Is there any reason to buy this printer over a K1? Because the K1 was on sale around BF for $350 and the V3KE is like $270 Hard to see how this printer will come in at less than $350 and more than $270. It really doesn't leave much room price wise. I am really curious what this model and the K1 And V3 KE will be selling for next BF. Especially with new K series about to be released too. This is a great time to wait it out
Overhang at 30 degrees is likely related to the overhang print speed for that angle being too high. At 20 degrees it's probably hit the next speed category and slowed down further, same with 15.
@@Liberty4Ever Yes, exactly that sort of thing. I've never used CrealityPrint, but I'd be surprised if it wasn't doing something similar, and for whatever overhang range speed "bucket" setting that the 30° overhang fell into, it's likely the settings for that bracket group needs to be tweaked better.
Man this Machine Whips around. Zippy is the best way to say it. Got the first 24 hours of printing on it done. Really impressed with quality of the prints at speed. You said it best @27:18 It's a Bedslinger K1 with some updates.
@@martinskamla6789 ALL.... the KE and SE also, has a flaw from fabric, that the right bed rod, it doesn't fit well and it dances, apart from that, the Z axis is the most inconsistent thing I've seen in a long time, the base plate itself bends...
@@JuanCarlos_3design Mine's a complete mess. the KE is getting sent back beds warped and nothing but issues. Was fine for the first week but the bed started to warp assuming from the insulation design on the bottom
You are saying that because you have never tried this printer, this printer is piece of "something". I don't understand why so many good reviews about it when all of them know this thing is just wasting of money. KE is amazing printer, it's better option then this for way less money. This new V3 can't do good first layer, cooling fan is not good enough for harder prints, it's hard to load filament in it, you can't adjust zoffset manually until prints starts, you can't see auto leveling results at all to see how uneven your bed is.... I had SE, now i have KE and new V3, this last one is a huge fail, only good things about it are looks and nice screen.
@@bl4de938 I do own one so I feel qualified to comment on the build quality. And the V3 having all the flaws you list doesn't make the KE any better. Creality need to step up their QC or they will not survive.
This is a dope machine. I loved finding a few of the little surprises like the new boards and the AUX fan. Creality is stepping up in my opinion. This thing feels FRESH.
Completely changed the direction the entire market was going, its not just Creality. Everyone is stepping their game up now which we will all benefit from. What's going to be fun to watch is all the Bambu fan boys getting butt hurt when other companies start making better machines that are actually open source as they should be and not the stupid closed off walled garden proprietary ecosystem bs that Bambu has been getting away with.
@@dankcincy What you don't seem to have noticed is that they've been becoming more open source lately, and while I'm definitely not in favor of donut walling modifications to things ((coughcrapple)), it's not like their printers need masses of upgrades to work optimally either (also the first part of what you said was said immediately before you said it)
@@TS_Mind_Swept You're right, I haven't noticed. As soon as I saw it was a closed ecosystem, I never gave them a second look. I'll never buy anything in this space that's not opened up. Closed ecosystems go against everything 3D printing is about.
@@NathanBuildsRobotsI know, I was following it and saw you at 2:20:00 (timestamp) a bit confused with the result, which you attributed to changing the settings mid-print. By the way: Does the printer have "power loss recovery" or not (it didn't work in live)?
Hi Nathan, V3 and CR10SE are very similar at the price. V3 is a sturdy, smaller and faster printer than CR10SE. Is there any advantage of CR10SE over V3?
The drive side of the belt is straight and parallel to the Y axis (side that is attached to the bed). The return side of the belt is off-angle, but this doesnt matter. It could take an S-shaped return path. Some belts have idler tensioners that bend the belt back and forth on its way back to the drive pulley, but it doesn't actually make a difference.
why? why are they sticking to the 220x220 bedsize? breakout and up the standard, 275x275 would be a good intermediate size and make it worth upgrading to a new machine for some of us.
Looks like you're wanting to see the Plus model..... Just stay tuned ;) I think creality should step up to 230x230. Their standard plate is already 235x235, they are only using the center 220x220 portion. But when you get that far out onto the edges you end up with pretty uneven heating.
Any idea if there will be one, this looks like a brilliant printer, just wish it was ~300mm^3 Any recommendations? So many printers nowadays it's hard to choose
Nice video! Yeah it's been shown that Creality's nebula cam works out of the box which should mean k1 camera also works out of the box and also any random webcam should work if you get root and make some boot script changes
Hi Nathan! In your "wrap up" you sound exactly like myself. "I just got fed up with them", or something like that. I now have an E3V3KE, and I am super happy with it. At least for now, but I will look more at this E3V3. It has a shorter name anyway.😀
Hi! For a non-beginner, but also non-professional hobby 3D home printing, which one would you recommend, this Ender 3 V3 3D CoreXY or the AnkerMake M5C maybe or Flashforge AD5M (mainly from the point of view of: print quality, supply of parts, PETG and TPU printing, self-designed objects that require more special slicing settings and filament change multicolor printing)?
for the 20 degree overhangs it might be that the layers were a little more than 0.2mm apart making it seem better since the droop would be more consistent then if the premineter was barely touching the previous perimeter like on the 30 degree overhang but that just my theory
I've been waiting for a round 3d printer (round track) with a hotend that can tilt, so just about every surface can be a top surface and can be ironed (except the bottom surface, but that don't need to be ironed). You could also print perfect circles with it and make parts with no layer lines. I think it would greatly increase maneuverability and printability without having to add more axes (axis plural) and more motors. I think an excellent design could be done with 3 motors/axis. Could do X-Y and rotation with 2 motors and the tilt would be a 3rd, even though a 90 degree tilting motor would not normally be the same kind of motor. Also, the bed wouldn't have to move, so the footprint of the machine could be smaller than some others too.
