Hello sir, I really need your help. I'm using zombie fw on the printer, to get more precise z offset, also it adds 7x7 leveling grid. However when I used octoprints bed leveling vizualiser, my bed is terribly saging in the middle. I tried to investigate and there are two screws in the middle of the bed. On these screws, there are spings, but no nuts. When I press on the bed in the middle I can flex it like several millimeters down. Also I'm using the flexible metal palte. Thank you, very much.
Unfortunately, I’m not very familiar with the zombie firmware but I’m gonna provide you a link to a video where a gentleman covers the most recent in detail. I’m not sure if his video will answer your specific question but it’s a start. I certainly don’t want to provide you any information that may worsen your situation, so please don’t think I’m passing you off. I just don’t want to pretend to know things that I don’t. I do have a question however, the springs and screws in the middle of the bed you said there’s no nuts, can you provide me some more detail? Are the screws just hanging in mid air with a spring attached to it? That to me seems very odd. Like, maybe there should’ve been some kind of adjustment screw there. Also, what brand of printer do you have specifically? ruclips.net/video/jjTgS9SmYtU/видео.html
Those screws with springs do have nuts on them, look again. Every fastener holding the heated bed down has a flat head, so you have to adjust everything from the side or bottom.
This is legit the only thing that fixed 90% of my first layer issues. Have no idea why this isn't a provided instruction for assembling the printer. Thanks a ton!
Thank you so much I was beating my head up against the wall trying to figure out how I was going to fix this problem. Your solution was perfect. Thank you once again.
Hello all. I was getting ready to do this. But before I did I took my bed off to clean it and noticed the screws that screw into the post below the heater that bed sits on. On my machine all those 2.5mm allen screws were loose. I tightened them all up and it fixed my issue. Just something simple to check.... Thanks for the video!
I’d love to see you go through the actual process of doing the work to level it. I understand the concept seeing you execute it would be immensely helpful
Thanks so much for this! Watching my first print after the adjustment and it's worlds better. Quick Tip: I found that loosening 1 screw was enough to take the tension off the belt enough to adjust one side without affecting the other.
Great video, I have the Kobra 2 Max, Kobra 2 Plus and the Kobra 2 Neo, I've gotten on successfull print off the max and plus then it went hell, the Neo worked perfectly until yesterday and I've had it for almost 2 months the max and plus less then a month I'm going to try this because it sounds exactly like what I am facing thank you
Yeah man... I love these machines. I just bought my second one and seem to be having this same issue, though more on one than the other. Awesome insight. Thanks. I will give this a go on both after this Daredevil helmet comes off. On the one sitting... the nozzle goes WAAAAY off the bed in certain areas. It is crazy to watch. I hope this helps.
Nice video mate, had the same issue hunting down how to level the bed myself. The left side was much higher. In fact the nozzle would scrape the bed at stating movement but be too high in the middle. Going to get this method done for my next print.
I have a Sovol SV 03 and an Ender 3 Pro too. The Kobra Max is the best and most reliable. The Anycubic Mono X is my only resin printer right now. I want the Mono Max next though. I agree though. I think I am going to stick with Anycubic and build my entire workshop with the Kobra Max and Mono Max.
What does “use the couplers to manually adjust the height” mean? The couplers have two bolts as well, do we unscrew these? How much adjusting did you do to each side to alter it and what height in mm was it? Thanks so much!
so it's hard to say how much you'll need to screw or unscrew. But regarding the process, I am working on a better tutorial, I was unable to shoot in detail when this video was made. but I can now get clear footage. I will have an update ASAP.
@@PrimalEdge Thanks! I will check it out. My issue got solved when I manually ran the x-bar up and down the z-axis and re-did the home setting and re-flashed everything, There was definitely something way off with mine, but its working now. Thanks for your videos and help!
