you are THE BEST youtuber on 3D printers. PERIOD. You give the REAL advice, not like these oh they sent me this oh they send me that. FIX the one you have cmon man.
Great video, mine from 2019 is still printing great, I print mostly ABS. With an SKR mini E3 v1.2, metal extruder, BLtouch clone and capricorn tubing, I easily get 100mm/s and 800mm/s³ accel. PS: 2:45 You should back off the screw, it should not be touching the motor shaft and should be above the middle notch of the coupler, an easy way is to insert the spatula that came with the printer in the middle notch then insert the screw, it will make sure it stays above the notch.
My original Ender 3 is working just as good today as it did when I first started using it 3 years ago. I’m still using my modded Anet A8 from 7 years ago.
@@enosunim The Anet A8 got a lot of people started printing, and having to assemble it helped to learn the basics and parts of a printer. It’s also the printer that Joel Telling (3D Printing Nerd) got his start.
? I purchased your best profile. I was hopping that it would fix the print speeds. The ender 3 stays at one speed and dose slow down at all even though in the software it’s in there. And thoughts?
Great video! Although you should never try to move any motor quickly causing them to generate electricity that feeds back to the main board and can fry the board. I've done that very thing my first printer. Move slowly. Newer boards have feedback circuitry to prevent this. I didn't believe yours does since I saw you LCD screen light up. Great video, I was thinking of snagging a used Ender 3 with a fried main board for$50. Easy fix
Great video! As an Ender 3 user I should say it is 90% accurate and usefull! I would suggest upgrade feeder to BeMeGe (can be printed and use BMG replacement parts) (or K3d minifeeder and making a DD) I would not recommend tighten bed springs too tight as this will deform the bed. Also you can make surface even with aluminium sticky foil. Just apply it in lower regions. Also I would suggest add PEI magnetic sheet. There is a lifehack if you bed keeps unscrewing, you can put bed spring knobs upside down, so they will be very tight and will not unscrew on its own. Also you should not move print parts so fast you motherboard can go out. Also I suggest making directdrive and upgrading your firmware, applying input shaping and linear advance. So you can print up to 100mm/s with no problem (and may be higher, but I print PETG and it is no always print good after 90mm/s) No need for Klipper firmware and all that Pie and Linux stuff (which is not bad at all, but not for everyone for sure). Marlin is sufficient.
I think these are all great points, and if followed + some key parts will have them printing for several years more. I think you’ def have to install a Capricorn PTFE tube and swap out the original bed for a PEI or other metal’ bed (re the VOC’s/smell). Replace those OEM springs with the orange ones like yours makes a huge difference. Print 4 wheel locks, to keep them from loosening after leveling helps too. Otherwise, no reason not to keep using, time/speed is the biggest factor for some, yet mine are still used all the time, esp for large prints and/or masks/helmets or whatever. I have 3 Ender 3’s, ($99.00 each/Microcenter) 2 CR-10’s, an Ankermake M5 (ugh) + a Saturn resin printer I’m learning to use and have a purpose/use for each. Thanks for your videos +1 subscriber.
DISCONNECT ALL THE WIRE TO THE M0TOR BEFORE DOING ANYTHING LIKE MOVING THE PRINT HEAD TO FAST OR MOVING THE Z AXCES, because it will send out a current to the main board and might short it. i have burned 2 motherboard just like that, the monitor lighting up when you more thing by your hand is a sight of that. move it slowly or disconnect the wires to the motors of your moving them fast with your hands while doing repaires. I am horroble with spelling please ignore my mistakes
Btw - WD40 is not really a lubricant, it displaces water. Much, much better off to use a spray can of white grease or other lubricant if at all possible/available - just an FYI
![Chino Pacas - Modo Capone (with Drake & Fuerza Regida) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zjv8TQ0gBkg/mqdefault.jpg)
you are THE BEST youtuber on 3D printers. PERIOD. You give the REAL advice, not like these oh they sent me this oh they send me that. FIX the one you have cmon man.
Great video, mine from 2019 is still printing great, I print mostly ABS. With an SKR mini E3 v1.2, metal extruder, BLtouch clone and capricorn tubing, I easily get 100mm/s and 800mm/s³ accel.
