This video is much better than the other giga unboxing and assembly videos, which only showed from a distance and nothing up close. Plus you have great personality without the grumbling of some other RUclipsrs 😂
Slice engineering makes a 2.4 mm gamma master nozzle that takes 1.75 mm filament, you don’t need 3mm. You could use your machining tools to make your own or drill others out as well. As for the proprietary nozzle length, you can simply put a copper screw as a spacer above a normal volcano length nozzle or even a V6. This is a lot of us in the high flow high-speed community do for extended melt zones.
i think an episode where you upgrade this using all the stuff you've learned on yours (while trying to stay reasonable on cost) would be a great blueprint for people that are looking to get into large format printing but may want to do better than stock.
Your smile when you took the dragon off the print bed was amazing, I love 3D printing and knew exactly how you were feeling! Your review and opinions on this printer were the best I've seen, your experience with large format printers shows. Can't wait to see your upgrades/next video on your large format printer. Keep up the great work!
Rigidity is easy to fix. Just string up some steel wire crossing between the corners. I've always wondered why core XY manufacturers didn't do that from factory.
@@fouzaialaa7962 The only challenge, is securing equal tension, as to not force the cube out of square. But after that, you have extreme rigidity for 3 dollars of hardware.
@@ZappyOh could you not tune it like a guitar string by sound? If the printer was already square to begin with all you would need to do is tighten it and then pluck the wire and match the frequencies for all sides with an app you can download on your phone for free for tuning? Would this not work?
I'm glad to see you give the machine a look. I agree, it's about the cheapest way that you're going to get into a machine this size. But it's also something that most hobbyists shouldn't be buying until they're absolutely positive that they need to produce parts in a single shot. It's kind of like a belt printer in that regard. It's also been kind of funny to see people post online that they're suddenly concerned about whether they have the space for the machine at home. xD
kinda, belt printer doesn't need a small room to produce long or repeatable prints. It's a niche, but you can setup a belt printer on a desk and just allocate room for it when you do want to print a 6' sword or something else needing the infinite z ability, or more common use case where it just prints one thing after another and you just put a box to collect the finished parts. This thing is purely for large objects, there is no other use case that justifies a printer this big with a single head. If it was an idex and you could do duplicate/mirror prints, there'd be some use cases, but even Elegoo promotional material shows multiple linked heads, so you'd be just setting up copies of the same model (then just get 4 printers and print your copies)
@@kazolar A belt printer does, however, require a completely different approch to producing prints. If you just grab a model and toss it on the belt printer, you'd quickly run into atypical issues that the mechanics cause. On the other hand, if you're into printing props or typically print really long parts, or need a hundred copies of something, then by all means, go for one. Which is why I say its similar to the orange storm in that niche sense. You should buy it when you know you need it. And not the other way around. It should not be your first printer. Heck, if all you do is print a bunch of unique small objects, it shouldnt be your second and third either. Even if the size per dollar technically makes sense. Tool heads are vastly better in most cases.
@@kazolar I think that last thing you said was a wonderful use case for this printer, with the linked heads, If there would have been space for the 3 turbine blades from the video he could have spaced 2-3 of them on the bed at once (giga supports 4 print heads im pretty sure). The Issue that I see is how how to space the prints for batch printing? Did Elegoo provide any details on how to setup the printer for its multiple heads and spacing for prints, is it dependent on each print fitting inside a vertical or horizontal perimeter box such that there is a maximum part size per head, can it be configured with 2-3-or 4 heads spaced evenly or at custom distances? This batch printing setup could have shortened his build time from 96hours X 3times ---> to just 96hours if the parts needed to be one piece and he needs multiple of the same piece. I am curious as to how long would it have taken to print the 4 piece version on say a p1p or a set of p1ps or equivalents...
@TheDarkrider551 4 linked heads is just dumb, if all that it can do. You might as well just get 4 smaller printers. If this thing could do independent control, then you got more utility.
@Mytagforhalo I have a belt printer. And I have 2 large format printers, my biggest large format is not 800mm big, it's 600x600, and it's way more rigid and a lot faster than this thing is, but since it also has 4 independent heads, it has a lot more utility. The belt printer is a novelty. My other large format is a 500 diameter delta, with 675 true build height, and outside of my idea to print a life size duplicate of one of my kids when he was a toddler, which my wife knixed, I have never printed anything remotely that big.
i think adding acrylic sheets, of maybe 4 to 6mm thick inside the frame on the sides and back could highly improve rigidity of the frame, since theres indeed very little crossbracing. and the acrylic sheet of your choice of colour could add something to the look of the printer!
To solve the problem of vibrations, you can place steel cables with tensioners in each corner in the shape of an "X", in the openings that the supports have, a cheap solution that in principle works well.
16:58 😁😆 That smile of GIANT prints is exactly why I jumped on the kickstarter ❤. I would in the kindest way possible BEG to see you lay out upgrades for the hotend 🙏🙏🙏. While it maybe 6months before I would even consider it, I have big plans and NO one better to lay out a step by step recommendation on upgrades. Thank you for the outstanding review.❤
I'd expect a CNC kitchen style volcano insert to pop up to allow standard volcano nozzles to be used. Which would immediately widen the spectrum of nozzles to pick from including CHT and hardened variants. Which would then help to increase the flow rates and technically allow for better speeds. I'm kind of surprised that they more or less made a super bambu lab style hot end. It's also a shame that they chose to use extrusions with slots only on the inside for beauty. External slots would have allowed for a steel panel enclosure to easily be bolted on, which would have been easy to ship with the machine and stiffen it up a fair bit. open extrusions also would allow for many more options for the community to modify.
@@Mytagforhalo An insert would be an awesome idea 💡! For the extrusion I think it might be an improvement to have a solid flat outside for rigidity… not sure but it most likely wasn’t an accident. That said I will be enclosing mine, but until they ship mine I will just be speculating on how, although ugly I have cost-free plywood available. If I can I may just brace the top of the printer off the wall so I can get consistency up and down the build volume. If that won’t do because of space, to make it more robust on top I may use c-clamp style attachments with threaded rods to take up any slack across the corners like the tiny triangle bracket do.
