I can almost guarantee your start gcode isn’t taking advantage of the auto bed leveling features. If you aren’t telling your printer to use the auto leveling mesh it create it won’t use the data it calculated. To do a test if your printer is even using the mesh. While your first layer is printing. If you Z axis isn’t moving up and down as it’s printing across the bed it’s not using the auto level feature.
I don't think I've ever actually commented on a video, but I have owned my Kobra 2 Max for a week and have never gotten a good printout of it. I was about to return it when I found your series of videos and tried the leveling, and so far, things seem significantly better, so thank you for all of the work you put into this.
Great guide for anyone who is even remotely on the fence about checking it out. My K2Max was being a pain in my ass until I found this and followed it. First print after the guide, solid max-sized imperial dragon. Thanks Mark!
I just want to say thank you! I never click on affiliate links, but I clicked on yours. I've been struggling with my printer since I got it a week ago, and your video helped me improve my prints by giant leaps!! I'm so glad you posted this! THANK YOU! My first print today after leveling my bed looks SO MUCH BETTER (not perfect yet, but I'm so much happier with it).
@@mark4jr thank you just got mine last week and was having the same issue all good now does the anycubic slicer work better I've heard that cura can cause problems haven't had any but figured I would ask.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time to create this content. Just as soon as I solve these dreaded NTC hotend and NTC heatbed abnormal errors, I'll be leveling and recalibrating my bed. So many times I've cursed Anycubic and wished I had gotten an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max instead because nobody else online that I've found has provided the information/knowledge that you have here. Maybe now I won't have buyer's remorse quite so much.
I definitely understand where you are at, I was in a similar place with my first K2M. Once I got it dialed in though, I was printing some pretty useful parts which made me want to buy a second (at some point I fear ill have 4 of these things lol). K2M seems to do really well once they are dialed in, best of luck!
@@mark4jr Installed the silicon spacers and leveled the bed using a dial indicator. Everything is looking good! I also fixed my NTC hotend/heatbed abnormal errors by updating the firmware. Currently 21% of the way through a 9.5 hr print and apart from some light stringing, I'd say we're looking pretty good! Retraction set to 3mm and running at 120-150mm/s with Overture PLA at 210 C. Assuming this print completes successfully, I plan to test the same file multiple times running a little bit faster each time until it fails.
I can only say one thing, you are my hero, thank you very much from Spain. I've only had the printer for 4 days and it was driving me crazy, I can't wait for the supports to arrive and solve the problem, thank you so much
Hola Hector, solucionaste el problema? Esta semana me llega la mía. Te he escrito porque soy de Valencia, por si tuvieras un rato y me dijeras algunos consejos. Gracias 😊
Thanks Mark! The Idea and guide helped me as well. While the general z-offset did work for me on "most of the areas" - "some areas" had an issue. Solved after this mod.
This made me chuckle! - Did this really work? How big did you make your Aluminum tape patches? and where did you place them? Would love to see a video of you doing this.😃
@@partoftheabsoluteone4960 oh yeah just print a super big and flat thing, like a level test, then when it's done put a reasonably sized piece of tape under the bed and make sure it's flat and re level, then u should be good to go
Third day I can't print because the bed is crooked! Now I'm thinking of writing a letter to Anycubic about their mistakes! Do engineers work there? Probably not! Thanks for the video, now I continue the fight!
