warp? I always let my machine cool down properly before shutting it off. Ive been into adding upgraded parts and such, so I dont mind replacing the bed. My only wonder was the wiring, I assume the harness for it just unplugs underneath. I didnt assemble this machine. I bought it as a gift for my step father, and he used it once and I just grabbed it and started printing, So im adjusting some of what he did a couple years ago. Now Im down the rabbit hole of 3D printing.
@@alanw5879 There a few things that can cause a warp but it seems to main cause is just lower quality aluminium. As I'm sure you know, aluminium expands and contracts quite a bit with heat changes so some can warp over time. Others are just a little out from new which I assume is due to manufacturing processes. You could try to shim yours but it would mean removing the magnetic sticker from the bed and placing shim steel or even paper under the low spots and then sticking the magnetic sheet back on. Unfortunately this is not a very accurate process. You could try something between the magnetic layer and the print surface but you will lose some of the hold it has. Alternatively, have you considered a bl/cr touch? If you have a 32 bit board then you could add the bed probe that can then take a bed mesh and adjust accordingly.
Nice video. thanks for the tips. I am going to watch your leveling video and im hoping that solves some of the problems im having w my ender 3 v2
THIS HELPED ME SO MUCH- i spent 2 days trying to fingure what was going wrong while leaving the bed and gantry
My ender 3 s1 is now printing a 90 plus hour print of a full zise helmet. Just downloaded the file. Sliced it wit the basic support settings. Its now at 65% done and its looking amzing
This dude is epic, you are epic dude. Seriously i wish more people spoke about these issues and brought as much attention to them as you do. I also enjoyed your makeshift filament dryer using a box and heat bed. So simple, yet so effective.
Thanks for the comment Jamie 👍 Glad you've enjoyed some of my videos.
Super clear video. Thanks
I'm gonna check for this tips, I can't get my printer to print a successful first layer, I'm new to 3d printers and I'm starting to get sick of it because of this problem 😢
good to see somebody doesnt repeat what everyone says and tells different stuff
Really good explanation! Thank you!
I got rid of all my Ender 3 problems (with glassbed and BLtouch and hours of "bed leveling", taking thinks apart, ....) easily quite different: by replacing it by an Prusa i3 MK3s ;-)
Yup thats why i dumped my old printer spent way to many hours trying to re level my bed and brought a Prusa i3 MK3S+ LOL
Good video, shows you know what you’re doing, incredibly helpful
It's called bed levelling because you're making the bed level with the gantry. Leveling itself just means that you're making something parallel with something else. Without context it means you're making something level to the ground/Earth. In this context you're making bed level with the X and Y of the printer.
Similar to how in a different usage, leveling land can mean either making it flat or measuring the height or when you level the playing field, you're making your score equal to someone else's.
Not that tramming is necessarily wrong, levelling is just a more complete description.
I have to admit this video is really helpful even for advanced users at it contains knowledge and tips someone might not even have thought of. I especially loved the trick with the tape on the leveling wheels
Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment 👍
One of the hardest issues of printing
I'm going to add dual linear rails so it also adds more weight. There is something to be said for machinists' lathes and mills weighing around 1000#s. And glass bed has fixed 90% of my issues.
I think I’ve had issues with gantry moving myself… suspect this might have been the cause of nozzle crashing into the bed at one point too, right after running through a bed level & starting a print.
I've been having a lot of issues with my printer here lately and of all the videos, this one has been the most helpful. You covered an area that I've yet to hear about (tightening up the bed). I'm new with all this so it's nice to finally get an answer to my problem. Thank you very much.
Thank you for leaving a comment to let me know the video helped you. Really glad it helped.
@@RickyImpey I agree with @d1299gator your video helped me to get the bed levelled and printed the test cat. There are some flaws but overall looks good. Now on to watching your video for installing CR touch. Thank you for your time on these videos.
@@af01waco great to hear you are printing, thanks for the comment 👍
HA! Yip....#3...... I have dual lead screws (CR10 V3) and was told by everyone I encountered that dual leads screws *Can't go out of alignment...* As the old saying goes...... The proof is in the pudding... I had to retram every print because of this, until I finally got fed up and stopped listening to everyone else and went to investigate, the play in the Z axis side to side and also height difference between sides after power off.... And guess what I found..... Z axis creep on one side constantly..... So, as I was not able to order a Z axis kit without it costing me an arm and a leg, I made my own..... 3D printed of course. video on my channel...... Since then I've only had to retram once and that was because I swapped out my hotend, which also needs to be said.... Any work done on the hotend may need re tramming........ Thanks for the video.
No BS, no music, no cartoons, no outlandish claims ,,, awesome !
This video really covers some essential checks we will all need to make periodically in our 3D careers.