That top rail running on a bushing .. and with a spring. Much like a inkjet printer. I have a large format inkjet, and it's important to keep a rail, that has a bushing running on it, clean and ever so slightly lubricated. Having it exposed like tbis may attract dust, and that bushing will bit be happy.
Some youtuber went to recent creality booth, the agent said, the going to release new multi filament/color printer, AND also multi color/filament for currently existing printer. Soon this year
@@ZappyOhbecause it’s not easy to do. Prusa tried for years and failed. Bambu changed the 3d printing world with the AMS. Now they are all scurrying to catch up.
Are you sure you can't adjust the flow Nathan? It doesn't have the expert mode that Creality just pushed out on the K1 series. My k1 got an update a few weeks ago that now permits us to adjust the speed, flow, z height, and nozzle PID calibration. Mine is rooted so it had it before but it was nice that Creality added it to the stock software.
Nathan only mentioned Bambu Lab by name in a positive light in this video. I think he's hoping Bambu starts sending him review printers. 😛 The burn on the sparking heater cables was by inference but most of us knew he was talking about the big bam boo.
Hi Nathan, sort of a broad question but if you could only have one printer, would you choose the K1 (not Max) or the Ender-3 V3 Plus? Love your detailed videos btw!
imo K1C is much more capable. Ender 3 V3 is also nice but the K1C can do ABS and handle slightly higher print speeds making it a better option. If you don't need the enclosure also take a look at the K1 SE, it's $360+ free shipping and discounts
i dont get why they keep using the bedslinger design for high speed printing? the input shaping will get problems when you have BIG prints on the bed. its a difference if you sling around a 300-400g bed empty or this bed plus 800g of a print. A point would be the price ... but the core xy model is just 100 bux more (with an enclosure) than the bed slinger. so whats the point? and since it is no more build from aluminum extrusions the options for easy mods also are limited. so i dont get it.
also if there is a big print on the bed at high speed the inertia will lead to other problems, since very most bed slinger beds are mounted in a way that there is flex. (if by springs, or the long rods and plates reaching to the corners.)
They made a really nice printer that is a total over kill finally. Only thing you mentioned is the fine tuning the heatsink hotend fan needs a thermostat and to tune the fan accordingly. Longer life spam for the fan and reduced noise. I want them to male a 2pro update ı really want a compact printer. With an over kill spec. £359 for xz its expensive ı would really love the see a 2prov3 all of the weight saving and cable management for £250 would be a sweet spot. Im looking fir bew printer and flashforge m5 for £299 is sweeter than the xz right now
Other than someone who does volume printing of files that z hop constantly or maybe a counter to crap lead screws causing artifacts, Core XZ really feels like the answer to a question nobody is asking. Maybe they got cost savings pulling things from their K1 motion system over here, they do like cost savings.
I thought the same thing before getting some hands on time with this machine. But visually, it's really clean, and well built. CoreXZ vs I3 really doesnt matter as much as overall build quality and attention to detail. Maybe it's an unnecessary marketting fluff feature, but they pulled it off correctly at least.
I bought a BTT Manta M5P which I originally wanted to put in my Mingda Magican Pro. But I'm also kinda tempted to build a completely new printer instead. Any suggestions?
A bit bummed by the proprietary castings etc reducing modability compared to regular Ender 3s, but the fact that it's a core XZ is interesting- taking a page out of the Voron Switchwire/Enderwire mod notebook? With vanilla Klipper this actually looks like a pretty good package.
Very thorough as always. This is the first Creality printer to geab my attention in a while. Got one ordered. Curious about the nozzle situation - couldn't find replacements to order yet or a 0.6mm.
As a noob, I’m enjoying the Ender 3 v3. What it lacks in mods it makes up in ease of use. The side loading is a bit of a pain. I’ve had one spool get tangled, so I’d like to upgrade to a better spool holder or loading system. With it being new still, I’ve had to order the “unicorn” nozzle directly from Creality. Microcenter didn’t stock them. Still waiting on what the two empty screw holes at the top, are for.
I think so. The toolhead is very light, which helps, then they have some springs on the Z axis linear rods that would absorb some of the energy if it were to come falling down somehow.
Great review and overview of this printer. I used to have the Ender 3 S1 and it was my "Workhorse" printer. This one looks to be similar, but with some significant differences too. Like you, I wish it had the ability to "MOD" some things, like I would like to see a light bar option, even if it were just the screw holes to add that feature by purchasing a light bar from the 3S1 or a similar sized model. What app did you use for sound testing? That one looked feature-rich and even if there was a fee it seemed like a good app to have.
Finally! A properly QA'd and tested product from Creality that will print out of the box without having to "mod" it first. They're finally catching on after watching Bambu eat their lunch.
I'm surprised that Voron was not mentioned once. I think that for both of these printers they borrowed a lot of design decisions from Voron. Also the switchwire was kind of designed to be able to convert an existing bed slinger instead of making it from scratch. A nice side effect of it being core XZ is that Z hopping is very fast and it can prevent stringing and oozing by not taking too long to lift. During the spike test it is not hopping though.
