If I'm not mistaken, the biodegradability of PLA is tricky. If you put it in the field, it will never change. It's only biodegradable in an industrial composter. CNC kitchen made a video showcasing all of this,
Never is a long time! 😉 It will eventually break down, but it isn’t as fast or as easy as many people think. Industrial composting will produce much quicker results for sure.
I know the video of CNC Kitchen and it does not right to PLA. PLA is biodegradable, but it will take a long time when you throw it in your own compost heap. When temperatures reach between 70 and 90 degrees Celsius and cut to fine particles, it will degrade in a couple of days. We produce a very hard type of PLA, which is used for traffic signs and put on sides of buildings. You want those products to last at least 20 years. When a traffic sign is broken, and parts come into nature, you want that to decompose. That is exactly what PLA does.
Common PLA does breaks down fairly quickly under some environmental conditions…. Strong UV destroys it in about a year, it loses all structural strength and crumbles into small fragments. Constant exposure to water seems to accelerate this. I can send you samples if you want.
That's because "biodegradable" means that something will break down in a few weeks or months. For that definition no, PLA isn't biodegradable if it isn't in an industrial facility. But PLA does break down over time, it's just in the span of years, not weeks. Which is fine if it's a landfill environment where it will stay there for years
Yes check! So if you need 5 normal sized parts printed only and you never plan to use that material again, you dont buy a 1kg reel and let it degrade for storing it for 3 years. Buy 500g or 250g. Learn from my mistake!!
Tip for printing cookie cutters: put plastic wrap over the cookie cutter, that way the print never makes contact with the food. Not my original idea, I saw it somewhere else.
@@ianc8165this has actually been tested and th guidance is revised! As long as you don't print geometries that you can't get a sponge into 3d printed cookie cutters are completely safe
I use my printers for functional, mechanical parts and prototyping (yes, I did live the Benchy-life in the beginning), but I've experimented with so many filaments and have found myself using 3 filaments - PLA+ for 85%, PETG for heat-sensitive parts, and general TPU for softer "rubber" parts. I've found that my 3 goto filaments are IIID Max PLA+ and PETG, Polyterra PLA+ (I don't use PM PETG because of the paper spools and my drier box operations), and SunLU's TPU.
I didn't even know how to use any CAD software when I got a 3d printer. Now I can whip up most anything I need and have it printed in day. Personally I've gone over to the darkside and started using ABS more and more, it's really not that hard to work with unless you're printing something that's fairly large or don't own a cardboard box to stick over your printer.
For heat sensitive parts, you might even consider PET. Not PETG, PET without the glycol, since the glycol in PETG actually reduces its melting temperature.
I print PETG directly to glass and have no difficulty in getting it to release. I found the answwer is to allow it to cool completely and the differential thermal expansion between glass and PETG makes it almost always a case of simply picking the model up without any need for tools at all. What I have found is that printing directly to glass requires the glass to be scrupulously clean, any grease at all (fingerprints etc.) can cause bed adhesion issues.
You were lucky :) I had two sheets of glass ruined by PETG. One was plain cut to size window glass, the other was carborundum coated FLSun. The PETG stuck so well to it that the object broke off pieces of the glass.
I know I'm 10 months late to the party, but I wanted to say thank you so much for this video. I picked up my first 3D printer a couple of days ago and I'm still getting use to the idea that I don't have to run out and buy or order "this" or "that" online. I can just make it. That's mind blowing to me, but it also sent me down a rabbit hole of understanding the materials I'm using for the items intended purpose. Your video has demystified so much about filaments. And settled a worry I had about my printer choice. I went with a Bambu A1 with the AMS attachment as my first printer. I was worried that because of this choice I wouldn't be able to print durable parts for outdoor use as I thought ABS and ASA were my only two options. Thanks to you, I'll be ordering a couple spools of PETG. Thanks again!
Congratulations!!! Welcome in, this is such an amazing industry and hobby! You chose an excellent machine, and it’s super awesome that you took the time to comment! Thank you!
I once ordered a roll of PLA for only $7 on Amazon. When it arrived, I found out why it was $7 - turns out the roll was only 250 grams instead of the usual one kilogram. Suited me fine because I don’t print orange very often lol
Don't they say how much is on the roll? I have been buying PLA for over 5 years and have NEVER not seen the amount if you read the complete description. Just sayin'.
@@3dtexan890 they do, but charging 50$ Canadian for a 750g spool is predatory, and sometimes it’s not the manufacturer doing the listing and they’ll just put it in the keyword soup that is the item’s title on amazon and hide it in the technical details deep in the description. Lots of dark patterns and not so moral choices
This is such an undiscovered gem of a youtube channel, the information presented here was top notch and in a fantastic format. Instant subscription from me!
I have a feeling your channel is about to get more popular. I found you from a recommendation from YT and I'm not disappointed! Fantastic video and very informative!
PLA is absolutely recyclable! Plenty of companies use recycled PLA feedstock (rPLA), and there's a large influx of home recycling products currently 😊 Researching it is my job, we're currently up to 4 cycles without effecting conductive Performance, 7 recycling cycles with no change in the chemical properties, after which it can't be extruded, but can still be used in injection moulding, fill etc.
@@LoyalMoses absolutely! DOI is "10.1021" 😊 That is the paper on recycling PLA from post-consumer waste sources, the paper on long-term recycling from virgin feedstocks (aka new Filament/pellets) is yet to be published as we're still concluding the work 😊 All of our research can be found through the authors list
All my printers are in enclosures all are ducted to an exhaust port on the window of my office. Spent a lot of time designing manifolds and backflow prevention valves, and I have to regenerate desiccant constantly due to the moisture coming in, but it's worth it. I work almost exclusively with ASA, and the machines are running 24/7. The stuff is the best.
@@LoyalMoses not op but toaster oven in the backyard works well, if you want a no fuss setup, you can use the desiccant part of tech ingredient's air conditioner basically you use a pair of aquarium pumps to spray [just enough water mixed with calcium chloride (snow removal salt) to make it liquid] in a tube with a fan pushing air against the flow, it will dry up air even as a liquid, and the other part is the same but you push it through a black hose behind a glass sheet an that will heat it up enough that it releases water outside. that is way less electricity since you're using the sun to do most of the work. if you're somewhere with no sun you might be able to just heat the calcium chloride and water mixture with something like an instant hot water heater
1:10 you didn’t mention the air humidity in the room where you have all your filament, that makes a lot of difference, in my room it’s 60-65 by default all year round, on the street 70 so all of a sudden PLa becomes very hygroscopic
That's my problem too. We live close to the ocean, so I run a dehumidifier spring and summer, until we turn on the heat in the fall. The humidity goes from 50-70 over night, that is if the dehumidifier fills up when I'm asleep. During the warmer months, I get about a month of printing a spool before it absorbs too much moisture.
@@justincuvelier9569I have to dry the filament or the finished part is brittle. I do my best to be there when the print finishes, so that the roll can be removed and stored as quickly as possible. The printed parts stand up fine once they are finished. I also print with a ziplock bag around the roll, with silica packs in the bag. That really helps keep the filament dry for quite a while.
@@dmonhuntr75 thank you for sharing. that helps a lot. what do you think is a good printer for new person who wants to be serious but doesn't need to upgrade their printer after a few months or so.
Polyterra is my goto PLA (love the matte finish!) and I have printed dozens of rolls and seen no problems with my nozzles wearing (I haven't changed my Revo since I got it last November!)!
@@Kieran28 Yes. There are disposable types and types you can dry out and reuse. The one I use changes colors when wet. It has a built in wall plug that powers a weak heating element to dry it back out. Just swap it with a dry one and plug in the wet one. I think the air circulation for drying it out could be better to make it more efficient, but they work. There is a lab grade one called Drierite. That also changes colors. To dry it out I believe the directions call to spread it in a thin layer on a baking sheet and put it in the oven at a certain temperature if I recall correctly. I bought some of the drierite a long long time ago for a project before 3d printers were a thing. I think I still have a jar of it someplace. I'm sure there are others, but that's the two I have experience with except for disposable packets that are part of packaging. Ironically, ended up using Drierite at a job a good while after I bought some for my project. It involved draining tanks of liquid resin into a hopper then into a bag. The dessicant was used on an intake tube to keep the air in the hopper dry that displaces the volume as the it drained. Dry air was hooked directly to the big tank.
This is why I have started putting even my enclosed printers that I print ASA on in a secondary enclosure with an vent out the window that has an inline charcoal filter. So even what I am putting outside, is a touch cleaner.
I started watching this clip when it first came out but I didn't have the time to watch it all. Now, with the holidays, I was able to finish it and I must say I'm pleasantly impressed by the quick, down to Earth, no BS answers! Subscribed :)
All the recycling stuff is totally bunk because the recycler won't have any idea what material it is when you throw it into the bin, so its always going into the land-fill from an automated sorting system. I know we want to feel like we're being environmentally friendly, but we're totally adding to the green-washing of plastic usage and wish-cycling by throwing into the recycling bin (whether we called them or not) and we need to be cognizant of that.
thank you for the great info. I look forwarded to checking out your other videos. I was really just going to check out the info about PLA and Petg, but watched until the end due to how easy to listen to and knowledgeable you are.
