CNC Kitchen, this is a great video! Thank you, this is great and useful information. thank you for all of you great content it has been very helpful for me
Don't forget that PLA is not suitable for CPU coolers mounting plates. ;-) I love your videos. Thanks for sharing all the knowledge and please continue with your videos and with the Meltzone podcast too.
That filament roll doesn't use less material.. It has lots and lots of hexagonal walls.. If you flatten them all, it is just one flat plane about the thickness of normal filament roll.
@@eduardo_Skywaller1032 aliexpress and bangood is banned in india and I was like 😱 when it got banned . It basically was banned to promote Indian products use but india doesn't manufacture 3d printers and so boom .
@@BenWilson24 And the metal parts are used to stir milk and the nesquick additive together so that the astronauts can have hot chocolate in space, right?!
I tested PLA, ABS, and PETG for an engineering project last year. I found that PETG was the strongest, ABS was second, and PLA was significantly weaker. I think the design of the hooks is the main difference, where yours was open, and mine was closed. An open hook applies a torque on the material, which may lead to the difference results.
Makes sense: in the stiff PLA, most of the cross-section shares the tensile component of the bending force, and only the outer wall takes the compression. Whereas PETG and ABS yield more and thereby distribute the compression zone further inwards, which means the tensile load is more concentrated on the inner wall and thus has to withstand higher tensile stress despite same load. I'd say the open hook is a rather _more_ real-world-relevant test for static strength than pure tension though. PLA's stiffness means you can easier estimate how parts will behave under mixed-compressive loading, you don't need to worry about buckling etc. as much. OTOH, if your 3D-prints need to handle strong, purely tensile loads, you're doing something wrong in design - such tasks are much better given to wires / cables / ropes etc. The flip side is of course that the stiffness exacerbates PLA's brittleness. Definitely not the right material to expose to impacts. Not to mention high temperatures.
PLA would really be the best material - if the temperature resistance wouldn't render it unusable for most applications. (without annealing etc). You can't put it in a car, mount an eletric motor to it, leave it in the sun - its basically living in the shadows^^ . The toughness/strength etc. can usually be compensated by making the part bigger or reinforcing areas.
Ironically, I'm printing some load bearing parts that are literally going in a temperature-controlled closet. My PLA is like "Yes! This is my wheelhouse!"
I don't think your car goes to 50 degrees CELSIUS. So it should be good enough for anything of that sort, excluding impact resistance. Edit: clearly I was wrong, sorry, I guess cars do get hot. Thanks to all the people who corrected me!
@@DhruvGN8 Cars go up to 70 degrees celsius when left in the sun in summer. And I am not talking about death valley, just normal German summer with 32 degrees celsius outside. Problem is the greenhouse effect within the car
Its true that stiffness does not equal strength, but its also very important to remember that tension stress isnt the only parameter that matters when doing strength testing. Id like to see you test all 5 pillars of mechanical stress: tension, compression, bending, shear, and torsion.
@@steffengr.5556 Wood PLA isn't fully PLA. straight PLA degrades here in the sun after like 8 months it starts to crack & be brittle.... Ofc we're at 9000ft above sea level. ABS has lasted forever and petg has so far been ok
Good point, though some argue that the perfect winding is bad for drying since it doesn't leave a lot of gaps. Can't really comment on the last point, though.
@@CNCKitchen me neither....Ive only observed that for same amount of drying time - spools with holes on the sides started degrading print much more layers later than ones that are solid
For me it's PETG all the big things. Easiest to print (always sticks perfectly to the build plate!) and is quite strong. For small items it's PLA because it has the best finish surface. ASA for high temps.
I've been researching what filament and style of printer would be best for building an automated hydroponic gardening system. It would need to be strong enough to hold several pounds of vegetation but also light and heat resistant. Would ASA in an enclosed printer be the best option?
Part design techniques, infill techniques, slicing tweaks, filament selection, printer configuration, the list goes on. So many variables to consider! I'm quickly losing track of how best to get from an idea to a great print using my software tools, equipment and filaments. I'm thinking Stefan has provided enough information to not only generate a basic decision tree, but to provide surface plots of the trade-offs between choices at each level in that decision tree. I'm thinking he should collect his data and wisdom to author a book: "Engineering the 3D Printing Process for Consumer Printers and Filaments." I'd buy one!
I absolutely agree. That would be a fascinating read. However, I assume it would probably be more profitable for him to spend his time just creating videos like these.
He's putting the info out there, and apparently you're watching it. Just take notes😉. But seriously, take notes. You won't be able to remember the exact results in a week's time, all you'll be able to remember is the tier list you compiled to fit your applicarions. At least thats all I can remember. If you write it down, if in the future you're ever in doubt all you'll need to do is look into your notes, a sub one minute thing, instead of warhhing a 17 minute video you'll have to find first.
Book? What's that? When I need information I look it up on RUclips and other Internet sites. We have the information of the entire world at our fingertips. If I need information it needs it to be searchable, therefore digital. Books are something from the past as far as I am concerned. I've bought thousands of books in my lifetime but no more.
Discovered ASA recently, and now it's my favourite filament... If possible use an enclosure because of warping and layer adhesion, fan 20% max , but the best part is it can be smoothed with hot acetone vapour just like ABS. It gives you injected plastique look, with no layer visible at 0.2mm, at all...
From an aircraft design perspective, quadcopter or otherwise, ASAs lower density looks really attractive. I can print something 15 percent bigger for the same filament weighty, and design members and walls 15% thicker. Since stress usually acts on the outside skin of a part first, that 15% bigger makes a big difference to the ultimate strength
@@CNCKitchen While it's nice to use 3d printed parts for aircraft related things it's generally one of the worst materials in terms of it's strength to weight ratio especially when you consider alternative like wood or foam or composites. Weight is the enemy when you're making performance aircraft.
Certainly someone has used multiple extruders to create composite solids with interweaved materials. This may produce interesting strength test results. Nylon/ASA.
I'm really grateful for you amd this channel. Being new to 3D printing, caring about the subjects of your content, but lacking the time to learn on my own, your contributions cannot be understated. Please keep up the fantastic work! You have made a huge impact on me already, and allowed me to produce amazing things!
Here at Speedbird Aero, we are changing from PLA to PETG because of the temperatures in Brazil. On a sunny day, the PLA parts simply can't handle the temperature when the drone is outdoors. Amazing video, as always!
I'm going to watch this more than once. The first time was just pure enjoyment. The second time I realized I should have been taking notes. Will definitely be sharing this video with my students. Thanks!
The same here. However I have the HDglass PETG and it seems to be stronger than PLA I have from the same company. I can really break it easier...I do not get it...
This channel has become a go-to invaluable resource for my projects! Thank you for actually doing the science and not just being a glorified advertizer.
Another interesting dimension for your tests would be abrasion. Which materials would be best for uses like gears or shafts and bushings or cams? Do any of the materials self-lubricate as they wear? Your quantified analysis is very useful and unique in this hobby environment. Great job. Thank you. We are looking forward to more videos.
