Anycubic Kobra Max 3D Printer Review
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- Anycubic has sent some more printers for me to review! Starting with the new KOBRA MAX which is a large format printer with a bed volume of 400x400x450mm. Time to PRINT BIG!
Link: www.anycubic.c...
I have a Ender 3 Max with a 300x300 bed, that has a similar textured glass build plate, and I have found that because of the large surface area of the plate the surface temperature of the bed is 8=10 degrees lower than the metal base where the temperature sensor is. I find that bumping up the bed temperature is essential to get large prints to stick, particularly if there are large flat areas in contact, since I presume this increases the stress caused by the plastic shrinking. This often manifested as curling at the corners when printing boxes for instance.
I spray the bed with a thinned white glue/ isopropyl alcohol (50% mix 10:1 and it dries as the bed heats and is good to go by the time the print head starts moving. Aqua Net hairspray works wonders too. Set bed temp tp 70c.
@William Kelley Bed temp should be set at 70c. Use a glue stick or spray glue on the print bed for prints to stick better.
I got my Max 2 weeks ago and i've finally gotten my settings dialed in. I'm making cosplay armor and the semi-large prints of 9-12hours have turned out GREAT! I'm printing smaller pieces on my Ender 3 V1. There isn't anything i DON'T like about the Max, so far.
hi do you mind sharing your settings?
Thank you!
This printer is crying out for a larger nozzle😊
Nice! That build plate looks to be practically the same as on my Ender3 V2, and although I've never crashed the nozzle or removed prints with the metal scraper that came with it the adhesion degraded long ago. It just seemed to wear out. I did clean it with IPA one or twice before realising you shouldn't, so yeah maybe it was me. Glue stick on it works a charm though.
Cardboard recycling is actually the one thing we recycle well in the states. Almost 70% of all cardboard is recycled! Great review 👍
I have any Anycubic Chiron (previous gen to this) and one of the best things you can do is switch the nozzle to 0.6mm or 0.8mm. I eventually went to closed-loop steppers, if the head drags and it loses position it will trash a large print with a layer shift. I use to print parts for my various projects and for my FIRST robotics team. I was able to print a 248 Tooth 5mm profile HTD pulley this year for a shooter turret.
I wish Anycubic offered an upgrade kit for the older printer.
I always wonder why huge printers like this come with a .4mm nozzle when they should at least come with a .6mm, so you're not spending so much time on large prints. For what these machines cost they could at least include a selection of nozzle sizes.
closed-loop steppers, which type did you order? I'm interested in this upgrade
@@MindsMouth BigTreeTech S42B I have the 1.x but I'd get the S42C 1.x now.
When you start your print. Go to settings and increase speed by 140 percent. Not great way to solve issue but it works in a pinch.
The Technology Connections CED videos are epic. Nobody has done such a comprehensive/critical series of videos on CED before. I had a couple of those players in the 80's and early 2000's while in the grips of nostalgia. They were nothing but trouble; Laserdisc is a MUCH better technology.
Cardboard is 90% recycled, I was also surprised to find this out. It even makes sense to recycle it, that's even more crazy.
Good to know! There sure is a lot of it...
11:28 The newest PRUSA has that feature of zone bed heating (Original Prusa XL).
I was watching this video just because I just bought this machine and I am waiting for it to be delivered. Just to realize half way through that this is the legendary Ben Heck the guy I used to watch obssesifly when I was younger.
Zoned heating = bed warping.
Insulation under the bed reduces heating losses; quicker warm-up, makes bed heating more uniform, less warp over duration of print, less energy wasted, cooler room.
Uniform heating means the sensor is reading more betterlyfull.
I have an Anycubic MegaX (300x300x300) and this looks like a product improved version. I print most things rotated 90 degrees to reduce build plate movement. I've found the gantry can move much quicker than the bed and has less ringing from switching directions.
Also, the build plate is what they call 'Ultrabase' or something like that. I clean mine with 99% IPA every few prints (Just put it on a paper towel and wipe in stripes from back to front - don't scrub). At first it will have a yellowish substance come off. Haven't noticed any degradation though.
Since this has auto bed levelling you don't have to worry about nozzle crashes into the bed - but if it does it'll damage the bed. I had a complete idiot moment after moving my printer resulting in a permanent Benchy outline in the middle of the bed. Adhesion there is garbage now.
You're right about printing helmets and cosplay on these large printers - 300x300 is about all you need to print most. I have a Phase 1 Clone Trooper helmet going on mine right now. ~78 hour print, ~80% of a roll of filament.
