The OrangeStorm is a proof that not everything works if you scale it up. There are parts of the machine that should be redesigned. The printbed is one of the problematic parts. Layer adhesion is not uniform enough. Might be due to heat differences and expansion. Just a little draft can be enough. The motors of the movement system are not strong or durable enough for the large movements.
Their Neptune 4 pro suffered from the EXACT SAME ISSUES. This isn't a "scaling up isn't good", this is "crap products and QA will make a horrible printer at EVERY size" thing.
not to mention at that size ridgitity becomes a really tricky beast. if you floor/surface isn't flat it'll show on the build plate as itll conform to the shape of the floor.
IMO its proof that scaling successfully can't be at a consumer hobby price point. All of those decisions were made to make the machine affordable but failed to recognize that the limitations added cost to failure points, and so not a viable experience. I'd image the lesson other brands will take away is that its not worth the damage to the brand to scale to this point at this price point. There are industrial grade machines at this size that work well, but cost 10x the price. There's a reason for that. I can only hope that these MFG find a middle ground where hobbyist can advance toward professional grade equipment without the massive financial leap that exists today. The right space IMO is where Joel suggests. Putting some more time and money to push it to the price and capabilities that make take the next step forward. Affordable, but certainly more expensive than the price point of the giga and less than the industrial grade machines.
Those belts look way too small to be accelerating and decelerating that size print head at any reasonable speed. They should have used lead screws or at least a 30mm steel core belt and some servos. Its just a extra large piece of chineseium as it ships.
My suggestion is to take this "opportunity" to install a pellet extruder on the Elegoo Storm. Because this printer really begs for a pellet extruder. Using filament material is way too expensive to be practical for large-scale objects. EDIT: a minimum nozzle diameter of 1 mm might compensate for the lack of mechanical precision and problematic layer adhesion.
I'm not sure if the gantry can support this, cause pellet extruders are in a different weight class than normal-sized hot ends. At least those that would suit a printer this size.
@@TheCreat - Experimentation will settle this. Greenboy3D has a pellet extruder that seems to work well without being too complex and heavy. When the printers increase in size, we have to expect lower speeds, cause the inertia of the gantry itself will limit printing speed.
It may not be a specific Giga problem, but on the other hand... it is. Support being way too slow is a Giga problem and part of the experience. The center should not be an issue for adhesion, if it is, it's a Giga issue. Good to showcase and super nice to see it being modded (which still is a thing and why I stopped buying cheaper printers). :) I did learn a ton doing that, but at a point, you also see the huge amount of waste it produces when needed straight from the factory.
Thats a "it was made in china" problem. Just think of how much fuel is being wasted sending parts of these to the reviewers who cant get them working out of the box. Looks like another pile of leftover last gen parts masquerading as a consumer machine.
Joel, PLEASE DO NOT let Elegoo off the hook with this. Their Neptune 4 Pro had all the same issues you have had, and after a YEAR, they couldn't fix their issues. This sounds a lot like letting Elegoo from repeatedly sending out half baked hardware, and partially completed software. At some point, we have to hold crappy manufacturers accountable. But it seems the only time people hold them accountable is if it catches fire (see Bambu A1). At what point do we tell people NOT to use Elegoo? How bad does your experience have to be to NOT recommend a COMPANY? Because I honestly thought the last Giga video would have been enough........
The Neptune 4 had issues? Since when? I have put 100's of hours into mine and never had any issues with the machine. Leveling is fine, extruder is fine. Flow, Retraction, Cooling. all fine
The OrangeStorm Giga was an audacious idea and kudos to Elegoo for trying something kinda crazy. I think it could have worked better if there was a single very flat bed that was designed not to flex when thermal cycled with a much larger nozzle and probably reverting to 3 mm filament - in other words, truly scaled up rather than scaling the overall dimensions but having the same low flow rate extruder and needing four heated beds. If I wanted to print four 300 mm x 300 mm objects, I'd use a 300 mm class printer.
At the end of the day, the Giga is still a consumer grade printer in a giant frame. I'm curious if a single, gigantic PEI sheet would help, assuming you could find one or have one made. Even with that, you have that one spot where the four plates join, still the possibility of movement after heating.
This is where I give Prusa a lot of credit. My 5 head XL was not perfect when I first got it last fall, but Prusa has made so many improvements, in the software and hard ware that it is now almost perfect.
Aw man! Im so sorry about the OrangeStorm not working out well for you and giving so much trouble. That vase turned out epic though! I was going to suggest putting the giant lamp on the wall near the orange storm to give that part of your shop a jumbo feel... Maybe itll still be possible once you turn it into the blue storm though? :D
That articulated arm is epic. Big high five hand? Live Air cam? Taco holder? Your patience with the Orange Storm is great. It is really frustrating. I am looking forward to the Blue Storm. Voron style?