I use PETG for anything I use in the car and if there are parts that I expect to break and do not want flying parts all over the place. PLA+ for everything else. I do not have conditions to print ASA
I used the sample PLA roll that came with my printer, then immediately switched to PETG. It's a bit tougher to dial in, but the thermal and UV resistance are good things in my opinion. And the warpage can be a good warning sign before complete failure, especially in printer parts. Oh, and small stringing can be easily burned off with a lighter.
i use petg when i need part to flex a little without snapping like i printed some hooks to keep my shed doors open they needed to bend a little to allow the door to pass under then click down to hold in place when i try pla it just snapped even when i annealed them petg is still going stong. i also notice with many materials exposed to the hsrsh Florida sun petg seems to hold up very well to uv and barely fade its color. Pla can fade quite a bit in the full sun and dark colors like browns and black absorb enough infrared that they wurp badly but lighter colors can survive I print quite a bit of abs in an enclosure made of pvc and mylar blankets and it works quite well for taller print you have to be sure to Orient it so the heat from the bed can flow up the print evenly. if it traps heat the you can get layer issues. The mylar blankets can keep it around 38c in chamber with no problem. Great work on your research.
Great job, as always! I use PLA and PET-G. ASA and ABS are no go for me due to their potential threat to health. I mostly use PLA and support it with PET-G when bending instead of cracking or higher temperature is need (like in-car hooks). I also use flex 40D material as a thin supporting layer (ie to create soft surface on a hand watch mount) or absorb a bit of vibration (like mounting something to my electric scooter).
Great information! Thank you for all the work you put into these tests! I just started using a 3D printer and have only used PLA. I plan to get some smaller spools of PETG and ABS soon to see how it works.
That review deserves you getting paid my friend, a very detailed review, just wow. Look no further for desiding which filament is the best. 10 star review. 👍👍👍👍
Really surprised to see PETG perform the way it did, its become my new go-to at present, though its tear as opposed to shear characteristic is desirable for the project I am working on. As you rightly say Stefan, there is no single ideal filament, only a "best for application".
Your test methodology seriously disadvantages the ASA layer adhesion. Using a bed slinger with fan on without a heater enclosure is worst case scenario for ASA. Would very much like to see a deeper look into ASA performance with it's unique requirements taken into consideration. It's a really high performance material when used correctly. UV resistance, high temp resistance, chemical resistance, impact resistance, less smell than ABS, and easier to print that polycarbonate.
J Z good comment - I have been trying to use the Prusament ASA this winter and haven’t been getting good results, especially with layer adhesion. Would also love to see some follow up on how to accommodate ASA with home 3D printers.
@@jarnold2000 I use a vented tent over my corexy. The heated bed is large and powerful and can keep the inside of the tent to about 40c which seems enough. 0 part cooling fan as well.
I use Devil Design uncolored ASA, and can't even print with it when the ambient temperature is under 30°C (bed adhesion/warping). I use a home made enclosure which is clad with insulated reflective foil, capable of reaching a toasty 65°C. When printed in a heated enclosure, I can't even bend similar parts by hand which snap with ease in PLA. Also part cooling is a no-go with ASA, even the hot-end fan can ruin the properties of ASA. The only downside I found (but may be fixable) is that ASA shrinks a lot more when cooling after printing, so holes and alignment keying can be a bit of a pain.
@@JasonZnack Very cool. I need to try to get to building an enclosure so some sort. Or at least wait until the weather warms up. :) Will try no cooling too.
As a total newcomer to the 3D printing hobby, this has been a really interesting lesson in the different qualities of different materials. I have been using standard PLA at about £20 per kilo from ERYONE and I find that it is a good all rounder and prints quite well. My idea of a good print may differ from others, but I am very happy with it. Thank you for taking the time to share your results with us.
I use PETG for parts I put into my RC plane kits that I sell. Once tuned, PETG prints very well with no stringing. The only issue I get sometimes is the blobbing on the end of the nozzle. Due to the blobs I only print one part at a time to avoid a drip which ruins the part. I have not used ASA and will consider doing some testing this spring. Thanks for another great video!!
I can vouch for a paving slab + foam as a huge upgrade too. Prints are better, printer is quieter. The foam doesn't have to be thick, I cut up a cheap yoga mat.
Thank you Stefan, Your video helped me alot with my Antenna block project. I'm printing an antenna holder for the Ubiquiti UAP outdoor wifi antenna. I ended up going with ASA in my final choice due to it's impact strength (it needs to be hurricane-proof), and be wind and bird resistant (wind and birds would twist the antenna to where the wifi would be decreased significantly) ASA also has superior resistance to UV, but also Temperature, and I also needed it to bear hot and humid weather as well as moisture.
Love these videos. I've actually used PLA before to 3d print model rocket nozzles, and as long as the burn times were short it held up pretty well. I only saw about 1mm of erosion over a 1 second burn, since the nozzles were single use anyway this wasn't a problem. Might post the testing footage when I've got time to put together a video.
Thanks for showed us this research, I usually use PLA, and a couple of time ABS, but this is a bit difficult without an enclosure, ABS is getting always miss adhesion between layers.
Thanks for this review. Very useful as usual. To answer your question, I print mostly with PLA. It's easy and surprisingly good. I print with PETG when I need better heat resistance, such as parts for my printer or the ones that goes in the car.
I have made a lot of things for my daily life including some chainsaw parts. I use PETG for everything now after some of my PLA parts warped in my car on a sunny day. Lately I've been doing some more detailed work with overhangs and bridges. I miss PLA's no hassle printability.
Somewhat new to 3d printing but have shifted from PLA to PETG because of the higher thermal resistance in the event I leave one of my prints in the car. I have not tried ABS or ASA yet. The one thing I really don't like about the PETG is the hard little globs that sometimes get jammed up in the print and either cause it to break free of the bed or cause the belt to skip and offset the layers from that point.
Thank you for these experiments, they help me a lot in my own experiments. I've been using eSUN PLA+ for my 3D printed planes for a while now and they seem to perform better than the other materials like Flashforge & Wanhao filaments that I use. It'll be cool if you can compare the eSUN line up of materials experimentally, considering they're pretty inexpensive for the quality that I find in them. I use the PLA+ for fuselage parts & ABS+ for parts that may get hot like motor mounts. I do crude testing for stiffness by hanging weights on printed cantilevers & do drop tests for checking impact strength resistance.
I used PLA with my Prusa i2. After upgrading it to a 2.5 with the PEI spring steel bed I never got good adhesion anymore and now use PET or PETG. It sticks like glue to the bed but you get more fine hairs (stringing) on the print.
What I have discovered with my BASF ASA filament is, that it degenerates the longer the material is in the hot nozzle. I improved the layer adhesion by printing my ASA parts as fast as possible. Have you tried different speeds for ASA, Stefan?
I would love to see different types of PLA tested. (Using example I know about) Like Fiberlogy has Impact PLA (Claims to have up to 800% compared to regular PLA and 50% compared to ABS more impact strenght) and HD PLA (special for annealing) and regular PLA's. I wonder how different they really are when tested, is it just marketing or there is some truth there.
Usually fiber infused materials provide more strength along the layers, but the layer adhesion suffers. Making the weak point weaker and the strongest point stronger has very limited usecases.
I'm living in Nordic weather and minus degrees are normal during winter, down to -30C. I'd love to see you test these materials with cold temps also! Another point to add - impact strength of some plastics is increased when they have absorbed some water. I know this from RC hobby and propellers. Running them after winter, when they've dried out, they are very brittle. The trick is to put them into hot water and stay there for 12+ hours. So I hope you could take on cold test and hygroscopic (after printing) test of these materials.