Howdy Mr. Foor, As a (now) retired Architect/Engineer watching your video was a wee bit of a joy for me. Your analysis/application process was most enjoyable. The fact that the Max has essentially a 'fixed' bed and relies on auto-leveling for accuracy is fine for their consumer base, but not as acceptable for those requiring a greater degree of accuracy. I count myself amoungst those ranks. Question tho'; Did you feel the need to lock down your heat bed screws once you leveled the bed? It seems that at least a dab of blue Loctite 243 would be prudent considering the constant and sharp acceleration loads the bed is subjected to repeatedly would dictate some level of locking down the screws. I presently own 4 Kobra Max's and 2 Kobra 2 Max's as they are superb work horses and all of them will addressed with some form of this 'upgrade' in mind, albeit I'll be planning on retaining the two center metal spacers to serve as the 'constant' and using the silicone spacers for the remaining six bed screws, since after watching your sped up portion of the video I did notice that you returned to the two center screws several times after adjusting the outer screws...I believe a solid center 'starting' point is not a bad idea. ; - )
the solid center point is definitely not a bad idea and I did consider doing that myself, hope that works out. I also considered adding loctite but so far its not been an issue whatsoever, I think the silicon puts enough tension on the screws they are not likely to move. Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for the useful video. Did you consider keeping one of the original steel spacers (eg, one of the centre ones) as a datum? That's what I've done in the past in other printers. Also I suggest doing the tramming having preheated the bed to (your) typical print temp for at least 30 minutes to stabilise thermal distortion in the bed and bed frame. You could use the dial indicator to investigate how much the bed deflects as it absorbs heat and how long it takes to stabilise.
Stabilizing the bed temp definitely felt like an important step, I noticed it did change after heating which makes sense. didnt consider leaving one of the spacers but that doesnt sound like a bad idea
Hey there Mark! Glad you posted this about this printer. Definitely helps us all. So I’m in the process of doing the same. How has it been turning out for you? Have you been able to get consistent good prints?
I have! The prints have been going strong, so far everything you see in the pics here have printed relatively flawlessly except for a few errors on my end (running out of filament mid-print and finding the right print settings for supports/zhop ). www.printables.com/model/755715-8080-extrududed-aluminum-profile
id also note one of the printers I have had to mess with the silicon spacers a bit post first installation, I think its because I leveled the bed while it was cold so I might recommend setting the bed to print temperature (typically 60 degrees) before you start making the adjustments with the Dial Indicators.
That’s so awesome. Compared to my Qidi X Plus 3, I’ve really had to get my hands and feet wet with this one but I really want to get it perfect for future large prints. I’ll link a short video of my results when I think I’m done to share my progress. I appreciate you again. Thank you.
I did a calibration like you do, using silicone feet and dials. The plate has a maximum tolerance of 0.10mm between the furthest points. Despite this I cannot print anything on the sides, the noozle is very very low. They have already changed my printer once and the replacement one has the same problem. My last option is to correct the flat parts down and not repeat the auto level. Do you have advice?
Thanks for the video. The outside screws are higher than the two middle on mine. Waiting on the spacers now. Dumb question tho, how do you get a thumbnail on the file?
I'm struggling bit with my Kobra 2 pro - it seems that on the same 10x10cm square it has both "too high" and "too low" textrues, and almost ok surface in the middle, but never perfect... going mad but after your video I just come to a conclusion that this whole auto leveling does nothing vs the bed alignment, only the distance.
a lot of people have that same conclusion. I think the auto leveling is definitely a tiny adjustment and some of the beds on these machines need a lot more than that. I also sorta think its an issue that can be fixed in the software as the homing of the bed level seems pretty decent so the sensor has to work OK.
@@mark4jr OH MY LORD this is it, this is the exact issue - the screws on the bed in my Kobra 2 Pro have like zero ... adjustability... (sorry, don't know the right engineering term) they can be either screwed all the way in, or are not gripping that well. This was causing the bed to be out of level with no real way of adjusting it. Why on earth they would design this like that, it's just one tension screw away from being really good. I knwo you suggested silicone distancers, I think this could also be achieved by spring screws and would allow for even more control. It baffles me how in 2024 we still mess up such simple design choices... Anyways, that's for leading me in the right direction, absolute superstar.