That’s a good question. On this particular brand, the bed leveling generally takes care of it and you don’t have to really do anything. This video was for when you’re doing a print and you notice that first layer is really bad. So I think of it like this when you start squeezing the toothpaste out of the toothpaste tube at first it’s a nice pretty line but then if you start smashing it down, it gets really flat. Your first layers should not look like that it should all be even and smooth, and if it doesn’t, that means somehow someway it’s out of whack. I find it easier to manually adjust versus this automatic system. But I do have to admit the automatic leveling is an awesome feature. They each have their pros and cons. But you would know right off the bat in that first and second layer of Printing, whether or not you’re dealing with a level bed or not it’s obvious that it’ll be off kilter once it’s going to be thick the other side it’s gonna be flat it’s just gonna look wrong for lack of a better word
If that doesn’t work or perhaps you might want to try this first, there’s another video on my channel discussing how to make an update to the G code. Add that line item to the G code and then re-run the bed, leveling sequence, and try a test print first.
I have used your suggestion here and I've found that my rail that supports the hot end it perfectly "level" with that upper bar but it is not with the bed at all. What do we do in this instance? My back right corner is way high. So high I have to raise the z-height to not dig into the bed. Then of course, the left front is way too high and has no squish or layer bonding side to side.
I recently found a fix that solved this issue when it (yet again) creeped back up and my recommendations did not work. I'm editing a video on it, but short answer is: you need to add a line in your g-code after the 'G28 ; Home' line. in that line you will add: 'M420 1' (without the ' in it). For whatever reason, the auto-bed leveling results get erased in the slicer. that M420 1 line tells the g-code to recall the results of the bed leveling and use that. I am using CURA, each slicer may be different as to how to modify the g-code. heads up, you will only need to do this once. (video coming soon!). I hope this helps until then...
Thank you for this video. I was ready to bring this back to MicroCenter until I saw this video. Thought it was just another garbage Creality CR10 S5. This technique along with squaring up the Y axis using a framing square and adjusting the long angle supports to square up the bed front to back. Thank you again. I love this printer. I have a Bambu X1 Carbon, (2) Bambu P1S's, Prusa MK4 and a Prusa MK3 and this has become my favorite printer THANK TO PRIMAL EDGE DESIGNS!
I did this and saw great results but now my bed isnt level but everything is leveled as you showed. I ran a level print test and its really off. I cant seem to find the resolve for this. Its one thing that makes me frustrated in this printer. Bring back the manual adjusting!
Try redoing the process but before you buckle everything back up and Collett done, make sure the belt is aligned perfectly and make sure there’s enough tension on it. Don’t go too crazy with the tension but be sure it’s tighter than loose.
@@PrimalEdge haven’t had a chance to use it yet! But I recently got my max back up and running after two months of the “auto level abnormal” and notice that some parts of my bed is smooshed hard to the plate while the other side is barely smooshed. Been trying to look up how to fix for a week and your video was the first actual advice I’ve gotten so fingers crossed!
Great Video and just what I needed as mine was the same. To ask where did you get the flex plate for yours? Again thank you for the info on the level problems.
If you’re having a difficult time with retraction, and you’ve messed with the settings, and it’s still not working, it’s possible to take a look at other settings like what temperature you’re printing at whether or not the nozzle is old and perhaps might need to be replaced, things like that. Have you already went through that process and check to make sure you’re printing at the right temperature? For the record, I print my Anycubic anywhere between 215 and 220, and I have very little if any issues with stringing. And usually when I do, I swap out the nozzle and the problem is solved.
Hi, I've done this procedure several times now, however when i turn the printer on again and make it home all axis it gets unleveled again, both my z axis leadscrews are lubricated with white lithium grease, the same i use on my ender 3v2, i had to remove the top left side bearing as it gets popped out when the z axis goes up, that tells me that i have some kind of force pulling it somehow to one side, observing the tip of the leadscrew it doesn't oscilate. Comparing on my dual z axis ender the top part is ajustable and not fixed as this one. The left side of the x axis gets pulled down like 1 mm, i don't know if its the heavier weight on that side that makes that happen. Also another observation is that the external upper wheels are free to move as they want in comparison to my ender 3v2 that all wheels are pressing against the rail and only move when the axis moves up or down. Any suggestions? Thanks for the video the info provideed is much appreciated.
My third layer on bigger prints, my nozzle keeps hitting and tearing up the back of the print but not scratching the build surface, pretty sure this is the issue, I'll try this out tomorrow.