Useful testing and comparison. I am currently making GoPro parts with PETG made in Australia where I live and I am very pleased with the results. One quirk, I can sit alonside the machine while I am printing PETG and I cannot detect any odour at all. Using the VisionMiner adhesive on a Creality glass bed and I have no problems removing the finished parts after it cools down a bit.
Great video as always I use PLA when it is a indoor item I use ASA when it is a outdoor item (and I love the surface of the prints :-) ) I use PETG when the item is a practical item, there you have some ware on the item. more stringing but very usabil oh and mostly from filament PM, i think there quality is in Pruca league. Thanks for sharing :-)
Wow Stefan, ich kann nur sagen deine Videos haben wirklich eine durchgängige Profi Qualität! Die Mühe die du dir mir deinen Experimenten machst, da kommt hier kaum wer ran. Immer wieder sehr interessant! Ich hätte nicht erwartet dass PLA doch noch so gut abschneidet! (Hitze test mal außen vor xD)
was listening to this video while doing other things. but then "for example, if you're crashing your quadcopter" was like awaking from a dream with instant focus :D
You might want to try a double walled enclosure for ABS/ASA. Or an insulated one. You can also make a heated one with a space heater, a duct, a fan and a controller to exhaust the heat to keep it at a constant temperature.
This is fantastic. Well executed and documented. As an engineer I really appreciate your methods. I have been using PLA+ which has a slightly higher softening temperature and am trying out PETG soon. I have issues with ABS/ASA because I live in a cold area and don't have an enclosure. I have had multiple prints fail because of bad layer adhesion with ABS.
I would recommend you make a closed space for your printer, you can support it with some glass sheets and some metal profiles, the key is not to lose temperature due to your icy environment
Bro, being an engineer doesn't make your appreciation for his methods any more valuable, I know it might be hard to grasp, but most engineers, and especially the pretenxious ones, are really shitty at knowing their stuff, trust me, I'm an engineer 😂
Very well presented and highly informative as always. Thanks Stefan. I mostly use PLA but for mechanical parts it's PETG all from @3dprintz. I do have other filaments for other projects too.
Great Info. Tq very much for all the effort taken to give a good comparison. My experience do not leave any "built product" in a parked car for too long with temp reaching 43 deg C and does not last long in a water filled aquarium (unless built dense)
Yes I'd also like to see some TPU hook tests, it's the perfect printable material for holding sport cams & some other things on quadcopters. Its resistance to heat makes it great to hold video transmitters without melting. Only once I've had a TPU part in a crash fail from the layers separating a little bit because it was 'wet' when printed. I just took a soldering iron and melted the seam back together. But now I dry all my filaments and store them in air tight tubs with silica gel beads, dry TPU prints look so good and are so strong.
Printed a monitor vesa mount today. Put a 27" monitor on it. 2 hours later the Mount snapped and the monitor fell into the camp chair and cushions I had setup just in case. I printed it in PLA. I printed it in an orientation that didn't require supports but it reduced the strength. It snapped between layers.
Personally I'm still sticking mostly to PLA due to being relatively new to printing. Expanding to more materials once I get more skilled :) PETG is interesting me at least.
Try it Today's PETG is super simple. Especially if you have a decent printer like the Prusa, standart settings do the trick. Press start and go to bed. No issue. Perfect surfaces, robust prints.
If you're printing PETG using Cura, make sure to up the temps to something around 240c for the hotend. If you have one where the PTFE tube goes into the hotend, you'll need to get an all metal one for it too. That would only apply with something like an Ender 3 though; the Prusa wouldn't need modifications... maybe to slicer settings thouhg.
@@moth.monster idk i'm priting petg with 225c and it seems to work better for my filament. increasing the temperature that much causes more stringing. the recommended range on the sticker of my roll is 220~240. although i did get a bit of underextrusion when i was printing with 0.32mm layers that ruined some practical prints.
Thank you, great comparison. But based on my experience and your video -- the specific material brand/vendor matters. All the PLAs I have tried in Canada( beside the Wood PLA which is not regular PLA) are weaker than PETGs. Also, PETGs I've used are significantly more wear resistant than PLA. The spindle mount I have printed with PLA material for my CNC3020 500w spindle has cracked and passed away in ~4 months because of all mechanical impacts and vibration. The same mount printed in PETG works for ~1.5 years without any issues.
How about testing how well they stick to each other? I bought a pallette 2 pro and I curious as to which plastics are totally incompatible or really compatible. Also it might be interesting to engineer the prints... for instance using stiffer high strength materials in better locations to get maximum moment of inertia and use cheaper materials as the web.
With the Pallette you should probably stick to one material (PLA/PVA should work as well) because the materials go through one nozzle. Purging between materials requires way more material than just switching color.
@@CNCKitchen I was trying PVA and having good adhesion on the splice with ABS... but then I saw a video showing PETG as a bond breaker at the support interface when printing with PLA. In multi-colour printing I currently have a very nice translucent red PETG and a black ABS I was going to print in the same part and this is why I pose the idea. Using the splice I can stick anything to anything but layer to layer would be a different story. If only the colour changes could occur without the expense/complexity of a good multinozzle setup or the huge purge block of a single nozzle!
I tested multi-material prints on a Prusa MMU2S. PLA and PETG won't stick. They do work great as support material for each other (100% interface layer). However, you can basically pull your print layers apart with your hands. The impurities which remain in the nozzle destroy your layer adhesion. You need a crazy amount of purge volume to actually clean your nozzle. This basically makes the MMU unit from Prusa useless for me. I still think they should call it a "multi colour unit" and not a "multi material unit".
@@michaelschaub Hmmmmm... this is what I was afraid of. You almost need a table things that stick and things that don't and THEN choose the properties you want to exploit.
@@someguy2741 There are specific support materials out there for PLA and ABS/ASA and Nylon. For PETG I found nothing when I searched last year. However, PLA suprisingly perfect for that job. So the topic "what does not stick to each other" can be handeled. More difficult will be the question what sticks to each other. However, it should be a rare case that you need one part made out of two materials. You could address that directly in the design process. Don't just cut it and print two flat surfaces of different materials and hope for layer adhesion. Better design joints directly in the part, like you would do it in woodworking. Also, add some holes for screws if you can. I'm holding two pieces of PETG with some Epoxy and two 12*3mm screws together, works great.
Uber fidly. You need to temperature and humidity control your filament - even while printing. Your printer needs to be in an enclosed heated area, and you need to use your spare hot end....
I mainly use PETG as I can have it for nearly as cheap as PLA and I read somewhere it is UV resistant,. But I don't know if a UV-resistance test can be doable? Maybe with a light for nail polish?
A nail polish UV light is probably too narrow in spectrum to get a proper result. You'd properly need more professional equipment, or just place a batch outside.
It would also be dependent on the colour of the sample. Different dyes will drastically effect UV resistance. Different dyes will fade differently so you would need to decide whether you are most concerned about colour retention or strength. For strength you would need to compare clear filaments I suppose? I think this would need to be placed outside for an extended period. So its not terribly practical unless you want to wait a year for the results :p The good news is if you really need UV resistance you could spray paint or clear coat the item and get the results without worrying about the filament.
