I printed that filament cooling ring you suggested. With it installed, I can not make any prints anymore. It cools the filament off before it hit the bed. So for now, I rate it a thumbs down and will go back to stock.
@@Daveyk021 Cooling before the filament hits the bed, I have never seen or observed this before haha. Make sure to check your printing temps and type of filament. If that fan addition had the ability to cool before the filament hits the bed I think we would see it on every single printer ever made :)
@@AustenHartley I am too new to know a good answer. I put the stock part cooler on and it started working fine again. I tried several bed temps ranging from 50-65. Using inland White PLA. Usually set it at 210, but with this I tried 210-220. It just created strings. I love the idear of that circular part cooler. It would be a big help building parts that need external supports added. I will try the shorter version again once I get a few parts printed. I am now printing that filament roller with bearings (that should be in today.
@@AustenHartley I wish I could say why. I played with several bed temperature and numerous filament temperatures. All I could print was plastic string - lol. Now I was using the taller one (it's not much taller, very little difference). I will try the shorter one, maybe tomorrow. 8-). I did print the roller wheel assembly for the filament entering the extruder. Got the bearings for it today. It works and looks perfect! I did have to ream the bushing holes out with an exacto and then run the assembled wheel (spinning of course) over sandpaper a few times to keep it from binding to the holder frame. I want to make the Z-AXIS handle, but mainly for looks. I really do not see a need for it (yet). If I want to move the axis up, I just do it through the front panel, or if the steppers are un-locked or the printer is off, you can just pull up on the x-axis bar (to me in the UT Immersion world, that is the Y-AXIS. X-AXIS goes the length and Y the width, but it opposite with the 3-D printer.
And even with all the upgrades it's still cheaper then ones already upgraded and sell for more and the prusa and many others. Same quality prints, way cheaper
TIP with the V slot covers, the thin side is up and the angle below takes the metal part of the frame, then slide it in, it gives you more height and also stops dust getting under, rather than having the thin side down
One of the most important parts about running the BLtouch is not ease of use as much as it is to create a bed mesh. When it probes various locations it compares the height of each of them and then generates the new zero for that spot where it actually physically reaches the bed and adjusts for that during the print. For example, you might have a slightly warped carriage that has some warping near one of the corners. Trying to correct that by simply adjusting the knob will actually change the slope of your print bed in a way that can cause issues on the non-warped areas. There are only two solutions for this: 1. buy a new carriage or 2. Use a BL touch to generate a bed mesh. When you take that into consideration, the ease of using a BL touch compared to manual leveling is the cherry-on-top to save you some time, not the main feature.
I agree, 100%. I level my bed when heated, and prints come out nearly perfect at the corners, but the father they get from the corners the worse they are. My glass bed is lower in the center. I plan to add BL touch so it could detect that and help my prints come out better across the entire surface.
I recommend using clips for your glass bed. As he said, you can just put the glass on the heated bed and take it out. I would not recommend that because the speed of the Y axis will move the glass bed and cause some really bad layer shifts.
Clips are not optional, your plate will slip all over the place if your bed is actually flat and you don’t clamp it down. I don’t think he meant that you shouldn’t clip your glass plate.
Great video, I'm glad I found your site and now subscribed to it. I have an Ender 3Pro and really enjoy it. I have printed many of the upgrades and now ready for more things to do. I also found the chain is not a great item but everyone should at least give it a try. The rail covers are one of the easiest to print and add the most noticeable color to the machine and the fact that they are easy to change so printing different colors for a quick look is fun. looking forward to more of your videos and hopefully selling prints in the future.
A cr touch was pretty much a mandatory with my ender 3 considering the bed came warped from the factory. Messed with the bed for a few months got sick and dealing with it. And installed the cr touch Absolutely love the cr touch
Considering the upgrades this is gonna be one bad beast, and should hopefully make the dive into the hobby that much more enjoyable!! Congrats and maybe post in Austen's comments from time to time with updates - I'd definitely love a peek I to that (:
I just purchased my ender 3 pro today. I started with a monoprice voxel two months ago and had to return it. After 2 weeks of learning and research the ender 3 pro is best for my knowledge level and upgrading. Thank you for all of the information. Can't wait for more...
I got an Ender 3 v2, before upgrading it, after every print I had to re-level the bed, after upgrading the springs to stiffer ones, issue continued, got BL Touch, leveled bed, adjusted z-offset and that is it. No longer the printer starts grinding the nozzle on the bed at all. And less releveling! So yes, for certain cases BLTouch can improve.