Great video!! Quick question...if i order the spacers from amazon how can i compensate for the gap inside and the gap difference between the middle two screws?? TIA
That would be awesome except im just getting my printer today and have not even unboxed it yet let alone think im good enough to print that on my first run😬 i wanted to do all that first because it seems to be a great start from everything Ive been reading over the k2m the past couple of days
@@Kurto2021 in the file section of the print there were multiple options, if memory serves it was not the first option. Apologies if they changed the design on the dial indicator
@@yourdadplaying I actually ended up doing this and considered updating the video. Adding the skirt works great, use a scraper and hit the line as its being laid down lowering the Z until it doesnt break free
I thought about trying that, decided its probably better to have each spacer with the same amount of frame bracket to bed support tension as possible, TPU would make the longer spacers a hair more squishy
I did this and i leveled everything and the z axis wont home and just keeps drillin my nozzle into the bed anyone have this issue i hate anycubic im only doing this cuz my dad bought this stupid printer this is why i bought bambu labs i never once leveled my bed
I would imagine the same process should work on that machine as well, not sure if the bed plate screw count would be the same or not. Almost went with the Neptune but learned its print head and bed rollers were prone to wear compared to the K2M. Big upside on the Neptune to my understanding is it has open Klipper firmware though
so far it feels like its best to calibrate the Zoffset with a cold bed to start the test print and let it heat up/begin printing based on the gcode. My theory is the thermal expansion of the bed is more consistent that way and further thermal expansion from heat soaking the bed as the print continues makes a negligible effect. this is just my personal opinion, many folks believe you should heat soak the bed for at least 30mins prior to calibarating, id just argue that if you do that and dont dont heat soak prior to every print it wont be consistent. Whenever I make a tweak to the machine and need to recalibrate ill print a test print, assess, let it cool, make adjustment, reprint and it provides good results
You're the hero the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max community needs
Kobra 3 too
I can almost guarantee your start gcode isn’t taking advantage of the auto bed leveling features. If you aren’t telling your printer to use the auto leveling mesh it create it won’t use the data it calculated.
To do a test if your printer is even using the mesh. While your first layer is printing. If you Z axis isn’t moving up and down as it’s printing across the bed it’s not using the auto level feature.
I don't think I've ever actually commented on a video, but I have owned my Kobra 2 Max for a week and have never gotten a good printout of it. I was about to return it when I found your series of videos and tried the leveling, and so far, things seem significantly better, so thank you for all of the work you put into this.
Great guide for anyone who is even remotely on the fence about checking it out. My K2Max was being a pain in my ass until I found this and followed it. First print after the guide, solid max-sized imperial dragon. Thanks Mark!
I just want to say thank you! I never click on affiliate links, but I clicked on yours.
I've been struggling with my printer since I got it a week ago, and your video helped me improve my prints by giant leaps!!
I'm so glad you posted this! THANK YOU!
My first print today after leveling my bed looks SO MUCH BETTER (not perfect yet, but I'm so much happier with it).
Really appreciate the feedback and the support!
@@mark4jr thank you just got mine last week and was having the same issue all good now does the anycubic slicer work better I've heard that cura can cause problems haven't had any but figured I would ask.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time to create this content. Just as soon as I solve these dreaded NTC hotend and NTC heatbed abnormal errors, I'll be leveling and recalibrating my bed. So many times I've cursed Anycubic and wished I had gotten an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max instead because nobody else online that I've found has provided the information/knowledge that you have here. Maybe now I won't have buyer's remorse quite so much.
I definitely understand where you are at, I was in a similar place with my first K2M. Once I got it dialed in though, I was printing some pretty useful parts which made me want to buy a second (at some point I fear ill have 4 of these things lol). K2M seems to do really well once they are dialed in, best of luck!
@@mark4jr Installed the silicon spacers and leveled the bed using a dial indicator. Everything is looking good! I also fixed my NTC hotend/heatbed abnormal errors by updating the firmware. Currently 21% of the way through a 9.5 hr print and apart from some light stringing, I'd say we're looking pretty good! Retraction set to 3mm and running at 120-150mm/s with Overture PLA at 210 C. Assuming this print completes successfully, I plan to test the same file multiple times running a little bit faster each time until it fails.
Man you're a lifesaver thank you again can't wait to do this tomorrow
I can only say one thing, you are my hero, thank you very much from Spain. I've only had the printer for 4 days and it was driving me crazy, I can't wait for the supports to arrive and solve the problem, thank you so much
Thanks for the kind words! Good luck when they arrive!
Hola Hector, solucionaste el problema? Esta semana me llega la mía. Te he escrito porque soy de Valencia, por si tuvieras un rato y me dijeras algunos consejos. Gracias 😊
Thanks Mark! The Idea and guide helped me as well.