This was great. So much useful information. I've just bought my first filament drying box and it has been a game changer for my ASA prints. More content like this please!
Re: VOCs and other emissions from 3D prints According to studies I've read, the best material in this category is PETG followed by PLA, however there really needs to be industry standards for this because there are now hundreds of 3D printing formulations for both polymers, and any of those additives can affect what is emitted into the air. Every manufacturer has their "secret sauce", and we really don't know what they're putting into their materials in their attempts to be competitive. It's also important to consider particulate emissions, because PLA does have some of that while ABS/ASA has a lot more along with the styrene emissions. This is good to know if you or anyone you know is affected by asthma. If you're worried about particulates, stick to PETG.
@@knifeyonline There is so much more to it than that, the mechanical properties are not that simple. There is heat resistance, layer adhesion, abrasion resistance, impact resistance and creep is all superior in PETG compared to most PLA+/pro.
awesome vid thanks for info. just got a creality K1C for my first printer haveing issues with the extruder jamming here and there but with through my first spool making benchies and fidgets lol.
Weed eater string is made out of nylon and some are modified to be extremely durable and stable. All my plain nylon prints are made out of round 0.065 inch trimmer line and if you look hard enough or ask your gardener you can find 1, 3, 5 even 10lbs spools. Unfortunately the color selection is extremely limited but extremely cheap and consistent. Also 0.065in is 1.6mm which is fine you just gotta tune extrusion rates and retractions.
@@LoyalMosesI was under the impression that it's exceedingly expensive for this purpose... almost seems smarter to use filament for string trimming lmao. Harbor Freight has the 100ft for $6. It's 1/5 of a lb. So figure almost $70/kg
Great video. I am a complete newbie at this. My only experience with printing is with laser printers for paper. I just ordered a new Qudi Pro printer and it is supposed to be shipped mid May. I also just subscribed to your channel. I'm trying to learn as much as I can before I start playing with this printer and I can't wait to get started! Thanks.
Thank you so much for the very valuable knowledge you are sharing with us, it is extremely useful and I've discovered and learnt so many things on your channel - had a quick scroll through your channel and after watching couple if videos I immediately subscribed. With the amount of knowledge you have, I think that it will be very helpful to all of us if could do a detailed video specifically about filaments and sharing your knowledge about them, comparing heat resistance, uv resistance, overall strength, lifespan indoors vs outdoors, toxicity, and proposing ideal uses. After 3d printing for 5 years with PLA, TPU and ABS I'm in the search to find the best all around filament that will do for all common indoor and outdoor uses (art and functional prints) even if the price is premium. You print it and forget it type of thing - have no worries that it will break down after 2 years outdoors, will warp or delaminate cause of constant humidity - contact with water and other common conditions. I recently upgraded to Bambu X1C so looking around for the best all rounder really. Thank you so much again Mr LM and Mrs LM, fantastic job!
Thank you for the VERY kind words! 💜 That’s a great idea, I’ll add that to our short list of content. I agree it would be helpful to have a filament guide on when and how to use all of the different types. Thank you again, it’s wonderful to read comments like this.
Mostly the filament because it requires low moisture to print properly. But, printed parts definitely absorb moisture, especially nylons, they even require moisture absorption to be more flexible.
@@LoyalMosescan say similar results, & I base on experience from 2015 to present. Out of thousands of spools, can say maybe 3-4 at the most of bad results.
@@LoyalMoses My experiences: with multiple 'cheap' brands: it is hit or miss. Sometimes I have like 10 spools without problems but other times it is like 2 out of 3 spools have thicker and thinner parts. Clogging up extruders and even had damaged parts on the printers with it. And still many times here it is around 15€ per KG/spool. Sometimes it is only like one thick spot (2-3mms) in a spool but it can cost not only the print but also the parts and labour on the printer. I now have a selection-set of brands I use, somewhat more expensive in most cases but I know they are stable enough for draft-prints. Some of the other brands-spools are apart from the printers and I only use short parts of those for use in my 3D pens now. About the price: keep in mind that filaments like PLA weight more in volume then with ABS for example. So: PLA is maybe cheaper per KG but can cost a lot more for the same volume of print then with ABS. Besides in many cases needing less volume with ABS or PETG then with PLA for the same (functional) part.
After I discover your channel a week ago my mind is just blowing up. I thought I know about filaments but some details that you said in this video is make more clear my knowledge. Keep doing this hard work!!!! 👏🏼thank you !!!
Is it possible to print ABS or ASA (or anything) with the printer outdoors? I have a room, but with no ventilation and I want to try printing other materials than PLA or PETG. Will an enclosed printer like the P1S or X1C be able to work being outside (in a varanda)?
Yes, they can be outside if the temperature and humidity are similar to indoors. Loss of heat within the enclosure will definitely cause printing problems.
@@PhotoMakersMy open bed printer is in an outdoor shed and prints ok in winter where the temperature inside the shed is often around 5 degrees or lower. I have to heat the shed to 7 degrees centigrade before starting. Any colder and the printer won't function (most electronics don't function well below this temperature). I get an error. So you may need to take a hair dryer out to it to heat up the electronics until they will allow the printer to turn on it's own heaters and you may also need to put a insulated box over the printer in the coldest months, but I would say it's always doable if you manage the potential problems
What a great video - all the information is there without any of the fluffery buffery - the recommendations are seamless, and I've learned an awful lot from just one video. You & Mrs LM have got yourself a new subscriber!
19:47 I'm glad I watched this. I'm in an apartment with a two year old and my printer is in his closet. I figured a Carbon/HEPA filter would be sufficient but I guess I'll just stick with PLA.
Wow! I didn't realize that glow-in-the-dark PLA was abrasive. I'd better use my tungsten steel nozzle to print all the Halloween stuff I was planning. Great timing 👍 Regarding the ASA poisoning, yep those carbon filters take away a lot of the smell but don't capture the nasty chemicals. I have a high volume fan sucking the air out of a window whenever printing things other than PLA.
I've been printing since 2016, had a spool I kept for many many years that I later used to compare modern PLA and noticed how much stronger and way less smell today's plastics are than some 10+ years ago
its worth noting that degradation of the plastic over as long a period as 10 years is not negligible, so that is not necessarily a fair comparison. Also, if you didn't dry it beforehand, it almost certainly had absorbed some water, which would effect both smell and performance
I'm a new subscriber and I really dig your channel. Just got to leave one comment/ correction. ALL filaments give off VOC's. I'm not a chemist nor do I claim to know more than others, there is another RUclipsr that did test this and all filaments gave off VOCs. I don't know if some are more toxic than others and I don't even know the definition of a VOC. But I would not be printing in a closed room. Leave it outside in a workshop
You mentioned advantages of enclosures and heated enclosures but not how hot it must be to make a significant difference. Is a 45c plexiglas box any good or a 55c Chanell plastic "green house" better, I even saw a 100c plywood one, what temp is enough to make the effort worth it?
I learned very quickly that carbon filters merely remove the odor, not the VoCs from the air. Resin printing made this magnitudes worse and quickly apparent. so PSA: carbon filters don't work for VoCs, the thing that actually hurts you.
I disagree, carbon filters do remove VoC's from the air and are very good at it. This, though, depends on certain variables, such as volume of VoC's, exposure, air-flo and type/size of carbon filter/particulates and most important of all, how often the filters are replaced.
@@chrissavill8713 Well, millions of users who use resin printers will simply hold empirical data, as well as countless lab findings that suggest tiny carbon filters are insufficient for the volume of VoCs released. This isn't an opinion debate. It's fucking science. You need a near industrial scale system to handle the many types of VoCs 3D printing exposes you too.
I might of missed the hydroscopic rating of ASA also Nylon how UV resistant is it? I'm wanting to use it in a marine environment (On my boat) to keep aluminum separate from other metals, also ASA for light parts inside the boat to save weight
Where I live we have "normal" trash marked as energy waste so those go to burning places where they make heat for city area. We have separated bins for metal, glass, paper, and bio. I have put supports from PLA and PETG prints for energy waste.
I originally was a bit nervous about this video when I saw the title. There are far too many feeding the "misinformation" train... but mostly because there has been way too much hype about 3D printing being "safe". Anytime you are heating up plastics to the glass transition or melt point, there are going to be volatiles released. This is NOT some kind of Star Trek replicator... these are machine tools. Just as you would not sprat paint something or run a grinder, saw, or sander in your bedroom (at least not without ventilation and dust removal) you should not run a 3D printer without similar cautions. Thoroughly learn AND respect the process and the precautions and you will have a very long and enjoyable experience. Slack off at your own peril! That being said, an excellent presentation of information and the intricacies of the various filaments. I wish more creators would take the time to present the pros and cons in an accurate fashion. The world of 3D printing is a fascinating place with many wonderful creations and opportunities, but it is NOT, nor has it ever been a "toy". There will be consequences for engaging and even though they are pretty easy to mitigate and render relatively safe for operation, there are many who will get overconfident or less informed about the process and chemistries and may end up paying a heavy price for their inattention to the details. Hanging a filter on the side of a printer is NOT generally sufficient for those VOCs if there is not sufficient air flow and positive ventilation and extraction of fumes from the operational area.
