I printed that filament cooling ring you suggested. With it installed, I can not make any prints anymore. It cools the filament off before it hit the bed. So for now, I rate it a thumbs down and will go back to stock.
@@Daveyk021 Cooling before the filament hits the bed, I have never seen or observed this before haha. Make sure to check your printing temps and type of filament. If that fan addition had the ability to cool before the filament hits the bed I think we would see it on every single printer ever made :)
@@AustenHartley I am too new to know a good answer. I put the stock part cooler on and it started working fine again. I tried several bed temps ranging from 50-65. Using inland White PLA. Usually set it at 210, but with this I tried 210-220. It just created strings. I love the idear of that circular part cooler. It would be a big help building parts that need external supports added. I will try the shorter version again once I get a few parts printed. I am now printing that filament roller with bearings (that should be in today.
@@AustenHartley I wish I could say why. I played with several bed temperature and numerous filament temperatures. All I could print was plastic string - lol. Now I was using the taller one (it's not much taller, very little difference). I will try the shorter one, maybe tomorrow. 8-). I did print the roller wheel assembly for the filament entering the extruder. Got the bearings for it today. It works and looks perfect! I did have to ream the bushing holes out with an exacto and then run the assembled wheel (spinning of course) over sandpaper a few times to keep it from binding to the holder frame. I want to make the Z-AXIS handle, but mainly for looks. I really do not see a need for it (yet). If I want to move the axis up, I just do it through the front panel, or if the steppers are un-locked or the printer is off, you can just pull up on the x-axis bar (to me in the UT Immersion world, that is the Y-AXIS. X-AXIS goes the length and Y the width, but it opposite with the 3-D printer.
And even with all the upgrades it's still cheaper then ones already upgraded and sell for more and the prusa and many others. Same quality prints, way cheaper
TIP with the V slot covers, the thin side is up and the angle below takes the metal part of the frame, then slide it in, it gives you more height and also stops dust getting under, rather than having the thin side down
One of the most important parts about running the BLtouch is not ease of use as much as it is to create a bed mesh. When it probes various locations it compares the height of each of them and then generates the new zero for that spot where it actually physically reaches the bed and adjusts for that during the print. For example, you might have a slightly warped carriage that has some warping near one of the corners. Trying to correct that by simply adjusting the knob will actually change the slope of your print bed in a way that can cause issues on the non-warped areas. There are only two solutions for this: 1. buy a new carriage or 2. Use a BL touch to generate a bed mesh. When you take that into consideration, the ease of using a BL touch compared to manual leveling is the cherry-on-top to save you some time, not the main feature.
I agree, 100%. I level my bed when heated, and prints come out nearly perfect at the corners, but the father they get from the corners the worse they are. My glass bed is lower in the center. I plan to add BL touch so it could detect that and help my prints come out better across the entire surface.
If you are willing to invest a bit in upgrades, than this is my list: 32 bit board BTT Pad 7 BL or CR touch, Sprite Pro extruder kit Flexible print steel sheet And a good firmware with configured imput shaping and linear advance. If you want to save some money, dont buy the BTT Pad 7 Klipper pad. You can run imput shaping and linear advance on a 32 bit board with marlin.
I recommend using clips for your glass bed. As he said, you can just put the glass on the heated bed and take it out. I would not recommend that because the speed of the Y axis will move the glass bed and cause some really bad layer shifts.
Clips are not optional, your plate will slip all over the place if your bed is actually flat and you don’t clamp it down. I don’t think he meant that you shouldn’t clip your glass plate.
I honestly just picked one of these up.. love it as a beginner printer it’s simple and great. I have already bought and printed upgrades for it and only having it 3 days I love it!!
11:08 except it is not complex in the slightest compared to the parts already on the printer, and realistically you will never have a perfectly flat bed so a bed leveling probe is a pretty good upgrade. It has a more pronounced effect on big printers like a cr-10 max, they make things quite easy regarding leveling because they will compensate for distortions unless the bed is way off.
I got an Ender 3 v2, before upgrading it, after every print I had to re-level the bed, after upgrading the springs to stiffer ones, issue continued, got BL Touch, leveled bed, adjusted z-offset and that is it. No longer the printer starts grinding the nozzle on the bed at all. And less releveling! So yes, for certain cases BLTouch can improve.
The BL Touch is is not meant to compensate for the levelness of the bed but rather the flatness of the bed plate. You're still meant to manually level periodically. The BL Touch measures for warping caused by frequent heating/cooling cycles and adjust the amount of filament extruded to compensate. if you have a dip in the middle of the bed, no amount of manual levelling is going to fix the bed/layer adhesion problems you'll have. The BL Touch will extrude a little more filament into the dip on the first layer so the subsequent layers are properly level.