Me thinks that if you bolt to the frame some perspex/plexiglass sheets of 5-8mm thickness, plus one on the top, you get some sort of enclosure and enhance the rigidity a lot, and I mean... a lot.
As you were asking for feedback: - Great video, love it! - Yes, a modified / upgraded tool head would be highly appreciated. - Stability issues / vibration: As already mentioned in other comments, I would go for either additional struts or diagonal cables. And if the top stays still open, really huge prints could even be removed without dismantling the structural support. - Print idea: As TPU seemed to work fine, how about printing a nice flexible waste paper bin? And, of course, we _need_ so see a GIGA BENCHY! 😉😂
Maybe a follow up where you bolt up some plywood sheets as shear plates? I feel like for an extra $60, this would greatly improve the major issue of vibration.
My main thought on the printer is that Elegoo took a very small form factor approach to a large form factor printer. When you’re doing a printer that big but still trying to keep the filament compatibility to 1.75 mm then you’re going to be massively limiting the capabilities of the printer. Also, it’s funny that they decided to use such a massive nozzle yet I’m able to easily crank way more than that on my regular volcano hot end with just a CHT added.
I like the idea of a remix with two beds instead of four and not so high so it can be put on a shelf. 800w x 400d x 400h opens up lots of long and thin objects with strength in the long axis, while still racking onto deep shelving.
X-bracing on three sides and wall mounts connected to the top of the printer would greatly improve rigidity. Make the wall mounts long and quickly removable, as well as one of the X-braces, and you've reduced most of the negatives of the added bracing. I wish I knew about the early adopter fund me page!
I have this machine on order...yes, yes, yes start the extruder upgrades. Best unboxing video to date on this machine! Keep up the great work. (I purchased this machine for wind turbines also.)
Hey @bretline4633, I am in the same boat, ordered this printer for wind turbine :)..Currently printing on N4M and having some challenges with the AFG. Please let me know if you are planning to post any videos of your journey
@@SanjaySharma-ov1kf Ya, I can't wait to see the crazy shit that people will make with this monster. Wonder what a massive structural flower pot in PLA silk or chair will go for on Etsy?
Nice review! Looks like they need more bracing and definitely an upgraded extruder with a much larger nozzle. A few strange choices, but it's def impressive.
I find it interesting he opted to use the dead center of the printer for most of his prints rather than using the advertised feature of only utilizing one bed.
I would use 1.0 mm nozzle as default, lowering the speed and vibration, increasing the flow rate. At this scale it will be sufficient and possibly better print quality
That's an insane machine, would love to have the need, space, and money for one myself :) The levelling procedure was great. The combination of the metal plates with levelling screw cutouts and the software interface for both the bulk probing and individual point reprobing along with the readout giving you an idea of how far to turn each screw was amazing, though it would have been nice if it also converted the value to number of turns or something equivalent. Still really nice though. While I share your concerns about the rigidity of the frame towards the top, I don't believe that was the only issue with the turbine blade you printed. It's movement looked like the nozzle was dragging when moving past/over it, and thus pushing the blade. This is an issue with printing any tall and thin parts. Strictly it happens with sturdier prints too, but those prints are substantial enough that it is less likely to have an effect. This can often (but not always) be mitigated by using Z-hop, at the potential cost of increased stringing. Something I noted during assembly was that the toolplate had multiple Canbus ports on it, suggesting the possibility for a multiple toolhead printer. Either that or toolhead addons such as alternative z-probes or an accelerometer for resonance tuning. Resonance tuning for a printer such as this with its frame wobble at high z heights would be great, especially if it is possible to have the tuning be z-dependent (I am not sure if Klipper has this functionality, but I could see it becoming a thing). Overall the ease of use and setup, combined with its low price point make it seem like a reasonable choice for someone who needs a large format printer.
I'm waiting for my OSG to arrive in a couple months. So glad you have made a video on it. Please mod this machine to make it better! Like a better extruder, figuring out how to use IDEX for multicolor printing, enclose this beast and add a chamber heater.
I see a problem with the 4 "different" flex plates and the holes/creases beneath/between them. From my experience you have to recalibrate for every flexplate ( I do have one and it crashed right into the bed, when i didn't change the profile)
Honestly... I was really impressed with what elegoo has designed. It's sturdy looking and well designed overall and it would have been hard for me to do better for the price. If I had room I'd buy one. Also that giant effing dragon is probably exactly what I'd print most... I've got the files for the same one (and several others) that I bought...and honestly....worth. Also, upgrading to a nema36 is totally an easy thing for this design, and honestly you could probably go to 4 of them pretty easily and really have a solid and FAST machine.
would be interesting to se what it takes for this to become a more usable printer at that large size (like, can you relativly easily stiffen it up enough, and what would it take to give it a far more flow capability so you can print big, reasonable quality and faster. I assume increasing flow and nozzle size would help a lot since you don't need to move as fast to print a lot faster.
for the price point , that is a heck of a deal !!! the materials alone are worth it !! maybe brace it with steel wire to the base or add more extrusions to it to stiffen it up ,also maybe increase the contact area of the base to the floor and weigh it down. there is ways to combat that wobbling at the top , but i still cant get over the low price , its definitely a good base to modify and DIY if you want a large 3D printer they should ship the corner brackets separately for them not to get damaged
I don't have a large printer but I abaondoned 1kg spools LONG time ago. I have printed spool rollers that use roller scate bearings that allows the fillament spool to roll smoothly. I know of one manufacturer that has 25kg spools. I don't think my rollers will support that much but super easy to print out 4 smller rollers instead of two rollers for the 5kg spools.
