It has officially been over 3 months since Anycubic told me they’d release the source code for their use of Marlin Firmware on the Kobra Max, “in 2-3 months”. They still have not released it. When I contacted them to ask about the timeline passing, they told me "Release time of open source is uncertain but in the plan." And told me to check their Facebook page for official announcements...
I really like my Kobra Max but their attempts to keep everything proprietary are truly the main reason I cannot recommend these printers to anyone else. While I have the patience and resolve to deal with their service department, most people don’t. I’m not sure how they plan to grow the brand reputation with the attitude that their machines are just fine as they are, but it seems to be a very problematic approach.
Just get a cr10s5 if you need this build volume. Its got some problems but its bigger and all the problems can be fixed with a bl touch and printed parts.
I have a Kobra Max and plan to get a second one soon. It is my work horse. I print life-size anime characters on it and the machine runs virtually non-stop. I have to buy 5kg spools of filament to make these beasts. I know it has issues, but I love it. It was an upgrade from my Chiron.
Well then maybe you’ll love the new Kobra 2 Max they just announced. Looks like it fixes a few of my complaints with the original but I don’t have one to say. tinyurl.com/Kobra2Launch (affiliate link)
As someone who bought an anycubic mega x without much context I really appreciate your description on their marlin forks. Trying to pause prints at particular heights was also the catalyst. For a beginner it's really confusing to hear a machine is running Marlin and then have marlin gcode not work. Thanks!
The weirdest thing for me is I kept having prints fail on the z-axis with no issues with the motors. Support made me ground the power supply to the frame and voila it printed fine. WTF!? But I had no stringing or build plate issues. All of my tuning went into temp and speed. I had to change the e-steps to handle the layer lines.
a problem ive been having is that it comes out of the nozzle a few seconds late into the print, and then it just curls out of the nozzle making a huge blob on the nozzle. any tips?
What an excellent review. Thank you for your candor on the pros and cons. I have a Kobra Max and have encountered all the print issues you've shown. I'm still struggling to get good prints with larger nozzles. Thanks for the fan shroud modification and the information on printing temperature deltas over other printers. Your camera work is beautiful! And of course love the mega trash can!
I dont see why you and other have such a big issue my question for you is did you did a auto pid tune a estep tune. I was getting blobs but there is code when using protonface that you can go in turn off that fix my blob issue
I have been tweaking and tuning my max for over a month. I found stringing to be awful out of the box. Initial though was to fine tune the retraction. While it helped, it was never enough. I accidentally found out it was running way hot one day by leaving my cura setting at 190 when the filament called for 230. It turned out beautiful... It was then I realized, holy cow this things runs waaaay hot. So it's very nice to see you acknowledge this. Thanks for the great review. I will be following your videos.
2 months after this review went up, AnyCubic has released the firmware source code: github.com/ANYCUBIC-3D/Kobra_Max After digging through the config file, I can confirm that Linear Advance was NOT enabled.
dude your videos are underrated. i scrolled down after watching and expecting ALOT more views. Your transparency disclosure, attention to details and just overall video is great. some of the best videos on 3D printing i have seen.
I've had my Max for a month now and I'm printing full sized mandalorian armor pieces with .6 and .8 nozzles in pla. My speed is capped at 80mm/sec for all speed settings. My prints come out FANTASTIC!!!!! Once I'm done with my armor, I'm going to play around with increasing temp and speeds, but i don't want to jinx it right now. Ouf of the box, this is printing 14hr parts on my ender 3 in just over 9hrs. I love it! I run 215c for PLA with .6 nozzle...and 235c PLA for .8 nozzle at same speeds. Smooth lines @.28 & .32layers.. No underextrusion I level my bed once per nozzle change and print many parts without needing to level again. My ender is now my 2nd printer if I'm doing multi part projects.
I've got the plus, and outside of some of the functions that I should be able to do, it prints unbelievably well. I did have a print stick too much, so I froze it with an air canister (once the bed cooled 😆) and it popped right off. But I almost always get smooth prints stock using cura. I hope you get this dialed in more because it's an amazing line.
Pleaseeee make a video about printing with larger nozzles. I got a Neptunr 3 Max, and tried to make the switch, and i just could not get the settings tuned well for the life of me
I have the chiron. I have never, never had to pry prints off the heat bed. Just let it finish, then cool to room temperature and it literally pops off the bed.
Thank you for your video, it really tells a true story about this machine. Fan ducts are also top notch. Is there an option of you revealing your slicer settings, especially for larger nozzle sizes (0.6 and 0.8 mm)? I'm struggling a bit with my setup (both in Cura as in Prusaslicer) and am also experiencing a lot of stringing issues (retraction and temperature change deal with some of it but not all). Any advice on how to tackle the aforementioned problem? I apologize, despite your thorough effort, we still want more :)
great video but if you go over to 3DPUK he has a buddy that has come out with a firmware called zombie. IT does the 0.01 Z-axis increments adjustments. minor extra work and a bit of e-steps but well worth it. I'm just finishing up a planetary cellphone stand. worked awesome
Excellent review. And I agree on just about every point, especially regarding the firmware limitations and ANYCUBIC dragging their feet on the source code. I had to flash the Community Edition on my Vyper just to get the functionality I needed. The Z-offset resolution was a huge point of pain for me in the beginning. Also, I run Octoprint on all my printers and the stock firmware on the Vyper/Kobra Max do not play well with it. And the bed adhesion is a nightmare. I was relieved and also frustrated to see that I wasn’t the only one having that problem. Really appreciate the amount of information you packed into this review. And as always, stellar camera work. Your use of a motion rig really adds a unique touch.
@@daveglas1972The Vyper/Kobra series firmware doesn’t like Octoprint, no. Vyper has the Community Edition which runs with Octoprint very well, but nothing for the Kobra series yet.
I personally would love to see a video about printing with larger nozzles and layer heights. I've been running a .8mm nozz on my CR-6 MAX and have encountered gaps like on your elephant print. Please let me know if you'd like to chat and share info for that video, I've been trying to make large nozzle printing more viable for the last few years. I have had some great successes and some less than ideal prints all because of a few slicing tweaks. I'd be more than happy to corroborate results with my similar machine. I almost got a Kobra but i'm kinda glad I held off, the CR-6 Max is pricier (and creality lmao) but I think it handled some of your issues a little better. One major mutual pain is connecting to the machine to make adjustments like esteps, I have that issue too. Great video dude, killer ink too! Subcribed~
Extremely broad question. Folks are going to judge that differently. In my personal view, none of the sub-$1000 3D Scanners are worth using for anything beyond sculptures or things you truly do not care about dimensionality of. If you do care about that? The price jumps to $10,000+ with little in between. 3D Scanner tech is NOT caught up to 3D Printing tech as far as functionality, repeatability, and value (in a budget terms anyway).