Thank you for this review! I have a question, does this also let you change the speed on the display during printing? The K1 has that option when clicking the speed on the display that lets you use ultrafast normal slow and silent.
I was too impatient and brought the KE thinking it would be great anyway, well it is but mine took a bit to get to print, it was 2mm out from opposing corners, I levelled the X axis and now it is 1mm front to back out and does print very well, I would be much happier if it was more level but in my stubbornness I brought it as an out of the box good print printer so I refuse to mod it,,, for now anyway. I will end up with the V3 after it is available in Au, it looks much better and I believe it will be in most ways. I still have the S1 pro, I have found it to be so reliable and consistent. The K1 max has also been great, consistent & reliable
That's a Die Cast Aluminum base? Looks like stamped sheet metal to me. I think Die Cast would be thicker and heavier, but I think aluminum can be die casted pretty thin. Not sur of how thin though.
What are the experiences after two months of use with the first layer at normal (CrealityPrint) recommended speeds? Simple question - simple answer if possible. Thank you.
Im confused so the regular e3 v3 is better than the e3 v3 KE? If the KE is also like a K1 what is the difference? The structure material or design? Can someone explain the trim level of the e3 v3 for me? Like in cars.
E3V3KE is like an original E3 that has been vastly improved with mods. E3V3 is brand new from the ground up. The most fundamental difference being core xz on the E3V3 and z axis leadscrews on the KE. And other less significant improvements elsewhere. I’m kind of trying to decide between these models myself. I’m not convinced that core xz is better.
@@andrewmiller6051 thanks for this bro, me too looking around for my 2nd 3d printer, i google some more and for me CoreXZ is not really worth it for the price compare with the KE. maybe a V2 of CoreXZ then i will go with that. but for now im going with the KE. and i can also do 100 flow rate if i change the nozzle too :)
I'm a relative newbie to the 3DP world, and I think I'm missing something about this "Core XZ" thing. This seems just the same as the previous Ender 3's. That is, the bed goes back and forward (X axis), the print head goes side to side (Y axis) and vertically (up/down the gantry - the Z axis). So how is it different? Can someone explain please? (Googling for an answer did not help by the way). Perhaps I'm misunderstanding the whole concept.
Basically the X and Z are driven by 2 identical but mirrored belt loops. On most normal Ender 3s the X is driven by 1 simple belt loop for X, and 1 leadscrew for Z. It's kind of a technical difference that doesn't actually mean a whole lot to the end user, but it is an interesting design configuration.
@Nathan Builds Robots I was about to purchase the printer on the German store. It doesn't exist there though. I next tried EU store, it says it's already sold out.. the US still works. When will it be available on the German store - or more generally on the EU store?
CoreXZ is not a terrible idea from a manufacturing standpoint. With CoreXZ you get: - reduced BOM (sourcing straight z-screws is a pain) - one less dust collecting and grease spreading surface, always full of lubricant - dual motor X - dual motor Z - eliminate all the issues related to the Z-woble and single Z-screw beam sagging - smaller footprint and frame dimensions, much slicker and denser design as a result You get all of this with only 2 motors and a pile of bearings. It's a splendid bedslinger synergy. It comes with a price of a much higher frame geometry and rigidity requirements. But those qualities are a __must__ in any modern competitive device. Thanks to LH-Stinger, in a year Aliexpress would be full of lightweight carbon-fiber-bed mods for it. It would put it in an even better speed place. Slanted frame beams same as V3 plus model wouldn't hurt too. But for use at home, from standpoints of noise, air quality and layer adhesion, current market fully enclosed cubic printers are unreachable. For $400 qidiq1pro or k1 are a absolute no-brainers for me, V3 is just a waste of money.
Yeah I agree. The frame was optimized for the V3 SE, then they turbocharged it for the KE and it just isn't stiff enough to maintain print quality at high speeds. If you turn the speeds down it's fine, like 2x SE speeds. Problem is they set the stock profiles to run at like 4x the SE speeds.
has a A1 actually caught fire yet? I know the cords could lead to fire but your wording made it sound like that actually happened with Bambu. Which I can't remember happening since the Anet A8 days.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I would prefer to have Orcaslicer and real Klipper like my rooted KE, but for a print farm yeah the 3 V3 no suffix with Creality Print is a really good start
If I could buy the Ender-3 V2 for $150 USD ($200 CND), should I do it? I know a store that has a bunch in their warehouse. Creality website doesn't have the V2 anymore. I've been using the original Ender-3 Pro for five years now and really happy with it. I have no idea what to upgrade to.
Personally, I’d opt for the v3 SE for $50 more The direct drive extruder and auto bed leveling is certainly worth that if the MSRP is similar to the US pricing of $199
good friend of mine was getting no bed adhesion at all. turns out the paper tissues (flue season) he got as a gift from the pharmacy contained camomile oil. lol
I'll wait for a version 2 of this very printer but I think this and the the K1(to a lesser degree) are steps towards Creality redeeming themselves. I know everyone and their mom has Enders...but I can't tell u how many times I hear those same people compalin about those old printers when I'm strolling through a Microcenter. I actively blocked a salesman from showing a mom a Neo(she was complaining about bed adhesion on a v2 she had) when there was the new KE and SE's right behind them.
I bit the bullet and got this machine on sale at MicroCenter. Under 300 is a good deal for the features u get. I paid more than that to upgrade an old printer. I don’t need the plus model. I use this just like any other Klipper machine I use. However, Creality’s own UI is unimpressive.