Excellent review, and I had a lot of the same concerns. To me, it's largely a parts kit printer with a Huge frame. Seems as the future owner will be in upgrade mode right out of the box, which is rather disappointing, but it's a decent base with a relatively easy path to get this chonk into acceptable capability. A higher flowing hotend would be job one though, which to me appears to be a huge oversight from Elegoo. Nema 23's should have been standard equipment on that large of a frame size/mass ratio.
I have a project which needs to be done in single print preferrably, actually multiple such, and even Giga is too small for some of them. HVAC / Datacenter related stuff. Just doing the first project, probably a week or two of printing or so with the giga will save me multiple times what the printer did cost. Or put in other words, i would have made that DIY still, different materials, by hand, but Giga gives me better end result, while i have to spent fraction of the working time on it.
Would love to see an extruder upgrade for this printer to increase its speed and flow and maybe some ideas on how to enclose it for working with abs? If you get it working and dont want to return it do you think it might be worth drilling and installing acrylic plates directly into the printers frame and adding front doors to it to make it fully enclosed? It might ruin the aesthetics of the printer but I would sacrifice a pretty printer for a printer with enhanced capabilities any day at this price point... and heck the acrylic should help by adding some bracing for the whole printer. I'm waiting on my printer for printing large molds to work with composites I know ill likely need to work on the prints surface finish anyway to get the quality i want on my finished parts but that can be done with sanding and fillers, this printer is mainly a means to remove the disposable buck process and jump straight to the mold process from cad. It would take several days to weeks to make the molds by hand from a buck and then make parts, this will allow me to make large molds with relatively little effort and time investment where I can spend it on actually building the parts or designing and simulating them.
I want to see you print a 4ft model of the Raider Class Corvette from Star Wars. As for the top heavy vibration when doing large prints that's is an easy fix by building a top support frame you can anchor to a wall
15:24 with it having Klipper, wouldn't Input Shaping or Resonance Compensation help to reduce the ringing from the top-most vibrations? Or is layer-shifting the real concern here?
Looks like the hotend and extruder are the exact same that can be found on the Neptune 4 series. I think that with a proper nozzle you could go a high as 45mm3/s… Will still take a while to print a cube with large density but yeah, here comes the variable infill ;)
Thanks for this. I guess adding some diagonal bars to stiffen it up will help greatly, and of course, an accelerometer - I mean - it runs klipper, so it shouldn't be that hard :)
Very nice video! I don't understand why this frame doesn't have cross bracing, at least on the sides, back and top of the machine. Even just some steel cables under tension would work and wouldn't have added much to the cost. It's all parallel structure with all the rigidity coming from the corners, by how easy it was to square one of the brackets back this just isn't ideal. The missing reverse bowden tube is another thing I don't understand why they didn't include it, even if it just avoids one issue that leads to a failed print it would've paid itself back.
Pull some cross wires to stiffen the frame even more? There will probably be 3rd party nozzle extender spacers. So can use V6 and Volcano nozzles easily.
A machine this large almost demands pellets, otherwise the cost of material is exorbitant given the expected volume fit for this printer. This makes it less practical for smaller institutions and individuals, and perhaps is best for institutions in need of large, turn-key prototypes.
thing to print next would be cross beam supports to replace those corner brackets with, as well as a brick holders to keep a bunch of mass on the top, might seriously increase print speeds. Come to think about it, much larger corner brackets would work nicely
They might also be using 4 beds for the same reason the in development Voron Phoenix will, the heatup can be staggered across the bed heaters reducing overall total pull on the circuit. allowing it to be run on a typical home outlet.
@@filipefarias3076 yeah , the prusa XL follows the same doctrine , have multiple beds so that you only need to heat up the bed that you are going to use , that way You use way less energy for smaller prints
20:40 How much time and how much material would be saved if we printed the 3 blades of the wind turbine at the same time so that they were supported on each other, thereby saving the time and several kilos of material for printing the support stands. The resonance at the top would also be smaller. I would like to know whether the big, heavy 10-kilogram filament coil will not destroy any motor in the long run, which pulls it into the head.
one interesting thought that came to mind: a huge printer like this could be less negatively affected by lowering the acceleration rates (depending on the print) since it's likely doing much longer runs where it can really get up to speed. So you might be able to reduce the vibration issues by turning down acceleration without necessarily a huge hit to total print time
Just watched a 3d printing nerd's video about this same printer and omg what a load of nothing it was. a whuge waste of 20min it was. Love your videos, professional and informative. awesome content as always
i'm interested in seeing a 3mm filament and extruder conversion. not really thinking of buying or anything, but just you know, I would find that an interesting thing. the new extruder and doing the new extruder for this seems weird. is there some cht shenigans going on inside the nozzle?
Do you think a simple X cable setup on two sides of the printer would be enough to aid in reducing the print artifacts at higher levels? This seems like a relatively cost effective solution.
1.5k to 2k is certainly affordable, i guess, but the size isn't really "hobby size" it's more of a "look how big I can print in my garage" size. I'd much prefer the Magneto X, which although smaller, costs about the same, and can also print at 800mm/s.
"For 1.75mm filament, the nozzle has to be smaller", no, not really. 3dsolex, who owns the patent that Bondtech uses to produce their CHT nozzles, sells nozzles up to 2mm for 1.75mm filament. I have one ;)
The hot end looks a lot like the one on my Neptune 4 max except with a longer heat block and nozzle. For the max there's a printable bamboo lab adapter. Maybe that'll help.
i would like one about 2/3rd's size honestly. there are cases where a single large print is more useful then smaller prints in pieces, but i can't justify something quite that big that can only realtstically print thin parts
I feel that Elegoo will release a smaller versión , there is a reason is called the "orangestorm giga" ain't it ? , one could get a orangestorm medium or something lol
24:20 if it consumes 1500W at 120v(12.5A), the national electric code that says a circuit shouldn’t pull a maximum current more than 80% of the breakers rating, you will want to use that on a 20 amp or above circuit only. Or go 240V
It is likely that the Giga only draws close to its full amperage during heat up. A 15A circuit will be fine for this limited max current draw, but it can never hurt to go to a higher amperage outlet.