I started with PETG and TPU for strong funtional parts and drone accessories. I just started messong with PLA for decorative stuff. I struggle with getting my PLA prints lookong as good as my PETG and TPU.
@@LoyalMoses I figured out I'm only having issues with white PLA. After some digging I found out a lot of people struggle with white filament because of the levels of titanium oxide.
$8 filament? Hell yes. I'll take my chance on that all day. Perfect stuff for testing and iterative prototyping where you are not concerned with quality as much and need to pump out a bunch of test pieces. From my experience, even the ultra cheap stuff is good enough for that these days.
Then you should try the key words "Trimmer line round 0.065 commercial" you should be able to find a 5lbs spool of nylon for 35usd thats 2.25kgs of nylon. Yes it works thats what I use for my around the house stuff.
@@Guardian_Arias that is a great idea lol. How durable are tools and materials you print using that? What printer are you using to achieve the results you use it for? What are some common items you have used and how has it worked for you? I am curious as I have ideas and am looking into buying one, but want to identify best filament to use for my cause. Thanks for sharing.
Nylon in an enclosure... You are literally sponsored by Polymaker and didn't mention how easily their Nylon prints not only without an enclosure, but even with a barely heated bed. Honestly with modern extruders (read "capable with TPU") Polymaker PolyMide CoPA is probably the next easiest thing to print after PLA. (but yes, it is VERY hygroscopic) Also for the recycling, I know here (Australia) no one accepts ANY 3D printed material for recycling, because they can't know for sure what type of material it is, or what additives it has.
I know glow in the dark filament will break down a brass nozzle, but does it break down a stainless steel nozzle? Or do I have to get a hardened steel nozzle and gears for my P1S?
Stainless or hardened steel nozzle will work great! But the upgraded gears is a good idea, if you plan to print this and other abrasives! And, thank you for the question!
Also, brass nozzles usually contain trace amounts of lead, so anything printed with a brass nozzle can't really be considered food safe, even if the filament is.
I’ve heard this before, but have never confirmed it from a reputable source. Would love to test prints for trace amounts of lead, would be interesting! Thank you for the comment!
@@LoyalMosesyeah thjs feels like some California prop 65 stuff and I'm done taking my home state seriously 😂 Various fruits and veggies arr even labeled as "potentially causing reproductive harm" or whatever due to lead content
Recyclable, What Filiments can be recyled at home. Many are trying to re use fillliment. I know you mention recycle as in Turn in to a center and or refil, but with devices slowly emerging and diys is it going to be more possible?
I haven't seen any real at home / DIY filament recycling systems that are going to return filament back to a quality reusable product - most are janky and of course they cannot reconstitute the filament properly, so it just becomes worse each time that is done. I would really like to see someone make an affordable, quality home extruder for recycling filament though!
Nice video. I’ve been at it for 11 years and decided to buy a new printer now and started bouncing around videos to see what’s all changed. One thing I can tell you I do for ABS when printing on a glass bed (maybe with a thick capton layer) is take my scrap ABS from supports and mix it with some acetone to make a glue that’s the same color for the next print. This ABS glue holds it down great and keeps it out of the trash.
19:15 The first time I printed ABS, it was a cheap brand, very fumy, I was printing in a room adjacent to the bedroom. I woke up the next day with a "sense of impending doom"... I never knew what that was supposed to mean, until that day. I could feel, deep in my lungs, something heavy. Went outside for about 10 minutes and was feeling better. Went back inside and I could smell ALL the fumes I guess built up slowly. I didn't even print a lot. Maybe 2 hours, 2-3 meters of filament. That was something else.
Love PLA+ for tabletop terrain. Its a bit more anoying to clean up, especialy with small supports n stuff but its so much more resilient than normal pla for hobby handling. a buddy of mine prints in standard pla constantly and his terrain breaks every now and then and i never had any issues of that kind with my pla+.
As far as printing items for use around food. Could the objects be coated safely? There are many wood finishing products that require special handling during application (especially Lacquer) that once cured, are okay for food usage. How close to "hand-wash" safe or even "Dish-Washer" or safe could you get on various filaments if a coating were applied? Can you recommend any such coatings?
You mentioned PLA, PLA+, PLA Pro and PLA HD. What about PolyLite PLA? Is it any different, or is that just a Polymaker moniker? Next, when we say it's hygroscopic, is the plastic really absorbing moisture, or is it that the moisture just clings to the surface of the plastic? Many plumbing items are made of ABS. Lastly, amazingly, that Qidi X Plus 3 is still only $650! As always, thanks for the great lessons.
PolyLite is just their naming convention for regular PLA! It does absorb moisture and it will make the filament on the spool brittle and you’ll hear the moisture sizzling when printing if you have that issue.
In the Pacific NW my house hovers at 60% relative humidity and I have to keep all the filament in bags with desiccant packs and humidity monitors. 15% in the bag works well. Seeing all those open rolls on your shelf starts to make me panic. Ha
As a converted nylonganggang printer…Nylon that is glass or CF filled can be printed without an enclosure IF….IF you have a stable ambient temperature in the room. With that said, I’ve printed open air as low as 67F with no issues. But there were no drafts or temperature swings
Wow Amazing. You're introducing the ABS segment and you mention whether we think we can or can't, and my response to that was "More like, why?" Next question.... If I could sub twice.
How do you mitigate the toxins/ASA fumes in your setup? I know you say to print in a well-ventilated space, what did you do to increase ventilation? How do you isolate a room from the main living space of a home? Thanks!
Open window, a fan, cross breeze. Something like that. Without knowing more about your environment I can't really be specific. I know some people have printed in their garage below their living space and found that after some time they could smell the ASA. So whatever you can do to create as much fresh air as possible, but also keeping temperatures stable.
I'm completely new to 3D printing and haven't bought a unit yet as I am trying to figure out which one will be best for me. I have a hot tub repair business and am thinking I could 3D print some maybe hard to find or discontinued items. I am gathering that I would likely need to use ABS, ASA or Nylon but what if the items are to be submerged in the hot tub water? They will need to be UV resistant and handle being submerged in chemical rich environment. Which filament would work best? Secondarily I do have some other ideas unrelated to hot tubs for a side project or invention I am wanting to build but again, it would be around water but not submerged in it. These items would be mostly protected from water but would need to endure some water getting splashed on them. I am probably leaning towards a Bambu 3D printer but not sure which model will work best for me? Only wanting to spend between $600-1000 and am not sure if there will be added cost in software. I appreciate any advice you could give! Thank you!
Fantastic questions! First let me recommend joining our discord, we have a HUGE community there that will be willing to help you in every aspect of this. ABS, ASA and Nylon are fantastic materials, and there are some other interesting ones that could work as well. Submerging in water or being splashed isn’t going to be a problem at all, really depends on the chemicals. If you know that ABS and Nylon are okay currently as materials in the hot tub world, this shouldn’t be an issue. If you are working with a sub $1000 budget and Bambu is already on your radar, I would recommend the P1S and even opt for the AMS (multi-color/material) option. Software is free for slicing and printing and design software is simple to learn, some free some paid. Our discord: discord.thelmshow.com
@Loyal Moses - My opinion: Your ASA warning/precaution _"I had ASA Poisoning!"_ - probably should not have been buried, 2/3rd's (18:27) of the way through the video - If your genuine intent is to PSA, then please do that right off the top; then add your additional other info - thank you. {I appreciate, that you had chapter indications, and that this was something of an anecdotal experience - the chapter should have been _"I had ASA Poisoning!"_ } Thank you, again.
I just started 3D printing this year and I sleep in the same rooms as my printer. At town I have a small bedroom while at the village I sleep in the larger living room. So far I noticed the faint smell of PLA and more noticeably PETG in my early days of printing but I only smell burned filament whenever they clumped around the nozzle.
I@@LoyalMoses That's true. I can't be in a room without some good air circulation/ventilation. The bedroom is small but I never close the windows. The living is enclosed at night but it is a big space and I have the fan over me. I'm planning to convert some rooms into dedicated hobby rooms for gaming, 3d printing and scale model building. One is almost finished but the other one is still in the planning phase(I live between two houses).
I tried printing nylon on my X1C and it stuck to the build plate really well... well enough to separate the build plate from the magnetic base and warp the entire print. Still trying to come up with better solutions for that besides printing on a raft or at a weird angle.
6:25 Thank you for bringing up Polyterra . It's only like $19 a kg here. While a kg of most other brands PLA has gone up to $25-30 for just normal colors. I bought a spool, and if it works good. I will be happy to not pay 50% more.
