The 3D Printing Course is Complete. I will link it here - it's 100% free (you can use the link, sign up, take the course, cancel membership, you wont get charged). With this link you also have access to my courses on using Fusion 360 (to learn how to design for 3D Printing) and How to Set Up and Etsy Shop (in case you want to sell 3D Prints), again, all free. skl.sh/3IBseeE
I was recently offered a new job within my facility as a 3D printer operator. I was going into this with almost zero knowledge. Thank you for this, it gives me a slight foothold on the promotion ❤️
I live in Yazd,IRAN🇮🇷 and it is basically a dry desert. I have been printing with ABS and PLA for like 3 or 4 years now since first time I got interested in 3D printing, I have never used any kind of filament dryer and I never had major problems caused by wet filament like too much stringing. Pros of living in a dry desert city ✌😎
About PLA on car parts, I'm using PLA a whole time I'm using 3D printer, some cosmetics on car/in car in black or green, in summer on 40°C so I can say these materials on/in car are around 60°C and no melting, still as new, except the color, color is shading away to more white, so from neon green I have white to green-ish :D
@1:30 lol I wish you said this before saying you should shift your X,Y and Z parts. Luckily mine hasn't even been plugged in yet, so I hope I didn't fuck it.
Would love to see you make a show on how to calibrate a printer for accuracy, i.e filament flow, driver steps etc. Having problems with holes lining up and parts fitting together as well as consistancy. I find your shows really clear and easy to understand good job👍😎🇬🇧👏
Lots of videos of that on RUclips. But even after you do that… these things are not a cnc machine. It’s a hot glue gun on a plasma table with a Z axis… it will never be machine perfect.
I've often found myself stymied by 3D printing way too often. I started out quite a few years back with a simple Monoprice Maker Select V2, and I mostly had issues with corner adhesion. Every time I'd go to level the bed, I could never get it properly leveled either. When I tore the machine apart, I found that its carriage plate was a fairly thin piece of metal that was anything but level. The issues with that printer caused me to stop for a few years, but eventually, I decided that I'd put a bit more money into my next printer(s) to ensure that I got something a bit nicer. (In other words, hopefully with less issues.) Right now, I've got a Creality CR10S Pro V2 and an FLSUN Super Racer. With the Creality, I keep having issues with the left Z-axis side drooping (likely due to the extruder motor being on that side) causing difficulty in leveling the bed. I'm not entirely sure if that suggests that I need to just tighten the V-rollers a bit or if it just needs to be checked ever so often to ensure proper alignment between the two sides. ...or just convert to direct drive and drop the bowden! 😋 I also think it's disabling the heated bed at some point during printing, which is causing some lifting off the bed. The FLSUN is my newer printer, and I ran into a bit of bad luck there as the LCD's touch functionality refuses to work. Fortunately, I have a Raspberry Pi lying around, so I can just upgrade it to Klipper and ignore the malfunctioning hardware. Moral of the story? Spending more money won't guarantee a lack of issues!
I wish I would of found this video before starting my test print >< Thanks so much for taking the time to upload this video. It's been extremely informative and helpful. I've been using a resin printing for 6+ months but FDM feels a bit more complicated and intimidating in comparison...so far. As you said, this should all get easier in time hopefully.
Bed leveling is aligning the x and y plane with your bed. It has nothing to do with actual bubble level. Dont worry about making your bed level if the table its on has a slight slope. The key is that the nozzel is the same distance above the bed as it moves from corner to corner and everywhere in between. Remember your first layer is the most important and it is super thin. So the bed needs to be in plane, or the same distance to the nozzle at all points. Usually within .02mm
@@deedend no they don’t, if you have a 0.2mm layer being put on a bed that’s leveled to a tolerance of +-0.2mm then you will have areas where it’s floating and areas where you have zero extrusion as you’re touching the bed with the nozzle.
I orderd a 3D Printer today, and i'm a total beginner in that field. I will definitly save your video till the printer arrives and refer to it when i set it up. I think your Video is a really good reference point for beginner's =D Keep it up! Getting excited to get my first succesfull print =D
I am a teenager and started a 3d design class a few months ago. I have been really loving it and wanted to know where to start and what printer buy if i want to print at home
Thanks for vid. Some observations though: PLA isnt affected by moisture, its been tested over and over in several channels. Like Makers Muse for instance. Vinyl however is absorbing water alot :) Bed Adhesive aint good to apply to all kinds of beds. For instance Creality Ender 3 that i have, it will ruin it to apply something like a gluestick or whatever. Much better just to clean it with a tissue with water or ethanol/isopropanol to remove fat :)
@@fl1289 that should work good. Remember to clean it well afterwards. And do note that if the filament isn't sticking it can be because of several causes. For instance 2 low temp for nozzle or heatbed, or misaligned bedlevel. Or even due to bad PLA which shrinks/warps a lot. And sometimes using a 1cm brim helps it stick also. Glue is only one tool in the toolbox :)
Very, very informative video. I've got 3 FDM printers (use only the Creality 3 v2), and 1 Creality SLA printer (had it a year and I'm afraid to use it!!). Thank you for this video, subscribed.