Could this lead to consumer choice overload? So many printers coming from creality recently. If it was me starting now, I wouldn't know which one to pick
Creality has always been releasing a bunch of printers, then never retiring them. You can *still* buy the original Ender 3 if you really want to. As far as what to pick: Pick the K1 or Ender 3 V3 from this video. Don't bother at all with their older printers.
Nathan is the CHAD for 3D Printing. Can't wait for Nathan to actually Builds Robots because I love Robots Making. Btw, i Just watch your livestream 4 hours before now i got this video. yay
On my ender 3 I made my own holders. The one that hung out to the left was actually more popular than the one that faces backwards, but both from the base.@@kshepherd2005
I liked my Neptune 4. It printed well. One thing that is pretty annoying about it is the lack of wi-fi. You have to plug it in with ethernet, or figure out how to install a USB dongle and make sure the drivers install correctly.
The P1P tool carriage I have inspected does it too. There is definitely more to the way these things are built than most people realize. Note that it is spring loaded and forced into the UP position. So if it bumps into anything on the build plate, the preloaded already has the bushing making contact to resist the load.
This makes me feel like I have to get an inferior A1 for multicolor A1 is good but this printer seems robust only time will tell I may be wrong . Multicolor option for this machine will annihilate bamboo
The PTFE is routed straight back, so it doesn't touch the frame. The cable near the spool is a fair point. It could use a few more zipties to get it to behave a little better
Creality really need to come up with Better numbering system V3, v3 Ke, V3 SE, etc is starting to get confusing lol
Can’t wait for the Ender 3 69420 KE
Ender 3 8K 5G AI SE PRO S
@@aeonjoey3d is that before or after the Ender 3 5k ABZ SE?
Is there any reason to buy this printer over a K1?
Because the K1 was on sale around BF for $350 and the V3KE is like $270
Hard to see how this printer will come in at less than $350 and more than $270.
It really doesn't leave much room price wise.
I am really curious what this model and the K1 And V3 KE will be selling for next BF.
Especially with new K series about to be released too.
This is a great time to wait it out
They Wil never drop the iconic ender 3 name
year: 2234
Ender 3 v7986 releases
CoreXYZBBQ with AI predictive printing. It prints what you'll want tomorrow, today!
Meh. I'm holding out for the Ender 3 v7988 SEx.
@@NathanBuildsRobots BBQ? They're printing fully prepared meals now, too? 👀
Dude! you are by far the best reviewer I have watched! Very good commentary and excellent on point review. thanks!
Overhang at 30 degrees is likely related to the overhang print speed for that angle being too high. At 20 degrees it's probably hit the next speed category and slowed down further, same with 15.
PrusaSlicer has Dynamic Overhang Speed settings so the speed can be varied for 0%, 25%, 50% and 75% overhangs.
@@Liberty4Ever Yes, exactly that sort of thing. I've never used CrealityPrint, but I'd be surprised if it wasn't doing something similar, and for whatever overhang range speed "bucket" setting that the 30° overhang fell into, it's likely the settings for that bracket group needs to be tweaked better.
What setting are you using? I just found this setting in creality print. I'm betting thats why I'm having issues with overhangs...
Man this Machine Whips around. Zippy is the best way to say it. Got the first 24 hours of printing on it done. Really impressed with quality of the prints at speed. You said it best @27:18 It's a Bedslinger K1 with some updates.
This looks like it's come out of a completely different factory to the KE. A much better factory.
What’s wrong with the KE ?
@@martinskamla6789 ALL.... the KE and SE also, has a flaw from fabric, that the right bed rod, it doesn't fit well and it dances, apart from that, the Z axis is the most inconsistent thing I've seen in a long time, the base plate itself bends...
@@JuanCarlos_3design Mine's a complete mess. the KE is getting sent back beds warped and nothing but issues.
Was fine for the first week but the bed started to warp assuming from the insulation design on the bottom
You are saying that because you have never tried this printer, this printer is piece of "something". I don't understand why so many good reviews about it when all of them know this thing is just wasting of money. KE is amazing printer, it's better option then this for way less money. This new V3 can't do good first layer, cooling fan is not good enough for harder prints, it's hard to load filament in it, you can't adjust zoffset manually until prints starts, you can't see auto leveling results at all to see how uneven your bed is.... I had SE, now i have KE and new V3, this last one is a huge fail, only good things about it are looks and nice screen.
@@bl4de938 I do own one so I feel qualified to comment on the build quality. And the V3 having all the flaws you list doesn't make the KE any better. Creality need to step up their QC or they will not survive.
This is a dope machine. I loved finding a few of the little surprises like the new boards and the AUX fan. Creality is stepping up in my opinion. This thing feels FRESH.
It even looks fresh :)
CREALITY NEEDED BAMBU LAB
(to start making decent 3d printers).
I feel like everyone has started making better printers after bambulab came in and shook the market like they did
Completely changed the direction the entire market was going, its not just Creality. Everyone is stepping their game up now which we will all benefit from.
What's going to be fun to watch is all the Bambu fan boys getting butt hurt when other companies start making better machines that are actually open source as they should be and not the stupid closed off walled garden proprietary ecosystem bs that Bambu has been getting away with.
@@dankcincy What you don't seem to have noticed is that they've been becoming more open source lately, and while I'm definitely not in favor of donut walling modifications to things ((coughcrapple)), it's not like their printers need masses of upgrades to work optimally either (also the first part of what you said was said immediately before you said it)
@@TS_Mind_Swept You're right, I haven't noticed. As soon as I saw it was a closed ecosystem, I never gave them a second look. I'll never buy anything in this space that's not opened up. Closed ecosystems go against everything 3D printing is about.