Every time the word "weight" is used, he means torque. The weight of the 3D prints doesn't change but by holding them further from its center of mass, more torque is applied to his hand.
I printed that lamp arm when my printer was working, used it on my computer for a desk lamp and also printed a pink one for the partner as a bed lamp, sadly I think the pla dried out and cracked eventually and literally the only parts I have left are the lamp mount and shade now, all the other parts have broken or cracked. The main issue I ended up having was separation on the threaded parts of the arms due to the stresses under tension (also prob didn't reinforce the prints enough with extra wall thickness) (RIP giga, can't wait to see how you improve it)
Retro fitting the “printer” is such a cool idea. Not sure it’s a good idea but it could be. Try to make it into what it should have been or could be. Buy the best parts, hotend, buildplate/s, fans and nozzle. This could be pretty cool content. Live the videos Joel!
it's simple a wire with 2 leads. Buy the replacement part, disassemble the hotend until you see the thermistor screw, and then replace the Thermistor. Be careful not to screw the holding screw in too tight or you'll crush the wires. If you're nervous, watch some videos. If it's the heater cartridge, same deal just w/ the set screw instead.
@@miniknights .I have had to replace a thermistor once before. But the new ones are stuck inside. I cannot get it pushed out. The wires broke off right against the themistor. it is a bar as long as the heater cartridge. It is stuck inside.
@@MrGerhardGrobler if it's a bar as long as the heating block, that would be the heater cartridge, not the Thermistor. For that, find the small black hex screw on the heating block and unscrew it a little bit. That should free the cylinder. If it's a weirdly long Thermistor held in by a screw on the side, then you might need some tweezers. But I'm pretty sure you're talking about the heating cartridge.
I think the bed needs to be a single piece of cast aluminum and a 800mm square Keenovo silicone heater and single 800mm flex sheet. Yes it’ll cost half of what the machine costs but at this scale even a $3000 printer that’s reliable is a good deal.
The larger issue with a single heater that large, is the power draw when heating. You would have to vastly underrate the heating element in order to use this on a 15 amp circuit.
For your Articulated Arm, I would suggest 3d printing a giant lamp shade and light bulb, similar to to original but scaled up. The bulb can be translucent or while with an actual E25/E26 LED bulb or coiled up LED strips inside to light it up. At the tip, you can mount a camera. Lastly, you can make the giant bulb able to pop open to reveal hidden storage.
I'm excited to see the Bluestorm! Seems like it's currently an extra large printer with build quality of an Ender, needing all of these mods to make it actually consistent. I don't even think Enders are this inconsistent any more.This seems like it would be the perfect candidate for one of those Beacon Scanners after you rigid mount, rather than a 4,000 point bed mesh. Maybe a high flow Revo with a 1.4 Nozzle?
Moving beds on large printers are very problematic due to the starting and stopping of a large print. If you have a thick walled large item that has 15kg of plastic, that's 33lbs you are jerking back and forth. Large closed loop steppers would be a must.
This is a manufacturer issue. They simply dont care about ux. Bambulabs big difference was caring about ux. All these companies just consistently miss that.
I can only imagine that a one-piece bed will improve this thing massively. From what I've seen, it doesn't look like the design allows for thermal expansion of the bed pieces and I would not be surprised if they warp pretty badly once they're up to temperature.
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for a new hot end and extruder. Go all out, make it a tool changer, enclose it and add a chamber heater.
One of my personal favorite ways to make 'Vase Mode' prints stronger is using an 'Over-Extruded Vase Mode' that the RepRack creators suggest for some of their parts. Using a 0.6mm nozzle, set layer height to 0.4mm, and all line widths to 0.95mm. Just slow your speeds down to compensate for the increased amount of filament being pushed through. I'd imagine using a 0.8mm nozzle with a 0.5mm layer height and 1.2mm line width would be the best way to increase strength.
I've actually had great results using a 0.6mm nozzle using 1.2 extrusion width and 0.32 layer height. (Prusa MK4 with an ObXidian nozzle.) As long as your volumetric flow limit is set correctly, it should automatically compensate.
I called it about their machine. When you go to that scale it becomes like a CNC machine and standard hardware won't cut it. Main issues is backlash on the Z.
You should print and build an upscaled lego light saber for that lamp arm. I just finished designing a part that would replace the "lamp_holder.stl" and would interface with the Lego hand from the Lego light saber model files scaled up 400%. Of course it would involve you building a lego light saber at 400% scale, but who wouldn't want to work on THAT project?
The saddest part about all of this is Joe knowing his stepladder has steps on both sides and still climbing the steps facing the wall even though he could potentially fall because of the large prints blocking his view.
I vote for studio light diffuser attached to the end of the print - the umbrella looking thing to attach to it. This way it will both look and behave like a lamp. If not, than giant transparent umbrella, with spiderweb painted on and little 3d printed spider put inside of it. You can move it between the shots for giggles! I'm an arachnophobe, btw, and I think if you print the spider with bright color, it will be okay.
