@@kern417my friend it took out white smoke on the 440i was checked everywhere everything the cooler fridge was empty but nowhere leaked .what should i do now? Can the fumes valve be the problem?
One time I ran the oil in accordance to their 10,000 mile change...I opened the drain and I got 0w-00. Must be an eco friendly option because there was nothing to dispose! Super cool
Liqui Moly Special Tec B FE SAE 0W-30 is also one of the few Mb 229.6 spec oils around. So, if your Mercedes calls for 229.5 or 229.6, you might consider switching to this Liqui Moly. The 229.6 seems to be rated for better fuel economy and better resistance to oxidative thickening.
I stumbled upon your channel 2 days ago since buying my first ever 'BMW engine powered' car--Ineos Grenadier, that has a B58 engine. Your presentation is clear and concise, I feel it doesn't waste anytime in delivering essential information to your viewers. Thank you for your excellent work.
Just ordered two 5Ls of LiquiMoly 0W-30 Special Tec B FE for my 440. Going to do regular oil changes with this oil! Thank you for helping the B58 community.
@@SomethingSomething1337Do you stay in colder climate location ? I get my 5w-30 liquimolly change kit for my 440i from fcp euro . I stay in warmer location.
great vid. I immediately checked the statement from my last service at BMW - was actually surprised to see they put the 0W30 oil as they have been terrible in other ways
That’s the exact 0W-30 Liqui-Moly Special Tec oil I source from FCP Euro for my 2011 6AT E90 335i with only 52800 miles on the odometer to date, which is currently March 12, 2024. As prone as BMW engines are to spinning rod bearings, one better use thinner viscosity oils to get adequate lubrication asap.
I live in Florida so my temperature is about 50 at the coldest and 100 on a hot summer day. I just recently went full frame turbo and swapped oil from 0w 30 to 5w 40. Never heard of those LL specs I’ll start looking into that when I buy oil!
OG 340i B58 owner here. Car was manufactured at the end of 2015, lives in -45 DegC in winter to +35 DegC in the summer, is my only car(daily driven in all conditions) and has only had BMW oil serviced by the dealership at the recommended intervals. I have nothing negative to report as of now. Oh it's tuned on MHD 2.5, high flow cat, pod air filter, dual resonator delete for about 6yrs now.
Thinner oils do equal more power to the ground but at the cost of Oil shear and load hand capacities. I did oil lab testing to know what my engine wants. On my n20 I added a block heater for cold start protection and did testing with it on /off and with different oils. The heater did reduce the need for 0w oils but with out the heater on 0w40 showed the least amount of wear in the lab results with 5w30 as a baseline. Overall the engine lasted long as I needed it too sold the car running with 200k on it. (180k was on stage 2 boot mod.)
The condensation is because of the car running rich during cold start and the catalytic converter doing it's job. Having fuel blended with ethanol doesn't help the condition. My VW had the mocha-froth colored junk on the oil dipstick and inside the tube - it was caused by a "bad" pcv valve. After changing that valve, the engine stopped sweating as much oil and the mocha-froth went away.
the condensation is because water is a natural product of combustion. everything in the combustion chamber will go into the crankcase and vent through the PCV. if the engine doesn't get warm enough for long enough then the water will not evaporate and will mix with the oil. it's normal on any engine regardless of manufacturer if it's mostly used for short trips and doesn't get up to temp for extended periods.
But kern! "Moar thick moar better" lol. This is such a hard point to drive home. Running the proper oil for the bearing/ lubrication surfaces is key. Also did an oil analysis on beating some Quaker State ultimate synthetic 5w-30 for a summer with a few trips to the strip, tons of Spirited driving, and lots of daily driving. 7200 miles looked fantastic.
@@mxthor3im picking up my 540 soon and I plan on sending blackstone test every oil change 😂 I might be doing too much but 30 extra dollars for safety sounds ok to me
Finally! Exactly my view on the topic. I have been somewhat critical about some of your videos kern417, but this one is 100%! BMW have been putting 0W30 in my car since new and I continued with the same, exactly due to the considerations mentioned in your video. The only thing I would add (which you have discussed in other videos) is that the B58 is a modern engine designed for W30 and even W20! Just because people are used to W40 on older vehicles does not make W30 "too thin" (I am also continuing to use 0W40 in my older generation Audi and that's optimal for it!)! In addition, tuning has very little to do with it all, unless it involved substantial engine hardware changes.
Well - your power ie 30vs40 and fuel economy isn't your concern while on the track. The beating and turbo protection is. High temp operation lowers viscosity to below the high spec so 30 isn't 30 on track. After running the track change your oil. Good Luck.....
Clearly there is a ton of people running all variating weights between 0-20 and 5-40, in different climates. I have yet to see anybody having issues using any specific weight. I live in ny (5*-100*F) and have been using LM 5w40 for the last 50k miles year round in my gen 1 and when I had my valve cover off recently the engine looked perfect. As long as you’re getting the correct specifications I don’t think it’s as big of a deal as people make it seem. One guy swears on one weight, another swears by something else. I do think I will run 0w30 in the winter from now on just for the sake of getting the oil up to operating temp on my short trips to work and such. Unfortunately I just did another change with 5w40 100mi ago and usually do a change every 3-3500mi max so maybe that has something to do with it. Just my experience, good video and info as always though.👍🏻
The 0 weight BMW specifies has less to do with climate and more to do with tolerances and very narrow oil passages. You may not be having issues now but those cold starts will start catching up.
@@AMExileEngineer here - this is total nonsense. The winter SAE J300 rating of an oil has nothing to do with “tolerances” or narrow passages. The winter rating is assigned by the lowest temperature at which the oil is pumpable on a cold cranking simulator. A 0W oil is pumpable at -35C, 5W -30C, 10W -25C. It says nothing about viscosity, in fact. Mobil 1 0W-40 is thicker in cold temps than every 5W-20 in existence except as you near -30 when the 5W forms crystals and gels because of the quality of the base oil. A 0W-20, 5W-20, or even 10W-20 is typically 20-40 cSt thinner than a 0W-40 at 40 C also despite being 0W. So you see, the winter rating has only a loose association with the viscosity of the oil. Second, it’s clearances not tolerances and this too narrow BS is urban legend. A 0W-20 at 100 F is thicker than a 10W-60 at operating temperature. If engines were this tight they would be blowing up in Canada daily. Kinematic viscosity is a rising exponential function with decreasing temperature.