Sounds odd but I have discovered that cleaning the filament before printing makes layer adhesion much better. Perhaps some sort of oils form during manufacturing? Not sure. I wipe mine with rubbing alcohol on a rag as I re-spool a new spool onto an empty spool. Give it a try. You’ll be surprised at the amount of gunk on the filament!
My chosen filament is ASA for outdoor applications. I produce Paintball equipments and the rigidity and outdoor specs, make it perfect! Hard to print for sure, just took me about 3 months to get it very good!
I can't remember if you've ever performed these tests on Taulman's Alloy 910, but I'd be really interested to see how it compares when rigorously tested. It's my go-to nylon type material, prints nicely when very dry, is lighter than PLA, stiffer than other nylons and tougher than anything I've ever been able to throw at it
Materials engineer here, even thou the tests are not standard, they are pretty decent to compare the materials. I would prefer petg hands down for most applications. Petg is a very sweet spot of additive manufacturing filaments. It is watertight with 1.75 mm wall thickness, can handle temperatures up to 75-80 degrees, ductile at low strain rates, moderate fracture strength, moderate impact strength, stiffness is a bit low but when you get a wall thickness of around 3mm, its very stiff. It is a very sweet material to 3d print structural parts.
Nice video, really would like to see what something like an 80-100°C chamber does to ABS, but i guess PLA will remain my go-to for now since getting a really hot chamber is such a hassle and on top of that PLA seems to deal with the biggest mechanical issue of 3d printing, layer adhesion, so well.
PETG is my go to filament I don’t have to worry about temperatures unless the part is mounted in high temperature environments (engine bay) but for that I use CF-PA. And as always Great video!
Stop! Don't leave this video! If you're like me and just want someone to say "x is the strongest filament," abandon that cause and watch this video! I did (at 2x speed) and can say it'll answer that question in the detail required that you didn't know was necessary! The tests and experiments contained herein were excellent. Maybe because the concept was new to me, the impact test astounded me at it's simplicity of design. I wasn't sure if this was an industry standard or his own invention but I knew that the results, regardless, were accurate. The 3 point test was scientifically exact and accurate as well. The thing I found interesting in regards to "x = best" was that each filament may serve better in different applications and you could potentially use different filaments in the same machine depending on what stress is where. Well done video. Subbed! Proverbs 27:17
the original prusa® i3™ mk3™ made by Prusa® labs™ by Joseph™ Prusa® using PRUSAMENT™ by Prusa® Labs™ Approved by Joseph™ Prusa® Using original Prusa®Slicer™ by Joseph® Prusa™
a few comments, firstly look into decreasing the size of the enclosure to retain more heat. Second perhaps try reflectix to insulate the chamber. Lastly look at trying different colors of filaments and how strength is affected. Oddly, i hear pink is quite strong. I would be interested in hearing what your results are!
Jesus Christ I’m literally 4 minutes into this thing and he hasn’t gotten to the content yet... Update: scratch that 6 minutes and still hasn’t got to the content...
I've been trying to print with PETG recently and I've found it to be far more brittle than PLA+. Maybe I'm not printing it hot enough (240°C) but it shatters rather than plastically deforms as yours seems to.
My printer is the Prusa i3 MK3. I have only used PLA and PETG. I prefer the PETG, as it is less brittle. The ASA filament looks interesting, so I may try it sometime. Thanks for your analysis of filaments.
Hmm one thing I feel that may benefit parts that have the clean breaks like that is they can be glued back together where as the stretching would ruin the part.
Living in Florida, I default to PETG because of the heat. Nothing I make is regularly outdoors or in the car, but if power gets knocked out or I do forget something in the car I can rest easy knowing the heat won't warp it at all. However, revisiting this video several years later, I do see that I have discounted PLA too much. I will start using them more interchangeably, I greatly enjoy the ease of printing with PLA.
Question. During the impact tests. For the samples that don't just break completely free on impact. I wonder how much of the energy lost that is measured could be due to the dragging of the hammer over the remaining sample. Probably not much but it was just a thought.
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CNC Kitchen, this is a great video! Thank you, this is great and useful information.
thank you for all of you great content it has been very helpful for me
Don't forget that PLA is not suitable for CPU coolers mounting plates. ;-)
I love your videos. Thanks for sharing all the knowledge and please continue with your videos and with the Meltzone podcast too.
That filament roll doesn't use less material.. It has lots and lots of hexagonal walls.. If you flatten them all, it is just one flat plane about the thickness of normal filament roll.
16:00 Density "zu" strenght and stiffness 😂
Hallo Stefan, könntest du mal Biofusion von Extrudr testen?
why am i watching this at 3am, i don't even have a 3d printer.
Maybe it will come in usefull one day
01:47am 😁
@@colonelhacker3661 no
@@eduardo_Skywaller1032 unless you live in india that ender 3 is 230$
@@eduardo_Skywaller1032 aliexpress and bangood is banned in india and I was like 😱 when it got banned . It basically was banned to promote Indian products use but india doesn't manufacture 3d printers and so boom .
7:50 strength tests start. 11:25 stiffness test. 12:25 impact test. 13:20 temperature test
0:00 Epic Video starts
Anyone wants 3d print but their parent don't give
thank you
MVP right here
thanks
As an additive manufacturing engineer, I seriously love how well done the science is on this channel...
Additive Manufacturing Engineer? You mean you make Nestle Kwik Chocolate milk powder additive. At least that is what I wanted to be at 5 years old...
@@Patrick_Cooper haha I make metal parts for aerospace applications
@@BenWilson24
And the metal parts are used to stir milk and the nesquick additive together so that the astronauts can have hot chocolate in space, right?!
@@i.i.iiii.i.i Idk if it would pass as food-grade material, but I did print a friend a fancy inconel coffee tamper
Actually sounds awesome. I’ve wanted to get into AM for a career for awhile now. Not a lot of jobs that focus specifically on that
I tested PLA, ABS, and PETG for an engineering project last year. I found that PETG was the strongest, ABS was second, and PLA was significantly weaker. I think the design of the hooks is the main difference, where yours was open, and mine was closed. An open hook applies a torque on the material, which may lead to the difference results.
How you print it makes a huge difference. When printing hotter, the layer adhesion will increase drastically, especially with PETG
Makes sense: in the stiff PLA, most of the cross-section shares the tensile component of the bending force, and only the outer wall takes the compression. Whereas PETG and ABS yield more and thereby distribute the compression zone further inwards, which means the tensile load is more concentrated on the inner wall and thus has to withstand higher tensile stress despite same load.
I'd say the open hook is a rather _more_ real-world-relevant test for static strength than pure tension though. PLA's stiffness means you can easier estimate how parts will behave under mixed-compressive loading, you don't need to worry about buckling etc. as much. OTOH, if your 3D-prints need to handle strong, purely tensile loads, you're doing something wrong in design - such tasks are much better given to wires / cables / ropes etc.
The flip side is of course that the stiffness exacerbates PLA's brittleness. Definitely not the right material to expose to impacts. Not to mention high temperatures.
@@rikkardo9359 , At higher printing temperatures, PETG becomes brittle.
@@Valery_1954 I do not have that much experience with PETG. Thanks for the info
@@Valery_1954 definately not unless your printing too hot for the material and it's crystalizing.