@@dankcincy well I can tell you one thing, you're more closed than they are, and not for any good reason
Also, tolerance test don't matter until after extensive dimensional accuracy validation
Thanks, nice video! Miss the original “first layer test” though! That was more telling than the repeated comment about the print bed cable! ;)
First layer was looking pretty good. I did one on a livestream
@@NathanBuildsRobotsI know, I was following it and saw you at 2:20:00 (timestamp) a bit confused with the result, which you attributed to changing the settings mid-print. By the way: Does the printer have "power loss recovery" or not (it didn't work in live)?
Hi Nathan, V3 and CR10SE are very similar at the price. V3 is a sturdy, smaller and faster printer than CR10SE. Is there any advantage of CR10SE over V3?
12:15 How come the bed belt is not parallel to the movement!? Isn't that causing issues?
The drive side of the belt is straight and parallel to the Y axis (side that is attached to the bed).
The return side of the belt is off-angle, but this doesnt matter. It could take an S-shaped return path. Some belts have idler tensioners that bend the belt back and forth on its way back to the drive pulley, but it doesn't actually make a difference.
@@NathanBuildsRobotsUnderstood, thanks, that makes perfect sense.
why? why are they sticking to the 220x220 bedsize?
breakout and up the standard, 275x275 would be a good intermediate size and make it worth upgrading to a new machine for some of us.
Looks like you're wanting to see the Plus model..... Just stay tuned ;)
I think creality should step up to 230x230. Their standard plate is already 235x235, they are only using the center 220x220 portion. But when you get that far out onto the edges you end up with pretty uneven heating.
Any idea if there will be one, this looks like a brilliant printer, just wish it was ~300mm^3
Any recommendations?
So many printers nowadays it's hard to choose
Nice video! Yeah it's been shown that Creality's nebula cam works out of the box which should mean k1 camera also works out of the box and also any random webcam should work if you get root and make some boot script changes
Hi Nathan! In your "wrap up" you sound exactly like myself. "I just got fed up with them", or something like that. I now have an E3V3KE, and I am super happy with it. At least for now, but I will look more at this E3V3. It has a shorter name anyway.😀
That's probably the best 15 minute benchy I've seen.
did you ever saw one from a x1c ?
NATHAN IS THEE SOURCE FOR NEW PRINTER INFORMATION! What a CHAD! 😂
I love your analytical approach to reviews. the new v3 promises well, but perhaps it was the right time to move on to another
Hi! For a non-beginner, but also non-professional hobby 3D home printing, which one would you recommend, this Ender 3 V3 3D CoreXY or the AnkerMake M5C maybe or Flashforge AD5M (mainly from the point of view of: print quality, supply of parts, PETG and TPU printing, self-designed objects that require more special slicing settings and filament change multicolor printing)?
anyone know what z hop settings are best for this machine? i imagine core XZ greatly reduces stringing
for the 20 degree overhangs it might be that the layers were a little more than 0.2mm apart making it seem better since the droop would be more consistent then if the premineter was barely touching the previous perimeter like on the 30 degree overhang but that just my theory
What is the storage capacity for files on that machine..? To compare my K1 Max has 8.0GB.
I think it should be the same onbaord storage. If you need more capacity you can plug in a USB drive
I've been waiting for a round 3d printer (round track) with a hotend that can tilt, so just about every surface can be a top surface and can be ironed (except the bottom surface, but that don't need to be ironed). You could also print perfect circles with it and make parts with no layer lines. I think it would greatly increase maneuverability and printability without having to add more axes (axis plural) and more motors. I think an excellent design could be done with 3 motors/axis. Could do X-Y and rotation with 2 motors and the tilt would be a 3rd, even though a 90 degree tilting motor would not normally be the same kind of motor. Also, the bed wouldn't have to move, so the footprint of the machine could be smaller than some others too.
That top rail running on a bushing .. and with a spring. Much like a inkjet printer. I have a large format inkjet, and it's important to keep a rail, that has a bushing running on it, clean and ever so slightly lubricated. Having it exposed like tbis may attract dust, and that bushing will bit be happy.
Interesting, I think precision on inkjets is more important than in 3D printing, so adopting a similar setup is a good idea
I hope creality does a multi material system of some sort. Would be interesting.
Some youtuber went to recent creality booth, the agent said, the going to release new multi filament/color printer, AND also multi color/filament for currently existing printer. Soon this year
That is precisely what I'm waiting for.
Once it's here, I'll buy a K1Max + multi-material thingy.
But, why are they taking so long ?
I asked them personally, they told me they were working on it with a release planned for 2024.
@@ZappyOhbecause it’s not easy to do. Prusa tried for years and failed. Bambu changed the 3d printing world with the AMS. Now they are all scurrying to catch up.
Being an owner of an AMS I hate the massive wastage involved and would much rather have an affordable and working well toolchanger system
Which filament did you used for the prints in the video? Creality hyper pla?
Thanks for another quality video appreciate your input
Are you sure you can't adjust the flow Nathan? It doesn't have the expert mode that Creality just pushed out on the K1 series. My k1 got an update a few weeks ago that now permits us to adjust the speed, flow, z height, and nozzle PID calibration. Mine is rooted so it had it before but it was nice that Creality added it to the stock software.