I always stress to everyone that wants to print in ABS or ASA, a completely sealed printer with Inlet vents and true negative pressure. Just put it by a window, spend the 15 bucks to get the insert, and model and adapter or find someone else's model. I've never had a problem since
5:59 so if you are halfway through a print and you've blown out a nozzle, does that mean you have to start all over again from scratch, or is there a trick to replace the nozzle and continue printing the piece?
I suppose you could pause, unload and do a nozzle change, but the chances of getting it right without changing your z-height are slim. You’d likely just lose your print.
Unless I am printing a gloss fialement I use PLA+/PRO... I can usually get it at the same price or a couple bucks more a spool. The characteristics and printing properties are worth it for me.
Do you have a link to the "Chidx" (sp?) printer? I have not heard of them. I was trying to search for them but did not even know how to spell the brand.
Note ASA fumes dont get out of more sealed printers like a Voron 2 as easily. if your printer has 1/4 inch gaps the enclosure is for looks and not for temperature control. You do need to not only run a larger carbon filter, but an actual particulate filter. there are VOC meters that all makers that have multiple 3d printers in a single room should absolutely have one to warn them when any filaments emissions are getting to levels where windows need to be opened. I also recommend running a whole room air cleaner with carbon filtering. doing these two things have made my printing office much more enjoyable.
Air exchange requires fresh air to make it into the printer to then be exhausted through the carbon filter, thus the reason for the gaps, while some enclosures have inlet vents. What brand of air cleaner are you running for the whole room? I think some people would be interested to know. Thank you for your comments!
I finished my enclosure build last year and I recently started printing ABS after having a roll on my shelf for almost 5 years. I have never dry-stored it and I have never had issues with wet filament. however, with PET-G I had some wet filament issues (may be other issues though now I've heard you say it is less than ABS. also, the G in PET-G makes it more hygroscopic or is that not true?)
PETG is simply just more hygroscopic than some other filaments because of its molecular makeup. Depending on just how much moisture is in the air, it may need to be dried for some people.
I like to print on a smooth glass bed with Bed Weld. Product goes far and realeses so easily when the plate cool. If I am too impatient I just put on another plate while it cools.
I have worked with a lot of plastics and probably run 60000 lbs of ABS and Polyethylene as an extrusion operator. Every manufacturer I have worked with dries and conditions the pellets prior to being metered into extruders. You talk about ventilation. We vented the building six times an hour, but if you're standing beside a styrene extruder, you get a maximum dosage of sterile gas venting. Dow recommended not inhaling dust from Srytrene as that was cancer-causing, but they recommended venting for the blowing agents we injected to make foams.
Well, about the printing 'safe in bedroom'... do not use the bedroom for sleeping! Why? With 3D-printing you create fine particles in the air. This plastic-dust, even with PLA and more with PLA+ etc., is just not good for your respiration-system. When you are healty, you might not know for a long time but only get some more coughing (or not even noticible). But it can and will probably will build up overtime. Same as living close to a busy highway, would you keep the windows open and get all this dust in? When printing a lot, you will also notice some fine dust around your printer. This is getting in your respirationsystem too. Actually, with 'S'-products like ASA and ABS, the problem with dust is mostly smaller then with many PLA+-es in my experience (and I have COPD, using added O2 multiple hours a day and with active-motions). Probably because it is more static and sticks together and less spreading through the rooms. Venting fumes outside... not soo good since it will get in the environment too. Filter it for as far as possible.
Breathing particles is never good! Have fresh air l, always. As for your other comments, provide sources for others that might be interested, would be helpful.
@@LoyalMoses Some of those info is already on my chanel @el3dprint or is in preparation-stage. As you know, it takes a lot of time and work to make video's from recordings. Datasheets provide a lot of information about filaments too.
Ok a few question I'm into vehicles and farm equipment 3D printing I need clear filament for cab windows and what is the rubbery one I need for soft tires and crawler tractor tracks for replacement ?
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
If I'm not mistaken, the biodegradability of PLA is tricky. If you put it in the field, it will never change. It's only biodegradable in an industrial composter. CNC kitchen made a video showcasing all of this,
Never is a long time! 😉
It will eventually break down, but it isn’t as fast or as easy as many people think. Industrial composting will produce much quicker results for sure.
I know the video of CNC Kitchen and it does not right to PLA. PLA is biodegradable, but it will take a long time when you throw it in your own compost heap. When temperatures reach between 70 and 90 degrees Celsius and cut to fine particles, it will degrade in a couple of days. We produce a very hard type of PLA, which is used for traffic signs and put on sides of buildings. You want those products to last at least 20 years. When a traffic sign is broken, and parts come into nature, you want that to decompose. That is exactly what PLA does.
Common PLA does breaks down fairly quickly under some environmental conditions…. Strong UV destroys it in about a year, it loses all structural strength and crumbles into small fragments. Constant exposure to water seems to accelerate this. I can send you samples if you want.
That's because "biodegradable" means that something will break down in a few weeks or months. For that definition no, PLA isn't biodegradable if it isn't in an industrial facility.
But PLA does break down over time, it's just in the span of years, not weeks. Which is fine if it's a landfill environment where it will stay there for years
@@LoyalMoses Assuming protons decay everything breaks down eventually but that's not "biodegradable". :D
Another thing with apparently cheap filament - check that it's a 1kg reel, not 500g or even 250g
Fantastic advice! I’ve made that mistake before!
$30 for 200 grams of copper fill 😢
@@LoyalMoses You gave this advice yourself at 22:00 lol, idk why this commenter made it seem like they added it onto your video
Yes check! So if you need 5 normal sized parts printed only and you never plan to use that material again, you dont buy a 1kg reel and let it degrade for storing it for 3 years. Buy 500g or 250g. Learn from my mistake!!
I recently got 2kg in 250g rolls ugh
Tip for printing cookie cutters: put plastic wrap over the cookie cutter, that way the print never makes contact with the food. Not my original idea, I saw it somewhere else.
That’s a fantastic tip!
Yes, even if the material itself might be foodsafe, the nozzles, etc... are not food grade certified and might have lead or other contaminates.
@@jasonhurdlow6607 and 3d printing is never truly foodsafe unless maybe you coat it because of the layers they can grow bacteria
🤢
@@ianc8165this has actually been tested and th guidance is revised! As long as you don't print geometries that you can't get a sponge into 3d printed cookie cutters are completely safe
I use my printers for functional, mechanical parts and prototyping (yes, I did live the Benchy-life in the beginning), but I've experimented with so many filaments and have found myself using 3 filaments - PLA+ for 85%, PETG for heat-sensitive parts, and general TPU for softer "rubber" parts. I've found that my 3 goto filaments are IIID Max PLA+ and PETG, Polyterra PLA+ (I don't use PM PETG because of the paper spools and my drier box operations), and SunLU's TPU.
That’s awesome! Thank you for sharing!
I didn't even know how to use any CAD software when I got a 3d printer. Now I can whip up most anything I need and have it printed in day. Personally I've gone over to the darkside and started using ABS more and more, it's really not that hard to work with unless you're printing something that's fairly large or don't own a cardboard box to stick over your printer.
For heat sensitive parts, you might even consider PET. Not PETG, PET without the glycol, since the glycol in PETG actually reduces its melting temperature.
I print PETG directly to glass and have no difficulty in getting it to release. I found the answwer is to allow it to cool completely and the differential thermal expansion between glass and PETG makes it almost always a case of simply picking the model up without any need for tools at all. What I have found is that printing directly to glass requires the glass to be scrupulously clean, any grease at all (fingerprints etc.) can cause bed adhesion issues.
Great tip!
You were lucky :) I had two sheets of glass ruined by PETG. One was plain cut to size window glass, the other was carborundum coated FLSun. The PETG stuck so well to it that the object broke off pieces of the glass.
I know I'm 10 months late to the party, but I wanted to say thank you so much for this video. I picked up my first 3D printer a couple of days ago and I'm still getting use to the idea that I don't have to run out and buy or order "this" or "that" online. I can just make it. That's mind blowing to me, but it also sent me down a rabbit hole of understanding the materials I'm using for the items intended purpose. Your video has demystified so much about filaments. And settled a worry I had about my printer choice. I went with a Bambu A1 with the AMS attachment as my first printer. I was worried that because of this choice I wouldn't be able to print durable parts for outdoor use as I thought ABS and ASA were my only two options. Thanks to you, I'll be ordering a couple spools of PETG. Thanks again!
Congratulations!!! Welcome in, this is such an amazing industry and hobby! You chose an excellent machine, and it’s super awesome that you took the time to comment! Thank you!
"...and animals - they breathe too. So be careful of that" hahaha, love it
😁
I so love my Nevermore filter for ABS/ASA printing. Just remember, 50 hour or 30 days and swap out the carbon media!
That would be a fun system to test!
Triple carbon filtered and HEPA filter Bento Box has been great as well. Standard carbon filters stuck in the printer aren't going to do much.
I upgraded to a nevermore stealthmax which is huge. The carbon in that lasts a super long time.
I once ordered a roll of PLA for only $7 on Amazon. When it arrived, I found out why it was $7 - turns out the roll was only 250 grams instead of the usual one kilogram. Suited me fine because I don’t print orange very often lol
Oh no! I have done that before too. Lots of 750g spools out there too!