Im lucky enough to have a plastic spatula outlet store near my
House. They have over 2000 different plastic spatulas to meet all your plastic spatula needs. Plus, if you are a plastic spatula club member, you get 10% off all plastic spatulas in stock. I would get the membership but they don’t discount special plastic orders.
And dont get me started on how excited i am that we are getting a new cat armor store to compete with the the high priced one we have now.
I prefer Spatula City. They sell spatulas, and that’s all.
I have tightened up our Y axis adjustment all I can and I'm still getting massive displacement when I run it over 30 mm/s as the Y axis keeps slipping. Any ideas?
Should have printed the ramps on end. Quicker since less movement and no supports but a tad nerve racking near the top. 😬
any settings for 0.4mm nozzle? i have the kobra plus with the suggested 0.2mm settings, but everything seem so long to print even simple stuff
if you retate the big long parts by 90 degree you can save some time and increase the quality (less z move) and for big print you can switch to 0.6 or 0.8 and cut the print time by 4
8:50 - Its preheating the nossle in order to correctly level its bed. Changing the temperature of the nossle makes the materials flex and half of a millimeter difference might ruin your prints.
I have just bought this printer and x axis is strongly out of phase, when i slice something to the left, it prints in the middle, and it also makes a loudly noise when it starts to print, like it is forcing itself to the left, idk what to do :c
At that size, 2 extruders would have been better. As you said, 500w of heat is not the best thing during summer just for print 1 small piece per 1 little small piece ... they should find a way to stop the vibration from circular extrusions, an angled or a ring action to move that extruder tip.
The review was great but the icing was the office commentary lol
Isnt this a downgrade? Can the print bed reach 110c? I did look at the anycubic page and it says max 90c. What do you think? Im on the fence in regards to buying this.
let the bed completely cool down before trying to remove the prints, they come off as soon as you touch them, trying to pry on them while they are still hot will damage the glass and the print.
Iv also learned you can hit the print near the base with glass cleaner or isopropyl.
I died when you said Matthew McConaughey and showed a picture of Woody Harrelson.
I'm a little sad that almost every printer on the market is a rehash of others. I got a Creality CR-6 SE like a year and a half ago and printers still look the exact same to this day. The only thing different about the Kobra Max is the double Y-axis and the larger volume..
How does this printer go with printing flexible filament being a Bowden style? Is it possible?
.8mm nozzle & .32mm layer height is essential for big prints like that. Lions only use a .4mm nozzle for flat panels.
11:58 Pretty impressive David Attenborough impression!
You can have one of my yard ornament trucks. Classics! Ran when parked! :3
I didn't go with this printer because of the bed and since I'd have to change the extruder. It has a PTFE tube going all the way through the hot end, so if you heat it to high temps, the PTFE will start to break down.
Ben - I picked up a Vyper after your review. I think I unboxed it around mid Jan? It's been a very fun learning experience. I paid entirely too much for a raspberry pi zero to run octoprint. I haven't had any issues with the hardware. I have had a few adhesion challenges on some of my prints, but I picked up magicgoo stick for that and that works great. I downloaded The Spagetti detective so I can keep an eye on my prints and I (just this morning) added a wifi power switch, so I can turn it off when it's done. Still need to automate that process, but still learning. It's been fun. Currently printing a launch pad for my model rockets.
A serious question Ben. Why don’t you print d-pads and buttons on a resin printer? And since you use so many, make a silicon mould of it and cast them in polyurethane resin? You’ll have a new set in 20 minutes. And little to no printing lines (especially after doing a sanding pass)
I used to be into silicon molds but I dunno... Just got tired of dealing with it. I'm lazy, I wanna press a button and boom, part.
Ben, I agree with you about it needing to be 120V heated bed. Out of curiosity, how long does it take to heat to 60C? 🙄
Finally the video for Piface 2
You can now print Devo hats.
Quite a large printer. Can’t wait to see what you make with it!
My favorite part of this entire video is where the assembly instructions say "Install Grass Plate".
Chinese people never swear, Ah so, ah so!
I bought a Vyper just before christmas and it broke the strain gauge after a few hours and I had to wait a month for a new one. The new one did the same thing after a few more hours and I had to wait for the new upgraded print head with more support on the hot end. Is this the same limited firmware that does not allow you to go into folders ? You might have guess I am not a fan of the vyper.
Does it heat up fast and have you printed PETG with it at all
You could speed your printer up to 120mm/s for your pinball parts easily. I think at 150mm/s is prob limit for still usable parts.
oh my god! its shocking how big it is, ive had mine since last wednesday! the adhesion is mental!
legit snapped my first ever print in half trying to get it off
Yeah, you can crank up the speed (feed rate?) all you want, but that doesn't account for the acceleration and jerk parameters (which are probably set pretty conservatively). It's sad that it doesn't have a way to change those values and save to eeprom (especially since Marlin firmware already has those options in the source code).
unless you chose acceleration and jerk acceleration in your slicer, turning the knob does VERY small increments to the feed rate and print speed.