That's great, I am using the stock firmware that it shipped with, I think it should be getting the new firmware soon
10/10 roast on the strain relief.
Nathan only mentioned Bambu Lab by name in a positive light in this video. I think he's hoping Bambu starts sending him review printers. 😛 The burn on the sparking heater cables was by inference but most of us knew he was talking about the big bam boo.
@@Liberty4Everyou're not serious I assume? Watch again if you are..
Hi Nathan, sort of a broad question but if you could only have one printer, would you choose the K1 (not Max) or the Ender-3 V3 Plus? Love your detailed videos btw!
Just checked locally, the k1c and ender v3 are pretty close priced. Which one should I get? I have ender 3 pro and s1 pro.
imo K1C is much more capable. Ender 3 V3 is also nice but the K1C can do ABS and handle slightly higher print speeds making it a better option.
If you don't need the enclosure also take a look at the K1 SE, it's $360+ free shipping and discounts
i dont get why they keep using the bedslinger design for high speed printing? the input shaping will get problems when you have BIG prints on the bed. its a difference if you sling around a 300-400g bed empty or this bed plus 800g of a print.
A point would be the price ... but the core xy model is just 100 bux more (with an enclosure) than the bed slinger. so whats the point? and since it is no more build from aluminum extrusions the options for easy mods also are limited.
so i dont get it.
also if there is a big print on the bed at high speed the inertia will lead to other problems, since very most bed slinger beds are mounted in a way that there is flex. (if by springs, or the long rods and plates reaching to the corners.)
Really really good review. I am surprised seeing creality catching up or maybe even top the A1! But when can we get the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max review?
They made a really nice printer that is a total over kill finally. Only thing you mentioned is the fine tuning the heatsink hotend fan needs a thermostat and to tune the fan accordingly. Longer life spam for the fan and reduced noise. I want them to male a 2pro update ı really want a compact printer. With an over kill spec.
£359 for xz its expensive ı would really love the see a 2prov3 all of the weight saving and cable management for £250 would be a sweet spot.
Im looking fir bew printer and flashforge m5 for £299 is sweeter than the xz right now
can you do an short to follow up on this printer like a vid where you show it off after a month and how its printing?
Does the printer accept gcode from my laptop via serial communication?
Other than someone who does volume printing of files that z hop constantly or maybe a counter to crap lead screws causing artifacts, Core XZ really feels like the answer to a question nobody is asking. Maybe they got cost savings pulling things from their K1 motion system over here, they do like cost savings.
I thought the same thing before getting some hands on time with this machine. But visually, it's really clean, and well built.
CoreXZ vs I3 really doesnt matter as much as overall build quality and attention to detail. Maybe it's an unnecessary marketting fluff feature, but they pulled it off correctly at least.
Would you say the Sovol SV07 or Ender 3 V3 SE is better?
I sold my ender s1 and got out of fdm printing I will definitely be buying these whenever they run a sale at micro center
Thanks for sharing this review, liked the ease of operation since I am not the type to mod 3D Printers. 👍👍👍
I bought a BTT Manta M5P which I originally wanted to put in my Mingda Magican Pro. But I'm also kinda tempted to build a completely new printer instead. Any suggestions?
A bit bummed by the proprietary castings etc reducing modability compared to regular Ender 3s, but the fact that it's a core XZ is interesting- taking a page out of the Voron Switchwire/Enderwire mod notebook? With vanilla Klipper this actually looks like a pretty good package.
Very thorough as always. This is the first Creality printer to geab my attention in a while. Got one ordered. Curious about the nozzle situation - couldn't find replacements to order yet or a 0.6mm.
As a noob, I’m enjoying the Ender 3 v3. What it lacks in mods it makes up in ease of use. The side loading is a bit of a pain. I’ve had one spool get tangled, so I’d like to upgrade to a better spool holder or loading system. With it being new still, I’ve had to order the “unicorn” nozzle directly from Creality. Microcenter didn’t stock them. Still waiting on what the two empty screw holes at the top, are for.
I think they have a printable model to move the spool holder to the top
@@NathanBuildsRobots So the runoff sensor would need to be moved too then. Not a big deal, but it’s definitely a change. Thanks for the reply!
What prevents the gantry from falling down to the bed when the steppers are unpowered? Is it just the stepper detent torque and belt friction?
I think so. The toolhead is very light, which helps, then they have some springs on the Z axis linear rods that would absorb some of the energy if it were to come falling down somehow.
Kind of like landing gear
Great review and overview of this printer. I used to have the Ender 3 S1 and it was my "Workhorse" printer. This one looks to be similar, but with some significant differences too. Like you, I wish it had the ability to "MOD" some things, like I would like to see a light bar option, even if it were just the screw holes to add that feature by purchasing a light bar from the 3S1 or a similar sized model. What app did you use for sound testing? That one looked feature-rich and even if there was a fee it seemed like a good app to have.
Decibel X
I like it, I paid for the pro version
Finally! A properly QA'd and tested product from Creality that will print out of the box without having to "mod" it first. They're finally catching on after watching Bambu eat their lunch.
What would you buy the M5C or this one. Or the anycubic Kobra 2 plus.
Would you say this is better, worse, or equal to the cr 10 se?