Great video! I love that it's straight and to the point without any filler. I just ordered a Prusa Mini last night so now it's time to study up and figure out how to use it! :)
Great video with good information. I just bought my printer , it will arrive next week. I will start with files from some websites. Do you still need a pc for that? What kind of pc you need for using software? And ate they free?
Great guide, thanks for sharing. I am really interested in the in depth course! I ordered a Prusa i3 MK3S+ and i am in the process of learning all the basics and more.
Finding some problems with this video too. I've yet to find other filaments that aren't PLA cheaper than PLA. PLA is always the cheapest. Also, it's sandable alright.
this video is great and has a ton of information in it! good job bro! not to be a debby down but there are a few over-extruded lines on your model, and in the thumbnail (over the doorway, on the top right.) but all in all its a damn good benchy!
haha I was waiting for someone to point that out ! It's definitely not perfect :p It was just standard profile and with the timelapse it's pretty much never perfect. Thanks Technivorous !
I don't have a filament dryer, but I have an old food saver laying around, so if I won't be using a spool for longer than a day or two I'll vacuum seal it with the desiccant it came with.
I'm gonna be the person that says you don't need adhesive. I spend 20 bucks on a marked up glue stick and then bought a pei sheet and have never needed it since lol
Deciding on which printer to get. I love the look of that Prusa in the background! ABS sounds like my material of choice but I'm not comfortable with venting it outside so I need to see how to filter the fumes before they reach the end of the exhaust hose.
Just bought an Elegoo Neptune 3 and I love the auto bed leveling feature. Nothing to adjust manually... just push the button and watch it do it for you! I just got it but so far it seems to work great. Only problem I had was getting the filament to push through the runout sensor but a little persistence got it through. I ran the test print Buddah and it came out gorgeous!
Great to see you post in 2022! This is really helpful for people who want to get started. Question tho: I've been printing a rocket it has a cylinder shape, but it's been leaning towards one side when I stack the 2 cylinder parts together, do you know what could be the causes for leaning prints? do I have to reassemble my printer I may have made a mistake while assembling? ender 3v2 printer
Hopefully will be posting much more in 2022 ! Could be a few things ! Definitely make sure there is no lifting off the bed during the print, adhesive is always good. If the cylinder is hollow there might not be a lot of surface area on the print bed, adding a 5 - 10 mm brim might help. It likely isnt the machine axis. To check. Take a ruler and measure the distance between the X axis at the top and bottom of the machine and see if they are significantly different. Sometimes over-tightening of screws can throw this off, but I dont think that would be the case for this instance.
I started at 50 degrees for my print bed & it wasn't sticking to it but when I cranked it up to 75, works perfectly every time. I just can't get it to store that temp in a pre-set so I have a laminated card taped to the printer with the temps that work best, 75 for bed & 200 for the nozzle as a 'friendly reminder'. Ours was a Christmas gift to my husband last December & I'm loving it ;) The issue was with both the short 'sample string' of what came with the printer & what we ordered from Amazon, I'm pretty sure it was PLA. the printer itself is the Ender 3 Pro.
Can you recommend a good 3d printer for beginners who are looking to exclusively use PET FILAMENT? (that means the nozzle needs to get up to 270°C). No I'm not talking about PETG
Im surprised you say PETG and ABS is cheap whereas PLA isnt. In the UK its very much the opposite. PLA is almost always cheaper than the other 2, even the fancy silk rainbow types are cheaper than basic ABS. Even PVB is cheaper than ABS for the most part.
Loving these vids! We have a Prusa on order and are ready to start into the world of 3d printing. I checked out Fusion 360 and it has a fairly high overhead just to get started. Is there something else you recommend? I'm looking at Blender, but it seems to be a bit overkill for what we're trying to achieve... Unless I make a movie. Lol!
@@AustenHartley Thanks for the info! I got in touch with Autodesk and they referred me to the free Hobby version. Any idea when the course will start up?