PLA would really be the best material - if the temperature resistance wouldn't render it unusable for most applications. (without annealing etc). You can't put it in a car, mount an eletric motor to it, leave it in the sun - its basically living in the shadows^^ . The toughness/strength etc. can usually be compensated by making the part bigger or reinforcing areas.
Ironically, I'm printing some load bearing parts that are literally going in a temperature-controlled closet. My PLA is like "Yes! This is my wheelhouse!"
But can PLA be exposed to the sun tho?
I don't think your car goes to 50 degrees CELSIUS. So it should be good enough for anything of that sort, excluding impact resistance.
Edit: clearly I was wrong, sorry, I guess cars do get hot. Thanks to all the people who corrected me!
@@DhruvGN8 Cars go up to 70 degrees celsius when left in the sun in summer. And I am not talking about death valley, just normal German summer with 32 degrees celsius outside. Problem is the greenhouse effect within the car
@@VentoGelado Yes it can be, uv light will not damage it significantly.
Its true that stiffness does not equal strength, but its also very important to remember that tension stress isnt the only parameter that matters when doing strength testing. Id like to see you test all 5 pillars of mechanical stress: tension, compression, bending, shear, and torsion.
Would be very interested in seeing this test repeated with the prints having spent a significant time under a UV light
I can tell you 1 thing: rip PLA
What is a significant time? I have Wood PLA stuff outside in the garden since August last year. So far still looks good.
@@steffengr.5556 Wood PLA isn't fully PLA. straight PLA degrades here in the sun after like 8 months it starts to crack & be brittle.... Ofc we're at 9000ft above sea level. ABS has lasted forever and petg has so far been ok
We already know that PLA can't handle UV. No test needed. If you are going to put PLA printed parts outside in the sun, paint them :-)
Was more interested in the actual figures for ASA vs petg for tensile and deformation post uv
I would add that the prusa spool design is also great if You want to dry filament....if the sides are solid then the bottom layers wont get that dry
Good point, though some argue that the perfect winding is bad for drying since it doesn't leave a lot of gaps. Can't really comment on the last point, though.
@@CNCKitchen me neither....Ive only observed that for same amount of drying time - spools with holes on the sides started degrading print much more layers later than ones that are solid
@@CNCKitchen I guess you could also argue the perfect winding will keep the filament inside the spool drier.
For me it's PETG all the big things. Easiest to print (always sticks perfectly to the build plate!) and is quite strong.
For small items it's PLA because it has the best finish surface.
ASA for high temps.
I've been researching what filament and style of printer would be best for building an automated hydroponic gardening system. It would need to be strong enough to hold several pounds of vegetation but also light and heat resistant. Would ASA in an enclosed printer be the best option?
Part design techniques, infill techniques, slicing tweaks, filament selection, printer configuration, the list goes on. So many variables to consider! I'm quickly losing track of how best to get from an idea to a great print using my software tools, equipment and filaments.
I'm thinking Stefan has provided enough information to not only generate a basic decision tree, but to provide surface plots of the trade-offs between choices at each level in that decision tree. I'm thinking he should collect his data and wisdom to author a book: "Engineering the 3D Printing Process for Consumer Printers and Filaments."
I'd buy one!
I absolutely agree. That would be a fascinating read.
However, I assume it would probably be more profitable for him to spend his time just creating videos like these.
He's putting the info out there, and apparently you're watching it. Just take notes😉.
But seriously, take notes. You won't be able to remember the exact results in a week's time, all you'll be able to remember is the tier list you compiled to fit your applicarions. At least thats all I can remember.
If you write it down, if in the future you're ever in doubt all you'll need to do is look into your notes, a sub one minute thing, instead of warhhing a 17 minute video you'll have to find first.
Book? What's that? When I need information I look it up on RUclips and other Internet sites. We have the information of the entire world at our fingertips. If I need information it needs it to be searchable, therefore digital. Books are something from the past as far as I am concerned. I've bought thousands of books in my lifetime but no more.
Discovered ASA recently, and now it's my favourite filament...
If possible use an enclosure because of warping and layer adhesion, fan 20% max , but the best part is it can be smoothed with hot acetone vapour just like ABS. It gives you injected plastique look, with no layer visible at 0.2mm, at all...
Hmm. I may try that on my next filament order.
I have been seeing ASA pop up more and more. So I did some research and will definitely be getting some on my next filament order.
fan at 0% improves layer adhesion massively and helps a lot to prevent warping cracks in large prints
Also it's really easy to sand!
ASA is a revolution if your printer prints it well (the P1S is perfect).
From an aircraft design perspective, quadcopter or otherwise, ASAs lower density looks really attractive. I can print something 15 percent bigger for the same filament weighty, and design members and walls 15% thicker. Since stress usually acts on the outside skin of a part first, that 15% bigger makes a big difference to the ultimate strength
I think warping might be an issue. 3dLabprint did experiment with a low density PLA for non load bearing parts I saw in a video and they recommend it.
Video on that coming 😉
@@CNCKitchen While it's nice to use 3d printed parts for aircraft related things it's generally one of the worst materials in terms of it's strength to weight ratio especially when you consider alternative like wood or foam or composites.
Weight is the enemy when you're making performance aircraft.
Hey, have you tested how ABS or resin prints perform in aircraft parts?
@@seemlesslies
Certainly someone has used multiple extruders to create composite solids with interweaved materials. This may produce interesting strength test results. Nylon/ASA.
I'm really grateful for you amd this channel. Being new to 3D printing, caring about the subjects of your content, but lacking the time to learn on my own, your contributions cannot be understated.
Please keep up the fantastic work! You have made a huge impact on me already, and allowed me to produce amazing things!
Here at Speedbird Aero, we are changing from PLA to PETG because of the temperatures in Brazil. On a sunny day, the PLA parts simply can't handle the temperature when the drone is outdoors.
Amazing video, as always!
I'm going to watch this more than once. The first time was just pure enjoyment. The second time I realized I should have been taking notes.
Will definitely be sharing this video with my students. Thanks!
It seems I was mislead about the strength of PETG, now I'm struggling to think of a use I might have for it.
Same, now i'm thinking about ABS+ or ASA.
The same here. However I have the HDglass PETG and it seems to be stronger than PLA I have from the same company. I can really break it easier...I do not get it...
@@kamilchodzynski9395 Higher temperature resistance and it won't burst like PLA, so it is more durable.
I'm more surprised by how well PLA did in the strength test. No PLA I've used would stand any where near 73Kg on that pull test.
Exactly, as I said my PLA is far weaker than here presented. Either the Prusa PLA is super strong or PETG very weak unless the settings are special...
This channel has become a go-to invaluable resource for my projects! Thank you for actually doing the science and not just being a glorified advertizer.
Another interesting dimension for your tests would be abrasion. Which materials would be best for uses like gears or shafts and bushings or cams? Do any of the materials self-lubricate as they wear? Your quantified analysis is very useful and unique in this hobby environment. Great job. Thank you. We are looking forward to more videos.
I use PETG for anything I use in the car and if there are parts that I expect to break and do not want flying parts all over the place.
