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A Z rod guide is never a good idea. A slight wobbling is usually not an issue but if you force that wobble through a guide, it will definitely end up showing itself in your prints. Just let it wobble as long as the steps are OK
@@bobh0905 The ones creality sell do not do exactly that. I have the creality ones as they came with my Dual Z-axis kit for my 3 Pro, The ones printed in the video are a solid stiff piece of plastic that forces the rod into a position. The creality ones have a bearing inside that can actually move around, they are held in place by springs on the inside I believe, but they are just light enough that the rod can push the spring if it needs to. It keeps them straight with wiggle room, printed ones do not and could damage the rod that way.
@@bobh0905 yeah but what I was trying to say was that the bearing can be moved around by the rod on the inside of the creality one, the printed ones keep the bearing in a static place
Constraining the z-rod like that might be a very bad idea, basically these printers were designed for it to be unconstrained, if your rod is not straight then that is because either it's bend or held in place wrong and there can be several place where it can be held wrong.
@@engineericly Hello. I am Turning to you because I need help. I have lost everything. Family job home. I sleep on street and gave 200 in cash left. I am not asking for money. I am asking for a job. Maybe i can join your team and be a good right hand... please give me a chance...
The bubble leveler serves no prupose. You tram the printer, not level it. The grip handle reduced your max build height. Idk why you stopped at the z extrusions for the slot covers. The z rod stabilizer is iffy. Everything else is nice.
Push the Y axis up and down with your hands and you will find that not having a double Z axis gives the bubble leveler some sense. It's only a monitoring sensor, just in case you're finding strange values in bed tramming, and you understand that the problem is Y axis level.
@@urgamecshk it “destroys” it by constraining it. Constraining it for too long will eventually cause stress bends, especially if you’re continuously printing tall prints, and even more so if you have direct drive. A bent rod is useless and is considered “destroyed”.
@@sonicsupersam7793 causing unnecessary strain, if the rod is displaced by that much and it causes you problems, it’s better to try to fix the alignment where it’s held, not to add another one.
Buy a proper bearing block and couple it with a spider coupling to the stepper.. The right way.. Oh and for the love of god don't sit a hot stepper on fecking plastic 😂
the z stepper spacer is only needed if you have misaligned motors, which were common in the original ender 3 v1s. It might do more damage to Ender 3 v2's
When assembled (correctly), my z-axis drive screw was not parallel with the vertical riser. I carefully sanded about .015" off of one edge of the z-axis stepper bracket to make it align. That bracket appears to be flawed, and it's a flimsy attachment. Once the drive screw was properly aligned, the printer worked well. I am considering trying those printed shims (although I'm not having print problems now). It seems like an improvement.
the very first thing you should do to an ender 3 v2 is to print a new PSU cover. you can see at 1:58 the big plate at the bottom of the machine that has some missalligned slots for the fan but **NO** vents for the air to go anywhere. under the black aluminum plate there are vents that are completely covered up by the black plate. remove that if you don't want your printer to go up in flames one day lol
for me the most important upgrade that i actually had to make was the spacer for the z axis motor, when i assembled mine, the assembly could only go up for a little and then it would start grinding and then get stuck, as soon as i put a spacer on for the motor i had zero issues
I started printing around a month ago and 1 thing I absolutely recommend to use for the bed are dial locks. I found a file for them on thinigiverse my first week of printing bc I instantly got tired of dealing with the bed. I have not had to level it again in about 2-3 weeks. Every print first layer is perfect as long as bed is clean. I never see any channel or anybody suggest them. Is there a downside to using them?
hey, there shouldn't be a downside as the bed dials shouldn't rotate. As long as they don't interfere with any moving part you will be good. (p.s. can you send that link, I have been looking for one)
Terrific video. I will probably only use a couple of the items though: The bed pull, and the dial knob with "wings" for speedy scrolling. I moved my filament roll to the side of my printer, so it feeds directly into the extruder, so I don't need a filament guide. Rather than the side storage bin, I'll probably build a camera mount there.