@@LoyalMoses The dremel ones are the worst. In canada they're pricier on amazon than a 1kg spool of Polymaker PLA, but it's 750g.
Don't they say how much is on the roll? I have been buying PLA for over 5 years and have NEVER not seen the amount if you read the complete description. Just sayin'.
@@3dtexan890 yeah I probably should have read the description more thoroughly lol
@@3dtexan890 they do, but charging 50$ Canadian for a 750g spool is predatory, and sometimes it’s not the manufacturer doing the listing and they’ll just put it in the keyword soup that is the item’s title on amazon and hide it in the technical details deep in the description. Lots of dark patterns and not so moral choices
This is such an undiscovered gem of a youtube channel, the information presented here was top notch and in a fantastic format. Instant subscription from me!
That’s very kind! Thank you! 💜
I'd not heard of ASA poisoning and has me rethinking my setup. I may have been effected int he past and not realised ! thanks for the great info.
Hey! Glad to see you here! It’s a real thing for sure, can be very dangerous.
Same here. I realized it only after watching this video. All it took was a couple of minutes to check on the print and boom, headache
Loved the 3D Print General spool proudly displayed. Great video.
💜
Came here to say to say this
I have a feeling your channel is about to get more popular. I found you from a recommendation from YT and I'm not disappointed! Fantastic video and very informative!
Thank you Matt!
PLA is absolutely recyclable! Plenty of companies use recycled PLA feedstock (rPLA), and there's a large influx of home recycling products currently 😊 Researching it is my job, we're currently up to 4 cycles without effecting conductive Performance, 7 recycling cycles with no change in the chemical properties, after which it can't be extruded, but can still be used in injection moulding, fill etc.
Can you post links to sources for those that may be interested?! Would be very helpful!
@@LoyalMoses absolutely! DOI is "10.1021" 😊 That is the paper on recycling PLA from post-consumer waste sources, the paper on long-term recycling from virgin feedstocks (aka new Filament/pellets) is yet to be published as we're still concluding the work 😊 All of our research can be found through the authors list
All my printers are in enclosures all are ducted to an exhaust port on the window of my office. Spent a lot of time designing manifolds and backflow prevention valves, and I have to regenerate desiccant constantly due to the moisture coming in, but it's worth it. I work almost exclusively with ASA, and the machines are running 24/7. The stuff is the best.
Hey! That is very cool! How are you drying your desiccant? ASA is an awesome material!
@@LoyalMoses not op but toaster oven in the backyard works well, if you want a no fuss setup, you can use the desiccant part of tech ingredient's air conditioner
basically you use a pair of aquarium pumps to spray [just enough water mixed with calcium chloride (snow removal salt) to make it liquid] in a tube with a fan pushing air against the flow, it will dry up air even as a liquid, and the other part is the same but you push it through a black hose behind a glass sheet an that will heat it up enough that it releases water outside.
that is way less electricity since you're using the sun to do most of the work.
if you're somewhere with no sun you might be able to just heat the calcium chloride and water mixture with something like an instant hot water heater
1:10 you didn’t mention the air humidity in the room where you have all your filament, that makes a lot of difference, in my room it’s 60-65 by default all year round, on the street 70 so all of a sudden PLa becomes very hygroscopic
It’s pretty low here, 15% to 35% depending on the year!
That's my problem too. We live close to the ocean, so I run a dehumidifier spring and summer, until we turn on the heat in the fall. The humidity goes from 50-70 over night, that is if the dehumidifier fills up when I'm asleep. During the warmer months, I get about a month of printing a spool before it absorbs too much moisture.
@@dmonhuntr75 how does that effect finished products over time in the climate changes?
@@justincuvelier9569I have to dry the filament or the finished part is brittle. I do my best to be there when the print finishes, so that the roll can be removed and stored as quickly as possible. The printed parts stand up fine once they are finished.
I also print with a ziplock bag around the roll, with silica packs in the bag. That really helps keep the filament dry for quite a while.
@@dmonhuntr75 thank you for sharing. that helps a lot. what do you think is a good printer for new person who wants to be serious but doesn't need to upgrade their printer after a few months or so.
Polyterra is my goto PLA (love the matte finish!) and I have printed dozens of rolls and seen no problems with my nozzles wearing (I haven't changed my Revo since I got it last November!)!
Awesome!
But on their Discord server they didn't deny it's more abrasive than PLA, just it's much less than generic filled PLAs.
Desiccant in a tight sealing tub would be my go to if worried about moisture. Great video. I wanted to know the differences badly.
Smart! Keep that moisture out, then no need to dry it! And thank you!
That's what I use. Plastic tote with a gasket and a "rechargeable" Eva Dry desiccant unit.
Do desiccants stop working after a while
@@Kieran28 Yes. There are disposable types and types you can dry out and reuse. The one I use changes colors when wet. It has a built in wall plug that powers a weak heating element to dry it back out. Just swap it with a dry one and plug in the wet one. I think the air circulation for drying it out could be better to make it more efficient, but they work.
There is a lab grade one called Drierite. That also changes colors. To dry it out I believe the directions call to spread it in a thin layer on a baking sheet and put it in the oven at a certain temperature if I recall correctly.
I bought some of the drierite a long long time ago for a project before 3d printers were a thing. I think I still have a jar of it someplace.
I'm sure there are others, but that's the two I have experience with except for disposable packets that are part of packaging.
Ironically, ended up using Drierite at a job a good while after I bought some for my project. It involved draining tanks of liquid resin into a hopper then into a bag. The dessicant was used on an intake tube to keep the air in the hopper dry that displaces the volume as the it drained. Dry air was hooked directly to the big tank.
thank you :D @@caddyguy5369
This is why I have started putting even my enclosed printers that I print ASA on in a secondary enclosure with an vent out the window that has an inline charcoal filter. So even what I am putting outside, is a touch cleaner.
Super smart to be safe! Thanks Zolon!
Now this sounds like so much work I get tired just thinking of it. Congrats for walking the extra mile on both personal safety and environmental
Good idea!
I always run a negative air flow straight out the window. Great way to guarantee you don't get sick😅
I started watching this clip when it first came out but I didn't have the time to watch it all. Now, with the holidays, I was able to finish it and I must say I'm pleasantly impressed by the quick, down to Earth, no BS answers! Subscribed :)
Thank you! That is very kind!
All the recycling stuff is totally bunk because the recycler won't have any idea what material it is when you throw it into the bin, so its always going into the land-fill from an automated sorting system. I know we want to feel like we're being environmentally friendly, but we're totally adding to the green-washing of plastic usage and wish-cycling by throwing into the recycling bin (whether we called them or not) and we need to be cognizant of that.
Great video. I'm new to printing , so I found all the information very helpful.
You are very welcome!
Absolutely great video! Very informative. I'd love to see another video with more common Engineering materials like PC or TPU.
Thank you Marco! We’ll do another one for sure with the more advanced filaments!
thank you for the great info. I look forwarded to checking out your other videos. I was really just going to check out the info about PLA and Petg, but watched until the end due to how easy to listen to and knowledgeable you are.
Awesome, thank you!
This was great. So much useful information. I've just bought my first filament drying box and it has been a game changer for my ASA prints. More content like this please!
Thank you! It was a long video! 💜
Wow, you deserve way more followers. I learned a ton and it was presented in a great way. Fantastic job.
Thank you so very much! I’m new, but trying hard! 💜
I'm here for it buddy. Can't wait to see what's next.
Re: VOCs and other emissions from 3D prints
According to studies I've read, the best material in this category is PETG followed by PLA, however there really needs to be industry standards for this because there are now hundreds of 3D printing formulations for both polymers, and any of those additives can affect what is emitted into the air. Every manufacturer has their "secret sauce", and we really don't know what they're putting into their materials in their attempts to be competitive.
It's also important to consider particulate emissions, because PLA does have some of that while ABS/ASA has a lot more along with the styrene emissions. This is good to know if you or anyone you know is affected by asthma. If you're worried about particulates, stick to PETG.
I’d love to learn and read about this more! Share links if you have them, they’d be very helpful to others to. Thank you for this!!!
Learnt a couple thing from the video but just wanted to say, wholesome video man. It sounds like you are really passionate
I appreciate that! Thank you! 💜
What is the best support material for Nylon? Eg. you have a mult-material printer, should you use PETG/ABS as breakaway support? or what else?
That's a really great question! I will have to do some research and testing to find out.
First time watching your videos. What a great place to start. Great information, and well done.
Thank you I really appreciate that!
Best trait of PETG is it's strong and can still flex. Excellent for things like belt clips etc.
just like most PLA+ filaments except worse
@@knifeyonline There is so much more to it than that, the mechanical properties are not that simple. There is heat resistance, layer adhesion, abrasion resistance, impact resistance and creep is all superior in PETG compared to most PLA+/pro.
Yeah the creep on PLA makes it F tier for long load parts imo
awesome vid thanks for info. just got a creality K1C for my first printer haveing issues with the extruder jamming here and there but with through my first spool making benchies and fidgets lol.