I really enjoy watching your videos and the way you break down so much information for people that do not have your knowledge. I noticed on this video you had a huge Oscar the grouch that you had printed. Can I ask you where I might find that print file? or is it yours that you did? I would love to try it. Thanks so Much.
Hey how would you compare this to the elegoo max? Which one would you rather have? With the consideration of having to change out the hot end and heating block and thermal sensor? Would truly appreciate your thoughts.
Thank you so much on this video!!! I've been thinking about a newer 3D printer for printing cosplay! I love my CR10-S4 but sadly its showing its age and I've had more problems than solutions and I love printing armor in a full piece.
Thx for helping me decide NOT to buy this! Not cuz its bad printer but cuz of the good points u made of size and amounts of filament u gotta use! Im looking for my first 3d printer and will look for something smaller 😅
Fisher Price! Ordered one & Sent it straight back, It turned up used with a failed print left on the machine.. I Guess that's what you get for £500 so I purchased the Creality CR M4 instead.
i have the Kobra Plus and it's been doing weird things when i auto level. It pushes pretty hard on just the right side of the bed, especially the back side. I got a new sensor and went through the right-side gantry system and tightened it all. Maybe i need to do something to the bed...idk I'm stumped.
I bought my kobra max about a month ago and I was liking it until cura started crashing its very frustrating du u have any advice. It says that the object I'm trying to slice is open somewhere else. But it's not need help plz😢😢😢 I'm a beginner
THank you for your review. I liked it :) .,.. and ewoo. the red benchie.. sukcs. lol but over all .. this printer looks fun. but Im not sure i dont like the print ... its messy and just uck
WAIT, I JUST Reviewed the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max, an even BIGGER and CHEAPER printer! Check it out in this video to see how it compares: ruclips.net/video/EbQuP2mBNFs/видео.html Also Anycubic has a PEI bed for the Kobra Max now!: shrsl.com/41ozo Anycubic Kobra Max: tinyurl.com/KobraMax Elegoo Neptune 3 Max: tinyurl.com/Neptune3Max (affiliate links)
The thing that I just don't understand about this line from Anycubic, is that the Kobra Max is too big, and the Viper is too small. So why don't they have anything inbetween??? A 300x300x400 or 12"x12"x16" is the perfect size for most of what I want to do, and yet they don't have one in this size category. WHY??? Why do they go from nine inches to 17 inches???? Just seems ridiculous that they have four different printers that are basically 9x9x10 and then one giant one that almost twice that, with nothing in between.
nice review and nice overall video quality/content. That edelkrone slider does make those shot look real pro! regarding the PEI coated sheet. Can you just place one over the glass and test it? I was looking at the wham bam PEI 410x410 sheet
Wham Bam offered to send me the 410x410 to test out. So I’ll likely have that soon to at least preliminary test. Watch out on TikTok, Instagram, & twitter about that.
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hmm, i have never had any problem with prints getting stuck to the bed. i loooove that bed
MandicReally, you are the second reviewer of the Kobra Max that had the bed break off on the underside of a printed object. Does the manufacturer state to clean the bed after every use? I've watched videos where residue buildup of oils and debris from previous builds could cause sticking. Did you by any chance clean the bed? I'm just curious if cleaning the bed after every use would mitigate that bed breaking off. This really gives me great pause on buying this thing after I've seen two reviewers experience this bed issue. Thanks for the review and I'm now subscribing!!!
The problem (in my opinion) is actually the opposite. Printing directly to the glass is over-adhering and causing these issues. I was using MagiGoo on the glass as a “interface layer” to promote adhesion but also help in print removal. When the glass broke I had NOT freshly applied the MagiGoo right before the print (as I usually did). I assumed there was enough residual on the bed and I was wrong.
Curious if you will try some of the community developed firmware. It’s out of my comfort zone at the moment but curious to see if that would improve this printer
There isn’t community firmware yet. That’s effectively what I was saying I set out to make. But until Anycubic releases the source code, it’s not happening. I’m going to likely swap out the board for one well support by firmwares and to add functionality I want. So likely won’t be testing anything further.
@@MandicReally there is a youtube creator by the name of @studiozombie that has created firmware for the Vyper but maybe the Vyper is different enough that it isn’t exactly compatible with the Kobra
The best review I've seen on the Kobra Max... CONGRATULATIONS !!! I'd like to ask you a question. I would like a printer to make non-structural motorcycle parts (such as covers, shells, flaps, navigator supports, etc.) that allows me (even after building a box) to print in abs as well. I was undecided between the Kobra Max and the QIDI X-Max, the Kobra max attracts me for the print volume but after seeing your review I'm even more undecided. I don't know if at this point it's better to have an Ender 5 PLus 350x350x400mm (building a box) or go directly to the QIDI X-Max, which however has a small print volume (300x250x300mm). I have a budget of 1000 € and I can only buy through amazon.
I am re-stating my original comment after much fiddling and tuning in Cura. Thank you for the free fan shroud design you made available for all the kobra people, it's a lovely thing to see people trying to support each other on their tedious journey to the perfect print. I have dialed in a near perfect profile for the Kobra Plus (Cura) that should work for the max as well, if you are still trying to sort out stringing and blobs. With the shroud mod of yours, an e3d steel nozzle x, pronterface calibrations, and an in-slicer z-offset below the built in .5 increment, I am getting really great tiny detail print results. I hope to make a consolidated video or post somewhere for all those just starting out with the max/plus, that should save weeks of headache. There isn't much out there for these machines so far. Thanks for your temp probe revelation, ive been printing at 180, to compensate and could probably even go lower. All the best, let me know (and anyone else who stumbles upon this) if you're at all interested in a custom cura profile.
@@Mitchwich. I don't want to put my email here, but let me know how I can send you some info. You're using Cura i assume? Also you should try doing multiple single layer z offset calibration tests, just print basic 2d squares with different 0.1mm incremental changes in Cura's z-offset plugin addition. Mines set at .2mm for perfect layers, but it was .1mm for a while and changed after i swapped nozzles. Seemed to remedy some weird bed level issues as well
sorry mitch, ill send you the profile as well, ive been working on some things and wanted to make sure everything is perfect before sending you anything. Septimus ill send it you as well! I actually talked to anycubic about how little resource their is for customers but all they offered me to help was "well pin the post on our reddit page".
They’ve really got to dial in their current offering. I doubt we will see a larger version anytime soon. That and Core-XY machines start to have really long belts as size goes up. That leads to belt stretch and slower speeds. I’m sure we will see a bigger one, but I don’t know when.