I mostly use PLA. But the settings vary from project project. If you’re just starting out, I wouldn’t do a whole lot of changing until you see how the machine is functioning for you. But for the most part you can really get into the weeds of Settings. I mainly stick to things like layer heights infill, speed and temperature. I generally run about 215 to 220 on PLA depending on the brand. Again that’s something you’ll have to get with trial and error. And the less finicky I am with details the more loose I am with the settings. Meaning that I don’t care if the layer height is a little bit higher or if the speeds a little higher, because I’m not necessarily focused on high resolution prints. If you really are focused on getting a really good print, then you would want to make sure that the speed is appropriate to the project there the temperature looks good and the layer heights are a little bit smaller. It’s hard to share a profile and say this is exactly what will work for everyone. If you think it would be helpful, please let me know, I will do a screen share of what my settings are, and what I can expect to get out of that particular project. I’m actually working on a print right now that may help. So let me know. Thanks for commenting and I hope you have a great day and especially, do not let this process frustrate you, it really can if you try and let it. But it’s so much fun once you start getting the hang of it! Welcome to the club!
@@PrimalEdge ok thanks so much and i did have one last question what support/support settings do you use as iv really been struggling to remove them without leaving marks on the print?
Again, it depends on what it is you’re making as to the best supports for the job. There is a ad in that you can get for Keira that really really explains each and every setting will be on what curate does. Let me find the ad on that I use to help me guide myself through everything from settings to what not. Also, within the support settings, you can set the tolerances, so if you back off a little bit and some of the areas, the support won’t necessarily but directly up against the model. They’ll be maybe a hair of difference between the support in the model, that makes it much easier to remove. But let me get you that added it will help you identify all the settings you need to set your print up for success.
I am having a similar issue but mine is in the back of it and i don't know how to fix it, the front of the printer is perfectly fine but the back literally scrapes the bed and i have no clue how to fix it. Do you know of any ways to fix this issue? If so let me know. Thank You. (I have an anycubic kobra plus)
Do you have any idea why the auto leveling doesn't work at all? Came home to my printer having crashed the nozzle through the infill structure, but when I tried to use the auto leveling feature, it just errored out and said to check the wiring. I did that, unplugged and replugged the leveling board, and still nothing. I love this printer as well, but I am annoyed at the fact that it was working fine and then suddenly it's not.
I have like a concave bend down the middle but just in the front half of the build plate. The other half seems perfect. Someone any tips how i can fix that?
But how to make sure the distance to the top is the same on both sides? I guess bring the whole nozle bar all the way to the top and tighten those top screws?
I’m not sure I follow the question. When you say the distance from the top, do you mean the top of the machine? And in relation to what the nozzle itself? Because I generally focus on making sure the nozzle between the nozzle tip and the bed is accurate. I don’t necessarily worry about the vertical distance as you go higher up if that first row is perfect. All the subsequent roses are gonna be perfect after that. But I’m not 100% sure I understand what you’re asking.
I don’t believe that will fix a problem with the bed being too low in the front and back. Give me some time to look at it and find out what that might be before you try to make this adjustment. This adjustment really just deals with left and right. I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.
@Primal Edge Designs Thank you so much! I'm still new to printing and I'm trying to get it all figured out so I can print my big armor pieces as simply as possible. I also have the Kobra Max if that helps.
I figured out what the problem is, at least I’m pretty sure I have! It’s too much to type, so I’m gonna put a short on my channel be on the lookout for the next 30 to 45 minutes. I think I made it clear, but if you have any questions, hit me back up.
I’m not sure. I wasn’t getting any errors per se, my auto leveling process seem to go through just fine the results however where I was getting into issues. What sort of air are you receiving?
@@PrimalEdge I'm getting a error about checking auto leveling. Received chip and hotend and no luck. Could you manually level printer. Working on problem with anycubic
I’ve been wanting to show that set up as well, but I wasn’t really sure there was that much of an appetite for that kind of content. But I’d be glad to put something together if you think you’d be interested.