@@Noise_H well the guards for the extrusions are ok, bl touch, maybe the capricorn tubing and then i dont remember anything else that would be that useful
Great video, I dont know if they have changed the length of the bolts used for the top brackets, but they are not long enough to be able to screw into the top bar with the spool attachment. It should be a simple fix of just sanding the base down a bit, but id thought id comment just in case some other person is running into this issue. All in all I love these mods and most are such a nice improvement of life upgrade.
@Russell White Yeah, the bed tab is crap, as its linked to your springs, you will mess up your level every time you touch it. Agreed on the dual part cooling duct.
Just got my first 3D printer (Ender 3 V2). I am excited to print some of these myself. What filament did you use? That color looks like it matched the default knobs very well. Thank you for linking the files!
First 10 min of the vid are a waste. It looks nice and customised. But almost everything on it has no use. You want as less as possible items dangeling on there. The spiral. Dont restrain it. Someone else allready said it. The feet. Keep em like they are. Sturdy and absorbing some of the vibration. I whouldn't even use the spatula to get prints off. Glass expands when it's warm. Then let it cool off and print's just pop off. (No scratches) The usefull upgrades start with the yellow bed springs. And the bl touch. These are propper upgrades. If you are gonna mod the filament holder. Try looking for the one with the bearings that fit in. Result is less friction and less stress on the extruder. Also get the metal extruder. And yes the bowden tube. Capricorn.also good. As for alot of upgrades. Try the assemble vid of "a tomb of 3d horrors" And you won't even need em your printer will be better alligned and therefor nicer prints from the start. One of the best upgrades in my eyes is octoprint with a raspberry pi. That way I can leave the house and keep an eye on my prints and even force it to stop. (Yes its better to stay at home but some prints take time. For a more personal touch. Yes print the strips and click them in. But you don't need a handle. If you are gonna move your printer around it will only get out of allignment and need new tweaks again to get propper prints. It reminds me of a over customized car (wich is a personal choice) but it doesn't do the performance any good. After sounding only negative. I do like the video and the way it's shot. I looks professional. So sorry for sounding like a compleet douche.
@@Robin-Visser you are putting pressure on the rails and are ever so slightly introducing misalignments. This will cause your prints to come out less than perfect; and the Ender 3 V2 is capable of producing print quality that equals that of $2,750 dollar printers -- if aligned and tensioned PERFECTLY.
@@Alucard0715 Can you guarantee those feet will come out flat out of the printer? No, because most pieces of glass are not flat. The stock feet will compensate since they're made of foam. Maybe if you print yours out of flexible filament. But if vibrations are a problem for you, I suggest putting the printer on top of a cement slab.
5:43 Watch out with the spool holder, I tried one and it broke during a print after only a few hours of use, almost ruining my entire print! Either try printing a reeeeaaally sturdy one or just let it be
Hi, thanks for this video! I'm just now seeing this video and I've purchased an ender 3 v2. Not sure if there's already a follow up video on this channel, but seeing as its been 6 months, it would be great if you could share your experience with the mods - do you still use all the mods shown here? are there any mods that negatively affected the performance and also any that dramatically improved the performance? Thanks!
Ideally, you should have 100 hours of print time with the printer on its stock configuration before changing stuff, otherwise troubleshooting later is a nightmare because you have no known working setup to measure against if something goes wrong.
First of all. This Black/Blue Style is fantastic. Maybe that's cause blue is my favorite color. Some questions: 1. ) I heard a good upgrade would be the metallic feeder?, too. 2. ) I read the AUtobed Leveling doesn't work on the Ender V2, or is there a special V2 Version? I look forward to buy this Printer as my first one next month. SO I definitely need blue Filament, how much kg do I need for all those parts? Greetings from Germany.
Hello, 1) Yes it is great upgrade 2) It works with latest versions, for old versions I don't know, but you should upgrade its firmware, you can use following one, I loved its functions: github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases 1KG filament will be more than enough, but be sure that your blue color is the same with color of parts that comes with the printer in stock, so you get great accent
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you could have put links to print files.
@@MerchantNation Hey, I have put links in video description already, please take a look🙂
@@engineericly the links are not showing up for me on the items printed. I have looked multiple times.
@@jasonnelson9909 they are there tho?
Which BL auto leveling kit do you get? When I open the link there are 2 different
Products on there.
The finished product reminds me of an old episode of The Simpsons where Homer designed a car for his brother's company.