The life of 3D printing! Welcome! 💜
Weed eater string is made out of nylon and some are modified to be extremely durable and stable. All my plain nylon prints are made out of round 0.065 inch trimmer line and if you look hard enough or ask your gardener you can find 1, 3, 5 even 10lbs spools. Unfortunately the color selection is extremely limited but extremely cheap and consistent. Also 0.065in is 1.6mm which is fine you just gotta tune extrusion rates and retractions.
What's the cost for 1kg of weed eater string? I know this is where hobby 3D printing began, but I do wonder what the costs are.
@@LoyalMoses About 35usd for a 2.25kg spool.
@@LoyalMosesI was under the impression that it's exceedingly expensive for this purpose... almost seems smarter to use filament for string trimming lmao.
Harbor Freight has the 100ft for $6. It's 1/5 of a lb. So figure almost $70/kg
@oldkingcrow777 yes i use that stuff all the time even prints great on my ender s1 without an enclosure for small prints
On April 2024 Amazon had:
"KAKO 065 Trimmer Line Round Weed Eater Line .065 Weed Wacker String .065-Inch-by-2000-ft-3lb Commercial Grade Round String Trimmer Line, Weed Eater String .065 Fits Most String Trimmer(Orange)"
for $26. USD
Great video. I am a complete newbie at this. My only experience with printing is with laser printers for paper. I just ordered a new Qudi Pro printer and it is supposed to be shipped mid May. I also just subscribed to your channel. I'm trying to learn as much as I can before I start playing with this printer and I can't wait to get started! Thanks.
How exciting! Congratulations!!! If you ever have questions, ask away! Our discord is an awesome place too, you are welcome to join!
loyal.ms/discord
Salute for the 3D Print General tribute 🫡
🫡
finally a total view and short and sweat information. Great job thanks.
Thank you!
Thank you so much for the very valuable knowledge you are sharing with us, it is extremely useful and I've discovered and learnt so many things on your channel - had a quick scroll through your channel and after watching couple if videos I immediately subscribed. With the amount of knowledge you have, I think that it will be very helpful to all of us if could do a detailed video specifically about filaments and sharing your knowledge about them, comparing heat resistance, uv resistance, overall strength, lifespan indoors vs outdoors, toxicity, and proposing ideal uses. After 3d printing for 5 years with PLA, TPU and ABS I'm in the search to find the best all around filament that will do for all common indoor and outdoor uses (art and functional prints) even if the price is premium. You print it and forget it type of thing - have no worries that it will break down after 2 years outdoors, will warp or delaminate cause of constant humidity - contact with water and other common conditions. I recently upgraded to Bambu X1C so looking around for the best all rounder really.
Thank you so much again Mr LM and Mrs LM, fantastic job!
Thank you for the VERY kind words! 💜 That’s a great idea, I’ll add that to our short list of content. I agree it would be helpful to have a filament guide on when and how to use all of the different types. Thank you again, it’s wonderful to read comments like this.
When your talking about being hydroscopic is that only the filiment or also the printed piece?
Mostly the filament because it requires low moisture to print properly. But, printed parts definitely absorb moisture, especially nylons, they even require moisture absorption to be more flexible.
Cheap PLA (sometimes you get what you pay for, sometimes you get lucky) Great Q&A session
Very true. How do you feel you’ve been? I feel they I’ve been lucky over the years, less than a handful of bad experiences.
@@LoyalMosescan say similar results, & I base on experience from 2015 to present. Out of thousands of spools, can say maybe 3-4 at the most of bad results.
@@LoyalMoses My experiences: with multiple 'cheap' brands: it is hit or miss. Sometimes I have like 10 spools without problems but other times it is like 2 out of 3 spools have thicker and thinner parts. Clogging up extruders and even had damaged parts on the printers with it. And still many times here it is around 15€ per KG/spool.
Sometimes it is only like one thick spot (2-3mms) in a spool but it can cost not only the print but also the parts and labour on the printer.
I now have a selection-set of brands I use, somewhat more expensive in most cases but I know they are stable enough for draft-prints. Some of the other brands-spools are apart from the printers and I only use short parts of those for use in my 3D pens now.
About the price: keep in mind that filaments like PLA weight more in volume then with ABS for example. So: PLA is maybe cheaper per KG but can cost a lot more for the same volume of print then with ABS. Besides in many cases needing less volume with ABS or PETG then with PLA for the same (functional) part.
This has been one of the most informative and interesting videos for the types of polymers I’ve seen so far! Thank you!!
Thank you!
After I discover your channel a week ago my mind is just blowing up. I thought I know about filaments but some details that you said in this video is make more clear my knowledge. Keep doing this hard work!!!! 👏🏼thank you !!!
Wow! Very kind of you, thank you for this comment, glad you enjoyed it. 💜
Is it possible to print ABS or ASA (or anything) with the printer outdoors?
I have a room, but with no ventilation and I want to try printing other materials than PLA or PETG.
Will an enclosed printer like the P1S or X1C be able to work being outside (in a varanda)?
Yes, they can be outside if the temperature and humidity are similar to indoors. Loss of heat within the enclosure will definitely cause printing problems.
@@LoyalMoses if it'll be a stable 8-10 degrees Celsius, it'll be a problem, right?
Thanks for your help!!!
Yes, that’s a bit cold for it. It likely would throw an error that the environment was not warm enough.
@@PhotoMakersMy open bed printer is in an outdoor shed and prints ok in winter where the temperature inside the shed is often around 5 degrees or lower. I have to heat the shed to 7 degrees centigrade before starting. Any colder and the printer won't function (most electronics don't function well below this temperature). I get an error. So you may need to take a hair dryer out to it to heat up the electronics until they will allow the printer to turn on it's own heaters and you may also need to put a insulated box over the printer in the coldest months, but I would say it's always doable if you manage the potential problems
What a great video - all the information is there without any of the fluffery buffery - the recommendations are seamless, and I've learned an awful lot from just one video. You & Mrs LM have got yourself a new subscriber!
Hey! That is so very kind of you! Thank you! I'll read my wife your comment!
19:47 I'm glad I watched this. I'm in an apartment with a two year old and my printer is in his closet. I figured a Carbon/HEPA filter would be sufficient but I guess I'll just stick with PLA.
Definitely! I am glad you watched this too. The more fresh air, the better!
Wow! I didn't realize that glow-in-the-dark PLA was abrasive. I'd better use my tungsten steel nozzle to print all the Halloween stuff I was planning.
Great timing 👍
Regarding the ASA poisoning, yep those carbon filters take away a lot of the smell but don't capture the nasty chemicals.
I have a high volume fan sucking the air out of a window whenever printing things other than PLA.
Definitely print it with a hardened nozzle for sure! Yes, ASA is okay to print with proper ventilation, without, it's just nasty.
@@LoyalMoses Is keeping my Bambu P1S (Enclosured) beside the open balcony door while printing a lot of ASA fine?
I've been printing since 2016, had a spool I kept for many many years that I later used to compare modern PLA and noticed how much stronger and way less smell today's plastics are than some 10+ years ago
its worth noting that degradation of the plastic over as long a period as 10 years is not negligible, so that is not necessarily a fair comparison. Also, if you didn't dry it beforehand, it almost certainly had absorbed some water, which would effect both smell and performance
Recipes have definitely changed for the better. So many high tech filament options now!
ASA ... its fancy ✨️🥂✨️
Came here because YT just suggested this video ^^
Interesting video, you get my sub.
Hey! Welcome and THANK YOU! That's awesome.
I'm a new subscriber and I really dig your channel. Just got to leave one comment/ correction. ALL filaments give off VOC's. I'm not a chemist nor do I claim to know more than others, there is another RUclipsr that did test this and all filaments gave off VOCs. I don't know if some are more toxic than others and I don't even know the definition of a VOC. But I would not be printing in a closed room. Leave it outside in a workshop
Thank you! Welcome in, and absolutely -- always have fresh air, we only get one set of lungs!
You mentioned advantages of enclosures and heated enclosures but not how hot it must be to make a significant difference. Is a 45c plexiglas box any good or a 55c Chanell plastic "green house" better, I even saw a 100c plywood one, what temp is enough to make the effort worth it?
Anything that prevents drafts, and any extra heat to keep it warmer is good. 50c or above would be awesome.
I learned very quickly that carbon filters merely remove the odor, not the VoCs from the air. Resin printing made this magnitudes worse and quickly apparent.
so PSA: carbon filters don't work for VoCs, the thing that actually hurts you.
I feel the same way, they only worked when properly installed and the environment and air flow is controlled.
I disagree, carbon filters do remove VoC's from the air and are very good at it. This, though, depends on certain variables, such as volume of VoC's, exposure, air-flo and type/size of carbon filter/particulates and most important of all, how often the filters are replaced.
@@chrissavill8713 Well, millions of users who use resin printers will simply hold empirical data, as well as countless lab findings that suggest tiny carbon filters are insufficient for the volume of VoCs released. This isn't an opinion debate. It's fucking science. You need a near industrial scale system to handle the many types of VoCs 3D printing exposes you too.