That's exactly how my first 3D printer died. I tried freeing it up with the heat on, ended up crossing the two heater core wires and frying the entire mobo.
#teambluestorm! I'm all about that idea! Look forward to seeing what you do. Sounds like you're going to have to get some custom fabrication going. These things looked like a giga-headache from the beginning. I really hope backers get a decent product in the end.
The Z offset not saving is an Elegoo problem, one that they, seemingly always have with their first firmware releases. As the Neptune 4's on release had the very same issue, which is something that stems from making your own version of Klipper instead of using a known, working, tried and true, version. I now have two Neptune 4 Max printers and absolutely love them, just don't love the Fluidd interface (will be changing that to Mainsail) nor the "elegoo version" of Klipper either (open Neptune eventually).
heated beds are always cooler around the edges, I bet the center of the build area has a cold spot that makes a cross where the beds meet. using 4 beds at once is probably not viable.
The OrangeStorm also suffers from a serious lack of torque and belt tension issues. I've built 1m^3 machines before. Outfit it with some ClearPath NEMA 23 Servo Steppers and 15mm belts will help, along with properly support bearings.
haven't you tried or looked for a FR4/G10 sheet of the size of the printing surface, I think it would be a way to avoid having those problems in the joints, and you would have a flatter surface, Greetings from Mexico !!!!!
One idea for the end is (and I may revisit with more) another printer? Like a small one that can make project themed miniatures for every stream, or a projector
I learned back over 10 years ago on my Replicator Dual that i still have and still works to lock the screws in place for the bed. On my current printer with "only" i have a 300mm squared sized print area and every printer in between I've put an extra nut on the bed screws to lock the bed screw in place. Since, never have i had a print failure due to bed shift. I also get the bed about 2-3mm from fully seated to make the bed as firm as possible while giving just enough space to adjust. I also printed (in ABS filament) center spacers shafts to go in-between the spring/screw to prevent the bed from carrying vibrations and shift the bed that way. This was before people started using solid mounts.. Funny thing, I've been to lazy to put that on my newest printer because it's a bed dropper.. but totally made sense on the bed slinger i had before
Can someone please explain to me why a _[checks notes]_ two-and-a-half *thousand* dollar printer doesn’t have crash detection? That seems like a big oversight for a machine that’s already got adhesion issues.
Put some 3D flowers in vase?😊 washers between wall mount and turning piece, maybe printed bearings? Thrust and ball both different places of course. End being giant 3D movable hand?
A light up Tardis hanging off the of that giant arm might be cool. You could even have a hole in the bottom of the Tardis so it works as a posable lamp. High-5!
Have you ever tried Primafix glue? I've only compared it against hairspray & glue-stick and it's insane how well it tacks the prints to the printbed at high temperature & it would be really interesting to see it compared to the nano coating etc
Dang, maybe I’ll wait for Bambu to make an XL printer. At least they’ve implemented some detection features to try to prevent problems from getting worse.
Great video and awesome looking articulated LED lamp mount. And thanks to the breakdown of the OrangeStorm, people now have plenty of time for the competion... 😜 (also looking forward to your BlueStorm)
I like the idea of a giant foam finger on the end of that, pointing at you, the viewer... OR one of those big bubble wide angle mirrors that they have in parking lots or the back of stores. One of those big big ball mirrors. Yeah. Maybe make it look like an eyeball. Or you could make a fake neon light (LEDs).
Change nozzle to bondtech cht vulcano 1.8mm (Maybe pellet extruder ) Put one big piece of aluminium on the bed (or screws under beds) Anything around to make it at least 70% enclosed maybe made from PP corrugated sheet (its like cardboard...but from plastic) Better extruder (you dont need printing speed with big nozzle....use something strong with maybe gear reduction At least 80w heating element for extruder
This is like a scaled up Tronxy X5SA, and they were a complete basket case of a machine, until I upgraded mine to a VzBoT3D-Vz-330. Chuck it in a dumpster (or make it into a dumpster), life is too short to waste on unfinished untested toy design junk, especially if the manufacturer doesn't even acknowledge you debugging the machine out of your natural kindness.
honestly at this point, putting an entirely different printhead on the giga might be a good solution ngl. also put the bed temp higher, its what helped me with sticking. and also clean the PEI sheets with just soapy water
I was feeling the same on the orange storm. It is a great project with some min9r fixable flaws. The hot end is an easy one and going to a single large plate bed with an edi current ABL would be perfect way around some of the limitations you have hit.
