Stop 3d printing so slow!!! 🤯 (how to print faster)
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- Use these simple tricks to 3d print more than 3,357% faster. (no joke)
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Thanks my printing time went from 1 hour to 60 minutes, Helped a lot! I reccomend this for begginers
Is someone going to tell him 😢
@@Colton-jk4oqits a joke 😭😭
Placebo
😂
Lol
This video is more a commercial than helpful content. It seems like it was made for people who have never even 3D printed not those looking to reduce print times
I disagree. A 3 day print has loads of time to fail or have power outages. Faster is often a better finish too.
@@Hotwire_RCTrix How is your reply addressing the comment made by evank7113 above? It's like you just wrote a comment and randomly replied to his comment. His comment points out that most people who know how to print already know that increasing print speed, adding a bigger nozzle and using bigger layer height make a faster print.
@@mikefiatx19 "most people" means that not everyone knows you can do this. This video was very helpful for me and I'm sure it helped a lot of other people who didn't know or are just beginning 3D printing. I learned to push the limits of my printer a little bit.
@@MG_LIFE_LBS I am glad it worked for you and I hope you enjoy 3D printing. But the video should have been called something like 'Faster 3D printing for beginners'.
I'm probably going to come off as harsh. I don't mean to. I just want to provide constructive criticism. I feel deceived. No duh using more printers will result in a faster print. I understand you are promoting a sponsor, and that's fine. But the beginning of the video made me feel that you were going to go over slicer settings that let you print that giant benchy using one printer. First video of yours I have disliked.
@@greatestevar he does go over settings, the buying more printers is just a sponsor at the end
You’re right also he said no upgrades then immeadiately said use a larger nozzle which is upgrade or alternate purchase so immeadiately a lie
I hear what you are saying, but there was a couple decent tips that are legit. Lightning infill is pretty good and ill be honest, i didnt know i could print as fast as he did in this video. Ive been printing at work for about 6 months, all self taught so i still have alot to learn but my prints come out great on the ultimakers5. But im going slooooooow. Ususally at 30 sometimes up to 45 speed. Our prints need to be very precise so i just error on the slow side thinking it will greatly improve quality but now im thinking i could speed up a bit. Anyone got an opinion on prints speed in relation to precision? Like whats the tipping point where you atart sacrificing quality for speed. Im sure theres not one solid answer so general advice/opinions are welcome. Thanks everybody
He did go over printer settings and reduced the print time 80% and 80 hours. It was only when he printed the HUGE model that he used multiple printers. If you feel deceived, it is due to a misunderstanding on your part.
@thomas matejcik - You need to watch it again. Either your comprehension or math is bad. The initial print time was 3 days, 22 hours and 38 minutes. That’s over 94.6 hours. The final number was something like 13 hours. My math says you save over 81 hours.
TLDR:
Increase the layer height
Increase print speed
Bigger nozzle
Lightning infills
And this all reduces the quality of the print significantly.
@@MAGAMAN You don't need .1mm quality when printing something very big
AND MORE PRINTERS, THE MOST IMPORTANT PART!!1!one
You can also tweak a few parameters such as:
- number of perimeters
- perimeters speed (interior vs exterior)
- number of solid layers (bottom and top)
- speed of solid layers (bottom and inner)
- top solid layer speed, pattern and width
- infill pattern
- infill size
- infill speed
- infill every 2 layers
- infill only where needed
- travel speed
- etc.
Also, you can replace the current print system by Kilpper in order to reach faster speeds with same quality or even better.
Depending on what your goal is (speed, quality, structure, balanced, …), you should be able fine tune more settings. I am pretty sure that you can reduce you print time even more!
Please give us more details.
im new to printing, on maker website they provide printer settings, dont know if those parameters are optimal
@@J-_-S depends on material, geometry, external temp,... You will learn with time and failed prints
plz make a video on 3d printing.
@@pollrodri6254 oh yes Im failing, one piece failed to print, but rest of print has printed good. DOnt know why this shit is happening
So, while Ive considered myself a hobbyist for years(all the way back to maker farm) what I have yet to see anyone do a video is development of a filament profile from nothing and explanation of all the slicer settings OR. complete calibration process for an individual printer for any given slicer. Slicers have a ton of settings and any one miscalculation can be disastrous.
that would be helpful
Jesus Christ the good true miraculous God loves you my friend :" )
This would be so helpful for getting a profile setup on newer cura for my Lulzbot Taz6
Teaching Tech has a fantastic complete printer calibration walk through as well as profile creation
@@joshua2400 god doesn't exist. you're like a flat earther, you believe in something that can be disproven within seconds
just because you can print quicker doesn't mean you should most of the time, quality drop can be massive
😂 Micro center!!! I knew that was coming😂 to bad its 400 miles from where i live😢
i just got my first 3d printer for christmas so im a complete beginner, all these tips are for sure gonna help. thank you!