The BL Touch is is not meant to compensate for the levelness of the bed but rather the flatness of the bed plate. You're still meant to manually level periodically. The BL Touch measures for warping caused by frequent heating/cooling cycles and adjust the amount of filament extruded to compensate. if you have a dip in the middle of the bed, no amount of manual levelling is going to fix the bed/layer adhesion problems you'll have. The BL Touch will extrude a little more filament into the dip on the first layer so the subsequent layers are properly level.
'after every print I had to re-level the bed, after upgrading the springs to stiffer ones, issue continued,' Realize though, with this happening, you have something much more fundamental going on. Rarely even have to adjust my bed at all on the CR-10, and the Ender has basically the same bed design. Two main culprits, first being the bed wheels. Instead of out at each side of the bed like they should be, it's supported very near the center, so small angle changes can make larger changes by the time you get to the side of the bed. These need to be adjusted to near perfect, too tight binds and shifts due to the bearings being too tight, and too lose allows shifting. You have to take out all possible play but be just under binding anywhere. Looking at it, why they moved the wheels in closer on the bed is beyond reasoning. In the direction of travel they should be as far apart as possible on the bottom of the bed, that's free extra accuracy. The other main culprit is your bed level is stable, but your X carriage is not. You want to adjust the free side of the X arm a millimeter or two high, so when the carriage is moved to that side it comes down to even since it's mainly supported on one side. You have to make sure that the wheels on both sides have minimized play but do not bind, both when the carriage is on the left and on the right. And of course the X carriage wheels have to be correct as well, but it's easier to feel the X carriage moving or binding so most people notice that more easily. The wheel system can work, but it requires good adjustment to be reasonably precise and repeatable. Almost all of the 'my printer isn't precise and repeatable' problems in Creality printers trace back to these. Once you're set up for the day and have the bed level you should hardly ever have to mess with your bed. Even every 5 prints you almost guaranteed have some other more fundamental problem causing your bed to shift around instead of being smooth and precise. Undo your belts and move everything around by hand and it should all glide smoothly and precisely, no real wobble and only smooth deflection even when you push on the edge of the bed. If you feel much of anything other than smooth motion while doing it by hand, you have problems. And be aware, the plastic tires on these wheels can develop flat spots if the forces are too high on them and they aren't moved for a while, which can throw everything off Even one of my machines did this, I had left the X carriage up off the bed for a good while, and the weight was putting pressure on the wheels on the X arm.. Even if your issue ends up being something different, realize you have an issue going on and your bed shouldn't be changing that often, something is shifting.
@@sgtkabukiman9411 No, BLTouch/3DTouch creates a mesh map of your bed and applies correction to Z axis so the nozzle height is consistent across any [X,Y] coordinates. So it can compensate for unleveled bed as well, easily. I have not leveled my bed once since installing 3DTouch years ago.
Just some notes, the spool roller w/bearings is really nice been using it for almost a year now, same with both filament guides although I have recently moved the spool holder off to the side and no longer need the guide for the top bar, however, the one that goes on the extruder is still in use, now in regards to the drawers, if you have big hands like me and you manually level your bed DO NOT put this on your printer, I did, thought it was great, put all my tools in it... then I needed to level my bed one day and boy does this drawer get in the way of trying to get at the knobs. I think it lasted maybe a month before I was too frustrated with it to keep in on the printer, and it only lasted that long because I did like it but in the end, it was just too much hassle.
Hi. I really appreciate your candidness when it comes to the probes. Have you done a video on upgrades that can improve print quality for the ender 3, and wheter they actually work? You did metion the bowden tube, the bl-touch and glass bed. But how about other upgrades, like nossels and direct drive? Thanks for a great video. Cheers.
Hi question I have a Ender 3 Pro and I'm new at this, I like your the second Tool Holder what is the settings for it, and the Rail Covers what one do I download there's 9 choices
I would like to know how come that specific model of the Ender 3 pro is different from the rest mine is the same as that one but is a little different can you tell me what’s the model version?
Your episode is fantastic and very informative, but the only thing I strongly disagree with it the BLtouch, especially being an engineer I would expect you to love it as higher accuracy is always better, I bought an Ender with a terrible glass bed and struggle for a very long time trying to level it well. I ended up buying a BLtouch(a real BLtouch) and truly feel this has been the single most important thing I've done to my printer period, I now never ever have to fuss with getting my bed perfectly leveled and then make sure the clearance is right and all corners are the same, I hit new bed mesh and then set the Z height to where I like it and thats it absolutely 💯 accurate, I can even remove the glass bed and swap a pei sheet on it and I don't even have calibrate or adjust anything it always keeps the nozzle exactly the right height off the bed
Bed leveling question. Everyone says clockwise raises the bed but for some reason on mine, the front left and rear right will raise when turned clockwise but the rear left and front right need to be turned counterclockwise to raise the bed. Whats going on?