I am in about the same place as you are, also have a Prusa on order. On the recommendation of a friend, I have been using Alibre Atom3d for a few days now. 20 odd years ago I was drawing some stuff in 2d Autocad; sometimes that helps me, sometimes I think it holds me back since I think I know how to do something but the 3d software wants me to do it differently from how I remember. Getting it figured out and I will have some of my own design parts to print by the time the Prusa finally arrives. Alibre costs more than free personal use Fusion360 but once you buy it, it's yours and no cloud storage, so you don't have to worry about Autodesk changing their terms or now having to buy a subscription for the software you spent a bunch of time learning if you decide to turn pro. Although Alibre did manage to piss me off right away; morning after I registered, their customer support called me out of the blue to see how it was going, with no regard for time zones... Living in Alaska and working a swing shift, I had a hard time remaining semi-civil at being woken up early.
What graphicd card is good enough for 3d modeling and sculpting models for 3d printing in 2022? Not rendering just be able to work with out lag problems.
I have an Ender 3. I am having difficulty with leveling. The stepper motor (Y) behind the table is tilted in a counterclockwise direction. This causes the table to hit the stepper motor. I'm looking for a way to adjust the stepper motor.
I got a second printer a CR10 S5 and use simplified 3D, they don't list this printer so I used the software for the S4 which is a smaller build area so I set it to the S5 area, my question is can this confuse the printer or the slicer software because everything I tried the model printing infill is soft and outer layer isn't sticking to the infill. The test model on the SD card printed perfect, I don't know what I'm missing!!!
Hey i love your video. and your are good to explain. thanks again. Which 3D printer should I choose have seen a video with cr-10 smart pro and there I had just ordered it before I had seen that video about that printer, and all the issue its had, but i am now in doubt if it is my right choice So now I go and think about whether it should be Ender 6 or Ender 7 But have also looked at the Prusa I3 MK3S + KIT What I want or need to use my 3D Printer to. want a 3D print that is very nice and it looks smooth and not blurred edges. but it is also important it can make things that fit together 100% or close. if you make screws and nuts that will fit together. So there are several things that are important to me. and maybe I demand too much for cheap printer. I'm brand new to the 3D world so I do not have a super sense of it. But I know I want to go into the 3D world and learn and start whit a good 3D Printer, And even maybe do a little projects that i might be able to make some money on. but its only a dream. Would I stand firm if I now bought one or the both. Prusa I3 MK3S + KIT Ender 6 Or Ender 7 Or I bought these Prusa I3 MK3S + KIT CR-10 Smart Pro so i bought 2 printer will the above be a good combo? or what do you say? Hope you can help me a little along the way. Have been inside and seen many videos etc. but has also been confused and in doubt in many directions. hope you have time to reply me and feel free to send me a direct email xpaintbyg@gmail.com Is a little pressured for I get the CR-10 smart pro on Monday but will not unpack it until I just hear your opinion however, I only have a 6 day return right on it. so may very well be quick response if you have the opportunity.
@@AustenHartley so my CR-10 Smart Pro its not so good as CR-10 V3 ? I will buy Prusa MK3S+ but i just buy CR-10 Smart Pro but i can still return it. so you mean CR-10 V3 are better Smart Pro ? Its right undstand ? thx for your answer me :)
I'm surprised you didn't mention ASA It has the same exact properties as ABS except it's UV resistant and does not require a heated chamber or enclosure
So. I just bought a Elegoo Neptune 3 FDM printer. I should say, I have been doing SLA (resin) printing for over a year now and have they down pretty well. When I went to this new printer I thoguht I could just use the same software and files would be just like the resin slicing software... well, it isn't. so a total noob question... does the FDM printer only require the GCODE file to print or does it need the SLA as well? I have several files that I regularly print on my Elegoo Saturn that I want to try on the Neptune but they are completely different formats (.ctb) so i guess I have to go back to the STL file and recreate them for the GCODE file... or is there a direct way to convert them?
Have you done printing on PC? I am trying to make functional parts for an industrial machine using PETG or PC depending on which is better. I tried PLA and ABS, both the finish and strength was lacking. I believe PETG is good for functional parts...any tips? We are using Prusa i3 Mk3 S+
I am using Anycubic M3 max for Chem Printing. I am having issues with areas of the Object Files in Chitubox coming over from Blender geting walls, and or areas that are not on the model, but for some reason the slicer is adding them in there.
Hi there, just recently bought an ender 3 neo, however on cura, there is no ender 3 neo standard settings, how important is it or can I just use the ender 3 standard settings?
Hey! I'd like to do some small scale manufacturing out of my home of a product. What 3D printer would you recommend for printing with regular and flexible filament for under $2,000? Thanks for your time!
If you have not 3d printed before would it be a idea to practice on pla before trying to use abs, also if there's no programming for what you want how do you go about creating your design for slicing? Would abs be better for slicing in mid air as it can be cleaned up?
