thank you very much for this. The only drawback of the kobra max is this and you seem that you solved it. I was looking at those sheets but was never 100% it would of work. You proved it.
My test print of Owl on SD card worked great and 4 subsequent other prints have stuck to glass bed quite well. Just tired of waiting for cool down to remove print. Guess I'll have to invest in spring steel bed. Have steel bed on a Vyper and it is great.
Spray Away foam glass cleaner is the best best stuff. I also recently got some glass wipes from the dollar store and they work REALLY well too. I can clean like 5 printer beds with one wipe
I've gone through 2 stock beds since august. My first warranty replacement bed peeled after 3 weeks. I finally found a $60 spring steel sheet for it and it's great. I've used on my Ender 3s and i love, i just didn't like how much more expensive the 400x400 stuff gets above the 300x300 stuff is.
thanks for showing this, looks good... did you carry out a PID calibration of the bed as the thickness of bed would have changed... or if it really affected that at all ?
I just checked Anycubic's site to replace the bed on my Kobra Plus that had some of the print on the plate pop off. $25! Great price! Except... $25 for shipping? What the hell?
I've had a very negative experience with this very same printbed and my Kobra Max. I had adhesion (too strong ! The glass broke many times, gluing itself in the print !) and warping problems at the same time before, I was hoping this would fix these. But nope. Less adhesion for sure, and easy release, but the warping went too far... so I used lacquer (3DLac), and at last no more warping... at the beginning. After a few hours the the bed started to warp with the print, perfectly glued under it ! There is jut not enough magnetic force to resist and keep everything flat. Even with strong clips on the edges, warping still occurs, I never managed to 'warp' my head around this issue. So... I took it off and went back to the stock carborundum printbed, using clips and 3DLac again... Geee this is something, printing large objects...
Are you saying that the Glass Bed was bad for you or the Steel Bed? I have printed many things with the steel bed and it has been great. The Glass bed on the other hand if you don't remove the piece at the right temp it ends up almost permanently glued to the glass bed.
Yeah sorry I wasn’t very clear : the Steel Bed was so bad with my large prints, always warping, lifting the bed despite using clips. I tried cold to warm bed temp (from 25°C to 90°C), with & without glue, with different PLA brands… But the glass bed, as you say, can be terrible when you forget to release at the right temp°…. I broke two already !
Since I am sharing here is my start G-code too: G28 ;Home M420 L; load bed mesh M420 S1; use bed mesh G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm ;Prime the extruder G92 E0 G1 F200 E3 G92 E0 M413 S0 ;Turn off power loss recovery M300 S620 P335 ; Start Sound M300 S588 P335 M300 S556 P335 M300 S440 P335 M300 S292 P335 ; End sound
My favorite printer out of the 7 I have (not all anycubic) but I can't stand them clips....the glass plate is the best factory glass plate I have ever had that said if you have your z down just a C hair to low and it slightly drags 😢😢😢😢 1 it's it a holy pain in the arse to get cleaned enough so you don't have to use tricks to adhere
I cant get anything to stick to my glass for the life of me... pla at 210 and bed 60 - 70.. the purge line before the print is perfect.. and if i can get the first layers to go down.,. things like to come loos while printing
The first thing they say is check your Z-offset. Also I have been printing at 40mm/s, 80 is pretty fast. Did you do a bed level? Sorry if you have already tried these things. Try some aquanet on the bed. I haven't had to use it. I just preclean the bed with window cleaner.
@@tigheklory ive checked the Z offset, I tried the zombie firmware it was promising at first, had the same problems, and i agree 80 is a tab fast for this printer. I have not tried hair spray yet I do use it on my cr10s mirror bed and it works great for it.. ill give it a try and lowering the speed of the first couple layers.
I haven’t had any issue with releasing prints. I find that once the bed goes cold, the print just pops off. I have the vyper with the magnetic bed. I prefer the glass that comes as stock with the kobra max
I found that with the glass If I waited till the bed is room temp it is glued on almost permanently glued to the glass. 30 degrees Celsius was the optimal temp to remove the print, even then it was almost like super glued down. I was resorting to putting IPA on the bed around the printed object and letting it leach under with some pieces. The steel bed has been absolutely perfect, zero problems and no stress. It was totally worth the $35.
belle observation. c'est rare d'ajuster les vis du bed. Dans le pire des cas il faut percer a travers l'aimant pour y accéder. Poinconner avant serait une bonne idée après il faut aligner le tout.
So when my bed is trying to stay at temp, the printer flickers my light bulbs that's on that circuit. Doesn't flicker heating up or cooling down. Only when trying to stay at temp. There's nothing else connected on this circuit other than outlets, lights, ect. I've read to try and change my lightbulbs to 9w and they still flicker. The only other thing I could try and the writing inside the house. Any other ideas or anyone else have this issue?