@@chrisbradley3224 - A civil engineer over here. In Belgium we use Shell Helix Ultra 0w30 year round. The temperature can go from -10 Celcius to 35 Celcius during summer. The 0w30 is what the dealers use btw. We very rarely change our oil at home. My car is X5 F15 3.0 diesel, 85 000 km, the service is every +- 18 000 km.
Ok. Manufacturers want the engine to run perfectly in warranty AND have the best possible emissions/ fuel consumption. Having a b engine that's pushed hardware and software wise with a low HTHS oil will eat away at the lds coat on the bores and the cams :) Changing it more often and looking at formulations to avoid LSPI, ring land deposits and an hths around 3.7 3.9 would be damn great.
Another tired topic…I just use the OW-30 BMW OEM oil on my 700 hp gen 2…drives perfect. The key is to do oil changes more often than what BMW instructs
What about what the upgraded turbos recommend? They usually always recommend higher viscosity to protect the turbos . If people are really concerned about their oil send it in for oil analysis every oil change and see which brand works best .
The oil clearance and operating temperature determines the minimum oil viscosity to use. These cars are using much tighter clearances and the upside is that tighter clearances give a wider oil wedge to distribute the loads. The challenge is having a straight crank and good oil temp management. Also, if power is increased the oil thickness needs to follow. So a 0w30 at stock power levels and RPM will not suffice with an increase in HP and avg temps. F1 cars run 10w60 oil and operate at 280C and higher. They have tight clearances and somewhat a high HP output. The oil has to be preheated though, being that thick and with tolerances so tight. The HTHS rating is one of the most critical to watch when selecting an oil. I'd need a rating of at least 3.7 for modified turbo engine to be comfortable. So 0w30 might work at stock levels and short OCI, but as you add power you better beef up that oil wedge! I'd rather run 0w40 and get away with it than run 0W30 and worry between oil changes!
Can you cite clearances that you are referring to. Because best I know, they have remained largely the same for the past couple of decades. People interchange tolerances with clearances, but they are not the same. Individual parts tolerances are smaller, still those parts are then paired and assembled to achieve the same clearances.
@@mrtopcat2 No, they have not remained the same. The clearances are tighter because that allows them to use a thinner oil and achieve more fuel economy. Tolerances are even tighter. For example there is machine tolerance of the part and bearing/journal tolerance in the clearance. For example you may see a 1.0 thou clearance with a +/- 0.3 tho tolerance. Honda K20A for example required 5W40 oil, but the newer K20C for example uses 0w20 oil... Do you think those engines are running the same clearances? nope. K20C is 0.78 thou to 1.5 thou K20A (old) is 1.3 to 2.4 thou. Hence the K20C uses 0w20 oil..
@@automotivelove The conclusion that tighter tolerances will result in tighter clearances is much repeated and echoed everywhere. Regardless it remains a fallacy. Parts are still paired to achieve largely the same clearances as before. Although there are instances of higher clearances used for specific applications, generally clearances have remained the same. You can check any older engine's repair manual and compare with newer engines. It is the same values.
@@automotivelove You are mixing up parts manufacturing tolerances with clearance ranges (which you are apparently assuming to be the tolerances, they are NOT). Tighter parts tolerances means there are simply less parts groups to pair and assembly is simpler. Thinner oils are ONLY about fuel economy and NOT following your assumption to match supposedly tighter clearances. Forget all that! It is wrong regardless how many times it will be echoed and repeated. By the way, if your assumptions were correct, then modern engines would be harmed by thicker oils - but they are NOT. Just like they are not harmed by being used in colder temperatures, during warmup, where oils are even thicker.
That's not how it works. Shell has been the exclusive BMW oil manufacturer for years. And yes - it is a rebranded Shell oil developed specifically to BMW's specs. So what's your point? Not buy it just because it is rebranded, although it is exactly what it needs to be?
@@Y.D.43210Nice way to be wrong. It depends on where and when. In the US it used to be Castrol, it was the Castrol Edge product. In other parts of the world, its other manufacturers. Its a cheque book buy, not based on pure engineering. Any decent oil will do exactly the same job. Changing it frequently is far more important than which one. Thus, buying rebadged BMW super special, is 263 times better magic oil.....is a waste of money.
0w-40 Mannol Synthetic L-04 works well all year round in UK climate on the BMW M47R Diesel used in my Rover. Week in week out returns in mixed light urban use. 50 MPG in UK Imperial Gallons which is 42 MPG in US Gallons About 4 MPG heavier in winter.
The The BMW 0W30 Twin Turbo oil? I am using the same. It is a Shell oil though, so next time likely to buy directly the Shell product, depending on price ;)
I have a 2023 MKV Supra 6MT with 4,800 miles getting ready for it's 2nd oil change. My first oil change at 1,100 miles was with Amsoil. How would you guys compare Liqui Moly or Motul versus Amsoil?
uszlachetniacze.blogspot.com/2018/10/piotr-tester-zestawienie-wszystkie.html?m=1 This is how I formulated my decision, X-Cess Gen 2 sits in that sweet spot between good cold protection and hot protection when comparing to LM equivalents. You can see that Group 5 ester oils have the best protection but would need more frequent changes, all depends one the use.
Try to find the green bottle of liqui moly 0w-30 it does some crazy things for increasing gas mileage, I was already getting 32 mpg when I’m just cruising at 60-70 on the highway. But the green bottle took me to 34-35 mpg. Wild.
Bro can you do a video on the new b58 electric vanos system. Seems very interesting in how it works and how to do the valve timing. Great content as always
I switch from long life 04 5w30 to long life 12fe liqui moly 0w30 for my little 3cy B38 and my engine works way smoother especially on cold star and start and stop fuction
So I actually talked to some reputable Euro shop owners down here in South Florida when I bought my 340 because the dealership had put 5-20 in my car and I did my next oil change to 0w-20 and they said Do not do that because you will seize your motor. Never go lower in viscosity ever, for these BMW's just keep it at 5-30 if youre going for more power and call it a day, but never go lower in viscosity after going up. Just what I was told though, not sure of the science or validity behind it.