The only time I had issues after everything else failed, was when the nozzle was loose. But you have to preheat the nozzle like you’re gonna load new filament, then go in with the wrench the two wrenches actually and make sure that it’s snug not crazy tight just snug if it’s loose that may be what’s causing the problem
hi i just got anycubic kobra max. how to change to 120v to 220v i cant fine it no where. and how to conn your anycubic with a usb to ultimaker cura on your computer.went i turn off my printer i can hear it desconn .went i open up ultimaker cura. it say hook up to you printer
Hello, I just bought this printer but I get a message when I want to perform the self-levelling where it mentions that the sensor has an abnormal failure, could this method help me or is there another solution?
That sounds like the area you would get if you’re not touching the hot end with one of the metal tools. When you start the leveling process, are you tapping the hot in with a tool to activate the sensor?
@@PrimalEdge Yes, I do the first step, which is to touch the sensor with the tool, the bed heats up but when it has to touch the points, before doing so it gives off a small alarm and it signals an error
So I ordered my bed plate right off the website. The Anycubic website that is. Shipping does take a tad bit longer, but I had more confidence that I was going to get exactly what I needed off the site versus what I was finding elsewhere.
@Primal Edge Designs Do you like it better than the glass? The only other magnetic one I've seen is well over 100 dollars. I have same issue with leveling and same side. Right side I can see the white lines through plastic its that thin with 0.1 offset
So what if your ribbon cable goes bad???? I have 4 Kobra Max printers. All 4 of these ribbon cables have gone bad. They will not level when this cable goes bad. Anycubic knows of this problem and has upgraded their cable. They sent me 2 cables and fixed the problem. The other 2 printers are sitting. They have told me they are out of stock! Since January!!!
that sounds like a faulty printer - something on the board may be causing that. their customer service is great, I know this from my own experiences. contact them, they will make it right.
Hello sir, I really need your help. I'm using zombie fw on the printer, to get more precise z offset, also it adds 7x7 leveling grid.
However when I used octoprints bed leveling vizualiser, my bed is terribly saging in the middle.
I tried to investigate and there are two screws in the middle of the bed. On these screws, there are spings, but no nuts.
When I press on the bed in the middle I can flex it like several millimeters down.
Also I'm using the flexible metal palte.
Thank you, very much.
Unfortunately, I’m not very familiar with the zombie firmware but I’m gonna provide you a link to a video where a gentleman covers the most recent in detail. I’m not sure if his video will answer your specific question but it’s a start. I certainly don’t want to provide you any information that may worsen your situation, so please don’t think I’m passing you off. I just don’t want to pretend to know things that I don’t. I do have a question however, the springs and screws in the middle of the bed you said there’s no nuts, can you provide me some more detail? Are the screws just hanging in mid air with a spring attached to it? That to me seems very odd. Like, maybe there should’ve been some kind of adjustment screw there. Also, what brand of printer do you have specifically?
ruclips.net/video/jjTgS9SmYtU/видео.html
Those screws with springs do have nuts on them, look again. Every fastener holding the heated bed down has a flat head, so you have to adjust everything from the side or bottom.
Dude, thanks for the tutorial, after months of bad prints, my kobra max finally works again!
Glad I could help!
This is legit the only thing that fixed 90% of my first layer issues. Have no idea why this isn't a provided instruction for assembling the printer. Thanks a ton!
Glad to hear it! Thank you
Thank you so much I was beating my head up against the wall trying to figure out how I was going to fix this problem. Your solution was perfect. Thank you once again.
I’m so glad to hear that!
You are amazing good sir. I have been fighting this for a week with no luck finding any info. Thank you thank you thank you
You are very welcome
Hello all. I was getting ready to do this. But before I did I took my bed off to clean it and noticed the screws that screw into the post below the heater that bed sits on. On my machine all those 2.5mm allen screws were loose. I tightened them all up and it fixed my issue. Just something simple to check.... Thanks for the video!
I’d love to see you go through the actual process of doing the work to level it. I understand the concept seeing you execute it would be immensely helpful
I’ll see if I can set up a more in-depth tutorial after this couple of printer done. Thanks for the feedback!
@@PrimalEdge I think I figured it out. One question though, isn’t it more important to level it to the bed instead of the top support?