I love that episode! xD
@@VideoAssaultSaturday Me too..... One of my favorites!
LOL
Canyonero!!!
When I rev the engine I want people to think the world is coming to an end!
A Z rod guide is never a good idea. A slight wobbling is usually not an issue but if you force that wobble through a guide, it will definitely end up showing itself in your prints. Just let it wobble as long as the steps are OK
And yet Creality sell an attachment to do exactly that.
@@bobh0905 Creality also sells the product that ‘needs’ it. They are selling the problem and solution
@@bobh0905 The ones creality sell do not do exactly that. I have the creality ones as they came with my Dual Z-axis kit for my 3 Pro, The ones printed in the video are a solid stiff piece of plastic that forces the rod into a position. The creality ones have a bearing inside that can actually move around, they are held in place by springs on the inside I believe, but they are just light enough that the rod can push the spring if it needs to. It keeps them straight with wiggle room, printed ones do not and could damage the rod that way.
@@nytem979 The printed ones I've seen have a hole for a bearing.
@@bobh0905 yeah but what I was trying to say was that the bearing can be moved around by the rod on the inside of the creality one, the printed ones keep the bearing in a static place
Constraining the z-rod like that might be a very bad idea, basically these printers were designed for it to be unconstrained, if your rod is not straight then that is because either it's bend or held in place wrong and there can be several place where it can be held wrong.
Thank you!
So I shouldn’t make the spacer
@@Noise_H No you shouldn’t, it could severely mess up your z axis.
@@engineericly Hello. I am Turning to you because I need help. I have lost everything. Family job home. I sleep on street and gave 200 in cash left. I am not asking for money. I am asking for a job. Maybe i can join your team and be a good right hand... please give me a chance...
@@gernotg8480 My dude you are better off getting an entry level job in a restaurant than begging on RUclips.
The bubble leveler serves no prupose. You tram the printer, not level it. The grip handle reduced your max build height. Idk why you stopped at the z extrusions for the slot covers. The z rod stabilizer is iffy. Everything else is nice.
Push the Y axis up and down with your hands and you will find that not having a double Z axis gives the bubble leveler some sense. It's only a monitoring sensor, just in case you're finding strange values in bed tramming, and you understand that the problem is Y axis level.
To the content creator and anyone else watching, 04:15 to 04:30, do NOT ever do this. This will damage your Z axis rod.
Came looking for this comment. I don't know anything about 3D printing but common sense was telling me this could potentially be a bad idea.
Yes because plastic will destroy a steel lead screw 🤔🤔🤔
@@urgamecshk it will not damage the steel, but constraining the z axis rod will result in shit prints. It is designed to be able move to some degree.
@@nikohugger9097 I'm not the one who said it would!
@@urgamecshk it “destroys” it by constraining it. Constraining it for too long will eventually cause stress bends, especially if you’re continuously printing tall prints, and even more so if you have direct drive. A bent rod is useless and is considered “destroyed”.
4:10 don't do that, this will cause more problems than it "solves"
Not doubting you, just curious what problems it may cause?
@@sonicsupersam7793 causing unnecessary strain, if the rod is displaced by that much and it causes you problems, it’s better to try to fix the alignment where it’s held, not to add another one.
Buy a proper bearing block and couple it with a spider coupling to the stepper.. The right way.. Oh and for the love of god don't sit a hot stepper on fecking plastic 😂
This feels like the equivalent of someone ricing out their old civic lol
the z stepper spacer is only needed if you have misaligned motors, which were common in the original ender 3 v1s. It might do more damage to Ender 3 v2's
Yes though I gotta say mine needed a really small shim of 1mm behind the motor.
When assembled (correctly), my z-axis drive screw was not parallel with the vertical riser. I carefully sanded about .015" off of one edge of the z-axis stepper bracket to make it align. That bracket appears to be flawed, and it's a flimsy attachment. Once the drive screw was properly aligned, the printer worked well. I am considering trying those printed shims (although I'm not having print problems now). It seems like an improvement.
Yeh don't print spacers for a stepper that regularly reaches upto 95-100°c. What a stupid suggestion
@@brett567 I think that your stepper might just need it if it reaches 95-100°
A simpler solution would be replacing the rigid coupler for a flexible one.