Tbh, I think the BMW oil cooling system is pretty stout. On the F87 N55 M2, it was pretty dumb good. Would basically always be between 100 and 120 Celsius, regardless of how driven. Only if pushed EXTREMELY hard on track with repeated heavy and prolonged accelerations, it would begin to heat soak and also the oil temps would rise to 125 Celsius, but that's not so bad and impressive for a totally stock car (no tune, downpipe, nothing). Ambient air temps definitely affect operating oil temps, especially when driven hard on track. For the N55, 0W30, 5W30, and 5W40 are the recommended oils. They're all fine, but 5W40 is definitely preferred if you are a highly competent driver (top group) on track. As an aside, manufacturers are willing to sacrifice longterm reliability/protection for 2-4% improvement in efficiency. I think Toyota even has a 0W8 oil. Ultimately main and rod bearing clearances are what should dictate oil viscosity, NOT fuel economy. When in doubt, I'd er to the highest recommended oil grade in moderate/hot climates and the lowest grade in cold/winter climates.
In regards to 15:58 I hear that beating the engine up from the get go (6port b58) seats the rings better and prevents this issue… spooky stuff if you ask me but if it’s proven I would do it.
Alright so I am at 155.5k miles. Stock. I do uber in a 440i GC xdrive. I haven't ever played around with wieghts of oil. I DO MY OWN OIL CHANGES AT 10K MILES. The most I've ever had to push the change was at 12k once. My car stays on 12 to 14 hours a day. I use 0w20 molygen. Color of the oil is always dark brown and clear. I have to inspect as best as i can. Max gas mileage I get of one tank is 460 miles. I'm usually at 375 to 400 depending on how I just drove before getting to the gas station. Lol I'm doing to play around and change to this and report results. If I get better gas mileage or feel that the engine is happier will report back asap
I would also use 0W30 - based on my feeling. BUT I believe almost nobody can evaluate or estimate which is the best oil viscosity for these B58, there are no measurements or facts available to use for such evaluation. It’s all pure feeling
0w30 on OE BMW oil had 2 options now, both of them FE12- one is normal bmw 0w30 and the other one is bmw 0w30M , is the M version better tho ?
7 месяцев назад+1
Hello, thank you for the informative video. But there is one thing I don't understand. Why not use 0-40 instead of 0-30? 0-40 has same cold temp protection as 0-30 but has better high temp protection..
@@kern41710:38 You compare 0-20 to 0-30 here, and say 0-30 is better. Okay, but why don't you consider 0-40 instead of 0-30? 0-40 should be superior to 0-30 in terms of hot viscosity while both having the same cold viscocity.
@ Plus the fact that the B58 has been engineered with W30 and even W20 in mind... It CAN handle W40, but it does not NEED W40. Hence why W30 is the golden middle between W20 (focus on fuel efficiency) and W40 (overkill for a modern engine + reduced efficiency). If you do not have cold winters where you are, I would consider 5W30 as potentially the best viscosity choice for B58. But I occasionally do. Plus all the other considerations kern417 mentioned, incl short distance trips. Been using 0W30 from the first oil change.
I feel seen. Mostly very short trips and I know it’s bad. Couple times a week I go for extended drives. You think 0W is better than 5W for me because of this? I park in a heated garage, so no real cold starts.
If you’re running E85 you are shearing the oil down to a lower viscosity much more quickly from a 30 viscosity when operating at all temperatures … again just another thing to take into account and should definitely lower your oil change intervals
The engine oil temperature is an overall indicator of oil temp and not the oil temp under heavy load at specific areas of the engine such as turbos and pistons. Your oil temperature could be normal after it gets cooled and reaches the oil temp sensor, but under heavy load, it could have reached significantly higher temperatures near the pistons and turbos. Thats why people use a heavier oil to protect the hottest areas of the engine under heavy load. Is my understanding correct?
The two different measurement standards always confused me. It never made sense to me to be more viscous when hot. Then i found it was measured differently but didnt know exactly how.
i think each test is developed to better represent the highest risk scenarios for each condition. SAE always updates things periodically, so technically it could change in the future too.
I have a 2924 with a b48 2.0. I daily drive it, no track, but I drive very spirited. I need the absolute best oil for street / performance. My change intervals are 3 to 4 thousand miles max, also I livevin a hot climate miami Florida. Any recommendations?
Excuse me but your engine is now in danger. You need at least 3.5 CST for HTHS for the torque and power you get from the B58. Factory specs for FE, cold starts up and emissions regulations is what are for, but you don't have protection at high temps and top performance unless you make a short oil service or don't floor it. Good thing is you have a high TBN that compensates the ultra low viscosity. Including it's a turbocharged GDI engine although it has as well port injection. BimmerN53
6:39 no need to overpay twice for oil with bmw logo. LL spec means means literally nothing in USA, its only for clueless green freaks in EU. Also taking oil rated 30 instead of 40 is a mistake: 40 graded oil has better oil film handle capability. Not to say about 20: this is not naturally aspirated japan junk engine, it requires good oil film to remain in crank shaft bearings while engine is off.
like i said in the video it adjust based on driving style. i drive my car harder than BMW anticipated, so the timer drops lower than the baseline recommendation.
My B58 TU (2023 M240i) requires LL-12 FE or LL-17 FE+. Would I be safe using the recommeneded LiquiMoly 0w30 if it does not meet those exact certifications?
I literally just bought liqui moly 5w30 yesterday ahaha I would have gone 0w30 but only 5w30 was available on FCP. But Im in the south so it never gets colder than 30.
I have a 330i and have been using 0w 20 because I thought that’s all I could use. Which oil would you recommend? It’s a b48 with 60k miles. I live in phx az so it gets hot
2022 m240 xdrive oil capacity??????????? 6.5 liters or 7.2liters? Forums, owners manual and I called 2 different dealerships one said 6.5 liters and the other said 7.2. I can’t get a solid answer.
No one answered to my question so I when to 3 dealerships got the service department and parts department to print out the technical specs of my car with my vin with the oil capacity. It is 7.2 liters because it is xdrive if it was rwd it would be 6.5
have you noticed any drop in mpg in your 340i? Had my 440i going on 6 years, motorway cruising at 80 ish would get me over 40mpg regulary. Now i'll get 36 at the most. Thought it was the oil and changed from 0w to 5w and back to 0w. Made no difference. Can we expect these B58's to get less economical over time?
I would likely blame the fuel quality, even if you get it at the same place every time, the quality can change if they start getting their gas from a different supplier. I live in MD and on longer trips I will usually get around 31-33mpg in my 240i, last month I was in VA for a few days and after filling up down there, I was getting 35-36mpg driving back.