Would probably be more useful to present the percentage reduction in print time provided by each setting individually.
When it comes down to it, there are two ways to reduce print time: reduce the amount of filament used, and extrude at the maximum volume flow rate that your extruder or part cooler can handle. Wide, thick layers will result in a short print time, even at slow movement speeds. A wall that's twice as wide and twice as thick printed at half the speed still prints in half the time. It's also much easier to upgrade your max extrusion rate than to improve all the kinematics of your machine to enable faster movement speeds.
The third way is Klipper with input shaping. Better and faster commands to your printer. This removes the limitations in slow Arduino style controllers BUT your printers maximum potential will still be limited by the flow rate and kinematics of your machine (albeit the limit will be higher than without faster processing).
Need more Micro Centers in the country.
Here's a video idea, 'How To Use Plastic Welding To Fix Broken 3D Printed Parts'.
When something breaks, the simplest solution is just to print a whole new part and toss the old one. But that's wasteful when the part can just be stuck back together. Sometimes glue is the best option for this, but when something doesn't have enough surface area, you don't have glue on hand, and/or you just can't use it for one reason or another, take advantage of how parts are made in the first place and just melt them together with a soldering iron and a little filler material (the raw filament)
I use a 3D pen for this.
@@michaelbujaki2462 same
step 1, burn paper, collect ash (carbon).
Step 2, mix into cheap ass 2 part epoxy resin you can get from any discount store for a dollar,
step 3 glue/fill shit for a far more permanent/strong slightly flexible bond than you can get with any glue alone.
;o)
Check out frankly built videos. He has severel about pla welding
Yeah, you can print fast by swapping nozzle, increasing layer height and linear speed... but you must also have an extruder/hotend combo that allow you to push like three times the amount of filament in any given moment (on an Ender 3 with stock hotend/extruder you're not gonna push out 23+ mm3/s of filament at almost 10 m/s of filament speed) , not to mention the fact that you need to tune settings accordingly.
Useful knowledge, but fairly incomplete unfortunately
Enough to get you started researching for more info.
@@floridaman964 yes and no... someone could take only the info from this video and start to crank up shit, and halfway through a print find out that it doesn't work properly. One should know that this is incomplete info
@@mattgavioli6762 But in the video he said his Ender 3’s are stock, did he not?
@@supersecularboypants hence me saying "... but you must also have an extruder/hotend combo that allow you to push like three times the amount of filament in any given moment (on an Ender 3 with stock hotend/extruder you're not gonna push out 23+ mm3/s of filament at almost 10 m/s of filament speed)"
@@mattgavioli6762 One should make it very clear in the vid what is missing, and perchance include it.
Thank you for the information.
There is an option on Cura which reduces my prints from 8 hours to just 3 hours and is called “Adaptive Layers”.
I turn the option on and in most cases it dramatically reduces print time.
Does it affect the quality of the print?
Do this if you want your prints to have absolutely no accuracy or strength.. If you want faster prints, buy a printer capable of actually printing faster, or mod your own one.. It really is what it boils down to..
thanks for the link for the $100 off the Ender pro. I picked one up! Subbed!
This video was so helpful thank you ❤
You! Are the Man!!! thank you so much for that information
Thanks! I'm gonna try it out tonight!
Very interesting tips, thanks 🙏
Hi
Thank a lot for your work ! great day
Thanks for the slicing tips to make my prints faster. I will definitely give them a try. The ad plugs at the end of your video were not that painful as they seem to be for other people. Thanks again 👍🏼
You can also try increasing extrusion width
Yes you can. I did an experiment where I extruded a 0.8mm line with a 0.4mm nozzle. This really speeds up the layers.
Yeah but that's basically what he did when he changed the nozzle
@@erikschmidt2571 Most slicers set the default extrusion width to ~ 110% of nozzle size, but it can be increased to 150% or even 200%
@@erikschmidt2571 and with a 0.8 you can go up to 1.6mm line width, but turn up the heat because it will gobble the filament like you wouldn't believe.
Do you have any idea how bad the quality gets
Thank you very much for this video!! Awesome!
Adding a Volcano or other high flow nozzle can make a big difference in maximum flow rate even if you don't replace the heater block. CNC Kitchen did a great video on different nozzle solutions which can handle significantly higher speeds without underextruding.