'after every print I had to re-level the bed, after upgrading the springs to stiffer ones, issue continued,' Realize though, with this happening, you have something much more fundamental going on. Rarely even have to adjust my bed at all on the CR-10, and the Ender has basically the same bed design. Two main culprits, first being the bed wheels. Instead of out at each side of the bed like they should be, it's supported very near the center, so small angle changes can make larger changes by the time you get to the side of the bed. These need to be adjusted to near perfect, too tight binds and shifts due to the bearings being too tight, and too lose allows shifting. You have to take out all possible play but be just under binding anywhere. Looking at it, why they moved the wheels in closer on the bed is beyond reasoning. In the direction of travel they should be as far apart as possible on the bottom of the bed, that's free extra accuracy. The other main culprit is your bed level is stable, but your X carriage is not. You want to adjust the free side of the X arm a millimeter or two high, so when the carriage is moved to that side it comes down to even since it's mainly supported on one side. You have to make sure that the wheels on both sides have minimized play but do not bind, both when the carriage is on the left and on the right. And of course the X carriage wheels have to be correct as well, but it's easier to feel the X carriage moving or binding so most people notice that more easily. The wheel system can work, but it requires good adjustment to be reasonably precise and repeatable. Almost all of the 'my printer isn't precise and repeatable' problems in Creality printers trace back to these. Once you're set up for the day and have the bed level you should hardly ever have to mess with your bed. Even every 5 prints you almost guaranteed have some other more fundamental problem causing your bed to shift around instead of being smooth and precise. Undo your belts and move everything around by hand and it should all glide smoothly and precisely, no real wobble and only smooth deflection even when you push on the edge of the bed. If you feel much of anything other than smooth motion while doing it by hand, you have problems. And be aware, the plastic tires on these wheels can develop flat spots if the forces are too high on them and they aren't moved for a while, which can throw everything off Even one of my machines did this, I had left the X carriage up off the bed for a good while, and the weight was putting pressure on the wheels on the X arm.. Even if your issue ends up being something different, realize you have an issue going on and your bed shouldn't be changing that often, something is shifting.
@@sgtkabukiman9411 No, BLTouch/3DTouch creates a mesh map of your bed and applies correction to Z axis so the nozzle height is consistent across any [X,Y] coordinates. So it can compensate for unleveled bed as well, easily. I have not leveled my bed once since installing 3DTouch years ago.
on the bltouch, if you hate manual leveling and have the money, BUY IT! Its easy to install, and works better than he says. You wont have to deal with drift with the knobs. It can have problems with erroring, but thats usually when you are leveling it. You can load your bed mesh in your slice.
A cr touch was pretty much a mandatory with my ender 3 considering the bed came warped from the factory. Messed with the bed for a few months got sick and dealing with it. And installed the cr touch Absolutely love the cr touch
I thought the BLTouch was pointless when I first got it, but it won me over the time when I needed to tweak the nozzle a fraction of a millimeter closer, and all I had to do was tweak the Z offset and it just worked without having to do any physical adjustments.
+1, I've been using a BLTouch and now that I try to get the best quality out of my printer I disabled Mesh Leveling but still use BLTouch for Auto Home, as it's the easiest and safest way to adjust the Nozzle height without risking to lose your perfectly leveled bed
Your episode is fantastic and very informative, but the only thing I strongly disagree with it the BLtouch, especially being an engineer I would expect you to love it as higher accuracy is always better, I bought an Ender with a terrible glass bed and struggle for a very long time trying to level it well. I ended up buying a BLtouch(a real BLtouch) and truly feel this has been the single most important thing I've done to my printer period, I now never ever have to fuss with getting my bed perfectly leveled and then make sure the clearance is right and all corners are the same, I hit new bed mesh and then set the Z height to where I like it and thats it absolutely 💯 accurate, I can even remove the glass bed and swap a pei sheet on it and I don't even have calibrate or adjust anything it always keeps the nozzle exactly the right height off the bed
hello Austin i just got a Ender 3 and I'm having some trouble with it was curious if you had the same problem when you got yours or if I'm just not doing everything correctly. when i print the test prints out they print perfectly but when I download a file and slice it and turn it into a G code on ultimaker cura it runs the print but doesn't seem to extrude at the correct rate -_- any fixes or tips thx!!
The pi is a must for all people. I curently have about 5 in my home doing different things. Cheap game server for older games, 3D print server, but my all time favorite.... the Pihole for disabling all online ads.
Hello thanks for your videos!! I have a ender 3 pro only to create clay cutters and after 6 pieces the printer is not working well it seems that the walls are not well filled and I don’t change anything , but I have no idea how to fix that again. Can you make a video to show good parameters to cut clay cutters but for really beginners I mean going into each step of the menu to explain what they are? I hate reading manuals and I need help!!! Thanks and gratings from Spain!!!