Sounds like you have a wiring issue in your house. How many amp is the breaker on the circuit? How many outlets and lights do you have on that circuit?
@tigheklory @tigheklory 20 Amp, 5 outlets, ceiling fan with lights, and 3 more ceiling lights. What you just said is the only thing I can think of that's causing it. I wasn't sure if there was anything else that I could try. Thank you!
Хобби
Thanks for the epic video, I had to change my glass bed and your method of applying the new Anycubic pei sheet worked perfectly.
I just got the Cobra and when I looked up things to change on it, I realized you use the same filament I'm using in your video lmao
Thanks. INice video. 'm really enjoying my Anycubic Kobra Max. Just installed the spring steal bed. New subscriber to your channel now. Thanks.
Thanks for guide bed now replaced with spring steel thank to your video :)
thank you very much for this. The only drawback of the kobra max is this and you seem that you solved it. I was looking at those sheets but was never 100% it would of work. You proved it.
It's been really great, takes away all the frustration the glass bed had.
Thanks man, I've had the steel bed for a while but was keeping it in reserve until a print ripped a part of the glass bed off.
My test print of Owl on SD card worked great and 4 subsequent other prints have stuck to glass bed quite well. Just tired of waiting for cool down to remove print. Guess I'll have to invest in spring steel bed. Have steel bed on a Vyper and it is great.
Spray Away foam glass cleaner is the best best stuff. I also recently got some glass wipes from the dollar store and they work REALLY well too. I can clean like 5 printer beds with one wipe
I've gone through 2 stock beds since august. My first warranty replacement bed peeled after 3 weeks. I finally found a $60 spring steel sheet for it and it's great. I've used on my Ender 3s and i love, i just didn't like how much more expensive the 400x400 stuff gets above the 300x300 stuff is.
Oh I only spent $40 for mine.
@@tigheklory on the anycubic site?
thanks for showing this, looks good... did you carry out a PID calibration of the bed as the thickness of bed would have changed... or if it really affected that at all ?
The bed temp was the same using an external thermometer and it printed just fine with a bed leveling.
I'm having difficulties with slicer software and settings. Which slicer and profiles are you using? Would you like to share?
the adhesion on the glass bed is good... too good. mine shattered in half when I tried to pull a print off of it.
Where did you purchase the replacement bed?
I flipped the bed to just glass and then went to a mirror. No more sticking too much.
Can you share a link where you bought this from?
What PLA is that?
I had the grass, but it broke, taking off a printed model. Then I get the spring steel to replace it.
I just checked Anycubic's site to replace the bed on my Kobra Plus that had some of the print on the plate pop off. $25! Great price! Except... $25 for shipping? What the hell?
I've had a very negative experience with this very same printbed and my Kobra Max. I had adhesion (too strong ! The glass broke many times, gluing itself in the print !) and warping problems at the same time before, I was hoping this would fix these. But nope. Less adhesion for sure, and easy release, but the warping went too far... so I used lacquer (3DLac), and at last no more warping... at the beginning. After a few hours the the bed started to warp with the print, perfectly glued under it ! There is jut not enough magnetic force to resist and keep everything flat. Even with strong clips on the edges, warping still occurs, I never managed to 'warp' my head around this issue. So... I took it off and went back to the stock carborundum printbed, using clips and 3DLac again... Geee this is something, printing large objects...
Are you saying that the Glass Bed was bad for you or the Steel Bed? I have printed many things with the steel bed and it has been great. The Glass bed on the other hand if you don't remove the piece at the right temp it ends up almost permanently glued to the glass bed.
Yeah sorry I wasn’t very clear : the Steel Bed was so bad with my large prints, always warping, lifting the bed despite using clips. I tried cold to warm bed temp (from 25°C to 90°C), with & without glue, with different PLA brands… But the glass bed, as you say, can be terrible when you forget to release at the right temp°…. I broke two already !
How do I clean the steel plate
do you have to buy the magnetic sticker separately? or does it come with he Steel Flex bed?
It comes with it
hoy mate, nice video, do you think the magnets on that print surface might survive 110 C°?
Who runs their hotbed at 110 C°? I run my bed at 60 C°
@@tigheklorypersonally tested they actually do survive the 110 degrees
Put some tape on it to tighten the tolerance.
Hello, I have the same printer and would also like to have this magnetic disk but can not find it. Where did you get them?
I got mine off Amazon but last I checked it was sold out. You can buy it directly from AnyCubic but it's a bit more expensive than it was on Amazon.
@@tigheklory Yep. $35 on any cubic website. Delivered in Europe in 3 days. That' fast !
can this be used on the other side for a smoother finish?