I just got a ender 3 v3 and noticed the gantry isn't level. Do you know how to level the X gantry on this model? I'm lost with all the belts
This is very interesting. Creality should make a cheap AMS to really compete with the A1
Awesome review 👍, would you recommend the KE over this core xz? Thanks for sharing ❤
This one has better part cooling and a stiffer frame... This one should perform a bit better overall.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks appreciated
I'm surprised that Voron was not mentioned once. I think that for both of these printers they borrowed a lot of design decisions from Voron. Also the switchwire was kind of designed to be able to convert an existing bed slinger instead of making it from scratch. A nice side effect of it being core XZ is that Z hopping is very fast and it can prevent stringing and oozing by not taking too long to lift. During the spike test it is not hopping though.
Thank you for this review! I have a question, does this also let you change the speed on the display during printing? The K1 has that option when clicking the speed on the display that lets you use ultrafast normal slow and silent.
Hello in CURA SLICER wich is the best option in the models list to fit this printer_?
I was too impatient and brought the KE thinking it would be great anyway, well it is but mine took a bit to get to print, it was 2mm out from opposing corners, I levelled the X axis and now it is 1mm front to back out and does print very well, I would be much happier if it was more level but in my stubbornness I brought it as an out of the box good print printer so I refuse to mod it,,, for now anyway.
I will end up with the V3 after it is available in Au, it looks much better and I believe it will be in most ways. I still have the S1 pro, I have found it to be so reliable and consistent. The K1 max has also been great, consistent & reliable
That's a Die Cast Aluminum base? Looks like stamped sheet metal to me. I think Die Cast would be thicker and heavier, but I think aluminum can be die casted pretty thin. Not sur of how thin though.
The 20 and 30 degree overhangs are probably due to the angles getting different airflow
What are the experiences after two months of use with the first layer at normal (CrealityPrint) recommended speeds? Simple question - simple answer if possible. Thank you.
Im confused so the regular e3 v3 is better than the e3 v3 KE? If the KE is also like a K1 what is the difference? The structure material or design? Can someone explain the trim level of the e3 v3 for me? Like in cars.
E3V3KE is like an original E3 that has been vastly improved with mods. E3V3 is brand new from the ground up. The most fundamental difference being core xz on the E3V3 and z axis leadscrews on the KE. And other less significant improvements elsewhere.
I’m kind of trying to decide between these models myself. I’m not convinced that core xz is better.
@@andrewmiller6051 thanks for this bro, me too looking around for my 2nd 3d printer, i google some more and for me CoreXZ is not really worth it for the price compare with the KE. maybe a V2 of CoreXZ then i will go with that. but for now im going with the KE. and i can also do 100 flow rate if i change the nozzle too :)
What did you end up with?
@Nathan...how would you compare this to the new V3 to the K1 if price was equal? Torn between the two.
Think this is the best bang for the $ first 3d Printer or a Bambu?
you miss telling us what fillament you use is it hyper pla,abs. or fishing line ?
Creality Hyper PLA. I use it because it's what creality reccomends and having used it on multiple printers, it shows defects pretty well for testing.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks and your on m top 3 youtubers hint Chris,you,sos :)
The load cell sensor is gone?
I'm a relative newbie to the 3DP world, and I think I'm missing something about this "Core XZ" thing. This seems just the same as the previous Ender 3's. That is, the bed goes back and forward (X axis), the print head goes side to side (Y axis) and vertically (up/down the gantry - the Z axis). So how is it different? Can someone explain please? (Googling for an answer did not help by the way). Perhaps I'm misunderstanding the whole concept.
Basically the X and Z are driven by 2 identical but mirrored belt loops. On most normal Ender 3s the X is driven by 1 simple belt loop for X, and 1 leadscrew for Z.
It's kind of a technical difference that doesn't actually mean a whole lot to the end user, but it is an interesting design configuration.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks. No wonder I couldn't figure it out. I will definitely file that information under 'Stuff I don't need to know'. 😉
Just another creality gimmick...
Is it possible to mount the roll holder somewhere else? Im asking cuz the area i have is cramped and the roll would get in the way
how about loading and unloading filaments? is it done automatically or painful as it was before?
Any news on a fan mod? I’ve been seeing some people noticing the idle noise levels can be quite loud aswell as when leveling etc.
Youre reviews are the best! Thanks for the video!
@Nathan Builds Robots
I was about to purchase the printer on the German store. It doesn't exist there though. I next tried EU store, it says it's already sold out.. the US still works. When will it be available on the German store - or more generally on the EU store?
Now that's how you make an entrance. Please make the hair-flip intro your siganture move from here on.
How do you like that bed adhesive?
It's very nice
28:45 another subtle Bambu grilling, i like hearing such things
The Bambu is self-grilling. 😆
I would love to see some detailed prints with the input shaping on. Maybe thats is my chance to get Into fdm terrain for my hobbies.
Is the hotend on this the same as the K1C? I think I saw that it was different to the original K1
What did you apply in the build plate? Some liquid adhesive?
CoreXZ is not a terrible idea from a manufacturing standpoint. With CoreXZ you get:
- reduced BOM (sourcing straight z-screws is a pain)
- one less dust collecting and grease spreading surface, always full of lubricant
- dual motor X
- dual motor Z
- eliminate all the issues related to the Z-woble and single Z-screw beam sagging
- smaller footprint and frame dimensions, much slicker and denser design as a result
You get all of this with only 2 motors and a pile of bearings. It's a splendid bedslinger synergy.
It comes with a price of a much higher frame geometry and rigidity requirements. But those qualities are a __must__ in any modern competitive device.
Thanks to LH-Stinger, in a year Aliexpress would be full of lightweight carbon-fiber-bed mods for it. It would put it in an even better speed place. Slanted frame beams same as V3 plus model wouldn't hurt too.