You mentioned the sales on the Ender 3 Pro and you’re right! I got $100 off of one at microcenter from an instagram add so all-in-all came home with it for $99!!! Insane! First printer I’ve ever built and it was printing within 90 minutes. So happy with it and the quality
I just purchased my ender 3 pro today. I started with a monoprice voxel two months ago and had to return it. After 2 weeks of learning and research the ender 3 pro is best for my knowledge level and upgrading. Thank you for all of the information. Can't wait for more...
Hi question I have a Ender 3 Pro and I'm new at this, I like your the second Tool Holder what is the settings for it, and the Rail Covers what one do I download there's 9 choices
The Ender 3 Pro doesn't have the electronics fan on the top of the printer so you won't need that cover on the Pro version. For the bed i def recommend a PEI Flex plate over a Glass bed. we were running 2 ender 3 Pro's with glass beds 24/7 and have swapped both of those out to PEI Flex plates and def won't go back to the glas beds.
I would like to know how come that specific model of the Ender 3 pro is different from the rest mine is the same as that one but is a little different can you tell me what’s the model version?
@@AustenHartley They are not upside down, But you did put them in too low. The top surface should be flush with the Aluminium top. The V slots into the V not under it.
@@thack2502 No Alex is right. The smaller bit is the top, and the wider part is the bottom. Originally thought the opposite myself before I printed them for my machine.
@@Matoikey Exactly. It even specifically states to do so in the description ("Insert in the extrusion with the widest part at the bottom."), not to mention that is how it is pictured in the example images.
Just some notes, the spool roller w/bearings is really nice been using it for almost a year now, same with both filament guides although I have recently moved the spool holder off to the side and no longer need the guide for the top bar, however, the one that goes on the extruder is still in use, now in regards to the drawers, if you have big hands like me and you manually level your bed DO NOT put this on your printer, I did, thought it was great, put all my tools in it... then I needed to level my bed one day and boy does this drawer get in the way of trying to get at the knobs. I think it lasted maybe a month before I was too frustrated with it to keep in on the printer, and it only lasted that long because I did like it but in the end, it was just too much hassle.
I know I’m 2 years late but uh if I get the glass bed do I have to relevel everything?? I finally got it leveled after 2 weeks and been having a blast printing upgrades but I want the glass bed as well
I just bought the ender 3. I am not sure what programs and slicers are good for it. Could you please help me out. I real liked the video and updates. Suzy
You may not like the touch probes but when the bed isn't flat out of the factory, it doesn't matter how much levelling you do... you can't adapt for high and low points across the board by wiping a piece of paper on each corner a couple of times. Touch probes are fantastic, yes it took a bit of set up and messing about, but my printer runs a check every time its switched on and i don't think i've touched the manual dials since installing it.
Bed leveling question. Everyone says clockwise raises the bed but for some reason on mine, the front left and rear right will raise when turned clockwise but the rear left and front right need to be turned counterclockwise to raise the bed. Whats going on?
I had a manual bed for years, I won't go back... Love my printers with BL or CR touch. Makes things a ton easier. I think your rail slot covers were supposed to be placed a little higher...
Just a quick tip, if you have an old phone lying around, then you can use that for octoprint. You can even use the build in camera and flash of the phone.
CR touch helped me a lot. my Ender 3 pro was 79.99, after assembly it didn't even work :( I bought a silent motherboard 4.2.7 and it started printing, however, the aluminum heat bed was so bent up. The previous owner must have been rough with it because I could only print in certain small areas of the bed. when I moved the Y axis I would see the extruder going up and down even after I got a glass bed! So I tightened my bed a bit and got the cl touch and after auto leveling, it can print on the entire surface. I ordered a new aluminum heat bed and I only expect more improvements.
bed leveling isnt difficult, and i have never run into issues with it, an auto leveling system is still better for a more consistent result throughout your build plate and only takes an extra 30 seconds and i never have to do it again
I've heard way too many stories of warped glass print beds so there's no way I'm not getting bl touch. Even if I don't need it, it's better to have one than miss it. I'm going to get ender 3 max soon, which ships with glass bed.
Yeah he is completely wrong about ABL. They should be called Auto Bed Level Compensators, since they do not change the actual level of the bed but CAN account for warped beds that are known QC issue with ender 3s
The screws are Phillips--and the reason you don't see them is, you probably have a magnetic bed attachment that came stock with your printer. You'd have to scrape that off to get to the screw heads. But you don't have to! Just unscrew your adjustment wheels all the way off and lift the bed off the Y-carriage. The adhesive bed magnet more than holds the screws in place. The stock springs suck; I didn't realize how bad they were--I replaced mine early on--until I bought a second Ender 3 and the difference between the beds was so night and day. But now they have Silicone bed "spacers" and holy cow, but they're fantastic. The silicone compresses as you tighten the screws down with the adjustment wheels and they have so much more contact area with the bed and carriage, the bed is much, much more stable. Totally worth it. These are the ones I put on my Ender 3v2: www.amazon.com/dp/B07MH4JQB8
how do you make your own designs because i got a 3d printer for Christmas and so far I've been printing things from thangs and thingiverse but I want to start printing my own designs and was wondering how you do it
I'd avoid glass beds. I have had nothing by issues with prints and sticking. I've leveled it, Ive cleaned it and it just is a pain. I was able to get it to work with putting painters tape on it but its too cumbersome. Im just getting a flexible stainless steel magnetic mat which should be perfect.