I thought the BLTouch was pointless when I first got it, but it won me over the time when I needed to tweak the nozzle a fraction of a millimeter closer, and all I had to do was tweak the Z offset and it just worked without having to do any physical adjustments.
+1, I've been using a BLTouch and now that I try to get the best quality out of my printer I disabled Mesh Leveling but still use BLTouch for Auto Home, as it's the easiest and safest way to adjust the Nozzle height without risking to lose your perfectly leveled bed
I know I’m 2 years late but uh if I get the glass bed do I have to relevel everything?? I finally got it leveled after 2 weeks and been having a blast printing upgrades but I want the glass bed as well
hello Austin i just got a Ender 3 and I'm having some trouble with it was curious if you had the same problem when you got yours or if I'm just not doing everything correctly. when i print the test prints out they print perfectly but when I download a file and slice it and turn it into a G code on ultimaker cura it runs the print but doesn't seem to extrude at the correct rate -_- any fixes or tips thx!!
11:08 except it is not complex in the slightest compared to the parts already on the printer, and realistically you will never have a perfectly flat bed so a bed leveling probe is a pretty good upgrade. It has a more pronounced effect on big printers like a cr-10 max, they make things quite easy regarding leveling because they will compensate for distortions unless the bed is way off.
Hello thanks for your videos!! I have a ender 3 pro only to create clay cutters and after 6 pieces the printer is not working well it seems that the walls are not well filled and I don’t change anything , but I have no idea how to fix that again. Can you make a video to show good parameters to cut clay cutters but for really beginners I mean going into each step of the menu to explain what they are? I hate reading manuals and I need help!!! Thanks and gratings from Spain!!!
Bl touch with the traming feature added in the firmware makes you able to dial in each corner of the bed within .02mm on the ender 3 v2 there is even a port for the bl touch I haven't leveled my bed in months because of it.
I would recommend printing a storage container that attaches to the V slot covers, It is convenient for misc. tools. Also the BL touch and now the Creality CR touch are great for mapping the warping of the bed. over time the print bed warps and the sensor can account for that when printing.
"I retied from the CFL". I'm assuming thats supposed to be the word, retired? I just noticed this in your "who am I ?!" section. Thanks for the great channel.
Wonder if anyone can help? My ender starts preheating, gets to about 200 and then the system crashes and reboots. The temp gets set to 0 and it simply won't run
My ender 3 pro doesn’t have an e fan cover also on mine I put in much stronger springs along with the original ones so it is almost impossible to undeveloped it easily I had trouble with them unscrewing themselves
I like the functional upgrades like the tool box and scraper holder. The LED and Rasperry pi mods are too much at this point as I've just started and dont really print very often, but I still think they're really cool. Definitely going to do some of these upgrades to my Ender 3 Pro, in fact I already ordered to Capricorn tubing and metal extruder. I got my Ender for $99 so the upgrades are a must.
The screws are Phillips--and the reason you don't see them is, you probably have a magnetic bed attachment that came stock with your printer. You'd have to scrape that off to get to the screw heads. But you don't have to! Just unscrew your adjustment wheels all the way off and lift the bed off the Y-carriage. The adhesive bed magnet more than holds the screws in place. The stock springs suck; I didn't realize how bad they were--I replaced mine early on--until I bought a second Ender 3 and the difference between the beds was so night and day. But now they have Silicone bed "spacers" and holy cow, but they're fantastic. The silicone compresses as you tighten the screws down with the adjustment wheels and they have so much more contact area with the bed and carriage, the bed is much, much more stable. Totally worth it. These are the ones I put on my Ender 3v2: www.amazon.com/dp/B07MH4JQB8
Just a quick tip, if you have an old phone lying around, then you can use that for octoprint. You can even use the build in camera and flash of the phone.
To Austen and anyone seeing this, if you bought an Ender 3 would you rather have the Prusa MK 3Si instead? I’m battling with what to get for my first of perhaps several printers. I could get 2 of the Enders for less than one Prusa. Would love to hear feedback. Thanks.