PS: 2:45 You should back off the screw, it should not be touching the motor shaft and should be above the middle notch of the coupler, an easy way is to insert the spatula that came with the printer in the middle notch then insert the screw, it will make sure it stays above the notch.
SKR Mini E3 is cool... !
My original Ender 3 is working just as good today as it did when I first started using it 3 years ago. I’m still using my modded Anet A8 from 7 years ago.
Hey! Anet A8 is a great part of 3d printer history! I started from Ender 3 though. Do not see much from new printers.
@@enosunim The Anet A8 got a lot of people started printing, and having to assemble it helped to learn the basics and parts of a printer. It’s also the printer that Joel Telling (3D Printing Nerd) got his start.
Thank You! Yeah we love the Anet too.. cheap and decent. Recently donated it to an education institution
? I purchased your best profile. I was hopping that it would fix the print speeds.
The ender 3 stays at one speed and dose slow down at all even though in the software it’s in there.
And thoughts?
Great video! Although you should never try to move any motor quickly causing them to generate electricity that feeds back to the main board and can fry the board. I've done that very thing my first printer. Move slowly. Newer boards have feedback circuitry to prevent this. I didn't believe yours does since I saw you LCD screen light up. Great video, I was thinking of snagging a used Ender 3 with a fried main board for$50. Easy fix
Thanks for the comment and great tip!! I will be mindful next time. Cheers...
Great video! As an Ender 3 user I should say it is 90% accurate and usefull!
I would suggest upgrade feeder to BeMeGe (can be printed and use BMG replacement parts) (or K3d minifeeder and making a DD)
I would not recommend tighten bed springs too tight as this will deform the bed. Also you can make surface even with aluminium sticky foil. Just apply it in lower regions.
Also I would suggest add PEI magnetic sheet.
There is a lifehack if you bed keeps unscrewing, you can put bed spring knobs upside down, so they will be very tight and will not unscrew on its own.
Also you should not move print parts so fast you motherboard can go out.
Also I suggest making directdrive and upgrading your firmware, applying input shaping and linear advance. So you can print up to 100mm/s with no problem (and may be higher, but I print PETG and it is no always print good after 90mm/s)
No need for Klipper firmware and all that Pie and Linux stuff (which is not bad at all, but not for everyone for sure). Marlin is sufficient.
Thank You. Will check it out !
I think these are all great points, and if followed + some key parts will have them printing for several years more.
I think you’ def have to install a Capricorn PTFE tube and swap out the original bed for a PEI or other metal’ bed (re the VOC’s/smell).
Replace those OEM springs with the orange ones like yours makes a huge difference.
Print 4 wheel locks, to keep them from loosening after leveling helps too.
Otherwise, no reason not to keep using, time/speed is the biggest factor for some, yet mine are still used all the time, esp for large prints and/or masks/helmets or whatever.
I have 3 Ender 3’s, ($99.00 each/Microcenter) 2 CR-10’s, an Ankermake M5 (ugh) + a Saturn resin printer I’m learning to use and have a purpose/use for each.
Thanks for your videos +1 subscriber.
Thank You.. Yes!! PEI is next, still in shipping and I can't wait for it. Hehehehe
Thank You !
DISCONNECT ALL THE WIRE TO THE M0TOR BEFORE DOING ANYTHING LIKE MOVING THE PRINT HEAD TO FAST OR MOVING THE Z AXCES, because it will send out a current to the main board and might short it. i have burned 2 motherboard just like that, the monitor lighting up when you more thing by your hand is a sight of that. move it slowly or disconnect the wires to the motors of your moving them fast with your hands while doing repaires. I am horroble with spelling please ignore my mistakes
Great Video
Thank You !!
Actually really good video
Thank you !
Bagus sekali!
mantap !
Bagus!
Btw - WD40 is not really a lubricant, it displaces water. Much, much better off to use a spray can of white grease or other lubricant if at all possible/available - just an FYI
We did not use the WD40 multiuse product.. These are specific White Lithium Grease, PTFE Dry Lube and Silicon Lube by WD40 company.