I wonder if by putting a small cube-shaped void in the center of the model, so that it wouldn't print within those 4 inter-corners of the build plate, if you could avoid having the same issue. Just a small enough void that it could then bridge over and continue the print upward and give you a small little cube mounting point that you could use to mount it either on a stand or the wall
forget the original hotend, grab an STD6. wires come out about 3 inches away from the build surface, if you get a blob that big you already fucked up 4 hours ago
I think the giga should have a full 800 mm^2 glass bed, just for flatness and to mitigate the gaps between build plates. I usually like springsteel PEI, but for a printer of this size, a glass bed would maintain level, and be way easier to handle.
Beacon must happen. Especially since you can scan the bed before each print (probably bed springs can stay) without waiting an eternity and use the automated z offset feature thats coming this month
From what ive seen The blob of death is a elegoo problem after all the problems with the + and max thats all you see on the forums. i never had problems cleaning the blob off a ender
I’ve used 3DLaq for adhesion. It’s quite expensive but it doesn’t take much at all and I find one coating can last a dozen or more print jobs. (Although maybe on the Giga with its serious adhesion issues you’d need to recoat at least the center before every print.) Worth trying, at temperature it sticks to PLA like … glue, I guess 😁 When it cools down, prints remove ok - they don’t just fall off, but with a flex bed, they can be pried off with fingers pretty easily.
The large screw/bolt needs printed horizontally, with a small section of the bottom of its length flattened for better printing. (Maybe even print the bolt with threads on each end horizontally with a separate bolt head on both ends.) I've never understood WHY print beds are adjustable: Shouldn't their entire surface be flat on the frame?
As a Neptune 4 Max owner I see this problem all the time .... the core issue is the expansion of the build plate as the plate heats up .... putting off your z offset ... you need to let the bed heat up for around an hour before setting z offset and / or printing ... for the build plate to settle and stop moving .... otherwise layer adhesion / collision WILL happen. That OrangeStorm will have the same problem at scale. Elegoo have not been able to solve this issue since they went big ... and I think that's because it is a limitation of the technology.
The OrangeStorm is a proof that not everything works if you scale it up. There are parts of the machine that should be redesigned. The printbed is one of the problematic parts. Layer adhesion is not uniform enough. Might be due to heat differences and expansion. Just a little draft can be enough. The motors of the movement system are not strong or durable enough for the large movements.
If you paying that much for a printer I don’t want to deal with adjustment knobs on build plate to level the bed.
Their Neptune 4 pro suffered from the EXACT SAME ISSUES. This isn't a "scaling up isn't good", this is "crap products and QA will make a horrible printer at EVERY size" thing.
not to mention at that size ridgitity becomes a really tricky beast. if you floor/surface isn't flat it'll show on the build plate as itll conform to the shape of the floor.
IMO its proof that scaling successfully can't be at a consumer hobby price point. All of those decisions were made to make the machine affordable but failed to recognize that the limitations added cost to failure points, and so not a viable experience. I'd image the lesson other brands will take away is that its not worth the damage to the brand to scale to this point at this price point. There are industrial grade machines at this size that work well, but cost 10x the price. There's a reason for that. I can only hope that these MFG find a middle ground where hobbyist can advance toward professional grade equipment without the massive financial leap that exists today. The right space IMO is where Joel suggests. Putting some more time and money to push it to the price and capabilities that make take the next step forward. Affordable, but certainly more expensive than the price point of the giga and less than the industrial grade machines.
Those belts look way too small to be accelerating and decelerating that size print head at any reasonable speed. They should have used lead screws or at least a 30mm steel core belt and some servos.
Its just a extra large piece of chineseium as it ships.
My suggestion is to take this "opportunity" to install a pellet extruder on the Elegoo Storm. Because this printer really begs for a pellet extruder. Using filament material is way too expensive to be practical for large-scale objects.
EDIT: a minimum nozzle diameter of 1 mm might compensate for the lack of mechanical precision and problematic layer adhesion.
i second the pellet experiment for the giant broken printer
I third it! 😃
I'm not sure if the gantry can support this, cause pellet extruders are in a different weight class than normal-sized hot ends. At least those that would suit a printer this size.
@@TheCreat - Experimentation will settle this. Greenboy3D has a pellet extruder that seems to work well without being too complex and heavy.
When the printers increase in size, we have to expect lower speeds, cause the inertia of the gantry itself will limit printing speed.
I would love to see the pellet extruder mounted!
Wish I had time and resources for such a project myself😅
title should have been "my Orangestorm is GIGA dead"
you did it bro :D
It may not be a specific Giga problem, but on the other hand... it is. Support being way too slow is a Giga problem and part of the experience. The center should not be an issue for adhesion, if it is, it's a Giga issue. Good to showcase and super nice to see it being modded (which still is a thing and why I stopped buying cheaper printers). :) I did learn a ton doing that, but at a point, you also see the huge amount of waste it produces when needed straight from the factory.
Thats a "it was made in china" problem. Just think of how much fuel is being wasted sending parts of these to the reviewers who cant get them working out of the box.
Looks like another pile of leftover last gen parts masquerading as a consumer machine.