I hate PETG. It is smeary, blobby and ugly everytime when I try to print it. And strings everywhere. I have no idea about the settings at all and which I have to manipulate for better results. Obviously Im using a prusa mini with the printing profile for it. Totally beginner : D PLA comes out fine, but now my spool is empty and Im left with my second spool which is PETG. X D
im a n00b and want to print dive watch bezels for vintage watches. these will need a small ridge on the inside to clip onto the watch case and will need indented numerals and markings. what material would you recommend for a flat finish and would you print them flat, at an angle or vertically for the best result?
1:35 The amount of current you could generate from simply moving the bed is negligible, and most motherboards have protection in place for reverse current. Stop inducing fear where it doesn't exist.
I want to start 3D printing and start a commercial operation. What would you say the learning curve and time it could take to go from “never done it or even have a printer” to , I got something for sale online.
Dude what is the best pla you recommend, I have been trying a few brand so are okay and some suck. I also am having some under extruding only in some areas, and the wall in that area is pretty much missing, and I have been testing to fix this but nothing has worked.
It really depends on how much effort you use to remove items from your bed. If you use something like Elmer's Purple Glue, or have a bed surface which holds your print securely during printing but releases easily when cool, then you should need to re-level very rarely. If you use scrapers or a hammer to release your prints then you risk disturbing the level.
I live in a climate where the outdoor humidity percentage is rarely above 20%. Since I also will be printing in a room that is air conditioned (which further dehumidifies as well as cools) is it still advisable to invest in a filament dehydrator?
Why would having the power on effect the electricity generated from the stepper motor being moved? it still sends the electricity? Maybe I'm wrong but there has got to be diodes protecting the other components? idk
18:50 the Y & T example is okay but not okay, people have to use their brain and print the T upside-down lol. Ideally you want to avoid as much support as possible but dont cut cheap when its clearly needed. Turn your T into ꓕ and save money
The 3D Printing Course is Complete. I will link it here - it's 100% free (you can use the link, sign up, take the course, cancel membership, you wont get charged). With this link you also have access to my courses on using Fusion 360 (to learn how to design for 3D Printing) and How to Set Up and Etsy Shop (in case you want to sell 3D Prints), again, all free.
skl.sh/3IBseeE
You obviously need a course in webdesign, where you place the course outside the “you must register. Give me your info” wall.
I was recently offered a new job within my facility as a 3D printer operator. I was going into this with almost zero knowledge. Thank you for this, it gives me a slight foothold on the promotion ❤️
What’s the name of the job
I live in Yazd,IRAN🇮🇷 and it is basically a dry desert. I have been printing with ABS and PLA for like 3 or 4 years now since first time I got interested in 3D printing, I have never used any kind of filament dryer and I never had major problems caused by wet filament like too much stringing. Pros of living in a dry desert city ✌😎
About PLA on car parts, I'm using PLA a whole time I'm using 3D printer, some cosmetics on car/in car in black or green, in summer on 40°C so I can say these materials on/in car are around 60°C and no melting, still as new, except the color, color is shading away to more white, so from neon green I have white to green-ish :D
@1:30 lol I wish you said this before saying you should shift your X,Y and Z parts. Luckily mine hasn't even been plugged in yet, so I hope I didn't fuck it.
Would love to see you make a show on how to calibrate a printer for accuracy, i.e filament flow, driver steps etc. Having problems with holes lining up and parts fitting together as well as consistancy. I find your shows really clear and easy to understand good job👍😎🇬🇧👏
Lots of videos of that on RUclips. But even after you do that… these things are not a cnc machine. It’s a hot glue gun on a plasma table with a Z axis… it will never be machine perfect.
Dude, amazing video! I have my first 3D printer on my way and this was super helpful.
I've often found myself stymied by 3D printing way too often. I started out quite a few years back with a simple Monoprice Maker Select V2, and I mostly had issues with corner adhesion. Every time I'd go to level the bed, I could never get it properly leveled either. When I tore the machine apart, I found that its carriage plate was a fairly thin piece of metal that was anything but level. The issues with that printer caused me to stop for a few years, but eventually, I decided that I'd put a bit more money into my next printer(s) to ensure that I got something a bit nicer. (In other words, hopefully with less issues.)
Right now, I've got a Creality CR10S Pro V2 and an FLSUN Super Racer. With the Creality, I keep having issues with the left Z-axis side drooping (likely due to the extruder motor being on that side) causing difficulty in leveling the bed. I'm not entirely sure if that suggests that I need to just tighten the V-rollers a bit or if it just needs to be checked ever so often to ensure proper alignment between the two sides. ...or just convert to direct drive and drop the bowden! 😋 I also think it's disabling the heated bed at some point during printing, which is causing some lifting off the bed. The FLSUN is my newer printer, and I ran into a bit of bad luck there as the LCD's touch functionality refuses to work. Fortunately, I have a Raspberry Pi lying around, so I can just upgrade it to Klipper and ignore the malfunctioning hardware.