You mentioned the sales on the Ender 3 Pro and you’re right! I got $100 off of one at microcenter from an instagram add so all-in-all came home with it for $99!!! Insane! First printer I’ve ever built and it was printing within 90 minutes. So happy with it and the quality
how do you make your own designs because i got a 3d printer for Christmas and so far I've been printing things from thangs and thingiverse but I want to start printing my own designs and was wondering how you do it
If you are willing to invest a bit in upgrades, than this is my list: 32 bit board BTT Pad 7 BL or CR touch, Sprite Pro extruder kit Flexible print steel sheet And a good firmware with configured imput shaping and linear advance. If you want to save some money, dont buy the BTT Pad 7 Klipper pad. You can run imput shaping and linear advance on a 32 bit board with marlin.
I have an regular non PRO Ender 3 for about 2 weeks, one of most important upgrade/modification for me was to connect motherboard box fan to extruder fan (always on) because for some reason Creality decided to put both of them under part cooling control. So I printed 2 prints of ABS without cooling of the motherboard. (ABS=part cooling fan 0%) Also, white USB card reader burns cards if they slightly moved, it burned 2 of my SD cards. Fan issue affect to my knowledge all of Ender 3 (PRO, V2) not sure about other models.
Updated Links
Bearings - amzn.to/3p9SlSz
Screws - amzn.to/3hdoQed
Bowden Tube - amzn.to/3kjiCeZ
Filament - amzn.to/3feFzg5
Glue + Activator for attaching printed parts - amzn.to/3IWHKT4
I printed that filament cooling ring you suggested. With it installed, I can not make any prints anymore. It cools the filament off before it hit the bed. So for now, I rate it a thumbs down and will go back to stock.
@@Daveyk021 Cooling before the filament hits the bed, I have never seen or observed this before haha. Make sure to check your printing temps and type of filament. If that fan addition had the ability to cool before the filament hits the bed I think we would see it on every single printer ever made :)
@@AustenHartley I am too new to know a good answer. I put the stock part cooler on and it started working fine again. I tried several bed temps ranging from 50-65. Using inland White PLA. Usually set it at 210, but with this I tried 210-220. It just created strings. I love the idear of that circular part cooler. It would be a big help building parts that need external supports added. I will try the shorter version again once I get a few parts printed. I am now printing that filament roller with bearings (that should be in today.
@@AustenHartley I wish I could say why. I played with several bed temperature and numerous filament temperatures. All I could print was plastic string - lol. Now I was using the taller one (it's not much taller, very little difference). I will try the shorter one, maybe tomorrow. 8-). I did print the roller wheel assembly for the filament entering the extruder. Got the bearings for it today. It works and looks perfect! I did have to ream the bushing holes out with an exacto and then run the assembled wheel (spinning of course) over sandpaper a few times to keep it from binding to the holder frame. I want to make the Z-AXIS handle, but mainly for looks. I really do not see a need for it (yet). If I want to move the axis up, I just do it through the front panel, or if the steppers are un-locked or the printer is off, you can just pull up on the x-axis bar (to me in the UT Immersion world, that is the Y-AXIS. X-AXIS goes the length and Y the width, but it opposite with the 3-D printer.
I believe the slot covers should hug the rail and use the slot cover as a guide sliding in not just inserted ha unless I inserted mine in correctly
at this point ender 3 is basically skyrim, it work out of the box, but you can also put 100 mods to make it better
This guy gettts it!!!!!
I mean, I had to mod the firmware of mines before the first succesfull print (manual mesh leveling issues)
Only difference is that it doesn't crash if you have all the mods.
And even with all the upgrades it's still cheaper then ones already upgraded and sell for more and the prusa and many others. Same quality prints, way cheaper
But Skyrim didn't work out of the box
TIP with the V slot covers, the thin side is up and the angle below takes the metal part of the frame, then slide it in, it gives you more height and also stops dust getting under, rather than having the thin side down
🤣
One of the most important parts about running the BLtouch is not ease of use as much as it is to create a bed mesh. When it probes various locations it compares the height of each of them and then generates the new zero for that spot where it actually physically reaches the bed and adjusts for that during the print.
For example, you might have a slightly warped carriage that has some warping near one of the corners. Trying to correct that by simply adjusting the knob will actually change the slope of your print bed in a way that can cause issues on the non-warped areas. There are only two solutions for this: 1. buy a new carriage or 2. Use a BL touch to generate a bed mesh. When you take that into consideration, the ease of using a BL touch compared to manual leveling is the cherry-on-top to save you some time, not the main feature.
I agree, 100%. I level my bed when heated, and prints come out nearly perfect at the corners, but the father they get from the corners the worse they are. My glass bed is lower in the center. I plan to add BL touch so it could detect that and help my prints come out better across the entire surface.