Hello, please help me. I am very confused. Which of these printers is more suitable and healthy? Which one would you recommend me to buy? 🥺🙏🏻 Creality Cr 6 Max AnyCubic Kobra Max AnyCubic Chiron Elegoo Neptune 3 Max
Of those, my recommendation is the Neptune 3 Max. The Chiron is very out of date. The Kobra Max lacks direct drive and suffers for it. The CR6 Max is too expensive and lacks direct drive. Neptune 3 Max isn’t perfect but I think it is the best of that bunch. tinyurl.com/Neptune3Max (affiliate link)
My Anycubic Kobra Max doesn’t offer a good way - or any way, as far as I can tell - to change filament if it runs out during a print and resume it. In contrast, Creality and Elegoo make it easy. I dislike the Kobra Max’s glass bed that requires application of chemicals to prevent over-adhesion. Moreover, the bed’s thermal mass is so great that it takes a long time after printing before parts can be removed. Another drawback is noise from the motherboard fan and a hotend fan sounding as if the bushings are prematurely wearing out. Yet another drawback: replacing the hotend (after it irreparably clogged after baking filament) was needlessly cumbersome secondary to poor engineering. A deal-breaker is parts availability after the warranty expires. With better printers available for less, who would bother purchasing a Kobra Max?
Which Ender do you recommend? I was considering the 5 plus, but it to has glass plate. I was looking at a neo max awhile back. Looking as a first time owner in printing, but with excellent print quality. The prints on this max weren’t good
Initially I had blobs as well. I made some tweaks..a lot of tweaks and the blobs went away. I never had an issue with the printbed however I do know some people that had a chunk taken out as well
As someone who hasn't had a 3d printer and is doing research for the one I want to buy first, it seems completely baffling that when you set the temp to 200c that you really expect a temp 35-40 degrees lower than the setting you entered and actually have an issue with a printer that sets the temp to near exactly what you set it to.
What you are missing is a couple things, 1st Where I'm taking Temperature readings. The temp probe I used was just pushed up against the outside of the heater block while reading. That SHOULD be the coolest location of the entire heater block as the thermistor is not surrounded by metal or right next to the heater element. Meaning where the Filament is actually flowing the temperature is very likely significantly hotter than the readings I got. Even then, I set the machine to 200C and got 205C on the outside of that block. So INSIDE it is almost certainly 10-20C higher than that. So well beyond what I commanded. The Second factor is, other printers. I've run dozens upon dozens of printers, and this is the ONLY one to behave this way. Every other printer runs these materials within a narrow window of termperature. Generally from 212-225C. Meanwhile the Kobra Max was the single outlier down at 195-200C. Can this work just fine? Yes, if you tune the material to the machine. However it is indicative of a sensor that isn't reading accurately, or a control scheme that isn't.
Fantastic review. You hit the all my gripes, especially with Anycubic (I requested the firmware too, a couple months ago). I'm almost to the point where I'm going to replace the toolhead, main board, et al. If I have to do it again, I would but this.
I AM going to do that. I edited out a segment where I told folks to subscribe to see the project. 🤣 Planning to go Direct Drive, SKR3 Mainboard, and Klipper firmware. Oh and I MAY persue getting some ground flat, cast aluminum beds made. Time will tell. Have to look into the expense, and metal prices are outrageous these days.
I've had amazing results and prints of the Max... But not taking away the fact I have seen some issues out there, it's a shame as it has so much potential
For me this is THE BEST review on this printer, i follow several 3d printing channels, and in all of them they're praising this printer, but NOT reviewing it as complete as you do. I was considering buying this one because i want to print batches of multicolored objects, and your's is the only review that adresses that point. You saved me some money, because the troubles the Kobra Max has with the m600 Command are a deal breaker. Perhaps ill buy an Ender 5 Plus, or a CR-6 Max and retrofit them to my requirements. Thanks a lot!
What did you get? For me it was a tossup between this and Ender 5 plus. But the cons here are killing it for me.. those prints don’t look good and I don’t want to waste $30 on a spool to see major defects. Did you see the holes on the legs of gold elephant print?
Is the printer working out for you? I was choosing between this or Ender 5 plus, or even Ender neo max. I would like to have good quality, and his Ender 5 plus sample showed it
I downloaded your adapter for the air duct and it works perfectly I’m currently 70% into a 70-80 hour run a 200% crystal dragon. Thank you so so much my max has been down for a few weeks because I just couldn’t control the stringing I’m getting very little totally manageable stringing and I dropped the nozzle temp by ten degrees because you were right again and it was higher than what I set it at. I have my big printer back. 👍❤️ thanks again.
I was recently given a Creality CR6-Max. Same volume printer. It was given to me because the prior owners could not get it to print well. I removed the MicroSwiss hot end, returned it to stock and it prints great. As I watch this video, I see how much better built the CR6-Max is. Larger stronger fame, better support for the bed, etc. It even has a tool drawer. I am not a fan of the touch screen, but the CR6-Max has, with the Community Firmware, much more control of the printer. I have no knowledge of the stock firmware, it was already gone when I got it. I guess, overall, if you are needing a printer of this volume, I would look for a CR6-Max over the Anycubic Kobra Max. I say this to hopefully help someone in the market. The CR6-Max is far from perfect, but much better than this thing.
Is there an alternative up to 1.200,- which would lead to less problems with kinda the same good points? Im always finding posts which say this is the best one for large prints - I need to print costume parts but dont have too much time for tinkering with my printer a lot Would be nice if someone had recommedations, thanks a lot :D
Is anyone using a Double sided PEI flexible bed with magnetic base 400×400 I just order mine and its too small. I didn't measure the bed first, I just went off what the Anycubic Website, which says the bed size is 400x400. So I haven't used it yet. I'm so over prints getting destroyed while trying to remove them from the glass bed.
Start small. Just cause you have a big machine doesn’t meant you need to go big. Learn a bit with smaller prints so if you have failures it won’t be so costly. Learn and get comfortable then go bigger.
I hated the Chiron and it looks like this has a lot of the same issues... except better wiring apparently. The chiron I got had nothing but issues in wiring. Also, blobs and cooling/extrusion issues galore.
Hey thanks for the STL files, and yeah my vyper prints hot, but thankfully i dont need to get up to 240 to print abs, after some testing im finding 223 to be a sweet spot for this ABS i got which says to print between 210-230, so maybe its just a low temp abs, and also the hotend, the teflon tube (ptfe) doesnt make contact with the hot parts, it supposed to be in the cooled zone anyway but when printing with abs cooling isnt your friend so there could be possible heat creep if you crank up the temperatures. But at leaste on my Vyper the preheat abs option is set at 240 so i think its safe to use it up to that point if you can find and ABS that prints nicely there you should be fine, I did anyway. Id like to know how to just activate the middle fan to cool the hot end so you dont get heatcreep and not blow on the nozzel/part for even better ABS printing. By the way the source code is avialable, any idea what the "m10m105" error is after bed leveling? It doesnt seem to affect the level but seems like simply a forgotten space between 2 gcode commands? well m10 isnt a command, maybe they mand m110 or m100? hmm
Try not to rely to much on the language only (blobs blobs) without multiple assisting ways such as visual marks or cursors or more vocabulary as this is no convinient english challenge for people like me😔
A year and a half later? 1-15. Unless it is an AMAZING deal, the Kobra Max 2, Neptune 3 Max, and Neptune 4 Max are all superior machines in enough ways to never recommend the original Kobra Max. They all have their issues but the Kobra Max was a bit dated in some ways when it came out and the industry has moved on since then.