Moral of the story? Spending more money won't guarantee a lack of issues!
So clear! I could listen to you for hours!
3D Printing Course Sign Up
(for anyone who is interested in a deep dive into 3D Printing)
forms.gle/sJUrmcabhDoJag1RA
The course is done and available for anyone to take for free :)
skl.sh/3IBseeE
So glad I found this video, once I get out of the military I too am going to school for mechanical engineering!
Thanks found this very informative and will be watching the 3D Printing Course
Thank you for making this video I've been having treble with 3d printing for two weeks now and this video really helped
I wish I would of found this video before starting my test print >< Thanks so much for taking the time to upload this video. It's been extremely informative and helpful. I've been using a resin printing for 6+ months but FDM feels a bit more complicated and intimidating in comparison...so far. As you said, this should all get easier in time hopefully.
Bed leveling is aligning the x and y plane with your bed. It has nothing to do with actual bubble level. Dont worry about making your bed level if the table its on has a slight slope. The key is that the nozzel is the same distance above the bed as it moves from corner to corner and everywhere in between. Remember your first layer is the most important and it is super thin. So the bed needs to be in plane, or the same distance to the nozzle at all points. Usually within .02mm
You mean 0.2mm I hope!
@@deedend no they don’t, if you have a 0.2mm layer being put on a bed that’s leveled to a tolerance of +-0.2mm then you will have areas where it’s floating and areas where you have zero extrusion as you’re touching the bed with the nozzle.
Best video I’ve seen. Thanks.
I orderd a 3D Printer today, and i'm a total beginner in that field. I will definitly save your video till the printer arrives and refer to it when i set it up. I think your Video is a really good reference point for beginner's =D Keep it up! Getting excited to get my first succesfull print =D
I am a teenager and started a 3d design class a few months ago. I have been really loving it and wanted to know where to start and what printer buy if i want to print at home
Craft spray adhesive is good for adhesion, BUT I take particular care to remove the glass plate and apply it cold to reduce the fire risk.
Thanks for vid.
Some observations though:
PLA isnt affected by moisture, its been tested over and over in several channels. Like Makers Muse for instance. Vinyl however is absorbing water alot :)
Bed Adhesive aint good to apply to all kinds of beds. For instance Creality Ender 3 that i have, it will ruin it to apply something like a gluestick or whatever. Much better just to clean it with a tissue with water or ethanol/isopropanol to remove fat :)
What do you think about glue stick on the ender 3 v2 glass bed
@@fl1289 that should work good. Remember to clean it well afterwards. And do note that if the filament isn't sticking it can be because of several causes. For instance 2 low temp for nozzle or heatbed, or misaligned bedlevel. Or even due to bad PLA which shrinks/warps a lot. And sometimes using a 1cm brim helps it stick also.
Glue is only one tool in the toolbox :)
@@fl1289 for glass bed I had great resoults using sugar disolved in water. Sticks like crazy when hot, releases very easy when it cools down
Can't wait to 3D print the Shock Cannon from Ratchet and Clank Up Your Arsenal
Very, very informative video. I've got 3 FDM printers (use only the Creality 3 v2), and 1 Creality SLA printer (had it a year and I'm afraid to use it!!). Thank you for this video, subscribed.
Hey, if your reading this I need help, at 5:49 was he talking about Celsius or Fahrenheit? Thank you and have an amazing day.
Ventilate with a pool vacuum hose, and an old computer cooling fan. The fan should be on the outlet of the exhaust end.
Great video! I love that it's straight and to the point without any filler. I just ordered a Prusa Mini last night so now it's time to study up and figure out how to use it! :)
Great video. It is the first video I have seen about 3D printing and I understood very well. Great information. Thank you
Thanks Martin !
Thanks for putting this very comprehensive content together.
Great video with good information. I just bought my printer , it will arrive next week. I will start with files from some websites. Do you still need a pc for that?
What kind of pc you need for using software? And ate they free?
Great guide, thanks for sharing.
I am really interested in the in depth course!
I ordered a Prusa i3 MK3S+ and i am in the process of learning all the basics and more.
Same. Waiting for mine killing time on thouse guides!
Lots of good stuff here thanks for the video
This is THE video I've been searching for.
Finding some problems with this video too. I've yet to find other filaments that aren't PLA cheaper than PLA. PLA is always the cheapest. Also, it's sandable alright.
this video is great and has a ton of information in it! good job bro! not to be a debby down but there are a few over-extruded lines on your model, and in the thumbnail (over the doorway, on the top right.) but all in all its a damn good benchy!
haha I was waiting for someone to point that out ! It's definitely not perfect :p It was just standard profile and with the timelapse it's pretty much never perfect.