The "ng design" drag chain's design seems wrong to me. It doesn't prevent the wire from bending in a very small arc as I think they should. This chain can bend in an arc with a very small radius, maybe 5mm or less. Which would means that using the chain won't protect the wire from bending fatigue.
The only reason I have the BL touch is because I have a slight dip. Honestly I don’t even know if the thing is actually working but it’s just something extra on top of a decently trammed printer.
I don't understand what you're asking me... you can buy 3d printers in nearly every country.. "local" doesn't tell me anything, because idk if you live in a city or in some village in a tiny country.. microcenter sells them. A .2 second google search will be 100000x more helpful than a stranger on the internet
Considering the upgrades this is gonna be one bad beast, and should hopefully make the dive into the hobby that much more enjoyable!! Congrats and maybe post in Austen's comments from time to time with updates - I'd definitely love a peek I to that (:
My ender 3 pro doesn’t have an e fan cover also on mine I put in much stronger springs along with the original ones so it is almost impossible to undeveloped it easily I had trouble with them unscrewing themselves
the bearings in your link are 6200-2rs but the print for the filament holder needs 608zz bearings that are smaller, can you check and edit your link please.
Updated Links
Bearings - amzn.to/3p9SlSz
Screws - amzn.to/3hdoQed
Bowden Tube - amzn.to/3kjiCeZ
Filament - amzn.to/3feFzg5
Glue + Activator for attaching printed parts - amzn.to/3IWHKT4
I printed that filament cooling ring you suggested. With it installed, I can not make any prints anymore. It cools the filament off before it hit the bed. So for now, I rate it a thumbs down and will go back to stock.
@@Daveyk021 Cooling before the filament hits the bed, I have never seen or observed this before haha. Make sure to check your printing temps and type of filament. If that fan addition had the ability to cool before the filament hits the bed I think we would see it on every single printer ever made :)
@@AustenHartley I am too new to know a good answer. I put the stock part cooler on and it started working fine again. I tried several bed temps ranging from 50-65. Using inland White PLA. Usually set it at 210, but with this I tried 210-220. It just created strings. I love the idear of that circular part cooler. It would be a big help building parts that need external supports added. I will try the shorter version again once I get a few parts printed. I am now printing that filament roller with bearings (that should be in today.
@@AustenHartley I wish I could say why. I played with several bed temperature and numerous filament temperatures. All I could print was plastic string - lol. Now I was using the taller one (it's not much taller, very little difference). I will try the shorter one, maybe tomorrow. 8-). I did print the roller wheel assembly for the filament entering the extruder. Got the bearings for it today. It works and looks perfect! I did have to ream the bushing holes out with an exacto and then run the assembled wheel (spinning of course) over sandpaper a few times to keep it from binding to the holder frame. I want to make the Z-AXIS handle, but mainly for looks. I really do not see a need for it (yet). If I want to move the axis up, I just do it through the front panel, or if the steppers are un-locked or the printer is off, you can just pull up on the x-axis bar (to me in the UT Immersion world, that is the Y-AXIS. X-AXIS goes the length and Y the width, but it opposite with the 3-D printer.
I believe the slot covers should hug the rail and use the slot cover as a guide sliding in not just inserted ha unless I inserted mine in correctly
at this point ender 3 is basically skyrim, it work out of the box, but you can also put 100 mods to make it better
This guy gettts it!!!!!
I mean, I had to mod the firmware of mines before the first succesfull print (manual mesh leveling issues)
Only difference is that it doesn't crash if you have all the mods.
And even with all the upgrades it's still cheaper then ones already upgraded and sell for more and the prusa and many others. Same quality prints, way cheaper
But Skyrim didn't work out of the box
TIP with the V slot covers, the thin side is up and the angle below takes the metal part of the frame, then slide it in, it gives you more height and also stops dust getting under, rather than having the thin side down
🤣
One of the most important parts about running the BLtouch is not ease of use as much as it is to create a bed mesh. When it probes various locations it compares the height of each of them and then generates the new zero for that spot where it actually physically reaches the bed and adjusts for that during the print.
For example, you might have a slightly warped carriage that has some warping near one of the corners. Trying to correct that by simply adjusting the knob will actually change the slope of your print bed in a way that can cause issues on the non-warped areas. There are only two solutions for this: 1. buy a new carriage or 2. Use a BL touch to generate a bed mesh. When you take that into consideration, the ease of using a BL touch compared to manual leveling is the cherry-on-top to save you some time, not the main feature.