Are you being limited by your volumetric flowrate in cura? I had this issue when I moved to a larger nozzle to my ender and had to override that.
Sabre reference was awesome!
I'm making a voron that uses a ac bed. It's very important to get a decent relay when doing this some kits have cheap ones that are known to fail open.
I was told not to put clips on sides as it would damage the hotbed circuit track.
I've got the SUNLU S8, its 310-310-400mm max. I've upgraded with E3DV6/Volcano full metal, Aluminum filament Feed, with stepper motor dampers on X/Y and TL smoothers. Its the fastest LARGE format FDM printer I've seen. All I need is a BMG drive upgrade and it'll be perfect. Also toying with the idea of re-flashing a more updated firmware, might also need those stability poles/braces. Spent about $350 overall. Good investment.
Yeaaaah... I didn't manage to notice the zip ties underneath mine until about a week and a half later, after contacting support, only to realize that that was not a sheet of delrin, but in fact zip ties.
HI, THANK YOU FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE THIS VIDEO , MY QUESTION TO YOU IS , DOES THE SCREEN GIVE YOU THE OPTION FOR DARK THEM , I AM VISIONED IMPAIRED AND AM HAVING TROBLE SEING ON A SCREEN LIKE THAT AND IS THERE ANY WAY TO CHANGE THE SCREEN , THANK YOU
This looks real promising. I can now have a 3d printer capable of printing purple martin gourds.
Hope you don't short your bed with those clips on the side. They are supposed to be front and back.
what filamend did you use that looks great what profile did you use in cura like I said layers look amazing
Hello! Do you do any custom projects? I'd love to buy a ps4 controller but just wider so I can have my hands at my sides. I've been looking all over the internet for something like it!
If you get to keep this printer will we see you try to implement AC bed heating and or bed zone heating? Using your wizardry?
13:09 Was that a Spatula City reference? 😂
I like spatulas so much I bought the company.
it was a commercial in the UHF film
@@sryx They sell spatulas. And that’s all.
Most important question for this.... Cant you adjust the Z-offset by 0.01mm? and not have to do 0.05mm skips like on the Vyper??
It's still .05mm.
I'm returning mine. Nothing but issues since I got it unfortunately. It WAS working great, until it wasn't. I just tried to level the bed and the print head damn near shattered the glass on the print bed. No good for $900.
Wasn't the office a reboot of the British version? or do those not count as reboots.
This is more a Anycubic Chiron upgrade. its the same size just looks like they took the Vyper and retrofitted it to the Chiron with some added features to solve the Chirons problems.
Where can we go if we want to see this music video you're working on?
Bud purring and meowing in the background sounds like he is narrating a cat version of the video to post in his version called MewTube!
Ben, I agree with you about it needing to be 120V heated bed. Out of curiosity, how long does it take to heat to 60C? That was one of the big negatives with the original CR10 - it would take about 15 minutes to come up to temp.
Does this have silent stepper drivers? or is the machine loud af when operating? I wanna order one but I'm not going to if I can't do homework sitting right next to it.
Machinery makes noise when it is operating. But feel free to make more unreasonable requests that will be laughed at.
@@1pcfred ruclips.net/video/fnJKO9WOjQs/видео.html&ab_channel=Vita_Tec
"16 cubic inches"??? so the print area is a 2.5x2.5x2.5 inch cube? that is seriously tiny for that size machine.
This thing is so big that there's no reason why you couldn't just use this to print smaller 3D printers, it would pay for itself pretty fast and you'd get a nice profit before the market became saturated.
Was that a new impression?
my kobra max first arrived was broken, so they sent me a new unit but its such a cool printer, huge, and slow because its huge, but fun
Put finished prints in freezer for 5 min for easy pop of the bed...
If you aren’t used to glass, it releases really well after it cools. Never have to scrape it off but it requires patience. I don’t have patience.
Will this thing print a speccy case?
You should of print those pinball track on Z axis. 450mm of pure pleasure and no support.
so, its a chiron with vyper hotend and a bmg extruder.also why would they send you a printer if you know nothing about them? also leaving part way through due to commentary. im out
Love your reviews, very in depth and all the information you need! I always get excited seeing a new video of yours. Will you be posting Max's music video when it's released?
I can link to it but I'm not the producer/owner of it so I can't host. Maybe I can? I'll ask.
Love the Perifractic shout-out!
If you open a box and there are no instructions when you are expecting to see them it means you have opened the box upside down.