I'm 2 1/2 years in and stopped by to comment and encourage new owners to pay special attention to the points made.
You WILL need this info at some point in time, I urge you to get comfortable with measuring and adjusting. It's where a lot of owners falter and fail. Great prints come from well maintained printers.
Great video.
Awesome comment, thanks👍
Another great video from Ricky packed full with useful information, I should have watched this before my last “bed levelling” which literally took 1 and a half hours, I can’t state how much I hate BLTouch, my previous setup with Z-Switch was simple and easy to level.
This is hands down the best 3d printing troubleshooting video anyone has made. Good job.
Hey when i adjust all four corners of my printer all 4 seem to be okay offering a little friction to the paper but at the middle of the print the nozzle seems to be too close to the bed what to do?
Hi Rick, what kind of glass bed are you using for your ender 3 s1 pro ?
Thanks dude. Got the issue where i couldn't level my printer. Too tight Z rollers were the problem.
I changed my z stop switch just to discover the problem was coming from the x axis gantry being loose
I got a Ender 3 V2 just before Xmas. Have one issue with it. For some reason the right side of the bed when printing does not put a layer down for some reason. Going to try these suggestions.
man my x was way off, the outer wheels didnt even contact the aluminium extrusion at 7.50
Thanks for a bullocks free and quick to the point video assisting with constant bed tramming. I've had loads of trouble with the enders l own due to the every other print needing to level business. Cheers!
Very good concise info! Over the years I've seen many talk about each of the issues, but not always at once or as clear. It's not new information, but so often still overlooked. And often misunderstood!!
Another great video packed full of useful information. Thanks Ricky!
This video is spottt on, i watched this video and made the changes, havent leveled my bed in a week or longer and i print almost constantly, before i watched i ordered a cr touch not realizing i needed a mainboard upgrade with it, but now im contemplating wheather i need it or not? This trick keeps evergthing close enough in line you can live tune your bed while the outline of your print is printing makong small 1/4 turn adjustments, simply put, do this before you order that extra bs this is the ticket.
Amazing videos as always. Rick knows!
I thought my bed was warped, but seeing this I will have to try these tips first.
Just one question.. if you use the spring tightning to set a compresion level do I need to set the printed head height by moving the switch. Appologies if I missed you explanation, I easy miss these things :-S Thanks
Yes, once you've compressed the springs enough, then move the z height sensor so that the home position has the nozzle just kissing the bed. If you haven't seen my bed levelling video, check it out here: ruclips.net/video/_Ic00W18_ck/видео.html hopefully it will make everything clearer. If not, let me know, I want to make things as easy to understand as possible.
Thank you for taking the time to reply and be so helpful :-) Ill try that tomorrow!
After doing my first few prints and noticing the gantry sagging a little bit on the right side, I immediately bought the dual-z-axis kit with 2nd lead screw. It was the very first upgrade I did on my printer, and 30 bucks well spent. I almost never have to level my bed.
As a new user of 3d printing I find your videos invaluable to my success as a beginner. I humble thank 😊you
Let's face it Ender 3 S1 is the worst printer ever produced.
On the cr10s pro v2 with bl touch, I’d loosen the couplers and let it ”settle” on its position then retighten it before I start adjusting the eccentric nut. That would relieve any unbalanced tension on the z motors. Didn’t need to add z sync belts.
I also used the saved mesh so I don’t have to keep leveling with every print. Replacing G29 with M420 S1 on Cura’s start machine gcode.
Very informative, gotta try some of this out on mine, having problems with my ender 3 v2 not wanting to get a good print starting out
I have an ender 3 s1 pro. And have the same problem every time. Front to Back. The Springs in the front are almost fully compressed and the springs in the back are so loose, the knobs are almost falling off.
Most of the adjustment instructions I see only address side to side problems in the gantry uprights, and Z-Axis issues. What about the Y-Axis. There isn't really any adjustment that I can find that affect the Y-Axis.
Should I try Shimming? Any Ideas?
If you look from the side of your printer, is the gantry completely perpendicular to the base? It sounds like the top could be leaning forward to get those kind of issues.
If everything is square, I would reset the EEPROM to clear any bed mesh fully and then run through this video following all the steps carefully: ruclips.net/video/GmhBYOEb-ro/видео.html
Be aware that resetting the EEPROM will clear any PID and e-steps settings you may have changed so note these down first so that you can input them again afterwards.
Thanks for the tips
I finally have my bed “leveled” Timmed
bro you are amazing. saved me probably 300$ because this thing was pissing me off xD. thank you!