I agree, 100%. I level my bed when heated, and prints come out nearly perfect at the corners, but the father they get from the corners the worse they are. My glass bed is lower in the center. I plan to add BL touch so it could detect that and help my prints come out better across the entire surface.
Even better if you can get a visualization using octoprint or klipper!
If you are willing to invest a bit in upgrades, than this is my list:
32 bit board
BTT Pad 7
BL or CR touch,
Sprite Pro extruder kit
Flexible print steel sheet
And a good firmware with configured imput shaping and linear advance.
If you want to save some money, dont buy the BTT Pad 7 Klipper pad. You can run imput shaping and linear advance on a 32 bit board with marlin.
I recommend using clips for your glass bed. As he said, you can just put the glass on the heated bed and take it out. I would not recommend that because the speed of the Y axis will move the glass bed and cause some really bad layer shifts.
Clips are not optional, your plate will slip all over the place if your bed is actually flat and you don’t clamp it down. I don’t think he meant that you shouldn’t clip your glass plate.
I use kapton tape. Way better
I honestly just picked one of these up.. love it as a beginner printer it’s simple and great. I have already bought and printed upgrades for it and only having it 3 days I love it!!
11:08 except it is not complex in the slightest compared to the parts already on the printer, and realistically you will never have a perfectly flat bed so a bed leveling probe is a pretty good upgrade.
It has a more pronounced effect on big printers like a cr-10 max, they make things quite easy regarding leveling because they will compensate for distortions unless the bed is way off.
I got an Ender 3 v2, before upgrading it, after every print I had to re-level the bed, after upgrading the springs to stiffer ones, issue continued, got BL Touch, leveled bed, adjusted z-offset and that is it. No longer the printer starts grinding the nozzle on the bed at all. And less releveling! So yes, for certain cases BLTouch can improve.
That is good to hear ! definitely works for some. Appreciate the comment !
Cheers !
The BL Touch is is not meant to compensate for the levelness of the bed but rather the flatness of the bed plate. You're still meant to manually level periodically. The BL Touch measures for warping caused by frequent heating/cooling cycles and adjust the amount of filament extruded to compensate. if you have a dip in the middle of the bed, no amount of manual levelling is going to fix the bed/layer adhesion problems you'll have. The BL Touch will extrude a little more filament into the dip on the first layer so the subsequent layers are properly level.
@@sgtkabukiman9411 I am fully aware, but I prefer leveling it every 5 or so prints and not every god darn print, makes it easier for me.
'after every print I had to re-level the bed, after upgrading the springs to stiffer ones, issue continued,' Realize though, with this happening, you have something much more fundamental going on. Rarely even have to adjust my bed at all on the CR-10, and the Ender has basically the same bed design.
Two main culprits, first being the bed wheels. Instead of out at each side of the bed like they should be, it's supported very near the center, so small angle changes can make larger changes by the time you get to the side of the bed. These need to be adjusted to near perfect, too tight binds and shifts due to the bearings being too tight, and too lose allows shifting. You have to take out all possible play but be just under binding anywhere. Looking at it, why they moved the wheels in closer on the bed is beyond reasoning. In the direction of travel they should be as far apart as possible on the bottom of the bed, that's free extra accuracy.
The other main culprit is your bed level is stable, but your X carriage is not. You want to adjust the free side of the X arm a millimeter or two high, so when the carriage is moved to that side it comes down to even since it's mainly supported on one side. You have to make sure that the wheels on both sides have minimized play but do not bind, both when the carriage is on the left and on the right.
And of course the X carriage wheels have to be correct as well, but it's easier to feel the X carriage moving or binding so most people notice that more easily.
The wheel system can work, but it requires good adjustment to be reasonably precise and repeatable. Almost all of the 'my printer isn't precise and repeatable' problems in Creality printers trace back to these.
Once you're set up for the day and have the bed level you should hardly ever have to mess with your bed. Even every 5 prints you almost guaranteed have some other more fundamental problem causing your bed to shift around instead of being smooth and precise.
Undo your belts and move everything around by hand and it should all glide smoothly and precisely, no real wobble and only smooth deflection even when you push on the edge of the bed. If you feel much of anything other than smooth motion while doing it by hand, you have problems. And be aware, the plastic tires on these wheels can develop flat spots if the forces are too high on them and they aren't moved for a while, which can throw everything off Even one of my machines did this, I had left the X carriage up off the bed for a good while, and the weight was putting pressure on the wheels on the X arm..
Even if your issue ends up being something different, realize you have an issue going on and your bed shouldn't be changing that often, something is shifting.
@@sgtkabukiman9411 No, BLTouch/3DTouch creates a mesh map of your bed and applies correction to Z axis so the nozzle height is consistent across any [X,Y] coordinates. So it can compensate for unleveled bed as well, easily. I have not leveled my bed once since installing 3DTouch years ago.
at first I thought "nooo Bltouch is not necessary" but since I have one I can't live without it.😁
on the bltouch, if you hate manual leveling and have the money, BUY IT! Its easy to install, and works better than he says. You wont have to deal with drift with the knobs. It can have problems with erroring, but thats usually when you are leveling it. You can load your bed mesh in your slice.