Klipper is perfectly capable of pressure advance and harmonic tuning and has been for years. That should be fairly easy to add on to this printer to assist the higher layers.
CHT style nozzles work upto 2mm but print speeds take a hit as your limited to 30-40mm³ in volume and a 1.8mm nozzle with a 2mm width at .5mm layer height is a 40mm/s in print speed as a peek but expect more like 35mm/s so a 0.8 at 1mm line width and a 0.4mm layer height is 0.4mm³ per so take max flow rate from a flow rate test of say a magnum+ HF at around 82mm³/s thats a max print speed of 205mm/s but of the stock hotend that very similar to a banbu labs I think more like 30~40mm³/s so a print speed of 75mm/s with a 1mm line width at 0.4mm layer height. anyways something like a Mosquito Magnum+ with 100w heater will eat nearly 1/2 a spool per hour. i wish they offered an option to buy without the hotend or a control board. Id swap-out all the electronics for quad nema 23 servos and a few mods for auto gantry leveling a beacon bed probe, Bondtech LGX ACE Mosquito Magnum+ with 100w heater and a c-pap style blower and hose for part cooling. an excel file for finding print speed based on max flow docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1OSG0JWISRBaG05w8NEB8iGynuIOcXtSj/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=100168116248992706501&rtpof=true&sd=true
Wow! It would be cool if you lived nearby to that mod to mine when it arrive! I Don´t have much clue how I would do that on my own, but I am hopefull I will find a way when mods begin to appear!
I saw this printer at the SWIFT show in Los Angeles, it was supposed to sell for $1200, but I see they have doubled the price. $2500 is a lot of money for a Ender 5 printer. It is a flying gantry, so that is a plus. And enclosure sides could be easily added.
I have been watching the giga unboxing videos and appreciate the breadth and depth of your material. I wonder if building a custom enclosure with plexiglass would add more rigidity as the printer works on taller objects?
UPDATE: Got my Giga and it is indeed a thing to behold ❤. I genuinely haven’t been this excited for 3D printing since I got my first printer many years ago. With so many awesome engineers and reviewer getting their hands on it early, so many issues were avoided ❤️. It is fun and with the open frame it is an open pallet for any and all kinds of modifications. The firmware was updated and it homes after the filament change is done so the issue seen here is fixed ❤.
I guess calibrating accel and decel along with flow and pressure advance isn't as common as I thought, that orinter could be an absolute beast if used properly, and with the right hotend
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
This video is much better than the other giga unboxing and assembly videos, which only showed from a distance and nothing up close. Plus you have great personality without the grumbling of some other RUclipsrs 😂
Yeah this guy has great energy!
His at least works. 3d print nerds is a giant paper weight. He has like 5 videos trying to get it to work
You're probably the most competent person to review this printer, glad to see your thoughts.
Yeah I forgot what RUclipsr it was, but they got frustrated with it and gave up.
There is no probably about it. This is the ONLY competent and qualified person that has dealt with this printer so far.
You are probably the only person with an OrangeStorm Giga that has another printer large enough to store it in. LOL
"I got this new "small" printer from Elegoo..." lol
Slice engineering makes a 2.4 mm gamma master nozzle that takes 1.75 mm filament, you don’t need 3mm. You could use your machining tools to make your own or drill others out as well. As for the proprietary nozzle length, you can simply put a copper screw as a spacer above a normal volcano length nozzle or even a V6. This is a lot of us in the high flow high-speed community do for extended melt zones.
Appreciate the tips!
@@DrDFlo appreciate the video! It’s always a good day on a d flo upload.
Eff slice!
i think an episode where you upgrade this using all the stuff you've learned on yours (while trying to stay reasonable on cost) would be a great blueprint for people that are looking to get into large format printing but may want to do better than stock.
Your smile when you took the dragon off the print bed was amazing, I love 3D printing and knew exactly how you were feeling! Your review and opinions on this printer were the best I've seen, your experience with large format printers shows. Can't wait to see your upgrades/next video on your large format printer. Keep up the great work!
Rigidity is easy to fix.
Just string up some steel wire crossing between the corners.
I've always wondered why core XY manufacturers didn't do that from factory.
me too its literally a screw and a loop of steel wire
@@fouzaialaa7962 The only challenge, is securing equal tension, as to not force the cube out of square. But after that, you have extreme rigidity for 3 dollars of hardware.
@@ZappyOh could you not tune it like a guitar string by sound? If the printer was already square to begin with all you would need to do is tighten it and then pluck the wire and match the frequencies for all sides with an app you can download on your phone for free for tuning? Would this not work?
@@TheDarkrider551 Yes, that would work just fine.
I didn't say it was impossible, just that the tension needs some attention :)
I’m afraid of misalignment as well… As much as I would like to, I don’t think it is THAT SIMPLE.
finally!!! you are absolutely single one person who manage to reasonably review this printer on the WHOLE PLANET. thank you...
I'm glad to see you give the machine a look. I agree, it's about the cheapest way that you're going to get into a machine this size. But it's also something that most hobbyists shouldn't be buying until they're absolutely positive that they need to produce parts in a single shot. It's kind of like a belt printer in that regard.
It's also been kind of funny to see people post online that they're suddenly concerned about whether they have the space for the machine at home. xD
kinda, belt printer doesn't need a small room to produce long or repeatable prints. It's a niche, but you can setup a belt printer on a desk and just allocate room for it when you do want to print a 6' sword or something else needing the infinite z ability, or more common use case where it just prints one thing after another and you just put a box to collect the finished parts. This thing is purely for large objects, there is no other use case that justifies a printer this big with a single head. If it was an idex and you could do duplicate/mirror prints, there'd be some use cases, but even Elegoo promotional material shows multiple linked heads, so you'd be just setting up copies of the same model (then just get 4 printers and print your copies)
@@kazolar A belt printer does, however, require a completely different approch to producing prints. If you just grab a model and toss it on the belt printer, you'd quickly run into atypical issues that the mechanics cause.