Thanks Technivorous !
Awesome video... Thank you
to print T... i think the wise choise is just turn upside down so that it can have underneath support and would use less material to print
I don't have a filament dryer, but I have an old food saver laying around, so if I won't be using a spool for longer than a day or two I'll vacuum seal it with the desiccant it came with.
This was really helpful
Very good video. I’m a newbie and this has been very helpful. I liked and subscribed. Thanks for sharing
I put a layer of blue paint tape on the bed for first layer adhesive and heat insulation
Awesome video!
Do you or can you do a video on prusa slicer, please?
Thanks!!
I was skipping around alot, but did you do this all in one take?
I'm gonna be the person that says you don't need adhesive. I spend 20 bucks on a marked up glue stick and then bought a pei sheet and have never needed it since lol
More details about z offset and bed leveling is needed.
Deciding on which printer to get. I love the look of that Prusa in the background! ABS sounds like my material of choice but I'm not comfortable with venting it outside so I need to see how to filter the fumes before they reach the end of the exhaust hose.
Just bought an Elegoo Neptune 3 and I love the auto bed leveling feature. Nothing to adjust manually... just push the button and watch it do it for you! I just got it but so far it seems to work great. Only problem I had was getting the filament to push through the runout sensor but a little persistence got it through. I ran the test print Buddah and it came out gorgeous!
Wow. Great job!
I have flashforge adventurer 3 I love it no fail at all but i made some upgrades to it
Great to see you post in 2022! This is really helpful for people who want to get started.
Question tho: I've been printing a rocket it has a cylinder shape, but it's been leaning towards one side when I stack the 2 cylinder parts together, do you know what could be the causes for leaning prints? do I have to reassemble my printer I may have made a mistake while assembling?
ender 3v2 printer
Hopefully will be posting much more in 2022 !
Could be a few things ! Definitely make sure there is no lifting off the bed during the print, adhesive is always good. If the cylinder is hollow there might not be a lot of surface area on the print bed, adding a 5 - 10 mm brim might help. It likely isnt the machine axis. To check. Take a ruler and measure the distance between the X axis at the top and bottom of the machine and see if they are significantly different. Sometimes over-tightening of screws can throw this off, but I dont think that would be the case for this instance.
@@AustenHartley Looking forward to it .
I will check this out, thanks for the help!
I started at 50 degrees for my print bed & it wasn't sticking to it but when I cranked it up to 75, works perfectly every time. I just can't get it to store that temp in a pre-set so I have a laminated card taped to the printer with the temps that work best, 75 for bed & 200 for the nozzle as a 'friendly reminder'. Ours was a Christmas gift to my husband last December & I'm loving it ;) The issue was with both the short 'sample string' of what came with the printer & what we ordered from Amazon, I'm pretty sure it was PLA. the printer itself is the Ender 3 Pro.
Your slicing software will have the temp setting you can set in the profile for the type of filament. Cura has an entire section for temps.
Awsome😂 thank you
No one mentions on any videos if a mac OS works with 3D printers-no mention of software will work on a mac and which software.
Arent you sending power back to the machine even when its on? Please explain everything
Can you recommend a good 3d printer for beginners who are looking to exclusively use PET FILAMENT? (that means the nozzle needs to get up to 270°C). No I'm not talking about PETG
is that a Havit keyboard i think i have that exact one.
Awesome videos! What kind of 3d printing business do you run?
Thanks Chas ! We do Engineering Design and 3D Printing. Everything from parts tools and prototypes to game design !
Im surprised you say PETG and ABS is cheap whereas PLA isnt. In the UK its very much the opposite. PLA is almost always cheaper than the other 2, even the fancy silk rainbow types are cheaper than basic ABS. Even PVB is cheaper than ABS for the most part.
Friend,I really appreciate your work. We are looking for reviewers, would you like to review Longer's 3D printer & laser engraver?
I'm new to the concept, can anyone say which ones better for starters, Creality Ender 3 Pro vs ELEGOO Neptune 4 Pro?
oh neat, my nozzle was too close to the print bed, the more you know :p
im 3 years in and still alot to learn
Always !!
Loving these vids! We have a Prusa on order and are ready to start into the world of 3d printing. I checked out Fusion 360 and it has a fairly high overhead just to get started. Is there something else you recommend? I'm looking at Blender, but it seems to be a bit overkill for what we're trying to achieve... Unless I make a movie. Lol!
Tinkercard is a free online design site that you can check out ! Fusion is pretty easy after you understand the basics !