As much as this brand can be budget friendly... literally everything I've purchased from them has left me thinking; "wow, these people are troglodytes... why didn't I just get a proper unit?" But the savings, I will note, allow me to have a base unit that I can mod/upgrade later on down the road. While still limping my way to that end goal WITH the actual unit as it comes.
Anycubic has not yet released the source code of this printer breaching the GPL v3 open source license. This affects us as owners by limiting upgrades of our printers and having less 3rd party developers making new better parts. While they refuse the release of the source code i would not recommend this printer.
one thing you did not use the addesave see i have never had anything stick to my bed so you must be doin g something wrong and you can say you know what ur doing but you most not be you messed up the bed ROFL! and you bed needs to be cleaned after ever time you use it thats why ur stuff gets stuck WOW! your not to breite so take ur review and stop doing them until u know how to clean your printer
iv got the chiron with the same builplate and bed size 400x400x450 had nothing but issues withb it untill i ripped everything out electronicsd wise and reporgrammed it and use another 32 bit controller now its absolutley mint prints are fantastic alot better than the stock one
I've got to say it seems like a really good machine but I've had nothing but problems with it. The power supplies they make for it are faulty and can sometimes electrify the frame at the voltage from the outlet. It isn't that dangerous, but it ruins the electronics of the printer after a while. I found this out the hard way with them sending me replacement components that would also fail. Eventually they sent me a new power supply but that power supply had the same issue... :/
One more and I'll shut up! The Ender 5 Plus can have a Z offset issue if the bed is too low when you start. Creality had a solution on their site that said to start a print and then use the screen to raise the bed. Sometimes you have to start and stop the print several times before the printer starts extruding before you get the printer bead high enough to set the z.
the temp issue doesnt get much better when you swap a ceramic PTC heater on it. i put the trianglelabs CHC Pro, it heats up wicked fast but still cooks filament. firmware woes are correct, it kinda sucks and the wonky MCU means mainline marlin and klipper don't support it. the filament runout sensor is bunk it routinely false triggers. hotend wise I replaced the heatbreak with a bimetallic one from Brozzl, cost me like £20, well worth it, and of course the CHC Pro mentioned earlier. I've got a Volcano CHT from bondtech on order as well. I've got a flex plate in my basket but not sure whether to click buy, as you said, teeny tiny 2mm aluminium PCB, the glass is adding a tonne of rigidity and flex resistance that I don't think a PEI spring steel sheet will be able to always overcome.
I’m thinking I’m going to persue a bed upgrade for the machine. Need to see if I can work with some folks on maybe a proper MIC-6 ground bed for the machine. We will see. Thankfully my filament sensor has been flawless, but that type usually are garbage. I’ve been amazed it’s held up.
@@JeromeDemers it wouldn’t be something I’d advise. It would work, but insulate the bed surface from achieving proper temps. Still maybe be worth testing. The wham bam plate may be hard though since it’s actually smaller than the full bed dimensions.
@@Mobile_Dom but you know just like me that any binder clips can replace the original clips so that is not an issue. I just saw my friend use PEI sheet over the aluminum bed on his Chiron.
I've never seen a stock machine with linear advance enabled, let alone a k value set. The only one that state they have linear advance is sovol, but if look a bit closer on their machine you will see a creality v4.2.2 board. Virtually all creality boards run the drivers in standalone mode, meaning all functions besides being quieter are disabled (no sensorless homing, no stepper current via firmware and no linear advance) I dont blame anycubic for not enabling linear advance since non of the other do it, but it would be a big selling point, especially on such a big bowden machine. The m600 (pause gcode) is also disabled on most machine (creality again for example). The real disappointment is the processor, this machine would greatly profit from klipper (pressure advance, input shaper)
It has officially been over 3 months since Anycubic told me they’d release the source code for their use of Marlin Firmware on the Kobra Max, “in 2-3 months”. They still have not released it. When I contacted them to ask about the timeline passing, they told me "Release time of open source is uncertain but in the plan." And told me to check their Facebook page for official announcements...
Thank you I've been waiting for this, will help me make my decision to get the cr-10s pro v2 instead over the kobra plus lol
I really like my Kobra Max but their attempts to keep everything proprietary are truly the main reason I cannot recommend these printers to anyone else. While I have the patience and resolve to deal with their service department, most people don’t. I’m not sure how they plan to grow the brand reputation with the attitude that their machines are just fine as they are, but it seems to be a very problematic approach.
Thank you for sharing this, we are really hoping for Anycubic to release the source code!
They haven't released their source code, but I did end up getting the kobra max and the pause at height works perfectly now!
When you printed with supports did you have any issues mine fuses the supports to the printed part and ive tried everything to fix it😅
Just get a cr10s5 if you need this build volume. Its got some problems but its bigger and all the problems can be fixed with a bl touch and printed parts.
I have a Kobra Max and plan to get a second one soon. It is my work horse. I print life-size anime characters on it and the machine runs virtually non-stop. I have to buy 5kg spools of filament to make these beasts. I know it has issues, but I love it. It was an upgrade from my Chiron.
Well then maybe you’ll love the new Kobra 2 Max they just announced. Looks like it fixes a few of my complaints with the original but I don’t have one to say. tinyurl.com/Kobra2Launch (affiliate link)
As someone who bought an anycubic mega x without much context I really appreciate your description on their marlin forks. Trying to pause prints at particular heights was also the catalyst. For a beginner it's really confusing to hear a machine is running Marlin and then have marlin gcode not work.
Thanks!
The weirdest thing for me is I kept having prints fail on the z-axis with no issues with the motors. Support made me ground the power supply to the frame and voila it printed fine. WTF!? But I had no stringing or build plate issues. All of my tuning went into temp and speed. I had to change the e-steps to handle the layer lines.
thanks for the honest review.
a problem ive been having is that it comes out of the nozzle a few seconds late into the print, and then it just curls out of the nozzle making a huge blob on the nozzle. any tips?
I'm very new to this like 2 months of experience don't know much any tips with this printer would be appreciated
I'm sure it's been mentioned already but they offer a metal, magnetic sheet for the max.
They do now. I haven’t seen anyone get one yet. I went to order one but it was sold out at the time.
yes, I would love a video explaining everything about printing with a .6 or higher nozzle.
1 mm nozzle please, thanks!
What an excellent review. Thank you for your candor on the pros and cons. I have a Kobra Max and have encountered all the print issues you've shown. I'm still struggling to get good prints with larger nozzles. Thanks for the fan shroud modification and the information on printing temperature deltas over other printers. Your camera work is beautiful! And of course love the mega trash can!