On the other hand, if you're into printing props or typically print really long parts, or need a hundred copies of something, then by all means, go for one.
Which is why I say its similar to the orange storm in that niche sense. You should buy it when you know you need it. And not the other way around. It should not be your first printer.
Heck, if all you do is print a bunch of unique small objects, it shouldnt be your second and third either. Even if the size per dollar technically makes sense. Tool heads are vastly better in most cases.
@@kazolar I think that last thing you said was a wonderful use case for this printer, with the linked heads, If there would have been space for the 3 turbine blades from the video he could have spaced 2-3 of them on the bed at once (giga supports 4 print heads im pretty sure). The Issue that I see is how how to space the prints for batch printing? Did Elegoo provide any details on how to setup the printer for its multiple heads and spacing for prints, is it dependent on each print fitting inside a vertical or horizontal perimeter box such that there is a maximum part size per head, can it be configured with 2-3-or 4 heads spaced evenly or at custom distances? This batch printing setup could have shortened his build time from 96hours X 3times ---> to just 96hours if the parts needed to be one piece and he needs multiple of the same piece. I am curious as to how long would it have taken to print the 4 piece version on say a p1p or a set of p1ps or equivalents...
@TheDarkrider551 4 linked heads is just dumb, if all that it can do. You might as well just get 4 smaller printers. If this thing could do independent control, then you got more utility.
@Mytagforhalo I have a belt printer. And I have 2 large format printers, my biggest large format is not 800mm big, it's 600x600, and it's way more rigid and a lot faster than this thing is, but since it also has 4 independent heads, it has a lot more utility. The belt printer is a novelty. My other large format is a 500 diameter delta, with 675 true build height, and outside of my idea to print a life size duplicate of one of my kids when he was a toddler, which my wife knixed, I have never printed anything remotely that big.
This was such a fantastic video! Amazing job on this & can’t wait to see that huge wind device!
Side note, also seeing pretty large layer shifts anytime I run out or manually change the filament
i think adding acrylic sheets, of maybe 4 to 6mm thick inside the frame on the sides and back could highly improve rigidity of the frame, since theres indeed very little crossbracing. and the acrylic sheet of your choice of colour could add something to the look of the printer!
You could just strap some steel wire diagonally, to put the frame under some tension. This would increase the rigidity drastically.
That was my idea too. You could even add some cable tensioners for some really stiff triangles.
Or Reprap style: Threaded Bar on the Top and the Sides.
I was thinking he could secure it to something else like a wall.
I was thinking of plexiglass panels but the diagonal steel wire is a better and simpler idea.
I was also thinking plexiglass/some other clear plastic. Provides rigidity and also turns the frame into its own enclosure.
To solve the problem of vibrations, you can place steel cables with tensioners in each corner in the shape of an "X", in the openings that the supports have, a cheap solution that in principle works well.
problem is, you have to do that on all 4 sides. yes you can go with 2 opposing sides but that also solves only half of the problem ,-)
Ibjust would Put thick Woodpanels on three Sides, or extra Aluminium extrusions as braces.
I wonder if triangular gussets in each corner might help considerably while still offering good access.
16:58 😁😆 That smile of GIANT prints is exactly why I jumped on the kickstarter ❤.
I would in the kindest way possible BEG to see you lay out upgrades for the hotend 🙏🙏🙏. While it maybe 6months before I would even consider it, I have big plans and NO one better to lay out a step by step recommendation on upgrades.
Thank you for the outstanding review.❤
I'd expect a CNC kitchen style volcano insert to pop up to allow standard volcano nozzles to be used. Which would immediately widen the spectrum of nozzles to pick from including CHT and hardened variants. Which would then help to increase the flow rates and technically allow for better speeds.
I'm kind of surprised that they more or less made a super bambu lab style hot end. It's also a shame that they chose to use extrusions with slots only on the inside for beauty. External slots would have allowed for a steel panel enclosure to easily be bolted on, which would have been easy to ship with the machine and stiffen it up a fair bit. open extrusions also would allow for many more options for the community to modify.
@@Mytagforhalo An insert would be an awesome idea 💡!
For the extrusion I think it might be an improvement to have a solid flat outside for rigidity… not sure but it most likely wasn’t an accident.
That said I will be enclosing mine, but until they ship mine I will just be speculating on how, although ugly I have cost-free plywood available.
If I can I may just brace the top of the printer off the wall so I can get consistency up and down the build volume. If that won’t do because of space, to make it more robust on top I may use c-clamp style attachments with threaded rods to take up any slack across the corners like the tiny triangle bracket do.
I would highly appreciate an hot end upgrade as well! I bought it on kickstarter first batch and my intended use is to print with large nozzles!
Me thinks that if you bolt to the frame some perspex/plexiglass sheets of 5-8mm thickness, plus one on the top, you get some sort of enclosure and enhance the rigidity a lot, and I mean... a lot.
I would love to see this upgraded so it can print faster and more accurate.
Blink twice if your “strong wife” made you say that. 😂
As you were asking for feedback:
- Great video, love it!
- Yes, a modified / upgraded tool head would be highly appreciated.
- Stability issues / vibration: As already mentioned in other comments, I would go for either additional struts or diagonal cables. And if the top stays still open, really huge prints could even be removed without dismantling the structural support.
- Print idea: As TPU seemed to work fine, how about printing a nice flexible waste paper bin? And, of course, we _need_ so see a GIGA BENCHY! 😉😂
I can see A LOT of room for improvements for the crazy creative modders.
Yes, and all these improvements had to be made by the manufacturer for an additional $100.
