Really well-done vid, can't believe you're under 1k subs! Hella underrated, hope your channel blows up one day (as much as one can, in the 3d printing space)
Ive got an old and used Ender 3 V2. I installed a full linear rail kit for x, y and z axes, installed a dual z drive, installed the sprite extruder pro, bought a new magnetic pei plate plus a smooth one, and flashed it with klipper using a sonic pad. Overall I paid about $500 for it. But it was fun to build it. Now on top of it, I ran some macros with speed tests, figuring out, that I can safely use 900mm/s during print without overheating, losing steps on the motors or disassembly. The only problem now is the fan cooling. This limits my prints to 450-480mm/s. Now let that sink in,... 480mm/s with a 500$ Frankenstein Ender 3 V2 and Orca Slicer ;)
Glad to see someone else still rocking the OG/Pro Ender 3! Might I suggest going for the Belt Driven Ender 3 by KevinAkaSam for Switchwire-like performance. :)
I just did this mod but with a different kit that had extra adapters for my direct drive setup. While the installation was really easy, I did take on the fiddly task of cleaning all the engineering gunk off the rail and the carriage, including all the bearings. re-lubricated and put back together and it feels like it's just floating on air but absolutely rock solid stable! I'm sold on them now so will be upgrading the Z & Y over the next few months as well. :)
It stepped it up, right? This can still be good printers with some work. I’m going to be building an Ender NG live on this page once all of the parts come in. Make sure to check it out!
I see you still level your bed manually. In klipper there is a very useful feature called screw tilt adjust which is very easy to configure. It will probe above the bed leveling screws and tell you how moch to turn them!
Nice Video! Little tip with the bed calibration. If you run Klipper setup screws_tilt_adjust that thing saved me so much time. Anyways, I'm ordering X and Y Rails now. That will pretty much max out my small ender 3 v2
I’m definitely going with the Y kit soon. I’ll do a step by step when I set it up. The screws_tilt_adjust is an awesome tip. Thanks for sharing it ❤️❤️
Now getting back into 3D printing after troubles at home had put a stop to it. Before getting the Ender 3 pro up and running, I am gonna give it some upgrades. Currently have the CR touch on order. Thanks for the videos to give me some more ideas. Keep up the great work from the UK 👍🏻
Lol. There are so many efficient printers out of the box these days, the old Enders seem like a waste of time, but if you got one, you can still make it rock! But I feel you, lol!
I'd like to see a video on the details of that test, might be helpful in diagnosing issues I have been having with my printers lol. Keep up the good work man!
This looks sick ! I still have pom wheels on the X and Y axis, but i upgraded the Z axis to be belt driven. BRO, I cannot convey the emotion I felt after the first print after that mod!! No more Z banding, No more Z hop issues, it's smooth and works like a charm. If you upgrade the Z axis too, get rid of the rods and go to the belt side of life ;) All the other axis are belts anyways !
Bro, you got a new subscriber! Can you show us how to tune ender 3 for fast printing running klipper? there are many tutorials out there but having one single crash course video with calibration prints to run, would be amazing!
Absolutely!! I got you. I’m working on a few things with the AnyCubic Kobra Max Right Now, but I definitely will create Klipper/Calibration Video. For the Ender 3! Thank you so much for joining the journey!
Very helpful. Well done on the video. I'm considering a two-head printer as I print parts for an artist's easel I manufacture. The parts have cantilevered portions that require support, so I'd like to have a second head to print the water-soluble supports. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Glad you found the video helpful. When it comes to multi colored printing any Bambulab Printer with an AMS unit would be the best bet. As long as you go with BambuLab filaments and and water soluble filament, you should have a seemless experience printing with them. The AMS unit is sensitive to the size of the filament roll and can get jammed. Solutions to using other filaments are printing adapters to place around your rolls, rerolling aftermarket filaments in a bambulab roller or modding the AMS unit. I know that’s a lot of info lol, but I want you to have a successful experience.
Sorry for the late response. I definitely like to use Klipper. It’s the ease of adjusting the printer cfg file without extra software. Also there are a lot of custom code modifications created by users that give your 3D printer extra features. I’m also one who likes testing the limits of my printer. Klipper just allows me to do that a bit easier than marlin.