That was some of the most useless things I’ve ever seen someone add to a printer
Mostly for aesthetics but that’s half the fun of owning a printer is making stuff for your printer
I feel bad cause I'm sure he really enjoyed making this video but yeah
@@zombiefarm3561 you know its bad when a comment like this crops up
@@Taeleus yeeeah
So add a hate comment repellent into my printer
Huh
Noted.
the very first thing you should do to an ender 3 v2 is to print a new PSU cover. you can see at 1:58 the big plate at the bottom of the machine that has some missalligned slots for the fan but **NO** vents for the air to go anywhere. under the black aluminum plate there are vents that are completely covered up by the black plate. remove that if you don't want your printer to go up in flames one day lol
@@KonigKlack ruclips.net/video/9e-2i5WE-gI/видео.html
I did this but also added an 80mm noctua fan at the same time
9:02 essential if you need to increase speed.
How so?
for me the most important upgrade that i actually had to make was the spacer for the z axis motor, when i assembled mine, the assembly could only go up for a little and then it would start grinding and then get stuck, as soon as i put a spacer on for the motor i had zero issues
That's nice, I remember printing upgrades for a 2 weeks straight for my first 3d, years ago. Good times
WOW!! major Pimpin out the Ender!! 🤙🤙🤙
I started printing around a month ago and 1 thing I absolutely recommend to use for the bed are dial locks. I found a file for them on thinigiverse my first week of printing bc I instantly got tired of dealing with the bed. I have not had to level it again in about 2-3 weeks. Every print first layer is perfect as long as bed is clean.
I never see any channel or anybody suggest them. Is there a downside to using them?
hey, there shouldn't be a downside as the bed dials shouldn't rotate. As long as they don't interfere with any moving part you will be good. (p.s. can you send that link, I have been looking for one)
I couldn't find any stl's that had decent download numbers. Would you mind sharing the link?
ender three v2 is SUCH A GOOD PRINTER! i love it
Videolar sifatiga gap yo'q, zo'r ketvos !!, birinchi o'zbekcha comment mendan ))
Terrific video. I will probably only use a couple of the items though: The bed pull, and the dial knob with "wings" for speedy scrolling. I moved my filament roll to the side of my printer, so it feeds directly into the extruder, so I don't need a filament guide. Rather than the side storage bin, I'll probably build a camera mount there.
Can you share the thingverse code for the side filament mount? Thanks!
I see 2 useful upgrades like always wit this type of video
What are those, I’ve only made the V slots and I’m new to 3D printing so what are they?
@@Noise_H well the guards for the extrusions are ok, bl touch, maybe the capricorn tubing and then i dont remember anything else that would be that useful
@@Noise_H tho if u change the tube might aswell change to an all metal hotend
The bubble level actually made me cry!
I couldn't help but laugh at the absurdity of it.
Thanks for all the links.. worked perfectly
Great video, I dont know if they have changed the length of the bolts used for the top brackets, but they are not long enough to be able to screw into the top bar with the spool attachment. It should be a simple fix of just sanding the base down a bit, but id thought id comment just in case some other person is running into this issue. All in all I love these mods and most are such a nice improvement of life upgrade.
I had this same issue today, wish I saw this comment sooner lol
@@Goodvibez_live I did the same thing toda, and I wish I saw it sooner to.
The level indicator is in a useless position there as the plastic part can pivot to begin with
@Russell White Yeah, the bed tab is crap, as its linked to your springs, you will mess up your level every time you touch it. Agreed on the dual part cooling duct.
@@Foxy_proxy It's not linked to the springs...
One of the best upgrades is the ender 3 belted z by Kevin. Period.
Why? Smoother operations?
quick note, most of these upgrades should work for the voxelab Aquila series of printers. As I'm pretty sure they're based on a ender 3 V2
the ultimate "I got a printer for fun and don't know what to do with it" guide
the only useful upgrades in this are the ones that aren't printed lmao
Just got my first 3D printer (Ender 3 V2). I am excited to print some of these myself. What filament did you use? That color looks like it matched the default knobs very well. Thank you for linking the files!
There is no fucking link…
@@rexiem2018 all the links to the files in the description. Try to read before becoming Hulk
@@nelsonmarques1334 what filament was used?