Glad to help👍
Hey I'm new to 3d printing and I got a Creality Ender 3 V2 and it works well with Printing the problem is when I try to Print something I created or something off of thingverse or Tinkercad the only thing I can print is the rabbit or the boat but for anything else It doesn't Print Even Though it Shows on the printer Screen It doesn't print but the printing time Moves but no movement from the printer i tried countless times and I was wondering if anyone knows the problem here if so please explain to me have a great day god bless
Try this video: ruclips.net/video/e-lQPGJ3Psc/видео.html
It shows the whole process you need to go through with files that have not yet been sliced.
This is a fantastic video! Very succinct, thorough, and useful.
Great, really glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment 👍
thank dude i spend a lot time to fix and z adjust help
Hello Ricky, thank you so much for this video, I'm just starting into 3D printing (Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro). I'm a big fan of your lessons, I'm a Scuba Diving Instructor and use same skills for teaching, talking in a calm way, making sure I don't teach something that I don't fully know and always show practical and visual examples, just like you do. Sending you a Big Hug from Portugal!
Thanks very much, I like to try and explain things in the simplest way, it's good to hear I'm on the right track👍
2 mins before you begin????????? why???????
excelent vid! thank you!
my bed gets unlevel at least once a day. spenign more time adjusting it then printing.
Thanks. Following
My old TAZ 5 has 2 z-axis motors, at first I thought it was a little goofy given that is the axis that moves the least but quickly came to appreciate it when actually cranking out prints. I've only adjusted the bed once and it's been running flawlessly (with occasional non-bed related hiccups) ever since
As an aerospace and medical engineer... i approve of this message.
The ONLY stock springs that are terrible are on the anet a8. They are sooooo flimsy. I had to hire 3 priest's, a cleric and a witch to gwt it to print correctly. I finally ordered some actual 3d printing springs for it, the same ones my tevo tornado uses. The twvo can go 9 months with no leveling. Maybe some baby stepping every so often but thats it.
That anet a8 though..... i could smile at it and it would unlevel itself
As for the silicone spacers, im mixed on that. Tramming a mil is noce because the mil surface is mounted solidly and im used to that. So with spacers, i just lower nozzle until its flush with the bed, and then just offset by 0.1mm.
On a mil, there is not heat for expansion so that could be an issue at higher temps. I strictly print pla and pla+
By fare one of the best - Simple and logical methods and explanations. A huge thanks from me! keep up the stellar work! Cheers Westy
when I condense the springs and then auto home, the bed is too low for the nozzle. How do I rectify this? (new to 3d Printing)
There are different answers to this depending on what setup you have. What 3d printer do you have?
I spend about 10 minutes levelling my bed every day but my wife is 15 stone+ and I think the frame is sagging. The duvet is in a right state when I get in too she has it all on her side
🤣
I've found that having a removable build plate helps to maintain the 'level' on my Ender 3. I use a 3mm thin piece of glass and hairspray (I know, 'old school') as my print layer and when a print is finished I don't try to pull on the print while it's still attached to the printer. Rather I release the glass and either let it cool naturally or stick the whole thing in the freezer. Either way my E3 doesn't go out of alignment while using a removable print bed.
Just an FYI the glass in question is picture framing glass. Yes, it's delicate but it transfers heat very quickly and weighs less than half of the old traditional mirror. Highly recommended. My bit came out of a thrift store picture and I cut it to size. It cost me about $3 I seem to remember. Of course, Aqua-Net is becoming scarcer as old ladies and hair spray seems to be less of a thing.
Thanks for your comment. It's good to hear what has worked for others.
Best instruction I've seem so far. On My ender 3 v2 every time a print starts i hear a hard knock on the Z drive, the bracket above the stepper was loose, tightened it up and still does it. I will try the whole Z and X alignment you mention to see if it works. I'm utterly frustrated on how random this stuff is. THANKS
i rarely have to lvl my ender 3 s1.
this video is very informative . I recommend to all beginners.- thanks
Thanks, hopefully it is helping people with some of the common issues.
5 minutes into this is ridiculous just buy a prusa, the bed is fixed there is no leveling automatic you guys have fun with enders
Wish i made that decision
i level after every like 10th print
Great instructional video ! I bought an Amazon liquidation "Anycubic Kobra" and had issues with the extruder feed and bed not leveling. Your leveling video shacked it for me. Moving on to the bed extruder feed now and if you could create a video for this I believe it would very useful. The Anycubic Kobra feed drive is a plastic joke, whoever had this machine rammed the extruder nozzle into the bed and the plastic gears moved in every direction. I fixed it and it took over 2 hours since I fabricated the parts that were causing the problem. I'm a talker so I'll move on, and Thank you for this highly educational video.