Maybe a follow up where you bolt up some plywood sheets as shear plates? I feel like for an extra $60, this would greatly improve the major issue of vibration.
My main thought on the printer is that Elegoo took a very small form factor approach to a large form factor printer. When you’re doing a printer that big but still trying to keep the filament compatibility to 1.75 mm then you’re going to be massively limiting the capabilities of the printer. Also, it’s funny that they decided to use such a massive nozzle yet I’m able to easily crank way more than that on my regular volcano hot end with just a CHT added.
I like the idea of a remix with two beds instead of four and not so high so it can be put on a shelf. 800w x 400d x 400h opens up lots of long and thin objects with strength in the long axis, while still racking onto deep shelving.
Would you recommend creating a pellet extruder to allow for more volumetric flow and also possibly modifying the extruder to have a beacon?
X-bracing on three sides and wall mounts connected to the top of the printer would greatly improve rigidity. Make the wall mounts long and quickly removable, as well as one of the X-braces, and you've reduced most of the negatives of the added bracing. I wish I knew about the early adopter fund me page!
I have this machine on order...yes, yes, yes start the extruder upgrades. Best unboxing video to date on this machine! Keep up the great work. (I purchased this machine for wind turbines also.)
Hey @bretline4633, I am in the same boat, ordered this printer for wind turbine :)..Currently printing on N4M and having some challenges with the AFG. Please let me know if you are planning to post any videos of your journey
@@SanjaySharma-ov1kf Ya, I can't wait to see the crazy shit that people will make with this monster. Wonder what a massive structural flower pot in PLA silk or chair will go for on Etsy?
Mounting this thing to the wall seems like a good idea
Best review so far; concise and eloquent! 👌🖤
Nice review! Looks like they need more bracing and definitely an upgraded extruder with a much larger nozzle. A few strange choices, but it's def impressive.
I find it interesting he opted to use the dead center of the printer for most of his prints rather than using the advertised feature of only utilizing one bed.
You need a filament drier for that 10kg filament spool!!! lol
Yes! It was dry when I first loaded it up, but on a 3+ day print it needs to be sitting in a dry box during the print. Didn't have a large enough one.
@@DrDFloMaybe a huge food dehydrator.
Septree food dehydrator. $215 and large enough for a 10kg spool (or 20x 1kg spools). Gets up to 95c
I feel like those corner braces have some perfect holes for using some Wire Balustrade Kits to tighten up the shaking and add some diagonal rigidity.
I would use 1.0 mm nozzle as default, lowering the speed and vibration, increasing the flow rate. At this scale it will be sufficient and possibly better print quality
I'd definitely like to see videos about upgrading this printer, such as upgrading extruder tool head, bracing, sensors etc
That's an insane machine, would love to have the need, space, and money for one myself :)
The levelling procedure was great. The combination of the metal plates with levelling screw cutouts and the software interface for both the bulk probing and individual point reprobing along with the readout giving you an idea of how far to turn each screw was amazing, though it would have been nice if it also converted the value to number of turns or something equivalent. Still really nice though.
While I share your concerns about the rigidity of the frame towards the top, I don't believe that was the only issue with the turbine blade you printed. It's movement looked like the nozzle was dragging when moving past/over it, and thus pushing the blade. This is an issue with printing any tall and thin parts. Strictly it happens with sturdier prints too, but those prints are substantial enough that it is less likely to have an effect.
This can often (but not always) be mitigated by using Z-hop, at the potential cost of increased stringing.
Something I noted during assembly was that the toolplate had multiple Canbus ports on it, suggesting the possibility for a multiple toolhead printer. Either that or toolhead addons such as alternative z-probes or an accelerometer for resonance tuning. Resonance tuning for a printer such as this with its frame wobble at high z heights would be great, especially if it is possible to have the tuning be z-dependent (I am not sure if Klipper has this functionality, but I could see it becoming a thing).
Overall the ease of use and setup, combined with its low price point make it seem like a reasonable choice for someone who needs a large format printer.
Instead of vertical support columns, make them extending outward at a 20 deg angle. This will create a solid tripod design that can't flex.
I'm waiting for my OSG to arrive in a couple months. So glad you have made a video on it. Please mod this machine to make it better! Like a better extruder, figuring out how to use IDEX for multicolor printing, enclose this beast and add a chamber heater.
Is standing and kneeeling on the bed a good idea?
A good upgrade would be a Beacon Eddy Current Surface Scanner. Bed leveling would be a lot quicker. Hopefully you upgrade it to make it better.
Lol, keep watchin
I see a problem with the 4 "different" flex plates and the holes/creases beneath/between them. From my experience you have to recalibrate for every flexplate ( I do have one and it crashed right into the bed, when i didn't change the profile)
Honestly... I was really impressed with what elegoo has designed. It's sturdy looking and well designed overall and it would have been hard for me to do better for the price. If I had room I'd buy one.
Also that giant effing dragon is probably exactly what I'd print most... I've got the files for the same one (and several others) that I bought...and honestly....worth.
Also, upgrading to a nema36 is totally an easy thing for this design, and honestly you could probably go to 4 of them pretty easily and really have a solid and FAST machine.
This video is super helpful, you are a real champ for taking the time to put this together!
would be interesting to se what it takes for this to become a more usable printer at that large size (like, can you relativly easily stiffen it up enough, and what would it take to give it a far more flow capability so you can print big, reasonable quality and faster.
I assume increasing flow and nozzle size would help a lot since you don't need to move as fast to print a lot faster.
so, what im hearing is, bolt it to the wall, and swap a 1mm nozzle into it
For stability, you can print some brackets and screw the top-back side of the printer to the wall.
for the price point , that is a heck of a deal !!! the materials alone are worth it !!
maybe brace it with steel wire to the base or add more extrusions to it to stiffen it up ,also maybe increase the contact area of the base to the floor and weigh it down.
there is ways to combat that wobbling at the top , but i still cant get over the low price , its definitely a good base to modify and DIY if you want a large 3D printer
they should ship the corner brackets separately for them not to get damaged
I don't have a large printer but I abaondoned 1kg spools LONG time ago. I have printed spool rollers that use roller scate bearings that allows the fillament spool to roll smoothly. I know of one manufacturer that has 25kg spools. I don't think my rollers will support that much but super easy to print out 4 smller rollers instead of two rollers for the 5kg spools.