@@kern417 but whats weird I tried to look for 0w30 ll01 i cannot find in europe I typed the same oil as you have they dont sell here… I will ask bmw .. i also thought about going 0w30 as this winter just like you said car took forever to warm up,, i thought its because i removed flaps in the front grill , on g30 its opening closing in certain engine temp.. i thought it’s because off that but maybe the oil… I hope i didn’t caused damage using ll04
Just found your channel, love it! Bought a 2021 M340i a week ago and looking at oil options I live in Phoenix Arizona, doesn’t hit freezing temps here and hits 115 degF in the summer. Car is my daily and I drive 12 miles to work. Half in traffic. Car is 100% stock and I’m gonna keep it that way. What you recommend? Was originally thinking 5w-30, instead of the 0w-30 because it doesn’t get to cold here.
@@F5alconsHouse how do such unintelligent people afford B58 cars? You take your expensive BMW just to have Indy put their bullshit generic 0w20 in it 😂
What if i live in hot environment? I thought the upper temperature grade was in relation to the ambient temperature. I live in a hot area where ambient temperature can reach 38 °C, should i steel run 0w30?
5w30 or 5w40 in warmer climates. I’m in Florida so 5w30 is perfect down here. If I lived in my old state of Michigan I would run 0w30, based off the manual’s instructions.
What is hotter? Your 200F engine or your 100F Florida summer? Your thermostat opens to keep the engine at a constant temp. Does your radiator work harder in summer? Sure. Does it affect your engine temps? Nope!
In a way a 0w40 oil seems like an ideal solution for someone who commutes in winter but sees high oil temps on track in summer. As you said, it might be better to upgrade your cooling if you see higher temps, but for occasional summer track use with a stock car 0w40 might be a good solution? I dont know if there are 0w40 oils with LL approval tho.
How to Get a FREE Oil Change: ruclips.net/video/jWrGkVmrPBk/видео.html
That camera zoom gonna go so close we're about to see this mans soul...
Just you wait 🥰
Lmfao ngl im probably gonna sub just because of this interaction & the zoom at the beginning 😂😂
@@kern417my friend it took out white smoke on the 440i was checked everywhere everything the cooler fridge was empty but nowhere leaked .what should i do now? Can the fumes valve be the problem?
One time I ran the oil in accordance to their 10,000 mile change...I opened the drain and I got 0w-00. Must be an eco friendly option because there was nothing to dispose! Super cool
Brother 😂😂😂
💀🤣
Liqui Moly Special Tec B FE SAE 0W-30 is also one of the few Mb 229.6 spec oils around. So, if your Mercedes calls for 229.5 or 229.6, you might consider switching to this Liqui Moly. The 229.6 seems to be rated for better fuel economy and better resistance to oxidative thickening.
I stumbled upon your channel 2 days ago since buying my first ever 'BMW engine powered' car--Ineos Grenadier, that has a B58 engine. Your presentation is clear and concise, I feel it doesn't waste anytime in delivering essential information to your viewers. Thank you for your excellent work.
I am in AZ and the shop here installed 5w-30 for my B58. I was kind of worried at first, but cold temps are not an issue here.
Facts I'm in florida 5w-30 is good for me
Just ordered two 5Ls of LiquiMoly 0W-30 Special Tec B FE for my 440. Going to do regular oil changes with this oil! Thank you for helping the B58 community.
Where you get your liquimoly?
@@chris3774Check FCPEuro
yes, i can’t find an oil change kit for my b58 with the Liqui Moly 0w30! 😔
@@SomethingSomething1337Do you stay in colder climate location ? I get my 5w-30 liquimolly change kit for my 440i from fcp euro . I stay in warmer location.
@@ciabatta7538 north texas, hot as hell but i want to stay within spec as much as possible, fully stock car too
great vid. I immediately checked the statement from my last service at BMW - was actually surprised to see they put the 0W30 oil as they have been terrible in other ways
i switched to 0w-30 too, but i use the Ravenol VSW 0w-30. Best datasheet on the market with BMW approval, can definitely recommend !
Gave me the confidence to experiment with different oils. Thanks for the great overview!
That’s the exact 0W-30 Liqui-Moly Special Tec oil I source from FCP Euro for my 2011 6AT E90 335i with only 52800 miles on the odometer to date, which is currently March 12, 2024.
As prone as BMW engines are to spinning rod bearings, one better use thinner viscosity oils to get adequate lubrication asap.
I live in Florida so my temperature is about 50 at the coldest and 100 on a hot summer day. I just recently went full frame turbo and swapped oil from 0w 30 to 5w 40. Never heard of those LL specs I’ll start looking into that when I buy oil!
The intro zoom in kills me 😂 Great vid as always Kern
OG 340i B58 owner here. Car was manufactured at the end of 2015, lives in -45 DegC in winter to +35 DegC in the summer, is my only car(daily driven in all conditions) and has only had BMW oil serviced by the dealership at the recommended intervals.
I have nothing negative to report as of now.
Oh it's tuned on MHD 2.5, high flow cat, pod air filter, dual resonator delete for about 6yrs now.
How many miles?
Thinner oils do equal more power to the ground but at the cost of Oil shear and load hand capacities. I did oil lab testing to know what my engine wants. On my n20 I added a block heater for cold start protection and did testing with it on /off and with different oils. The heater did reduce the need for 0w oils but with out the heater on 0w40 showed the least amount of wear in the lab results with 5w30 as a baseline. Overall the engine lasted long as I needed it too sold the car running with 200k on it. (180k was on stage 2 boot mod.)
The condensation is because of the car running rich during cold start and the catalytic converter doing it's job. Having fuel blended with ethanol doesn't help the condition. My VW had the mocha-froth colored junk on the oil dipstick and inside the tube - it was caused by a "bad" pcv valve. After changing that valve, the engine stopped sweating as much oil and the mocha-froth went away.
the condensation is because water is a natural product of combustion. everything in the combustion chamber will go into the crankcase and vent through the PCV. if the engine doesn't get warm enough for long enough then the water will not evaporate and will mix with the oil. it's normal on any engine regardless of manufacturer if it's mostly used for short trips and doesn't get up to temp for extended periods.
bruh i think you might be in my brain - anytime i have a question about something you seem to make a video on it a week later
But kern! "Moar thick moar better" lol. This is such a hard point to drive home. Running the proper oil for the bearing/ lubrication surfaces is key. Also did an oil analysis on beating some Quaker State ultimate synthetic 5w-30 for a summer with a few trips to the strip, tons of Spirited driving, and lots of daily driving. 7200 miles looked fantastic.