Thanks so much for this! Watching my first print after the adjustment and it's worlds better. Quick Tip: I found that loosening 1 screw was enough to take the tension off the belt enough to adjust one side without affecting the other.
Great news! And thanks for the tip
do you know how to raise the motor so you can work on it?
Thank you for sharing!! I just got mine and was also shocked how little instructions I can find about this kind of thing
Thank you for that. I'll make sure to check it when my MAX arrives.
Hope all goes well!!
Your a godsend this and the back bars video helped zero in my printer it was horrendous out the box and couldn’t figure it out
If you find you’re still having some issues. There’s a G code update you can make. I have a video on that on my channel.
Thank you, sir. I am enjoying my Anycubic Kobra Max. Looking to hearing more from you about this printer.
Great video, I have the Kobra 2 Max, Kobra 2 Plus and the Kobra 2 Neo, I've gotten on successfull print off the max and plus then it went hell, the Neo worked perfectly until yesterday and I've had it for almost 2 months the max and plus less then a month I'm going to try this because it sounds exactly like what I am facing thank you
I have that same problem on the Anycubic Kobra Neo, can u please make a video about this too?😞😞😞
Yeah man... I love these machines. I just bought my second one and seem to be having this same issue, though more on one than the other. Awesome insight. Thanks. I will give this a go on both after this Daredevil helmet comes off. On the one sitting... the nozzle goes WAAAAY off the bed in certain areas. It is crazy to watch. I hope this helps.
Nice video mate, had the same issue hunting down how to level the bed myself. The left side was much higher. In fact the nozzle would scrape the bed at stating movement but be too high in the middle. Going to get this method done for my next print.
I have a Sovol SV 03 and an Ender 3 Pro too. The Kobra Max is the best and most reliable. The Anycubic Mono X is my only resin printer right now. I want the Mono Max next though. I agree though. I think I am going to stick with Anycubic and build my entire workshop with the Kobra Max and Mono Max.
Tried it your way and I was off by 4mm. Unbelievable. Prints great now.
That’s awesome!!! Congrats
What does “use the couplers to manually adjust the height” mean? The couplers have two bolts as well, do we unscrew these? How much adjusting did you do to each side to alter it and what height in mm was it? Thanks so much!
so it's hard to say how much you'll need to screw or unscrew. But regarding the process, I am working on a better tutorial, I was unable to shoot in detail when this video was made. but I can now get clear footage. I will have an update ASAP.
I just uploaded a video that went into a bit more detail. Check it out and see if that makes things a little clearer. If not, let me know.
@@PrimalEdge Thanks! I will check it out. My issue got solved when I manually ran the x-bar up and down the z-axis and re-did the home setting and re-flashed everything, There was definitely something way off with mine, but its working now. Thanks for your videos and help!
I guess I should ask. What do I use to ensure it's level? Just a leveling tool?
That’s a good question. On this particular brand, the bed leveling generally takes care of it and you don’t have to really do anything. This video was for when you’re doing a print and you notice that first layer is really bad. So I think of it like this when you start squeezing the toothpaste out of the toothpaste tube at first it’s a nice pretty line but then if you start smashing it down, it gets really flat. Your first layers should not look like that it should all be even and smooth, and if it doesn’t, that means somehow someway it’s out of whack. I find it easier to manually adjust versus this automatic system. But I do have to admit the automatic leveling is an awesome feature. They each have their pros and cons. But you would know right off the bat in that first and second layer of Printing, whether or not you’re dealing with a level bed or not it’s obvious that it’ll be off kilter once it’s going to be thick the other side it’s gonna be flat it’s just gonna look wrong for lack of a better word
You are a god! I have been struggling with this for months now and searching forever for a result. But this helped a ton!
Awesome ! Thank you so much for the tip ! I have also been looking for this issue for a while !
If that doesn’t work or perhaps you might want to try this first, there’s another video on my channel discussing how to make an update to the G code. Add that line item to the G code and then re-run the bed, leveling sequence, and try a test print first.
I have used your suggestion here and I've found that my rail that supports the hot end it perfectly "level" with that upper bar but it is not with the bed at all. What do we do in this instance? My back right corner is way high. So high I have to raise the z-height to not dig into the bed. Then of course, the left front is way too high and has no squish or layer bonding side to side.