@@Foodran probably PLA. Usually on the thingiverse links, they will advise on what filament to print
@@nelsonmarques1334 okay thank you
very nice video man
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice that you have made a list with all of the links included man! Thanks for sharing.
Great video and useful upgrades!!!!! Thanks!!!!!
Glad you like them!
Человек купил принтер чтобы печатать тюнинг для принтера . браво маркетологи
good video, good machine , good upgrades
For the filament guide, I can't get it to spin as you have it. What are the settings that you have for it?
Super Hilfreich , Danke
Hello! I would like to know if the addition of the BL sensor and the firmware, makes bed leveling automatic, or do you adjust the bed. Thank you!
Im so glad you talk in your videos man no one does and i hate it half of them got their moc on and just dont talk
Yes very good presentation music is chill and nice set up 👍👍👍
Thank you!
MINUTE 8:16......WHICH SPRAY HAVE YOU USED? IT'S AMAZING
Creality just finished implementing all the community upgrades to the Ender 3 V2 and now you upgrade it even more. lol
This video is a very good recap of fundamental upgrades. Thanks
LoL this feels like WoW all over again, "my bags are full I need bigger bags."...."damn it" ;)
4:27 not a good idea
First 10 min of the vid are a waste. It looks nice and customised. But almost everything on it has no use. You want as less as possible items dangeling on there.
The spiral. Dont restrain it. Someone else allready said it.
The feet. Keep em like they are. Sturdy and absorbing some of the vibration.
I whouldn't even use the spatula to get prints off.
Glass expands when it's warm. Then let it cool off and print's just pop off. (No scratches)
The usefull upgrades start with the yellow bed springs.
And the bl touch.
These are propper upgrades.
If you are gonna mod the filament holder. Try looking for the one with the bearings that fit in. Result is less friction and less stress on the extruder.
Also get the metal extruder.
And yes the bowden tube. Capricorn.also good.
As for alot of upgrades.
Try the assemble vid of "a tomb of 3d horrors"
And you won't even need em your printer will be better alligned and therefor nicer prints from the start.
One of the best upgrades in my eyes is octoprint with a raspberry pi.
That way I can leave the house and keep an eye on my prints and even force it to stop. (Yes its better to stay at home but some prints take time.
For a more personal touch. Yes print the strips and click them in. But you don't need a handle. If you are gonna move your printer around it will only get out of allignment and need new tweaks again to get propper prints.
It reminds me of a over customized car (wich is a personal choice) but it doesn't do the performance any good.
After sounding only negative. I do like the video and the way it's shot. I looks professional.
So sorry for sounding like a compleet douche.
alternative title: I put a shit ton of things on my printer
What brand of filament do you use?
all metal hot end....
linear rail on all axes....
drag chain...
direct drive....
dual Z motor....
UGh.. and so much more... ✌️✌️✌️
nice work tho...
Thanks for recommendations, Indeed ender 3 series has so high potential for customization!
Do these upgrades work on the Ender 3 V2 Neo? Thx very much for your assistance!
very helpful thank you very much dude!
Love your channel keep up the work!
W guy W vid overall huge W
thank´s men 👍
this video is oddly satisfying
LMAO I thought I was the only one to use the backside of the glass printbed
Are all these add-ons REALLY NECESSARY?
great job sir...ive just got the ender 3 v2 and ur video is helpful
Thanks for the video!! Could you please do a video on installing the bltouch and the software updates required?
Deserves a like just because I can’t imagine how much time you spent re leveling your printer during the making of this video lmao.
Finally i been waiting for this, my exam is going to end on 23 so I'll dm u that day, anyways nicely done🔥💕😍👍
How did it go?
@@YeetDisDude in 3 years i failed 3 times now this year i finally have Chance to pass , wish me luck 💕👍
Hey, what did you use when you removed the v Slot covers from the heated Bed?
It was super glue accelerator, to cool the model so it pops right off!
Love all the mods. Looking forward to trying them out when I get my Ender next week. Prefer an orange color to the blue though. Thanks
wow good job man
what color filament did you use and what brand
Salam alykum bro thanks for this amazing video
any useful mod suggestions?
In another era you'd have been a huge fan of J. C. Whitney.