A cr touch was pretty much a mandatory with my ender 3 considering the bed came warped from the factory. Messed with the bed for a few months got sick and dealing with it. And installed the cr touch Absolutely love the cr touch
were do i get good stuf
I thought the BLTouch was pointless when I first got it, but it won me over the time when I needed to tweak the nozzle a fraction of a millimeter closer, and all I had to do was tweak the Z offset and it just worked without having to do any physical adjustments.
What is your offset I'm having trouble getting mine working, do u have bed leaving checked in the settings, I'm using jyers
@@jimsinnovations2737 Offset always varies printer to printer, it is useless getting someone else's.
@@ivolol I've figured that out now lol
+1, I've been using a BLTouch and now that I try to get the best quality out of my printer I disabled Mesh Leveling but still use BLTouch for Auto Home, as it's the easiest and safest way to adjust the Nozzle height without risking to lose your perfectly leveled bed
My BLTouch didn't work so how did you make it work
Guess I got some stuff to print. Just got an ender 3 pro for $75 after coupons from micro center so its time to finally get into this hobby.
Your episode is fantastic and very informative, but the only thing I strongly disagree with it the BLtouch, especially being an engineer I would expect you to love it as higher accuracy is always better, I bought an Ender with a terrible glass bed and struggle for a very long time trying to level it well. I ended up buying a BLtouch(a real BLtouch) and truly feel this has been the single most important thing I've done to my printer period, I now never ever have to fuss with getting my bed perfectly leveled and then make sure the clearance is right and all corners are the same, I hit new bed mesh and then set the Z height to where I like it and thats it absolutely 💯 accurate, I can even remove the glass bed and swap a pei sheet on it and I don't even have calibrate or adjust anything it always keeps the nozzle exactly the right height off the bed
The best upgrades for my Ender 3 V2 were Bondtech BMG extruder, spool holder and better part cooling. It drastically improved print quality.
hello Austin i just got a Ender 3 and I'm having some trouble with it was curious if you had the same problem when you got yours or if I'm just not doing everything correctly. when i print the test prints out they print perfectly but when I download a file and slice it and turn it into a G code on ultimaker cura it runs the print but doesn't seem to extrude at the correct rate -_- any fixes or tips thx!!
I use my old Galaxy S6Edge as a print server with Octo4a. Works good!
Could the plastic stip at 9:33 be turned up to have the angled grooves flat to the top of the 4040 bar.
That would fill the gap.
I like that extruder fan duct. Is there one for the Ender 3 V2?
The pi is a must for all people. I curently have about 5 in my home doing different things. Cheap game server for older games, 3D print server, but my all time favorite.... the Pihole for disabling all online ads.
little note: at 8:56 you put that piece on wrong it has to sit a little higher
Hello, so what type of printer do you use for your print farm now?
Hello thanks for your videos!! I have a ender 3 pro only to create clay cutters and after 6 pieces the printer is not working well it seems that the walls are not well filled and I don’t change anything , but I have no idea how to fix that again. Can you make a video to show good parameters to cut clay cutters but for really beginners I mean going into each step of the menu to explain what they are? I hate reading manuals and I need help!!! Thanks and gratings from Spain!!!
You mentioned the sales on the Ender 3 Pro and you’re right! I got $100 off of one at microcenter from an instagram add so all-in-all came home with it for $99!!! Insane! First printer I’ve ever built and it was printing within 90 minutes. So happy with it and the quality
can you do a video how to install the magnatic bed + what is you opinion about this?
thanks!
I just purchased my ender 3 pro today. I started with a monoprice voxel two months ago and had to return it. After 2 weeks of learning and research the ender 3 pro is best for my knowledge level and upgrading. Thank you for all of the information. Can't wait for more...
Thanks Chris !! Can't wait for you guys to see the next one ! Happy printing !
What about the power supply silencer? air flow? Temperature? Any issues?
Hi question I have a Ender 3 Pro and I'm new at this, I like your the second Tool Holder what is the settings for it, and the Rail Covers what one do I download there's 9 choices
Lol! You out the vslot covers in upside down! I did the same thing when I put them on my ender...looks much better now!
Great video! Ordered a 3 pro arriving today. These will be some of my first prints (to learn) Thanks! I didn't see the link for the Bowman tube.
Just watched your video and I don't see a link for the tube upgrade?
I used plastic pc tubing for the cable housing. NO issues.
Thanks for the video. I’ll be making some changes to my printer when it shows up.
The Ender 3 Pro doesn't have the electronics fan on the top of the printer so you won't need that cover on the Pro version.
For the bed i def recommend a PEI Flex plate over a Glass bed.
we were running 2 ender 3 Pro's with glass beds 24/7 and have swapped both of those out to PEI Flex plates and def won't go back to the glas beds.