While the general z-offset did work for me on "most of the areas" - "some areas" had an issue. Solved after this mod.
glad to hear it!
Perfect!!!!!
I've solved my issue by using some aluminum tape under the bed in the low spots, works great now
This made me chuckle! - Did this really work? How big did you make your Aluminum tape patches? and where did you place them? Would love to see a video of you doing this.😃
@@partoftheabsoluteone4960 oh yeah just print a super big and flat thing, like a level test, then when it's done put a reasonably sized piece of tape under the bed and make sure it's flat and re level, then u should be good to go
Third day I can't print because the bed is crooked! Now I'm thinking of writing a letter to Anycubic about their mistakes!
Do engineers work there? Probably not!
Thanks for the video, now I continue the fight!
contact tech support, they will likely send a new bed
cool videos please keep posting
Awesome… AWESOME! I have Kobra 2 Plus and i have the same problem. Thank you bro!
Howdy Mr. Foor, As a (now) retired Architect/Engineer watching your video was a wee bit of a joy for me. Your analysis/application process was most enjoyable. The fact that the Max has essentially a 'fixed' bed and relies on auto-leveling for accuracy is fine for their consumer base, but not as acceptable for those requiring a greater degree of accuracy. I count myself amoungst those ranks. Question tho'; Did you feel the need to lock down your heat bed screws once you leveled the bed? It seems that at least a dab of blue Loctite 243 would be prudent considering the constant and sharp acceleration loads the bed is subjected to repeatedly would dictate some level of locking down the screws. I presently own 4 Kobra Max's and 2 Kobra 2 Max's as they are superb work horses and all of them will addressed with some form of this 'upgrade' in mind, albeit I'll be planning on retaining the two center metal spacers to serve as the 'constant' and using the silicone spacers for the remaining six bed screws, since after watching your sped up portion of the video I did notice that you returned to the two center screws several times after adjusting the outer screws...I believe a solid center 'starting' point is not a bad idea. ; - )
the solid center point is definitely not a bad idea and I did consider doing that myself, hope that works out. I also considered adding loctite but so far its not been an issue whatsoever, I think the silicon puts enough tension on the screws they are not likely to move. Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for the useful video. Did you consider keeping one of the original steel spacers (eg, one of the centre ones) as a datum? That's what I've done in the past in other printers. Also I suggest doing the tramming having preheated the bed to (your) typical print temp for at least 30 minutes to stabilise thermal distortion in the bed and bed frame. You could use the dial indicator to investigate how much the bed deflects as it absorbs heat and how long it takes to stabilise.
Stabilizing the bed temp definitely felt like an important step, I noticed it did change after heating which makes sense. didnt consider leaving one of the spacers but that doesnt sound like a bad idea
I am ding this now, I ma keep two steel spacers in the middle and adjust the edges with the silicon spacers on the outside
Hey there Mark! Glad you posted this about this printer. Definitely helps us all. So I’m in the process of doing the same. How has it been turning out for you? Have you been able to get consistent good prints?
I have! The prints have been going strong, so far everything you see in the pics here have printed relatively flawlessly except for a few errors on my end (running out of filament mid-print and finding the right print settings for supports/zhop
). www.printables.com/model/755715-8080-extrududed-aluminum-profile
id also note one of the printers I have had to mess with the silicon spacers a bit post first installation, I think its because I leveled the bed while it was cold so I might recommend setting the bed to print temperature (typically 60 degrees) before you start making the adjustments with the Dial Indicators.
That’s so awesome. Compared to my Qidi X Plus 3, I’ve really had to get my hands and feet wet with this one but I really want to get it perfect for future large prints. I’ll link a short video of my results when I think I’m done to share my progress. I appreciate you again. Thank you.
i wonder if the same effect can be achieved with small O rings under the spacers?
I did a calibration like you do, using silicone feet and dials. The plate has a maximum tolerance of 0.10mm between the furthest points. Despite this I cannot print anything on the sides, the noozle is very very low. They have already changed my printer once and the replacement one has the same problem. My last option is to correct the flat parts down and not repeat the auto level. Do you have advice?