Not sure if you are going to get this but I was in the same boat as a lot of these folks. Hour+ of leveling getting a good test print than the actual print failing. 3 different beds, paper trick for 3 times each level, tape to level the bed (wtf this was dumb lol). It was my X axis after moving the unit a few times. Bless you sir and I thank your parents for bringing you into the world. 🎉
Thanx bro. You the man!
Eh, I tram it every time anyway. It's a habit I've picked up from manufacturing. This does make it easier though. It takes a minute or two. more than five minutes, or three tries, and I get out my tools and squares. I live in a travel trailer and temperature fluctuations can effect the adjustment springs and even put the frame out of square by a few thou. Not much, but it adds up.
Very good video my friend. I'm a newby and you are my go to guy. I now have a much better understanding of how this all works and where the problems may lie. Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Finally! - somebody on a YT 3D printing channel that I feel confident knows what he's talking about... 🙂
I didn't know you can tighten the rollers, I've been messing with this thing for weeks. Thank you
Your video helped me notice that the tightener on one of my axes (the one that's positioned from left to right but rises and falls up and down) was too tight, and the little holder clip was refusing to hold onto the right-hand side because of this. Thank you for the video.
Thank you for the straight forward logic, the last suggestion did cross my mind but I didn't know how to verify it. I'll try this later
Glad I found your video! Now I can fix my bed wobbling issue! Will be checking my gantry too! Thank you!
Hi Ricky, thank you for these fixes, thanks to you I have been able to print for 3-4 weeks without re-leveling the bed!
But then eventually I had to re-level it and since then I have never been able to solve this issue again. Everything you mention in the video seems fine, and I have also checked if the extruder was wobbling, but nothing! Do you have any other suggestion on what may be causing this? Thank you in advance!
Was thewre anything you did after watching the video the first time to get things working? What printer do you have?
@@RickyImpey Thank you for your time.
I have an ender 3 v2, sorry if I didn't specify it before.
I got it to work once I fixed the x-axis like you show in the video, then I didn't touch anything else until the bed needed to be trammed again after a big print
I spent 3 hours levelling my bed, and I still fell out. Thanks for the informative video, and for not trying to yell over a rock concert.
Great tips and suggestions. Precisely aligning a large structure/gantry is not intuitively obvious. Your steps will prevent hours of frustration. Blessings.
Wow great tips! Just put Ender S1 together and did some of these tips but not all of them. Definitely going to tinker before my next use as it prints fine but first layer has been iffy
This is such a fantastic video, well done
Aside from the smart content, you present it in a way that's so respectful of our time as viewers. Love it
What I nice comment, thank you. I've never heard anyone put it that way but I really like it. It's something I will remember going forward. Be respectful of the viewer's time, love it!
Thanks for this video. It give me hope that I can get my bed leveling issues behind me.
Subscribed. Will try this tomorrow at work lol
Tried it. Printer working at least 1000000x better! Thanks for this!
oh my god you literally are showing me how to fix my X axis gantry. Which i had no idea what to even call it. I love you so much.
You are a gift, Mister. Such a talent, thank you very much!!!!!!!!!
Cheers mate, this is one of the most informative RUclips videos I have ever watched. Thank you
Oh, this video is for ne
Thank you very much!!!!!!!
From videos I have seen, A big issue is people breaking prints off the build plate . using force, scrapers etc while still atatched to the bed. invest in a good build plate, leave to cool and pick your part up off . Of course if you prefer not to use a heated bed then this is not an option for you. The easiest way to put a bed out of level is by physical force it does not always bounce back to where it was;)
put it to bed, hur hur hur
i feel dumb when it comes to 3d printing and this helped me understand it a bit more thank you
For bended metal hot bed carborundum glass is the better way.
But if you want to use steel sheet with PEI or build tak, you can correct imperfections with adhesive aluminium tape. I've found 0f 0.06mm thickness and can be stacked to have 0.12 and 0.18mm correction.
Now my bed is perfect and I can say autoleveling is useless.
Help my bed is rattling furiously when get gets to the front of the printer during homing , also it doesn’t seem to be dead centre with the nossle when homing , can u help
2:08, I didn’t even know I could adjust this. Great videos!
I'm so glad youtube just recommended this video for me
I have an issue hope you can help my creality 3 v2 i cant lvl it as the knobs get loose all 4 of them budt the gab is too far can you help me i cant find eny soloution
Hi, it sounds like you need to move the z axis limit switch on the left hand side down. If it's at the lowest, there is a raised area on the back that can be filed off to allow it to go lower still.
@@RickyImpey thank you i figure it out my sprngs under where really bad damaged budt now only one knob is loose is it possible to fix that ? i moved the z axis and that helped
I HATE bed leveling & don't use my printer as often as I could because that leveling part is such a pain in the a$$. Our printer is the Ender 3 pro & I just figured out how to print via USB cord but that leveling, still the worst part.