Excellent review, and I had a lot of the same concerns. To me, it's largely a parts kit printer with a Huge frame. Seems as the future owner will be in upgrade mode right out of the box, which is rather disappointing, but it's a decent base with a relatively easy path to get this chonk into acceptable capability. A higher flowing hotend would be job one though, which to me appears to be a huge oversight from Elegoo. Nema 23's should have been standard equipment on that large of a frame size/mass ratio.
I have a project which needs to be done in single print preferrably, actually multiple such, and even Giga is too small for some of them.
HVAC / Datacenter related stuff.
Just doing the first project, probably a week or two of printing or so with the giga will save me multiple times what the printer did cost.
Or put in other words, i would have made that DIY still, different materials, by hand, but Giga gives me better end result, while i have to spent fraction of the working time on it.
Would love to see an extruder upgrade for this printer to increase its speed and flow and maybe some ideas on how to enclose it for working with abs?
If you get it working and dont want to return it do you think it might be worth drilling and installing acrylic plates directly into the printers frame and adding front doors to it to make it fully enclosed? It might ruin the aesthetics of the printer but I would sacrifice a pretty printer for a printer with enhanced capabilities any day at this price point... and heck the acrylic should help by adding some bracing for the whole printer.
I'm waiting on my printer for printing large molds to work with composites I know ill likely need to work on the prints surface finish anyway to get the quality i want on my finished parts but that can be done with sanding and fillers, this printer is mainly a means to remove the disposable buck process and jump straight to the mold process from cad. It would take several days to weeks to make the molds by hand from a buck and then make parts, this will allow me to make large molds with relatively little effort and time investment where I can spend it on actually building the parts or designing and simulating them.
I want to see you print a 4ft model of the Raider Class Corvette from Star Wars. As for the top heavy vibration when doing large prints that's is an easy fix by building a top support frame you can anchor to a wall
15:24 with it having Klipper, wouldn't Input Shaping or Resonance Compensation help to reduce the ringing from the top-most vibrations? Or is layer-shifting the real concern here?
The resonance changes a lot in the z-travel. I don't if it is possible to take that in consideration in input shaping.
Looks like the hotend and extruder are the exact same that can be found on the Neptune 4 series. I think that with a proper nozzle you could go a high as 45mm3/s… Will still take a while to print a cube with large density but yeah, here comes the variable infill ;)
Thanks for this. I guess adding some diagonal bars to stiffen it up will help greatly, and of course, an accelerometer - I mean - it runs klipper, so it shouldn't be that hard :)
Very nice video!
I don't understand why this frame doesn't have cross bracing, at least on the sides, back and top of the machine. Even just some steel cables under tension would work and wouldn't have added much to the cost. It's all parallel structure with all the rigidity coming from the corners, by how easy it was to square one of the brackets back this just isn't ideal. The missing reverse bowden tube is another thing I don't understand why they didn't include it, even if it just avoids one issue that leads to a failed print it would've paid itself back.
Pull some cross wires to stiffen the frame even more? There will probably be 3rd party nozzle extender spacers. So can use V6 and Volcano nozzles easily.
A machine this large almost demands pellets, otherwise the cost of material is exorbitant given the expected volume fit for this printer. This makes it less practical for smaller institutions and individuals, and perhaps is best for institutions in need of large, turn-key prototypes.
You just need some diagonal cross frames to stabilize and tie the top to the bottom.
thing to print next would be cross beam supports to replace those corner brackets with, as well as a brick holders to keep a bunch of mass on the top, might seriously increase print speeds.
Come to think about it, much larger corner brackets would work nicely
corner braces similar to big rep one?
They might also be using 4 beds for the same reason the in development Voron Phoenix will, the heatup can be staggered across the bed heaters reducing overall total pull on the circuit. allowing it to be run on a typical home outlet.
It is also possible to heat only the print beds that are used in the specific ongoing print
@@filipefarias3076 yeah , the prusa XL follows the same doctrine , have multiple beds so that you only need to heat up the bed that you are going to use , that way You use way less energy for smaller prints
Thank you! Would love to see with upgraded extruder. Pellet extruder would be even better (workhorse or something larger but affordable)
Give this machine some crossing cables on the sides to make it rigid and a 1mm nozzle on a proper hotend, and it should be great!
It comes with a 1mm extra nozzle, nobody gave it a try yet though.
20:40 How much time and how much material would be saved if we printed the 3 blades of the wind turbine at the same time so that they were supported on each other, thereby saving the time and several kilos of material for printing the support stands. The resonance at the top would also be smaller.
I would like to know whether the big, heavy 10-kilogram filament coil will not destroy any motor in the long run, which pulls it into the head.
one interesting thought that came to mind: a huge printer like this could be less negatively affected by lowering the acceleration rates (depending on the print) since it's likely doing much longer runs where it can really get up to speed. So you might be able to reduce the vibration issues by turning down acceleration without necessarily a huge hit to total print time
Just watched a 3d printing nerd's video about this same printer and omg what a load of nothing it was. a whuge waste of 20min it was. Love your videos, professional and informative. awesome content as always
Print some support struts for it and beef it up. Sell beef up kits.
i'm interested in seeing a 3mm filament and extruder conversion.
not really thinking of buying or anything, but just you know, I would find that an interesting thing.
the new extruder and doing the new extruder for this seems weird. is there some cht shenigans going on inside the nozzle?
Do you think a simple X cable setup on two sides of the printer would be enough to aid in reducing the print artifacts at higher levels? This seems like a relatively cost effective solution.