Even better if you can get a visualization using octoprint or klipper!
I recommend using clips for your glass bed. As he said, you can just put the glass on the heated bed and take it out. I would not recommend that because the speed of the Y axis will move the glass bed and cause some really bad layer shifts.
Clips are not optional, your plate will slip all over the place if your bed is actually flat and you don’t clamp it down. I don’t think he meant that you shouldn’t clip your glass plate.
I use kapton tape. Way better
The best upgrades for my Ender 3 V2 were Bondtech BMG extruder, spool holder and better part cooling. It drastically improved print quality.
Great video, I'm glad I found your site and now subscribed to it. I have an Ender 3Pro and really enjoy it. I have printed many of the upgrades and now ready for more things to do. I also found the chain is not a great item but everyone should at least give it a try. The rail covers are one of the easiest to print and add the most noticeable color to the machine and the fact that they are easy to change so printing different colors for a quick look is fun. looking forward to more of your videos and hopefully selling prints in the future.
Hey Jim !
Thanks so much for the kind words ! Thats fantastic and I totally agree with the chain and rail covers.
Lots of great upgrades described here. Good explanations. Cheers!
A cr touch was pretty much a mandatory with my ender 3 considering the bed came warped from the factory. Messed with the bed for a few months got sick and dealing with it. And installed the cr touch Absolutely love the cr touch
at first I thought "nooo Bltouch is not necessary" but since I have one I can't live without it.😁
This is amazing! Thank you so much!! I can't wait to dive into this hobby.
Happy for you !! You’re gunna love it! It will go out Monday .
Thanks Michael !
Considering the upgrades this is gonna be one bad beast, and should hopefully make the dive into the hobby that much more enjoyable!! Congrats and maybe post in Austen's comments from time to time with updates - I'd definitely love a peek I to that (:
very professional, haven't got an ender 3 but have a similar looking machine so look forward to using the upgrades.
Thank You so much for this video Im getting into printing and so excited for it !
How did it go? I just got mine yesterday. Haven't set it up yet
I just purchased my ender 3 pro today. I started with a monoprice voxel two months ago and had to return it. After 2 weeks of learning and research the ender 3 pro is best for my knowledge level and upgrading. Thank you for all of the information. Can't wait for more...
Thanks Chris !! Can't wait for you guys to see the next one ! Happy printing !
Thanks for the video. I’ll be making some changes to my printer when it shows up.
Just subbed really liked the video it is gonna make my 3d printing some much easier
I got an Ender 3 v2, before upgrading it, after every print I had to re-level the bed, after upgrading the springs to stiffer ones, issue continued, got BL Touch, leveled bed, adjusted z-offset and that is it. No longer the printer starts grinding the nozzle on the bed at all. And less releveling! So yes, for certain cases BLTouch can improve.
That is good to hear ! definitely works for some. Appreciate the comment !
Cheers !
The BL Touch is is not meant to compensate for the levelness of the bed but rather the flatness of the bed plate. You're still meant to manually level periodically. The BL Touch measures for warping caused by frequent heating/cooling cycles and adjust the amount of filament extruded to compensate. if you have a dip in the middle of the bed, no amount of manual levelling is going to fix the bed/layer adhesion problems you'll have. The BL Touch will extrude a little more filament into the dip on the first layer so the subsequent layers are properly level.
@@sgtkabukiman9411 I am fully aware, but I prefer leveling it every 5 or so prints and not every god darn print, makes it easier for me.
'after every print I had to re-level the bed, after upgrading the springs to stiffer ones, issue continued,' Realize though, with this happening, you have something much more fundamental going on. Rarely even have to adjust my bed at all on the CR-10, and the Ender has basically the same bed design.
Two main culprits, first being the bed wheels. Instead of out at each side of the bed like they should be, it's supported very near the center, so small angle changes can make larger changes by the time you get to the side of the bed. These need to be adjusted to near perfect, too tight binds and shifts due to the bearings being too tight, and too lose allows shifting. You have to take out all possible play but be just under binding anywhere. Looking at it, why they moved the wheels in closer on the bed is beyond reasoning. In the direction of travel they should be as far apart as possible on the bottom of the bed, that's free extra accuracy.
The other main culprit is your bed level is stable, but your X carriage is not. You want to adjust the free side of the X arm a millimeter or two high, so when the carriage is moved to that side it comes down to even since it's mainly supported on one side. You have to make sure that the wheels on both sides have minimized play but do not bind, both when the carriage is on the left and on the right.
And of course the X carriage wheels have to be correct as well, but it's easier to feel the X carriage moving or binding so most people notice that more easily.