I recently found a fix that solved this issue when it (yet again) creeped back up and my recommendations did not work. I'm editing a video on it, but short answer is: you need to add a line in your g-code after the 'G28 ; Home' line. in that line you will add: 'M420 1' (without the ' in it). For whatever reason, the auto-bed leveling results get erased in the slicer. that M420 1 line tells the g-code to recall the results of the bed leveling and use that. I am using CURA, each slicer may be different as to how to modify the g-code. heads up, you will only need to do this once. (video coming soon!). I hope this helps until then...
Thank you for this video. I was ready to bring this back to MicroCenter until I saw this video. Thought it was just another garbage Creality CR10 S5. This technique along with squaring up the Y axis using a framing square and adjusting the long angle supports to square up the bed front to back. Thank you again. I love this printer. I have a Bambu X1 Carbon, (2) Bambu P1S's, Prusa MK4 and a Prusa MK3 and this has become my favorite printer THANK TO PRIMAL EDGE DESIGNS!
Glad I could help
can you do a video showing exacly what you did please. im having the same problem on my kobra max.
I can do that
I did this and saw great results but now my bed isnt level but everything is leveled as you showed. I ran a level print test and its really off. I cant seem to find the resolve for this. Its one thing that makes me frustrated in this printer. Bring back the manual adjusting!
Try redoing the process but before you buckle everything back up and Collett done, make sure the belt is aligned perfectly and make sure there’s enough tension on it. Don’t go too crazy with the tension but be sure it’s tighter than loose.
Also, check and see if the printer's head/nozzle (whatever you want to call it) is loose on the horizontal axis. you can tighten the lower wheel.
Hey man I appreciate you posting this.
I hope it helped
@@PrimalEdge haven’t had a chance to use it yet! But I recently got my max back up and running after two months of the “auto level abnormal” and notice that some parts of my bed is smooshed hard to the plate while the other side is barely smooshed. Been trying to look up how to fix for a week and your video was the first actual advice I’ve gotten so fingers crossed!
Great Video and just what I needed as mine was the same. To ask where did you get the flex plate for yours?
Again thank you for the info on the level problems.
I couldn’t find one that I liked on Amazon, so I got it right from the Anycubic website.
@@PrimalEdge Ok and thank you for the reply so fast.
I hope you have a natural solution for retraction; I am having a time trying to fix the stringing.
If you’re having a difficult time with retraction, and you’ve messed with the settings, and it’s still not working, it’s possible to take a look at other settings like what temperature you’re printing at whether or not the nozzle is old and perhaps might need to be replaced, things like that. Have you already went through that process and check to make sure you’re printing at the right temperature? For the record, I print my Anycubic anywhere between 215 and 220, and I have very little if any issues with stringing. And usually when I do, I swap out the nozzle and the problem is solved.
@@PrimalEdge, Thanks; I print at 195. I will try 215. I changed the nozzle already.
Very curious, please let me know how it turns out
that printer looks awesome
It’s a beast, for sure
Is it possible to make a video of you doing this in real time? I understand what you're telling us to do, but I can't visualize it.
Yeah, I can do that. Give me a couple of days. I’ve got some prints going on right now.
@@PrimalEdge thanks, mate.
@@noahlevine2838 you bet, glad I could help (at least i hope I can)
Hi, I've done this procedure several times now, however when i turn the printer on again and make it home all axis it gets unleveled again, both my z axis leadscrews are lubricated with white lithium grease, the same i use on my ender 3v2, i had to remove the top left side bearing as it gets popped out when the z axis goes up, that tells me that i have some kind of force pulling it somehow to one side, observing the tip of the leadscrew it doesn't oscilate.
Comparing on my dual z axis ender the top part is ajustable and not fixed as this one.
The left side of the x axis gets pulled down like 1 mm, i don't know if its the heavier weight on that side that makes that happen.
Also another observation is that the external upper wheels are free to move as they want in comparison to my ender 3v2 that all wheels are pressing against the rail and only move when the axis moves up or down.