I might of missed the hydroscopic rating of ASA also Nylon how UV resistant is it? I'm wanting to use it in a marine environment (On my boat) to keep aluminum separate from other metals, also ASA for light parts inside the boat to save weight
ASA is similar to ABS, slightly less hygroscopic-so we understand. Nylon is definitely more UV resistant than PLA or ABS, it weathers well.
@@LoyalMoses Thank you
Hi Moses, Thank you for this in-depth lesson about all the different filaments available, the AI assistant is a nice touch too.
Thanks! That’s not AI! That’s my wife! 😃💜
@@LoyalMoses Hi Moses, sorry, din't realize it was your wife, she is very comprehensible and eloquent, that's why I though it was AI. 😅
I think she was a bit nervous so she sounded robotic! 💜🔥
Where I live we have "normal" trash marked as energy waste so those go to burning places where they make heat for city area. We have separated bins for metal, glass, paper, and bio.
I have put supports from PLA and PETG prints for energy waste.
Thank you for the comment! I think this is more common than people know.
I let my P1S print inside a toilet tent in the backyard from day one. Contamination has never been a problem😂
Hahahaha! 🔥
Very informative. I noticed the stormtrooper helmet in the background halfway through. Excellent.
Thank you! That one is a work in progress 😁!
I originally was a bit nervous about this video when I saw the title. There are far too many feeding the "misinformation" train... but mostly because there has been way too much hype about 3D printing being "safe". Anytime you are heating up plastics to the glass transition or melt point, there are going to be volatiles released. This is NOT some kind of Star Trek replicator... these are machine tools. Just as you would not sprat paint something or run a grinder, saw, or sander in your bedroom (at least not without ventilation and dust removal) you should not run a 3D printer without similar cautions. Thoroughly learn AND respect the process and the precautions and you will have a very long and enjoyable experience. Slack off at your own peril!
That being said, an excellent presentation of information and the intricacies of the various filaments. I wish more creators would take the time to present the pros and cons in an accurate fashion. The world of 3D printing is a fascinating place with many wonderful creations and opportunities, but it is NOT, nor has it ever been a "toy". There will be consequences for engaging and even though they are pretty easy to mitigate and render relatively safe for operation, there are many who will get overconfident or less informed about the process and chemistries and may end up paying a heavy price for their inattention to the details. Hanging a filter on the side of a printer is NOT generally sufficient for those VOCs if there is not sufficient air flow and positive ventilation and extraction of fumes from the operational area.
Thank you for such a well crafted comment! I appreciate the common sense and technical points. A lot of good information.
I started with PETG and TPU for strong funtional parts and drone accessories. I just started messong with PLA for decorative stuff. I struggle with getting my PLA prints lookong as good as my PETG and TPU.
Interesting! PLA should be so easy to print.
@@LoyalMoses I figured out I'm only having issues with white PLA. After some digging I found out a lot of people struggle with white filament because of the levels of titanium oxide.
$8 filament? Hell yes. I'll take my chance on that all day. Perfect stuff for testing and iterative prototyping where you are not concerned with quality as much and need to pump out a bunch of test pieces. From my experience, even the ultra cheap stuff is good enough for that these days.
Very true, especially when testing / prototyping.
Then you should try the key words "Trimmer line round 0.065 commercial" you should be able to find a 5lbs spool of nylon for 35usd thats 2.25kgs of nylon.
Yes it works thats what I use for my around the house stuff.
@@Guardian_Arias that is a great idea lol. How durable are tools and materials you print using that? What printer are you using to achieve the results you use it for? What are some common items you have used and how has it worked for you? I am curious as I have ideas and am looking into buying one, but want to identify best filament to use for my cause. Thanks for sharing.
Great vid! I know all of this already, and still watched the whole thing.
Thank you Shane! I sincerely appreciate that. 💜
Nylon in an enclosure... You are literally sponsored by Polymaker and didn't mention how easily their Nylon prints not only without an enclosure, but even with a barely heated bed. Honestly with modern extruders (read "capable with TPU") Polymaker PolyMide CoPA is probably the next easiest thing to print after PLA. (but yes, it is VERY hygroscopic)
Also for the recycling, I know here (Australia) no one accepts ANY 3D printed material for recycling, because they can't know for sure what type of material it is, or what additives it has.
Thanks for sharing! I think recycling will continue to be tough for 3D printed things.
Are those "adhesion boosters" you talked about compatible with PEI plates?
Absolutely, we use them on smooth and textured PEI sheets as well as BuildTak.
bofa printpro 3 here. can't put a price tag on your lungs or your health.
Oh! I’ve heard great things about that one. Glad to hear you have one and like it!
I know glow in the dark filament will break down a brass nozzle, but does it break down a stainless steel nozzle? Or do I have to get a hardened steel nozzle and gears for my P1S?
Stainless or hardened steel nozzle will work great! But the upgraded gears is a good idea, if you plan to print this and other abrasives! And, thank you for the question!
Also, brass nozzles usually contain trace amounts of lead, so anything printed with a brass nozzle can't really be considered food safe, even if the filament is.
I’ve heard this before, but have never confirmed it from a reputable source. Would love to test prints for trace amounts of lead, would be interesting! Thank you for the comment!
@@LoyalMoses That would make for a great video!
@@LoyalMosesyeah thjs feels like some California prop 65 stuff and I'm done taking my home state seriously 😂
Various fruits and veggies arr even labeled as "potentially causing reproductive harm" or whatever due to lead content
Trace of lead from the nozzle is just a joke 😂 You can eat meat from hunting the animals with PURE lead...
Best plate adhesive for the bed is hear spray...
Loved the video, missed your assessment of PC filament.
Thanks! We have another video coming with more technical filaments! 🔥
Recyclable, What Filiments can be recyled at home. Many are trying to re use fillliment. I know you mention recycle as in Turn in to a center and or refil, but with devices slowly emerging and diys is it going to be more possible?
I haven't seen any real at home / DIY filament recycling systems that are going to return filament back to a quality reusable product - most are janky and of course they cannot reconstitute the filament properly, so it just becomes worse each time that is done.
I would really like to see someone make an affordable, quality home extruder for recycling filament though!
@@LoyalMoses YeahI have seen some inventions and Prototypes with 3D Printing nerd, Joel and some setup that turns Bottles into filliment.
Nice video. I’ve been at it for 11 years and decided to buy a new printer now and started bouncing around videos to see what’s all changed. One thing I can tell you I do for ABS when printing on a glass bed (maybe with a thick capton layer) is take my scrap ABS from supports and mix it with some acetone to make a glue that’s the same color for the next print. This ABS glue holds it down great and keeps it out of the trash.
Definitely! ABS slurry has been a goto for a lot of people over the years.
19:15 The first time I printed ABS, it was a cheap brand, very fumy, I was printing in a room adjacent to the bedroom. I woke up the next day with a "sense of impending doom"... I never knew what that was supposed to mean, until that day.
I could feel, deep in my lungs, something heavy. Went outside for about 10 minutes and was feeling better. Went back inside and I could smell ALL the fumes I guess built up slowly. I didn't even print a lot. Maybe 2 hours, 2-3 meters of filament. That was something else.
Yikes! That’s scary! It definitely depends on the amount of styrene in the filament and how much you breath! I’m glad you are okay!
Love PLA+ for tabletop terrain. Its a bit more anoying to clean up, especialy with small supports n stuff but its so much more resilient than normal pla for hobby handling. a buddy of mine prints in standard pla constantly and his terrain breaks every now and then and i never had any issues of that kind with my pla+.
PLA+ for sure!
As far as printing items for use around food. Could the objects be coated safely? There are many wood finishing products that require special handling during application (especially Lacquer) that once cured, are okay for food usage. How close to "hand-wash" safe or even "Dish-Washer" or safe could you get on various filaments if a coating were applied? Can you recommend any such coatings?
Totally! There are a lot of food-safe resins that you can use to coat prints in. A lot of options in-fact.
You mentioned PLA, PLA+, PLA Pro and PLA HD.
What about PolyLite PLA? Is it any different, or is that just a Polymaker moniker?
Next, when we say it's hygroscopic, is the plastic really absorbing moisture, or is it that the moisture just clings to the surface of the plastic? Many plumbing items are made of ABS.
Lastly, amazingly, that Qidi X Plus 3 is still only $650!
As always, thanks for the great lessons.
PolyLite is just their naming convention for regular PLA! It does absorb moisture and it will make the filament on the spool brittle and you’ll hear the moisture sizzling when printing if you have that issue.
In the Pacific NW my house hovers at 60% relative humidity and I have to keep all the filament in bags with desiccant packs and humidity monitors. 15% in the bag works well. Seeing all those open rolls on your shelf starts to make me panic. Ha
Yikes! That’s high. I’m here in the PNW too, but on a mountain, our humidity is pretty low.