Thanks Teach! Great video
Working on a Yosh HellBat Suit.
cheers my guy, big help. strait to the point i wanted
u saved me 3 hours on a nerf mag. thankyou good sir
You can also increase your print speed. This will slightly decrease print quality, but is totally worth it when you're printing something large. On my Ender 3 V3 SE It prints things in great quality at 200mm/s.
Can confirm, I regularly print at 350+mm/s on my Ender-3 V3 KE
I've found that using a thicker line width allows me to use a smaller wall count (just one inner and one outer wall). That makes a huge difference in speed.
Great video. Thank you.
I bought my ender 3 pro years ago... just last year I bought the Longer LK5 pro for 179.00 off of Newegg, it was a refurbished one, but it was refurbished through Longer and came with a warranty as well, it's print quality is just as good as the ENDER and can print about 2x as big.. I made some super heroes about 29" tall and look amazing.. I run both to this day.. like both of them very much THank you for this video... was helpful for sure even in 2024
Oh, look at that, *another* person who is ignoring extrusion width which is basically the magic setting that can let you print *all* of your walls in two passes at whatever thickness you want *without* increasing layer height. I'd bet, with your printer *and* a 0.3 nozzle, I could get a print profile that prints at the same speed as yours just by changing extrusion width, not even changing speeds from the defaults. (If anything, I'd probably lower speeds...)
what extrusion width would you suggest?
@@bsr8129 It depends *entirely* on how thick you want the walls to be. Mostly, I'd recommend 25% of the thickness on your external wall, 75% on the internal. Depending on your gantry max speed and some other quirks of your printer, you may need to make it 50/50. Total wall thickness of 1.2-1.6mm is equivalent to 3-4 walls with a 0.4 nozzle. For me, with my 0.3 nozzle, I'd have external set to 0.4 and internal to 1. I also like having additional perimeters on odd-layers as that makes it stronger than adding a complete second wall while using half as much filament. For the 1mm at 0.2 layer height, you would be talking something like 60mm/s for speed. The 0.4 can be up to whatever speed your gantry can handle.
The speeds are calculated based upon your flow rate and mine is about 10 cubic mm/s. (A v6 hotend)
Basically, you want your outer wall to look good and then make a single inner wall that gives all of the strength.
You’re increasing day by day, it’s incredible
This is not a video on how to print fast, it's a video on how to get the worst possible prints.
"For new customers only" is so disrespectful to current customers.
Infill doesn't really affect strength that much, if you want more strength add more walls.
great topic, thanks
The US barely has a microcenter they need to be in every major city. I have never seen one in person
Without the correct hotend and extruder combo you cannot print at more than 80mm/s without running into quality problems. The stock Bowden Ender 3 setup won’t work that well on high volumetric flow rates. Yes it is printable but you will face skipping on the extruder, or lots of under extrusions
Did you know that zigzag infill is almost as fast as lightning and its stronger.
And there is another way to speed up printing. Out walls actually print faster and concentric top and bottom layers also print faster. Adding more walls can actually speed up prints with narrow infill sections.
That helped so much
i got my prints from 1749 minutes to 409 with ONLY Settings. i made the outer lines thin and the inner ones thick but ran them both faster so that the smaller one still looks good with that extrution. strength works as well. allon a 0.4 nozzle
Banger of a video!
I don't appreciate people making videos just for a plug at the end of it. I'm on here to find information not advertisements.
Thanks for leting know About the lightning support
Apparently you haven't tried to buy a Raspberry Pi lately. Good luck with that.
Wow... just WOW! Thank you!!!
Wish I had a micro center near me
You didn’t really say what the second change is. You just say “with this change it will reduce it by 72%”. Informative video though.
make a life sized benchy and go to the ocean to go on it
it also kind of depends on what you're going for. thinner nozzles are for if you want tit to look more refined. not to say you won't see the layer lines, but you can always add a plastic filler putty and a filler primer than use whatever color you want after the primer. I still know the pain of things being expensive to print. like I'm printing a fgc6. it's the airsoft version of its 9x19 live free or die counterpart. mine also says that on it with stark printed into it. the upper took 1 day and 7 hours and the lower took 20 hrs. and that's only half of it. of course i can always sand and use a filler putty and a filler primer then paint but I just can't bring myself to do it. because i still have all the internals to print plus the grip, buffer tube, handguard, and stock. it's a major project
Thank you Steven…this vid was very informative. I’ve only been printing for a few weeks now…maybe two months top. Yesterday morning I had my first flirt with 3D printing disaster. I set the printer up and after watching it for a few layers…I set out to do other thing on the computer. It failed and I had a blow back. I cleaned it up and printed more.Tomorrow will be a tuning day thanks to your vid. You answered some questions I’ve had since before getting a 3D printer. I did get a few bigger nozzles and I’m gonna try the .6mm and speed it up thanks to your vid. I have a Elegoo Neptune 3 Max and I believe that I should have the house filled with 3D printed stuff already! LOL
Am so gonna get into this around Xmas time
you can also buy a core xy printer which is way faster and you have less problems with wobble. If speed is your main concern while keeping a baseline quality its way better than getting the ender printers.