Any suggestions?
Thanks for the video the info provideed is much appreciated.
@@hydradragon13 before homing, run the auto level. Even though you've trued your Z, your bed is still set to its previous leveling location.
My third layer on bigger prints, my nozzle keeps hitting and tearing up the back of the print but not scratching the build surface, pretty sure this is the issue, I'll try this out tomorrow.
When’s the last time you swapped out the nozzles tip?
@@PrimalEdge It's brand new, Just built it two days ago
Hello your video is so helpful, I got the exactly same problem.
Dude how can I get ahold of you? i have had this Kobra Max since may have only printed the owl and cant seem to find anything that works right.
What curs settings do you use for PLA and PETG? [ i have recently bought a anycubic vyper ]
I mostly use PLA. But the settings vary from project project. If you’re just starting out, I wouldn’t do a whole lot of changing until you see how the machine is functioning for you. But for the most part you can really get into the weeds of Settings. I mainly stick to things like layer heights infill, speed and temperature. I generally run about 215 to 220 on PLA depending on the brand. Again that’s something you’ll have to get with trial and error. And the less finicky I am with details the more loose I am with the settings. Meaning that I don’t care if the layer height is a little bit higher or if the speeds a little higher, because I’m not necessarily focused on high resolution prints. If you really are focused on getting a really good print, then you would want to make sure that the speed is appropriate to the project there the temperature looks good and the layer heights are a little bit smaller. It’s hard to share a profile and say this is exactly what will work for everyone. If you think it would be helpful, please let me know, I will do a screen share of what my settings are, and what I can expect to get out of that particular project. I’m actually working on a print right now that may help. So let me know. Thanks for commenting and I hope you have a great day and especially, do not let this process frustrate you, it really can if you try and let it. But it’s so much fun once you start getting the hang of it! Welcome to the club!
@@PrimalEdge ok thanks so much and i did have one last question what support/support settings do you use as iv really been struggling to remove them without leaving marks on the print?
Again, it depends on what it is you’re making as to the best supports for the job. There is a ad in that you can get for Keira that really really explains each and every setting will be on what curate does. Let me find the ad on that I use to help me guide myself through everything from settings to what not. Also, within the support settings, you can set the tolerances, so if you back off a little bit and some of the areas, the support won’t necessarily but directly up against the model. They’ll be maybe a hair of difference between the support in the model, that makes it much easier to remove. But let me get you that added it will help you identify all the settings you need to set your print up for success.
@@PrimalEdge ok, thank you so much for all your help.
And also how do i do it on the anycubic vyper as it dose have a top belt?
I am having a similar issue but mine is in the back of it and i don't know how to fix it, the front of the printer is perfectly fine but the back literally scrapes the bed and i have no clue how to fix it. Do you know of any ways to fix this issue? If so let me know. Thank You. (I have an anycubic kobra plus)
Gracias me está pasando lo mismo pero con la anycubic Kobra. Voy a probar lo que dices y te comento.
Qué tal? Te funcionó? Tengo el mismo problema pero solo en una esquina
Do you have any idea why the auto leveling doesn't work at all? Came home to my printer having crashed the nozzle through the infill structure, but when I tried to use the auto leveling feature, it just errored out and said to check the wiring. I did that, unplugged and replugged the leveling board, and still nothing. I love this printer as well, but I am annoyed at the fact that it was working fine and then suddenly it's not.
that I am not sure of. I would contact customer support, I can atest from 1st hand experience, they are great to deal with.
Thank you sir
Duuude :D I want layers like that
I have like a concave bend down the middle but just in the front half of the build plate. The other half seems perfect.
Someone any tips how i can fix that?
Thank you!
But how to make sure the distance to the top is the same on both sides?
I guess bring the whole nozle bar all the way to the top and tighten those top screws?
I’m not sure I follow the question. When you say the distance from the top, do you mean the top of the machine? And in relation to what the nozzle itself? Because I generally focus on making sure the nozzle between the nozzle tip and the bed is accurate. I don’t necessarily worry about the vertical distance as you go higher up if that first row is perfect. All the subsequent roses are gonna be perfect after that. But I’m not 100% sure I understand what you’re asking.
issue im having is seeming that the Z-offset is not correct after doing a leveling calibration. Not sure what else to do.