Thicker oil is better if you push the car or run in hotter climates. Its just hard for you donkeys to understand.
Everyone should send samples off to Blackstone and make a choice based on hard data. It's so easy, but here we are discussing oils over and over..
@@mxthor3im picking up my 540 soon and I plan on sending blackstone test every oil change 😂 I might be doing too much but 30 extra dollars for safety sounds ok to me
Finally! Exactly my view on the topic. I have been somewhat critical about some of your videos kern417, but this one is 100%! BMW have been putting 0W30 in my car since new and I continued with the same, exactly due to the considerations mentioned in your video. The only thing I would add (which you have discussed in other videos) is that the B58 is a modern engine designed for W30 and even W20! Just because people are used to W40 on older vehicles does not make W30 "too thin" (I am also continuing to use 0W40 in my older generation Audi and that's optimal for it!)! In addition, tuning has very little to do with it all, unless it involved substantial engine hardware changes.
Well - your power ie 30vs40 and fuel economy isn't your concern while on the track. The beating and turbo protection is. High temp operation lowers viscosity to below the high spec so 30 isn't 30 on track. After running the track change your oil. Good Luck.....
Clearly there is a ton of people running all variating weights between 0-20 and 5-40, in different climates. I have yet to see anybody having issues using any specific weight. I live in ny (5*-100*F) and have been using LM 5w40 for the last 50k miles year round in my gen 1 and when I had my valve cover off recently the engine looked perfect. As long as you’re getting the correct specifications I don’t think it’s as big of a deal as people make it seem. One guy swears on one weight, another swears by something else. I do think I will run 0w30 in the winter from now on just for the sake of getting the oil up to operating temp on my short trips to work and such. Unfortunately I just did another change with 5w40 100mi ago and usually do a change every 3-3500mi max so maybe that has something to do with it. Just my experience, good video and info as always though.👍🏻
The 0 weight BMW specifies has less to do with climate and more to do with tolerances and very narrow oil passages. You may not be having issues now but those cold starts will start catching up.
@@AMExileEngineer here - this is total nonsense. The winter SAE J300 rating of an oil has nothing to do with “tolerances” or narrow passages. The winter rating is assigned by the lowest temperature at which the oil is pumpable on a cold cranking simulator. A 0W oil is pumpable at -35C, 5W -30C, 10W -25C. It says nothing about viscosity, in fact. Mobil 1 0W-40 is thicker in cold temps than every 5W-20 in existence except as you near -30 when the 5W forms crystals and gels because of the quality of the base oil. A 0W-20, 5W-20, or even 10W-20 is typically 20-40 cSt thinner than a 0W-40 at 40 C also despite being 0W. So you see, the winter rating has only a loose association with the viscosity of the oil. Second, it’s clearances not tolerances and this too narrow BS is urban legend. A 0W-20 at 100 F is thicker than a 10W-60 at operating temperature. If engines were this tight they would be blowing up in Canada daily. Kinematic viscosity is a rising exponential function with decreasing temperature.
@@chrisbradley3224 - A civil engineer over here.
In Belgium we use Shell Helix Ultra 0w30 year round.
The temperature can go from -10 Celcius to 35 Celcius during summer.
The 0w30 is what the dealers use btw.
We very rarely change our oil at home.
My car is X5 F15 3.0 diesel, 85 000 km, the service is every +- 18 000 km.
Ok. Manufacturers want the engine to run perfectly in warranty AND have the best possible emissions/ fuel consumption. Having a b engine that's pushed hardware and software wise with a low HTHS oil will eat away at the lds coat on the bores and the cams :) Changing it more often and looking at formulations to avoid LSPI, ring land deposits and an hths around 3.7 3.9 would be damn great.
i mean I have videos showing my cylinder head internals on the channel when i swapped cams last fall. it looks perfect and shiny so no worries there.
Another tired topic…I just use the OW-30 BMW OEM oil on my 700 hp gen 2…drives perfect. The key is to do oil changes more often than what BMW instructs
Which brand of 0w-30 are you using, the same one he recommended in the video?
@@Eddy-09 BMW 0W30 TwinPower Turbo LL-01FE Engine Oil
What about what the upgraded turbos recommend? They usually always recommend higher viscosity to protect the turbos . If people are really concerned about their oil send it in for oil analysis every oil change and see which brand works best .
The oil clearance and operating temperature determines the minimum oil viscosity to use. These cars are using much tighter clearances and the upside is that tighter clearances give a wider oil wedge to distribute the loads. The challenge is having a straight crank and good oil temp management. Also, if power is increased the oil thickness needs to follow. So a 0w30 at stock power levels and RPM will not suffice with an increase in HP and avg temps.
F1 cars run 10w60 oil and operate at 280C and higher. They have tight clearances and somewhat a high HP output. The oil has to be preheated though, being that thick and with tolerances so tight.
The HTHS rating is one of the most critical to watch when selecting an oil. I'd need a rating of at least 3.7 for modified turbo engine to be comfortable.
So 0w30 might work at stock levels and short OCI, but as you add power you better beef up that oil wedge!
I'd rather run 0w40 and get away with it than run 0W30 and worry between oil changes!
Can you cite clearances that you are referring to. Because best I know, they have remained largely the same for the past couple of decades. People interchange tolerances with clearances, but they are not the same. Individual parts tolerances are smaller, still those parts are then paired and assembled to achieve the same clearances.
@@mrtopcat2 Which engine?
@@mrtopcat2 No, they have not remained the same. The clearances are tighter because that allows them to use a thinner oil and achieve more fuel economy. Tolerances are even tighter. For example there is machine tolerance of the part and bearing/journal tolerance in the clearance. For example you may see a 1.0 thou clearance with a +/- 0.3 tho tolerance.
Honda K20A for example required 5W40 oil, but the newer K20C for example uses 0w20 oil...
Do you think those engines are running the same clearances?
nope. K20C is 0.78 thou to 1.5 thou
K20A (old) is 1.3 to 2.4 thou.
Hence the K20C uses 0w20 oil..
@@automotivelove The conclusion that tighter tolerances will result in tighter clearances is much repeated and echoed everywhere. Regardless it remains a fallacy. Parts are still paired to achieve largely the same clearances as before. Although there are instances of higher clearances used for specific applications, generally clearances have remained the same. You can check any older engine's repair manual and compare with newer engines. It is the same values.