put your speed to 999 mm/sec and print in 10 minutes
If microcenter would build a store In Tennessee I would go there.
oh well, one thing I didn't know was the lightning infill. I have 2 ender 3 with noctua fans all over. I van currently print at 100mm/s, this is double the recommended speed! so cheers to OP, for showing, that it's possible
Yea lightning is new in cura 5.0. I think the new PrusaSlicer update has lightning capabilities as well
@@avgjoeshow4208 thanks for the info, I will try it out
@@lukasdoerr yea check it out. It’s pretty sweet and can save loads of time. I wouldn’t use it on a part that you need any real strength though. But if it’s just for looks it works great
Microcenter needs to replace the Fry's that were in the San Francisco area. After Fry's closed, it left all those buildings just waiting for another person to come and take up all the customers that went there.
So what if you print faster, since the print quality is poor. Increasing the speed with an unstable printer will allow you to print garbage.
I like how the music sounds like I just unplugged something from the USB slot.
very brief and helpful
My life goal: making my filament storage look like a store shelf.
Great video!! Super helpful tips 👏
the bigger they are, the more defects they have. When I was beginner, I preferred a big printing machine. But it comes out disaster when printing big objects. I'll plan to pick a small machine with precise printing detail.
Where in the world are you paying $30 for 1kg of filament?
It usually costs that much for good stuff
There's a Micro Center opening near me in May. I wonder what kind of deals they will have.
This video is so misleading. Yeah, you'll print fast, but your prints are going to look horrendous and be incredibly squishy.
Rather than using lightning infill, I user infill support and/or gradual infill steps. They have been around in Cura from the beginning but too many people overlook them.
Can you tell me how is this done?
Install the setting guide plug-in and it gives details on all the settings and how to use them.
How is it better than lightning?
Oh how I wish we had a Micro Center where I live. Fry's closed up so now we're stuck with Best Buy! Yeahhh!
Speed up your prints by reducing the quality. What a genus.
Lol- love the Benchy’s!
you can increase printing time by bying more printers. WOW, who would have thought
Now I finally found a store where to buy filament
Are you doing any type of giving away for a 3D print in the near future? I would love to get back into 3D printing
Dont forget temperature will need to go up with speed. Upgrade your hotend and preheat your glass bed .
Wow. Never knew this was an option.
I don't have microcenter in my country :(
Really excellent. So many 3d print videos are not very useful. Printing times are a big issue and this video is right to the point. Thanks 👍
Basically by lowering your quality you speed up.
I was hoping for something that would be upgrades to speed up my larger machine without dropping quality.
upgrading hotend would also increase print speeds and making sure to use the latest Cura verison as well. There was an update awhile back that increased speeds by like 40% just from cura algorithm alone. With a new hot end, I was able to 2x speed in some cases but decided to go back down for better quality
I bought my first ender 3 at microcenter and in the first day of printing I couldn’t be happier. Can’t recommend it enough
SHOKING *HOLD UP* You're using 12mm layer, on a 0,4mm nozzle, with 20 infill and probably huge walls and infill. I would change the nozzle for a 0.8mm, reduce walls, reduce infill, if I want more speed I would increase the print speed and the nozzle heat so the filament goes smooth into the nozzle but beware the quality of the filament (the condition), the extruder (it's plastic, it's metal, be careful). HUGE PRINTS don't need high quality, we always do post processing, sanding, primer, putty, painting. I would not sell a huge print without post processing. Take the Iron-man Helmet, it can be done in 1-2 days with the correct settings but bad leveling, bad heat, you will fail and learn, it's a fantastic process of learning.
i find hard to believe the hotend on the ender 3 can push 120mm/s printing speeds with a big nozzle.
Yep you're right. He isn't taking into account that the hot end can only melt a certain volume of filament per second.
I normally print at 150mm/s with a 0.4mm nozzle. But with a 0.6mm nozzle I can barely get past 80mm/s without running into issues.
That's with bigtreetech upgraded board with nice stepper drivers and a pi running octoprint.
This guy just messed with slicer settings and took the estimated time as gospel without testing those crazy low print times.
Rated flow is inthink under 12mm³ per sec. So 0.4x120x0.28 is 13.44. So not too much for short bursts . The speed is always the top speed remember, which is achievable only if the line is long enough to accelerate to and decelarate from the max speed in the distance available. So often, the actual avg speed isn't going to be 120 per se.