Does this fix the issue if it's the front that's too low and the back that's scraping the bed?
I don’t believe that will fix a problem with the bed being too low in the front and back. Give me some time to look at it and find out what that might be before you try to make this adjustment. This adjustment really just deals with left and right. I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.
@Primal Edge Designs Thank you so much! I'm still new to printing and I'm trying to get it all figured out so I can print my big armor pieces as simply as possible. I also have the Kobra Max if that helps.
It absolutely does! It’s a fantastic printer. It may be a little bit finicky to dial-in, but once you get it, it’s a fantastic Printer!
I figured out what the problem is, at least I’m pretty sure I have! It’s too much to type, so I’m gonna put a short on my channel be on the lookout for the next 30 to 45 minutes. I think I made it clear, but if you have any questions, hit me back up.
here you go: ruclips.net/user/shorts9ULxfndgCn8?feature=share
would this possibly work on auto leveling errors
I’m not sure. I wasn’t getting any errors per se, my auto leveling process seem to go through just fine the results however where I was getting into issues. What sort of air are you receiving?
@@PrimalEdge I'm getting a error about checking auto leveling. Received chip and hotend and no luck. Could you manually level printer. Working on problem with anycubic
This saved me!
Thank you!
That’s great news! I’m glad I was able to help :).
yes ok but i want too see your setup of your slicer too
I’ve been wanting to show that set up as well, but I wasn’t really sure there was that much of an appetite for that kind of content. But I’d be glad to put something together if you think you’d be interested.
@@PrimalEdge thank you dear!
So are you having any issues with your sensor itself? IT refuses to auto level at all
The only time I had issues after everything else failed, was when the nozzle was loose. But you have to preheat the nozzle like you’re gonna load new filament, then go in with the wrench the two wrenches actually and make sure that it’s snug not crazy tight just snug if it’s loose that may be what’s causing the problem
hi i just got anycubic kobra max. how to change to 120v to 220v i cant fine it no where. and how to conn your anycubic with a usb to ultimaker cura on your computer.went i turn off my printer i can hear it desconn .went i open up ultimaker cura. it say hook up to you printer
Hello, I just bought this printer but I get a message when I want to perform the self-levelling where it mentions that the sensor has an abnormal failure, could this method help me or is there another solution?
That sounds like the area you would get if you’re not touching the hot end with one of the metal tools. When you start the leveling process, are you tapping the hot in with a tool to activate the sensor?
@@PrimalEdge Yes, I do the first step, which is to touch the sensor with the tool, the bed heats up but when it has to touch the points, before doing so it gives off a small alarm and it signals an error
@@PrimalEdge I've been solving that problem all day and the level of extrusion since it's very thin and can't make straight lines
That sounds like something you might should call the manufacturer about. I can’t tell you that they are very very responsive.
Where you get the bed plate for it??
So I ordered my bed plate right off the website. The Anycubic website that is. Shipping does take a tad bit longer, but I had more confidence that I was going to get exactly what I needed off the site versus what I was finding elsewhere.
@Primal Edge Designs Do you like it better than the glass? The only other magnetic one I've seen is well over 100 dollars.
I have same issue with leveling and same side. Right side I can see the white lines through plastic its that thin with 0.1 offset
Hey can someone help me out my kobra max 2 is super slow even is sports mode please help me out thanks
Munes rge opposite I need too raise the front of my bed .05mm lol
trying to figure out how to raise the motor, so I can clean it...Larken54
So what if your ribbon cable goes bad???? I have 4 Kobra Max printers. All 4 of these ribbon cables have gone bad. They will not level when this cable goes bad. Anycubic knows of this problem and has upgraded their cable. They sent me 2 cables and fixed the problem. The other 2 printers are sitting. They have told me they are out of stock! Since January!!!
that sounds like a faulty printer - something on the board may be causing that. their customer service is great, I know this from my own experiences. contact them, they will make it right.
Sweet lord thank you. I could kiss you. I won’t. But I could.
are you Tom Seguras Brother?
🤔😳😂