PLA+ for everything else. I do not have conditions to print ASA
I used the sample PLA roll that came with my printer, then immediately switched to PETG. It's a bit tougher to dial in, but the thermal and UV resistance are good things in my opinion. And the warpage can be a good warning sign before complete failure, especially in printer parts. Oh, and small stringing can be easily burned off with a lighter.
i use petg when i need part to flex a little without snapping like i printed some hooks to keep my shed doors open they needed to bend a little to allow the door to pass under then click down to hold in place when i try pla it just snapped even when i annealed them petg is still going stong. i also notice with many materials exposed to the hsrsh Florida sun petg seems to hold up very well to uv and barely fade its color. Pla can fade quite a bit in the full sun and dark colors like browns and black absorb enough infrared that they wurp badly but lighter colors can survive I print quite a bit of abs in an enclosure made of pvc and mylar blankets and it works quite well for taller print you have to be sure to Orient it so the heat from the bed can flow up the print evenly. if it traps heat the you can get layer issues. The mylar blankets can keep it around 38c in chamber with no problem. Great work on your research.
Thank you for your rigorous studies!
I am ordering my first 3D printer. This video has been extraordinarily helpful for me in my expectation. Thanks, very(VERY) well done.
Yet another very useful video w/data generally not covered elsewhere. So grateful for your efforts.
Great job, as always! I use PLA and PET-G. ASA and ABS are no go for me due to their potential threat to health. I mostly use PLA and support it with PET-G when bending instead of cracking or higher temperature is need (like in-car hooks). I also use flex 40D material as a thin supporting layer (ie to create soft surface on a hand watch mount) or absorb a bit of vibration (like mounting something to my electric scooter).
Doesn't all materials pose a health risk due to their fume emissions?
And microplastics
Great information! Thank you for all the work you put into these tests! I just started using a 3D printer and have only used PLA. I plan to get some smaller spools of PETG and ABS soon to see how it works.
That review deserves you getting paid my friend, a very detailed review, just wow. Look no further for desiding which filament is the best. 10 star review. 👍👍👍👍
I appreciate your consistent testing! Thank you!
Great analysis, answered most of my concerns on choosing the right filament - as expected PLA is the best for 90% of use-cases
Really surprised to see PETG perform the way it did, its become my new go-to at present, though its tear as opposed to shear characteristic is desirable for the project I am working on. As you rightly say Stefan, there is no single ideal filament, only a "best for application".
Terrific video, you answered all the questions I've been having surrounding filament materials. I love the test apparatus you built.
Your test methodology seriously disadvantages the ASA layer adhesion. Using a bed slinger with fan on without a heater enclosure is worst case scenario for ASA. Would very much like to see a deeper look into ASA performance with it's unique requirements taken into consideration. It's a really high performance material when used correctly. UV resistance, high temp resistance, chemical resistance, impact resistance, less smell than ABS, and easier to print that polycarbonate.
J Z good comment - I have been trying to use the Prusament ASA this winter and haven’t been getting good results, especially with layer adhesion. Would also love to see some follow up on how to accommodate ASA with home 3D printers.
@@jarnold2000 I use a vented tent over my corexy. The heated bed is large and powerful and can keep the inside of the tent to about 40c which seems enough. 0 part cooling fan as well.
*repeats what Stephan says about ASA and doesn't notice the enclosure*
I use Devil Design uncolored ASA, and can't even print with it when the ambient temperature is under 30°C (bed adhesion/warping). I use a home made enclosure which is clad with insulated reflective foil, capable of reaching a toasty 65°C. When printed in a heated enclosure, I can't even bend similar parts by hand which snap with ease in PLA. Also part cooling is a no-go with ASA, even the hot-end fan can ruin the properties of ASA. The only downside I found (but may be fixable) is that ASA shrinks a lot more when cooling after printing, so holes and alignment keying can be a bit of a pain.
@@JasonZnack Very cool. I need to try to get to building an enclosure so some sort. Or at least wait until the weather warms up. :) Will try no cooling too.
As a total newcomer to the 3D printing hobby, this has been a really interesting lesson in the different qualities of different materials. I have been using standard PLA at about £20 per kilo from ERYONE and I find that it is a good all rounder and prints quite well. My idea of a good print may differ from others, but I am very happy with it. Thank you for taking the time to share your results with us.
i'm a cheapskate so i'll buy whatever is cheapest. never had trouble because of that, cheap ones are pretty good nowadays.
I use PETG for parts I put into my RC plane kits that I sell. Once tuned, PETG prints very well with no stringing. The only issue I get sometimes is the blobbing on the end of the nozzle. Due to the blobs I only print one part at a time to avoid a drip which ruins the part.
I have not used ASA and will consider doing some testing this spring.
Thanks for another great video!!
What's up with the concrete paver stones underneath the printers? Are they being used as some sort of vibration dampener?
Yes and the foam also isolates the printer from the desk to avoid resonances. Seriously THE best and cheapest you can do for your printer!
@@CNCKitchen Smart! I'll have to give that a try!
And in addition to that, the stone serves as fire protection.
I can vouch for a paving slab + foam as a huge upgrade too. Prints are better, printer is quieter. The foam doesn't have to be thick, I cut up a cheap yoga mat.
Thank you Stefan, Your video helped me alot with my Antenna block project. I'm printing an antenna holder for the Ubiquiti UAP outdoor wifi antenna. I ended up going with ASA in my final choice due to it's impact strength (it needs to be hurricane-proof), and be wind and bird resistant (wind and birds would twist the antenna to where the wifi would be decreased significantly) ASA also has superior resistance to UV, but also Temperature, and I also needed it to bear hot and humid weather as well as moisture.
Love these videos. I've actually used PLA before to 3d print model rocket nozzles, and as long as the burn times were short it held up pretty well. I only saw about 1mm of erosion over a 1 second burn, since the nozzles were single use anyway this wasn't a problem.
Might post the testing footage when I've got time to put together a video.
Thanks for showed us this research, I usually use PLA, and a couple of time ABS, but this is a bit difficult without an enclosure, ABS is getting always miss adhesion between layers.
That is why it is called "Hooke's law"
That needs to make it on a T-Shirt.
Thanks for this review. Very useful as usual. To answer your question, I print mostly with PLA. It's easy and surprisingly good. I print with PETG when I need better heat resistance, such as parts for my printer or the ones that goes in the car.
I have made a lot of things for my daily life including some chainsaw parts. I use PETG for everything now after some of my PLA parts warped in my car on a sunny day. Lately I've been doing some more detailed work with overhangs and bridges. I miss PLA's no hassle printability.
Somewhat new to 3d printing but have shifted from PLA to PETG because of the higher thermal resistance in the event I leave one of my prints in the car. I have not tried ABS or ASA yet. The one thing I really don't like about the PETG is the hard little globs that sometimes get jammed up in the print and either cause it to break free of the bed or cause the belt to skip and offset the layers from that point.
Thank you for these experiments, they help me a lot in my own experiments. I've been using eSUN PLA+ for my 3D printed planes for a while now and they seem to perform better than the other materials like Flashforge & Wanhao filaments that I use. It'll be cool if you can compare the eSUN line up of materials experimentally, considering they're pretty inexpensive for the quality that I find in them. I use the PLA+ for fuselage parts & ABS+ for parts that may get hot like motor mounts. I do crude testing for stiffness by hanging weights on printed cantilevers & do drop tests for checking impact strength resistance.