@@automotivelove You are mixing up parts manufacturing tolerances with clearance ranges (which you are apparently assuming to be the tolerances, they are NOT). Tighter parts tolerances means there are simply less parts groups to pair and assembly is simpler. Thinner oils are ONLY about fuel economy and NOT following your assumption to match supposedly tighter clearances. Forget all that! It is wrong regardless how many times it will be echoed and repeated. By the way, if your assumptions were correct, then modern engines would be harmed by thicker oils - but they are NOT. Just like they are not harmed by being used in colder temperatures, during warmup, where oils are even thicker.
I never switched, 0w30 oem bmw oil! The best for b58 stock turbo
If you are buying BMW branded oil, you need a cat scan. Its just rebranded std spec stuff from whoever was the cheapest to pitch for it that year.
They're better oils out there than the BMW oil per Bitog site used oil analysis..
That's not how it works. Shell has been the exclusive BMW oil manufacturer for years. And yes - it is a rebranded Shell oil developed specifically to BMW's specs. So what's your point? Not buy it just because it is rebranded, although it is exactly what it needs to be?
@@Y.D.43210Nice way to be wrong.
It depends on where and when. In the US it used to be Castrol, it was the Castrol Edge product. In other parts of the world, its other manufacturers.
Its a cheque book buy, not based on pure engineering. Any decent oil will do exactly the same job. Changing it frequently is far more important than which one.
Thus, buying rebadged BMW super special, is 263 times better magic oil.....is a waste of money.
0w-40 Mannol Synthetic L-04 works well all year round in UK climate on the BMW M47R Diesel used in my Rover. Week in week out returns in mixed light urban use. 50 MPG in UK Imperial Gallons which is 42 MPG in US Gallons
About 4 MPG heavier in winter.
Liqui molly recommends I use 5w 30 top tec 4200 now my b58 has reached 100k miles
Great info! Most insightful video on oil!
Definitely agree, I'm running the BMW 0W30 LL04 (EU Spec). Great oil on paper at least.
The The BMW 0W30 Twin Turbo oil? I am using the same. It is a Shell oil though, so next time likely to buy directly the Shell product, depending on price ;)
I used to swear by liqui moly on my FBO N54, but I switched to Motul after talking to a couple people in the know.
Which one? I’m using X-cess Gen2 and can’t fault it
LM 5w-40 on my fbo N54 no issues. Coming on to 200k with original rod bearings.
I have a 2023 MKV Supra 6MT with 4,800 miles getting ready for it's 2nd oil change. My first oil change at 1,100 miles was with Amsoil. How would you guys compare Liqui Moly or Motul versus Amsoil?
i used to use liqui moly 5w 40 as well but switched to motul xcess gen 2. super good stuff ran it for years in all my motocross bikes
uszlachetniacze.blogspot.com/2018/10/piotr-tester-zestawienie-wszystkie.html?m=1
This is how I formulated my decision, X-Cess Gen 2 sits in that sweet spot between good cold protection and hot protection when comparing to LM equivalents.
You can see that Group 5 ester oils have the best protection but would need more frequent changes, all depends one the use.
Try to find the green bottle of liqui moly 0w-30 it does some crazy things for increasing gas mileage, I was already getting 32 mpg when I’m just cruising at 60-70 on the highway. But the green bottle took me to 34-35 mpg. Wild.
Molygen is the name of the green bottle.
i may try it in the future. this is the 4th oil i've tried so far
Can’t find a 0w30 Molygen anywhere, only 0w20 or 5w30
Who the fuck buys a 40i for fuel economy 😂😂😂
man this really triggered you
Bro can you do a video on the new b58 electric vanos system. Seems very interesting in how it works and how to do the valve timing. Great content as always
i'll add it to the list
Cool info , and break down helped alot in florida so cold start not a issue lols
I switch from long life 04 5w30 to long life 12fe liqui moly 0w30 for my little 3cy B38 and my engine works way smoother especially on cold star and start and stop fuction
I’m using 5W-40 on my pure 800 m240
Ok. But why?
@@Y.D.43210because its 800hp you thick fück.
So I actually talked to some reputable Euro shop owners down here in South Florida when I bought my 340 because the dealership had put 5-20 in my car and I did my next oil change to 0w-20 and they said Do not do that because you will seize your motor. Never go lower in viscosity ever, for these BMW's just keep it at 5-30 if youre going for more power and call it a day, but never go lower in viscosity after going up. Just what I was told though, not sure of the science or validity behind it.
Doesn't matter
Heard@@kern417
If I live in South Florida what oil should I be running since its hot as hell 9/12 months?@@kern417
Not true at all
True 5w30 is the golden ratio!! Minimums 0w30
Tbh, I think the BMW oil cooling system is pretty stout. On the F87 N55 M2, it was pretty dumb good. Would basically always be between 100 and 120 Celsius, regardless of how driven. Only if pushed EXTREMELY hard on track with repeated heavy and prolonged accelerations, it would begin to heat soak and also the oil temps would rise to 125 Celsius, but that's not so bad and impressive for a totally stock car (no tune, downpipe, nothing). Ambient air temps definitely affect operating oil temps, especially when driven hard on track. For the N55, 0W30, 5W30, and 5W40 are the recommended oils. They're all fine, but 5W40 is definitely preferred if you are a highly competent driver (top group) on track. As an aside, manufacturers are willing to sacrifice longterm reliability/protection for 2-4% improvement in efficiency. I think Toyota even has a 0W8 oil. Ultimately main and rod bearing clearances are what should dictate oil viscosity, NOT fuel economy. When in doubt, I'd er to the highest recommended oil grade in moderate/hot climates and the lowest grade in cold/winter climates.
In regards to 15:58 I hear that beating the engine up from the get go (6port b58) seats the rings better and prevents this issue… spooky stuff if you ask me but if it’s proven I would do it.
Kern affirming my bias towards 0w30 even tho it doesn’t really matter that much>>>
Weight doesn't matter that much. But hths does matter. And liquimoly is lacking.