Joel, PLEASE DO NOT let Elegoo off the hook with this.
Their Neptune 4 Pro had all the same issues you have had, and after a YEAR, they couldn't fix their issues.
This sounds a lot like letting Elegoo from repeatedly sending out half baked hardware, and partially completed software. At some point, we have to hold crappy manufacturers accountable. But it seems the only time people hold them accountable is if it catches fire (see Bambu A1).
At what point do we tell people NOT to use Elegoo? How bad does your experience have to be to NOT recommend a COMPANY? Because I honestly thought the last Giga video would have been enough........
Skill issue, been using their printers hassle free for over a year
@622.by.sunrise8 Ah, so both the previous poster and Joel are newbs who require special skills to make these particular 3D printers work, got it.
@@LongDono Yep, especially Joel
@@TheManufacturerrrrrrrrrrrrrr it's weird for someone who has no skills to say 'skill issue'
The Neptune 4 had issues? Since when? I have put 100's of hours into mine and never had any issues with the machine. Leveling is fine, extruder is fine. Flow, Retraction, Cooling. all fine
This is why I cancelled my OSG preorder after my initial excitement cooled off. I knew I wouldn’t have the energy to fight through these issues.
Calling it an "OrangeStorm" is tempting fate it becomes a "BrownStorm".
The OrangeStorm Giga was an audacious idea and kudos to Elegoo for trying something kinda crazy. I think it could have worked better if there was a single very flat bed that was designed not to flex when thermal cycled with a much larger nozzle and probably reverting to 3 mm filament - in other words, truly scaled up rather than scaling the overall dimensions but having the same low flow rate extruder and needing four heated beds. If I wanted to print four 300 mm x 300 mm objects, I'd use a 300 mm class printer.
So, I think you should make the arm into a giant “High Five" camera mount. Scan your hand and cut a hole in the middle for the camera. High five!
And add sensors so we can measure high fives given to it?
only if the hand can be moved up and down the final brace, so you can change the high five you're hitting when ya feel like it......
Yes!
At the end of the day, the Giga is still a consumer grade printer in a giant frame.
I'm curious if a single, gigantic PEI sheet would help, assuming you could find one or have one made.
Even with that, you have that one spot where the four plates join, still the possibility of movement after heating.
This is where I give Prusa a lot of credit. My 5 head XL was not perfect when I first got it last fall, but Prusa has made so many improvements, in the software and hard ware that it is now almost perfect.
Joel, Ivan Miranda is you guy. he has build several printers larger than the orange Giga....
@IvanMiranda is a legend, indeed.
Dr Flo has a large pellet extruder 3d printer
Aw man! Im so sorry about the OrangeStorm not working out well for you and giving so much trouble. That vase turned out epic though! I was going to suggest putting the giant lamp on the wall near the orange storm to give that part of your shop a jumbo feel... Maybe itll still be possible once you turn it into the blue storm though? :D
That articulated arm is epic. Big high five hand? Live Air cam? Taco holder?
Your patience with the Orange Storm is great. It is really frustrating. I am looking forward to the Blue Storm. Voron style?
Printer should have been named Elegoo LemonStorm Giga.
In my experience. When you scale up stuff by double, the problems goes up cube.
I would be so pissed if I bought that and that happened.
Every time the word "weight" is used, he means torque. The weight of the 3D prints doesn't change but by holding them further from its center of mass, more torque is applied to his hand.
I printed that lamp arm when my printer was working, used it on my computer for a desk lamp and also printed a pink one for the partner as a bed lamp, sadly I think the pla dried out and cracked eventually and literally the only parts I have left are the lamp mount and shade now, all the other parts have broken or cracked. The main issue I ended up having was separation on the threaded parts of the arms due to the stresses under tension (also prob didn't reinforce the prints enough with extra wall thickness) (RIP giga, can't wait to see how you improve it)
Gotta love seeing Elegoo reply to your last video on the giga saying that they wanted you to keep troubleshooting and now they’re suspiciously quiet.
Retro fitting the “printer” is such a cool idea. Not sure it’s a good idea but it could be. Try to make it into what it should have been or could be. Buy the best parts, hotend, buildplate/s, fans and nozzle. This could be pretty cool content. Live the videos Joel!
I feel your pain.
The blob of death claimed my Ender 3 V3 SE thermistor. Now to figure out how to fix that, I am a user, not a tinkerer.
it's simple a wire with 2 leads. Buy the replacement part, disassemble the hotend until you see the thermistor screw, and then replace the Thermistor. Be careful not to screw the holding screw in too tight or you'll crush the wires. If you're nervous, watch some videos. If it's the heater cartridge, same deal just w/ the set screw instead.
@@miniknights I BELIEVE IN YOU GERHARD GROBLER
@@miniknights .I have had to replace a thermistor once before. But the new ones are stuck inside. I cannot get it pushed out. The wires broke off right against the themistor. it is a bar as long as the heater cartridge. It is stuck inside.