I dont see why you and other have such a big issue my question for you is did you did a auto pid tune a estep tune. I was getting blobs but there is code when using protonface that you can go in turn off that fix my blob issue
I have been tweaking and tuning my max for over a month. I found stringing to be awful out of the box. Initial though was to fine tune the retraction. While it helped, it was never enough. I accidentally found out it was running way hot one day by leaving my cura setting at 190 when the filament called for 230. It turned out beautiful... It was then I realized, holy cow this things runs waaaay hot. So it's very nice to see you acknowledge this. Thanks for the great review. I will be following your videos.
2 months after this review went up, AnyCubic has released the firmware source code: github.com/ANYCUBIC-3D/Kobra_Max
After digging through the config file, I can confirm that Linear Advance was NOT enabled.
Have you run any tests after enabling it to see if your print quality improved?
Can it still be enabled?
dude your videos are underrated. i scrolled down after watching and expecting ALOT more views. Your transparency disclosure, attention to details and just overall video is great. some of the best videos on 3D printing i have seen.
I've had my Max for a month now and I'm printing full sized mandalorian armor pieces with .6 and .8 nozzles in pla. My speed is capped at 80mm/sec for all speed settings. My prints come out FANTASTIC!!!!! Once I'm done with my armor, I'm going to play around with increasing temp and speeds, but i don't want to jinx it right now. Ouf of the box, this is printing 14hr parts on my ender 3 in just over 9hrs. I love it!
I run 215c for PLA with .6 nozzle...and 235c PLA for .8 nozzle at same speeds. Smooth lines @.28 & .32layers.. No underextrusion
I level my bed once per nozzle change and print many parts without needing to level again.
My ender is now my 2nd printer if I'm doing multi part projects.
Are you in the fb group? Would love a .6 profile
Mine strings alot which cause the very base level to fail over and over any advice?
I've got the plus, and outside of some of the functions that I should be able to do, it prints unbelievably well. I did have a print stick too much, so I froze it with an air canister (once the bed cooled 😆) and it popped right off. But I almost always get smooth prints stock using cura. I hope you get this dialed in more because it's an amazing line.
Pleaseeee make a video about printing with larger nozzles. I got a Neptunr 3 Max, and tried to make the switch, and i just could not get the settings tuned well for the life of me
I have the chiron. I have never, never had to pry prints off the heat bed.
Just let it finish, then cool to room temperature and it literally pops off the bed.
I replaced the bed with a mirror I had cut to fit and Z offset at 0.15 it still sticks good with hairspray and I don’t need a hammer and chisel.
Getting my Kobra Max tomorrow. Excited to print full helmets without having to glue pieces together!
Thank you for your video, it really tells a true story about this machine. Fan ducts are also top notch.
Is there an option of you revealing your slicer settings, especially for larger nozzle sizes (0.6 and 0.8 mm)? I'm struggling a bit with my setup (both in Cura as in Prusaslicer) and am also experiencing a lot of stringing issues (retraction and temperature change deal with some of it but not all). Any advice on how to tackle the aforementioned problem?
I apologize, despite your thorough effort, we still want more :)
Has the "Open" firmware issues been resolved
Great review, very thorough! Thank you for fighting through the irritations to make this video happen, haha.
Thanks! It’s an uphill battle some days. Glad to have gotten the video out at least.
Great video bro. Been looking forward to this one. I’m pretty happy with mine so far and the filament runout has been a lifesaver.
great video but if you go over to 3DPUK he has a buddy that has come out with a firmware called zombie. IT does the 0.01 Z-axis increments adjustments. minor extra work and a bit of e-steps but well worth it. I'm just finishing up a planetary cellphone stand. worked awesome
What's the best large format printer you can buy today?
Depth of the review is excellent. I just purchased on of these for wargaming terrain. Keep up the great work! Subscribed and rang that bell.
Excellent review. And I agree on just about every point, especially regarding the firmware limitations and ANYCUBIC dragging their feet on the source code.
I had to flash the Community Edition on my Vyper just to get the functionality I needed. The Z-offset resolution was a huge point of pain for me in the beginning. Also, I run Octoprint on all my printers and the stock firmware on the Vyper/Kobra Max do not play well with it.
And the bed adhesion is a nightmare. I was relieved and also frustrated to see that I wasn’t the only one having that problem.
Really appreciate the amount of information you packed into this review. And as always, stellar camera work. Your use of a motion rig really adds a unique touch.
Just found out that octoprint does not run well on the max
@@daveglas1972The Vyper/Kobra series firmware doesn’t like Octoprint, no. Vyper has the Community Edition which runs with Octoprint very well, but nothing for the Kobra series yet.
I personally would love to see a video about printing with larger nozzles and layer heights. I've been running a .8mm nozz on my CR-6 MAX and have encountered gaps like on your elephant print.
Please let me know if you'd like to chat and share info for that video, I've been trying to make large nozzle printing more viable for the last few years. I have had some great successes and some less than ideal prints all because of a few slicing tweaks. I'd be more than happy to corroborate results with my similar machine. I almost got a Kobra but i'm kinda glad I held off, the CR-6 Max is pricier (and creality lmao) but I think it handled some of your issues a little better. One major mutual pain is connecting to the machine to make adjustments like esteps, I have that issue too.
Great video dude, killer ink too! Subcribed~
Wow, your video quality is just phenomenal, definitely goign to look at your equipment list and try to learn from everything you've done here...
What is the best 3D scanner to use for this machine
Extremely broad question. Folks are going to judge that differently. In my personal view, none of the sub-$1000 3D Scanners are worth using for anything beyond sculptures or things you truly do not care about dimensionality of. If you do care about that? The price jumps to $10,000+ with little in between. 3D Scanner tech is NOT caught up to 3D Printing tech as far as functionality, repeatability, and value (in a budget terms anyway).
I really enjoy watching your videos and the way you break down so much information for people that do not have your knowledge. I noticed on this video you had a huge Oscar the grouch that you had printed. Can I ask you where I might find that print file? or is it yours that you did? I would love to try it. Thanks so Much.
Hey how would you compare this to the elegoo max? Which one would you rather have? With the consideration of having to change out the hot end and heating block and thermal sensor? Would truly appreciate your thoughts.
Thank you so much on this video!!! I've been thinking about a newer 3D printer for printing cosplay! I love my CR10-S4 but sadly its showing its age and I've had more problems than solutions and I love printing armor in a full piece.
Great review! I feel like I'm very informed on this now. It's criminal videos of your quality and standard don't' have more views!
Thx for helping me decide NOT to buy this! Not cuz its bad printer but cuz of the good points u made of size and amounts of filament u gotta use! Im looking for my first 3d printer and will look for something smaller 😅
They need to get this updated to modern standard features, a better bed, high temp hot end etc… I’d rather update a smaller Ender
Speed needs light weight baby. Big moving mass = nono. This one especially without a chamber is NONO. This whole printer = NONO.
Fisher Price! Ordered one & Sent it straight back, It turned up used with a failed print left on the machine.. I Guess that's what you get for £500 so I purchased the Creality CR M4 instead.
i have the Kobra Plus and it's been doing weird things when i auto level. It pushes pretty hard on just the right side of the bed, especially the back side. I got a new sensor and went through the right-side gantry system and tightened it all. Maybe i need to do something to the bed...idk I'm stumped.