@@AustenHartley Thanks for the info! I got in touch with Autodesk and they referred me to the free Hobby version. Any idea when the course will start up?
@@bobbymurray4362 Awesome work ! Check my fusion 360 for 3D printing video and the link is there !
I am in about the same place as you are, also have a Prusa on order. On the recommendation of a friend, I have been using Alibre Atom3d for a few days now. 20 odd years ago I was drawing some stuff in 2d Autocad; sometimes that helps me, sometimes I think it holds me back since I think I know how to do something but the 3d software wants me to do it differently from how I remember. Getting it figured out and I will have some of my own design parts to print by the time the Prusa finally arrives.
Alibre costs more than free personal use Fusion360 but once you buy it, it's yours and no cloud storage, so you don't have to worry about Autodesk changing their terms or now having to buy a subscription for the software you spent a bunch of time learning if you decide to turn pro. Although Alibre did manage to piss me off right away; morning after I registered, their customer support called me out of the blue to see how it was going, with no regard for time zones... Living in Alaska and working a swing shift, I had a hard time remaining semi-civil at being woken up early.
@@bobbymurray4362 i personally find inventor a bit easier than fusion 360, but it is around the same price point.
What graphicd card is good enough for 3d modeling and sculpting models for 3d printing in 2022? Not rendering just be able to work with out lag problems.
can you work and sleep in the same room the 3d printer is at? (printing with PLA)
It’s fine. Only abs produces toxic fumes. I go to sleep like a baby with the background noise of my 3D printer 😂
I have an Ender 3. I am having difficulty with leveling. The stepper motor (Y) behind the table is tilted in a counterclockwise direction. This causes the table to hit the stepper motor. I'm looking for a way to adjust the stepper motor.
I recently bought a creality v2 ender neo. What is the best nozzle size too print with?
Can one achieve reasonable ventilation when using ABS by putting the printer operation in a garage?
Very clear and concise learning video, Thank You!
One of my favorite materials is Nylon. It's not good for parts that are subject to high humidity or submerged. Nylon is very tough.
Unless Walmart decides to start selling filament, I’m stuck with mail order…..
I got a second printer a CR10 S5 and use simplified 3D, they don't list this printer so I used the software for the S4 which is a smaller build area so I set it to the S5 area, my question is can this confuse the printer or the slicer software because everything I tried the model printing infill is soft and outer layer isn't sticking to the infill. The test model on the SD card printed perfect, I don't know what I'm missing!!!
Hey i love your video. and your are good to explain. thanks again.
Which 3D printer should I choose
have seen a video with cr-10 smart pro and there I had just ordered it before I had seen that video about that printer, and all the issue its had,
but i am now in doubt if it is my right choice
So now I go and think about whether it should be Ender 6 or Ender 7
But have also looked at the Prusa I3 MK3S + KIT
What I want or need to use my 3D Printer to.
want a 3D print that is very nice and it looks smooth and not blurred edges.
but it is also important it can make things that fit together 100% or close.
if you make screws and nuts that will fit together.
So there are several things that are important to me. and maybe I demand too much for cheap printer.
I'm brand new to the 3D world so I do not have a super sense of it.
But I know I want to go into the 3D world and learn and start whit a good 3D Printer,
And even maybe do a little projects that i might be able to make some money on. but its only a dream.
Would I stand firm if I now bought one or the both.
Prusa I3 MK3S + KIT
Ender 6 Or Ender 7
Or I bought these
Prusa I3 MK3S + KIT
CR-10 Smart Pro
so i bought 2 printer will the above be a good combo?
or what do you say?
Hope you can help me a little along the way.
Have been inside and seen many videos etc. but has also been confused and in doubt in many directions.
hope you have time to reply me and feel free to send me a direct email
xpaintbyg@gmail.com
Is a little pressured for I get the CR-10 smart pro on Monday
but will not unpack it until I just hear your opinion
however, I only have a 6 day return right on it. so may very well be quick response if you have the opportunity.
Prusa MK3S+ will be the best option. If you want large bed - CR10 V3. If you don’t need large bed and have the budget - only prusa machines
@@AustenHartley so my CR-10 Smart Pro its not so good as CR-10 V3 ?
I will buy Prusa MK3S+
but i just buy CR-10 Smart Pro but i can still return it. so you mean CR-10 V3 are better Smart Pro ?