@@MrGerhardGrobler if it's a bar as long as the heating block, that would be the heater cartridge, not the Thermistor. For that, find the small black hex screw on the heating block and unscrew it a little bit. That should free the cylinder.
If it's a weirdly long Thermistor held in by a screw on the side, then you might need some tweezers. But I'm pretty sure you're talking about the heating cartridge.
I had a blob of death on my QIDI X-Plus 3, but I caught it early enough before it got to the wires.
Great to see the giant bracket back and in use. I had such high hopes for the Giga. Thanks for testing so I didn't have to.
I love the Blue Storm idea! And I'll see what I can cook up for your giant lamp arm thing. It looks epic
Looking forward to seeing how you improve the bed!
I think the bed needs to be a single piece of cast aluminum and a 800mm square Keenovo silicone heater and single 800mm flex sheet. Yes it’ll cost half of what the machine costs but at this scale even a $3000 printer that’s reliable is a good deal.
The larger issue with a single heater that large, is the power draw when heating. You would have to vastly underrate the heating element in order to use this on a 15 amp circuit.
Not entirely sure I'm with you
Aluminium, absolutely. Single piece maybe but not necessarily. But definitely don't need a single Heater pad
@@BelviGER infact a single heater would be a terrible idea.
seems like we need whambamsystems to make a one piece bed plate
The downside is it would cost almost as much as the printer. Their magnetic plates are great, but my Rat Rig 500 was over $300.
For your Articulated Arm, I would suggest 3d printing a giant lamp shade and light bulb, similar to to original but scaled up. The bulb can be translucent or while with an actual E25/E26 LED bulb or coiled up LED strips inside to light it up. At the tip, you can mount a camera. Lastly, you can make the giant bulb able to pop open to reveal hidden storage.
I'm excited to see the Bluestorm! Seems like it's currently an extra large printer with build quality of an Ender, needing all of these mods to make it actually consistent. I don't even think Enders are this inconsistent any more.This seems like it would be the perfect candidate for one of those Beacon Scanners after you rigid mount, rather than a 4,000 point bed mesh. Maybe a high flow Revo with a 1.4 Nozzle?
Moving beds on large printers are very problematic due to the starting and stopping of a large print. If you have a thick walled large item that has 15kg of plastic, that's 33lbs you are jerking back and forth. Large closed loop steppers would be a must.
Fun seeing the guys behind the camera!
I like how Elegoo decided to not put a sensor for whenever something goes wrong, on a machine thats ment for print times of multiple days.
This is a manufacturer issue. They simply dont care about ux. Bambulabs big difference was caring about ux.
All these companies just consistently miss that.
I can only imagine that a one-piece bed will improve this thing massively. From what I've seen, it doesn't look like the design allows for thermal expansion of the bed pieces and I would not be surprised if they warp pretty badly once they're up to temperature.
A studio light might be handy on the arm.
Its so funny i printed that Manta the same day you posted your pick and I too used High Five Blue!! Lol i cant wait see Bluestorm Giggity giggity!😂😂
Elegoo needs to add some closed-loop steppers.
Def looking forward to content on upgrading the Giga!
Plenty of companies make large printers. elegoo just failed at it at this low price point.
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for a new hot end and extruder. Go all out, make it a tool changer, enclose it and add a chamber heater.
I agree, I want to see someone go “rightio, what does this thing need to be awesome, may it awesome and then make a video on what you did”
Here's to a high five blue giga. It will be a glorious machine.
One of my personal favorite ways to make 'Vase Mode' prints stronger is using an 'Over-Extruded Vase Mode' that the RepRack creators suggest for some of their parts. Using a 0.6mm nozzle, set layer height to 0.4mm, and all line widths to 0.95mm. Just slow your speeds down to compensate for the increased amount of filament being pushed through. I'd imagine using a 0.8mm nozzle with a 0.5mm layer height and 1.2mm line width would be the best way to increase strength.
I've actually had great results using a 0.6mm nozzle using 1.2 extrusion width and 0.32 layer height. (Prusa MK4 with an ObXidian nozzle.) As long as your volumetric flow limit is set correctly, it should automatically compensate.
I called it about their machine. When you go to that scale it becomes like a CNC machine and standard hardware won't cut it. Main issues is backlash on the Z.
Should print the wall-mounted support vertically so that the layers are not stacked in the same direction as the pulling force
You should print and build an upscaled lego light saber for that lamp arm.
I just finished designing a part that would replace the "lamp_holder.stl" and would interface with the Lego hand from the Lego light saber model files scaled up 400%. Of course it would involve you building a lego light saber at 400% scale, but who wouldn't want to work on THAT project?
THIS IS A GOOD IDEA
The saddest part about all of this is Joe knowing his stepladder has steps on both sides and still climbing the steps facing the wall even though he could potentially fall because of the large prints blocking his view.