I bought my kobra max about a month ago and I was liking it until cura started crashing its very frustrating du u have any advice. It says that the object I'm trying to slice is open somewhere else. But it's not need help plz😢😢😢 I'm a beginner
THank you for your review. I liked it :) .,.. and ewoo. the red benchie.. sukcs. lol but over all .. this printer looks fun. but Im not sure i dont like the print ... its messy and just uck
This machine is hella dogwater tbh. Stepper issues, bed warp issues, z screw issues, all out of the box.
WAIT, I JUST Reviewed the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max, an even BIGGER and CHEAPER printer! Check it out in this video to see how it compares: ruclips.net/video/EbQuP2mBNFs/видео.html
Also Anycubic has a PEI bed for the Kobra Max now!: shrsl.com/41ozo
Anycubic Kobra Max: tinyurl.com/KobraMax
Elegoo Neptune 3 Max: tinyurl.com/Neptune3Max
(affiliate links)
The thing that I just don't understand about this line from Anycubic, is that the Kobra Max is too big, and the Viper is too small. So why don't they have anything inbetween??? A 300x300x400 or 12"x12"x16" is the perfect size for most of what I want to do, and yet they don't have one in this size category. WHY??? Why do they go from nine inches to 17 inches???? Just seems ridiculous that they have four different printers that are basically 9x9x10 and then one giant one that almost twice that, with nothing in between.
They do, it is called the Kobra Plus. It is a 300x300x350mm build volume.
So I didnt hear you can I couldn't use it but can epa-cf work on this printer boss man
The firmware was finally released last week.
Looking forward to what changes will come!
nice review and nice overall video quality/content. That edelkrone slider does make those shot look real pro!
regarding the PEI coated sheet. Can you just place one over the glass and test it? I was looking at the wham bam PEI 410x410 sheet
Wham Bam offered to send me the 410x410 to test out. So I’ll likely have that soon to at least preliminary test. Watch out on TikTok, Instagram, & twitter about that.
hmm, i have never had any problem with prints getting stuck to the bed. i loooove that bed
Hi there just seeing when can I get the file to make the Oscar the grouch
haha i set the temperature to 200 and it actually went to 200 WTF!😁
MandicReally, you are the second reviewer of the Kobra Max that had the bed break off on the underside of a printed object. Does the manufacturer state to clean the bed after every use? I've watched videos where residue buildup of oils and debris from previous builds could cause sticking. Did you by any chance clean the bed? I'm just curious if cleaning the bed after every use would mitigate that bed breaking off. This really gives me great pause on buying this thing after I've seen two reviewers experience this bed issue. Thanks for the review and I'm now subscribing!!!
The problem (in my opinion) is actually the opposite. Printing directly to the glass is over-adhering and causing these issues. I was using MagiGoo on the glass as a “interface layer” to promote adhesion but also help in print removal. When the glass broke I had NOT freshly applied the MagiGoo right before the print (as I usually did). I assumed there was enough residual on the bed and I was wrong.
Curious if you will try some of the community developed firmware. It’s out of my comfort zone at the moment but curious to see if that would improve this printer
There isn’t community firmware yet. That’s effectively what I was saying I set out to make. But until Anycubic releases the source code, it’s not happening.
I’m going to likely swap out the board for one well support by firmwares and to add functionality I want. So likely won’t be testing anything further.
@@MandicReally there is a youtube creator by the name of @studiozombie that has created firmware for the Vyper but maybe the Vyper is different enough that it isn’t exactly compatible with the Kobra
@@gerrbearmac it is different sadly. The Vyper board uses a different processor.
@@MandicReally ahhhh that makes sense. Thanks for the replies!
The best review I've seen on the Kobra Max... CONGRATULATIONS !!!
I'd like to ask you a question. I would like a printer to make non-structural motorcycle parts (such as covers, shells, flaps, navigator supports, etc.) that allows me (even after building a box) to print in abs as well.
I was undecided between the Kobra Max and the QIDI X-Max, the Kobra max attracts me for the print volume but after seeing your review I'm even more undecided.
I don't know if at this point it's better to have an Ender 5 PLus 350x350x400mm (building a box) or go directly to the QIDI X-Max, which however has a small print volume (300x250x300mm).
I have a budget of 1000 € and I can only buy through amazon.
Wow, I didn’t know you were that small…🙄
I am re-stating my original comment after much fiddling and tuning in Cura.
Thank you for the free fan shroud design you made available for all the kobra people, it's a lovely thing to see people trying to support each other on their tedious journey to the perfect print. I have dialed in a near perfect profile for the Kobra Plus (Cura) that should work for the max as well, if you are still trying to sort out stringing and blobs. With the shroud mod of yours, an e3d steel nozzle x, pronterface calibrations, and an in-slicer z-offset below the built in .5 increment, I am getting really great tiny detail print results. I hope to make a consolidated video or post somewhere for all those just starting out with the max/plus, that should save weeks of headache. There isn't much out there for these machines so far. Thanks for your temp probe revelation, ive been printing at 180, to compensate and could probably even go lower. All the best, let me know (and anyone else who stumbles upon this) if you're at all interested in a custom cura profile.
@@Mitchwich. I don't want to put my email here, but let me know how I can send you some info. You're using Cura i assume? Also you should try doing multiple single layer z offset calibration tests, just print basic 2d squares with different 0.1mm incremental changes in Cura's z-offset plugin addition. Mines set at .2mm for perfect layers, but it was .1mm for a while and changed after i swapped nozzles. Seemed to remedy some weird bed level issues as well
@@Mitchwich. reddit, leave your username and ill message you.
@@Mitchwich. How did it go? If that profile was the fix for the stringing/blobbing printing at fast speeds, I might pull the trigger on this machine
Would you mind sending it to me as well? Same username on Reddit as RUclips, just all lowercase. Thanks!
sorry mitch, ill send you the profile as well, ive been working on some things and wanted to make sure everything is perfect before sending you anything. Septimus ill send it you as well! I actually talked to anycubic about how little resource their is for customers but all they offered me to help was "well pin the post on our reddit page".
This machine has been a disappointment to me
I'm wondering if Bambu Labs will make a large format printer now. Call it the X2
They’ve really got to dial in their current offering. I doubt we will see a larger version anytime soon. That and Core-XY machines start to have really long belts as size goes up. That leads to belt stretch and slower speeds. I’m sure we will see a bigger one, but I don’t know when.