I already run my Ender 3 at 10,000 accelerations on the X and Y axis. I'm sure I can run the X axis higher now. The accelerometer test gave me a higher frequency reading on the X compared to the Y. Right now, the linear rail on the X axis is acting as a speed stress reliever rather than a speed bump up untill I change out the Y axis... if that makes any sense lol.
I don't have the crtouch but it might be related and could help someone - to fix this issue without crtouch I just moved my Y axis stop sensor to accommodate this offset, it means I get to use my entire bed still, don't need to worry about offsets, and its literally loosening 2 screws, sliding the sensor to correct position and retightening. Simple effective fix.
Really well-done vid, can't believe you're under 1k subs!
Hella underrated, hope your channel blows up one day (as much as one can, in the 3d printing space)
I'm really liking how clean and organized your videos and setup is. It makes it easier to focus on the subject and understand instructions. 👏
Thank you so much. I definitely appreciate it!!
Ive got an old and used Ender 3 V2. I installed a full linear rail kit for x, y and z axes, installed a dual z drive, installed the sprite extruder pro, bought a new magnetic pei plate plus a smooth one, and flashed it with klipper using a sonic pad. Overall I paid about $500 for it. But it was fun to build it. Now on top of it, I ran some macros with speed tests, figuring out, that I can safely use 900mm/s during print without overheating, losing steps on the motors or disassembly. The only problem now is the fan cooling. This limits my prints to 450-480mm/s. Now let that sink in,... 480mm/s with a 500$ Frankenstein Ender 3 V2 and Orca Slicer ;)
Glad to see someone else still rocking the OG/Pro Ender 3! Might I suggest going for the Belt Driven Ender 3 by KevinAkaSam for Switchwire-like performance. :)
I am going to do a live build of an Ender NG once I print and gather all of the parts
I just did this mod but with a different kit that had extra adapters for my direct drive setup. While the installation was really easy, I did take on the fiddly task of cleaning all the engineering gunk off the rail and the carriage, including all the bearings. re-lubricated and put back together and it feels like it's just floating on air but absolutely rock solid stable!
I'm sold on them now so will be upgrading the Z & Y over the next few months as well. :)
Absolutely. They move so smoothly after the upgrade
I put a linear rail on the x axis of my S1 Pro. This combined with better cooling took my printer from borderline junk to a halfway decent machine.
It stepped it up, right? This can still be good printers with some work. I’m going to be building an Ender NG live on this page once all of the parts come in. Make sure to check it out!
just saw that you were fairly new to youtube. this is good stuff! i look forward to seeing more in the future!
Thank you Matt. Glad you like the video
I see you still level your bed manually. In klipper there is a very useful feature called screw tilt adjust which is very easy to configure. It will probe above the bed leveling screws and tell you how moch to turn them!
Hey there. Yea I’ve been using that command recently. It definitely is a major time saver!
Thanks Flubber..I just got klipper. I am also doing manual bed leveling😂. Thanks for sharing ❤
Just tried..it works 👍yeah. On my machine is Screws_Tilt_Calculate type on the console. 0.02,0.01,0.03..Thanks bro ❤
Nice Video!
Little tip with the bed calibration. If you run Klipper setup screws_tilt_adjust that thing saved me so much time.
Anyways, I'm ordering X and Y Rails now. That will pretty much max out my small ender 3 v2
I’m definitely going with the Y kit soon. I’ll do a step by step when I set it up. The screws_tilt_adjust is an awesome tip. Thanks for sharing it ❤️❤️
Now getting back into 3D printing after troubles at home had put a stop to it. Before getting the Ender 3 pro up and running, I am gonna give it some upgrades. Currently have the CR touch on order.
Thanks for the videos to give me some more ideas. Keep up the great work from the UK 👍🏻
Thank you so much!
pretty cool, This is like the final mod I have to do on my E 3 neo
Thanks. It’s going to be the final mod to all of my bedslingers
The best upgrade I made for my Ender 3 S1 Pro was converting it to an artificial reef in the bottom of the Pacific Ocean. 😂
Lol. There are so many efficient printers out of the box these days, the old Enders seem like a waste of time, but if you got one, you can still make it rock! But I feel you, lol!