As a converted nylonganggang printer…Nylon that is glass or CF filled can be printed without an enclosure IF….IF you have a stable ambient temperature in the room. With that said, I’ve printed open air as low as 67F with no issues. But there were no drafts or temperature swings
The room becomes a giant enclosure! Thank you, this is true, we’ve printed all sorts by keeping a room nice and warm but mostly keeping drafts out.
Wow Amazing. You're introducing the ABS segment and you mention whether we think we can or can't, and my response to that was "More like, why?" Next question....
If I could sub twice.
Very kind of you! Sometimes I get a bit excited about this industry, and it comes through the camera! 😁
How do you mitigate the toxins/ASA fumes in your setup? I know you say to print in a well-ventilated space, what did you do to increase ventilation? How do you isolate a room from the main living space of a home? Thanks!
Open window, a fan, cross breeze. Something like that. Without knowing more about your environment I can't really be specific. I know some people have printed in their garage below their living space and found that after some time they could smell the ASA. So whatever you can do to create as much fresh air as possible, but also keeping temperatures stable.
Great video - you are incredibly knowledge compared to other channels.
Very kind! Thank you.
I'm completely new to 3D printing and haven't bought a unit yet as I am trying to figure out which one will be best for me. I have a hot tub repair business and am thinking I could 3D print some maybe hard to find or discontinued items. I am gathering that I would likely need to use ABS, ASA or Nylon but what if the items are to be submerged in the hot tub water? They will need to be UV resistant and handle being submerged in chemical rich environment. Which filament would work best? Secondarily I do have some other ideas unrelated to hot tubs for a side project or invention I am wanting to build but again, it would be around water but not submerged in it. These items would be mostly protected from water but would need to endure some water getting splashed on them. I am probably leaning towards a Bambu 3D printer but not sure which model will work best for me? Only wanting to spend between $600-1000 and am not sure if there will be added cost in software. I appreciate any advice you could give! Thank you!
Fantastic questions! First let me recommend joining our discord, we have a HUGE community there that will be willing to help you in every aspect of this.
ABS, ASA and Nylon are fantastic materials, and there are some other interesting ones that could work as well.
Submerging in water or being splashed isn’t going to be a problem at all, really depends on the chemicals. If you know that ABS and Nylon are okay currently as materials in the hot tub world, this shouldn’t be an issue.
If you are working with a sub $1000 budget and Bambu is already on your radar, I would recommend the P1S and even opt for the AMS (multi-color/material) option.
Software is free for slicing and printing and design software is simple to learn, some free some paid.
Our discord: discord.thelmshow.com
@Loyal Moses - My opinion: Your ASA warning/precaution _"I had ASA Poisoning!"_ - probably should not have been buried, 2/3rd's (18:27) of the way through the video - If your genuine intent is to PSA, then please do that right off the top; then add your additional other info - thank you.
{I appreciate, that you had chapter indications, and that this was something of an anecdotal experience - the chapter should have been _"I had ASA Poisoning!"_ } Thank you, again.
👍
I just started 3D printing this year and I sleep in the same rooms as my printer. At town I have a small bedroom while at the village I sleep in the larger living room. So far I noticed the faint smell of PLA and more noticeably PETG in my early days of printing but I only smell burned filament whenever they clumped around the nozzle.
Just make sure you have fresh air, that is the most important thing!
I@@LoyalMoses That's true. I can't be in a room without some good air circulation/ventilation. The bedroom is small but I never close the windows. The living is enclosed at night but it is a big space and I have the fan over me.
I'm planning to convert some rooms into dedicated hobby rooms for gaming, 3d printing and scale model building. One is almost finished but the other one is still in the planning phase(I live between two houses).
I tried printing nylon on my X1C and it stuck to the build plate really well... well enough to separate the build plate from the magnetic base and warp the entire print. Still trying to come up with better solutions for that besides printing on a raft or at a weird angle.
Put a layer of gluestick down, that acts as an interface layer, will help it release.
6:25 Thank you for bringing up Polyterra . It's only like $19 a kg here. While a kg of most other brands PLA has gone up to $25-30 for just normal colors. I bought a spool, and if it works good. I will be happy to not pay 50% more.
If you like matte filaments, you’ll love it. It’s a bit softer, made from minerals, but it had a great surface finish!
I always stress to everyone that wants to print in ABS or ASA, a completely sealed printer with Inlet vents and true negative pressure. Just put it by a window, spend the 15 bucks to get the insert, and model and adapter or find someone else's model. I've never had a problem since
Great advice! Ventilation is so important!
5:59 so if you are halfway through a print and you've blown out a nozzle, does that mean you have to start all over again from scratch, or is there a trick to replace the nozzle and continue printing the piece?
I suppose you could pause, unload and do a nozzle change, but the chances of getting it right without changing your z-height are slim. You’d likely just lose your print.
If you live in a humid area I use a few zip lock bags filled with sphagnum moss open in the containers
Oh, that is cool!
When you smelled the bed cement from TH3D, I got a little pain between my head between my eyebrows lol.
It’s a strong smell!
How do you not have more subs? Great video, very informative, thanks!
That’s very kind! I’m brand new, only been a partner for 6 months!
Unless I am printing a gloss fialement I use PLA+/PRO... I can usually get it at the same price or a couple bucks more a spool. The characteristics and printing properties are worth it for me.
That's great to hear
Do you have a link to the "Chidx" (sp?) printer? I have not heard of them. I was trying to search for them but did not even know how to spell the brand.
This is my affiliate link! loyal.ms/xplus3
@@LoyalMoses Thank you very much!
Note ASA fumes dont get out of more sealed printers like a Voron 2 as easily. if your printer has 1/4 inch gaps the enclosure is for looks and not for temperature control. You do need to not only run a larger carbon filter, but an actual particulate filter. there are VOC meters that all makers that have multiple 3d printers in a single room should absolutely have one to warn them when any filaments emissions are getting to levels where windows need to be opened. I also recommend running a whole room air cleaner with carbon filtering. doing these two things have made my printing office much more enjoyable.
Air exchange requires fresh air to make it into the printer to then be exhausted through the carbon filter, thus the reason for the gaps, while some enclosures have inlet vents.
What brand of air cleaner are you running for the whole room? I think some people would be interested to know.
Thank you for your comments!
Interesting and informative! Good video!
Thank you!
I finished my enclosure build last year and I recently started printing ABS after having a roll on my shelf for almost 5 years.
I have never dry-stored it and I have never had issues with wet filament. however, with PET-G I had some wet filament issues (may be other issues though now I've heard you say it is less than ABS. also, the G in PET-G makes it more hygroscopic or is that not true?)
PETG is simply just more hygroscopic than some other filaments because of its molecular makeup. Depending on just how much moisture is in the air, it may need to be dried for some people.
You're crushing this RUclips game bro, keep it up, loving watching you grow!
Thanks brother!
Thank you for the video! Quick questions, is nylon UV resistant also?
Thanks! Most nylon filaments are UV resistant due to the additives they include. Raw nylon isn’t completely UV resistant but better than PLA and ABS.
I like to print on a smooth glass bed with Bed Weld. Product goes far and realeses so easily when the plate cool. If I am too impatient I just put on another plate while it cools.
Awesome.
I have worked with a lot of plastics and probably run 60000 lbs of ABS and Polyethylene as an extrusion operator. Every manufacturer I have worked with dries and conditions the pellets prior to being metered into extruders. You talk about ventilation. We vented the building six times an hour, but if you're standing beside a styrene extruder, you get a maximum dosage of sterile gas venting. Dow recommended not inhaling dust from Srytrene as that was cancer-causing, but they recommended venting for the blowing agents we injected to make foams.
60,000 pounds?! Wow!
underrated channel. love it
I appreciate that!
Well, about the printing 'safe in bedroom'... do not use the bedroom for sleeping!
Why? With 3D-printing you create fine particles in the air. This plastic-dust, even with PLA and more with PLA+ etc., is just not good for your respiration-system. When you are healty, you might not know for a long time but only get some more coughing (or not even noticible). But it can and will probably will build up overtime.
Same as living close to a busy highway, would you keep the windows open and get all this dust in?
When printing a lot, you will also notice some fine dust around your printer. This is getting in your respirationsystem too.
Actually, with 'S'-products like ASA and ABS, the problem with dust is mostly smaller then with many PLA+-es in my experience (and I have COPD, using added O2 multiple hours a day and with active-motions). Probably because it is more static and sticks together and less spreading through the rooms.
Venting fumes outside... not soo good since it will get in the environment too. Filter it for as far as possible.
Breathing particles is never good! Have fresh air l, always. As for your other comments, provide sources for others that might be interested, would be helpful.
@@LoyalMoses Some of those info is already on my chanel @el3dprint or is in preparation-stage. As you know, it takes a lot of time and work to make video's from recordings.
Datasheets provide a lot of information about filaments too.
Good and concise intro to filaments for beginners 👍
Thank you! 💜
Ok a few question I'm into vehicles and farm equipment 3D printing I need clear filament for cab windows and what is the rubbery one I need for soft tires and crawler tractor tracks for replacement ?
That is called TPU!