@@carlsagan3065 amsoil ss masterrace
11 mins in still waffling on
Alright so I am at 155.5k miles. Stock. I do uber in a 440i GC xdrive. I haven't ever played around with wieghts of oil. I DO MY OWN OIL CHANGES AT 10K MILES. The most I've ever had to push the change was at 12k once. My car stays on 12 to 14 hours a day. I use 0w20 molygen. Color of the oil is always dark brown and clear. I have to inspect as best as i can. Max gas mileage I get of one tank is 460 miles. I'm usually at 375 to 400 depending on how I just drove before getting to the gas station. Lol I'm doing to play around and change to this and report results. If I get better gas mileage or feel that the engine is happier will report back asap
Any major issues you’ve ran into with that 155k miles?
I run 0w10. Bmw wants me to run water based oil ,so I'm doing it ,saving the dolphins and the trees
If it works, it works 😎
Thank you Kern
I would also use 0W30 - based on my feeling.
BUT I believe almost nobody can evaluate or estimate which is the best oil viscosity for these B58, there are no measurements or facts available to use for such evaluation.
It’s all pure feeling
Sounds like you didn't watch the video.
It’s all about 5w-30
0w30 on OE BMW oil had 2 options now, both of them FE12- one is normal bmw 0w30 and the other one is bmw 0w30M , is the M version better tho ?
Hello, thank you for the informative video. But there is one thing I don't understand. Why not use 0-40 instead of 0-30? 0-40 has same cold temp protection as 0-30 but has better high temp protection..
10:38
@@kern41710:38 You compare 0-20 to 0-30 here, and say 0-30 is better. Okay, but why don't you consider 0-40 instead of 0-30? 0-40 should be superior to 0-30 in terms of hot viscosity while both having the same cold viscocity.
@ keep watching 11:14
@@kern417 I got it, 0-30 will provide less friction in the engine than 0-40, because it is thiner at operating temp, hence more efficent.
@ Plus the fact that the B58 has been engineered with W30 and even W20 in mind... It CAN handle W40, but it does not NEED W40. Hence why W30 is the golden middle between W20 (focus on fuel efficiency) and W40 (overkill for a modern engine + reduced efficiency). If you do not have cold winters where you are, I would consider 5W30 as potentially the best viscosity choice for B58. But I occasionally do. Plus all the other considerations kern417 mentioned, incl short distance trips. Been using 0W30 from the first oil change.
I feel seen. Mostly very short trips and I know it’s bad. Couple times a week I go for extended drives. You think 0W is better than 5W for me because of this? I park in a heated garage, so no real cold starts.
absolutely.
Great video. Thanks
Ravenol REP/RUP/RCS OR red line 5w40 euro series/ 5w40 high performance. Motul/moly its gurbage oil. No ester no PAO .
This is good oil for Gen 2 B58TU (M340i) as well right? Sorry, my car didn’t come with an owners manual when I bought it..
If you’re running E85 you are shearing the oil down to a lower viscosity much more quickly from a 30 viscosity when operating at all temperatures … again just another thing to take into account and should definitely lower your oil change intervals
not so much shear but dilution. the e85 mixes with the oil (just like gas does).
Awesome video man. What’s that exhaust setup on the “6spd b58” plated car sounds amazing
The engine oil temperature is an overall indicator of oil temp and not the oil temp under heavy load at specific areas of the engine such as turbos and pistons. Your oil temperature could be normal after it gets cooled and reaches the oil temp sensor, but under heavy load, it could have reached significantly higher temperatures near the pistons and turbos. Thats why people use a heavier oil to protect the hottest areas of the engine under heavy load.
Is my understanding correct?
They’ve got hths to measure what happens in areas of oil at 150c
Oh man let the oil boys fight
yesss
Here in EU I wanna run Top Tec 6100 0W-30 which is LL-12 FE spec for B58TU with OPF.
hey kern! I've been running 5w-40 down here in AZ for the last 3 years. would you recommend 5w-30?
Thank you sir.
The two different measurement standards always confused me. It never made sense to me to be more viscous when hot. Then i found it was measured differently but didnt know exactly how.
hope this helps clarify things
@@kern417 Do you know what the same technique isn't used for both?
i think each test is developed to better represent the highest risk scenarios for each condition. SAE always updates things periodically, so technically it could change in the future too.
lol why did my shop tell me to switch from ow-30 to 5w-40? it is a hot summer I guess here in cali
0:01 when I have to sneeze but it ain’t coming out lmao
I have a 2924 with a b48 2.0. I daily drive it, no track, but I drive very spirited. I need the absolute best oil for street / performance. My change intervals are 3 to 4 thousand miles max, also I livevin a hot climate miami Florida. Any recommendations?
5w30 millers oil that's what we use in uk for b58
I’m in the UK and I don’t use that
Excuse me but your engine is now in danger.
You need at least 3.5 CST for HTHS for the torque and power you get from the B58.
Factory specs for FE, cold starts up and emissions regulations is what are for, but you don't have protection at high temps and top performance unless you make a short oil service or don't floor it.
Good thing is you have a high TBN that compensates the ultra low viscosity.
Including it's a turbocharged GDI engine although it has as well port injection.
BimmerN53
6:39 no need to overpay twice for oil with bmw logo. LL spec means means literally nothing in USA, its only for clueless green freaks in EU. Also taking oil rated 30 instead of 40 is a mistake: 40 graded oil has better oil film handle capability. Not to say about 20: this is not naturally aspirated japan junk engine, it requires good oil film to remain in crank shaft bearings while engine is off.
8500 miles oil change Intervall.
In Europe it’s ca 30.000km
Why such short Intervall in the US ?
like i said in the video it adjust based on driving style. i drive my car harder than BMW anticipated, so the timer drops lower than the baseline recommendation.
@@kern417what is the maximum mileage the CBS allows you in the US when you really drive slowly ?
typically should be 10k miles
@@vollcare3594if you change your oil at 30000KM you need a cat scan of your head.
What is that terrible noise at the end? Is.. that.. beatboxing?
My B58 TU (2023 M240i) requires LL-12 FE or LL-17 FE+. Would I be safe using the recommeneded LiquiMoly 0w30 if it does not meet those exact certifications?
I think it does but I'd double check to be sure. There should be other options too
@@kern417 thanks man. Only their 0w20 fits the specs, which I am currently using. Guess I'll have to shop around if I want to switch to 0w30.
Is this a dangerous thing to do? 🤔
I literally just bought liqui moly 5w30 yesterday ahaha
I would have gone 0w30 but only 5w30 was available on FCP. But Im in the south so it never gets colder than 30.
Like i said 0w30 is available they just don't list it under our cars for some reason.