Yup lifting your Ender3 like that totally a good idea!
M5 screws can hold about 800 kg each! Whats the problem?
@@Robin-Visser you are putting pressure on the rails and are ever so slightly introducing misalignments. This will cause your prints to come out less than perfect; and the Ender 3 V2 is capable of producing print quality that equals that of $2,750 dollar printers -- if aligned and tensioned PERFECTLY.
@@TheTurbinator how is it putting more pressure on the rails than the stock feet?
@@Alucard0715 Can you guarantee those feet will come out flat out of the printer? No, because most pieces of glass are not flat. The stock feet will compensate since they're made of foam. Maybe if you print yours out of flexible filament. But if vibrations are a problem for you, I suggest putting the printer on top of a cement slab.
5:43 Watch out with the spool holder, I tried one and it broke during a print after only a few hours of use, almost ruining my entire print! Either try printing a reeeeaaally sturdy one or just let it be
most of these upgrades aren’t useful to me but great video all the same! enjoyed this format well done!
ما شاء الله brother good job ❤
nice compilation of upgrades.
wanna try this one
Great video. Would you recommend the Bltouch for an ender 3 v2?
YES! :)
Great video !
Fan shroud would be my first mod .
What was the stuff you sprayed on the v slot covers? To get them to release from the bed so easily
Follow
Great stuff. Thanks, man!
It is really interesting. But, I think if you explain in the video it will be best. Good luck
This is fantastic!! Thanks for posting!
Lol I can’t seem to even get mine to print anything to do this. I’m sure it’s me and my noobness causing the issue but yeah man awesome video
Truly amazing video. Thanks for tips.
Really great content! save me a lot of time searching for these
This video is super helpful and awesome, thanks!
Please do a print with and without all of these mods! Thanks
Awsome vid !! About to mod my 5th V2 now and may go Blue :)
Damn this is beautiful, thank you!
Should all these prints be 100% infill or 50%?
Hi, thanks for this video! I'm just now seeing this video and I've purchased an ender 3 v2. Not sure if there's already a follow up video on this channel, but seeing as its been 6 months, it would be great if you could share your experience with the mods - do you still use all the mods shown here? are there any mods that negatively affected the performance and also any that dramatically improved the performance? Thanks!
Hi, did you installed those mods? Maybe you can share your experience with new ender 3v2 users :)
Ideally, you should have 100 hours of print time with the printer on its stock configuration before changing stuff, otherwise troubleshooting later is a nightmare because you have no known working setup to measure against if something goes wrong.
First of all. This Black/Blue Style is fantastic. Maybe that's cause blue is my favorite color. Some questions:
1. ) I heard a good upgrade would be the metallic feeder?, too.
2. ) I read the AUtobed Leveling doesn't work on the Ender V2, or is there a special V2 Version?
I look forward to buy this Printer as my first one next month. SO I definitely need blue Filament, how much kg do I need for all those parts?
Greetings from Germany.
Hello,
1) Yes it is great upgrade
2) It works with latest versions, for old versions I don't know, but you should upgrade its firmware, you can use following one, I loved its functions: github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases
1KG filament will be more than enough, but be sure that your blue color is the same with color of parts that comes with the printer in stock, so you get great accent
@@engineericly How do you know what version to grab?
I keep the filament spool's center (of gravity) withing the printers feet to keep it more stable.
Il serait bien de mettre des liens pour ces mises à niveau. Merci pour tous.
Пружины не слишком жесткие? Не нужно будет регулировать высоту экструдера по оси Z?
I like all the add ons I’d do them in pink 😍
this guy is a PRO
The only actual upgrades were the bowden tube and the bl touch
What filament did you use? The color looks like it matches pretty well with the light blue parts they come with the Ender 3 V2.
wow im just realize now my entire ender are just 3d print material. im literal replace every piece with pla ty so much!@
So cool and satisfying love that you can upgrade the printer by using the printer
It really is!
You don't need support on all those prints. The printer can handle more than that
Awesome!
Glad you think so!
looked like that z rod was crooked. gonna get way more crooked with that "stabilizer" if it is.
Looks like all the 3 useful parts you want have to buy. Not sure If I would consider this upgrades, more customize.