Its right undstand ?
thx for your answer me :)
I'm surprised you didn't mention ASA It has the same exact properties as ABS except it's UV resistant and does not require a heated chamber or enclosure
So. I just bought a Elegoo Neptune 3 FDM printer. I should say, I have been doing SLA (resin) printing for over a year now and have they down pretty well. When I went to this new printer I thoguht I could just use the same software and files would be just like the resin slicing software... well, it isn't. so a total noob question... does the FDM printer only require the GCODE file to print or does it need the SLA as well? I have several files that I regularly print on my Elegoo Saturn that I want to try on the Neptune but they are completely different formats (.ctb) so i guess I have to go back to the STL file and recreate them for the GCODE file... or is there a direct way to convert them?
Do you make design focustomers😅
Have you done printing on PC? I am trying to make functional parts for an industrial machine using PETG or PC depending on which is better. I tried PLA and ABS, both the finish and strength was lacking. I believe PETG is good for functional parts...any tips? We are using Prusa i3 Mk3 S+
I am using Anycubic M3 max for Chem Printing. I am having issues with areas of the Object Files in Chitubox coming over from Blender geting walls, and or areas that are not on the model, but for some reason the slicer is adding them in there.
Hi there, just recently bought an ender 3 neo, however on cura, there is no ender 3 neo standard settings, how important is it or can I just use the ender 3 standard settings?
Hey! I'd like to do some small scale manufacturing out of my home of a product. What 3D printer would you recommend for printing with regular and flexible filament for under $2,000? Thanks for your time!
100% prusa . Link in description !
If you have not 3d printed before would it be a idea to practice on pla before trying to use abs, also if there's no programming for what you want how do you go about creating your design for slicing? Would abs be better for slicing in mid air as it can be cleaned up?
I hate PETG.
It is smeary, blobby and ugly everytime when I try to print it. And strings everywhere.
I have no idea about the settings at all and which I have to manipulate for better results.
Obviously Im using a prusa mini with the printing profile for it.
Totally beginner : D
PLA comes out fine, but now my spool is empty and Im left with my second spool which is PETG. X D
Do I need to create the mesh inside, on the 3D software or is it created by the slicer software?
It is turned on by default in Cura, which is the slicer software I use.
im a n00b and want to print dive watch bezels for vintage watches. these will need a small ridge on the inside to clip onto the watch case and will need indented numerals and markings. what material would you recommend for a flat finish and would you print them flat, at an angle or vertically for the best result?
1:35 The amount of current you could generate from simply moving the bed is negligible, and most motherboards have protection in place for reverse current. Stop inducing fear where it doesn't exist.
I use strong hold hairspray
I want to start 3D printing and start a commercial operation. What would you say the learning curve and time it could take to go from “never done it or even have a printer” to , I got something for sale online.
1.5 months !
Dude what is the best pla you recommend, I have been trying a few brand so are okay and some suck. I also am having some under extruding only in some areas, and the wall in that area is pretty much missing, and I have been testing to fix this but nothing has worked.
I think I put it in the vid description ! If you dont wanna use amazon, I use filaments.ca for bulk orders but they are Canadian based.
Hey I got some questions for you if you have some time to help me out with them
I leveled the bed when I first set up my printer a few weeks ago. How often do I need to do it?
It really depends on how much effort you use to remove items from your bed. If you use something like Elmer's Purple Glue, or have a bed surface which holds your print securely during printing but releases easily when cool, then you should need to re-level very rarely. If you use scrapers or a hammer to release your prints then you risk disturbing the level.
Isn't there such thing as ABA that is trying to get bigger than ABS and it doesn't have those fumes.
How about PET
Sorry about that I see your design course after I commented.
What do you think of Tinkercad vs Fusion 360?
Learn Fusion 360 ! Definitely worth it. Tinkercad is more of a toy rather than design software haha.
I live in a climate where the outdoor humidity percentage is rarely above 20%. Since I also will be printing in a room that is air conditioned (which further dehumidifies as well as cools) is it still advisable to invest in a filament dehydrator?
I still would ! Depending where you buy your filament from, before it reaches you, there is a decent chance it was sitting somewhere humid !
NO. I live in humid florida and NEVER have a problem in a air conditioned home at 75 degrees...
I use a cheap glue stick and it works just fine
Can I use CATIA or SolidWork to design and transfer file?
How do I follow to learn more?
Bro couldn;t you have said the bit about it being powered on BEFORE you said move the axes? Im crying lol
Why would having the power on effect the electricity generated from the stepper motor being moved? it still sends the electricity? Maybe I'm wrong but there has got to be diodes protecting the other components? idk
I was almost finished with a print then spaghetti any ideas why
18:50 the Y & T example is okay but not okay, people have to use their brain and print the T upside-down lol. Ideally you want to avoid as much support as possible but dont cut cheap when its clearly needed. Turn your T into ꓕ and save money
Where are you finding filaments that are cheaper than PLA?
Abs is Cheaper then pla at the moment in Australia