The wheel system can work, but it requires good adjustment to be reasonably precise and repeatable. Almost all of the 'my printer isn't precise and repeatable' problems in Creality printers trace back to these.
Once you're set up for the day and have the bed level you should hardly ever have to mess with your bed. Even every 5 prints you almost guaranteed have some other more fundamental problem causing your bed to shift around instead of being smooth and precise.
Undo your belts and move everything around by hand and it should all glide smoothly and precisely, no real wobble and only smooth deflection even when you push on the edge of the bed. If you feel much of anything other than smooth motion while doing it by hand, you have problems. And be aware, the plastic tires on these wheels can develop flat spots if the forces are too high on them and they aren't moved for a while, which can throw everything off Even one of my machines did this, I had left the X carriage up off the bed for a good while, and the weight was putting pressure on the wheels on the X arm..
Even if your issue ends up being something different, realize you have an issue going on and your bed shouldn't be changing that often, something is shifting.
@@sgtkabukiman9411 No, BLTouch/3DTouch creates a mesh map of your bed and applies correction to Z axis so the nozzle height is consistent across any [X,Y] coordinates. So it can compensate for unleveled bed as well, easily. I have not leveled my bed once since installing 3DTouch years ago.
Just some notes, the spool roller w/bearings is really nice been using it for almost a year now, same with both filament guides although I have recently moved the spool holder off to the side and no longer need the guide for the top bar, however, the one that goes on the extruder is still in use, now in regards to the drawers, if you have big hands like me and you manually level your bed DO NOT put this on your printer, I did, thought it was great, put all my tools in it... then I needed to level my bed one day and boy does this drawer get in the way of trying to get at the knobs. I think it lasted maybe a month before I was too frustrated with it to keep in on the printer, and it only lasted that long because I did like it but in the end, it was just too much hassle.
Awesome... everything in one place.. Thankyou for sharing 👍👍👍
Thanks for making this video. I just got an ender 3 pro and I got a lot of upgrades to do :P
Great video! Ordered a 3 pro arriving today. These will be some of my first prints (to learn) Thanks! I didn't see the link for the Bowman tube.
Thank you, great upgrades
Hi. I really appreciate your candidness when it comes to the probes. Have you done a video on upgrades that can improve print quality for the ender 3, and wheter they actually work? You did metion the bowden tube, the bl-touch and glass bed. But how about other upgrades, like nossels and direct drive?
Thanks for a great video. Cheers.
Great video, thanks for doing this
You should send me an email ! Maybe we can do another giveaway for the viewers of this channel :)
austen@crate3d.com
Thanks for the tips 😀
So informative. Keep it up, bro👍
Very nice guideline for Elder use and upgrade
Excellent guideline
Really liked your video, very informative
great video man
Just got my first ender 3 printer a few days ago and really like all of these upgrades, thanks for making this video :D
Amazing !! Welcome to the community !
What was the filment that I should use to make the fan attachment next to the print head?
Hi question I have a Ender 3 Pro and I'm new at this, I like your the second Tool Holder what is the settings for it, and the Rail Covers what one do I download there's 9 choices
Hello, so I’m having problem with my ender 3.It keeps hitting the print/slightly touching the print when it prints and I’m not sure what do do
I could not find the files for the fan cover on the bottom of the printer in the description.
Please advise
Incredible video! I don't own a printer yet, but things like this help me know which to buy!
Hi Austin
Thanks for the video
For the Z screw, do you super glue it?
We haven't got ours to stay on
Thanks Tim
New to the hobby. Just saw this video and WOW great information and layout. 100% subscribe thank you for info.
Thanks for all you do much appreciated
I would like to know how come that specific model of the Ender 3 pro is different from the rest mine is the same as that one but is a little different can you tell me what’s the model version?
can you do a video how to install the magnatic bed + what is you opinion about this?
thanks!
Just picked up a brand new ender3 on a auction for $110! Just did test print and came out perfect. Now for upgrades. Awesome video.
Thanks for giving me inspiration to upgrade my ender 3 pro , another ender 3 pro would be nice too more projects to print😉🥰
Your episode is fantastic and very informative, but the only thing I strongly disagree with it the BLtouch, especially being an engineer I would expect you to love it as higher accuracy is always better, I bought an Ender with a terrible glass bed and struggle for a very long time trying to level it well. I ended up buying a BLtouch(a real BLtouch) and truly feel this has been the single most important thing I've done to my printer period, I now never ever have to fuss with getting my bed perfectly leveled and then make sure the clearance is right and all corners are the same, I hit new bed mesh and then set the Z height to where I like it and thats it absolutely 💯 accurate, I can even remove the glass bed and swap a pei sheet on it and I don't even have calibrate or adjust anything it always keeps the nozzle exactly the right height off the bed
Aye love to see the Order of the Engineer ring on you. Great vid
Bed leveling question. Everyone says clockwise raises the bed but for some reason on mine, the front left and rear right will raise when turned clockwise but the rear left and front right need to be turned counterclockwise to raise the bed. Whats going on?