I have some very specific ideas on how to make improvements in all the categories! :)
I vote for studio light diffuser attached to the end of the print - the umbrella looking thing to attach to it. This way it will both look and behave like a lamp.
If not, than giant transparent umbrella, with spiderweb painted on and little 3d printed spider put inside of it. You can move it between the shots for giggles!
I'm an arachnophobe, btw, and I think if you print the spider with bright color, it will be okay.
That's exactly how my first 3D printer died. I tried freeing it up with the heat on, ended up crossing the two heater core wires and frying the entire mobo.
#teambluestorm! I'm all about that idea! Look forward to seeing what you do. Sounds like you're going to have to get some custom fabrication going. These things looked like a giga-headache from the beginning. I really hope backers get a decent product in the end.
The Z offset not saving is an Elegoo problem, one that they, seemingly always have with their first firmware releases. As the Neptune 4's on release had the very same issue, which is something that stems from making your own version of Klipper instead of using a known, working, tried and true, version.
I now have two Neptune 4 Max printers and absolutely love them, just don't love the Fluidd interface (will be changing that to Mainsail) nor the "elegoo version" of Klipper either (open Neptune eventually).
Wow! This is the biggest version of my model so far! I'm curious to see what will be installed on the end.
I'd put a steel plate between the plastic and bolts holding it to the wall. Give those bolts more surface area to hold that thing up...
Love the extra large nuts and bolts! I am going to try printing those next on my XL.
YES!
Love the huge prints brother. A man after my own heart! 🤣 Sorry about the Giga, that sucks. I know if anybody can make it better it is you!💯
heated beds are always cooler around the edges, I bet the center of the build area has a cold spot that makes a cross where the beds meet. using 4 beds at once is probably not viable.
Just imagine all the naked statues you could print on that giant printer
The OrangeStorm also suffers from a serious lack of torque and belt tension issues. I've built 1m^3 machines before. Outfit it with some ClearPath NEMA 23 Servo Steppers and 15mm belts will help, along with properly support bearings.
Again I have to say, a pei bed cover sheet to cover all four bed sections may cure a lot of problems on this machine.
haven't you tried or looked for a FR4/G10 sheet of the size of the printing surface, I think it would be a way to avoid having those problems in the joints, and you would have a flatter surface, Greetings from Mexico !!!!!
Incredibly obvious what needs to be printed for the end ... A giant floating pcbway logo!
I really think the funniest possible thing is to put a regular sized lightbulb at the end of fhe 600% arm
One idea for the end is (and I may revisit with more) another printer? Like a small one that can make project themed miniatures for every stream, or a projector
I learned back over 10 years ago on my Replicator Dual that i still have and still works to lock the screws in place for the bed. On my current printer with "only" i have a 300mm squared sized print area and every printer in between I've put an extra nut on the bed screws to lock the bed screw in place. Since, never have i had a print failure due to bed shift. I also get the bed about 2-3mm from fully seated to make the bed as firm as possible while giving just enough space to adjust.
I also printed (in ABS filament) center spacers shafts to go in-between the spring/screw to prevent the bed from carrying vibrations and shift the bed that way. This was before people started using solid mounts.. Funny thing, I've been to lazy to put that on my newest printer because it's a bed dropper.. but totally made sense on the bed slinger i had before
Sorry about that experience, I felt it could have been better...
Can someone please explain to me why a _[checks notes]_ two-and-a-half *thousand* dollar printer doesn’t have crash detection? That seems like a big oversight for a machine that’s already got adhesion issues.
You forgot to remind me to fight for a cause I believe in and now I’m sad and lost and don’t know what to fight for!
Put some 3D flowers in vase?😊 washers between wall mount and turning piece, maybe printed bearings? Thrust and ball both different places of course. End being giant 3D movable hand?
with a printer this big. i would be tempted to somehow put a grinder on the printer and make it grind down the heatbed to perfect flatness.
What a giant dumpster fire. Blue Storm will need to be enclosed as well!
A light up Tardis hanging off the of that giant arm might be cool. You could even have a hole in the bottom of the Tardis so it works as a posable lamp. High-5!
LIGHT UP TARDIS YESSSSSS
Have you ever tried Primafix glue? I've only compared it against hairspray & glue-stick and it's insane how well it tacks the prints to the printbed at high temperature & it would be really interesting to see it compared to the nano coating etc
Haven’t watched the whole thing yet, but with any plastic welding done to strengthen everything, I have 0% confidence this project will succeed.
Time to print some flowers for the vase
Dang, maybe I’ll wait for Bambu to make an XL printer. At least they’ve implemented some detection features to try to prevent problems from getting worse.
Great video and awesome looking articulated LED lamp mount.