I could not find the files for the fan cover on the bottom of the printer in the description.
Please advise
Is the ender 3 or 3 pro better for first 3d printer?
have stared 3d printing big learning curve cause you may only have good prints so its fun to learn
I would like to know how come that specific model of the Ender 3 pro is different from the rest mine is the same as that one but is a little different can you tell me what’s the model version?
Switch the orientation of the aluminum extrusion covers! The smaller part should be facing “up”.
Great videos!!
Thanks Alex ! Yeah they are definitely in upside down. I think I was too focused on having the textured print side showing haha.
Cheers,
@@AustenHartley They are not upside down, But you did put them in too low. The top surface should be flush with the Aluminium top. The V slots into the V not under it.
@@thack2502 No Alex is right. The smaller bit is the top, and the wider part is the bottom. Originally thought the opposite myself before I printed them for my machine.
@@Matoikey Exactly. It even specifically states to do so in the description ("Insert in the extrusion with the widest part at the bottom."), not to mention that is how it is pictured in the example images.
I was wondering if someone else saw that...
Where is the motor cover STL? I liked that a lot. Great video!
Just some notes, the spool roller w/bearings is really nice been using it for almost a year now, same with both filament guides although I have recently moved the spool holder off to the side and no longer need the guide for the top bar, however, the one that goes on the extruder is still in use, now in regards to the drawers, if you have big hands like me and you manually level your bed DO NOT put this on your printer, I did, thought it was great, put all my tools in it... then I needed to level my bed one day and boy does this drawer get in the way of trying to get at the knobs. I think it lasted maybe a month before I was too frustrated with it to keep in on the printer, and it only lasted that long because I did like it but in the end, it was just too much hassle.
I know I’m 2 years late but uh if I get the glass bed do I have to relevel everything?? I finally got it leveled after 2 weeks and been having a blast printing upgrades but I want the glass bed as well
I just bought the ender 3. I am not sure what programs and slicers are good for it. Could you please help me out.
I real liked the video and updates.
Suzy
You may not like the touch probes but when the bed isn't flat out of the factory, it doesn't matter how much levelling you do... you can't adapt for high and low points across the board by wiping a piece of paper on each corner a couple of times. Touch probes are fantastic, yes it took a bit of set up and messing about, but my printer runs a check every time its switched on and i don't think i've touched the manual dials since installing it.
Hi Austin
Thanks for the video
For the Z screw, do you super glue it?
We haven't got ours to stay on
Thanks Tim
Bed leveling question. Everyone says clockwise raises the bed but for some reason on mine, the front left and rear right will raise when turned clockwise but the rear left and front right need to be turned counterclockwise to raise the bed. Whats going on?
What was the filment that I should use to make the fan attachment next to the print head?
I had a manual bed for years, I won't go back... Love my printers with BL or CR touch. Makes things a ton easier. I think your rail slot covers were supposed to be placed a little higher...
I think the cool part about upgrading your printer is a good idea because it lets you learn to use it at a minimalist lvl. Lights a fire.
Can you recommend a website to purchase material?
with all these extras like building a gamer desk top pc cleanning and cooling
X-Axis motor cover isn't in the list of links
The best chain would need pins to hold it in place properly
So in order to prevent plastic from falling into the slots, we fill them with plastic? Nice
Very nice guideline for Elder use and upgrade
Where do you find on down loads
Just a quick tip, if you have an old phone lying around, then you can use that for octoprint. You can even use the build in camera and flash of the phone.
CR touch helped me a lot. my Ender 3 pro was 79.99, after assembly it didn't even work :( I bought a silent motherboard 4.2.7 and it started printing, however, the aluminum heat bed was so bent up. The previous owner must have been rough with it because I could only print in certain small areas of the bed. when I moved the Y axis I would see the extruder going up and down even after I got a glass bed! So I tightened my bed a bit and got the cl touch and after auto leveling, it can print on the entire surface. I ordered a new aluminum heat bed and I only expect more improvements.
Just subbed really liked the video it is gonna make my 3d printing some much easier
How does one put the item in the computer to print?
Hello, so I’m having problem with my ender 3.It keeps hitting the print/slightly touching the print when it prints and I’m not sure what do do
Can ask if these upgrades work on the Voxelab Aquila??? If not which will work??
bed leveling isnt difficult, and i have never run into issues with it, an auto leveling system is still better for a more consistent result throughout your build plate and only takes an extra 30 seconds and i never have to do it again
I've heard way too many stories of warped glass print beds so there's no way I'm not getting bl touch. Even if I don't need it, it's better to have one than miss it. I'm going to get ender 3 max soon, which ships with glass bed.
Yeah he is completely wrong about ABL. They should be called Auto Bed Level Compensators, since they do not change the actual level of the bed but CAN account for warped beds that are known QC issue with ender 3s
What’s bl touch ?