I used PLA with my Prusa i2. After upgrading it to a 2.5 with the PEI spring steel bed I never got good adhesion anymore and now use PET or PETG. It sticks like glue to the bed but you get more fine hairs (stringing) on the print.
What I have discovered with my BASF ASA filament is, that it degenerates the longer the material is in the hot nozzle. I improved the layer adhesion by printing my ASA parts as fast as possible. Have you tried different speeds for ASA, Stefan?
For someone just learning, this has been extremely informative. Thank you!
I would love to see different types of PLA tested. (Using example I know about) Like Fiberlogy has Impact PLA (Claims to have up to 800% compared to regular PLA and 50% compared to ABS more impact strenght) and HD PLA (special for annealing) and regular PLA's. I wonder how different they really are when tested, is it just marketing or there is some truth there.
Usually fiber infused materials provide more strength along the layers, but the layer adhesion suffers.
Making the weak point weaker and the strongest point stronger has very limited usecases.
I'm living in Nordic weather and minus degrees are normal during winter, down to -30C. I'd love to see you test these materials with cold temps also! Another point to add - impact strength of some plastics is increased when they have absorbed some water. I know this from RC hobby and propellers. Running them after winter, when they've dried out, they are very brittle. The trick is to put them into hot water and stay there for 12+ hours. So I hope you could take on cold test and hygroscopic (after printing) test of these materials.
I stick to PETG since it prints amazingly and is stable
Useful testing and comparison. I am currently making GoPro parts with PETG made in Australia where I live and I am very pleased with the results. One quirk, I can sit alonside the machine while I am printing PETG and I cannot detect any odour at all. Using the VisionMiner adhesive on a Creality glass bed and I have no problems removing the finished parts after it cools down a bit.
Great video as always
I use PLA when it is a indoor item
I use ASA when it is a outdoor item (and I love the surface of the prints :-) )
I use PETG when the item is a practical item, there you have some ware on the item. more stringing but very usabil
oh and mostly from filament PM, i think there quality is in Pruca league.
Thanks for sharing :-)
Brilliant analysis with a balanced interpretation of the measured results.
I like ABS because I can split difficult parts, print them separately, and then glue them together with ABS glue.
Try Aceton to glue...this Weld two parts direct.
Is ABS different to these three?
Wow Stefan, ich kann nur sagen deine Videos haben wirklich eine durchgängige Profi Qualität! Die Mühe die du dir mir deinen Experimenten machst, da kommt hier kaum wer ran. Immer wieder sehr interessant! Ich hätte nicht erwartet dass PLA doch noch so gut abschneidet! (Hitze test mal außen vor xD)
Vielen Dank! Da bist Du nicht der Einzige, der PLA unterschätzt.
I love how in the impact test that the ASA didn't even break all the way through
That was the most awesome video about FDM materials I have ever seen. Your work is really meaningful.
was listening to this video while doing other things. but then "for example, if you're crashing your quadcopter" was like awaking from a dream with instant focus :D
You might want to try a double walled enclosure for ABS/ASA. Or an insulated one. You can also make a heated one with a space heater, a duct, a fan and a controller to exhaust the heat to keep it at a constant temperature.
that enclosure was HUGE for the printer. it should of been way smaller. lol.
8:29 why dont you make them solid ?
This is fantastic. Well executed and documented. As an engineer I really appreciate your methods. I have been using PLA+ which has a slightly higher softening temperature and am trying out PETG soon. I have issues with ABS/ASA because I live in a cold area and don't have an enclosure. I have had multiple prints fail because of bad layer adhesion with ABS.
I would recommend you make a closed space for your printer, you can support it with some glass sheets and some metal profiles, the key is not to lose temperature due to your icy environment
Bro, being an engineer doesn't make your appreciation for his methods any more valuable, I know it might be hard to grasp, but most engineers, and especially the pretenxious ones, are really shitty at knowing their stuff, trust me, I'm an engineer 😂
Very well presented and highly informative as always. Thanks Stefan. I mostly use PLA but for mechanical parts it's PETG all from @3dprintz. I do have other filaments for other projects too.
Yee 3dprintz filament is brilliant!
Just bought a FLSUN V400 (no enclosure) and the first build was absolute great with PLA, but I’m struggling with layer adhesion with ABS.
Fantastic as always! Thank you for this information -- very useful and informative!
Great Info. Tq very much for all the effort taken to give a good comparison. My experience do not leave any "built product" in a parked car for too long with temp reaching 43 deg C and does not last long in a water filled aquarium (unless built dense)
I would like to see some testing on some TPU hooks
look back in his videos, has already been done ;)
dr_BD I can’t seem to find it
Didn't test any TPU, yet.
Yes I'd also like to see some TPU hook tests, it's the perfect printable material for holding sport cams & some other things on quadcopters. Its resistance to heat makes it great to hold video transmitters without melting.
Only once I've had a TPU part in a crash fail from the layers separating a little bit because it was 'wet' when printed. I just took a soldering iron and melted the seam back together. But now I dry all my filaments and store them in air tight tubs with silica gel beads, dry TPU prints look so good and are so strong.
Printed a monitor vesa mount today.
Put a 27" monitor on it.
2 hours later the Mount snapped and the monitor fell into the camp chair and cushions I had setup just in case.
I printed it in PLA.
I printed it in an orientation that didn't require supports but it reduced the strength. It snapped between layers.
Personally I'm still sticking mostly to PLA due to being relatively new to printing. Expanding to more materials once I get more skilled :) PETG is interesting me at least.
Try it
Today's PETG is super simple.
Especially if you have a decent printer like the Prusa, standart settings do the trick.
Press start and go to bed. No issue. Perfect surfaces, robust prints.
If you're printing PETG using Cura, make sure to up the temps to something around 240c for the hotend. If you have one where the PTFE tube goes into the hotend, you'll need to get an all metal one for it too.
That would only apply with something like an Ender 3 though; the Prusa wouldn't need modifications... maybe to slicer settings thouhg.
@@moth.monster idk i'm priting petg with 225c and it seems to work better for my filament. increasing the temperature that much causes more stringing. the recommended range on the sticker of my roll is 220~240. although i did get a bit of underextrusion when i was printing with 0.32mm layers that ruined some practical prints.
In your impact strength test the noch has Go be on the oppositionelle side, so its handled in the „Charpy test“
Thank you, great comparison. But based on my experience and your video -- the specific material brand/vendor matters. All the PLAs I have tried in Canada( beside the Wood PLA which is not regular PLA) are weaker than PETGs. Also, PETGs I've used are significantly more wear resistant than PLA. The spindle mount I have printed with PLA material for my CNC3020 500w spindle has cracked and passed away in ~4 months because of all mechanical impacts and vibration. The same mount printed in PETG works for ~1.5 years without any issues.
How about testing how well they stick to each other? I bought a pallette 2 pro and I curious as to which plastics are totally incompatible or really compatible.
Also it might be interesting to engineer the prints... for instance using stiffer high strength materials in better locations to get maximum moment of inertia and use cheaper materials as the web.
With the Pallette you should probably stick to one material (PLA/PVA should work as well) because the materials go through one nozzle. Purging between materials requires way more material than just switching color.
@@CNCKitchen I was trying PVA and having good adhesion on the splice with ABS... but then I saw a video showing PETG as a bond breaker at the support interface when printing with PLA.