And thanks to the breakdown of the OrangeStorm, people now have plenty of time for the competion... 😜
(also looking forward to your BlueStorm)
I like the idea of a giant foam finger on the end of that, pointing at you, the viewer... OR one of those big bubble wide angle mirrors that they have in parking lots or the back of stores. One of those big big ball mirrors. Yeah. Maybe make it look like an eyeball. Or you could make a fake neon light (LEDs).
Change nozzle to bondtech cht vulcano 1.8mm
(Maybe pellet extruder )
Put one big piece of aluminium on the bed (or screws under beds)
Anything around to make it at least 70% enclosed maybe made from PP corrugated sheet (its like cardboard...but from plastic)
Better extruder (you dont need printing speed with big nozzle....use something strong with maybe gear reduction
At least 80w heating element for extruder
I had the same problems with my Neptune 4 plus. Eventually I convinced elegoo to just send me a new machine and that works great
This is like a scaled up Tronxy X5SA, and they were a complete basket case of a machine, until I upgraded mine to a VzBoT3D-Vz-330. Chuck it in a dumpster (or make it into a dumpster), life is too short to waste on unfinished untested toy design junk, especially if the manufacturer doesn't even acknowledge you debugging the machine out of your natural kindness.
I've actually printed 2 of those lamps, 100%
Blue Storm? No, No, Joel, you are making something more powerful than just a storm... A Blue Tempest.
Try getting a giant g10 sheet as a build plate that should fix the issue of bed adhesion and the gabs in the build plate
You need to reinforce the threaded parts with a steel bolt through them. These parts have such little shear tension they will break I promise.
honestly at this point, putting an entirely different printhead on the giga might be a good solution ngl. also put the bed temp higher, its what helped me with sticking. and also clean the PEI sheets with just soapy water
That is what I do to my new 3d printers. I always upgrade them better than factory specs.
I was feeling the same on the orange storm. It is a great project with some min9r fixable flaws. The hot end is an easy one and going to a single large plate bed with an edi current ABL would be perfect way around some of the limitations you have hit.
also add closed loop steppers to stop layers shifting
I wonder if by putting a small cube-shaped void in the center of the model, so that it wouldn't print within those 4 inter-corners of the build plate, if you could avoid having the same issue. Just a small enough void that it could then bridge over and continue the print upward and give you a small little cube mounting point that you could use to mount it either on a stand or the wall
forget the original hotend, grab an STD6. wires come out about 3 inches away from the build surface, if you get a blob that big you already fucked up 4 hours ago
That giant articulated arm needs to serve a really important function. Have it hold your cell phone. That would be a scream!
NOW WE ARE TALKING.
I think the giga should have a full 800 mm^2 glass bed, just for flatness and to mitigate the gaps between build plates. I usually like springsteel PEI, but for a printer of this size, a glass bed would maintain level, and be way easier to handle.
Been thinking about trying this when mine shows up.
Well that stinks. I hope others don't have too many issues
I hope so as well
If that orange storm doesn't have a Beacon probe, maybe it should?!
Beacon must happen. Especially since you can scan the bed before each print (probably bed springs can stay) without waiting an eternity and use the automated z offset feature thats coming this month
The perfect attachment for the arm? A life-sized Angus from Makers Muse's head. So you can worship the almighty hair
From what ive seen The blob of death is a elegoo problem after all the problems with the + and max thats all you see on the forums. i never had problems cleaning the blob off a ender
They have renamed the printers, it is now the Sh.tstorm Giga. What a phenomenal lemon.
I feel like they would be better off with one big base plate. Thank you for saving me 1500 bucks lol. Going to be building my own big format one.
I’ve used 3DLaq for adhesion. It’s quite expensive but it doesn’t take much at all and I find one coating can last a dozen or more print jobs. (Although maybe on the Giga with its serious adhesion issues you’d need to recoat at least the center before every print.) Worth trying, at temperature it sticks to PLA like … glue, I guess 😁 When it cools down, prints remove ok - they don’t just fall off, but with a flex bed, they can be pried off with fingers pretty easily.
The large screw/bolt needs printed horizontally, with a small section of the bottom of its length flattened for better printing. (Maybe even print the bolt with threads on each end horizontally with a separate bolt head on both ends.)
I've never understood WHY print beds are adjustable: Shouldn't their entire surface be flat on the frame?
It used to be the only way to level against the nozzle - but now with super accurate probes, seems like rigid mounting should be the default
As a Neptune 4 Max owner I see this problem all the time .... the core issue is the expansion of the build plate as the plate heats up .... putting off your z offset ... you need to let the bed heat up for around an hour before setting z offset and / or printing ... for the build plate to settle and stop moving .... otherwise layer adhesion / collision WILL happen. That OrangeStorm will have the same problem at scale. Elegoo have not been able to solve this issue since they went big ... and I think that's because it is a limitation of the technology.
I solved it with rigid mounts. I’m not kidding it’s working great.