Hello, please help me. I am very confused. Which of these printers is more suitable and healthy? Which one would you recommend me to buy? 🥺🙏🏻
Creality Cr 6 Max
AnyCubic Kobra Max
AnyCubic Chiron
Elegoo Neptune 3 Max
Of those, my recommendation is the Neptune 3 Max. The Chiron is very out of date. The Kobra Max lacks direct drive and suffers for it. The CR6 Max is too expensive and lacks direct drive. Neptune 3 Max isn’t perfect but I think it is the best of that bunch. tinyurl.com/Neptune3Max (affiliate link)
My Anycubic Kobra Max doesn’t offer a good way - or any way, as far as I can tell - to change filament if it runs out during a print and resume it. In contrast, Creality and Elegoo make it easy.
I dislike the Kobra Max’s glass bed that requires application of chemicals to prevent over-adhesion. Moreover, the bed’s thermal mass is so great that it takes a long time after printing before parts can be removed.
Another drawback is noise from the motherboard fan and a hotend fan sounding as if the bushings are prematurely wearing out.
Yet another drawback: replacing the hotend (after it irreparably clogged after baking filament) was needlessly cumbersome secondary to poor engineering.
A deal-breaker is parts availability after the warranty expires. With better printers available for less, who would bother purchasing a Kobra Max?
Which Ender do you recommend? I was considering the 5 plus, but it to has glass plate. I was looking at a neo max awhile back. Looking as a first time owner in printing, but with excellent print quality. The prints on this max weren’t good
Initially I had blobs as well. I made some tweaks..a lot of tweaks and the blobs went away. I never had an issue with the printbed however I do know some people that had a chunk taken out as well
Great video... I've had some amazing results as shown in my videos, but there is so many quirks with this machine
.. that is definitely a turn off..
It can be thoroughly frustrating. Thanks 🙏🏻
@@MandicReally totally... stay blessed 🤟
What The Cost Of This 3d Printer
As someone who hasn't had a 3d printer and is doing research for the one I want to buy first, it seems completely baffling that when you set the temp to 200c that you really expect a temp 35-40 degrees lower than the setting you entered and actually have an issue with a printer that sets the temp to near exactly what you set it to.
What you are missing is a couple things, 1st Where I'm taking Temperature readings. The temp probe I used was just pushed up against the outside of the heater block while reading. That SHOULD be the coolest location of the entire heater block as the thermistor is not surrounded by metal or right next to the heater element. Meaning where the Filament is actually flowing the temperature is very likely significantly hotter than the readings I got. Even then, I set the machine to 200C and got 205C on the outside of that block. So INSIDE it is almost certainly 10-20C higher than that. So well beyond what I commanded.
The Second factor is, other printers. I've run dozens upon dozens of printers, and this is the ONLY one to behave this way. Every other printer runs these materials within a narrow window of termperature. Generally from 212-225C. Meanwhile the Kobra Max was the single outlier down at 195-200C.
Can this work just fine? Yes, if you tune the material to the machine. However it is indicative of a sensor that isn't reading accurately, or a control scheme that isn't.
Can i print those air duckts in PLA?
I have the Anycubic Chiron I guess this is the rebranded version? Build volume is exactly the same.
Frame is pretty similar from what I've seen, but pretty much every other bit is different. Hotend, electronics, motor designs, etc.
Thank you for the video. I just got mine.
Best of luck with it and happy printing
Dislike video
Thanks for the engagement that will help more people see the content.
Fantastic review. You hit the all my gripes, especially with Anycubic (I requested the firmware too, a couple months ago). I'm almost to the point where I'm going to replace the toolhead, main board, et al. If I have to do it again, I would but this.
Typo :) I would NOT buy again. Need to proofread better :)
I AM going to do that. I edited out a segment where I told folks to subscribe to see the project. 🤣 Planning to go Direct Drive, SKR3 Mainboard, and Klipper firmware. Oh and I MAY persue getting some ground flat, cast aluminum beds made. Time will tell. Have to look into the expense, and metal prices are outrageous these days.
I've had amazing results and prints of the Max... But not taking away the fact I have seen some issues out there, it's a shame as it has so much potential
@@MandicReally I will definitely check out those videos should you do a series. 👍👍
@@MandicReally Are you looking into the possibility of ABS after appropriate mods? Really curious if this thing will stand up.
For me this is THE BEST review on this printer, i follow several 3d printing channels, and in all of them they're praising this printer, but NOT reviewing it as complete as you do. I was considering buying this one because i want to print batches of multicolored objects, and your's is the only review that adresses that point. You saved me some money, because the troubles the Kobra Max has with the m600 Command are a deal breaker. Perhaps ill buy an Ender 5 Plus, or a CR-6 Max and retrofit them to my requirements. Thanks a lot!
What did you get? For me it was a tossup between this and Ender 5 plus. But the cons here are killing it for me.. those prints don’t look good and I don’t want to waste $30 on a spool to see major defects. Did you see the holes on the legs of gold elephant print?
Better late than never, i got an ender 5 Plus, and i haven't assemblied yet!!, but it looked a better option for me.@@Roadsurfer2k11
I literally just confirmed my order on the printer 20 mins ago and im using it for many star wars cosplays do u ave any tips for me?
Is the printer working out for you? I was choosing between this or Ender 5 plus, or even Ender neo max. I would like to have good quality, and his Ender 5 plus sample showed it
And then there is the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max, which is even bigger than this one
Bigger and cheaper. I’ve got one waiting for me in the box right now. Look out for more on it soon. 👍🏻
@@MandicReally nice! I should’ve waited for the Max, but I got the Pro instead. It’s an awesome printer non the less
I downloaded your adapter for the air duct and it works perfectly I’m currently 70% into a 70-80 hour run a 200% crystal dragon.
Thank you so so much my max has been down for a few weeks because I just couldn’t control the stringing I’m getting very little totally manageable stringing and I dropped the nozzle temp by ten degrees because you were right again and it was higher than what I set it at.
I have my big printer back. 👍❤️ thanks again.
Excellent! Glad to hear I could help you out. Happy Printing!
I was recently given a Creality CR6-Max. Same volume printer. It was given to me because the prior owners could not get it to print well. I removed the MicroSwiss hot end, returned it to stock and it prints great. As I watch this video, I see how much better built the CR6-Max is. Larger stronger fame, better support for the bed, etc. It even has a tool drawer. I am not a fan of the touch screen, but the CR6-Max has, with the Community Firmware, much more control of the printer. I have no knowledge of the stock firmware, it was already gone when I got it.
I guess, overall, if you are needing a printer of this volume, I would look for a CR6-Max over the Anycubic Kobra Max. I say this to hopefully help someone in the market. The CR6-Max is far from perfect, but much better than this thing.
Is there an alternative up to 1.200,- which would lead to less problems with kinda the same good points?
Im always finding posts which say this is the best one for large prints - I need to print costume parts but dont have too much time for tinkering with my printer a lot
Would be nice if someone had recommedations, thanks a lot :D
which yall think is better neptune 3 max vs kobra 2 max??
Two different generations of machines that aren't directly comparable IMO. I'd wait to see what Elegoo's response is...