Ya, you can clearly see where it starts under extruding in the video.
@@ishanmamadapur6307 , would the calculation need to be 120 x 0.27 x π x (0.4/2)^2?
IE, taking the area of the circular nozzle rather than its diameter?
Not sure as new to this so I might be missing something.
You’re telling me that all of the things that are known to make a print faster, make a print print faster?!.!
you need a 3d priner of flsun ,The era of high-speed printing has begun, and they are the leaders of the fast era
I have 3 Bambu Lab printers now. They are faster than flsun
@@3DPrinterAcademy ruclips.net/video/Ywn3KlOzcR4/видео.html
When I change my layer height from 0.2 to 0.28 my time increases by about 3hrs.
Perimiters and acceleration: Am I a joke to you?
I reduced the print quality and printing time reduced to 60%
What material or filament used here. Thanks
TLDR: Microcenter needs to stop making that deal first-order only because they're hemorrhaging money, overvaluing NTB, and screwing us, the important customers (avid repeat buyers).
It's an unfortunate result of marketing leadership overvaluing new-to-brand customers. Yes, in ecom NTB are generally worth more than returning but that model breaks down with this specific Microcenter Ender 3 deal when you take into account a) people who buy multiple 3d printers over time tend to REALLY keep buying them (so this cohort's retention is amazing), b) people who are new to 3d printing tend to NOT buy more than 1 (so this cohort's retention is shit), c) a significant percentage of "new" customers who secure this Microcenter discount are actually returning buyers gaming the system, further muddying up the data and making NTB and CAC look better than it actually is, d) while there is merit to the assumption that this deal has a big impact on mass adoption of 3d printing, I guarantee the microcenter marketing team has not accurately quantified what that impact is because it would require all the major competitors to share data and properly gauge incremental adoption which is essentially impossible, e) deep discount promotions like this only pay off if a strong retention and LTV are expected. Which is clearly not the case here.
Source: have overseen ecom for some big brands
its not that serious
Oh yeah far too many micro center things are new customer only
lol im cranking my ender 3 speed up now during print to figure out how fast i can get it
Why does MicroCenter not have a store in the SF bay area? Silicon Valley, man! Respect your roots! I'd love to shop at MC, but not enough to drive seven hours 😭
Agreed! I hate driving over the Altamont from Stockton but I'd do it if I could get the micro center deals.
I wish we had more larger and not super expensive electronics stores in Denmark with great variety. Alas, we don't.
I never like to go above 90 mm/s with my 150 USD printer, it does not happen often but if I print any faster it does sometimes skip layers, and then it would be faster to print slower in the first place
0:45 your saying that it costs money to 3D print?
no that’s how much it uses in material
yes bc filament aint free
I’m confused, you mention going to micro center to get more printers, but you can only get one printer with the promotion. And you have to have never been to a micro center before.
And without multiple printers you’re not getting that large scale bench done in a day.
Sounds like your sponsor micro center needs to just open up the coupon for everyone. We’ve all seen the stacks they have. Do they really think there’s that many new customers coming for a 3 d printer 😂
Most people that know about micro center only know because they have been there.
lol that "120mm/s" on your V2 isn't 120. that's more like 60 or 70. Stock board can't print that fast no matter what you do to your setting or firmware unless you are running klipper.
Yeah my printer moves faster than that not at 2x speed. His accels must be slow
Though if you ran a bedslinger at 120 you'd get some mid print part removal for free.. Don't ask me how I know lol
@@gotmilkbutt I have a voron bedslinger and with pei, adhesion is maybe a little too strong 😅
@@gotmilkbutt I have gone up to 200 with my V2 but the output is far from acceptable. Lol too much ringing because of the heavy bed and my part cooling was not even close to being enough
@@lancereyesromero7811 I can get ~180 on my big'ish CR-10S bedslinger with fairly good quality, with 0.6 nozzle doing 0.32 or 0.4 (don't recall) layers. It's running an SKR2 board with 2209s all around except one 5160 for a more beefy bed motor, a much more capable extruder, copper dragon with the mellow nickel-plated copper volcano block, and 70w cartridge. Plus bigger motor for the bed, low elasticity belts, and accelerometers to optimize travel/acc/deacc etc and mitigate ringing. Bed was aready heavy (no S4/S5 or Max, but still heavy), adding a magnetic flex plate, 1000W mains silicone heater pad and ceramic cotton insulation didn't help; probably added 750-800g.
There's not a whole lot of "CR-10S" left by now I guess, that I will concede.