5w-40 for very hot climates ie: SWFL
Or just be intelligent and get 0w40.
Kern I live in Jamaica and the temperature ranges between 16°C- 37°C (60°F - 97°F), which oil is best for my N55, 5W40?
Yes
I believe that's what most N55 run. That's what I run in my N52 X5.
I have a 330i and have been using 0w 20 because I thought that’s all I could use. Which oil would you recommend? It’s a b48 with 60k miles. I live in phx az so it gets hot
How often do you change oil? New 340i owner just tuned to stage 2
Would you recomend the same change in the m235i?
2022 m240 xdrive oil capacity??????????? 6.5 liters or 7.2liters?
Forums, owners manual and I called 2 different dealerships one said 6.5 liters and the other said 7.2. I can’t get a solid answer.
No one answered to my question so I when to 3 dealerships got the service department and parts department to print out the technical specs of my car with my vin with the oil capacity. It is 7.2 liters because it is xdrive if it was rwd it would be 6.5
have you noticed any drop in mpg in your 340i? Had my 440i going on 6 years, motorway cruising at 80 ish would get me over 40mpg regulary. Now i'll get 36 at the most. Thought it was the oil and changed from 0w to 5w and back to 0w. Made no difference. Can we expect these B58's to get less economical over time?
I would likely blame the fuel quality, even if you get it at the same place every time, the quality can change if they start getting their gas from a different supplier. I live in MD and on longer trips I will usually get around 31-33mpg in my 240i, last month I was in VA for a few days and after filling up down there, I was getting 35-36mpg driving back.
yep. My MPG has dropped significantly, i'm going to do spark plugs again soon as well as both vanos solenoids and see if that resolves it
I’m surprised you get over 40 on motorway cruising. I get 35~ if I’m lucky on my 440i. Regular city/mix driving 20mpg. Spirited driving ~18mpg.
i notice it going to e85. but for oil i haven't done calculations to notice. i used to do the calculations religiously but i stopped.
I use 5w30 liqui molly 4200 ll04 thats compatible right?
Did i used wrong oil all time??
like i showed i have 5w30 and it was fine but i prefer 0w
@@kern417yeah but its ll04
there is a 5W30 that meets the LL01FE requirement, so if you want to run 5w30 then i recommend using that one.
@@kern417 but whats weird I tried to look for 0w30 ll01 i cannot find in europe I typed the same oil as you have they dont sell here… I will ask bmw .. i also thought about going 0w30 as this winter just like you said car took forever to warm up,, i thought its because i removed flaps in the front grill , on g30 its opening closing in certain engine temp.. i thought it’s because off that but maybe the oil… I hope i didn’t caused damage using ll04
Now where I live, summer is 45C-55C what do I use for my m4? D:
I use a BMW LL04 instead of LL01 spec for my m240i from 2016 is this a problem? Or is LL04 also usable?
i recommend LL01FE but it does depend on the region. certain regions have different requirements because of emissions.
Just found your channel, love it!
Bought a 2021 M340i a week ago and looking at oil options
I live in Phoenix Arizona, doesn’t hit freezing temps here and hits 115 degF in the summer. Car is my daily and I drive 12 miles to work. Half in traffic. Car is 100% stock and I’m gonna keep it that way. What you recommend?
Was originally thinking 5w-30, instead of the 0w-30 because it doesn’t get to cold here.
0w30 still warms up faster. More time at operating temp = better for the car.
Yo kern, what do you have to say about cold start reduction? Is it bad for the b58 engine? I use it in the mornings to not disturb the neighbors
i whould say its the opposit
What do you think about AMS Oil?
I had a mechanic with 10 years experience swear by Amz Oil. Its all the same tbh
@@mikeoxlong6351 its amsoil you thick skull.
B48 stage 2 ecu stage 3 tcu, castrol edge 5w30 LL is what in using, want to try 5w30 M , thoughts,, 5000 miles oil and filter changes
Hello
where can i order this oil in europe? in my country cant find :(
Winnipeg guys like OK -29C
😳
Isn't changing oil every 3k miles more important?
Did you watch the video?
don’t know if i missed it in the video but what’s your normal operating oil temperature usually? just out of curiosity
around 210-220. drops in certain scenarios and is allowed to go up in others so it depends on how you're driving. the cooling system is very advanced.
What about 0w40?
Would you recommend doing this for me? Stock and doing uber??? 10k miles a month also in Texas and it just hot
yes and make sure you stay on top of changes with that kind of mileage.
What about mobile 1 FS 0w40?
is 0w-20 fine cali weathers ?
Should i use 0w-30 in my b48. From factory they use 0w-20. I live in Finland, temperature ranges from -35 to +35 Celsius.
both should work. but i prefer 0w30
@@kern417 thanks for the reply💪🏼
Try molygen
Would you recommend me switching from 5w40 to 0w30 on my ots e30 435i?
this is b58 specific. N55 has different requirements.
Whats your oil pressure difference?
it shouldn't change much. pressure depends on a lot of variables and is controlled by the DME.
the indy i go to uses 0w-20
i'm sure it works great for a lot of people
@@kern417 yeah and I'm stock for now and not pushing the car hard so I don't have any reason to ask for anything else
@@F5alconsHouse how do such unintelligent people afford B58 cars? You take your expensive BMW just to have Indy put their bullshit generic 0w20 in it 😂
it's amazing what comments you see under a video made by an engineer explaining how well 0w20 can work. but keep going.
What if i live in hot environment? I thought the upper temperature grade was in relation to the ambient temperature. I live in a hot area where ambient temperature can reach 38 °C, should i steel run 0w30?
5w30 or 5w40 in warmer climates. I’m in Florida so 5w30 is perfect down here. If I lived in my old state of Michigan I would run 0w30, based off the manual’s instructions.
What is hotter? Your 200F engine or your 100F Florida summer?
Your thermostat opens to keep the engine at a constant temp. Does your radiator work harder in summer? Sure. Does it affect your engine temps? Nope!
In a way a 0w40 oil seems like an ideal solution for someone who commutes in winter but sees high oil temps on track in summer. As you said, it might be better to upgrade your cooling if you see higher temps, but for occasional summer track use with a stock car 0w40 might be a good solution? I dont know if there are 0w40 oils with LL approval tho.
I've just never experienced temps that warrant the higher weight. I'd rather have the reduced rotational resistance
Mobil 1 FS 0w-40 is LL-01 and readily available at Walmart