Is anyone using a Double sided PEI flexible bed with magnetic base 400×400 I just order mine and its too small. I didn't measure the bed first, I just went off what the Anycubic Website, which says the bed size is 400x400. So I haven't used it yet. I'm so over prints getting destroyed while trying to remove them from the glass bed.
I just bought one and this will be my first 3d printer, any tips?
Start small. Just cause you have a big machine doesn’t meant you need to go big. Learn a bit with smaller prints so if you have failures it won’t be so costly. Learn and get comfortable then go bigger.
I hated the Chiron and it looks like this has a lot of the same issues... except better wiring apparently. The chiron I got had nothing but issues in wiring. Also, blobs and cooling/extrusion issues galore.
Hey thanks for the STL files, and yeah my vyper prints hot, but thankfully i dont need to get up to 240 to print abs, after some testing im finding 223 to be a sweet spot for this ABS i got which says to print between 210-230, so maybe its just a low temp abs, and also the hotend, the teflon tube (ptfe) doesnt make contact with the hot parts, it supposed to be in the cooled zone anyway but when printing with abs cooling isnt your friend so there could be possible heat creep if you crank up the temperatures. But at leaste on my Vyper the preheat abs option is set at 240 so i think its safe to use it up to that point if you can find and ABS that prints nicely there you should be fine, I did anyway. Id like to know how to just activate the middle fan to cool the hot end so you dont get heatcreep and not blow on the nozzel/part for even better ABS printing. By the way the source code is avialable, any idea what the "m10m105" error is after bed leveling? It doesnt seem to affect the level but seems like simply a forgotten space between 2 gcode commands? well m10 isnt a command, maybe they mand m110 or m100? hmm
Try not to rely to much on the language only (blobs blobs) without multiple assisting ways such as visual marks or cursors or more vocabulary as this is no convinient english challenge for people like me😔
How much do you recommend buying it from scale 1 to 100 ?
A year and a half later? 1-15. Unless it is an AMAZING deal, the Kobra Max 2, Neptune 3 Max, and Neptune 4 Max are all superior machines in enough ways to never recommend the original Kobra Max. They all have their issues but the Kobra Max was a bit dated in some ways when it came out and the industry has moved on since then.
As much as this brand can be budget friendly... literally everything I've purchased from them has left me thinking; "wow, these people are troglodytes... why didn't I just get a proper unit?"
But the savings, I will note, allow me to have a base unit that I can mod/upgrade later on down the road. While still limping my way to that end goal WITH the actual unit as it comes.
Anycubic has not yet released the source code of this printer breaching the GPL v3 open source license. This affects us as owners by limiting upgrades of our printers and having less 3rd party developers making new better parts. While they refuse the release of the source code i would not recommend this printer.
Hello, I need a printer recommendation in the 400x400x400 or 500x500x500 format, but one that does not have printing problems.
one thing you did not use the addesave see i have never had anything stick to my bed so you must be doin g something wrong and you can say you know what ur doing but you most not be you messed up the bed ROFL! and you bed needs to be cleaned after ever time you use it thats why ur stuff gets stuck WOW! your not to breite so take ur review and stop doing them until u know how to clean your printer
iv got the chiron with the same builplate and bed size 400x400x450 had nothing but issues withb it untill i ripped everything out electronicsd wise and reporgrammed it and use another 32 bit controller now its absolutley mint prints are fantastic alot better than the stock one
Anyone know if this would be good for printing things big enough for a ball python to use? I specifically want to make custom hides
I see you flexing that carbon lol
Got to wet peoples apetites… I had another clip there earlier in the edit but once the X1C came in. 😅
I've got to say it seems like a really good machine but I've had nothing but problems with it. The power supplies they make for it are faulty and can sometimes electrify the frame at the voltage from the outlet. It isn't that dangerous, but it ruins the electronics of the printer after a while. I found this out the hard way with them sending me replacement components that would also fail. Eventually they sent me a new power supply but that power supply had the same issue... :/
What slicer do you use for this? I use cura on my vyper but haven't got cura to work for this max yet. Help lol
One more and I'll shut up! The Ender 5 Plus can have a Z offset issue if the bed is too low when you start. Creality had a solution on their site that said to start a print and then use the screen to raise the bed. Sometimes you have to start and stop the print several times before the printer starts extruding before you get the printer bead high enough to set the z.
the temp issue doesnt get much better when you swap a ceramic PTC heater on it. i put the trianglelabs CHC Pro, it heats up wicked fast but still cooks filament.
firmware woes are correct, it kinda sucks and the wonky MCU means mainline marlin and klipper don't support it. the filament runout sensor is bunk it routinely false triggers.
hotend wise I replaced the heatbreak with a bimetallic one from Brozzl, cost me like £20, well worth it, and of course the CHC Pro mentioned earlier. I've got a Volcano CHT from bondtech on order as well.
I've got a flex plate in my basket but not sure whether to click buy, as you said, teeny tiny 2mm aluminium PCB, the glass is adding a tonne of rigidity and flex resistance that I don't think a
PEI spring steel sheet will be able to always overcome.
I’m thinking I’m going to persue a bed upgrade for the machine. Need to see if I can work with some folks on maybe a proper MIC-6 ground bed for the machine. We will see.
Thankfully my filament sensor has been flawless, but that type usually are garbage. I’ve been amazed it’s held up.
can't you place that PEI sheet directly over the glass?
@@JeromeDemers it wouldn’t be something I’d advise. It would work, but insulate the bed surface from achieving proper temps. Still maybe be worth testing. The wham bam plate may be hard though since it’s actually smaller than the full bed dimensions.
@@JeromeDemers technically yes, but the clips barely clear the glass as it is, let alone with another 0.2mm of PEI
@@Mobile_Dom but you know just like me that any binder clips can replace the original clips so that is not an issue. I just saw my friend use PEI sheet over the aluminum bed on his Chiron.
thanks for this, I need massive helmets and half body armor for cosplay, this seems to fit the bill. I'll put a flex plate on it!
I've never seen a stock machine with linear advance enabled, let alone a k value set. The only one that state they have linear advance is sovol, but if look a bit closer on their machine you will see a creality v4.2.2 board. Virtually all creality boards run the drivers in standalone mode, meaning all functions besides being quieter are disabled (no sensorless homing, no stepper current via firmware and no linear advance)
I dont blame anycubic for not enabling linear advance since non of the other do it, but it would be a big selling point, especially on such a big bowden machine.
The m600 (pause gcode) is also disabled on most machine (creality again for example).
The real disappointment is the processor, this machine would greatly profit from klipper (pressure advance, input shaper)
Can you do a video about everything you’ve done to your ender 5 plus
I filmed a vlog when I modded it and never got back to finishing the video. I’ll see about it. 👌🏻
@@MandicReally is it a good choice for someone willing to take the time to tinker and change parts
Kobra max or neptun 3 max?
20:00 Outrageous! The code should be shipped WITH the product.
LOVE YOUR SHIRT. Absolutely the best!!!
So should you always set the print temperature 40°C or 20% lower?