For y axis I use some of those 3m wall hook adhesive pads that has the pull tab to release the attached item, to hold the sensor.. Light and strong.
That’s a great idea. I have to retest my AnyCubic Kobra Max. I think I’ll try that
I'd like to see a video on the details of that test, might be helpful in diagnosing issues I have been having with my printers lol. Keep up the good work man!
Thanks Roger. I’ll put a video out soon on the resonance test and I’ll put my slicer settings in the description
This looks sick !
I still have pom wheels on the X and Y axis, but i upgraded the Z axis to be belt driven. BRO, I cannot convey the emotion I felt after the first print after that mod!! No more Z banding, No more Z hop issues, it's smooth and works like a charm. If you upgrade the Z axis too, get rid of the rods and go to the belt side of life ;) All the other axis are belts anyways !
Belts definitely seem the better path for the Z axis. Thank you for the info
great video. It's really help me a lot.
I like your Videos, keep up the work
Thank you so much! I’m glad you liked the video
Bro, you got a new subscriber! Can you show us how to tune ender 3 for fast printing running klipper? there are many tutorials out there but having one single crash course video with calibration prints to run, would be amazing!
Absolutely!! I got you. I’m working on a few things with the AnyCubic Kobra Max Right Now, but I definitely will create Klipper/Calibration Video. For the Ender 3! Thank you so much for joining the journey!
Great video, good production !!
Thank you so much. I’m glad you liked it
Love the video.
Thank you so much Kyle!
Looking to add these to mine
Very helpful. Well done on the video. I'm considering a two-head printer as I print parts for an artist's easel I manufacture. The parts have cantilevered portions that require support, so I'd like to have a second head to print the water-soluble supports. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Glad you found the video helpful. When it comes to multi colored printing any Bambulab Printer with an AMS unit would be the best bet. As long as you go with BambuLab filaments and and water soluble filament, you should have a seemless experience printing with them. The AMS unit is sensitive to the size of the filament roll and can get jammed. Solutions to using other filaments are printing adapters to place around your rolls, rerolling aftermarket filaments in a bambulab roller or modding the AMS unit. I know that’s a lot of info lol, but I want you to have a successful experience.
How did you set up your sonic pad? I have a nearly identical setup to yours but I can't figure out how to fix the bl touch going of the end
I see a lot of chatter about Klipper vs Marlin, I haven't made the jump to Klipper yet, is it worth the pain of rebuilding/reflashing?
Sorry for the late response. I definitely like to use Klipper. It’s the ease of adjusting the printer cfg file without extra software. Also there are a lot of custom code modifications created by users that give your 3D printer extra features. I’m also one who likes testing the limits of my printer. Klipper just allows me to do that a bit easier than marlin.
Never understood why not upgrade the y axis too, get rid of wheels all together
I definitely am. Just ordered the kit
@@JeDoVi3D Sweet, looking forward to seeing the upgrades.
Thank you!
Am I the only one that has 2 Ender 3 Pros with the Pad Mini upgrade?
It’s definitely a cool upgrade. But, I updated to Klipper through the Sonic pad, so I just use that screen.
Thanks for a great video.
Of course. Thank you for the great comment. I’m glad you liked the video!
Great content. 👍
Thank so much. Glad you like the content!
and how much more acceleration can you get out of it compared to v slot wheels
I already run my Ender 3 at 10,000 accelerations on the X and Y axis. I'm sure I can run the X axis higher now. The accelerometer test gave me a higher frequency reading on the X compared to the Y. Right now, the linear rail on the X axis is acting as a speed stress reliever rather than a speed bump up untill I change out the Y axis... if that makes any sense lol.
Wanna go faster?
Install dual motor on both X and Y.
I installed the rails for x and z axis but the crtouch is too far away from the bed (x axis) 😂
You’re going to have to change your printing parameters in your printer.config file. Are you using Marlin or Klipper?
I don't have the crtouch but it might be related and could help someone - to fix this issue without crtouch I just moved my Y axis stop sensor to accommodate this offset, it means I get to use my entire bed still, don't need to worry about offsets, and its literally loosening 2 screws, sliding the sensor to correct position and retightening. Simple effective fix.