@@theoneand0nly874 it's a small probe that can be bought seperately and attached to the print head. It's used for automatic bed leveling.
Do you know if the springs are replaceable on the Ender-3 Pro? I don't see the flathead screws on the bed
The screws are Phillips--and the reason you don't see them is, you probably have a magnetic bed attachment that came stock with your printer. You'd have to scrape that off to get to the screw heads.
But you don't have to! Just unscrew your adjustment wheels all the way off and lift the bed off the Y-carriage. The adhesive bed magnet more than holds the screws in place.
The stock springs suck; I didn't realize how bad they were--I replaced mine early on--until I bought a second Ender 3 and the difference between the beds was so night and day. But now they have Silicone bed "spacers" and holy cow, but they're fantastic. The silicone compresses as you tighten the screws down with the adjustment wheels and they have so much more contact area with the bed and carriage, the bed is much, much more stable. Totally worth it.
These are the ones I put on my Ender 3v2: www.amazon.com/dp/B07MH4JQB8
Any upgrade for hellbot hidra plus??
how do you make your own designs because i got a 3d printer for Christmas and so far I've been printing things from thangs and thingiverse but I want to start printing my own designs and was wondering how you do it
fusion 360!
I'd avoid glass beds. I have had nothing by issues with prints and sticking. I've leveled it, Ive cleaned it and it just is a pain. I was able to get it to work with putting painters tape on it but its too cumbersome. Im just getting a flexible stainless steel magnetic mat which should be perfect.
The "ng design" drag chain's design seems wrong to me. It doesn't prevent the wire from bending in a very small arc as I think they should. This chain can bend in an arc with a very small radius, maybe 5mm or less. Which would means that using the chain won't protect the wire from bending fatigue.
Starting new . Which printer do you recommend
Ender 3 !
@@AustenHartley thanks - just bought it
@@kingskord Any time ! You'll love it, welcome to the 3D printing community !
@@AustenHartley i just need set this weekend to watch all of your videos 👍
@@kingskord 100% ! I have another coming out on the 27th that should be useful as well !
4:00. This is no longer needed. I assume the new Ender 3 Pro has the fan at the bottom now instead.
New to the hobby. Just saw this video and WOW great information and layout. 100% subscribe thank you for info.
Question. How did u get video of that print without the extruder in the way as it builds up the print??? Looks so cool and wanna do it myself
Awesome... everything in one place.. Thankyou for sharing 👍👍👍
Bed leveling issues are fixed by leveling after a 30 minute preheat to 5° over what you print
Are these compatible with the v2?
The only reason I have the BL touch is because I have a slight dip. Honestly I don’t even know if the thing is actually working but it’s just something extra on top of a decently trammed printer.
I'm in school for engineering design! Got a sub! I also just ordered my very first printer after getting addicted to it at school.
Where does one buy this from? Local or china?
I don't understand what you're asking me... you can buy 3d printers in nearly every country.. "local" doesn't tell me anything, because idk if you live in a city or in some village in a tiny country.. microcenter sells them.
A .2 second google search will be 100000x more helpful than a stranger on the internet
How to the LEDs power on?
If I have to print the BL Touch support, I must print it with PETG or can I also use PLA?
You'd want to print with petg or abs
@@jayb3385 ok thanks
This is amazing! Thank you so much!! I can't wait to dive into this hobby.
Happy for you !! You’re gunna love it! It will go out Monday .
Thanks Michael !
Considering the upgrades this is gonna be one bad beast, and should hopefully make the dive into the hobby that much more enjoyable!! Congrats and maybe post in Austen's comments from time to time with updates - I'd definitely love a peek I to that (:
yes you do need a bl touch because creality std beds are very bad.
bro why u didn´t install bl touch?
My ender 3 pro doesn’t have an e fan cover also on mine I put in much stronger springs along with the original ones so it is almost impossible to undeveloped it easily I had trouble with them unscrewing themselves
the bearings in your link are 6200-2rs but the print for the filament holder needs 608zz bearings that are smaller, can you check and edit your link please.
Good catch. I will post a comment. I believe the actual amazon listing changed. Will update via comment. Thank you.
got how he does upgrades on an ender PRINTING the parts on a PRUSA?
1:28 your z axis surface have some serious issues all those wobbles
Good stuff, but do you make customer peaces. I need something made.
Still waiting for the link to that Bowden tube
glass bed really huge difference when removing prints
Dam, I'm always late to give aways. Great video!! subscribed!
Have you tried a g10 board? I have one and you dont need ahesive, and it comes off pretty easy.
How about the links to the accessories?
would you buy a ender 3 pro ($100 at microcenter) and mod it, or the ender 3 s1 ($280)
How to speed up printer ?
the slot covers are misplaced sir
chain works well and i had the same ng design one
I appreciate that the ender 2 pro has a couple of these upgrades already but I'm definitely going to print a few of these for it