Love the video dude, im looking to by a ender 3 pro for my dad so this is a good help for finding my first prints
Thanks Adin !
@@AustenHartley no thank you!
I appreciate that the ender 2 pro has a couple of these upgrades already but I'm definitely going to print a few of these for it
How does one put the item in the computer to print?
Just got my Ender 3 Pro, Love your style, definitely subsribing.
Appreciate it Mike ! Welcome to the 3D printing community !
I thought the BLTouch was pointless when I first got it, but it won me over the time when I needed to tweak the nozzle a fraction of a millimeter closer, and all I had to do was tweak the Z offset and it just worked without having to do any physical adjustments.
What is your offset I'm having trouble getting mine working, do u have bed leaving checked in the settings, I'm using jyers
@@jimsinnovations2737 Offset always varies printer to printer, it is useless getting someone else's.
@@ivolol I've figured that out now lol
+1, I've been using a BLTouch and now that I try to get the best quality out of my printer I disabled Mesh Leveling but still use BLTouch for Auto Home, as it's the easiest and safest way to adjust the Nozzle height without risking to lose your perfectly leveled bed
My BLTouch didn't work so how did you make it work
Hello best way to clean the bed on ender3 max glass bed with the film like stuff on it. Thanks
I know I’m 2 years late but uh if I get the glass bed do I have to relevel everything?? I finally got it leveled after 2 weeks and been having a blast printing upgrades but I want the glass bed as well
I think the cool part about upgrading your printer is a good idea because it lets you learn to use it at a minimalist lvl. Lights a fire.
Question. How did u get video of that print without the extruder in the way as it builds up the print??? Looks so cool and wanna do it myself
Hello, so what type of printer do you use for your print farm now?
hello Austin i just got a Ender 3 and I'm having some trouble with it was curious if you had the same problem when you got yours or if I'm just not doing everything correctly. when i print the test prints out they print perfectly but when I download a file and slice it and turn it into a G code on ultimaker cura it runs the print but doesn't seem to extrude at the correct rate -_- any fixes or tips thx!!
Could the plastic stip at 9:33 be turned up to have the angled grooves flat to the top of the 4040 bar.
That would fill the gap.
11:08 except it is not complex in the slightest compared to the parts already on the printer, and realistically you will never have a perfectly flat bed so a bed leveling probe is a pretty good upgrade.
It has a more pronounced effect on big printers like a cr-10 max, they make things quite easy regarding leveling because they will compensate for distortions unless the bed is way off.
New Link for the Screws
amzn.to/3hdoQed
Hello thanks for your videos!! I have a ender 3 pro only to create clay cutters and after 6 pieces the printer is not working well it seems that the walls are not well filled and I don’t change anything , but I have no idea how to fix that again. Can you make a video to show good parameters to cut clay cutters but for really beginners I mean going into each step of the menu to explain what they are? I hate reading manuals and I need help!!! Thanks and gratings from Spain!!!
Bl touch with the traming feature added in the firmware makes you able to dial in each corner of the bed within .02mm on the ender 3 v2 there is even a port for the bl touch I haven't leveled my bed in months because of it.
I would recommend printing a storage container that attaches to the V slot covers, It is convenient for misc. tools. Also the BL touch and now the Creality CR touch are great for mapping the warping of the bed. over time the print bed warps and the sensor can account for that when printing.
Awesome video!
I like that extruder fan duct. Is there one for the Ender 3 V2?
Will any of these upgrades work for the ender 5 pro
Updated Links !
Link For Screws - amzn.to/3hdoQed
Link For Bowden Tube - amzn.to/3kjiCeZ
"I retied from the CFL". I'm assuming thats supposed to be the word, retired? I just noticed this in your "who am I ?!" section. Thanks for the great channel.
Great vid but which bearings do you use?
@@derekdavis7051 Should be in video description!
@@AustenHartley DOH! Sorry, guess I read too fast and missed it!