Thanks for the video. The outside screws are higher than the two middle on mine. Waiting on the spacers now. Dumb question tho, how do you get a thumbnail on the file?
on the printers display? It does it automatically when using Anycubic slicer, im not sure how to get it to show up using 3rd party slicers
I'm struggling bit with my Kobra 2 pro - it seems that on the same 10x10cm square it has both "too high" and "too low" textrues, and almost ok surface in the middle, but never perfect... going mad but after your video I just come to a conclusion that this whole auto leveling does nothing vs the bed alignment, only the distance.
a lot of people have that same conclusion. I think the auto leveling is definitely a tiny adjustment and some of the beds on these machines need a lot more than that. I also sorta think its an issue that can be fixed in the software as the homing of the bed level seems pretty decent so the sensor has to work OK.
@@mark4jr OH MY LORD this is it, this is the exact issue - the screws on the bed in my Kobra 2 Pro have like zero ... adjustability... (sorry, don't know the right engineering term) they can be either screwed all the way in, or are not gripping that well. This was causing the bed to be out of level with no real way of adjusting it. Why on earth they would design this like that, it's just one tension screw away from being really good. I knwo you suggested silicone distancers, I think this could also be achieved by spring screws and would allow for even more control. It baffles me how in 2024 we still mess up such simple design choices...
Anyways, that's for leading me in the right direction, absolute superstar.
Hello, I have a problem with my kobra2max, autoleveling doesn’t work for me, no one gives me a solution, could someone help me? Please!
I will literally pay you to come do this to my printer. lol. Please! I’m so serious.
I hope this can solve my bed levelling issues. If it does. I will not sell the printer
Great video!! Quick question...if i order the spacers from amazon how can i compensate for the gap inside and the gap difference between the middle two screws?? TIA
3d print the spacers I designed, link in the videos description
That would be awesome except im just getting my printer today and have not even unboxed it yet let alone think im good enough to print that on my first run😬 i wanted to do all that first because it seems to be a great start from everything Ive been reading over the k2m the past couple of days
the dial indicator in the link to the print is different then then one that i just bought from the link to the dial indicator
@@Kurto2021 in the file section of the print there were multiple options, if memory serves it was not the first option. Apologies if they changed the design on the dial indicator
@@mark4jr I was able to make it work. My bed was so far off from level
Is there any sort of method that you found that will allow you to check the z offset prior to printing?
i havent found anything like that with these printers unfortunately
You could add a few layers of a skirt to adjust Z offset as needed before the important part of the print begins.
@@yourdadplaying I actually ended up doing this and considered updating the video. Adding the skirt works great, use a scraper and hit the line as its being laid down lowering the Z until it doesnt break free
Think one could print these spacers out of 95 TPU?
I thought about trying that, decided its probably better to have each spacer with the same amount of frame bracket to bed support tension as possible, TPU would make the longer spacers a hair more squishy
I did this and i leveled everything and the z axis wont home and just keeps drillin my nozzle into the bed anyone have this issue i hate anycubic im only doing this cuz my dad bought this stupid printer this is why i bought bambu labs i never once leveled my bed
Neptune4Maxにする。
I would imagine the same process should work on that machine as well, not sure if the bed plate screw count would be the same or not. Almost went with the Neptune but learned its print head and bed rollers were prone to wear compared to the K2M. Big upside on the Neptune to my understanding is it has open Klipper firmware though
how do u feel about doing the whole process when bed is up to print temp? things change once hot for a time.
so far it feels like its best to calibrate the Zoffset with a cold bed to start the test print and let it heat up/begin printing based on the gcode. My theory is the thermal expansion of the bed is more consistent that way and further thermal expansion from heat soaking the bed as the print continues makes a negligible effect. this is just my personal opinion, many folks believe you should heat soak the bed for at least 30mins prior to calibarating, id just argue that if you do that and dont dont heat soak prior to every print it wont be consistent. Whenever I make a tweak to the machine and need to recalibrate ill print a test print, assess, let it cool, make adjustment, reprint and it provides good results