In multi-colour printing I currently have a very nice translucent red PETG and a black ABS I was going to print in the same part and this is why I pose the idea. Using the splice I can stick anything to anything but layer to layer would be a different story.
If only the colour changes could occur without the expense/complexity of a good multinozzle setup or the huge purge block of a single nozzle!
I tested multi-material prints on a Prusa MMU2S.
PLA and PETG won't stick. They do work great as support material for each other (100% interface layer).
However, you can basically pull your print layers apart with your hands.
The impurities which remain in the nozzle destroy your layer adhesion.
You need a crazy amount of purge volume to actually clean your nozzle.
This basically makes the MMU unit from Prusa useless for me.
I still think they should call it a "multi colour unit" and not a "multi material unit".
@@michaelschaub Hmmmmm... this is what I was afraid of. You almost need a table things that stick and things that don't and THEN choose the properties you want to exploit.
@@someguy2741 There are specific support materials out there for PLA and ABS/ASA and Nylon. For PETG I found nothing when I searched last year. However, PLA suprisingly perfect for that job.
So the topic "what does not stick to each other" can be handeled.
More difficult will be the question what sticks to each other.
However, it should be a rare case that you need one part made out of two materials.
You could address that directly in the design process. Don't just cut it and print two flat surfaces of different materials and hope for layer adhesion.
Better design joints directly in the part, like you would do it in woodworking.
Also, add some holes for screws if you can. I'm holding two pieces of PETG with some Epoxy and two 12*3mm screws together, works great.
Would love to see a nylon filament done in this
Uber fidly. You need to temperature and humidity control your filament - even while printing. Your printer needs to be in an enclosed heated area, and you need to use your spare hot end....
I mainly use PETG as I can have it for nearly as cheap as PLA and I read somewhere it is UV resistant,. But I don't know if a UV-resistance test can be doable? Maybe with a light for nail polish?
A nail polish UV light is probably too narrow in spectrum to get a proper result. You'd properly need more professional equipment, or just place a batch outside.
It would also be dependent on the colour of the sample. Different dyes will drastically effect UV resistance. Different dyes will fade differently so you would need to decide whether you are most concerned about colour retention or strength.
For strength you would need to compare clear filaments I suppose? I think this would need to be placed outside for an extended period. So its not terribly practical unless you want to wait a year for the results :p
The good news is if you really need UV resistance you could spray paint or clear coat the item and get the results without worrying about the filament.
Results at 14:10
Sounds odd but I have discovered that cleaning the filament before printing makes layer adhesion much better. Perhaps some sort of oils form during manufacturing? Not sure. I wipe mine with rubbing alcohol on a rag as I re-spool a new spool onto an empty spool. Give it a try. You’ll be surprised at the amount of gunk on the filament!
Great video, very informative, surprised that PLA was so much stronger than the others!
Just a suggestion, I’m watching this video for a school project and would have loved a chart at the end summarizing all the data and values you got
It's available on Amazon*
*Sometimes
My chosen filament is ASA for outdoor applications. I produce Paintball equipments and the rigidity and outdoor specs, make it perfect!
Hard to print for sure, just took me about 3 months to get it very good!
Anyone else watching who doesn't even have a 3d printer😂😂
I can't remember if you've ever performed these tests on Taulman's Alloy 910, but I'd be really interested to see how it compares when rigorously tested. It's my go-to nylon type material, prints nicely when very dry, is lighter than PLA, stiffer than other nylons and tougher than anything I've ever been able to throw at it
this is my go-to for RC offroad car parts and suspension. so much better than PETG.
Charpy machine! That brings back memories from college. Also, I didn't see a pretty graph for the thermal test. (I was screen-shoting* each.)
Materials engineer here, even thou the tests are not standard, they are pretty decent to compare the materials. I would prefer petg hands down for most applications. Petg is a very sweet spot of additive manufacturing filaments. It is watertight with 1.75 mm wall thickness, can handle temperatures up to 75-80 degrees, ductile at low strain rates, moderate fracture strength, moderate impact strength, stiffness is a bit low but when you get a wall thickness of around 3mm, its very stiff. It is a very sweet material to 3d print structural parts.
why do you like it over asa?
If only peek wasn't so pricey. And easier to print lol. I wish u tested nylon and pc too!
Nice video, really would like to see what something like an 80-100°C chamber does to ABS, but i guess PLA will remain my go-to for now since getting a really hot chamber is such a hassle and on top of that PLA seems to deal with the biggest mechanical issue of 3d printing, layer adhesion, so well.
You're here for 7:49
PETG is my go to filament I don’t have to worry about temperatures unless the part is mounted in high temperature environments (engine bay) but for that I use CF-PA.
And as always Great video!
Such a good and educational video! Thanks a lot! I'll try imitating this :D.
Stop! Don't leave this video!
If you're like me and just want someone to say "x is the strongest filament," abandon that cause and watch this video! I did (at 2x speed) and can say it'll answer that question in the detail required that you didn't know was necessary!
The tests and experiments contained herein were excellent.
Maybe because the concept was new to me, the impact test astounded me at it's simplicity of design. I wasn't sure if this was an industry standard or his own invention but I knew that the results, regardless, were accurate.
The 3 point test was scientifically exact and accurate as well.
The thing I found interesting in regards to "x = best" was that each filament may serve better in different applications and you could potentially use different filaments in the same machine depending on what stress is where.
Well done video. Subbed!
Proverbs 27:17
the original prusa® i3™ mk3™ made by Prusa® labs™ by Joseph™ Prusa® using PRUSAMENT™ by Prusa® Labs™ Approved by Joseph™ Prusa® Using original Prusa®Slicer™ by Joseph® Prusa™
a few comments, firstly look into decreasing the size of the enclosure to retain more heat. Second perhaps try reflectix to insulate the chamber. Lastly look at trying different colors of filaments and how strength is affected. Oddly, i hear pink is quite strong. I would be interested in hearing what your results are!
Jesus Christ I’m literally 4 minutes into this thing and he hasn’t gotten to the content yet...
Update: scratch that 6 minutes and still hasn’t got to the content...
I've been trying to print with PETG recently and I've found it to be far more brittle than PLA+.
Maybe I'm not printing it hot enough (240°C) but it shatters rather than plastically deforms as yours seems to.
My printer is the Prusa i3 MK3. I have only used PLA and PETG. I prefer the PETG, as it is less brittle. The ASA filament looks interesting, so I may try it sometime. Thanks for your analysis of filaments.
Steige grad beim 3D drucken ein, danke für das tolle Video Stefan! :)
Hmm one thing I feel that may benefit parts that have the clean breaks like that is they can be glued back together where as the stretching would ruin the part.
Living in Florida, I default to PETG because of the heat. Nothing I make is regularly outdoors or in the car, but if power gets knocked out or I do forget something in the car I can rest easy knowing the heat won't warp it at all. However, revisiting this video several years later, I do see that I have discounted PLA too much. I will start using them more interchangeably, I greatly enjoy the ease of printing with PLA.
Question. During the impact tests. For the samples that don't just break completely free on impact. I wonder how much of the energy lost that is measured could be due to the dragging of the hammer over the remaining sample. Probably not much but it was just a thought.
I mostly use overture easy pla because it’s easy to print with, but I just ordered some Voxelab ASA-CF that I’m excited to try out.