Ooh, I wish I had the space for a printer this big. But at the moment I can't even get to my existing printer, since I've got boxes piled up in front of my workbench. A while back I was designing a custom mini PC case that could be 3D printed, but it would've required a lot of engineering to join the parts together. However with a 400x400 bed you could print the entire motherboard basal platten for a mATX board in one shot, not to mention the external panels.
Not too keen on the glass bed though, I've been spoiled by the removable steel sheet on my current printer. It's so nice to just whip it off soon after a print, give it a flex and your prints just pop off.
I swear if I ever move into a bigger apartment, I'll be spending so much on new printers and stuff to properly kit out my workshop/lab. My parents hinted if I get a place with a garage, I can buy a car, but I'm like why would I want a car when I can get a huge 3D printer!
speed might be bottlenecked by the volumetric extrusion rate set in slicer. often sat around 15, while you can probably get away with 20+ if you up the temp a bit.
Wondering why the bed has to be heated throughout the entire print? Can you tell I haven't used a 3d printer?
As the bed cools (and the part as well) the plastic shrinks at a different rate and can cause the print to come off the bed. So you keep it heated the whole time to prevent that.
@@ADBBuild Thanks Andrew!
@@ADBBuild I don't think the main reason prints pop off cold beds is different coefficients of expansion. I think you heat the bed up in the first place to make thermoset plastic more adhesive. Hot plastic is sticky plastic.
is it possible to heat up bed with AC? since PWM is required for temperature adjustment
You can control the power on an AC heater with a thyristor pulsing the AC on and off (like a dimmer)
@@gigigigiontis8 I would go with slow PWM instead, such as several seconds per cycle. TRIAC dimming is not very nice on the power grid. They could also rectify the AC line and switch the pulsing DC at high speed using MOSFETS, with some power filtering to reduce interference.
@@eDoc2020 Yeah there's multiple ways to do it (better), my point was just that you can control the temperature of an AC heated bed
Just bought one! Upgrading from an old Lulzbot TAZ4. I'm a bit concerned with removing prints. Not sure why they didn't make a removable flex bed like the smaller Kobra. Might return it and get the smaller Kobra just for that feature.
I haven't made the leap to 3d printer yet. But I want too.
So forgive me if these is a daft Question.
Is the heated bed, on throughout the print? Surely once the initial bond is made you could switch it off?
As my thoughts in relation to your zoned bed idea
It stays on the whole time, else the part might come loose before it finishes.
@@BenHeckHacks thank you, I didn't know that
@@davidsharp9166 you didn't notice how the parts pop off when the bed cools? Parts coming loose during prints is bad. It's almost the worst thing you can have happen during a print. Though the whole printer catching on fire and burning your house down might be marginally worse. We just had a house burn here due to a laptop brick going up.
You comment in the video said "Brim is useful for large objects" but i think its the other way around. Useful for small contact areas that needs extra grip on the plate. Non the less an interesting review and vid!
You should now print He-Man's tiger helmet, spikes and all the suit for your cat Bud :D
1:56 The Office (US version) was already a reboot!
Spatula City!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video, can you tell me how much space I would need for this machine? I know the dimensions, but I feel like it needs a bigger space for things to move around while printing.
Found the answer myself in case someone needs it. ruclips.net/video/n9iP_wplrno/видео.html
"hello chip dippers" voice lol
The answer to your question at 13:08 is spatula city.
Awesome new 3D printer Ben. 👍😊
i3 style printer with large bed sizes cannot be fast, they need to move the bed and object that is being printed, that's a lot of mass
What are you eating under there?
I bought a Vyper after your review and I find the print bed has uneven temperature area so a few of my prints lifted. I will have to invest in some glue.
I am thinking about getting this bad boy for my first 3d printer, and yes, I am new to 4d printing.
Did you buy one? I am also new and looking at this printer.
You can up the speed on the printer just do it manually on the printer there should be a tuning menu while printing so you can adjust while printing.
just turn the knob and the feed/rate goes faster
(13:33) well... "Kobra" is the german word for "Cobra", so not really misspelled 😉
You can even print Bud a twin cat to hiss at!
I got my first 3d printer after i bens review of the vyper and it print 24/7
I have a Chiron which is basically the first generation of Anycubics large FDM printers. Its def way slower then my Prusa clone. But you have to remember its massive and those little stepper motors by comparison can only move the print head around so fast. Also not being a direct drive extruder can effect speeds a bit because of retraction. Generally speaking a core X Y printer will print much faster at this large scale. This Prusa style design has its limits especially at this scale.
Thanks for the video. Just bought this one and need all the help I cam get. Newbie here. Liked and subscribed. I’m looking to where I can find files? Thanks.