Hurray! My favorite foreign blogger! Excellent honest review from a technical point of view!🎉❤
1.5k to 2k is certainly affordable, i guess, but the size isn't really "hobby size" it's more of a "look how big I can print in my garage" size.
I'd much prefer the Magneto X, which although smaller, costs about the same, and can also print at 800mm/s.
"For 1.75mm filament, the nozzle has to be smaller", no, not really. 3dsolex, who owns the patent that Bondtech uses to produce their CHT nozzles, sells nozzles up to 2mm for 1.75mm filament. I have one ;)
The hot end looks a lot like the one on my Neptune 4 max except with a longer heat block and nozzle. For the max there's a printable bamboo lab adapter. Maybe that'll help.
Which stl is that dragon. Looking for a cool dragon like that.
I was wondering the same thing. A bit different that the one showed on Cults. I have that one
i would like one about 2/3rd's size honestly. there are cases where a single large print is more useful then smaller prints in pieces, but i can't justify something quite that big that can only realtstically print thin parts
I feel that Elegoo will release a smaller versión , there is a reason is called the "orangestorm giga" ain't it ? , one could get a orangestorm medium or something lol
You can add some X bracing or solid sheets of material to the outer sides of the printer, then crank up the speed without degradation!
Can't wait to see upgrade motors, extruder and maybe Klipper..
Please upgrade to a 2mm+ nozzle capable extruder that is compatible with composites 🙏.
Seems like the rigidity could be vastly improved with less than 100$ of aluminum (or carbon fiber tubes) and an hour of time.
24:20 if it consumes 1500W at 120v(12.5A), the national electric code that says a circuit shouldn’t pull a maximum current more than 80% of the breakers rating, you will want to use that on a 20 amp or above circuit only. Or go 240V
It is likely that the Giga only draws close to its full amperage during heat up. A 15A circuit will be fine for this limited max current draw, but it can never hurt to go to a higher amperage outlet.
3rd solution to the filament runout sensor have the sensor right above the extruder as it's direct drive and your can save so much filament with that
How long until someone adapts something like Afterburner / EVA with Rapido UHF on one of these? ;)
A extruder upgrade video would be nice.👍
Klipper is perfectly capable of pressure advance and harmonic tuning and has been for years. That should be fairly easy to add on to this printer to assist the higher layers.
So you unpacked it the living room, but then assembled in the garage.... i feel there is a story there :)
Do you think adding plexiglass to the sides could help with stability? is that a reasonable modification for the current frame?
you are the perfect person to review this printer and you nailed it, thanks :) please modify it and make more videos, that would be awesome!
You need a thermal stable room as well. With such long aluminum extrusions the thermal expansion must be noticeable in a multi day print.
I feel like you could do some simple diagonal cable bracing to shore up the top end significantly and for relatively cheap.
Start the Giga Mods!
What the name of the music played when he started the probing time “11:54”on the printer
CHT style nozzles work upto 2mm but print speeds take a hit as your limited to 30-40mm³ in volume and a 1.8mm nozzle with a 2mm width at .5mm layer height is a 40mm/s in print speed as a peek but expect more like 35mm/s
so a 0.8 at 1mm line width and a 0.4mm layer height is 0.4mm³ per so take max flow rate from a flow rate test of say a magnum+ HF at around 82mm³/s thats a max print speed of 205mm/s but of the stock hotend that very similar to a banbu labs I think more like 30~40mm³/s so a print speed of 75mm/s with a 1mm line width at 0.4mm layer height.
anyways something like a Mosquito Magnum+ with 100w heater will eat nearly 1/2 a spool per hour.
i wish they offered an option to buy without the hotend or a control board.
Id swap-out all the electronics for quad nema 23 servos and a few mods for auto gantry leveling a beacon bed probe, Bondtech LGX ACE Mosquito Magnum+ with 100w heater and a c-pap style blower and hose for part cooling.
an excel file for finding print speed based on max flow
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1OSG0JWISRBaG05w8NEB8iGynuIOcXtSj/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=100168116248992706501&rtpof=true&sd=true
Wow! It would be cool if you lived nearby to that mod to mine when it arrive! I Don´t have much clue how I would do that on my own, but I am hopefull I will find a way when mods begin to appear!
I saw this printer at the SWIFT show in Los Angeles, it was supposed to sell for $1200, but I see they have doubled the price. $2500 is a lot of money for a Ender 5 printer. It is a flying gantry, so that is a plus. And enclosure sides could be easily added.
Is there a cavity in the frame extrusions suitable for filling with oily sand?
22:32 Did you stand on the printer table with your shoes on?
Great video... and I genuinely can't believe you got that thing to +/- 0.4mm. That's insane for a build plate that size.
Hey Dr. D-Flo, I was wondering about your thoughts on potentially having a pellet extruder modification of the orangestorm giga, any thoughts? Thanks!
I have been watching the giga unboxing videos and appreciate the breadth and depth of your material. I wonder if building a custom enclosure with plexiglass would add more rigidity as the printer works on taller objects?
UPDATE: Got my Giga and it is indeed a thing to behold ❤. I genuinely haven’t been this excited for 3D printing since I got my first printer many years ago.
With so many awesome engineers and reviewer getting their hands on it early, so many issues were avoided ❤️. It is fun and with the open frame it is an open pallet for any and all kinds of modifications.
The firmware was updated and it homes after the filament change is done so the issue seen here is fixed ❤.
I guess calibrating accel and decel along with flow and pressure advance isn't as common as I thought, that orinter could be an absolute beast if used properly, and with the right hotend
Would love to see you upgrade and mod this printer! Especially since it runs Klipper, it shouldn't be too hard.
Is there an easy way to mount this frame to corners of the rooms walls? That should be able to significantly reduce vibration issues!
How difficult would it be to swap out the extruder head for something else, like a pellet extruder?