Probably, I haven't tried it. I like the textured finish. If I want a smooth I can use the glass
Where did you get the spring steel sheet, I haven’t been able to find it
I bought it on Amazon from Anycubic, but it is sold out there. You can buy it directly from them, but the shipping is pretty high.
@@tigheklory would you happen to have a direct link?
@@tigheklory Aliexpress has them now for the lowest price. They ship from USA as well
can i have a link to buy it
how did u get the printer to present the part at the end, mine just moves it back so i have to manually drive it to the front
I just added to the end gcode to move the bed forward
@@tigheklory i also changed the end code in cura from x0 y0 to x0 y350 but nothing changed sadly
@@austrian_s60r64 I'll share my end Gcode tomorrow
@@austrian_s60r64 Here's my end G-Code
M104 S0
M140 S0
;Retract the filament
G92 E1
G1 E-1 F300
G28 X0 Y0
G1 Y300 F2000 ; Move Bed Forward
M300 S620 P335 ; Start Sound
M300 S588 P335
M300 S556 P335
M300 S440 P335
M300 S292 P335 ; End sound
M84
Since I am sharing here is my start G-code too:
G28 ;Home
M420 L; load bed mesh
M420 S1; use bed mesh
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm
;Prime the extruder
G92 E0
G1 F200 E3
G92 E0
M413 S0 ;Turn off power loss recovery
M300 S620 P335 ; Start Sound
M300 S588 P335
M300 S556 P335
M300 S440 P335
M300 S292 P335 ; End sound
My favorite printer out of the 7 I have (not all anycubic) but I can't stand them clips....the glass plate is the best factory glass plate I have ever had that said if you have your z down just a C hair to low and it slightly drags 😢😢😢😢 1 it's it a holy pain in the arse to get cleaned enough so you don't have to use tricks to adhere
Can't find this on anycubics website, got a link?
www.anycubic.com/collections/for-kobra-series/products/magnetic-build-plate-for-anycubic-kobra-max
@@tigheklory ahh thank you, i was on EU site, doesn't have it, will have to find other routes 🙂
I actually got mine from AnyCubic's store on Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B87S534J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@tigheklory oh nice, maybe the eu Amazon has got it, ty!
Bad experience not have any print profile for other materials only PLA
I ordered one from Anycubic. Those Chinese aren't in any hurry to ship it.
I cant get anything to stick to my glass for the life of me... pla at 210 and bed 60 - 70.. the purge line before the print is perfect.. and if i can get the first layers to go down.,. things like to come loos while printing
The first thing they say is check your Z-offset. Also I have been printing at 40mm/s, 80 is pretty fast. Did you do a bed level? Sorry if you have already tried these things. Try some aquanet on the bed. I haven't had to use it. I just preclean the bed with window cleaner.
@@tigheklory ive checked the Z offset, I tried the zombie firmware it was promising at first, had the same problems, and i agree 80 is a tab fast for this printer. I have not tried hair spray yet I do use it on my cr10s mirror bed and it works great for it.. ill give it a try and lowering the speed of the first couple layers.
I haven’t had any issue with releasing prints. I find that once the bed goes cold, the print just pops off. I have the vyper with the magnetic bed. I prefer the glass that comes as stock with the kobra max
I found that with the glass If I waited till the bed is room temp it is glued on almost permanently glued to the glass. 30 degrees Celsius was the optimal temp to remove the print, even then it was almost like super glued down. I was resorting to putting IPA on the bed around the printed object and letting it leach under with some pieces. The steel bed has been absolutely perfect, zero problems and no stress. It was totally worth the $35.
C'est cool mais comment vous fête si vous voulez changer les roulettes les vice sont cacher par le double face ? Hehe
belle observation. c'est rare d'ajuster les vis du bed. Dans le pire des cas il faut percer a travers l'aimant pour y accéder. Poinconner avant serait une bonne idée après il faut aligner le tout.
So when my bed is trying to stay at temp, the printer flickers my light bulbs that's on that circuit. Doesn't flicker heating up or cooling down. Only when trying to stay at temp. There's nothing else connected on this circuit other than outlets, lights, ect. I've read to try and change my lightbulbs to 9w and they still flicker. The only other thing I could try and the writing inside the house. Any other ideas or anyone else have this issue?
Sounds like you have a wiring issue in your house. How many amp is the breaker on the circuit? How many outlets and lights do you have on that circuit?
@tigheklory @tigheklory 20 Amp, 5 outlets, ceiling fan with lights, and 3 more ceiling lights.
What you just said is the only thing I can think of that's causing it. I wasn't sure if there was anything else that I could try. Thank you!
dude dont put alchol on a heat bed lol
Not when it's on of course