Wonder if anyone can help? My ender starts preheating, gets to about 200 and then the system crashes and reboots. The temp gets set to 0 and it simply won't run
have stared 3d printing big learning curve cause you may only have good prints so its fun to learn
My ender 3 pro doesn’t have an e fan cover also on mine I put in much stronger springs along with the original ones so it is almost impossible to undeveloped it easily I had trouble with them unscrewing themselves
Dam, I'm always late to give aways. Great video!! subscribed!
Can ask if these upgrades work on the Voxelab Aquila??? If not which will work??
Just watched your video and I don't see a link for the tube upgrade?
Do you think most of these mods will work on the ender 3 max?
Bro. How do you have only 13k? Your channel is ready to blow up anytime now! Subbing and already picked up some things from you list here!
Thank you !! I hope so !
How to the LEDs power on?
were do i get good stuf
I like the functional upgrades like the tool box and scraper holder. The LED and Rasperry pi mods are too much at this point as I've just started and dont really print very often, but I still think they're really cool. Definitely going to do some of these upgrades to my Ender 3 Pro, in fact I already ordered to Capricorn tubing and metal extruder. I got my Ender for $99 so the upgrades are a must.
Do you know if the springs are replaceable on the Ender-3 Pro? I don't see the flathead screws on the bed
The screws are Phillips--and the reason you don't see them is, you probably have a magnetic bed attachment that came stock with your printer. You'd have to scrape that off to get to the screw heads.
But you don't have to! Just unscrew your adjustment wheels all the way off and lift the bed off the Y-carriage. The adhesive bed magnet more than holds the screws in place.
The stock springs suck; I didn't realize how bad they were--I replaced mine early on--until I bought a second Ender 3 and the difference between the beds was so night and day. But now they have Silicone bed "spacers" and holy cow, but they're fantastic. The silicone compresses as you tighten the screws down with the adjustment wheels and they have so much more contact area with the bed and carriage, the bed is much, much more stable. Totally worth it.
These are the ones I put on my Ender 3v2: www.amazon.com/dp/B07MH4JQB8
How do you get that cool rough finish on the chain links?
Is the ender 3 or 3 pro better for first 3d printer?
Just a quick tip, if you have an old phone lying around, then you can use that for octoprint. You can even use the build in camera and flash of the phone.
What is your thoughts on the endear 5 versus the elder 3?
To Austen and anyone seeing this, if you bought an Ender 3 would you rather have the Prusa MK 3Si instead? I’m battling with what to get for my first of perhaps several printers. I could get 2 of the Enders for less than one Prusa. Would love to hear feedback. Thanks.
You mentioned the sales on the Ender 3 Pro and you’re right! I got $100 off of one at microcenter from an instagram add so all-in-all came home with it for $99!!! Insane! First printer I’ve ever built and it was printing within 90 minutes. So happy with it and the quality
What about the power supply silencer? air flow? Temperature? Any issues?
would you buy a ender 3 pro ($100 at microcenter) and mod it, or the ender 3 s1 ($280)
Have you tried a g10 board? I have one and you dont need ahesive, and it comes off pretty easy.
Are these compatible with the v2?
how do you make your own designs because i got a 3d printer for Christmas and so far I've been printing things from thangs and thingiverse but I want to start printing my own designs and was wondering how you do it
fusion 360!
Any upgrade for hellbot hidra plus??
Awesome! Where can I buy tisen nozzle
Where is the motor cover STL? I liked that a lot. Great video!
Lol! You out the vslot covers in upside down! I did the same thing when I put them on my ender...looks much better now!
Where do you find on down loads
If you are willing to invest a bit in upgrades, than this is my list:
32 bit board
BTT Pad 7
BL or CR touch,
Sprite Pro extruder kit
Flexible print steel sheet
And a good firmware with configured imput shaping and linear advance.
If you want to save some money, dont buy the BTT Pad 7 Klipper pad. You can run imput shaping and linear advance on a 32 bit board with marlin.
I have an regular non PRO Ender 3 for about 2 weeks, one of most important upgrade/modification for me was to connect motherboard box fan to extruder fan (always on) because for some reason Creality decided to put both of them under part cooling control. So I printed 2 prints of ABS without cooling of the motherboard. (ABS=part cooling fan 0%) Also, white USB card reader burns cards if they slightly moved, it burned 2 of my SD cards. Fan issue affect to my knowledge all of Ender 3 (PRO, V2) not sure about other models.
i got a bl toutch because in makes bed leveling easier and my print bed was realy warped
Whats the difference between the ender3/Pro versus the ender3 v2?
How tall and wide is the ender pro? Anyone know? I want to get an enclosure to keep dust out
440*440* 465 mm (without the filament spool)