But for use at home, from standpoints of noise, air quality and layer adhesion, current market fully enclosed cubic printers are unreachable. For $400 qidiq1pro or k1 are a absolute no-brainers for me, V3 is just a waste of money.
I think in your print you need to reduce nozzle temp a little bit so the bridge is better and the stringing doesn't happen. great video overall.
I'm in Canada and don't have access to the ender 3 v3 yet, should I wait or get the KE
In Canada it sounds like it will be near 600$....... KE is way cheaper. BUT! it has major wobbling. Fixable? probably.
I have the V3 KE. The frame is too weak for the speed of the printer. Get the V3 CoreXZ
Yeah I agree. The frame was optimized for the V3 SE, then they turbocharged it for the KE and it just isn't stiff enough to maintain print quality at high speeds. If you turn the speeds down it's fine, like 2x SE speeds. Problem is they set the stock profiles to run at like 4x the SE speeds.
has a A1 actually caught fire yet? I know the cords could lead to fire but your wording made it sound like that actually happened with Bambu. Which I can't remember happening since the Anet A8 days.
Great to see this improvement. Without the competition of bambu lab, creality would continue building slight updates of the OG ender I think
I miss the link and name of the print surface Glue!
Please add the link.
Will add to the description now
Looks like a great 3d printer for small print farm!
Creality print software looks amazing for farm use. You can view all your printers and send out jobs straight from the slicer.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I would prefer to have Orcaslicer and real Klipper like my rooted KE, but for a print farm yeah the 3 V3 no suffix with Creality Print is a really good start
thanks for the extensive first look !
If I could buy the Ender-3 V2 for $150 USD ($200 CND), should I do it? I know a store that has a bunch in their warehouse. Creality website doesn't have the V2 anymore. I've been using the original Ender-3 Pro for five years now and really happy with it. I have no idea what to upgrade to.
Personally, I’d opt for the v3 SE for $50 more
The direct drive extruder and auto bed leveling is certainly worth that if the MSRP is similar to the US pricing of $199
good friend of mine was getting no bed adhesion at all. turns out the paper tissues (flue season) he got as a gift from the pharmacy contained camomile oil. lol
Can you do fan mods on v3 se 😊❤
I'll wait for a version 2 of this very printer but I think this and the the K1(to a lesser degree) are steps towards Creality redeeming themselves. I know everyone and their mom has Enders...but I can't tell u how many times I hear those same people compalin about those old printers when I'm strolling through a Microcenter. I actively blocked a salesman from showing a mom a Neo(she was complaining about bed adhesion on a v2 she had) when there was the new KE and SE's right behind them.
I bit the bullet and got this machine on sale at MicroCenter. Under 300 is a good deal for the features u get. I paid more than that to upgrade an old printer. I don’t need the plus model. I use this just like any other Klipper machine I use. However, Creality’s own UI is unimpressive.
Could this lead to consumer choice overload? So many printers coming from creality recently. If it was me starting now, I wouldn't know which one to pick
Simple, stay away from creality. That's always been the policy here.
Creality has always been releasing a bunch of printers, then never retiring them. You can *still* buy the original Ender 3 if you really want to.
As far as what to pick: Pick the K1 or Ender 3 V3 from this video. Don't bother at all with their older printers.
I think that Creality should make a ender 3 that has the performance of the v3 but the modality of the original ender 3
Nathan is the CHAD for 3D Printing. Can't wait for Nathan to actually Builds Robots because I love Robots Making. Btw, i Just watch your livestream 4 hours before now i got this video. yay
Also worth noting they have put the spool holder in the correct place this time.
Under the printer?
The *CORRECT* location for the spool holder is mounted to the wall above the printer... and NO reverse Bowden tube. 😛
Agree. If a spool holder is gonna be attached to the machine, keep it off the gantry.
It would be nice if the spool holder rotated for valuable farm space
On my ender 3 I made my own holders. The one that hung out to the left was actually more popular than the one that faces backwards, but both from the base.@@kshepherd2005
What would you think is a better purchase? This or Elegoo Neptune 4
forget the Neptune 4 its a mess and rushed printer
@@Dr3dMNR you think so? I saw a video about Nathan saying it's a good printer.
I liked my Neptune 4. It printed well. One thing that is pretty annoying about it is the lack of wi-fi. You have to plug it in with ethernet, or figure out how to install a USB dongle and make sure the drivers install correctly.
If you had to choose between the Ender 3 V3 and K1 at the same price, which would you choose?
9:56 I love that you point this out, such a fascinating design decision.
The P1P tool carriage I have inspected does it too. There is definitely more to the way these things are built than most people realize.
Note that it is spring loaded and forced into the UP position. So if it bumps into anything on the build plate, the preloaded already has the bushing making contact to resist the load.
How long did it take to print the torture toaster?
about 5 hrs
This makes me feel like I have to get an inferior A1 for multicolor A1 is good but this printer seems robust only time will tell I may be wrong . Multicolor option for this machine will annihilate bamboo
So, bambu A1 its nothing special but this is...
It has a very special cable for its heated bed!
I sure as heck do not like that cable running up against the spool or the PTFE tube tubing against the top frame
The PTFE is routed straight back, so it doesn't touch the frame. The cable near the spool is a fair point. It could use a few more zipties to get it to behave a little better
Nathan, as the definitive source for 3D printing news. I'm gonna need to know when that bigger bambu is coming.